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TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 


SOUTH  AND  CENTRAL  AMERICA. 

FIRST  series: 

fUt  in  l\t  'ghwas  at  ^n^uth. 


DON   RAMON   PAEZ. 


"nihil     a  r  d  u  r  m     m  o  r  t  a  t,  i  b  c  s  ." 


NEW  YORK: 
CHARLES  SCRTBNER  &  CO.,  654  BROADWAY. 

1868. 


••  Ob  t  U  t*  th«  laad  wber«  (>rlfflitr«t  hti«w 
OIIJ  •aii*e(  tklr*  mi<1  claw  la  nomlnB  d««r9 

«•;  'mul'. 

W  -    -      vlUB. 

ii                                r  lo  til*  bowMn  brti  ( : 
%V                              <•,  vttbln  thy  •aiin>  bovera, 
Ud  citivo  itvr»,  U>«  frulUfv  and  Ibc  flowr* ; 
WH»f»  l>«>«ri,  anp  ardoQl  M  Ibc  caa'*  llipy  fc*l, 
A  -  .                      ■    <•  pUm  Uial  o'er  Uirm  »tc«l  ; 
N\                                ^  e  M  claM,  M  •vert  will  twin*, 
,\  •  '  ■ '    

T:.  r.k,.- 

Uol>r««r'a  'CanttH.i 


Eai»r«^r,  «v<>>C'>'W.l^4rV^f  tSrigr^ ^  the^v*r  1868,  by 

nAJklON  PAKZ.* 

lb*  Clerk'*  (NBr«  of  lb*  l>Utr  et  (*oart  of  ibv  Tnltpd  Blate*  for 

Sontbrm  DlcUict  of  Now  York. 


MORRIS    KETCIIU3I,    ESQ, 


KIND    AND    CONSTANT    FKIEND 


EXILED    AUTHOR. 


^^HlUSo 


VI  I'UEFACK. 

On  my  return  Iiome,  I  immediately  turned  my  eteps 
toward 

*'  TlioM  mailed  wood* 

Wbrrc  croucbiitg  ligcm  wait  Uieir  ba|deM  prer," 

anxious  to  study  nature  in  her  own  t^anctuary  ;  but,  owing 
to  the  unfortunate  stale  of  aflairB  in  the  country,  I  did  not 
fiijoy  Ion-;  my  cherished  dreams  of  exploring  it  through  all  its 
t'xtt-nt.  Suflicient  information  was,  however,  obtained  in  my 
rambles  through  the  plains  to  enlarge  upon  a  subject  scarcely 
touched  upon  by  travellers. 

Thus  from  my  earliest  days  have  I  been  associated  with 
the  scenes  forming  the  text  of  the  present  narrative,  which 
I  venture  to  lay  before  the  public,  trusting  more  in  the  indul- 
gence and  characteristic  gencrosit}'  of  the  Anglo-Saxon  race 
loward  foreigners,  than  in  my  own  abil"'^  '■■  '^■■^•''  ''•• 
arduous   undertaking. 


CONTENTS, 


CBAP. 

PAOR 

Introduction, 

xi 

I.  The  Dkpakturk, 

. 

1 

II.    TlIK    MORROS, 

. 

16 

III.  TiiK  Llanos, 

.       26 

IV.  The  Llaneros, 

40 

V.    SCENKS    AT    THE    FISHERY, 

. 

.       57 

VI.  Wii.D  Horses, 

. 

li 

VII.  Across  the  Pampas, 

.       85 

VIII.    L\    PORTCGLESA, 

99 

IX.  The  Aplre  River, 

.      116 

X.    S.VV.VNSAS    OF    ApCRE, 

133 

XI.  El  Frio, 

.     148 

XII.  Birds  of  III  Omen  and  Carrion 

Hawks, 

163 

XIII.  The  Rodeo, 

.     175 

XIV.  Branding  Scenes,    . 

189 

XV.  Plants  and  Snakes,    . 

.       202 

XVI.  Tiger  Stories, 

222 

XVII.  Shooting  Adventures, 

.     238 

XVIII.  Mata  Totcmo, 

. 

250 

XIX.  Monkey  Notions, 

.     262 

XX.  Among  the  Crocodiles, 

2S1 

XXI.  The  ('imahuonkra, 

.     2!t4 

via  CONTENTS 

XXII.   Ixw  BoaAi.»>,  315 

XXIH.  Oi«   U^i.ii..                  ....  li'2'J 

XXIV.  S«-i.\tt  AT  Tilt  rAiw  or  ArikiTo,  862 

XXV.  Tii«  \Vo.\DKiui  or  THE   KivxR,  378 

XXVI    Tub  Lasv  or    El  Dorado,  S91 

XXVII.  Till  Oil  Wilui  or  Tiir   OwNot-o,  430 

XXVIII    HoMiwAWJ  lk)i>D,               ....  -148 

XilX    Calauuxo,          ......  iflO 


NOTE. 

The  favorable — I  may  say  flattering — notice  which  the  previous 
editions  of  the  ^^lld  fkencs  in  South  America  received  from  the  press 
of  this  country,  and  more  especially  from  that  of  (Jrcat  Britain,  has 
encouraged  the  Author  of  that  work  to  make  several  material  changes, 
not  only  in  the  text — whole  chapters  having  been  stricken  out  and 
their  place  supplied  by  new  matter — but  in  the  general  plan  of  the 
book,  with  the  object  of  presenting  it  to  the  young  American  reader — 
to  whom  this  edition  is  especially  devoted — in  a  form  which  will  con- 
vey a  more  comprehensive  view  of  the  wonders  of  a  region  scarcely 
known  here,  except  to  the  scientific  through  the  works  of  Baron  von 
Humboldt  and  other  European  travellers  who  have  visited  it  from  time 
to  time  in  the  pursuit  of  knowledge,  or  for  pleasure.  It  is  to  be  hoped, 
however,  that  with  the  increased  facilities  offered  by  the  various  lines 
of  steamships  now  plying  regularly  between  this  country  and  various 
points  in  South  America,  a  more  lively  interest  than  hitherto  has  been 
evinced  here,  will  be  aroused  among  the  citizens  of  the  Great  Republic 
towards  countries  which,  by  their  geographical  position  and  other 
natural  advantages,  are  destined  to  become  the  emporiums  of  a  vast 
trade  with  the  United  States  of  Noith  America, 


INTRODUCTION 


'•  Know'st  thou  the  laud  where  tho  citron  grows, 
"Where  midst  its  dark  foliage  tho  golden  or.ingo  glows  i 
Thitiier,  thither  lut  us  go." 

GOKTUE. 

To  YoLXG  Amkrica: 

"  Smart,"  as  the  world  over,  you  are  acknowledged  to 
be — in  which  opinion  I  most  heartily  concur,  having  myself 
spent  among  you  the  best  part  of  my  life — permit  me  to  call 
your  attention  to  one  important  fjict  which  has  escaped  your 
notice  thus  far,  or  rather  that  of  your  teachers,  namely,  a  bet- 
ter acquaintance  with  that  vast  and  glorious  portion  of  our 
great  continent  lying  at  your  very  portals,  Soutli  America — 
a  region  of  which  you  have  only  a  faint  idea  from  the  meagre 
information  supplied  by  your  School  Geograpliics  and  occa- 
sional newspaper  correspondents,  but  in  fact  a  land  of  won- 
drous exuberance  and  untold  natural  wealth,  which  offers  you 
a  field  of  enterprise  worthy  of  the  foimders  of  the  States  of 
California  and  Oregon,  and  the  Territories  of  Montana,  Ari- 
zona, and  Colorado. 

It  is  a  fact  that  while  Europe,  situated  as  it  is  flir  beyond 
our  own  hemisphere,  has  always  sent  her  very  best  men  to 
represent  lier  in  the  South  American  States,  and  to  explore 


X  INTRODUCTION. 

and  r<-port  iij>on  every  thing  worth  knowing,  tins  coumry, 
America  par  excelUncf,  \ias  sent  none  as  yet  but  broken  down 
and  quarrelsome  politicians,  who,  according  to  the  statements 
of  some  of  the  leading  periodical  of  this  country,*  arc  abso- 
lutely incompetent  to  fill  their  post  with  credit  to  the  nation 
Uiey  represent.  To  my  own  pe.'^onal  knowledge  I  can  testify 
as  to  the  class  of  men  sent  afloat  to  Venezuela,  one  of  whom 
had  previously  been  master  of  a  tug-boat  on  the  Orinoco  and 
Apure  river?,  but  through  political  influence  at  home  was 
suddenly  enabled  to  emerge  from  that  obscure  though  honor- 
able calling  to  that  of  a  diplomatic  functionary,  although  it  is 
but  fair  to  state  tlial  his  social  status  in  that  country  was  in 
no  wise  improved  by  his  change  of  vocation.  When  his  term 
of  (»flrjce  expired,  with  the  change  of  administration  at  head- 
quarters, he  was  duly  replaced  by  auotbcr,  whose  conduct  was 
so  disgraceful  t  that  his  countrymen  resident  in  the  Rejtublic 
petitioned  the  Government  at  home  to  remove  him  forthwith, 
whicli  was  grunted,  but  only  to  replace  liira  by  another — since 
deceased — who,  I  nm  informed,  was  the  only  dniuken  man  seen 
in  tlio  streets  of  the  capital. 

Tlianks  to  the  unaided  efforts  of  a  missionary  gentleman, 
Rrv.  Mr.  Fletcher,!  the  magnificent  empire  of  Brazil  has  lately 
been  brought  to  the  notice  of  the  people  of  the  United  States, 
who,  quick  to  appreciate  the  commercial  advantages  oflered 
by  a  foreign  country,  when  fully  demonstrated  to  them,  have 
already  established  a  line  f>f  sti-aniors  between  New  York  and 

•   I'iJe  X.  w  York  "  Hcral  I."  of  July  17th  and  Aug.  6lh,  1867. 
f    Vide  New  York  "  Worid,"  of  Aug.  5th,  1866. 
X  Author  of  "  Bnuul  and  the  Braxillaiiit." 


INTRODUCTION.  XI 

the  principal  ports  of  the  Empire.  Outside  of  this  tlie  people 
of  this  enterprising  country  have  only  had  occasional  glimpses 
of  the  vast  continent  of  South  America,  from  the  notes  of 
casual  travellers  and  the  official  reports  of  Licuts.  Page, 
Herndon,  and  Gibbon,  of  the  navy,  who  confined  their  ob- 
servations principally  to  the  practicability  of  navigating  the 
two  great  rivers  Amazon  and  La  Plata,  already  surveyed  by 
their  respective  governments  and  explored  from  end  to  end 
by  several  European  travellers.  It  is  to  be  hoped,  however, 
that  the  eminent  naturalist,  Agassiz,  who  lately  visited  tJie 
former  river  with  reference  to  a  particular  branch  of  science, 
will  give  us  the  result  of  his  explorations  as  clearly,  and  re- 
lieved of  the  technicalities  of  scientific  lore  so  common  among 
naturalists,  as  the  distinguished  artist  Church,  who  several 
years  ago  penetrated,  "on  his  own  hook,"  to  the  heart  of  the 
Andes,  has  presented  the  grand  and  beautiful  ridge  on  canvass 
to  the  eyes  of  admiring  thousands  who  have  gazed  upon  his 
admirable  paintings,  thus  familiarising  the  outside  world  with 
that  picturesque  region,  and  earning  for  himself  a  name  second 
to  none  in  the  estimation  of  the  artistic  world. 

North  Americans  cannot  longer  ignore  that  great  section 
of  our  continent  which,  during  thirteen  years,  warred  to  the 
knife  against  her  powerful  antagonists,  Spain  and  Portugal, 
for  the  possession  of  those  political  principles  proclaimed 
years  before  by  their  own  Great  Republic ;  for  it  is  a  fact, 
that  while  most  of  the  European  nations  hastened  to  acknowl- 
edge the  independence  of  the  South  American  States,  the 
United  States  of  America  were  the  last  to  recognize  them ; 
and  if  we  of  the  South  have  not  been  as  successful  in  the 


xn  iMiioia  cTio.N. 

establiuhmcnt  ot  it<publjcan  Institulious  as  our  brethren  of 
tlie  North,  the  fault  h  not  ours,  but  is  to  be  attributed  to  the 
"peculiar  inslitulionj* "  implanted  on  our  soil  by  its  fanatical 
and  reuiorrielcss  conquerors,  .«<•  utti-rlv  iniinir.il  to  .iili"],''  n.-'l 
educational  development .• 

And  now  look,  on  the  other  liaml,  t<>  th.-  lic-t  ..!  (ii>tiii. 
guished  names  that  figure  among  the  European  representa- 
tives and  explorers  in  the  various  sections  of  South  America, 
and  the  advantages  gained  by  tho  countries  they  represent. 
At  the  head  of  all  stands  the  illustrious  Humboldt,  who  was 
the  first  to  penetrate  that  comparatively  unknown  region  at 
the  time  (1799),  and  to  lay  open  her  wondrous  treasures  be- 
fore the  civilized  world.  Any  eulogistic  comments  upon  this 
truly  great  man  are  superfluous :  the  world  is  filled  with  ins 
fame,  a;  radiant  as  the  celestial  spheres  above,  which  he 
overran  likewise  w^ith  his  penetrating  mind,  and  after  devot- 
ing nearly  tlirce  quarters  of  a  century  to  the  study  of  the 
Universe,  he  died  only  a  few  years  ago  at  the  advanced  age 
of  ninety-two,  in  the  full  enjoyment  of  his  mental  faculties. 
Ilis  works  are  the  grandest  monument  of  the  nineteenth 
century. 

To  Pnissia  we  are  indebted  for  the  services  of  another 
resolute  explorer.  Prince  Adalbert,  who  fearlessly  penetrated 
to  the  remotest  parts  of  Brazil,  and  the  botanists,  von  Tschndi, 
Karztcn,    and    Moritz,   who    have    enriched    the    European 

*  "Fuch  i»  the  statu  to  w)iich  colonial  politics  .ind  mal  ndmtiiistnition 
bare  dur'.nf;  three  centuries  reduced  n  country  which,  for  natural  wcath, 
Qu;  Tic  with  all  that  is  most  wonderful  on  c.irth." 

IlrMnoi.nT,  Tvn\rh.  vol.  iii.,  e.  27. 


INTRODUCTION.  XIU 

mus2ums  and  conservatories  willi  the  treasures  of  our  Flora. 
Other  parts  of  Germany  have  sent  no  less  distinguished  in- 
dividuals in  the  persons  of  Prince  Maximilian  of  Bavaria, 
and  the  great  naturalists,  Nartercr,  Spix,  and  von  Martins, 
all  of  whom  have  given  to  the  scientific  world  the  result 
of  their  explorations  in  works  of  enduring  fonie.  Franco 
ranks  next  in  distinguished  names,  such  as  La  Condamine, 
D'Or\ngni,  Jussieu,  St.  Hilaire,  Bonpland  (the  companion  of 
Humboldt),  Depons,  Lavayesse,  "Webber,  Liai.«,  etc. ;  and 
Great  Britain,  with  her  Parishes  and  Fitzroys,  who  surveyed 
and  carefully  sounded  every  estuary,  bay,  and  inlet  which  lie 
between  the  Plata  and  the  Bay  of  Valparaiso,  with  the  cele- 
brated naturalist,  Darwin,  as  co-laborer ;  Sir  Robert  Schum- 
bourgh,  the  discoverer  of  that  vegetable  wonder,  the  Victoria 
Regia,  and  the  hitherto  unknown  sources  of  the  great  river 
Orinoco,  the  lake  of  Parirae,  supposed  in  the  seventeenth  cen- 
tury to  be  the  abode  of  a  mighty  and  resplendent  Indian  king 
— El  Dorado — the  gilded,  from  whom  that  veritable  land  of 
gold,  as  it  has  subsequently  been  demonstrated,  took  the 
name* — with  other  equally  enterprising  naturalists  and  ex- 
plorers, such  as  Waterton,  Wallace,  Bates,  Vigne,  Markham, 
and  Spruce.  Through  the  efforts  of  the  two  last  named, 
England  has  succeeded  in  transplanting  and  successfully  culti- 

•  The  late  discoveries  made  in  Venezuelian  Guiana  prove  that  tho 
statements  of  Sir  Walter  Raleigh  and  other  adventurers  of  his  linio 
were  not  without  foundation,  as  gold  of  the  finest  quality  and  in  tho 
greatest  abundance,  is  now  gathered  over  an  extent  of  territory  sur- 
passing in  richness  and  natural  resources  the  famous  California  and 
Australia  placcr». 


JNTKOULCTION. 


vuting  in  tliu  mountains  of  India  the  various  «pecies  of 
iicliona  trees  indigenous  to  the  Andean  range  of  nioun> 
tiiin?,  that  yit-ld  that  invaluable  drug,  quinine ;  while  another 
enterprising  Knglishman  undertook  to  stock  Australia  with 
the  Alpaca  sheep  of  the  same  region,  at  the  risk  of  his  life 
and  fortune. 

Thus  England,  France,  and  Gt-rinany  have  secured  the 
monopoly  of  the  South  American  trade,  wiili  total  exchision 
of  this  country,  which  has  to  pay  cash  for  what  the  former 
obtain  in  exchange  for  the  produce  of  their  manufactories. 
All  these  nations,  moreover,  appoint  permanent  representa- 
tives, chosen  from  among  their  ablest  diplomats,  and  keep 
them  there  as  long  as  they  choose  to  remain,  to  enable  them 
to  become  thoroughly  acquainted  with  the  people  and  the  pe- 
culiarities of  the  country,  endearing  themselves  to  the  inhab- 
itants by  their  munificent  hospitality  and  courtly  demeanor, 
liven  distant  and  .snow-bound  Russia  has  sent  to  South 
America  her  commissions  of  savants,  and  maintains  there,  as 
well  a-s  Sweden,  competent  representatives,  whose  duty  it  is 
to  report  to  their  respective  governments  on  the  progress  of 
affairs  and  the  resources  of  those  countries. 

I  shall  not  close  the  list  of  European  travellers  and  natu- 
ralists, with  whom  I  am  acquainted,  without  adding  those  of 
Holland  an<l  Belgium,  viz.,  Mr.  Langsberg,  for  many  years 
Minister  Plonipotentiary  from  the  former  country  to  Ven- 
ezuela, Baron  Ponthos,  and  Messrs.  Linden  and  Funk, 
who,  by  their  united  efforts,  have  contributed  to  enlighten 
their  countrymen  respecting  the  source  from  whence  Indi.n- 
rubber  emanates,  and  the  kind  of  trees  that  yield   the  val- 


INTRODUCTION.  XV 

uable  Callsaya  and  Angostura  barks;  what  plants  yield  the 
fragrant  Vanilla  and  Tonka  beans,  the  healing  balsams  of 
Copaiva,  Tolu,  and  Peru ;  and  how  indigo,  cacao,  and  coffee 
are  raised.  "  Does  cotton  grow  in  Venezuela  ?  "  "  Are  there 
any  railroads  in  Chile  ?  "  are  questions  which  have  respec- 
tively been  addressed  to  me  and  to  the  accredited  Minister  of 
the  latter  flourishing  republic  to  the  United  States  by  persons 
enjoying  the  greatest  advantages  of  education  in  this  covmtry. 
Now,  it  is  a  well-known  fact  to  European  merchants  that  the 
cotton  raised  in  Venezuela  ranks  among  the  finest  in  the 
world  ;  and  as  regards  railroads,  Chile  possesses  some  of  the 
most  admirable  works  of  the  kind,  due  to  the  skill  of  North 
American  engineers. 

But  no  wonder  that  so  little  is  known  here  about  South 
America,  when  one  of  the  standard  School  Geographies  and 
most  recent  publications  describes  the  products  of  Venezuela 
in  these  few  lines  : 

"  Its  principal  products  are  the  woods  and  fruits  of  the 
forest  and  the  cattle  of  the  plains." 

"Exports. — The  principal  exports  are  the  tropical  fruits, 
which  grow  without  cultivation ;  and  hides,  cattle,  horses,  and 
mules." 

Any  one  would  be  led  to  suppose,  from  the  perusal  of 

the  above  quotations,  that  the  country  at  large  is  "  in  a  state 

of  nature,"  and  that  the  inhabitants  themselves  are  no  better 

off  than  "  the  cattle  of  the  plains," 

"  Where  at  each  step  the.  stranger  fear.^  to  wake 
Tie  rattling  terrors  of  the  vengeful  snake; 
Where  crouching  tigers  wait  their  h.iplcsa  prer, 
Ami  savage  men  more  murderous  Btill  than  they." 

—Tfie  DeKn:'e<l  Village. 


XVI  JXTRODl'CTIOy. 

Tlicse  tilings  arc  only  fuuml  in  the  depths  of  the  primeva. 
forest,  or  amidst  the  hibyriuths  of  rivers  that  traver-;c  the  vast 
extent  of  prairie  land  or  Uanos  wliich  form  the  subject  of  this 
book.  These  arc  the  grazing  grounds  as  well  as  military 
school  of  the  republic:  tiic  agricultural  portion  lies  north  of 
this  region,  amidst  tlic  great  chain  of  mountains,  whith,  de- 
taching itself  from  the  main  Andean  trunk  in  New  Granada, 
or  Colombia,  as  it  is  now  called,  runs  eastward  along  the 
shores  of  the  Caribbean  Sea.  The  products  of  this  ri'gion 
consist  principally,  as  the  school-book  quoted  above  states,  in 
the  tropical  fruit?,  not  collected  at  random,  as  might  be  in- 
ferred from  the  above  meager  statement,  but  through  tlie  most 
careful  cultivation,  as  a  conlemporar)-  English  traveller  in  that 
country  rightly  describes  it  in  a  few  lines. 

"July  llth. — Having  got  our  passports,  we  started  at 
about  3  P.  M.  for  San  Pedro,  distant  about  six  leagues.  The 
first  three  leagues  lay  through  the  beautiful  valley  of  Chacao 
(Caracas).  Everything  bore  the  appearance  of  great  pros- 
perity. The  road  was  as  good  as  any  in  Europe.  The  hedges 
were  beautifully  clipped ;  hardly  a  foot  of  ground  could  be 
seen  that  was  not  in  a  high  state  of  cultivation.  The  planta- 
tions were  numerous  and  in  good  order,  and  the  long  chimneys 
and  black  smoke  showed  that  even  in  this  remote  valley  steam 
was  rendering  its  thousand-handed  assistance.  "We  crossed 
and  recrosscd  the  Rio  Guaire  several  times  before  we  ar- 
rived at  Antimano,  some  two  leagues  distant  from  Caracas. 
"VVe  met  several  herds  of  wild  cattle,  being  driven  toward.s 
Caracas  by  the  Uaneros  in  crimson  or  blue  ponchos,  mount- 
ed on  high-picked  saddles,  with  their  constant  companion,  tho 


INTRODUCTION.  XVll 

lasso,  iDlaited  into  their  horses'  tails,  and  tlie  long  cattle-spears 
in  their  hands.  The  cattle  were  luagniGcent-looking  animals, 
and  reminded  me  of  the  breed  that  one  sees  in  the  bull-rings 
of  old  Spain.  Coffee  is  more  cultivated  in  the  valley  of 
Chacao  than  any  other  crop,  and  it  contributes  in  no  small 
degree  to  the  beauty  of  the  scenery."  * 

Besides  coffee  this  country  produces  the  famous  Cacao  and 
indigo  of  Caracas,  sugar-cane,  and  cotton  of  superior  quality, 
tobacco  hardly  inferior  to  that  of  Cuba,  especially  the  celebra- 
ted Varinas  and  Guacharo  kinds,  rice,  Indian-corn,  and  most 
of  the  cereals  of  northern  latitudes,  according  to  the  elevation 
above  the  sea  level ;  and  as  to  the  products  gathered  "  in  a 
state  of  nature,"  such  as  sarsaparilla,  India-rubber,  Piassaba, 
Vanilla,  and  Tonka  beans,  cabinet  and  dye-woods,  their  name 
is  legion,  and  would  require  a  separate  volume  devoted  to  that 
particular  branch  of  scientific  research,  which  the  reader  can 
find  admirably  compiled  in  the  works  of  Humboldt  and 
Bonpland,  St.  Hilaire,  Sir  Robert  Schombourgh,  Codazzi, 
and  others. 

Now  it  is  my  purpose  to  introduce  the  young  American 
reader  to  a  country — 

"  Where  maidens'  love  as  close,  as  sweet  will  twine, 
As  cling  the  tendrils  of  their  native  vine," 

and  which  hitherto  seems  to  have  been  a  sealed  book  to  the 
future  "  Merchant  Princes  "  of  the  great  North.  Humboldt 
describes  it  thus,  in  1802  : — 


•  "  Rambles   and  Scrambles  in  Xorth   and  South  America,."  by 
Edward  Sullivan,  Esq.     London,  1852. 


V  K  N  K  Z  V  K  L  A . 

"  Cakacas  id  the  capiUil  of  a  country  nearly  twice  m 
largo  as  Peru,  and  now  little  inferior  in  extent  to  the  king- 
dom of  New  Granada.  This  country,  wliich  the  Spanish 
government  designates  hy  tl»c  name  of  CapiLania-General  de 
Caracas,  or  the  United  Provinces  of  Venezuela,  has  nearly 
a  million  of  inhabitants,  among  whom  arc  sixty  thousand 
slaves.  It  comprises,  along  tho  coasts.  New  Andalusia,  or 
the  province  of  Cumana  (with  the  island  of  Margarita),  Bar- 
celona, Venezuela,  or  Caracas,  Coro,  and  Maracaibo :  in  the 
interior  the  Provinces  of  Barinas  and  Gui.'ina;  the  former 
situated  on  the  rivers  of  Santo  Domingo  and  the  Apure, 
the  latter  stretching  along  the  Orinoco,  the  Casiquiare,  tho 
Atabapo,  and  the  Rio  Negro.  In  a  general  view  of  the  seven 
United  Provinces  of  Tierra  Firme,  we  perceive  that  they  form 
three  distinct  zones,  extending  from  East  to  West. 

••  We  find,  first,  cultivated  land  along  tho  sea-shore,  and 
near  the  chain  of  the  mountains  on  tho  coast;  next,  savannas 
or  pasturages ;  and  finally,  beyond  the  Orinoco,  a  third  zone, 
that  of  the  forests,  into  which  we  can  penetrate  only  by  tho 
rivers  which  traverse  them.  If  the  native  inhabitants  of  the 
forest  lived  entirely  on  the  produce  of  the  chase,  like  those 
of  the  Missouri,  we  might  say  that  the  three  zones,  into  which 
we  have  divided  the  territory  of  Venezuela,  picture  the  three 
states  of  human  society ;  the   life  of  the  wild  hunter,  in  tho 


VENEZUELA.  XIX 

woods  of  the  Orinoco ;  pastoral  life  in  the  savannas  or  llanos, 
and  the  agricultural  state,  in  the  high  valleys,  and  at  the  foot 
of  the  mountains  on  the  coast."* 

And  yet  this  favored  region  can  be  reached  in  from  twelve 
to  fifteen  days  by  sailing  packets  between  Philadelphia  and 
La  Guaira ;  or,  should  your  fast  habits  require  it,  we  can 
avail  ourselves  of  the  Brazilian  Hne  of  steamships  which 
will  leave  us  at  St.  Thomas,  where  we  shall  meet  the  little 
steamer  jilying  regularly  between  both  points,  the  wliole 
voyage  being  thus  accomplished  in  eight  days.  As  we  are 
not  in  a  hurry,  however,  to  get  through  our  journey,  we  will, 
for  the  sake  of  convenience  and  diversified  amusement,  follow 
the  example  of  the  above-mentioned  traveller,  Sullivan,  who, 
in  company  of  a  friend,  made  the  trip  before  us  in  a  com- 
modious yacht  by  the  way  of  the  West  India  Islands ;  but 
having  no  craft  of  our  own,  we  may  be  permitted  to  borrow 
from  the  New  York  yacht  squadron  one  of  their  idle  cutters, 
which  can  thus  be  better  employed  than  in  cruising  round 
well-known  fashionable  retreats  during  a  few  months  of  sum- 
mer, and  exposed  for  the  rest  of  the  year  to  the  hard  knocks 
of  a  wintry  climate.  This  is  the  best  season  to  visit  the 
tropics,  as  well  as  the  West  Indies,  when  there  is  no  fear  of 
the  dreaded  vomito  or  sweeping  hurricanes. 

Hardly  a  day  passes  without  coming  in  sight  of  some 
lovely  isle  of  the  Caribbean  sea,  which,  like  the  "  Queen  of 
the  Antilles," — Cuba — rises  from  amidst  the  placid  waves, 
crowned  with  perpetual  wreaths  of  fragrant  orange-blossoms 

•  Tr.ivels  to  the  Equinoctial  Regions  of  America. 


XX  VKNEZL'ELA. 

and  stately  palms.  Cuba.  Hayti,  Porlo  Rico,  St.  Thomas, 
Sla.  Cruz,  Antigtin,  Granada,  Barbadoo.'S  Martiiii<.]uc,  Guadn- 
loupe,  Tobago,  and  Trinidad,  rise  one  after  another  in  quick 
Bucccssion.  "When  wo  reach  the  last  named  and  most  lovely 
of  all,  on  tlie  ea-slcrn  .extremity  of  Venezuela,  we  have  the 
choice  of  either  penetrating  at  once  into  the  field  of  our  ad- 
ventures by  entering  one  of  tlie  numerous  outlets  of  the 
Orinoco,  which  here  pours  out  its  tribute  to  the  mighty 
Atlantic  through  a  hundred  mouths ;  or,  following  the  lino 
of  coajsl  to  the  we.slwanl,  we  may  reach  a  point  near  the  fer- 
tile valleys  of  Aragua,  where  well-trained  hon?c3  for  the  eport 
ami  hardy  llancros  to  guide  u^,  await  our  arrival.  We  shall 
thu.s  have  an  opportunity  of  contemplating  and  admiring  that 
stupondoud  chain  of  mountains  (fit  offspring  of  the  mighty 
Andes  further  west),  which  seems  as  if  thrown  up  by  Titanic 
force  as  a  barrier  ;iL':iin-t  tlic  c :Kr<i:iclim<!it;-  «if  tin-  fierce 
Atlantic. 

Eudle.ss  are  iiic  i.c.'uitics  nnu  jaunts  of  intercut  presented 
by  this  splendid  chain  of  mountains  ;  its  varied  dimes,  from 
the  .scorching  heats  of  the  tierra  cahentc  on  the  sea  level 
to  the  frigid  blasts  of  winter  at  higher  elevations ;  its  silvery 
springs  and  roaring  cataracts ;  its  unrivalled  vegetation  and 
glittering  veins  of  precious  metals.  The  trade  winds  and 
currents  are  in  our  favor,  whicli  will  enable  us  to  reach  La 
Guaira  in  a  couple  of  day.s,  passing  in  quick  succession  some 
minor  porta,  such  as  Rio  Caribc,  Carupano,  with  its  silver- 
bearing  mountains  in  the  distance,  the  island  of  Margarita, 
famous  for  its  pcarli*,  as  the  name  implies ;  it,«5  fi.-«hcric.s,  and 
the   gallajit    defence    made    by  the   inhabitants  against  the 


VKNKZUELA.  XXI 

combiueil  attacks  of  tlic  Spanisli  liordcs;  Cuniana,  for  ita 
delicious  grapes  and  pine-aijples,  its  salubrious  climate,  and 
the  purity  of  the  sky,  which  enabled  the  immortal  Humboldt 
to  watch  in  wonderment  the  great  meteoric  shower  in  1799, 
which  he  compared  to  a  brilliant  display  of  fire-works ;  Bar- 
celona, noted  only  for  its  hides,  and  the  Monagas  brother- 
hood, who  were  for  many  years  the  terror  of  the  country. 

The  coast,  as  we  approach  La  Guaira,  is  lined  with  plan- 
tations of  sugar-cane,  cacao  and  cocoa-nuts,  two  articles  often 
confounded  in  English  spelling,  but  widely  different  in  them- 
selves. The  former  grows  on  a  moderately-sized  tree,  with 
large,  glossy  leaves,  while  the  latter  is  the  product  of  a  palm, 
remarkable  for  the  height  it  attains,  and  the  prodigious  size 
of  its  fruit,  in  bunches  that  few  men  can  lift  from  the  ground. 
The  cacao  nuts,  on  the  contrary,  grow  in  pods,  resembling 
large  cucumbers,  of  a  rich  chocolate  color  outside,  filled  with 
oblong  nuts  enveloped  in  a  white,  sub-acid  pulp,  very  agreeable 
to  the  taste  especially  of  parrots,  monkeys,  and  squirrels,  who 
destrov~great  quantities  of  the  pods  for  the  sake  of  the  pulp, 
so  that  they  require  constant  watching  to  protect  them  from 
these  pests. 

A  cacao  plantation  is  one  of  the  handsomest  orchards 
that  can  be  seen,  shaded  as  they  are  by  another  tree  of  large 
proportion",  the  crythrina,  a  leguminous  plant  with  crimson 
flowers,  which  you  may  have  noticed  in  greenhouses  at  home, 
though  much  reduced  in  size,  as  it  never  attains  there  more 
*han  a  few  feet  above  the  boxes  on  which  they  are  raised  as 
an  ornament  to  the  garden  in  summer.  The  rapidity  with 
which   these   trees  grow  in  the  tropics  is  astonishing,  for  in 


mm  aluWiy  J«:Uiii'.  tuba.  Havti,  i'i.>n<>  H;  ■•,  r^l.  ilU'iiiHS, 
Sla.  Criiz,  Antigiinf  Graiiudn,  Hurbudoc;*,  Martini«]uc,  Gundn- 
loupe,  Tubngu,  nnJ  Tnuiilud,  nuc  one  after  nnother  in  quick 
Hucccssiuii.  When  wc  reach  the  lasl  nanie<l  and  most  lovely 
of  all,  on  tlio  c&storn  pxlrernily  of  Venezuela,  we  have  the 
choice  of  either  penetrftting  at  once  into  the  field  of  our  ad- 
ventures by  entering  one  of  the  numerous  outlets  of  tho 
Orinoco,  which  here  poura  out  its  tribute  to  the  mighty 
Atlantic  through  a  hundred  moutlis ;  or,  following  the  line 
of  coast  to  the  westward,  we  may  reach  a  point  near  the  fer- 
tile  valleys  of  Aragua,  where  well-trained  horses  for  the  sport 
and  hnrdy  llaneros  to  guide  u.-«,  await  our  arrival.  We  phall 
thud  have  an  opportimity  of  contemplating  and  admiring  that 
fitupondoiuj  chain  of  mountains  (fit  ofiVpriugof  the  mighty 
Andes  further  west),  which  seems  aa  if  thrown  up  by  Titanic 
force  as  a  barrier  against  the  encroachment y  '  •"  •'  <•.  •  ■ 
Atlantic. 

KinUc.-s  arc  the  beauties  and  points  of  intcrcsl  prc^ulcd 
by  tliis  tiplendid  chain  of  moimtains  ;  its  varied  climes,  from 
the  scorching  heats  of  the  tierra  calienU  on  the  sea  level 
to  the  frigid  blasts  of  winter  at  higher  elevations ;  its  silvery 
springs  and  roaring  cataracts ;  its  unrivalled  vegetation  and 
glittering  veins  of  precious  metals.  The  trade  winds  and 
currents  arc  in  our  favor,  which  will  enable  us  to  reach  La 
Guaira  in  a  cou]ilc  of  day.**,  passing  in  quick  succession  some 
minor  porU,  such  as  Rio  Caribe,  Cirupano,  with  its  silver- 
bearing  mountains  in  the  distance,  the  island  of  Margarita^ 
(anions  for  its  pearl's  as  the  name  implies  ;  itj«  fi.shcriea,  and 
the   gallant    defence    made    by  the   inhabitants  against  the 


VENKZUELA.  XXI 

combiued  attacks  of  tlio  Spanisli  liordes;  Ciunana,  for  its 
delicious  grapes  and  pine-apples,  its  salubrious  climate,  and 
the  purity  of  the  sky,  which  enabled  the  immortal  Humboldt 
to  watcli  iu  wonderment  the  great  meteoric  shower  in  1799, 
which  he  compared  to  a  brilliant  display  of  fire-works;  Bar- 
celona, noted  only  for  its  hides,  and  the  Monagas  brother- 
hood, who  were  for  many  years  the  terror  of  the  country. 

The  coast,  as  we  approach  La  Guaira,  is  lined  with  plan- 
tations of  sugar-cane,  cacao  and  cocoa-nuts,  two  articles  often 
confounded  in  English  spelling,  but  widely  different  in  them- 
selves. The  former  grows  on  a  moderately-sized  tree,  with 
large,  glossy  leaves,  while  the  latter  is  the  product  of  a  palm, 
remarkable  for  the  height  it  attains,  and  the  prodigious  size 
of  its  fruit,  in  bunches  that  few  men  can  lift  from  the  ground. 
Tlie  cacao  nuts,  on  the  contrary,  grow  in  pods,  resembling 
large  cucumbers,  of  a  rich  chocolate  color  outside,  filled  with 
oblong  nuts  enveloped  in  a  white,  sub-acid  pulp,  very  agreeable 
to  the  taste  especially  of  parrots,  monkeys,  and  squirrels,  who 
destroygreat  quantities  of  the  pods  for  the  sake  of  the  pulp, 
so  that  they  require  constant  watching  to  protect  them  from 
these  pests, 

A  cacao  plantation  is  one  of  the  handsomest  orchards 
that  can  be  seen,  shaded  as  they  are  by  another  tree  of  large 
proportions,  the  erythrina,  a  leguminous  plant  with  crimson 
flowers,  which  you  may  have  noticed  in  greenhouses  at  home, 
though  much  reduced  in  size,  as  it  never  attains  there  more 
*.han  a  few  feet  above  the  boxes  on  which  thoy  are  raised  as 
an  ornament  to  the  garden  in  summer.  The  rapidity  with 
which  these  trees  grow  in  the  tropics  is  astonishing,  for  in 


XXU  TKHSEUXLA. 

eight  ur  tun  years  •^hc  tinio  re<iuirfd  to  reach  ita  inaxiinuin 
growth,  thfv  attain  the  size  uf  tho  Urgost  denizens  of  tlie 
forosL  Ohicrvo  how  their  tops  glow  witli  tlje  fierj  hue  of 
their  blo&ionu<,  for  this  is  the  se&son  when  thcv  exchange 
their  leaves  for  flowers,  liie  only  instance  of  a  plant  shedding 
it«  leaves  in  these  latitudes,  witli  the  exception  of  the  ceiba 
or  silk  cotton  tree,  which  tho  author  of  Amyas  Leigh  has  so 
admirably  described  as  growing  close  to  where  we  are  jour- 
neying jtist  now. 

Here  the  cordillera  rises  considerably  above  the  connect- 
ing mountainis  attaining  a  heiglit  of  thirteen  thousand  feet  in 
tlie  peak  of  Naiguata,  which  you  may  perceive  peeping 
tlirough  the  clouds  yonder,  and  the  next  one  eleven  thousand 
in  the  Cerro  de  Avila,  both  forming  what  is  called  the  Silla, 
or  Saddle  of  Caracas,  at  tlie  foot  of  which  stands  La  Guaira, 
the  principal  port  of  the  republic,  but  the  vilest  anchorage 
in  thi-  world.  Here  ends  our  yacht  excursion  ;  trusting  in 
future  to  the  nimble-footed  mule  or  to  the  thumping  stage 
coaches  for  the  rest  of  the  journey. 

Despite  its  wretched  shipping  facilities.  La  Guaira  carries 
on  a  very  active  trade  with  foreign  marts,  as  is  attested  by 
the  number  of  English,  French,  German,  and  Italian  mer- 
chants, with  a  few  Americans,  residing  here,  forming,  as  it 
were  a  tnily  foreign  colony.  The  heat,  as  you  perceive,  is 
intense,  owing  to  the  proximity  of  the  barren  mountain-base, 
which  leaves  room  scarcely  for  a  loaded  mule  to  turn  round 
in  the  narrow  and  crowded-up  streets.  On  this  account,  I 
presume,  La  Guaira  is  very  healthy,  for  not  even  the  Asiatic 
cholcni  could  obtain  a  footing  here— excuse  th«  pun — when 


VENEZUELA.  XXlll 

it  deciniateJ  the  capital  in  1853.  Cases  of  voinito  ocoir  from 
time  to  time;  but  these  are  more  tlie  exception  than  the 
rule ;  so  it  does  not  follow  that  all  hot  places  in  the  tropics 
are  unhealthy,  for  Carupano,  Margarita,  Cumana,  La  Guaira, 
and  Coro,  which  are  within  the  isothermal  line  of  greatest 
heat — owing,  doubtless,  to  the  dry,  stony,  or  sandy  soil  on 
which  they  stand — are  among  the  healthiest  spots  in  Vene- 
zuela. However,  we  shall  soon  be  out  of  this  sultry  place, 
and  amidst  the  glories  of  a  temperate  climate.  For  this  pur- 
pose we  will  hire  mules  at  one  of  the  posadas  or  hotels,  to 
ascend  the  mountains  on  our  way  to  Caracas,  the  capital 
of  the  republic,  giving  the  preference  to  the  old  road,  which 
is  much  shorter  and  more  picturesque  than  the  new  one  for 
carriage  travel.  Let  us  hear  first  the  enthusiastic  English 
tourist  describe  this  route,  as  I  may  be  accused  by  some  of 
partiality  towards  my  own  country. 

"  The  ascent  is  very  precipitous,  and  the  road  rough  and 
narrow,  but  the  view  of  the  boundless  ocean  on  one  hand,  and 
the  magnificent  range  of  mountains  on  the  other,  was  very 
grand.  Tlie  road  rather  reminded  me  of  the  Great  St.  Ber- 
nard, though  the  resemblance  would  not  bear  analyzing.  The 
sensation  of  rising  gradually  into  the  cooler  strata  of  air  was 
most  delicious  ;  and  at  length,  being  suddenly  enveloped  in  a 
cloud,  I  felt  actually  cold  (a  novel  sensation  I  had  not  expe- 
rienced for  several  months),  and  was  not  at  all  sorry  to  put  on 
my  jacket.  There  is  no  mountain  in  the  tropics  where  you 
rise  a3  immediately  and  suddenly  from  tiie  stifling  heat  of 
the  Tierra  Caliente  to  the  delicious  temperature  of  an  Eu- 
ropean sunrise  in  spring,  as  the  Silla  of  Caracas. 


XXIV  VBNEZl'KLA. 

"On  tlio  roa«l  from  Vcm  Cruz  to  Mexico,  whon  iik-  tinv 
eller  arrives  at  the  height  of  four  thou«inil  feet,  beyouJ 
which  the  fever  never  spreads,  he  is  uj>wartls  of  thirty  miles 
from  the  sea,  whereaa,  on  the  road  up  the  Silla  at  that  height 
the  ocean  lies  immediately  at  his  feet,  and  he  looks  down  upon 
it  as  from  a  tower.  So  perpendicular  is  the  face  of  the  Silla 
towards  the  sea,  that  any  large  boulder  or  mass  of  rock  becom- 
ing detached  high  up  the  mountain  and  bounding  down  its 
face,  would  fall  clean  into  the  ocean.  About  half  way  up  the 
mountain,  wc  crossed  a  deep  clefl  in  the  mountain  called  the 
Siilto— a  jump — on  rather  a  rickety  old  draw-bridge.  The 
bridge  is  commanded  by  a  ruinous  old  town,  called  Torre 
Qucmada,  or  the  Burnt  Tower,  a  name  it  derives  from  its  be- 
ing placed  just  at  the  height  where  the  traveller,  descending 
to  La  Guaira,  first  encounters  the  stifling  exhalations  from 
the  Tierra  Caliente.  About  nine  o'clock  we  stopped  to  break- 
fast at  La  Venta,  an  inn  some  five  thousand  feet  above  La 
Guaira.  Here,  in  a  perfectly  European  atmosphere,  we  lay 
out  in  the  grass,  and  gazed  down  upon  the  ocean  and  the 
town  of  La  Guaira ;  we  could  just  distinguish  the  Ariel, 
looking  the  size  of  a  walnut-shell,  hoisting  her  white  sail,  and 
standing  away  for  Porto  Cabello,  where  we  were  to  meet  her, 
unless  we  returned  to  Trinidad  via  the  Rio  A  pure  and  the 
Orinoco." 

Both  sides  of  the  road  arc  lined  with  ^fagucy  plants,  or 
varieties  of  the  Agave  genus,  improperly  called  alots  and 
century-plants,  from  a  mistaken  notion  that  they  only  blossom 
once  in  a  hundred  years.  The  most  beautiful  of  these  is  the 
eocuy^  with  thick  glossy  leaves  of  a  clear  emerald  color,  from 


VENEZUELA. 


six  to  eight  foet,  and  a  flowor-stock  from  twenty-five  to  tliirty 
feet  in  length.  I  behevc  it  is  the  same  species  that  yields 
the  famous  beverage  of  the  Mexicans,  called  pulque,  which 
some  compare  to  fermented  animal  juices.  A  much  more 
agreeable  drink  is  obtained  here  by  distillation  from  this  plant, 
and  its  leaves  turned  to  better  account  by  scraping  out  the 
fine  fibres  they  contain,  from  which  most  beautiful  hammocks 
are  made  in  various  parts  of  the  country,  besides  ropes,  coffee- 
bag?,  twine,  etc.,  etc.  A  fortune  is  in  store  for  some  Yankee 
genius  who  will  invent  the  proper  machine  for  dressing  these 
leaves  and  getting  the  fibres.  The  other  varieties  are  the 
cocuiza  brava,  or  common  century-plant  (Agave  Americana), 
with  serrated  leaves,  on  which  account  it  is  very  useful  for 
making  hedges,  and  the  cocuiza  duke,  with  perfectly  smooth 
leaves,  containing  the  strongest  fibres  and  usually  cultivated 
for  that  purpose.  The  pith  of  the  flower-stock  is  also  turned 
to  account  in  various  ways,  especially  for  making  the  best  kind 
of  razor-strops. 

Were  you  as  much  a  lover  of  plants  as  I  am,  I  would  in- 
vite you  to  descend  with  me  to  one  of  those  lovely  glens 
formed  by  these  mountains.  There,  amid  moss-covered  rocks 
and  sparkling  rivulets,  I  would  point  out  to  you  those  singular 
orchidacceous  plants  usually  called  air-plants,  because  they  ob- 
tain their  nourishment  from  the  moist  air  that  surrounds  them, 
— not  a  bad  idea, — those  lovely  daughters  of  Flora  and  Fa- 
vonius,  so  rich  in  perfume  as  well  as  color,  but  whose  prin- 
cipal charm  consists  in  their  caricaturing  most  living  objects 
in  nature,  from  the  "human  form  divine,"  as  in  man-orchis 
(0.  mascula)  to  the  bumble-bee,  often  deceived  by  a  perfect 


XXVI  VKSEZl  KI.A. 

represciii.».;..:i  ..i  nn  (*jK-cii-!j  (Ophriij  ai>ifera).  Thus  w« 
count  among  our  floral  treasures  "  angels,"  "swans,"  "dovea," 
••eagles,"  "pelicans,"  "spiders,"  "butterflies,"  "  buuible-beee," 
and  even  a  perfect  infuut  in  it^i  cradle,  was  found  by  Linden  in 
the  mountains  of  Merida.  The  celebrated  Flor  del  Espiritu 
Santo  (Peristcria  clata)  is  another  of  this  class.  It  is  there 
only  that  are  found  those  two  most  beautiful  species  of  cattlcya 
(C.  MossioB  and  C.  Labiata),  so  highly  prized  by  plant  collec- 
tors, from  all  nations,  and  here  called  Fi-r  dc  Moyo,  or  May- 
flower, because  it  blossoms  principally  in  the  month  of  May. 
Great  favorites  are  they  with  us  also,  and  no  court-yard  is 
deemed  sufficiently  ornamented  at  Caracas  without  one  or 
more  haskcU  of  these  lovely  plant.>»,  the  stump  of  a  tree,  or  any 
rustic  basket  filled  with  bark  or  moss,  being  sufficient  support 
for  them.  In  the  game  manner  the  curious  Butterfly-flower 
(Oncidium  papillio)  is  raised  along  with  the  others,  often 
deceiving  persons  unacquainted  with  it,  with  a  perfect  rep- 
resentation of  the  insect  whose  name  it  bears ;  and  if  you 
should  visit  with  me  some  of  the  cacao  plantations  in  the 
tierra  caJiente,  I  would  point  out  to  you  two  equally  ex- 
quisite plants  of  the  same  family  attached  to  the  rough 
stems  and  branches  of  the  Erythrina,  namely,  the  Swan-flower 
(Cycnoches  vcntricosum)  and  the  Vanilla,  both  filling  the 
air  with  the  same  perfume,  but  in  diflferent  form,  the  former 
through  its  swan-like  flowers,  in  clusters  of  three,  five,  and 
even  seven,  and  the  latter  through  its  ripened  pods — so  well 
Known  to  perfumers  and  confectioners — as  the  blossoms  of 
this  last,  though  quite  large  and  handsome,  are  destitute  of 
perfume. 


VENEZUELA.  XXYU 

But  to  return  to  our  mountain  ride,  for  it  is  time  that 
we  should  be  prepared  to  behold  a  still  more  glorious  view 
from  the  summit,  than  the  one  just  described  hy  Sullivan  : 
"After  a  regular  Spanish  breakfast  of  chocolate  and  fried 
eggs,  for  which,  in  as  regular  Spanish  custom,  we  were 
charged  about  ten  times  the  proper  amount,  we  continued  our 
ascent,  and  gained  the  seat  of  the  Saddle,  a  hollow  between 
the  two  peaks,  called  the  Pummel  and  Croup,*  about  ten 
o'clock.  The  summit  of  the  pass  called  Las  Vueltas,  is  a 
smooth  undmlating  grass-land,  somewhat  like  the  sheep-downs 
of  Sussex.  The  bold  rockj  peaks  on  either  hand,  stretching 
in  a  serrated  ridge  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  were  very- 
fine.  I  could  scarcely  fancy  myself  to  be  only  ten  degrees 
north  of  the  equator,  and  actually  on  or  rather  only  eight 
thousand  feet  above  the  isothermal  line  of  greatest  heat, 
which  passes  through  Cartagena,  La  Guaira,  and  Cumana. 

"  We  had  left  far  below  us  all  the  tropical  flora,  and 
were  amongst  English  ferns  and  English  blackberries ; 
and  I  actually  discovered  one  familiar  friend,  a  dandelion. 
From  the  summit  of  Las  Vueltas,  you  first  get  a  mag- 
nificent view  of  the  valley  of  Chacao,  lying  some  four 
thousand  feet  below  you,  with  the  city  of  Caracas  in  the 
centre  of  it.  I  don't  ihink  the  view  from  that  height  is  so 
fine  as  some  thousand  feet  lower  down,  where  it  certainly 
boats  any  view  I  have  ever  seen.  It  is  finer  in  my  opinion 
than  the  first  coup  d'oeil  of  the  Vega  and  city  of  Granada 

•  The  writer  is  mistaken  ;  t'.ie  Saddle  stands  four  or  five  miles 
east  of  ihi3  point,  which  is  called  La  Cumbre,  or  the  Summit. 


XXVllI  TEKEZUELA. 

from  the  Ultimo  Suspiro  del  Moro,  where  the  degenerate 
BcMibdil  cl  Ciiioo,  both  in  mind  and  body,  turned  to  take 
one  last  fond  look  at  the  luxurious  abode  of  his  chivalrio 
ancestors  and  wept  bitterly,  though  too  lat<»,  at  his  own 
cowardice  and  duplicity,  which  had  almost  without  a  blow 
surrendered  to  the  "curs  of  Nazareth"  the  splendid  heri- 
tage of  nearly  seven  centuries,  and  which  was  never  but  in 
imagination  to  return  to  the  true  sons  of  the  Prophet.  It 
is  also  finer  than  the  Valley  of  Chamouni  or  Martigny, 
from  the  Tete  Noire,  but  I  think  it  bears  more  resem- 
blance to  the  Vega  of  Grauada.'' 

Observe  how  regularly  laid  out,  nt  right  angles  to  each 
other,  the  streets  are ;  the  area  of  the  city  is  great  for  the 
number  of  inhabitants  (sixty  thousiind),  most  of  the  houses 
being  built  one  story  high,  and  occupying  in  consequence 
a  largo  space,  on  account  of  the  earthqiiakes,  which  arc  (»f 
frequent  occurrence  all  along  the  Andean  range.  As  we 
approach  the  suburbs,  you  may  notice  some  of  the  ruins 
still  remaining  of  that  dreadful  catistrophc,  which,  in 
1812,  levelled  this  beautiful  city  to  the  ground,  burying 
beneath  the  debris  twelve  thousand  of  the  inhabitants,  just 
as  they  had  assembled  in  the  magnificent  churches  of  that 
time  to  render  homage  to  the  day.  Holy  Thursday.  Since 
then  the  city  has  been  rebuilt,  it  is  to  be  hoped  on  more 
solid  basis. 

Giracas  claims  the  honor  of  having  given  birth  to 
several  distinguished  individuals,  among  others  to  Bolivar 
and  Miranda,  two  of  the  greatest  champions  of  South 
American  independence ;  to  Rosio,  the  Jefferson  of  Vene- 


VENEZUELA. 


ziiohi ;  to  AiKlres  Bello,  a  great  poet  aud  publicist ;  and  to 
the  eminent  surgeon  and  physician,  Dr.  Vargas,  one  of  the 
Presidents  of  the  Republic. 

The  climate  of  Caracas  has  often  been  called  a  per- 
petual spring.  '•  What  can  wc  conceive  to  be  more  de- 
lightful than  a  temperature  which  in  the  day  keeps  between 
20°  and  20^,*  aud  at  night  between  1G°  and  18°,  which  is 
equally  favorable  to  the  plantain,  the  orange  tree,  the  coffee 
tree,  the  apple,  the  apricot,  and  corn  ?  Jose  de  Oviedo  y 
Bafios,  the  historiographer  of  Venezuela,  calls  the  situation 
of  Caracas  that  of  a  terrestrial  paradise,  and  compares  the 
Anauco  and  the  neighboring  torrents  to  the  four  rivers  of 
the  Garden  of  Eden."  f 

The  hotels,  Sullivan  describes  as  being  as  good  as  any 
in  Europe.  "  You  might  travel  from  one  end  of  Old 
Spain  to  the  other  without  finding  anything  to  be  com- 
pared to  them,  either  as  regards  cleanliness  or  the  civility 
of  the  landlords."  But  as  here  I  am  at  home,  you  are  most 
cordially  invited  to  our  mansion  at  the  end  of  the  Calls  del 
Comcrcio,  where  you  may  verify  for  yourself  the  truth  of 
the  statements  concerning  the  climate  and  productions  of 
this  fertile  valley.  We  may  at  once  enter  the  garden, 
which  occupies  nearly  the  whole  square,  where,  after  our 
rough  ride,  we  can  refresh  ourselves  with  the  fruits  of  the 
season. 

Here,  as  you  perceive,  you  find  growing  side  by  side 
the   refreshing   orange  and  the  luscious  apple,  the  pome- 

•  Centigrade  tbermom.  f  Humboldt — Travels. 


XXX  VENEZLELA. 

graiialc  and  the  p<iafh  ;  tin-  l):inan:i,  the  citron,  the  guava, 
the  sapodilln,  and  papaw  tree,  all  of  them  eminently  tropi- 
cal fruits,  with  the  pear,  llu-  grupo-vine,  and  other  pro<luc- 
tions  of  temperate  regions,  Unsurpasstnl  by  any,  not  even 
by  the  famous  Manposteon  of  the  Spicy  Isl.mds.  you  have 
here  the  delicious  Chirimuya,  or  eherimoycr,  as  pronounced 
by  Anglo-Saxons,  and  which  I  cm  only  liken  to  lumps  of 
flavored  cream  ready  to  be  frozen,  suspended  from  the 
branches  of  some  fiiry  tree  amidst  the  most  overpowering 
perfume  of  its  fluwers ;  fur  it  is  in  bearing  all  the  year 
round,  us  indeed  are  most  of  the  fruit  trees  you  see  about 
this  garden,  and  consequently  you  may  at  all  times  enjoy 
the  advantage  of  refreshing  the  inner  as  well  as  the  outer 
man  with  a  "  wilderness  of  sweets."  Markhani,*  who  has 
tiist.'d  both  the  chirimoya  and  mangosteen  in  their  native 
habitat,  gives  the  pn-forenec  decidedly  to  the  former,  and 
says  of  it :  "  He  who  has  not  tasted  the  chirimoya  fruit 
has  yet  to  learn  what  fruit  is."  "Tlie  pineapple,  the  man- 
gosteen  and  the  chirimo^-a,"  says  Dr.  Secman,  ''  arc  c<»n- 
Biderctl  the  fuiest  fruits  in  the  world.  I  have  t,astc<l  them 
in  thase  localities  in  which  they  arc  supjxtscd  to  attain 
their  highest  perfivtion — the  pineapple  in  Guayaquil,  the 
mangosteen  in  the  Indian  Archipelago,  and  the  chirimoya 
on  the  slope  of  the  Andes,  and  if  I  were  called"  upon  to  act 
the  part  of  n  Paris,  I  would  without  hesitation  assign  the 
apple  to  the  chirimoya.  Its  taste  indeed  surpasses  that  of 
every  othir  fruit,  and  Ilaenke  was  qiiitc  right  when  he 
called  it  the  mastcrpictx'  of  nature." 

•  Travels  in  Poni  ami  Infii*. 


VENEZUELA.  XXXl 

The  numerous  varieties  of  hot-house  grapes,  which  in 
your  variable  climate  of  the  north  require  so  much  skill 
and  attention  to  perfect  their  growth,  here  thrive  without 
the  least  care,  and  the  vines  which  you  see  struggling  here 
and  there  among  the  trees  for  some  kind  of  support,  pro- 
ceed from  cuttings  which  I  brought  over  six  years  ago  from 
one  of  the  best  regulated  establishments  in  Connecticut. 

Here,  too,  the  stately  Mauritia-palm  of  the  Orinoco,  the 
date-palm  of  the  burning  Sahara,  the  royal-palm  of  Cuba 
(Oredoxa  Regia),  and  the  oil-palm  of  Africa  (Eleis  guinensis) 
commingle  their  majestic  crowns  with  the  dense  foliage  of 
the  mango  tree  of  India,  the  aromatic  cinnamon  tree  of  Cey- 
lon, the  bread-fruit  tree  of  Otaheite,  and  the  sombre  pines 
and  cypress  of  northern  regions,  forming  the  most  effective 
protection  to  the  shade-loving  magnolia  and  the  delicate 
violet  of  your  native  woods. 

Swarms  of  tiny  and  brilliant  humming-birds  flutter 
amid  masses  of  highly-scented  orange  blossoms  that  per- 
fume the  air  around  us.  Any  one  unacquainted  with  that 
bijou  of  the  feathered  tribe,  would  mistake  it  at  first  sight 
for  some  of  the  metallic-colored  beetles  which  dispute  with 
them  the  nectar  of  the  fragrant  flowers,  so  brilliant  is  the 
lustre  shed  by  both.  "  For  that  peculiar  charm  which 
reside-si  in  flashing  light  combined  with  the  most  brilliant 
colors,  the  lustre  of  precious  stones,  there  are  no  birds,  no 
creatures  that  can  compare  with  the  humming-birds.  Con- 
fined exclusively  to  America — whence  we  have  already 
gathered  between  three  and  four  hundred  distinct  species, 
and  more  are  continually  discovered — these  lovely  little 


i.\Xil  VBVKZCELA. 

winged  poms  were  to  the  Mexican  and  Peruvian  Indians 
the  very  quintessence  «»f  Wauty.  Hy  these  simple  people 
ihcy  were  railed  by  various  names,  signifying  *  the  niys  of 
the  sun,'  *  the  trenses  of  the  day-star/  aiid  the  like,'*  * 

You  may  have  noticed  in  your  conservatories  at  home 
a  well  known  creeper  called  the  passion-flower,  on  account 
of  a  fancied  similarity  in  the  arrangement  of  its  inflor 
escencc  with  the  instruments  of  torture  employed  in  the 
martyrtlom  of  the  Saviour,  such  as  the  crown  of  thorns, 
the  three  nails,  the  hammer,  and  even  the  spots  of  sacred 
blood  n)und  the  pillar  of  agony,  llie  plants  of  this  genus 
are  genend  favorites  with  northern  horticulturists  only  on 
account  of  the  beauty  and  delicious  aroma  of  their  flowers, 
for  they  Ix-ar  no  fruit  with  you  ;  but  here,  this  constitutes 
their  principal  merit,  cspi-cially  that  v(  the  pranatlilla, 
which  you  may  perceive  intertwining  its  graceful  vines 
amongst  yonder  arbor  set  up  for  its  support.  Huge  water- 
melon-like fruits  hang  from  its  delicate  tendrils  as  if  sus 
pentlcd  by  a  thread  ;  cut  open  one  of  them  ;  you  will  find 
it  filled  with  a  nectarian  juice,  which,  when  crushed  in  the 
mouth,  regale  your  palate  with  the  compound  flavor  of 
the  strawberry  and  the  jteach.  Other  varieties  of  passion- 
flower— of  which  there  are  many  though  less  pretentious 
in  size  than  the  granadilla — bear  fruit  equally  rich  in 
flavor,  rnfortunatcly,  not  all  fructify  in  the  same  local- 
ity,  as  they  require  difl*erent  degrees  of  temperature,  ami 
maybe  of  atmospheric  pressure,  also,  t-o  ripen  their  fruit, 
which  tliey  cunningly  obtain  for  themsi-lves  by  "squatting" 

•  GoMc'a  "  Romwjco  of  Nalural  ITislorv." 


VENEZUELA.  XXXUl 

of  their  own  accord  liighor  up  or  lower  down  the  mountains, 
as  the  case  may  be, 

I  could  still  point  out  to  you  many  other  delicious  fruits 
in  this  garden  were  they  in  season,  such  as  the  tuna  or 
Indian-fig,  borno  by  the  nopal,  a  species  of  cactus,  on  tho 
fleshy,  downy  stems  of  which  the  cochineal  insect  is  reared 
for  those  most  valuable  crimson  and  scarlet  dyes  "  which 
far  outshine  the  vaunted  productions  of  ancient  Tyre  ;  "  and 
the  pitahaya,  of  the  same  family  of  plants,  notable  for  the 
size  and  effulgence  of  its  flowers.  "  It  begins  to  open  as 
the  sun  declines,  and  is  in  full  expanse  throughout  the 
night,  shedding  a  delicious  fragrance,  and  offering  its  brim- 
ming goblet,  filled  •with  nectarious  juice,  to  thousands  of 
moths,  and  other  crepuscular  and  nocturnal  insects.  When 
the  moon  is  at  the  full  in  those  cloudless  nights  whose  love- 
liness is  only  known  in  the  tropics,  the  broad  blossom  is 
seen  as  a  circular  dish  nearly  a  foot  in  diameter,  very  full 
of  petals,  of  which  the  outer  series  are  of  a  yellowish  hue, 
gradually  paling  to  the  centre,  where  they  shine  in  the 
purest  M'hite.  The  numerous  recumbent  stamens  surround 
the  style,  which  rises  in  the  midst  like  a  polished  shaft,  the 
whole  growing  in  its  silvery  beauty  under  the  moonbeams, 
from  the  dark  and  matted  foliage,  and  diffusing  its  delicious 
dove-like  fragrance  so  profusely  that  the  air  is  loaded  with 
it  for  furlongs  round."* 

I  well  remember  one  night  when  a  distinguished  for- 
eigner, General  Devereux,  who  rendered  the  patriot  cause 
80  marked  a  service  by  bringing  over  the  Irish  Legion  to 

•  Romance  of  Natural  Ilistorv. 


VKNKZIELA. 


assist  this  country  in  hi-r  struggK- f<>r  inJepcndcncc,  honored 
me  with  a  vi^it  \vhilc  keeping  bachch>r's  hull  in  this — tome 
Uu'ii— K'arthly  paradise.  The  Queen  of  Nij^hi  was  shining 
in  all  her  glory,  and  the  air  redolent  with  the  iKTfume  of 
many  excjuisite  fl«i\vers,  among  others  that  of  the  pitahaya 
just  di-scribed,  while  the  siillne«8  that  reigned  around  the 
Hpot,  added  to  my  youthful  dreams  of  fairy  lands  I  hud 
lately  visited  arross  the  seas,  made  mc  feel  a  particular 
pride  about  our  mansion  in  the  capital.  Although  the  old 
hero  was  perfectly  blind — as  will  be  recollected  by  nmny 
who  knew  hiiu  in  the  I'nited  States  where  he  resided  after- 
wards— I  could  not  resist  the  wish  to  invite  him  t«»  take  a 
stntll  about  the  garden.  As  we  passe«l  close  to  the  flowers 
of  the  pitahaya,  the  gallant  old  soldier  stopped  suddenly, 
and  seizing  me  by  the  hand  with  an  emotion  that  made  mo 
feel  the  deepest  sympathy  for  the  blind  man,  said  :  "  I  low 
haj'py  you  must  be  lu-re,  my  yomig  friend,  surroundi-d  as 
you  are  by  plants  that  shed  such  heavenly  perfume  !  "  But 
when  we  pjissed  a  Imwer  of  Kn'ili'.h  honeysuckles,  which  was 
my  special  favorite,  as  I  had  planted  it  with  my  tiwn  hands, 
his  emotions  were  indeed  those  «)f  a  mail  who  felt  as  though 
everything  on  earth  was  lost  to  him — sweet  homo,  friendly 
associations,  the  world  itself  in  fact,  and  that  ho  was  only  a 
wandering  spirit  in  a  strange  sphere. 

Tius,  my  good  companion,  reminds  me  too  that  such, 
more  or  less,  is  my  own  situation  in  this  my  native  land, 
subject  as  it  has  been  fir  years  to  political  convulsions  more 
dis;»strous  to  the  peacefully  inclined,  than  those  s\ibternuiean 
fires  which  agitate  the  soil  from  time  to  time.     Tlicreforo 


VENEZUELA. 


our  rambles  in  the  capital  must  be  of  sh(irt  duration,  and 
following  the  rout  already  pointed  out  by  the  traveller  Sul- 
livan, wo  will  proceed  on  our  journey  towards  the  fertile 
valley  of  Aragua,  stopping  for  the  night  at  Las  Adjuntas,  a 
village  delightfully  situated  at  the  foot  of  another  lofty 
range  of  mountains  which  separates  this  from  that  of  Cara- 
cas, near  the  junction  of  two  mountain  streams  that  form 
the  Kio  Guaire  which  passes  near  the  capital. 

Should  you  ever  be  troubled  with  nervousness  or  dys- 
pepsia from  too  close  application  to  business,  or  even  be 
threatened  with  that  more  serious  complaint  of  cold  cli- 
mates, consumption,  don't  let  your  Doctor  bother  you  with 
physic,  nor  delude  yourself  with  a  trip  "  down  South," 
Cuba,  or  even  Europe  ;  all  this  may  at  best  prolong  a  mis- 
erable existence  a  little  longer  ;  instead  of  that,  come  here 
at  once  ;  bring  plenty  of  books  to  while  away  the  dolce  far 
niente  of  this  quiet  place  ;  or  if  you  arc  a  sportsman,  your 
gun  and  fishing  tackle  ;  when  sufTicicntly  convalescent  to 
undergo  the  fatigues  of  the  journey,  buy  or  hire  horses  for 
yourself  and  a  good  ^;<?o/t  or  guide,  and  start  for  the  llanos, 
where  you  will  have  to  rough  it  out  as  I  did  some  years 
ago,  and  I  guarantee  you  a  radical  cure. 

At  Las  Adjuntas  wo  have  the  choice  of  two  roads,  one 
for  carriages,  made  at  great  cost  since  Sullivan's  visit  to  the 
country,  and  the  other  one  right  over  the  mountains ;  as 
this  is  by  far  the  most  picturesque  of  the  two  and  the  one 
described  by  him,  we  will  follow  on  his  footsteps,  if  you 
wish  to  enjoy  the  glorious  scenery,  of  which  he  says ; 

*'  Next  morning,  at  3  a.  m.,  our  fuitht'ul  inozo  roused  us, 


XIXVJ  VENUl'ELA. 

—at  San  Pedro — and  wc  found  our  mules  already  saddled. 
The  morning  was  very  cold,  and  a  cloak  was  by  no  means 
dmagreeablo.  As  far  as  I  could  make  out  by  the  light  of  a 
most  f;l<irious  moon,  San  I*cdro  must  be  a  very  picturesque 
and  flourishing  village.  We  continued  ascending  through  a 
thirkly-wooded,  mountainous  path,  for  about  thp.-e  hours, 
wh.n  we  found  ourselves  along  the  summit  of  the  mountain, 
here  called  LasCocuizas.  Here  the  scenery  was  truly  mag- 
nificent. The  road  wound  along  the  summit  of  the  Sii?rra, 
giving  alternate  views  of  the  valley  of  the  Tuy,  with  the 
distant  valley  of  .\ragua  on  the  one  liand,and  the  valley  of 
Ocumare  bounded  the  snow-capped  mountains  that  separate 
the  valleys  fn>m  the  plains  on  the  other.  Out  of  the  main 
valleys  narrow  little  glens  wind,  and  nestle  up  into  the 
mountains,  till  lost  to  view.  Their  rounded  sides,  and  the 
emerald  brilliancy  of  nature's  carpet  with  which  they  were 
clothed,  reminded  me  of  some  of  the  glens  of  the  Cheviots. 
"That  morning's  moonlight  ride  along  the  summits  of 
the  sierra  of  I>as  OKUiizas  was  certainly  one  of  the  most 
enjoyable  I  ever  remember.  It  w.as  almost  like  magic, 
when  as  the  sun  began  to  approach  the  horizon,  the  perfect 
stillness  of  the  forests  beneath  was  gradually  broken  by  the 
occasional  note  of  some  early  riser  of  the  winged  inhabit- 
ants, till  ut  length,  as  the  day  itself  began  to  break,  the 
whole  forest  seeme<l  to  be  suddenly  warmed  inti»  life,  send- 
ing forth  choir  after  choir  of  gorge<Mis-plumaged  songsters, 
each  after  his  own  manner,  to  swell  the  chorus  of  greeting 
— a  discordant  one,  I  fair  it  must  W  owned — to  the  glorious 
aim  ;  and  when  the  morning  light  enablcil  you  to  see  down 


VENEZUELA.  XXXVll 

into  the  misty  valleys  boiu'iitli,  there  were  displayed  to  our 
enchiuited  gaze  zones  of  fertility  embracing  almost  every 
species  of  tree  and  flower  that  flourishes  between  the  Tierra 
Calientc  and  the  regions  of  perpetual  snow.  It  certainly 
was  a  view  of  almost  unequalled  magnificence.  We  were 
riding  amongst  apple  and  peach  trees  that  might  have  be- 
longed to  an  English  orchard,  and  on  whose  branches  wc 
almost  expected  to  see  the  blackbird  and  the  chaflinch ; 
while  a  few  hundred  yards  below,  parrots  and  macaws, 
monkeys  and  mocking-birds  were  sporting  among  the  palms 
and  tree-ferns  of  a  tropical  climate.  I  consider  that  this 
view  alone  would  repay  any  lover  of  fine  scenery  for  all  the 
troubles  and  risks  of  crossing  the  Atlantic,  for  I  do  not 
know  where  one  to  be  compared  with  it  is  to  be  found  in 
Europe." 

This  mountain  takes  the  name  of  Las  Cocuizas  from  the 
abundance  of  Agave  plants  growing  here,  and  which  impart 
such  peculiar  aspect  to  the  landscape  as  wc  descend  towards 
the  bed  of  the  Tuy,  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain.  Here  wo 
must  stop  to  breakfast  and  pass  the  sun  before  we  proceed 
on  our  journey  along  the  Tierra  Calientc  not  for  from  our 
resting-place. 

"  We  found  the  pretty  village  of  Las  Cocuizas,"  proceeds 
Sullivan,  '•  situated  at  the  entrance  of  a  delicious  little  glen, 
down  which  warbled  the  waters  of  the  Tuy.  The  Venta,  in 
fact  nearly  the  whole  village  was  shaded  by  one  enormous 
saman-tree,*  which  to  the  dusty  and  wearied  traveller  gave 
it  a  most  enticing  appearance ;  neither  did  it  disappoint  our 

•  A  species  of  Mimosa. 


XXXVltl  VXVBXUXLA. 

ezpoctatioiis,  for  a  cleaner  room  and  a  better  breakfast 
better  cooked  and  better  served,  I  never  wish  to  taste. 
Tliis  venta  at  I^«  Cocuiras  is  most  enehantingly  ^ituat<^d  at 
the  foot  of  tho  mountain  and  at  the  entrance  of  the  valley 
of  the  Tiiy,  which  is  there  a  mere  glen  ;  one  side  is  entirely 
fchaded  by  this  enormous  tree,  and  tho  other  overhanging 
the  Tuy,  whiih  with  its  rooky  bed  and  thickly-wooded,  pro- 
cijiitous  banks,  reminded  one  very  much  of  some  of  the  trib- 
utaries of  the  Tweed.  The  venta  would  be  a  charming  place 
to  sUiy  at  for  a  few  days' angling  in  the  Tuy,  which  1  believe 
is  very  good." 

After  leaving  the  venta  of  Las  Cocuizas,  we  wado 
through  the  waters  of  the  Tuy — no  bridge  being  jtrovided 
here — and  proi'eed  along  a  well  grade*!  road  for  carts  and 
carriages  skirting  the  b;ise  of  another  ridge  of  mountains 
until  we  reach  the  village  of  Kl  Consi-jo,  where  the  great 
valley  of  Aragua,  seventy  miles  in  length,  properly  com- 
nuMicca.  And  now  we  are  in  the  great  coflTee  region,  "  tho 
garden  of  Venezuela"  as  it  is  very  aptly  called  by  common 
accord.  As  we  ride  towards  the  town  of  La  Victoria, 
where  we  shall  stop  for  the  night,  we  pass  several  extensive 
plantations  of  that  delicious  shrub,  shaded  like  the  cacao  by 
those  stupendous  erythrinaa  which  you  might  mistake  for  a 
primeval  f<irest,  were  it  not  for  the  uniformity  of  their 
growth  and  dazzling  blossoms.  Nothing  in  your  vaunted 
By  stem  of  cultivation  in  the  North  can  excel  the  care  be- 
stowerl  upon  these  plantations,  which  must  be  kept  in  tho 
best  order  to  yield  handsome  returns  ;  but  as  we  cannot 
8t4»p  to  visit  one  of  these  just  now,  you  will  permit  n«c  to 


VENEZUELA.  ZZZIX 

repeat   what    tlic   traveller   often  quoted   before,   says    in 
rogaril  to  the  region  we  are  traversing  : 

"  The  valleys  of  Aragua  are  the  most  thickly  populated 
and  the  most  highly  cultivated  of  all  the  districts  of  Vene- 
zuela. The  level  of  the  valley  is  two  thousand  feet  below  the 
valley  of  Caracas,  consequently  the  heat  much  more  intense. 
Coffee  is  now  the  chief  article  of  exportation  from  Venezuela, 
the  fluctuating  price  of  which  has  of  late  years  been  very 
injurious  to  the  country.  The  berry  grown  is  of  a  superior 
quality,  and  fetches  a  much  better  price  than  the  Cuban  or 
Brazilian  coffee,  though  not  quite  so  high  as  that  grown  in 
Jamaica.  Some  of  the  coffee  and  sugar  estates  we  passed 
were  on  the  largest  scale,  employing  as  many  as  two  hun- 
dred slaves,*  besides  the  same  nun\ber  of  laborers.  A  coffee 
plantation,  either  in  blossom  or  when  the  berry  is  ripe,  is 
the  most  beautiful  culture  in  the  world.  The  plant  itself, 
with  its  regular  shoots  like  a  miniature  tree,  and  red  berries, 
is  one  of  the  most  graceful  shrubs  I  know  ;  and  as  between 
the  rows  of  coffee-trees  they  usually  plant  plantains  and 
bananas,  these  with  their  enormous  clusters  of  yellow  fruits 
and  their  leaves  of  some  six  or  eight  feet  in  length,  add 
greatly  to  the  effect,  and  give  the  country  the  appearance 
of  a  large  fruit  garden.  Moreover,  as  it  is  necessary  to 
plant  the  mango,  and  other  large  fast-growing  trees,  to  pro- 
tect the  ripening  berry  from  the  deluging  rains  and  scorch- 
ing heats,  whenever  you  pass  a  coffee  plantation,  even  in  the 
hottest  day  in  the  midst  of  summer,  when  the  whole  face 
of  the  country  is  parched  up  anil   of  an  unhealthy  brown 

•  Slavery  has  siace  been  abolished  in  Venezuela. 


VKNKZCELA. 


color,  the  eye  is  coiitiiaially  refreshed  by  the  cool,  verdant 
appearance  of  those  sliadcd  gardens." 

I  may  add  tlmt  the  cofTeu  of  Venezuela  is  o(  various 
qualities, according  to  Mhether  it  is  raised  inTierraCalicnto 
or  Ticrra  Fria,  i</  est,  coffee  of  the  low,  warm  valleys,  or 
coHec  of  mountainous  districts  ;  tiiis  Ixst  is  superior  to  tiie 
former,  and  bears  in  consequence  the  highest  price  in  tho 
market.  Again,  ca/e  trillado,  and  ca/t  dfscerezado,  which 
means  coflTec  dried  in  the  berry  as  it  is  gathered,  and  husked 
iJtcrwards  by  a  trcad-mill  composed  of  a  heavy  wooden 
wheel  revolving  in  a  circular  trough  of  mas«.>nry  ;  ond  coflco 
deprived  at  once  of  its  pulpy  covering  by  machinery  as 
soon  as  it  is  picked,  dried  afterwards  in  Uic  sun  upon  ex- 
tensive platforms  of  mjisonry  called  patios,  and  passed 
through  diflerent  sets  of  machinery  to  deprive  the  grain  or 
bean  of  the  adhering  shell  and  pcUielo.  The  cofToelhus  pre- 
pared is  superior  in  quality  to  tluit  which  is  trillado  for 
want  of  means  on  the  part  of  the  planter  to  put  up  the  ex- 
pensive works  required  for  this  operation,  and  therefore 
bears  a  higher  price. 

Iritcrs[>ersed  with  tlioe  plantations  are  others  of  no  less 
importance  to  the  industry  of  these  valleys,  such  as  in«ligo, 
cotton,  indian-corn,  wheat  and  tobacco,  all  of  them  requiring 
the  same  share  of  careful  cultivation  and  intelligent  manage- 
ment. "  Tlio  road  we  were  f<»llowiiig,"'  continues  Sullivan, 
•*  was  so  well  kept  and  so  well  wooded,  and  tho  hedges  s  > 
neatly  clipped,  that  I  could  hardly  sometinies  help  fancying 
mys*lf  riding  down  some  country  lanes  in  England.  We 
followed  one  lime  hedge,  which  enclosed  a  coffee  plantation, 


VENEZUELA.  xll 

for  upwards  of  two  inilos.  It  was  the  most  perfectly  kept 
lieilge  I  had  seen  in  any  country  ;  it  was  four  or  five  feet 
liigh  and  about  three  feet  thick,  and  throughout  its  whole 
length,  I  don't  believe  there  was  a  single  flaw  through  which 
a  dog  could  liavc  forced  its  way.  Several  slaves  were  em- 
])loyed  in  trimming  it.  In  fact,  in  this  climate,  whei'e  the 
growth  of  all  inanimate  nature  is  unceasing,  and  so  rapid, 
it  must  employ  several  hands  continually  to  keep  it  in  such 
beautiful  order.  The  scent  of  the  lime  as  wc  approached  it 
from  some  parched  country  we  had  been  crossing  previous- 
ly, was  most  delicious." 

As  there  is  nothing  to  interest  us  in  the  towns  along 
this  route,  we  will  pass  by  San  Mateo,  La  Victoria  and 
Turmero,  all  of  them  pleasantly  surrounded  by  plantations 
until  wc  reach  Maracay,  the  point  of  our  destination.  On 
our  way  thither,  we  come  up  with  that  giant  of  the  vege- 
table world,  the  Saman  de  Gilere,  so  well  described  by 
Humboldt  in  his  Travels,  and  subsequently  by  Sullivan. 
As  their  statements  are  corroborative  of  the  facts  given  else- 
where by  me  respecting  these  enormous  but  most  graceful 
mimosas,  I  will  here  use  the  language  of  the  last  mentioned 
traveller  about  that  of  the  hacienda  de  Giiere. 

"  Soon  after  leaving  Turmero  we  caught  sight  of  the  far- 
famed  Saman  de  GUcre,  and  in  about  an  hour's  lime  arrived 
at  the  hamlet  of  Gilere,  from  whence  it  takes  its  name.  It 
is  supposed  to  be  the  oldest  tree  in  the  world,  for  so  great 
was  the  reverence  of  the  Indians  for  it  on  account  of  its  age 
at  the  time  of  the  Spanish  conquest,  that  the  Government 
issued  a  decree  for  its  protection  from  all  injury,  and  it  has 


Xlii  VKSEZl'ELA. 

ever  sinco  been  public  property.  It  shows  no  sign  what- 
ever of  decay,  but  it  is  as  fresh  and  green  as  it  was  most 
probably  a  thousand  years  ago.  The  trunk  of  this  nmgnifi- 
cent  tree  is  only  sixty  feet  high  by  thirty  feet  in  circumfer- 
ence, so  that  it  is  not  so  much  the  enormous  size  of  the 
Saman  do  GQere  that  constitutes  its  great  attraction,  as  the 
Wonderful  spread  of  its  magnificent  branches,  and  the  per- 
fect dome-like  shape  of  its  head,  which  is  so  exact  and  regu- 
lar, that  one  could  almost  fancy  some  extinct  race  of  giants 
had  been  exercising  their  ttipiarian  art  upon  it.  The  cir- 
cumference of  this  dome  is  said  to  bo  nearly  six  hundred 
feet,  and  the  measure  of  its  semicircular  head  very  nearly 
as  great.  The  saman  is  a  species  of  mimosa,  and  what  is 
curious  and  adds  greatly  to  its  beauty  and  softness  is,  that 
the  leaves  of  this  giant  of  nature  are  as  small  and  delicate 
as  those  of  the  silver  willow,  and  are  eijually  as  sdisitivo  to 
every  passing  breeze." 

And  now  for  the  most  pieturesque  of  all  the  towns  on 
our  long  ride,  Maracay,  not  on  account  of  any  architectural 
display  about  its  buiMings,  for  it  has  no  pretensions  of  this 
kind,  but  for  its  many  gardens,  each  house  being  literally 
embowered  in  the  choicest  productions  of  the  tropics  in  the 
way  of  fruits,  such  as  orange,  lime  and  lenjon  trees,  both 
sweet  and  sour ;  caimito  or  star-apple,  a  creamy  and  lus- 
cious fruit  growing  upon  one  of  the  most  beautiful  trees 
with  which  I  am  acquainted  ;  the  same  might  be  said  of 
two  other  fruit-trt«*s  cultivated  in  these  gardens,  the 
incmon  and  cot'>priz,  both  bearing  great  lninclies  of  an  oval 
fruit  the  size  of  a  pigeon's  egg,  olive-green  in  the  former, 


VENEZUELA.  xUu 

and  bright  yellow  iu  the  latter,  containing  a  kernel  envel- 
oped in  a  sweet,  sub-acid  pulp  ;  bread-fruit  trees  of  two 
iiiiids  and  accordingly  distinguished  as  fruta  de  ])a7i  and 
})an  de  pah,  bread-fruit  and  bread-tree — the  former  be- 
ing a  large  pulpy  and  greenish  fruit  very  like  an  Osage 
orange  but  larger,  containing  great  numbers  of  chestnut-like 
seeds,  which  roasted  or  boiled  taste  very  much  like  bread, 
and  the  latter  a  fruit  precisely  like  its  congener  in  appear- 
ance, but  destitute  of  seeds,  which  assimilates  it  still  more 
to  the  "  staff  of  life  "  when  boiled  or  baked,  for  it  is  beau- 
tifully white  and  compact  inside. 

In  addition  to  the  foregoing,  these  gardens  offer  you  a 
fine  display  of  other  tropical  trees  no  less  esteemed  for 
their  grateful  shade  and  their  delicious  fruits,  such  as 
sapotes  and  sapodillas,  both  elegant  in  form  as  well  as  in 
bearing ;  and  so  is  also  the  splendid  mamey  apple-tree 
(mamca  Americana)  bearing  great  quantities  of  large,  round 
and  heavy  fruits,  brown  outside,  and  golden-yellow  within, 
from  which  marmalades  and  other  delicacies  are  made  by 
the  charming  Maracayeras, 

The  fiimily  to  which  the  famous  chirimoya  belongs 
(anonaciop)  have  also  three  other  representatives  hardly- 
inferior  to  that  "  master-piece  of  nature,"  viz. ;  the  giianA- 
bana  (anona  muricata)  or  sour-sop — an  ugly  name  in  Eng- 
lish for  such  fine  fruit — from  which  a  most  cooling  drink  is 
made,  and  still  finer  ices  ;  the  custard-apple,  which  needs  no 
further  explanation  than  its  name  to  recommend  it ;  and 
the  ririon,  (anona  squamosa)  also  a  custardy  kindney-like 
fruit,  hence  its  name. 


xlvi  VKNEZIKLA. 

the  hint  auJ  humidity  of  the  ntmosphcrc.  An  iminense 
populatiou  (inda  abundant  nuurishincut  within  a  narrow 
space  covered  with  plantains,  casava,  yams,  and  maize.''  ♦ 

Well  has  the  immortal  bard  of  the  Torrid  Zone  f  sung  the 
marvellous  exuberance  of  this  plant  in  the  following  lims, 
which  I  regret  to  be  unable  to  traiJshito. 

Y  jiara  ti  cl  banano, 

I)e«iinaya  ul  pe«o  dc  ku  duU-e  carga. 

£1  banaiio,  priinero 

Dc  cuantos  conccdi«'i  bcllos  prcscntea 

ProTidcucia  k  las  gentcs 

Del  Ecuador  fcliz  con  maiio  Urga  ; 

No  ja  dc  humonas  aitcs  obligado 

El  prcmio  rindo  opimo  ; 

Ko  OS  &  la  potiadern,  no  al  anido, 

Deudor  dc  e\i  rarlino. 

Escasa  indiuitria  baj^tale  cual  puode 

Robar  k  bus  fatigaa  mono  ct<clava  ; 

Crecc  vclor.,  y  cuando  cxhatuto  acaba, 

Adulta  prole  en  lomo  lo  succdi-." 

^i7i<i  d  la  Zona  TOrrida. 

Water  being  abiiixlaiit  througliout  these  ganlons  by  the 
provident  care  of  the  inhabitants  in  bringing  it  in  flowing 
streams  from  a  great  distance,  they  present  at  all  times  of 
the  year,  even  during  the  driest  months  of  summer,  the  per- 
petual spring-like  verdure  which  constitutes  their  principal 
charm.     Not  far  from  here  is  the  fine  lake  of  Tacaiigua  or 

•  "  TraTcls  to  the  Eqiiinoclial  Regions  of  America." 
f  Andmi  Bcllo. 


VENEZUELA.  xlvil 

Valencia,  which  by  its  gradual  but  marked  evaporation,  is 
constantly  adding  to  the  already  extensive  area  of  fertile 
land  nowhere  to  be  found  like  it  in  the  wide  world,  and 
which  doubtless  extorted,  even  from  an  Englishman,  the  fol- 
lowing confession : 

"  It  is  a  great  pity  Venezuela  is  so  much  out  of  the 
high  roads  of  travel,  and  that  the  inconveniences,  for  Eu- 
ropeans, of  getting  at  it,  are  so  great.  It  is,  in  my 
o])inion,  the  most  beautiful  country,  as  regards  climate, 
scenery,  and  productions,  in  the  world.  The  inhabitants  are 
intelligent,  civil,  and  honest ;  and  although  there  is  no  ex- 
cessive wealth  in  the  country,  there  is,  on  the  other  hand, 
no  great  poverty,  and  actual  want  is  unknown,  where  beef 
can  be  procured  to  any  amount  for  a  half  penny  a  pound, 
and  plantains  and  bananas  almost  for  nothing.  The  inns 
are  excellent,  and  travelling  perfectly  safe.  You  may,  on 
the  side^  of  its  precipitous  valleys,  in  a  few  hours,  ascend 
from  the  productions  of  the  torrid  zone  to  those  of  the  frigid. 
You  may,  if  you  like,  dine  off  beefsteak  and  potatoes,  cooled 
down  with  French  claret  or  real  London  stout ;  or,  if  you 
prefer  it,  you  may,  in  imitation  of  Leo  X.  and  the  Emperor 
Vitellius,  feast  your  guests  on  joints  of  monkey  and  jaguar, 
and  have  your  entremets  of  parrots'  tongues  and  humming- 
birds' breasts  washed  down  with  sparkling  pulque,  tapped 
from  the  graceful  maguey  growing  at  your  very  door.  In 
fact,  there  is  no  luxury  you  cannot  enjoy  at  a  moderate 
expense.  Servants  arc  cheap  ;  and  you  can  buy  a  horse  for 
five  shillings,  though  it  will  cost  you  fifteen  to  have  him 
shod  !     The  shooting  on  the  llanos  and  in  the  mountains, 


Xlviii  VESKZCELA. 

•ccordiiiR  to  all  acociuiits,  is  very  grand.  The  woods  are 
fillfil  with  jaguar  and  c»cilut,  to  say  nothing  of  snakes,  and 
the  plains  with  deer  and  wild  cattle. 

"  if  any  kind  fairy  were  to  oflcr  me  the  sovereignty  of 
any  part  t)f  the  world  out  of  Europe,  with  power  to  rule  it 
as  I  choose,  my  choice  would  certainly  fall  on  Venezuela.  1 
am  fully  convinced  it  only  teants  a  ijovernment  strong  and 
statu  enough  to  ensure  the  necessary  protection  to  capital 
and  proprrty,  to  render  it  one  of  the  most  flourishing  coun- 
tries in  the  M<»rld.  I  look  back  upon  the  few  weeks  I  spent 
there  as  amongst  the  most  enjoyable  I  ever  passed  ;  and  if 
ever  any  opportunity  wjis  to  offer  of  revisiting  that  delicious 
country,  I  should  do  so  with  pleasure.  Any  traveller,  wish- 
ing to  judge  for  himself,  has  only  to  go  by  the  West  India 
steamer  to  Su  Tliomas,  where  he  meets  the  saihng-packct 
for  La  (Juaira,  which  ho  reaches  in  four  or  five  days  ;  and 
with  a  few  letters  of  introtluction,  or  even  without  any, 
hospitality  will  meet  him  on  all  hands,  and  he  will  never 
feel  a  moment  hang  heavy  on  his  hands."  * 

And  now,  seated  under  the  refreshing  foliage  of  these 
paradisaical  gardens,  rather  than  expose  you  to  the  dangers 
of  a  denii-savage  country,  I  will  recount  to  you  the  adven- 
tures of  a  former  journey,  and  the  peculiarities  of  a  still 
more  wimderful  region. 

•  Sulliv.in. — ILimble^  ami  Scnunblcs  in  North  ami  South  America. 


LIST    OF    ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Frontispiece — Map  of  Venezuela 

Caracas, 

Morros  de  Sun  Juan, 

The  Llanos, 

Pounding  Corn, 

Striped  Catfish,     . 

The  Caribe, 

The  Electric  Rel, 

Troop  of  Wild  Horses, 

A  Prairie  on  Fire, 

Encounter  with  a  Crocodile, 

The  Sanian, 

Garzero, 

Tlie  Rodeo, 

Training  the  Boys,     . 

Mata-caballo, 

Coral  Snake, 

Aristolochia  Apurcnsis,     . 

The  Jaguar, 

The  Puma, 

Gavzontandoy 

The  Armadillo,     . 


xxv.n 

IS 

20 

36 

01 

03 

08 

84 

97 

114 

122 

137 

KS 

200 

210 

212 

219 

222 

28» 

242 

24  a 


LIST  OF  ILLL'STIIATIONS. 

28.  The  Grwit  AntEtUr,                                                                   .  -^7 

24.  Among  Uie  Crocodiles,  •.'>! 

25.  Young  Crocodile,                                                                          .•.'►>  J 
2A.  Crocodile  Buking  in  (be  Fun,       ....  .".•i 

27.  Our  Leader,               ......  -.iZ'J 

28.  Capture  of  Spanish  Gunboats  by  Llancro  Caralry,  S30 

29.  Dr.  Galloj^M  Sewing  the  BcIIt  of  a  WounJi-d  Horse,  3rt5 

30.  Scenes  at  El  Dorado,                                                .  Si»l 

31.  Arrow  umhI  in  Turtle  Shooting,          ....  H?, 

32.  Ilomewanl  Bound.                          .  US 


TEAYELS  AISJD  ADYENTUEES. 


CHAPTER  I.    . 

THE      D  E  r  A  H  T  U  R  E  . 

"  Y  grcyes  van  h\i\  ciioiito 
PacicnJo  tu  viTilura  desile  el  llano 
Quo  tie;io  por  liudcro  el  horizontc, 
Hneta  el  erguido  moutc 
De  iuaccosiblo  nievo  sicmijre  cano." 

Andbes  Bello,  Silva  d  la  Zona  Tdn-iJu. 

On  a  fine  morning  of  a  tropical  December  month, 
a  jolly  cavalcade,  or  rather  a  heterogeneous  assemblago 
from  the  various  castes  composing  the  bulk  of  the  pop- 
ulation in  the  Venezuelian  Republic,  was  to  be  seen 
traversing  the  streets  of  the  beautiful  town  of  Mara- 
cay,  in  the  direction  of  the  road  leading  to  the  Llanos 
or  Pampas  of  Apure,  a  region  widely  celebrated  for  its 
wildness,  its  dangers,  and  the  many  exploits  enacted 
therein.  There  the  father  of  the  writer  owned  exten- 
sive cattle-farms,  and  the  aforesaid  company  proposed 
spending  the  remainder  of  the  summer  season  in 
hunting  among  the  untamed  herds  constituting  the 
wealth  and  commerce  of  that  wild  region. 

I  shall  never  forget  the  exciting  scenes  of  that 
eventful  day  ;  it  forms  one  of  the  most  pleasing  epi- 
sodes of  my  life.  Full  well  do  I  remember  also  the 
picturesqucncss   of  the  variegated   costumes  of  the 


o  TRAVELS  AXU  AbVEMURES. 

riderft  ;  their  rttl  and  blue  ponchos  flowing  in  tlie 
wind  Uii  thty  tanlend  to  and  fro  throu<;h  the  unuMi- 
ully  uniniatfd  streets  of  the  little  town,  takin«:  leave 
of  their  friends,  and  provisioning  their  fcaddlf-bags 
with  the  neees.-aries  they  re<|uired ;  the  tranij>ling 
and  neighing  of  horses  ;  the  i)arting  adieux  and  wav- 
ing of  handkerehiifs  in  the  hands  of  lively  brunettes, 
as  we  detihd  under  the  windows  and  baleonies  of  the 
Calle  Ileal,  crowded  with  anxious  relatives,  friends, 
and  sweethearts  of  many  a  gallant  cavalier,  who 
might  never  return  from  his  distant  and  ])erilotis 
journey.  For  my  jiart,  I  confess,  that  although  for 
sundry  reasons  I  regretted  departing  from  our  rouum- 
tic  abode  in  the  valleys  of  Aragua,  still,  S(»  great  was 
my  desire  to  visit  the  land  of  the  wild  bull  and  croc-o- 
dile,  that  for  seveml  nights  before  leaving  home  I 
dreamed  of  nothing  but  wild  scenes  and  terrible  cn- 
<ounters  with  the  lords  of  the  savannas. 

Tlie  method  of  conducting  a  South  American 
cattle  fiinii  is  entirely  dilTercnt  from  that  upually 
jtractised  amolig  the  more  peaceful  scenes  of  the 
North  American  jtrniries.  Here  the  cattle,  accus- 
tomed frouj  their  birth  to  the  friendly  voice  of  man, 
readily  obey  his  commands  and  follow  him  instinc- 
tively wherever  he  leads  them.  In  the  plains  of 
South  America,  on  the  contrary,  the  henls  Lear  no 
other  than  the  voice  of  Nature  in  her  sublimest 
moods,  in  the  thunders  of  the  storm,  and  when  in 
her  vernal  showers  she  calls  upon  the  crocodiles  and 
other  drowsy  rej^ilcs,  awakening  them  from  their 
jieriodical  summer's  lethargy  ;  and  nightly  the  roar 
and  screams  of  savage  beasts  answering  each  other  in 


THE  DEPARTURE.  3 

the  darkness.  Tlie  eattle,  thus  roaming  over  exten- 
sive i)hiins,  and  free  of  all  restraint,  necessarily  require 
to  be  occasionally  collected  together  for  the  purpose 
of  branding  and  marking  the  young  calves,  ^vh^ch  in- 
crease there  with  astonishing  rapidity.  If  this  pre- 
caution were  neglected,  they  would  in  time  become 
so  dispersed  over  those  boundless  plains,  as  to  be  al- 
together irreclaimable.  This  operation  cannot  be  ac- 
comi)lished,  however,  without  a  great  number  of  men 
and  horses,  both  well  trained  to  and  thoroughly  ac- 
quainted with  this  demi-savagc  occupation.  There- 
fore we  mustered  now  quite  a  little  army  of  Llane- 
ros^  or  natives  of  the  Llanos,  who  are  the  only  indi- 
viduals capable  of  prosecuting  and  successfully  per- 
forming the  arduous  duties  appertaining  to  these  cat- 
tle forays. 

Our  retinue  presented  pretty  much  the  appearance 
of  an  oriental  caravan  ;  it  consisted  of  more  than  a 
hundred  individuals  of  all  grades  and  colors  ;  from 
the  bright,  rubicund  faces  of  merry  England's  sons, 
to  the  jetty  phiz  of  the  native  African,  all  of  whom, 
notwithstanding,  fraternized  as  though  sj^rung  from 
the  same  race. 

Our  company,  moreover,  had  been  organized  as 
if  for  a  military  campaign,  and  formed  the  nucleus  of 
a  more  extensive  camp,  to  be  increased  by  additions 
from  dillerent  places  along  the  route.  The  leader — 
General  Pacz — besides  having  acquired  in  early  life 
a  practical  knowledge  of  this  peculiar  M'arfare,  pos- 
sessed in  addition  the  rare  gift  of  being — in  the  opin- 
ion of  inany — "  the  first  rider  in    South  America," 


I  TKA\l.l>   AM)    ADVENTURES. 

and  witlml  the  most  accumpli^hed  Llnnero  in  the  Ke- 
j»ul>lii'.  His  dU))o.sitiuns  were  accordingly  made  iu 
a  manner  most  likely  to  insure  bueeess  in  this  strange 
campaign  ;  passing  in  review  every  person  and  every 
ol»jeet,  with  as  sernj)idi>us  care  as  he  bestowetl  ujion 
the  legions  under  his  command  in  the  long  gtrilV  for 
his  country's  freedom  ;  distributing  each  particular 
horse  with  reference  to  the  skill  and  sj)ccial  duties  of 
his  rider,  and  every  load  according  to  the  strength  of 
each  beast  of  burden. 

Xext  in  importance^to  the  Leader  was  a  Surgeon 
and  Physician,  whose  valuable  servires  were  to  be 
trctjuently  called  into  re<juisition.  Although  we  were 
not  now  to  encounter  j)owder  and  ball,  we  had  to 
deal  with  no  Ici^s  dangerous  enemies  in  the  form  of 
wild  bulls,  snakes,  and  crocodiles,  without  reckoning 
the  pestiferous  mart-hcs  of  the  country. 

After  our  Surgeon  came  the  Trciu^urcr  :  his  duty 
was  to  conduct  safely  the  military  chest  of  the  expe- 
dition, consisting  of  sundry  bags  of  hanl  dollars,  pon- 
chos, cheekerc«l  linen  handkerchiefs  of  the  peculiar 
pattern  worn  with  so  much  pri<lc  by  Llaneros  on  the 
head,  knives,  sword  blades,  and  vari«ius  other  articles 
«»f  barter  which  they  prize  more  than  money  itself, 
and  for  the  attainment  of  whicli  they  lalu.r  hard  and 
even  e\j)o«j(>  their  live.*?. 

To  me  W.1S  assigned  the  honoralde  ]>opt  of  Secre- 
tary to  the  expedition,  whose  j>le.asant  duty  was  to 
kecj»  its  recorths  and  at  times  those  of  the  ]»oUtic.il 
••  Ihdls  and  Bears "  <»f  the  country  at  large.  At- 
tache«l  to  this  olliee  were  .in  Engli>h  amateur  of  wild 
sjKirts,  an  English  arti-t  ..r  ,■.■».,;,).,•.!.)..  merit,  and  a 


THE  DEPARTURE.  5 

few  others,  who,  like  myself,  not  being  sufficiently 
trained  to  the  hard  operations  of  the  iield,  were  foreed 
to  be  content  with  the  tamer  occupations  of  the  cattle 
farm,  and  only  an  occasional  foray  among  the  smaller 
game  of  the  savannas. 

I  will  mention  two  other  individuals,  who,  al- 
though filling  less  exalted  positions  than  the  preced- 
ing— being  the  cook  and  the  washerman — were  very 
necessary  to  our  comfort ;  not  that  we  felt  over-scru- 
pulous with  regard  to  the  dressing  of  either  ourselves 
or  that  of  the  savory  dishes  of  the  Llanos — where  I 
relished  a  beafsteak  au  naturel  with  as  much  gusto 
as  though  prej^ared  by  the  Delmouicos  or  Maillards 
of  Kew  York — but  an  early  cup  of  coffee  was  a  lux- 
ury not  to  be  despised,  and  an  occasional  scouring  of 
our  scanty  wardrobe  was  equally  an  essential.  The 
cook  was  a  mulatto  by  birth,  whose  name — Monico — 
bore  some  similarity  to  that  of  the  distinguished 
caterer  of  William  street,  and  was  as  great  a  favorite 
with  us  as  the  latter  is  among  the  "  down  town  " 
gentry  of  the  great  city,  not  only  on  account  of  his 
good  nature  and  skill  in  the  preparation  of  the  deli- 
cious beverage  before  mentioned, 

"  que  en  los  festines 
La  fiobrc  insana  templani  d  Lieo," 
but  also  for  tlie  aid  he  lent  his  companions  in  mend- 
ing their  tattered  garments,  being  as  accomplished  a 
tailor  and  shoemaker  as  cook.  Gaspar,  the  waslier- 
man,  was  a  lame  negro  rather  advanced  in  years,  but 
with  all  the  vivacity  of  his  race  still  sparkling  in  his 
eyes.  lie  had  earned  some  reputation  in  his  time  as 
a  brave  soldior  dni-ing  tho  proti-acted  war  of  Tnde- 


6  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTL-UES. 

peudcnce,  l»ut,  disabled  now  by  a  bullet  and  eundrv 
tiger  sears,  testimonials  of  his  good  serviee  in  the 
cause  of  liunumity,  could  perform  no  other  work  than 
the  rather  feminine  one  allotted  to  him  on  this  occa- 
sion, lie,  however,  j)osse.ssed  other  aceom|>li>hments, 
among  which  the  chief  was  that  of  recounting  his  ad- 
ventures in  the  wai-s  and  with  the  wild  beasts  of  the 
field,  which  made  him  a  de&ir;ible  companion  and 
general  favorite. 

Poor  fellows  I  thcv  are  both  dead,  and  their  bones, 
as  well  as  those  of  most  of  that  little  band  of  heroes, 
are  now  bleaching  in  the  hot  sun  of  the  tropics, 
amid  the  waving  grass  of  those  savannas  once  ren- 
dered famous  l>y  their  deeds  of  valor  and  enlivened 
by  their  chivalrous  songs.  After  faithfully  following 
tlieir  leader  through  dangers  and  hardships  no  less 
terrible  than  those  of  the  battle-lield,  one  by  one  they 
fell,  not  by  foe  "  in  battle  arrayed,"  nor  the  terrible 
stroke  of  the  wild  bull,  but  by  the  assassin's  treach- 
erous hand,  and  those  of  the  unprineii>led  mynnidons 
of  military  misrule  ;  not  because  of  their  political  in- 
fluence in  the  councils  of  the  Nation,  but  for  being 
the  faithful  followers  of  their  beloved  Chieftain. 

The  reader  has  now  been  introduced  to  those  con- 
stituting the  Staff  of  the  expedition  ;  but  in  addition 
a  host  of  attendants  and  idlers  formed  the  rank  and 
file  of  this  motley  assemblage.  Each  one  of  these  had 
a  special  duty  to  perform.  Some  were  asisttntrs,  or 
the  pei-sonal  attendants  of  the  former,  as  no  bianco 
ventures  to  travel  in  the  Llanos  without  some  r/rr/wj/' 
of  the  country  to  guide  him  over  the  trackless  wastes. 
to  saddle  his  horse,  and  see  that  both  horse  and  rider 


THE    DEPARTURE.  7 

arc  com  fort  til  )ly  quartered  for  the  niglit.  Otliers  were 
appointed  to  conduct  the  beasts  of  burden,  of  which 
tliere  were  a  formidable  array  ;  while  the  most  cx- 
])erienced  riders  were  intrusted  with  the  care  and 
o-uidance  of  our  madrina,  or  pack  of  supernumerary 
horses,  which  formed  by  far  the  most  efficient  ele- 
ment of  our  expedition. 

Our  drove  consisted  of  about  two  hundred  spirited 
chargers,  as  swift  and  slim  as  any  that  ever  tramped 
the  hot  sands  of  Yemen  or  the  Sahara  ;  these  were  to 
be  reinforced  with  fresh  relays  from  the  cattle  farms, 
to  supply  the  place  of  those  which  might  be  carried 
off  from  various  causes  during  those  exciting  hunts. 

The  only  method  of  travelling  as  yet  adopted  in 
the  country  is  on  horseback.  This  is  at  first  somewhat 
fatiguing  to  those  unaccustomed  to  long  journeys ; 
but  the  traveller  soon  becomes  inured  to  it,  and  ends 
by  preferring  it  to  any  other,  on  account  of  the  exhil- 
arating sensation  of  independence  he  experiences  ;  at 
all  events,  it  is  the  most  convenient  that  can  be  adopted 
in  a  country  which,  like  the  Pampas,  is  subject  to 
vast  inundations,  and  overgrown  in  all  its  extent  by 
the  rank  herbage  of  the  savannas.  On  the  mountains, 
mules  are  usually  preferred  for  their  surefootedness, 
as  also  for  their  astonishing  endurance  of  hunger  and 
fatigue  ;  but  in  the  Pampas,  where  journeys  must  be 
accomplished  with  great  expedition  and  rapidity,  they 
are  comparatively  worthless  from  the  shortness  of 
their  gait,  and  also  because  their  hoofs  become  soft- 
ened by  the  marshy  soil  which  everywhere  prevails, 
they  being  never  shod,  owing  to  a  mistaken  notion 
of  the  riders,  wlio  believe  that  by  so  doing  the  sure- 


TRAVELS  AND  ADVEXTCRKS. 

loot.  <iiit--.  wt  the  nninml  is  inipaii*cd.  The  best  lu»rsfs 
conM'<iiU'iitlv,  had  hct-n  bclerti'd  on  this  <>cc-iu>ion,  hut 
WL'Tv  not  to  be  taddk'd  until  wt-  rtaeliud  the  Lhuios. 
Tliesf  were  all  collected  into  a  madrina  or  drove,  to- 
gether with  the  va<jturos  or  horses  destined  for  the 
chase,  and  j»laeed  under  the  charge  of  half  a  di>zen 
experienced  Lhmcros,  who  were  to  drive  them  loose 
across  the  country.  In  the  mean  time  we  would  per- 
form on  mules  the  lirst  four  days  of  our  journey, 
which  lay  across  the  rough  and  hilly  eomitry  be- 
tween the  valleys  and  the  plains.  As  beasts  of  bur- 
den, nndes  are  j>articularly  serviccablo ;  in  view  of 
this  we  had  collected  a  j>ack  of  about  twenty  for  the 
purj>osc  of  trans|>orting  our  loads,  consisting  partly, 
a«  I  have  observed,  of  various  ih'scriptions  of  goods 
ior  di^tribution  among  the  Llaneros,  in  part  ])ayment 
of  their  wages ;  but  the  greater  number  were  hulen 
with  our  own  chattels  and  ]>rovi>ionp  ;  for  although 
the  Llanos  arc  justly  regarded  as  a  land  of  jtlenty,  the 
habitations  are  yet  so  widely  distant,  that  it  is  Q\\>e- 
diont  to  provide  for  all  contingencies. 

Our  road,  at  times,  lay  across  extensive  fields  of 
sugar  cane,  indigo,  and  t<»bacco ;  or  through  vast 
j>laMtations  «.»f  Erithynas  (Inu'^rnhfi)  raised  for  the 
protection  of  the  shade-hiving  Cacao  trees,  load«>d 
with  the  luscious  bean  that  yields  its  ''  divine  food  "  * 
to  gtMls  and  mortals.  At  other  times,  extensive  tracks 
of  waste  lands  (rajif ro/ott)  overgrown  with  a  luxtjriant 
vegetation,  intercepted  the  line  of  our  march,  giving 

•  Linmrw),  in  hi*  pnlhu«*.«m  for  Iho  deli|;htful  bcvt-rapp  ohtainoO  from 
thr  cacao  bcsn,  luuucd  the  plant  (hat  produccii  it  l/itobroma — food  for 


THE    DEPARTURE.  f) 

the  country  a  wild  and  desolate  aspect.  Land  is  so 
cheap  and  plentitul  in  Venezuela,  that  it  is  ahva3*s 
more  advantageous  for  the  planter,  ^vhenever  the 
land  has  hccome  exhausted  with  repeated  cultivation, 
to  clear  a  new  patch  of  ground  for  his  crop,  than  to 
trouble  himself  about  restoring  to  the  ground  by  ar- 
tificial means  what  nature  will  provide  in  the  course 
of  time.  The  rapidity  ^nth  which  a  patch  of  waste 
land,  that  only  a  year  or  two  before  had  been  aban- 
doned as  unserviceable,  becomes  covered  with  an  ex- 
uberant vegetation  in  the  ti-opics,  is  quite  extraordi- 
nary. Hardly  have  the  plough  {tnd  hoe  of  the  indus- 
trious husbandman  ceased  to  harass  the  land  with 
their  incessant  toil,  when  an  entirely  different  crop 
of  indigenous  j^lants,  M-hich  had  been  silently  strug- 
gling for  existence,  now  make  their  appearance,  and 
change  the  aspect  of  the  landscape  with  new  forms 
of  vegetation.  Insignificant  weeds  at  first,  scarcely 
worth  noticing,  they  soon  attain  sufficient  strength  to 
arrest  the  progress  of  any  stragglers  that  might  have 
remained  of  the  plantation.  In  a  short  time  they 
have  acquired  the  size  and  forni  of  welF-developed 
trees,  with  boughs  spreading  far  above  a  man  on 
horseback ;  and  before  two  summers  have  elapsed, 
not  a  vestijT-c  remains  of  what  was  once  a  flourishing 
plantation.  An  endless  variety  of  creepers,  such  as 
convolvulus,  bignonias,  and  passion  flowers,  now  find 
support  among  their  numerous  branches,  forming 
with  them  the  most  picturesque  bowers  and  arcades, 
or  hanging  by  their  sides  in  graceful  garlands  and 
festoons  of  the  most  exquisite  beauty.  Our  troop  of 
Bupernumerary  horses,  as  if  unwilling  to  leave  behind 
1* 


10  TRA>'ELS  AXI)  ADVENTURES. 

these  delightful  retreat^?,  did  not  fail  to  profit  bv  the 
tangled  nature  of  the  cover,  frequently  eluding  the 
vi"ilanee  of  the  driven>,  and  dashing  forward  when- 
ever they  feuw  an  opening  to  decamp.  The  most 
Bkilful  nianagcnient  on  the  part  of  the  drivers  was 
then  required  to  disentangle  them  from  the  thick 
jungle  ;  otherwise  we  thoidd  have  arrived  at  the  end 
of  our  journey  with  less  than  half  their  number.  It 
was  quite  amusing  to  sec  those  reckless  fellows  glid- 
ing here  and  there  through  the  tangled  woods  in  full 
pursuit  of  the  refractory  animals,  now  hanging  from 
one  leg  down  the  fides  of  their  steeds,  or  stretched 
over  their  necks  to  avoid  being  lifted  from  the  saddle 
by  the  intervening  branches.  In  sj»ite  of  all  precau- 
tion, and  the  vigilance  of  their  drivers.  Me  missed 
several  valuable  hunters  in  the  conrse  of  the  journey, 
every  one  of  which  made  his  way  back  to  iho  jwtreros 
or  old  grazing  grounds  with  nnerring  j^recision.  So 
remarkable  is  this  peculiarity  in  horses  of  one  place 
driven  across  a  strange  country,  and  the  cunning 
they  display  in  cfTecting  their  escape,  that  although 
■we  left  instructions  along  the  route  to  secure  all  de- 
serters, most  of  those  we  missed  at  a  considerable 
distance  from  ^laracay,  made  their  way  back  across 
the  fields,  avoiding  in  their  flight  the  public  roads 
and  ]>opulated  districts  through  wluch  we  had  passed. 
Late  in  the  evening  we  reached  kfan  Luis  de  Cura, 
a  town  of  some  importance  on  our  route.  Although 
we  had  there  many  friends  of  whose  liospitality  we 
could  have  availed  ourselves,  we  prcferretl  passing 
the  night  at  a  J*(ilpcri(i^  or  country  inn,  a  short  dis- 
tance in  advance — hotels  being  yet  unknown  in  that 


^^  ^Jt> 


THE   DEPARTlkE.  U 

part  of  tlie  country.  Our  nunicrons  retinue,  and 
especially  our  horses,  accustomed  to  the  unrestraiued 
freeduni  of  the^>o^rtr() — an  enclosed  field  attached  to 
the  I^ulperia — precluded  all  idea  of  seeking  accom- 
modations within  the  narrow  limits  of  a  city  residence. 
Declining,  therefore,  all  invitations  to  that  etiect,  we 
pushed  on  to  a  place  called  El  Eodeo,  a  few  miles 
further. 

San  Luis  de  Cura — or  Villa  do  Cura,  as  it  is 
usually  called — is  a  sort  of  entrepot  to  which  the 
people  of  the  Llanos  resort  from  time  to  time  to  bar- 
ter the  products  of  their  farms  for  those  of  foreign 
manufacture,  retailed  there  by  country  traders.  It 
is,  in  fact,  the  connecting  link  between  the  agricul- 
tural and  pastoral  sections  of  the  republic  ;  hence  we 
find  there  the  strangest  admixture  of  wild  and  civil- 
ized manners  and  costumes  curiously  intermingled  in 
all  the  pursuits  and  vocations  of  the  people.  Thus  we 
often  meet  with  persons  of  respectability  clad  in  the 
elegant  city  dress,  and  riding  a  horse  entirely  capar- 
isoned in  the  gaudy  attire  of  the  Llanos,  and  vice 
versa. 

Our  accommodations  at  the  inn  were  not  of  the 
most  inviting  description,  neither  its  apartments  nor 
XhQpotrero  aftbrding  much  comfort  to  the  weary  car- 
avan after  their  long  ride.  A  stony  bank  on  the 
slope  of  the  barren  hill  for  couch  and  the  broad  dome 
of  heaven  for  roof,  with  not  even  posts  enough  from 
which  to  sling  our  hammocks,  was  all  the  hospitality 
we  received  at  the  Pulpcria.  We  slept  soundly  not- 
withstanding, softening  our  beds  of  pebbles  by  spread- 
ing our  ponchos  over  them,  Avhile  each  man's  saddle, 


12  TRAVKI-S   AM)   AI>\  KNTLRES. 

scn'ing  nt  onec  as  ])illow  und  larder,  furnished  us 
with  bUj>i»c'r  on  this  occasion.  The  Hanero  sad- 
dle is  admirably  adaj)ted  lor  the  rougli  journeys  ot" 
the  country,  and  thougli  somewhat  |)onderoug,  ren- 
ders good  service  to  the  wandering  Llanero  in  his 
long  peregrinations.  These  saddles,  usually  styled 
vatjut'nuf,  in  allusion  to  the  occupations  of  the  riders, 
appear  to  be  modelled  after  the  gay  accoutrements  of 
the  Arabs ;  the  same  profusion  of  silver  ornament  and 
bright-colored  trimmings  of  morocctt,  the  high  peak 
in  front,  and  still  higher  cantle  behind.  A  comfort- 
able piUon  or  shabrack,  made  either  of  an  entire 
sheepskin  or  horse  hair  dyed  black  and  neatly  braided 
at  one  end,  covers  the  entire  seat,  and  hangs  from  it 
in  graceful  folds.  Kumbers  of  bags  and  pockets — 
balsas — made  of  the  same  material  as  the  saddle,  .md 
in  keeping  with  the  rest,  are  atlixed  to  it  for  the  pur- 
pose of  stowing  away  all  those  little  commodities  so 
essential  to  the  traveller  on  a  long  journey,  such  as 
pajhlon,  a  sort  of  brown  sugar  in  cakes  resembling 
maple  sugar,  cheese,  cakes  of  Indian  corn,  and  aguar- 
diente, a  beverage  e«iually  celebrated  for  its  use  and 
its  abuse.  Tlie  stirrups,  which  are  usually  carved  from 
a  block  of  wood,  ]tresent  the  peculiarity  of  being 
longer  and  heavier  than  any  ever  adopted  by  eques- 
trians. Although  termed  a/Hcanos,  they  are  just  the 
revei*sc  of  their  cognomens,  as  can  be  seen  by  com- 
j)aring  the  subjoined  designs. 

An  expert  rider  never  places  his  whole  foot  in  the 
stirrup,  as  is  the  case  with  the  Arabs,  but  holds  it 
with  his  big  t«>e,  so  as  t«t  <lisentangle  himself  readily 
in  case  of  a  fall.     This  habit  gives  a  crooked  6ha])e  to 


TUE    DEFAUTURE.  13 

tliG  feet  and  \c^s  of  the  rider,  whicli  peculiarity  en- 
titles him  to  the  ciredit  of  beinfr  a  £rood  horseman. 


The  carvings  on  some  of  these  stirrups  are  very 
fanciful,  and  display  considerable  taste.  Their  beauty 
is  thought  to  consist  chiefly  in  the  two  triangular  ap- 
pendages at  the  bottom  with  which  they  urge  on  their 
horses. 

The  cohija  or  poncho  is  also  a  most  indispensable 
commodity  on  these  long  journeys ;  and  no  traveller 
should  omit  providing  himself  with  one,  especially 
during  the  rainy  season.  It  is  fully  six  feet  square, 
with  a  hole  in  the  centre  to  admit  the  head,  and  its 
office  is  twofold,  viz.,  to  protect  the  rider  and  his 
cumbrous  equipment  from  the  heavy  showers  and 
dews  of  the  tropics,  and  to  spread  under  him  when 
there  is  no  convenience  for  slinging  the  hammock. 
It  also  serves  as  a  protection  from  the  scorching  rays 
of  the  sun,  experience  having  taught  its  wearer  tijat 
a  thick  woollen  covering  keeps  the  body  moist  and 
cool  by  day,  and  warm  by  night.  The  poncho  used 
in  Venezuela  is  made  double,  by  sewing  together  two 
difierent  blankets,  the  outside  one  being  dark  blue 
and  the  inner  one  bright  red,  which  colors,  as  is  well 
known,  are  difterently  acted  upon  by  light  and  heat. 
By  exposing  alternately  the  sides  of  the  poncho  to 


14  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTLTIES. 

the  li^lit  according  to  the  state  of  the  weather,  those 
nioditicntioii^i  of  tomperatiire  most  agrtn-able  to  the 
body  are  obtained.  Tlius,  when  the  day  is  damp  and 
cloudy,  the  tlark  gidc  of  the  i»oncho,  which  absorbs 
the  most  heat,  is  turned  towards  the  light,  while  the 
reverse  is  the  case  when  the  red  surface  is  presented 
to  the  sun.  On  the  same  principle,  the  j/ianta,  nr 
white  linen  poncho,  is  worn  when  the  sun  is  very- 
powerful,  the  color  in  this  instance  jcpelling  the  rays 
of  light  more  readily  than  the  reil  surface  of  woollen 
materials.  The  mania  is  a  very  expensive  luxury  on 
account  of  the  end»roideries  that  usually  decorate  it, 
and  which  might  rival  in  elegance  the  finest  skirt 
of  a  New  York  or  Pari>ian  htllt.  When  woni  by  a 
gallant  cavalier  on  a  sunny  day,  it  jtresents  in  the 
distance  a  very  picturesque  ai)pearance,  not  unlike 
the  gra<'eful  bornouso  of  the  Arabs. 

Equally  useful  and  expensive  is  the  hammock,  i.i.e 
of  the  few  articles  of  native  manufacture  ])roduced  ii\ 
Venezuela,  and  one  whieh  has  thus  far  battled  the 
ingenuity  of  foreign  weavers  to  imitate.  It  is  woven 
by  hand  on  lotmis  «tf  rude  constnietion  in  very  tasteful 
designs,  and  trimmed  with  fringings  of  the  most  com- 
plij'atcd  ]>attern.  A  line  hammock  costs  from  lifty 
to  sixty  dollars. 

It  may  truly  be  said  that  with  hammock,  poncho, 
and  the  saddle  with  its  array  of  poekets,  Arc,  the 
roving  dwellers  of  the  pampas  are  at  liome  wherever 
they  may  be.  Tliey  are,  in  fact,  the  tent,  bed,  and 
valise  best  adapted  to  the  country,  affording  them  all 
the  comfort  that  a  princely  rnj.ih  could  experience 
under  his  gorgeous  panoply  of  oriental  magnificence. 


THE    UErARTUUE.  15 

and  possessing,  moreover,  the  advantage  of  being 
easily  conveyed  from  place  to  jilace,  in  a  small  compass, 
1)}'  the  riders.  The  hammock  and  the  ])oncho  usu- 
ally form  a  bundle  behind  the  saddle  ;  ■with  them  the 
traveller  nuikes  himself  a  tent  when  camping  out, 
by  stretching  out  a  rope  from  end  to  end  of  the  ham- 
mock, over  which  the  poncho  is  thrown  at  oblique 
angles,  and  then  tied  securely  to  the  rope.  Under  it 
the  traveller  may  now  defy  the  storm,  and  even  Old 
Boreas  himself,  as  the  stronger  the  tent  is  impelled  to 
and  fro,  the  more  lulling  to  the  sleeper  will  be  the 
motion  imparted  to  it  from  the  outside. 

It  is  surprising  to  sec  a  horse  of  so  small  stature  as 
those  from  the  Llanos  generally  are,  carry  on  his 
back  both  the  weight  of  the  rider  and  his  ponderous 
equipment  for  such  considerable  distances ;  but  the 
fiict  is,  that  the  loads  are  so  well  distributed  and 
counterbalanced,  that  the  animals  feel  no  material  in- 
convenience therefrom. 


rirAiTF.K  II. 


Eaim.y  the  next  moriiinfr  wc  were  aroused  by  the 
trainjtling  of  Lorscs  niul  tinkliii*;  of  6tirnij>s  close  to 
onr  resting  places,  apprising  us  that  the  hour  of  de- 
parture was  near  at  hand.  To  travel  with  comfort  in 
those  hot  regions,  it  is  necessary  to  make  the  most  of 
the  absence  of  the  sun,  before  its  rays  descend  to  the 
earth  in  glowing  streams,  parching  the  body  and 
spirits  of  the  traveller.  Our  peoj>le,  therefore,  com- 
menced to  saddle  and  load  as  early  as  three  o'clock 
A.  M.  Tlie  operation  usually  occupied  considerable 
time,  as  each  animal  had  to  be  hunted  in  the  dark,  as 
well  as  its  accoutrements.  The  baggage  mules,  espe- 
cially, required  more  than  ordinary  skill  in  rcj>lacing 
and  adjusting  the  loads  upon  their  backs  by  means  of  a 
hundred  turns  of  the  hizos,  or  raw-hide  halters.  And 
even  after  the  greatest  i»recautions,  the  vicious  creatures 
endeavored  to  (lisj>lace  their  loads  by  running  against 
each  other  or  rolling  on  the  ground,  to  the  inconceiv- 
able disgust  of  the  drivers,  who  were  often  compelled 
to  alight  from  their  sumpters  to  jait  things  to  right  . 

Our  road  lay  this  <lay  across  a  wild  and  desolal* 
valley,  presenting  the  appearance  of  having  once  been 


THE    MORKOS  17 

the  scene  of  violent  convulsions  of  nature,  judging 
from  the  distorted  masses  of  granite  and  gneiss  piled 
along  the  route.  The  morning,  thougii  moonless,  was 
bright  with  stars,  which  in  those  latitudes  sj^arkle  like 
diamoiuls  in  a  setting  of  azure.  The  air  was  balmy  ; 
and  the  solitude  of  the  spot,  only  broken  by  the  occa- 
sional shriek  of  a  night  owl,  or  the  refreshing  murmur 
of  a  mountain  stream,  was  truly  sublime. 

Slowly  winding  our  course  down  the  rugged  sides 
of  a  deep  ravine,  we  came  suddenly  in  view  of  a  most 
glorious  spectacle.  The  delicate  tints  of  dawn  were 
already  gilding  the  rugged  crest  of  the  distant  moun- 
tains ;  above  these  rose  in  silent  grandeur  what  ap- 
peared at  first  a  heavy  cloud  of  an  intense  blue,  the 
irregular  outlines  of  which  set  in  bold  relief  against 
the  transparent  sky,  forming  the  background  to  the 
picture.  I  eagerly  spurred  my  mule  forward  to  gain 
an  eminence  from  whence  I  could  contemplate  more 
advantageously  that  magnificent  spectacle,  when,  to 
my  great  astonishment,  I  discovered  that,  what  I  had 
supposed  a  cloud,  was  in  fact  the  famous  promontory 
known  as  the  Morros  de  San  Juan,  the  singular  con- 
formation of  which  has  given  rise  to  many  specula- 
tions and  legendary  dissertations  on  the  part  of  sa- 
vants and  others  less  versed  in  scientific  researches. 
AVlien  the  sun  rose  above  the  horizon,  a  more  extra- 
ordinary scene  was  never  unfolded  to  the  eye  of  the 
spectator.  The  huge  and  rugged  mountain,  some 
thousand  feet  high,  stood  in  the  midst  of  a  desolate 
gulf,  apparently  of  volcanic  origin  ;  while  the  vege- 
tation, stunted  and  scrubby  for  want  of  adequate 
nourishment,  contrasted  singularly  with  the  granite 


Is  TKAVELS   AND   ADVKNTrRES. 

massc-^  licattrred  all  over  tlic  vallev.  Tlie  meandering 
rivuUt  ol'  l.u  PiK-rta,  twice  tlie  nceuo  of  sanguiuarv 
conllii-tb  Itetwccn  patriots  and  Sj»aniards,  tliroadcd  its 
si>arkling  way  throu<;li  that  Valley  of  Death,  to  mix 
it8  waters  with  those  of  the  heautiful  Guarieo  in  the 
dibtanee.  In  both  of  those  engagen\ents  the  arms  of 
S}>aiii  were  victorious ;  but,  as  often  haj)|>ened  in 
those  days  of  tjutrra  a  imu't'ti\  the  victors  eteei»ed 
their  laurels  in  the  blood  of  the  vanijuished  with 
unsjuiring  hand.  These  triumphs  were  shared  alter- 
nately by  the  monster  liovcs  and  the  sanjjuinary 
Morillo.  It  would  be  ditlicult  to  lind  two  more 
blooily  wretches  than  thcso  myrmidons  of  despotism, 
whose  very  names  are  to  this  day  the  avenfi^ing  cry 
against  the  race  frf)m  which  they  both  sprang.  The 
forces  opposed  to  them  in  those  engagements  hardly 
amounted  to  one-half  their  own  numbers ;  but  the 
patriots  under  Bolivar,  accepted  tlic  battle  with  the 
despair  of  men  who  have  no  alternative  between 
death  and  an  ignominious  yoke.  It  is  asserted  that 
tlic  rivulet  became,  on  both  occasions,  completely 
glutted  with  the  goro  and  dead  bodies  of  the  van- 
fpiishcd.  !Morillo  had  a  very  narrow  cscajic  from  the 
lance  of  the  famous  Juan  Pablo  Farfan,  who  delibe- 
rately attacked  the  Spanish  chieftain  in  the  midst 
of  his  staff.  Although  the  bold  Llancro  succeeded 
in  piercing  the  groin  of  the  Spaniard  with  his  lance, 
the  wound  was  not  sufficiently  deep  to  cause  liis 
death. 

The  rugged  crest  of  the  mountain  surrounded  by 
an    atmosphere    resplcndently    clear,    the   wild    and 


TllK    MORROS. 


19 


shattered  rocks,  piled  like  the  giant  skeletons  of  an 
extinct  race,  together  with  the  painful  associations 
connected  with  the  spot,  made  an  impression  upon 
my  mind  not  easily  forgotten. 

Although  I  had  often  experienced  a  keen  desire 
to  see  this  natural  M'onder  of  my  country,  I  could  not 
repress  a  feeling  of  regret  at  the  recollection  of  the 
sangninary  scenes  enacted  on  this  spot,  and  that  my 
Urst  impressions  of  astonishment  should  he  replaced 
by  others  of  a  less  pleasing  character. 

On  awakening  from  tlie  reverie  into  which  the 
scene  had  plunged  me,  I  perceived  for  the  first  time 
that  I  was  alone,  my  less  contemplative  companions 
having  proceeded  on  their  journey  while  I  was  ab- 
sorbed in  wonder.  I  felt  glad  of  my  solitude,  for  the 
very  silence  seemed  to  breathe  a  prayer  to  the  Al- 
mighty for  the  martyred  children  of  Liberty  before 
one  of  his  most  glorious  tcm])les. 


'Jij  iKAVtLS    AM>    ADVKNTIUKS. 

We  rcacljcd  the  village  of  San  Juan  in  time  to 
breakfast  at  the  house  of  our  excellent  friend  Don 
Jom;*  I'ulido,  a  gentleman  of  most  amiahle  and  hop|ii- 
table  di^IK>^ition.  "While  they  j)rei)ared  our  morning 
meal,  I  repaired  to  the  outskirts  of  the  village  to 
tjketeh  the  Morros,  which  from  the  distance  ajijieared 
two  huge  castles  in  ruins.  The  continued  action  of  the 
waters  has  furrowed  the  sides  of  the  mountain — com- 
posed i»rinci]>ally  of  a  jteculiar  limestone — into  many 
fantastic  forms.  The  same  wearing  action  lias  in  like 
manner  perforated  the  calcareous  rock  into  a  thousand 
Buhterrancan  passages  or  chasms  of  fathomless  depth,  it 
being  asserted  by  i)ersons  who  have  ap]»roached  suffi- 
ciently near  the  entrance  of  these  caves,  that  a  bowl- 
dor  rolled  down  the  abyss,  is  never  heard  to  strike 
the  bottom.  I  regretted  exceedingly  that  our  short 
stay  at  this  place  would  not  permit  me  to  visit  the 
interior  of  the  main  entrance  to  these  subterranean 
passages,  no  person  ever  having  ventured  within  the 
dark  abode — as  it  is  ourrontly  believed — of  demons 
and  the  like.  As  a  ])roof  t»f  this  assertion,  the  villa- 
gers point  out  to  the  inquisitive  traveller  a  spring 
issuing  from  that  Tartarus  highly  charged  with  sul- 
pluirated  hydrogen  gas,  the  fumes  of  which  are  in 
themselves  sufticiently  ]>owerful  to  C(tnvcy  the  idea 
that  something  diabolical  must  be  brewing  in  the 
bowels  of  the  stupendous  mountain.  The  spring, 
however,  possesses  highly  medicinal  virtues;  on  this 
account  it  is  «>ften  visited  by  ijivjilids  from  various 
]>arts  of  the  coimtry,  esju'cially  those  aiTected  with 
rheumatic  or  scrofidous  coiiij>laints. 

During  a  heavy  freshet,  the  bones  of  an  antedi- 


TUE    MORROS.  21 

luvian  aniiuiil,  supposed  to  be  those  of  a  mastodon, 
were  disinterred  by  the  torrent  in  the  bed  of  a  ravine. 
A  portion  of  these  bones  were  sent  to  ns  by  our  zeal- 
ous friend  Don  Jose,  as  a  great  curiosity ;  as  such 
they  were  transferred  to  the  Britisli  Minister  at  Ca- 
racas, and  tinally  consigned  by  him  to  the  great 
Museum  in  London. 

The  vilhigo  of  San  Juan  is  likewise  noted  for  its 
nnc  climate  and  the  total  absence  of  epidemics.  In- 
valids aflected  with  pulmonary  complaints  Und  there 
also  an  air  and  temperature  most  congenial.  Beyond 
these  advantages,  San  Juan  offers  no  other  attrac- 
tions to  the  stranger  capable  of  inducing  a  longer 
sojourn  than  is  absolutely  necessary,  as  not  even  a 
ranch  has  been  raised  there  for  the  convenience  of 
those  seeking  its  beneficent  waters. 

After  partaking  of  a  substantial  l)reakfast,  com- 
posed of  the  most  popular  dishes  of  the  country,  such 
as  came  fi'ita^  saneoeho^  and  some  delicious  fish  from 
the  river  Guarico,  we  bade  adieu  to  our  estimable 
host,  Don  Jose,  and  continued  our  journey  down  the 
stony  bottom  of  a  narrow  quehrada  or  ravine,  noted 
for  its  many  windings,  and  the  quantities  of  sharp 
stones  that  pave  the  way  ;  these  are  evidently  the 
detached  fragments  of  the  basaltic  formation  consti- 
tuting the  base  of  the  Morros.  At  Florcs,  a  miser- 
able country  inn  like  all  the  rest  along  this  route,  we 
stopped  a  few  moments  to  refresh  ourselves  with 
ffuarajyo,  a  kind  of  cider  made  from  the  juice  of  sugar 
cane,  or  by  dissolving  jKtJK'^oti  in  water  and  allowing 
it  to  ferment  for  a  few  days.  The  guarapo  of  Flores 
is  celebrated  throughout  the  country,  and  no  person 


23  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES. 

passing  thiouirli  this  |iliue  ever  omits  to  cnll  tor  it. 
AVIuMi  iiu.\i<l  with  a;;uarilieiile,  it  forms  what  is 
tcrmc<l  <v//v/A//i«^  (carbine  ;)  the  effects  rarely  fail  to 
kiiofk  down  those  wh(»  ra.-hly  brave  its  lire. 

Our  next  6toj»i»iii;^  ithu-e  was  the  village  of  Ortiz, 
a  little  beyond  that  of  Parapara.  Taken  to<retlier, 
they  mifxht  be  considered  as  the  Pillars  of  Her- 
cules to  the  grassy  Mediterranean  of  the  Llanos,  and 
the  terminus  of  civilized  pursuiti>  in  that  (juarter,  jis 
there  you  lind  the  last  vestiges  of  agriculture  and  the 
useful  arts.  In  addition  to  small  patches  of  sugar 
cane  and  Indian  corn  raised  by  the  inhabitants  for 
their  own  consumjttion,  they  excel  in  the  manufac- 
ture of  leather,  saddles,  and  their  ai)i»urtenances, 
which  they  sell  to  all  parts  of  the  country.  Beyond 
this,  nothing  is  to  be  met  with  but  wild  herds  of 
cattle  grazing  on  prairies  or  steppes  of  vast  extent, 
with  the  exception  of  the  narrow  belt  of  park-like 
Kcenery  intervening  between  these  and  a  ridge  of  low, 
rocky  hills — fjuhrax — wliich  skirts  the  ancient  shore 
of  the  irreat  basin  of  tliosc  pampas.  Tlie  gahras  were 
doul)th'ss  the  natural  ramj>art  of  that  extniordinary 
body  «»f  waters  which,  at  some  remote  c])Och,  must 
liave  filled  the  sjiace  now  forming  the  grazing 
grounds  of  Venezuela,  as  attestetl  by  the  nature  of 
the  soil  and  the  organic  remains  found  imbedded  in 
the  clay. 

I  noticed  at  Ortiz  the  sajuo  trap  formation  of  the 
Morros,  with  extensive  beds  of  basaltic  slate  ]»rotrud- 
ing  through  the  sides  of  the  hills.  Entire  colutnns 
of  this  slate,  varying  from  four  to  five  feet  in  length 
by  6i.\  inches  diameter,  are  used  in  the  village  for 


THE  MOUROS.  23 

paving  the  thresholds  of  houses,  their  quadrangular 
form  ada}tting  them  })erfeetly  for  this  purpose  with- 
out any  additional  lahor  after  being  detaehed  from 
the  rock.  The  action  of  the  waters  during  the  untold 
lapse  of  ages,  or  ])erhaps  the  irruptions  of  the  sea  it- 
self when  it  beat  against  the  sides  of  tlie  liills,  has 
caused  the  partial  disintegration  of  the  rock  in  many 
places,  and  scattered  the  debris  far  and  wide  over 
the  surrounding  country.  Kcvertheless,  vegetation 
seemed  nowhere  aflected  in  the  least  by  this  vast  ac- 
cumulation of  loose  stones ;  on  the  contrary,  wher- 
ever it  was  favored  by  the  depressions  of  the  ground, 
trees  of  large  dimensions,  noted  for  hardness  and  du- 
rability, sprang  up,  forming  dense  forests  on  either 
side  of  the  road.  Foremost  in  the  long  catalogue  of 
splendid  timber  trees  of  Venezuela,  we  found  there 
growing  in  great  perfection  the  Vera,  or  Lignum 
Vitse — Zigophylum  arboreum — the  wood  of  which  is 
so  hard  that  it  turas  the  edge  of  the  best-tempered 
tools ;  breaking  or  splitting  it  seems  equally  impos- 
sible, on  account  of  the  interweaving  of  its  fibres, 
which  cross  each  other  in  diagonal  layers.  This  tree 
has  a  wide  range  over  the  country,  especially  near 
the  sea-coast,  which  circumstance  renders  it  extremely 
useful  in  the  construction  of  wharves,  as  well  as  for 
the  keels  of  ships ;  the  attacks  of  the  teredo  or  sea- 
worm  are  futile  upon  the  iron  network  of  its  fibres, 
on  which  account  it  can  remain  under  water  for  an 
indefinite  period  and  eventually  become  petrified. 
Tlie  useful  Giiayacan  or  guaiacum  of  the  arts,  a  nearly 
allied  species  of  this  tree,  is  also  found  here  in  the 
greatest  abundance  ;  unfortunately  it  is  too  short  to  be 


24  IKWM.S    AMI    AU\L.MlK^->. 

employed  fur  the  sniue  purposes  as  the  former ;  it 
fiiuU,  Ijowever,  numenuis  applications  in  naval  con- 
Btriicliun,  ejJ])coinlIy  for  blocks  and  jtullcys  for  the 
ri^;;in;X  of  vessfls.  Turners  emi»loy  it  likewise  for 
various  articles  requirinj;  extreme  hardness  and  :i 
close  prain. 

Tiie  Alronuxjue^  a  most  beautiliil  tree,  somewhat 
rcscmblini?  the  American  elm,  and  scarcely  inferior 
to  the  foregoiiii:,  raises  here  its  graceful  head  above 
the  rest,  atlortlin^  the  cattle  a  permanent  shade  even 
durinj;  the  driest  seasons.  It  must  n(»t  be  confounded, 
liowever,  with  the  well-known  Spanish  oak — Quercus 
suber — which  yields  the  cork  of  commerce.  It  is 
larfjely  employe<l  in  the  Llanos  in  the  construction  of 
houses  an<l  fences.  Braziletto  wood — Cesalpinia  bra- 
ziletto-^so  celebrated  for  its  beautiful  dye,  is  so  abun- 
dant here  also,  that  all  the  fences  at  Ortiz  and  Para- 
para  are  made  of  this  valuable  dyewood. 

The  list  of  useful  trees  peculiar  to  this  rejrion 
could  be  extended  beyond  the  limits  of  this  chapter, 
were  it  not  for  the  fear  of  taxin^r  the  patience  of  my 
reader  with  an  abstract  nomenclature.  I  cannot  pass 
unnoticed,  however,  two  other  trees  of  no  less  impor- 
tance to  the  natives,  on  account  of  their  timber  and 
medicinal  properties  ;  these  are  the  Tacamahaca — 
K!a]»hrium  toiiientosum — and  the  tree  that  yields  the 
precious  balsam  of  copaiva — Copaifera  officinalis.  By 
making;  incisions  in  the  trunk  and  branches  of  both 
these  trees,  a  resinous  fluid,  possessing;  preat  hcalinL' 
jiowers  when  a]>])lied  to  M-ounds  and  other  ailnuiits 
of  the  flesh,  is  obtaine<l  in  ^reat  a]>un<lance  and  col- 
Ip.'fr'd  iti  fin  i>iii^  Til.-ir.'d  iiTid<T  tli..  jncisions.     Tho. 


THE    MORROS.  25 

former  is  particularly  abuiidiiiit  in  the  province  of 
Guuyana,  nvIiliu  it  attains  to  great  dimensions.  Its 
resin,  an  opaque,  lemon-colored  snbstance  resembling 
wax,  is  very  fragrant,  and  when  mixed  with  that  of 
Caraha  or  Alfjatroha,  forms  excellent  torches  which 
burn  with  great  brilliancy,  and  emit  a  delicious  odor. 
The  bark  is  also  remarkable  as  aifording  a  material 
similar  to  that  employed  by  the  North  American  In- 
dians in  the  construction  of  their  canoes,  and  used 
similarly  by  their  brethren  of  the  Orinoco  for  their 
light  pirogues.  "With  this  object  the  Indian  separates 
the  bark  without  breaking,  and  cutting  it  of  the  re- 
quired dimensions,  proceeds  to  join  the  extremities 
by  means  of  hcjiicos  or  slender  vines,  filling  the  inter- 
stices with  a  little  moist  clay  to  throw  off  the  water  ; 
the  whole  is  then  well  bound  with  stronger  vines, 
and  a  couple  or  more  sticks  are  affixed  between  the 
borders  of  the  pirogue  to  prevent  its  collapsing 
when  launched  into  the  broad  stream. 


CIIAITKH  III. 


L  L  A   N  O  S  . 


Wl  left  Oitu  as  usual,  very  early  the  next  morn- 
ing, stumbling  liere  and  there  amidst  the  mass  of  loose 
stones  "svhieh  paved  the  way  all  along  the  winding 
bed  of  the  quchrada.  In  projKirtion  as  we  advaneed 
on  our  route,  the  hills  decreased  in  size,  while  the 
loose  stones  seemed  to  increase  in  quantity.  The 
si)lendid  groves  of  hardy  and  balsamilerous  trees, 
which  near  Ortiz  formed  an  almost  impenetrable  for- 
est, gradually  became  less  imi>osing  in  appearance, 
until  they  were  rejdaccd  by  thickets  of  thorny  bushes, 
chiefly  composed  of  several  species  of  mimosas,  with 
a  delicate  and  feathery  foliage.  The  traveller  accus- 
tomed to  the  shade  of  a  luxuriant  vegetation,  and  to 
the  sight  of  cultivated  valleys,  is  struck  by  the  rapid 
diminution  of  the  former,  and  the  total  disappearance 
of  the  latter,  as  he  emerges  from  the  Galeras  of  Ortiz  : 
yet  he  is  soluewhat  compunsjited  by  the  almost  over- 
powering/vr/'?/r/jf'  shed  by  masses  of  the  canary -<'olored 
blossoms  with  which  these  shrubs  arc  loaded,  from  the 


TUE    LLANOS.  27 

summits  down  to  the  beiuling  branches  tliut  trail  the 
ground  at  every  passing  breeze. 

Suddenly  \vc  entered  a  -widely-extended  tract  of 
level  land  almost  destitute  of  vegetation.  "With  the 
exception  of  a  few  clumps  of  palm-trees  with  fan-like 
leaves,  nothing  but  short  grass  covered  its  entu-e  sur- 
tace,  almost  realizing  the  idea  of  "  an  ocean  covered 
with  sea-weed."  A  dense  mass  of  vapor  pervading 
the  atmosphere  obscured  the  horizon,  while  the  fan- 
palms,  seen  from  afar,  appeared  like  ships  enveloped 
in  a  fog.  Gradually  the  circle  of  the  heavens  seemed 
to  close  around  us,  until  we  became,  as  it  were,  en- 
compassed by  the  sky,  AVe  were,  in  fact,  treading 
the  shores  of  the  great  basin  of  the  Llanos,  over  one 
of  the  ancient  shoals  or  Mcsas^  which,  like  successive 
terraces,  now  form  the  borders  of  those  grassy  oceans 
known  as  the  Pampas.  This  was  the  Mesa  de  Paya, 
the  seat  of  one  of  the  cattle-farms  to  which  we  were 
bound. 

After  wandering  for  nearly  three  hours  over 
this  monotonous  landscape  ■without  compass,  and 
guided  only  by  certain  landmarks  known  to  the 
vaqiieanos,  we  came  unexpectedly  upon  the  borders 
of  the  Mesa,  which  commands  an  extensive  view  of 
the  lower  savannas.  As  if  by  magic  the  dreary  scene 
changed  to  one  of  the  most  glorious  panoramas  in 
existence.  At  our  feet  lay  a  beautiful  expanse  of 
meadow,  fresh  and  smooth  as  the  best  cultivated 
lawn,  with  troops  of  horses  and  countless  herds  of 
cattle  dispersed  all  over  the  plain.  Several  glitter- 
ing ponds,  alive  with  all  varieties  of  aquatic  birds, 
reflected  upon  their  limpid  surface  the  broad-leaved 


Og  'iiiA\M->    AM)   AUVENTURES. 

crowns  of  tlio  fan-palms,  towering  above  verdant 
groves  of  laurel,  aniyris,  and  ehn-like  roUts.  Furtiier 
beyond,  and  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  the  undu- 
latin*;  j)hiin  ai»j)eared  like  a  j)etritied  ocean,  after  the 
6weej>in^  tempest. 

lUit  I  feel  that  my  descriptions  fall  nhort  of  the 
reality,  and  that  I  am  unable  to  dcjiiet  the  harmo- 
nious elfects  of  lii^ht  and  shade,  an<l  the  blending  of 
the  various  tints  of  green,  blue  and  juirple,  dispersed 
over  this  extensive  panorama  ;  the  gentle  undulations 
of  the  plain  ;  the  towering  palms  gracefully  fanning 
the  glowing  atmosphere  with  their  majestic  crowns 
of  broad  and  shining  leaves;  and  myriad  other  beau- 
tics  dillioult  to  enumerate. 

1  could  scarcely  tear  myself  away  from  the  sjxtt, 
so  fascinated  was  I  with  the  novelty  t>f  the  scene. 
My  companions,  more  concerned  for  the  spct^ly  termi- 
nation of  the  journey  than  the  beautiful  in  nature, 
set  (ttr  at  a  brisk  trot  towards  the  house,  which  was 
at  no  great  distance.  Fearing  to  lose  my  way  among 
the  intricate  jiaths  leading  to  it,  I  was  compelled  to 
follow  in  their  wake,  6topj)ing  occasionally  to  gaze 
once  more  upon  those  enchanting  groves,  which 
seemed  to  return  me  to  the  highly  cultivated  fields 
and  green  me.idows  of  glorious  "Old  Kngland." 
whence  I  had  just  returned. 

On  descending  to  the  plain  below,  my  attention 
was  attracted  to  an  unsiglitly  group  of  palm-thatched 
huts,  looking  more  like  huge  bee-hives  than  the 
abode  of  human  bi-ings.  A  formidable  fence  of  palm 
trunks  tiurroiinded  the  premises,  and  several  acrc>  of 
ground  beyond.    Tlicse  wire  the  romils.  or  enclo>urcs 


THE    LLANOS.  29 

■vvIktc  the  training  of  the  fierce  herds  was  practised 
by  the  hardy  dwellers  of  the  Llanos  ;  l)iit  no  signs  of 
cultivation,  or  aught  else  connected  with  the  rural 
occupations  of  the  fanner,  were  visible  in  the  neigh- 
borhood. Presently  the  cavalcade  stopped  before  the 
gate,  and  all  the  individuals  composing  it  dismounted 
and  began  to  unsaddle  their  horses  amidst  the  bark- 
ing of  a  legion  of  dogs,  and  the  braying  of  all  the 
donkeys  in  the  vicinity. 

This  Avas  the  liato  or  cattle-farm  of  San  Pablo  we 
were  in  quest  of,  famous  in  the  annals  of  the  civil 
wars  in  Venezuela,  as  the  occasional  liead-qnarters 
of  the  constitutional  armies,  commanded  by  the  owner 
of  this  farm.  Our  leader  was  received  at  the  entrance 
of  his  estate,  by  a  grave  and  elderly  negro  slave,  who 
acted  as  overseer,  and  had  nnder  his  control  all  the 
men  and  property  attached  to  it.  Kneeling  npon  the 
stony  court-yard,  he  kissed  the  hand  extended  to  him 
in  friendly  greeting,  after  which  he  proceeded  to  un- 
saddle his- master's  horse,  which  he  led  to  a  pond 
within  the  enclosure,  where  the  horses  were  watered. 

AVe  purposed  remaining  a  few  days  at  San  Pablo, 
with  the  object  of  incorporating  some  fresh  relays  of 
mules  and  horses  from  the  abundant  stock  of  this 
estate :  so  we  of  the  staff  installed  ourselves  under  the 
palm-roof  of  our  rustic  mansion,  while  the  rank  and 
file  of  the  expedition  found  accommodation  in  the 
open  barracoons  adjoining  it ;  although  none  of  the 
l»arty  had  reason  to  boast  of  being  better  oflf  than 
their  neighbor. 

"  It  is  sad  when  pleasing  first  impressions  are 
obliterated,"  remarks  a  sentimental  writer  ;  "  always 


30  TUAVEI^  AND  ADVENTUKIIS. 

painful  to  become  desnxchatxir  on  a  more  intimate  ac- 
quuiiitance  with  either  i>coi»le  or  places."  I  soon  found 
that  I  was  not  in  the  fairy  land  1  had  imagineti,  abound- 
ing in  grottos  and  refreshed  by  sparkling  fountains, 
but  in  the  region  of  the  Llanos  where  the  French  adage, 
chacun  jwur  soi  ft  D'u  n  pour  tous,  is  verilied  to  its 
fullest  extent.  San  Paiilo,  with  its  vaunted  i>rettige, 
and  in  spite  of  its  pro.ximity  to  several  important 
marts,  was  no  better  provided  witli  aceummodations 
than  the  untidy  douar  of  the  wandering  Arab  of  the 
Desert.  A  rickety  table  standing  against  the  wall 
for  fear  of  tumbling  down,  two  or  three  clumsy  cedar 
chairs  covered  witli  raw-hide,  and  a  coui>le  of  grass 
hammocks,  serving  the  double  purpose  of  beds  and 
lounges,  constituted  all  the  funiiturc  of  the  great 
farm.  As  a  substitute  for  wardrobes  and  hat-stands, 
we  were  shown  a  number  of  deer-antlers  and  bull- 
horns imbedded  in  the  walls  of  reeds  and  mud,  on 
which  to  hang  our  pouches,  bridles,  «S:c.  I  searched  in 
vain,  on  our  arrival,  for  something  like  a  bowl  in 
which  to  lave  my  hands  and  face,  covered  with  dust 
and  parched  by  the  broiling  sun  of  the  savannas. 
Even  water  was  so  scarce  that  it  was  servetl  to  us 
sparingly  from  a  large  calaba.sh  gourd  used  in  bring- 
ing it  from  the  river,  nearly  a  mile  distant.  It  is  true 
there  was,  within  the  enclosure  of  the  houses,  a  pond 
or  excavation,  made  while  searching  for  the  remains 
of  a  brave  ofticer  who  fell  fighting  for  his  country's 
freedom.  Sufticient  water  liad  accumulated  there 
during  the  rainy  season  to  entitle  it  to  the  name  of 
Laguna^  or  Lake  of  (Jenaro  Vazquez,  the  name  of 
the  aforc-mentioned  hero;  but  it  was  so  filled  with 


TUE   LLANOS.  3I 

Bavas — a  small  species  of  alligator, — terrapins,  and 
toads,  as  to  render  the  water  nndrinkablc. 

But  to  return  to  our  head-quarters,  the  structure 
of  which  struck  me  so  forcibly  at  first  as  a  bee-hive 
of  vast  proportions,  naturally  suggesting  the  idea  of  a 
"  land  of  milk  and  honey."  Unfortunately  neither 
of  these  could  be  obtained  either  for  love  or  money, 
although  the  woods  and  pastures  of  the  estate 
abounded  in  both  the  creatures  that  produced  them. 
So  we  were  compelled  to  resort  to  our  reserved  stock 
of  iMpdoii  to  sweeten  our  coffee,  and  to  its  own  de- 
licious natural  aroma  in  the  place  of  milk.  As  to 
the  house  itself,  it  only  differed  from  the  rest  in  that 
region  in  being  larger,  and  perhaps  in  better  order 
than  are  the  generality.  Imagine  a  pyramidal  struc- 
ture, thatched  M'ith  palm  leaves,  the  roof  slanting  to 
within  a  few  feet  of  the  ground,  and  supported  on  stout 
posts  of  live  timber,  which  served  also  as  framework 
for  the  walls,  and  you  will  have  some  idea  of  the  style 
of  architecture  peculiar  to  the  country^  Doors  and  win- 
dows are  of  no  account  in  a  country  uniformly  warm 
throughout  the  year,  and  where  the  inhabitants  pos- 
sess few  articles  capable  of  tempting  the  cupidity  of 
light-fingered  gentry.  Therefore,  an  ox-hide  stretched 
across  the  openings  left  in  the  walls  to  admit  light  and 
the  inmates,  is  all  that  is  required  to  keep  off  unin- 
vited guests.  As  an  exception  to  this  rule,  our  man- 
sion of  San  Pablo  had  one  or  two  rooms  set  apart  for 
invalids,  provided  with  doors  and  windows  of  solid 
jilanks  of  timber  in  the  rough  ;  the  other  apartments 
had  the  upper  half  of  the  walls  purposely  left  open, 
to  admit  full  and  free  entrance  of  liffht  and  air.     A 


32  TRAVELS  AND   ADVENTURES. 

narrow  jiiazza  or  corridor,  foniud  by  thf  tlantinf;  of 
the  roof  to  N\  itliiii  five  feet  of  tla-  j;rowi»d,  ran  aloii^  the 
entire  K-n^th  of  the  main  buihling,  and  was  intended 
more  as  u  ])roteetion  to  tlie  rooms  against  the  tun  and 
rains,  tlian  as  a  resort  for  the  inmates. 

Tlie  first  htep,  on  arriving,  was  to  j^eonrc  a  jtlace  in 
the  oj)en  reception  room,  for  my  own  chattels  and 
Iiammock,  betbre  all  the  s|»are  posts  and  hooks  had 
been  api)ropriated  by  my  eomj)anions.  lliis  accom- 
plished, I  proceeded  to  a  thorough  examination  of  n)y 
saddle  and  its  accoutrements,  so  as  to  have  them 
adapted  to  the  peculiar  mode  of  travelling  in  the 
Llanos.  This  care  I  left  to  the  good  judgment  of  our 
attendants,  not  being  myself  sutlicieiitly  skilled  in  the 
art  of  mending,  greasing,  and  jmtting  in  order  the 
complicated  gear  of  our  riding  equipment.  In  the 
same  predicament  were  also  my  two  Englihh  com- 
panions, and  our  worthy  doctor;  a  kind  word,  how- 
ever, addressed  to  the  good-natured  IJaneros — espe- 
cially if  accompanied  with  a  drop  of  aguardiente — 
never  failed  of  enlisting  their  services  in  our  favor. 

Habit,  as  well  as  necessity,  is  sometimes  the 
mother  of  invention,  as  my  experience  soon  taught 
me  that,  to  get  along  in  my  new  quarters,  it  woidd  be 
re(|uisite  to  set  a.-^idc  the  airs  and  in^ignia  <if  civiliza- 
tion. Divesting  myself,  therefore,  of  all  such  sr.]  er- 
fluities  as  coat,  cravat,  pants,  and  shoes,  I  adopted  the 
less  cundirous  attire  of  the  Llaneros,  consisting  nuiinly 
of  breeches  tightly  buttoned  at  the  knee,  and  a  loo.'^e 
sliirt,  usually  of  a  bright  checkered  ]>attern.  Sh<  > 
are  altogether  dispensed  with  in  a  country  like  il  i 
Llanos,  subject  to  drenching  rains,  and  covered  with 


THE    LLANOS.  33 

mud  dunng  a  great  portion  of  the  year,  besides  the 
inconvenience  they  offer  to  the  rider  in  holding  tlie 
stirrnp  securely  when  in  chase  of  wild  animals.  Tlie 
leg,  however,  is  well  protected  from  the  thorns  and 
cutting  grass  of  the  savannas  by  a  neat  legging  or 
hotin,  made  of  buffskin,  tightly  buttoned  down  the 
calf  by  knobs  or  studs  of  highly  polished  silver. 
Another  characteristic  article  of  dress,  and  one  in 
which  the  wearers  take  great  pride,  is  the  linen  check- 
ered handkerchief,  loosely  worn  around  the  head.  Its 
object  is  ostensibly  to  protect  it  from  the  intensity  of 
the  sun's  rays  ;  but  the  constant  habit  of  wearing  it 
has  rendered  the  handkerchief  as  indispensable  a  head- 
dress to  the  Llaneros  as  is  the  cravat  to  the  neck  of 
the  city  gentleman. 

One  angle  of  the  building  was  devoted  to  the 
kitchen,  and  rooms  for  the  overseer  and  his  family ; 
the  other  was  set  apart  for  a  store-room,  suggesting 
hidden  treasures  of  good  things  for  the  comfort  of  the 
inner  man.  Being  naturally  inquisitive,  I  lost  no 
time  in  investigating  the  contents  of  the  hodega  ;  but 
instead  of  sweetmeats,  fresh  cheese,  or  even  bread 
and  butter, — articles  of  easy  manufacture  in  the 
Llanos,  on  which  I  had  feasted  my  imagination, — I 
found  the  place  filled  with  roaches,  pack-saddles,  old 
bridles,  lazos,  and  tasajo  or  jerked  beef.  Tliis  last  is 
prepared  by  cutting  fresh  beef  into  long  strips,  and 
exposing  them  to  dry  in  the  sun,  first  rubbing  them 
thoroughly  with  salt.  Animal  substances  spoil  so 
readily  in  tropical  climates,  that  unless  this  precau- 
tion is  taken  immediately  after  a  bullock  is  slaughter- 
ed, the  meat  becomes  tainted  in  a  short  time.  Two 
2* 


m  TRAVELS  AND  ADVEXTCRCS. 

or  three  days'  exposure  to  the  hot  sun  of  the  Llanos, 
is  eiijfieu  tit  \o  render  the  beef  as  dry  and  tough  as 
leather ;  in  this  state,  it  may  be  stored  away  for  six 
months  without  spoiling.  The  older  the  better ;  age 
imparting  to  it  that  peculiar  rank  flavor  which  makes 
tasajo  so  highly  jirized  by  people  of  all  ranks  in  Cuba 
and  other  "West  India  Islands.  Large  shi]>mcnts  of 
this  beef  have  been  made  from  Venezuela  to  those 
places  ;  but  the  competition  of  Buenos  Ayres  has  re- 
duced of  late  the  ]»rofits  arising  from  this  branch  of 
our  exports.  The  manner  of  killing  and  (juartering  an 
animal  in  the  Llanos  deserves  ]>:irtieular  mention. 
The  cattle  being  usually  some  distance  from  the  house, 
two  horsemen  arc  <lespatched  after  the  victim  ;  one 
of  them  gallops  close  to  the  animal's  rear,  and  throw- 
ing his  unerring  lazo  at  its  head,  drags  it  along,  while 
Ins  companion  urges  it  on  by  means  of  his  garrocha 
or  goad,  until  they  reach  the  sacrificial  post  :  one  or 
twt»  turns  of  the  lazo  around  this,  bring  the  animal 
close  to  the  hoialou  •  the  matador  then  i)lunges  the 
point  of  his  dagger  into  the  vertebra*  back  of  the  head, 
and  the  struggling  beast  drops  as  if  struck  by  .in  elec- 
tric spark  :  a  second  thnist  of  the  l)loody  dagircr  into 
his  throat  severs  the  artery,  and  the  blood  gushes  in 
torrents  through  the  wound  from  every  part  of  his 
body.  Tlic  prostrate  victbn  is  now  turned  upon  its 
back,  and  a  long  incision  made  lengthwise  of  the 
belly.  ])reparatory  to  flaying  and  cutting  up  the  car- 
cass. When  the  animal  is  not  intended  to  be  imme- 
diately slaughtered,  he  is  tied  to  the  post  by  a  succes- 
sion of  coils  from  the  lazo  around  his  bonis,  and  left 
there  until  the  fatal  moment  conies  to  despatch  hi  in. 


THE    LLANOS.  35 

One  ni<;-ht  I  was  awakened  by  a  terrific  bellowing 
proceeding  from  the  hotahm  ;  but,  as  I  knew  there  was 
no  bulloek  there  for  slaughter  at  the  moment,  I  was  at 
a  loss  how  to  account  for  this  uproarious  serenade. 
Curiosity  led  me  to  inquire  into  the  cause,  and  direct- 
ing my  steps  towards  the  spot,  I  beheld  a  group  of 
about  a  dozen  bulls,  smelling  at  the  blood  of  their 
former  companions,  and  ploughing  up  the  gore  with 
their  hoofs,  evidently  in  great  distress.  Tliis  continued 
for  some  time,  until,  finding  their  bewailing  by  moon- 
light rather  too  touching  even  for  artists'  cars,  we  or- 
dered them  to  be  driven  away,  in  spite  of  the  sublimity 
of  the  scene.  I  had  other  opportunities  of  witnessing 
similar  testimonials  of  respect,  whenever  a  herd  of  cat- 
tle approached  the  place  of  execution,  which  never 
failed  to  impress  me  deeply  with  a  feeling  of  compas- 
sion for  their  sorrows. 

Every  morning  an  animal  was  slaughtered  for  us. 
Our  meals  consisted  of  roast  beef,  without  either  vege- 
tables or  wheaten  bread.  Indian  corn  we  had  in  abun- 
dance, both  in  the  grain  and  in  the  husk  ;  but  before 
it  could  be  converted  into  arcpas — the  fiivoritc  bread 
of  the  country — it  required  to  be  passed  through  a 
variety  of  operations  each  day,  which  made  the  pro- 
cess rather  tedious,  as  the  grain  must  first  be  hulled 
by  pounding  it  in  large  wooden  mortars,  adding  a 
handful  of  sand  and  a  little  water :  next  the  grain  must 
be  separated  from  the  chatf,  thoroughly  washed,  and 
tlien  boiled  over  a  slow  fire.  In  doing  this,  care  must 
be  used,  for  if  too  soft  it  will  not  answer  the  purpose. 
Finally  it  is  gi'ound  to  a  paste  between  two  stones, 
formed  into  flat  cakes,  and  baked  in  shallow  pans  of 


3tf 


TUAVEL8   AM)   ADVENTURES. 


earthenwari'.  The  rt'i^uU  of  all  lliis  lab<»r  is  bread 
cxcetMlin^ly  wliitc  and  nourishing  ;  but  it  has  the  dis- 
advantage of  beconiin«r  tough  and  unpalatable  when 
cold.  Inder  the  ]K)puIar  name  oi'  tort  li^as,  this  bread 
is  also  extensively  used  in  Mexico  ainl  Ciitrtl  Amer- 
ica, although  inferior  to  our  own. 


Kven  this  was  considered  a  great  luxurv  at  San 
Pablo,  few  other  eattle-farnis  being  jtrovided  with  the 
necessary  utensils  for  its  manufacture,  and  still  fewer 
the  number  of  those  that  will  grow  suflicient  corn  for 
the  eunsuniption  of  their  inmates.  The  Llaneros  arc 
essentially  a  ])astoral  peojde,  and  trouble  themselves 
luit  little  with  the  cultivation  of  the  land,  considering 
it  rather  derogatory  to  bend  their  heads,  even  to 
mother  Earth.  Hence  their  homes  arc  usually  in  a 
state  of  utter  wretchedness,  being  unprovided  even 


TUE    LLAxXOS.  37 

with  the  coniinoncst  necessaries. .  Althou<:;h  the  hind 
is  extremely  fertik',  and  wouhl  well  repay  the  labor 
with  abundant  crops  of  every  kind  of  grain,  they  do 
not  consider  bread  an  essential,  using  instead  a  piece 
of  boiled  liver,  which  in  their  estimation  answers  just 
as  well.  Therefore  the  divine  command,  "which  en- 
joins us  to  earn  our  daily  bread  by  the  sweat  of  the 
brow,  is  not  much  regarded  by  tliem.  In  the  midst 
of  countless  herds,  and  surrounded  with  the  most 
muniticent  gifts  of  a  bountiful  Providence,  they  are 
often  even  without  fresh  meat ;  not  because  they  arc 
sparing  of  their  cattle,  which  in  that  country  bears  a 
nominal  value,  but  because  they  are  naturally  abste- 
mious ;  and  as  for  milk  and  butter,  they  despise  both 
as  food  only  fit  for  children.  Cheese,  however,  is  a 
favorite  article  of  food  with  them,  and  in  its  })repara- 
tion,  they  display  considerable  ability,  especially  the 
delicious  kind  termed  queso  de  7nanos,  a  species  of 
boiled  cheese.  As  some  of  my  readers  may  wish  to 
experiment  in  making  it,  I  will  give  them  the  recipe. 
Curd  the  milk  in  the  usual  way,  and  boil  the  curd  in 
its  own  whey.  When  about  the  consistency  of  mo- 
lasses candy,  stretch  it  out  repeatedly  with  the  hands 
until  cold.  Add  a  little  salt  to  the  mass  ;  roll  it  into 
flat  cakes,  and  hang  the  cheese  to  drain  in  nets  sus- 
pended from  the  ceiling.  When  pulled,  it  will  sepa- 
rate in  layers  which  look  like  parchment,  retaining 
all  the  flavor  of  the  milk. 

The  cows,  being  half  wild  in  most  cases,  require  to 
be  milked  by  main  force.  To  accomplish  this,  one 
of  the  dairymen  throws  a  noose  around  the  horns  of 
the  animal,  and  holds  it  secure  by  means  of  a  long 


38  TRA>'ELS  AND  ADVENTURES. 

pole  nttacluHl  to  tljc  tlionp,  while  another  proceeils  to 
milk  it  in  the  usual  way  ;  hut  none  will  yield  a  droji. 
unh->s  the  cult'  is  first  ullowud  to  suek  a  little,  ant! 
thfu  tied  to  the  mother's  knee. 

Every  eow  is  distiuiruishetl  by  a  fiiney  name,  gueh 
ns  C'lavi'lliiia,  Flor  dt-l  Campo,  Marahilla,  and  others 
ecjually  eujdionious  and  poetieal.  When  eallcnl  to  hi- 
milke<l,  the  tjime  ones  immediately  answer  in  suj»- 
]>ressed  bellowings,  and  eome  forward  of  their  own  ae- 
eord,  while  the  ealves  eontined  in  the  pen,  on  hearing 
their  mothers'  names,  run  along  the  fenee  in  Feareh  of 
the  gate;  a  hoy,  stationed  there  for  the  ptirpo&r,  lets 
fall  one  of  the  hars,  and  oft'  they  bound  after  the- 
mothers. 

The  men  perform  there  altctgether  the  oerupations 
allotted  to  women  in  other  eountries,  Kueh  as  milking 
the  eows,  eiirding  the  milk,  and  turning  out  the  eheese 
when  ready.  They  do  not  even  disdaiii  eooking  their 
own  food,  and  washing  their  own  garments,  when 
oeeasion  recjuires.  Of  the  women,  I  may  be  ]>cnnit- 
ted  to  quote  here  what  Sir  Franeis  Head,  in  his  quaint 
8tyle,  Bays  with  refercnee  to  those  in  the  Pampas  of 
Buenos  Ayrcs,  as  being  equally  aj»i»li(able  to  their 
twisters  of  the  Llanos:  '*  Tlie  habits  of  the  women  arc 
very  curious :  they  have  literally  nothing  to  do.  thr 
great  ])lains  which  surround  them  oftV-r  no  motive  to 
work,  tlii'y  seldom  ride,  and  t/uir  lives  certainly  arc 
very  indolent  and  inactive.  Tliey  all  have  families, 
however,  whether  married  or  not ;  and  <»nce  when  I 
>  inr[uired  of  a  young  woman  emjdoyed  in  nursing  a 
very  pretty  child,  who  was  the  r-'i'—  <«■  •i>"  '  crin- 
turn,'  she  replied  *  Quicn  sabe  T  " 

•  Joomrr.i  acrotw  the  I'aiuj'X" 


THE    LLANOS.  39 

But  it  is  time  to  introduce  my  reader  to  n  more 
intimate  acquaintance  with  this  singuhvr  race  of  peo- 
ple, whose  numliness,  bravery,  and  skill  in  waging  a 
constant  war,  not  only  with  the  wild  animals  of  the 
field,  but  against  the  proud  legions  of  Iberia,  entitle 
them  to  a  place  among  the  heroes  of  the  earth. 


(•IIAlTKi:    1\'. 

T  II  K        I.  1.  A   X   K  It  O  8  . 

"  DIchoM  m\ttl  qa«  kicanu 
Como  rico  duo  del  Clclo, 
P«ra  dffcndrr  »u  mirlo 
BucD  csbftl^o  y  buvn*  UntiL*' 

—  A  SOLAS. 

TiiK  pco|tlc  iiihuhitin^  tlie  va>t  ivijioii  of  the 
Llanos,  altliough  claiming  descent  from  the  old  Cas- 
tilian  race,  once  the  rulers  of  the  land,  are,  in  fact,  an 
amalgamation  of  the  various  castes  composing  the 
present  population  of  the  Ilepublic.  Tliese  arc,  the 
whites,  or  the  descendants  of  the  European  settlers  of 
the  country  ;  the  aboriginals  i»r  Indians,  and  a  great 
proportion  of  l>huks.  In  most  of  the  t<t\vns  the  native 
whites  preponderate  over  all  others,  and  represent 
the  wealth,  as  well  as  the  most  respectable  portion 
of  the  community  ;  in  the  villages  and  thinly  po]iu- 
latcd  districts  of  the  j)lains,  a  mongrel  breed  result- 
ing from  the  admixture  of  these  three,  constitute  the 
majority  of  the  inhabitants.  Tliesc  are  dispersed  over 
an  area  of  27,000  6«j[uare  miles,  making  a  proportion 


THE    LLAXEROS.  41 

of  only  fourteen  individuals,  out  of  a  population  of 
390,0U0,  to  every  s(puire  mile. 

This  race,  although  vastly  inferior  to  tlie  first  in 
mental  eai)acity  and  moral  worth,  is  endowed  M'itli  a 
physitpie  admirably  adapted  to  endure  the  fatigues 
of  a  life  beset  with  dangers  and  hardships.*  Cast 
upon  a  wild  and  apparently  interminable  plain,  the 
domain  of  savage  beasts  and  poisonous  reptiles,  their 
lot  has  been  to  pass  all  their  life  in  a  perpetual  strug- 
gle, not  only  with  the  primitive  possessors  of  the 
land,  but  with  the  elements  themselves,  often  as 
fierce  as  they  are  grand.  When  it  is  not  the  alarm 
of  the  dreaded  viper  or  the  spotted  jaguar,  it  is  the 
sudden  inroad  of  vast  inundations,  which,  spreading 
with  fearful  ra[)idity  over  the  land,  sweep  off  in  one 
moment  their  frail  habitations  and  their  herds. 
Xevertheless,  this  insecure  existence,  this  continual 

•  Mons.  do  Lavavcsse,  in  his  interesting  work  on  Venezuela,  makes 
Borae  pertinent  remarks  on  this  siibject  worthy  of  the  eonsideration  and 
study  of  K>arned  physiologists.  "  Wliy  is  it,"'  he  say.«,  "  that  individuals 
proceeding  from  a  mixture  of  African  and  indigenous  American  blood, 
have  greater  strength,  finer  forms,  more  intellectual  faculties  and  moral 
energy,  than  the  Negro  or  Indian  ?  Why,  although  the  white  be,  in  gen- 
eral, superior  in  strength  of  body,  mental  powers,  and  in  moral  force,  to 
the  aboriginal  American  and  to  the  negro — why,  I  ask,  are  the  individ- 
uals born  of  the  union  of  a  white  with  an  Indian  woman,  (the  Mestizo!?, 
for  instance,)  inferior  in  mental  and  corporeal  qualities  to  the  Zambos? 
Why  are  the  Mestizos  generally  distinguished  by  finer  figures,  agreeable 
countenances,  and  in  mildness  and  docility  of  their  dispositions?  Why 
is  the  mulatto,  son  of  a  white  and  a  negress,  superior  to  the  Zambo  in  in- 
tellectual faculties,  but  his  inferior  in  physical?  Why  is  it,  that  when 
those  races  are  mixed,  their  progeny  is  remarkable  for  a  more  hcalfhy 
and  vigorous  constitution,  and  for  more  vital  energy,  than  the  individuaU 
born  in  the  same  climate  of  iudigcuous  European  or  Al'ricou  blood,  wiih- 
out  mixture  ?  " 


42  TUAYELS  AND   ADVENTUUES. 

ptnifrjj.c  between  life  and  death,  between  rude  intel- 
lect and  matter,  has  fur  the  Llanero  a  tort  of  fascina 
tion,  j)erhai)S  not  to  well  underetood  by  people  ]^o:,- 
gessing  the  bhssinj^s  and  ideas  of  civilization,  but 
without  which  he  could  not  exist,  egpecially^  tie-- 
prived  of  his  horse  and  cast  among  the  mountain 
region  north  of  his  cherished  jdains.  Tlie  Modem 
Ccntiiur  of  the  desolate  regions  of  the  Isew  World, 
the  Llanoro  spends  his  life  on  horseback  ;  all  his  ac- 
tions and  exertions  must  be  assisted  l)y  his  horse;  for 
him  the  noblest  ellort  of  man  is,  when  gliding  swiftly 
over  the  boundless  ]»lain  and  bending  over  his  sjiiritcd 
charger,  lie  overturns  an  enemy  or  masters  a  wild 
bull.  The  following  lines  of  Victor  Hugo  seem  :i^ 
though  copied  from  this  model :  "  He  would  not  figl: 
but  on  horseback  ;  he  forms  but  one  pei-son  with  hi» 
horse  ;  he  lives  on  horseback  ;  trades,  buys,  and  sells 
on  horseback  ;  eats,  drinks,  sleej)?,  and  dreams  on 
horseback."  Like  the  Arab,  he  considers  his  horse 
his  best  and  most  reliable  friend  on  earth,  often  de- 
ju-iving  himself  of  rest  and  comfort  after  a  hard  day's 
journey  to  jiiford  his  faithful  companion  abundance 
of  food  and  water.  It  is  not  at  all  surprising,  there- 
fore, to  hear  the  bard — all  Llaneros  are  poets  more  or 
less — exclaim,  after  the  loss  of  both  ln>  wit'<-  mikI  val- 
ued horse : 

Mi  niugcr  y  mi  c.nbnllo 

Se  nic  niuricron  &  »n  ticmpo ; 

QiU'  mnpcr,  ni  «iuo  dcnionio, 

Mi  caliallo  es  lo  que  siunto. 

Mv  wife  ami  my  vnlnod  lionw 
Pied  Ik)|Ii  nt  tt)e  mune  time; 
To  Uic  devil  with  my  wife, 
For  my  horse  do  I  repine. 


^ 


THE   LLANEROS.  43 

Few  people  in  the  M'orld  arc  better  riders  tlian 
the  Llancros  of  Yeiiezucla,  if  we  except  perhaps  the 
Gtiuchos  of  Buenos  Ayres,  or  equal  to  either  in  the 
dexterity  they  display  in  the  wonderful  feats  of  horse- 
manship, to  which  their  occupations  in  the  field  in- 
ure thetn  from  childhood.  Their  horses,  moreover, 
are  so  well  trained  to  the  various  evolutions,  of  their 
profession,  that  animal  and  rider  seem  to  possess  but 
one  existence. 

The  life  of  the  Llanero,  like  that  of  the  Gauclio 
his  prototy])e,  is  singularly  interesting,  and  resembles 
in  many  respects  that  of  others  who,  like  them,  have 
their  abode  in  the  midst  of  extensive  plains.  Thus 
they  have  been  aptly  styled  the  Cossacks  and  the 
Arabs  of  the  New  World,  with  both  of  whom  they 
have  many  points  in  common,  but  more  especially  do 
they  resemble  the  last  named.  AVhen  visiting  the 
famous  Constantine  Gallery  of  paintings  at  Versailles, 
I  was  struck  with  the  resemblance  of  the  Algerine 
heroes  of  Horace  Yernct  with  our  own,  revealing  at 
once  the  Moorish  descent  of  the  latter,  independently 
of  other  characteristic  peculiarities. 

The  iniiiiital)le  author  of  "  Journeys  Across  Tlie 
Pampas,"  already  quoted,  alluding  to  tlie  life  of 
these  wild  shepherds  of  the  plains,  comjiares  it  very 
ap])ropriatcly  to  the  rise  and  progress  of  a  young 
eagle,  so  beautifully  described  by  Horace  in  the 
following  verses  : 

Oliin  juvcntas  ct  patrius  vigor 
Niiliim  lahoriim  propulit  inscinm; 
Vornitnic,  jam  nimbis  rctnotis, 
lusolitos  docuere  nisus 


44  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES. 

Venti  pavcntom  ;  mox  in  orilia 
DtfinUit  liOHtviu  vivitlus  iini>etU!$; 
Nunc  in  rclijclantoh  drucunes 
Egit  aiuur  dapis  nt<|uu  pngna'. 

— IIuUACK,  Book  iv.,  Ode  iv. 

"  Whom  native  vigor,  nnd  the  ru<h 
Of  vouth  liave  ppurrM  to  «init  tlic  nest. 

And  skies)  of  blue,  in  6|iringlidu'd  tlush, 
Entice  ulofl  to  brea>t 
Tlie  galcii  ho  feur'd  before  hi*  lordly  i»luiues  were  drest. 

"  Now  swooping,  eager  for  his  prey, 

Spreads  hav<»c  through  the  flutterM  fold ; 
Strnigiit,  fire<l  by  love  <»f  fmnl  and  fray, 
In  grapple  fierce  and  bold. 
The  htruggling  dragons  rend?,  eVn  in  their  rocky  h»ild." 

— TuAXsi-ATiox  nt  Mautin. 

"  lioni  in  t!i("  ii;<ic  hut,  the  infant  G audio  rvoeives 
little  attention,  but  is  left  to  gwin^  fron)  the  roof  in  a 
bulloek's  hide,  tlie  comers  of  which  are  drawn  t<»w 
ard.s  each  other  by  fi>ur  strips  of  hide.     In  the  iir: 
year  of  his  life  he  crawls  about  without  cl»»tlies,  ami  I 
have  more  than  once  seen  a  nuttlier  give  a  chihl  of 
this  arrc  a  sharp  knife,  a  foot  lon<r,  to  play  with.     A 
soon  a.^  he  walks,  his  infantine  amui^enients  are  tho> 
whidi  jirepare  him  for  the  oceuj>atii»ns  of  his  futui' 
life  ;  with  a  lazo  made  of  twine  he  tries  to  catch  little 
birds,  or  the  dopi,  as  they  walk  in  and  out  of  the  lint. 
By  the  time  he  is  four  years  old  lie  is  on  horseback, 
nnd  immediately  becomes  usefid  by  assistin«?  to  drive 
the  cattle  into  the  corral." 

"When  Butliciently  strong  to  cope  witli  a  wild  ani- 


TUE    LLAXEUOS.  45 

nial,  tlie  young  Llaiiero  is  taken  to  the  majada  or 
great  cattlo-pen,   and   there  hoisted    upon    the    bare 
back  of  a  tiereo  young  bull.     AVith  his  I'aee  turned 
towards  the  animal's  tail,  which  he  holds  in  lieu  of 
bridle,  and  his  little  legs  twisted  around  the  neck  of 
his  antagonist,  he  is  whirled  round  and  round  at  a 
furious  rate.     His  position,  as  may  be  imagined,  is 
any  thing  but  equestrian  ;  yet,  the  fear  of  coming  in 
contact  with  the  bull's  horns  compels   the  rider  to       \ 
hold  on  until,  by  a  dexterous  twist  of  the  animal's        ] 
tail  while  he  jumps  oft'  its  back,  he  succeeds  in  over-   ,    / 
turning  his  antagonist. 

In  proportion  as  he  grows  older  and  stronger,  a 
more  manly  amusement  is  afiorded  him  with  the 
breaking  in  of  a  wild  colt.  This  being,  however,  a 
more  dangerous  experiment,  in  which  many  a  "  young 
Dagle  "  is  rendered  a  "  lame  duck,"  he  is  provided 
oMth  the  necessary  accoutrements  to  withstand  the 
terrible  struggle  with  the  animal.  Firmly  seated 
upon  his  back  and  brandishing  overhead  a  tough 
?/urjHirro  vine  for  a  whip,  the  apprentice  is  thus  in- 
^talled  in  his  new  office,  from  which  ho  must  not  de- 
scend until  the  brute  is  perfectly  subdued  ;  the  coil 
3f  lazo  in  the  hands  of  his  merciless  instructor  would 
be  the  least  evil  awaiting  him  should  he  otherwise 
escape  safe  and  sound  from  the  desperate  kicks  and 
plunges  of  the  horse. 

Here  commences  what  we  may  term,  the  public 
life  of  the  Llanero  ;  his  education  is  now  considered 
complete.  From  this  moment  all  his  endeavors  and 
ambition  will  be  to  rival  his  comjtanions  in  the  dis- 
play of  physical  force,  which  he  shows  to  an  admi- 


lO  TIIAVKLS   AND   ADVENTURES. 

rablu  deijrcc  Avhen,  armed  witli  his  to\i<rlj  hizo,  lio 
j)iirftia'i5  the  wild  animals  of  liis  domain.  If  a  power- 
ful bull  or  wild  horse  tries  to  escape  into  the  open 
j>l:iin,  the  cavalier  unfurls  the  noose  which  is  always 
ready  by  his  side,  and  the  fuj^itive  is  quickly  brou«;ht 
back  to  the  corral.  {Should  the  thonjr  ^ive  way  under 
the  impetuous  flight  of  the  animal,  the  rider  seizes 
him  by  the  tail,  and  whirlin<;  round  suddeidy,  pulls 
towards  him  with  so  much  force  as  to  cause  his  im- 
mediate overthrow. 

In  all  tlioMi  uxcrciscs  the  mvinjj  cavalier  of  the 
Llanos  acipiires  thjit  feeling  v(  security  and  endurinj; 
disposition  i'or  which  he  is  famous.  Unfortunately,  it 
is  often  turned  to  aecount  in  disturbing  the  balance 
of  power  among  his  more  enlightened  countrymen  ; 
for  he  is  always  ready  to  join  the  first  revolutionary 
movement  ofl'ering  him  the  best  chances  for  cfjuipjiing 
himself  with  arms  of  all  descriptions.  Next  to  the 
(  horse,  the  Llunero  esteenis  those  ■\vcaj)ons  which  give 
^  him  a  superiority  over  his  fellow-creatures,  viz.,  a 
lancH.',  a  blunderbuss,  and  a  fine  swoixl.  If  he  is  un- 
provided with  either  of  these,  he  considers  himself  a 
misera]>le  and  degraded  being,  and  all  his  eflorts  will 
tenil  to  gratify  this  favorite  vanity,  even  at  the  risk 
of  liis  own  life.  Therefore  lie  goes  to  war,  because  he 
is  sure,  if  victorious,  of  finding  the  battle-field  covered 
with  these  tempting  trophies  of  his  ambition.  In  this, 
unfortunately,  he  is  too  often  encouraged  by  a  host 
of  iinj>rincipled  ]>oliticians  who,  not  wishing  to  cam 
a  livelihood  by  fair  means,  are  eternally  pl«)tfing 
against  the  ])owers  that  be. 

The  stvle  of  6Word  worn  bv  the  Llancros  ditlers 


^/ 


TUK    LLANEROS.  '  47 


little  from  that  used  hy  S])anitirtls  of  the  middle  ages, 
the  hilt  being  surmounted  by  a  guard  in  the  shape  of 
a  reversed  cup,  aftbrding  an  excellent  protection  to 
the  hand  that  wields  it,  while  the  blade  is  made  with 
two  edges,  instead  of  one.  Most  of  these  swords  are 
mounted  in  silver,  the  same  as  the  accompanying 
dagger,  another  of  their  favorite  weapons  ;  and  such 
is  tlie  passion  among  Llaucros  for  glittering  swords 
and  daijgers,  that  they  would  sooner  dispense  with  a 
house  or  a  corral,  than  with  either  of  these  expensive 
commodities. 

The  lance  comes  next  in  importance,  and  iu  their 
hands  is  quite  a  formidable  weapon,  which  they  are 
enabled  to  handle  with  great  dexterity,  from  their 
constant  practice  with  the  garrocha  or  goad  with 
which  they  drive  and  turn  the  cattle.  As  an  element 
of  war,  the  lance  has  become  celebrated  in  the  coun- 
try, having  rendered  the  cause  of  Independence  the 
most  effectual  service  in  repelling  the  attacks  of  the 
sanguinary  hosts  sent  by  Spain  against  the  indomi- 
table ''  Rebeldes  "  of  Colombia. 

Tlic  trahuco  or  blunderbuss,  too,  is  held  in  great 
estimation  as  a  weapon  of  defence,  or  rather  of  ag- 
gression, as  they  are  at  all  times  ready  to  test  its 
powers  on  the  slightest  provocation ;  and  nobody 
thinks  of  travelling  in  that  desert  country  without 
one  of  these  wide-mouthed  spitfires  by  his  side. 

Being  rather  of  a  superstitious  turn  of  mind,  these 
people  believe  that  by  decorating  their  deadly  wea- 
pons with  some  insignia  of  their  religion,  they  are 
rendered  more  effectual  ;  the  cross  surmounts  their 
swords  and  daggers  ;  while  the  rosary  and  acjnus  Dei 


?  ia>Ti2rTr«K. 


\vrsa  arU  ol  «i«Cfen:  ick.  cnder  aar  otb*  r 

vxwki  be  cottadnvd  nsh  in  tW  eji- 


:hni$  to  Bx«<  V.  n^  extr- 

riTSS?^   »=d    TfTxr  _  ---?   cotv.     ,~v.~.^..;.    . 

Bd  awt  ^irtkcir 

-V.  eaooj^ti  of  ^«  ex- 

e«rkiBf»  «f  tk^ 


Tin:    LLANKROS. 


•11) 


ill  gold  or  silver  ;  or  written  orisons  carofully  pre- 
served in  Icatlu'rn  bags  and  worn  susj)ended  from 
their  rosaries  arunnd  their  necks.  ISfost  of  these  ori- 
sons are  the  more  extravagant  from  the  faet  they  havi; 
no  meaning  whatever;  yet  this  very  obscurity  seems 
to  attach  greater  value  to  them,  their  princii)al  charm 
consisting,  as  they  say,  in  their  mysterious  iinj)ort. 

Great  faith  is  also  placed  in  certain  prayers  which 
are  supjiosed  to  have  the  power  of  di-iving  away  tlie 
Devil,  curing  diseases  and  averting  all  kinds  of  evil. 

As  regards  their  Creator,  they  only  have  some 
vague  ideas  ;  they  believe,  for  instance,  in  one  God ; 
mais  voila  tout.  They  seem  to  entertain  greater  fear 
of  Beelzebub  and  Death  personified,  both  of  whom 
they  imagine  to  possess  undisputed  sway  over  Ilis 
creatures.  The  first  they  fancy  to  be  fashioned  with 
liorns,  hoofs,  and  claws  like  some  of  their  Avild  beasts. 
Their  ideas  of  death  are  no  less  extravagant.  A  re- 
spectable old  gentleman  of  my  ac(piaintancc  who  once 
found  himself  very  low  with  fever,  thus  related  his 
experience  res])ecting  this  tipnrful  vision.  "  AVhy  !  " 
said  he  to  a  circle  of  friends  who  came  to  congratulate 
him  on  his  recovery,  "  I  had  always  supposed  that 
Death  was  actually  a  horrid  skeleton  skulking  about 
the  world  in  search  of  victims,  and  carrying  in  his 
hand  a  fearful  hook  with  which  he  angled  for  us  as 
we  do  for  fish.  No  such  thing,  my  friends,  I  assure 
you  ;  Death,  after  all,  is  nothing  more  than  lack  of 
breath  ;  "  accompanying  the  assertion  with  a  gentle 
pressure  of  his  nose  with  his  fingers  and  a  hearty 
laugh. 

As  a  natural  consequence,  the  Llaneros,  in  spite 


:,0  TUAVKI.^   AND    AI»VKNTLRHS. 

of  their  hraviiv  ami  sungfroid  in  other  respects,  en- 
tertain <;rciit  tear  of  tft/nitifon  or  {jliosts  and  aj)])ari- 
tions.  (Jnc  of  the  most  pojiulur  hallucinations  of  this 
kind  is/</  Mo  th'j'unjo,  or  "  light  of  A^Miirre  the  Ty- 
rant,'' as  the  natives  usually  style  it — a  sort  of  i</m'g 
fatuusy  arising  from  the  decomjmsition  of  organic 
substances  at  the  hottoni  of  certain  marshes.  Super- 
stitious imaginations,  nnacquainted  with  this  i»he- 
nomcnttn,  readily  transform  the.-e  ga^cous  exhalations 
into  the  m»uI  of  the  famous  Lope  de  Aguirre  wander- 
ing about  the  savannas.  This  adventurous  individual 
had  the  satisfaction,  whik-  he  lived,  of  discovering  the 
great  river  Amazon.  Being  t»f  a  restless  and  bhiody 
dispositit>n,  like  all  the  heroes  of  that  epoch,  he  started 
in  search  of  Kl  Dorado  with  a  powrful  expedition 
from  Peru,  which  resulted  in  the  disi-overy  of  the 
lather  of  Waters.  He  stained  his  laurels,  however, 
with  the  blooil  of  his  own  daughter,  as  well  as  with 
that  of  his  com])anions,  for  whieh  unpardonable  atro- 
cities it  is  believed  his  accurseil  s«»ul  was  left  to  wan- 
der over  thopc  countries  which  he  sullied  with  his 
crimes.*  Now  it  appears  before  tlu'  terrified  traveller 
in  the  form  of  a  blazing  ball  (if  fire;  a  minute  after 
it  will  be  seen  one  or  two  miles  off.  If  suflieicntly 
near,  the  spectator  cannot  fail  to  ubM-rve  the  entrails 
of  the  wicked  wanderer  enveloped  in  the  flames  of 
this  extraordinary  a]»i)arition.  Such  is  the  ])ower  <»f 
aflViglited  imaginatit»ns  whieh  have  c(»nverte<l  one  (►f 
the  cnmmone>t  plu'nomena  of  chemical  action  into 
the  wildest  siKculation  <tf  besotte<l  fanaticism. 

*  Sec  Humboldt,  Travi'U  to  the  E<ivuuociial  Kcgiona  of  America. 


TUE    LLANEROS.  51 

"With  regard  to  miracles  and  the  interposition  of 
the  saints,  the  names  of  some  of  which  are  constantly 
in  their  mouths,  the  Llaneros  also  have  many  curious 
notions.  For  every  emergency  of  tlieir  lives  there  is 
a  special  patron  saint ;  Sau  Pablo,  like  good  old  St. 
rutriek,  is  supposed  to  have  entire  sway  over  snakes 
and  other  vermin  ;  San  Antonio,  the  power  of  re- 
storing stolen  goods  to  their  rightful  owners ;  while 
San  somebody  else  that  of  befi-iending  the  highway 
robber  and  assassin  from  the  punishment  of  justice 
and  violent  death.  As  an  illustration  of  this  fact,  I 
will  relate  here  an  incident  whicli  I  witnessed  during 
one  of  those  endemic  revolutions  so  typical  of  the 
Spanish  American  republics,  and  which  never  fail  to 
foster  lawless  bands  of  desperadoes  who,  under  the 
cover  of  political  reforms,  commit  all  sorts  of  depre- 
dations upon  the  helpless  inhabitants. 


JO?E   URBAXO,    THE   GUERILLA-CniEF. 
A  digression  for  the  scdr  oftarictrj. 

Shortly  after  our  return  from  the  Apure,  a  revo- 
lution broke  out  among  the  colored  population  ;  a 
class  which  until  then  had  been  the  most  peaceful 
and  submissive,  but  since  perverted  to  such  a  degree 
as  to  require  all  the  energies  and  resources  of  the 
wliite  race  to  save  itself  from  utter  ruin  and  degra- 
dation. 

An  ambitious  demagogue,  editor  of  a  newspaper 
in  the  capital,  had  been  seized  with  the  mania,  so 


52  TRAVELS   AX1>   ADVENTURES. 

prevalent  in  South  America,  of  beconiinp:  Prcsiilent 
{pro  Um.)  of  the  Kej>ublic.  To  this  end,  he  gj^ared  n»» 
means  in  reoommendinfi:  himself  to  the  public,  through 
the  colunnw  of  his  pajier,  heaping  at  the  same  time 
all  kinds  of  f^lander  and  abuse  upon  those  who  stood 
in  his  way.  Findini:,  however,  little  eouj»eration  from 
the  better  class  of  the  eonnnunity,  he  experienced  n<> 
scruple  in  courting  the  favor  of  the  colored  popula- 
tion, who,  he  readily  persuade<l,  ''  had  a  j»erfect  right 
to  share  in  the  gains  and  j)roj)erty  of  their  aristocratic 
masters.''  The  (u»vennnent  was  j>owerless  in  arrest- 
ing the  spirit  of  revolt  which  was  daily  being  infused 
among  the  ma.sses,  as  the  Constitution  allowed  perfect 
freedom  of  the  press,  and  the  good  citizens  did  not 
care  to  take  the  matter  into  their  own  hands.  The 
consequence  was,  a  fearful  outbreak  among  the  lower 
classes,  backed  by  all  the  tramposo^  or  broken-down 
sj)Cculators  of  the  country,  proclaiming  community 
of  proj>crty,  and  the  ci-devant  editor  (who,  by  the 
way,  had  not  a  sous  to  stake  in  it)  candidate  for  the 
next  Presidency  of  the  Pepublic.  The  revolt  soon 
8j)rcad  to  the  Lluncros,  by  far  the  most  to  be  feared 
in  the  matter  of  hard  blows ;  and  although  it  was 
quelled  in  time  through  the  eflbrts  of  General  Pacz, 
it  sowed  the  seeds  of  di.scontent  which  have  since 
brought  forth  to  the  country  an  abundant  crop  of  re- 
venge, violence,  and  rapine.  It  wjis  during  that  cam- 
paign the  incident  I  am  about  to  relate  occurred  in 
the  savannas  of  San  Pablo. 

AVe  had  just  encam]»ed  for  the  night  on  the  beau- 
tiful jdain  of  ^rorro<'«»ycs,  not  far  from  our  j^lacc, 
when  a  messenger  arrived  to  apprise  the  General  that 


THE    LLANKKOS.  53 

the  fiinious  Jose  Urbano,  leader  of  a  band  of  rol)bers 
■svlio  had  eonanitted  several  ^vallton  murders  in  that 
neii^hborhood,  had  crossed  over  to  San  Pablo  under 
cover  of  niijht.  The  General  innnediately  desj^atched 
a  d<.>zen  of  his  men  after  the  banditti,  with  positive 
orders  to  follow  up  the  rastro  or  trail  to  the  world's 
end  if  necessary,  and  not  return  to  his  presence  with- 
out the  body  of  the  leader,  muerto  6  vivo^  dead  or 
alive.  To  any  other  set  of  men  less  accustomed  to 
the  wild  pursuits  of  the  Llanos,  this  would  have  ap- 
peared an  impossibility  in  a  country  like  San  Pablo, 
traversed  in  all  directions  by  numerous  cross-ways 
made  by  the  cattle  ;  but  the  instinct  of  those  men  in 
trackino^  runaways  as  well  as  stray  animals,  is  truly 
■wonderful.  Although  the  i)lain  was  covered  with  the 
footprints  of  twenty  thousand  animals  roaming  wild 
over  the  savannas,  they  followed  close  on  the  heels  of 
the  banditti,  until  they  fell  in,  unfortunately,  with 
another  trail  left  by  some  vaqiceros.  The  night  was 
very  dark,  and  they  easily  mistook  this  for  that  of  the 
enemy.  As  a  matter  of  course  it  led  them  to  a  ranch 
where  the  unlucky  vaq^uros  were  amusing  themselves 
at  the  game  of  monte.  "Without  stopping  to  ascertain 
who  the  gamblers  were,  the  troop  charged  in  the 
midst  of  them,  killing  two  or  three  innocent  fellows, 
and  dispersing  the  rest  like  a  herd'  of  wild  sheep. 
The  aggressors  did  not  discover  their  mistake  until 
one  of  the  fugitives,  who  happened  to  be  acquainted 
with  the  party,  recognized  the  voice  of  the  com- 
mander, and  shouted  to  hira  to  stop  the  carnage. 

After  this  unfortunate  encounter,  it  may  be  easy 
to  conceive  that  the  troopers  were  not  slow  in  rotrac- 


54  TRAVEUS   AND   ADVENTURES. 

'u\>^  tlii'ir  htcj>s  in  boarcli  of  tlif  cau!=e  of  tluir  luihtakf ; 
tliiij  tiuu',  howt'ver,  \\ itli  more  jmulcucr,  laivfully  tx- 
ainiiiiii^'  evi-ry  trail  until  thi-v  fdund  the  right  one.  li 
led  them  to  another  ranch  where  Urbano  was  tpcud- 
ing  the  evening  in  the  society  of  one  of  his  uumerous 
sweethearts.  Here  they  all  dismounted  very  quietly, 
and  leaving  the  hordes  in  eliargo  of  two  companions, 
they  rushed  into  the  ranch  with  a  wild  shout  and 
lance  in  hand.  The  attack  was  so  sudden,  that  most 
of  the  Itanditti  were  either  killed  or  dispersed  before 
they  had  time  to  seize  their  arms.  Only  their  gallant 
leader  stood  at  bay  against  tremendous  odds,  defend- 
ing him>elf  bravely  for  u  long  time  with  the  assistance 
of  his  e<pially  courageous  sweetheart,  who  kept  all 
the  while  urging  him  on  like  a  tigress. 

Overpowered  at  last  by  a  sui»erior  force,  and  faint 
with  the  loss  of  blood  from  numerous  wounds,  the 
bandit  fell  at  the  feet  of  his  sable  Amazon.  When 
raised,  an  amulet  was  found  between  his  teeth  so 
firmly  held,  that  it  required  the  united  efforts  of  two 
men  to  remove  it.  On  being  opened,  it  was  found  to 
contain  a  written  orison,  shrouded  in  such  mysterious 
language  as  would  have  defied  the  skill  of  a  magician 
to  der-ipher.  This,  I  was  informed.  wa.««  the  famous 
Orarion  (hi  Juxto  Jue::,  a  singular  misnomer  for  a 
talisman  intended  to  befriend  these  ffetUe  uon  sancta 
in  their  marauding  expeditions. 

It  was  a  lucky  thing  for  the  assailants  that  Urbano 
received  at  the  outset  a  severe  cut  on  liis  right  arm, 
causing  an  immediate  flow  of  blood  which  fille<l  the 
jtan  of  his  fnifjuro,  otherwi>e  the  aftair  would  have 
terminated  very  differently.    The  ignition  of  the  pow- 


THE    LLANEROS.  55 

der  was  thus  prcvontod  just"  as  lie  was  in  the  act  of 
disL'harging  the  eonteiits  ot"  that  engine  of  (.lestruction 
amidst  the  group. 

The  body  of  the  culprit  was  now  tied  on  the  back 
of  a  horse  and  conveyed  to  the  presence  of  the  Gen- 
eral, as  an  atonement  for  the  unfortunate  mistake 
which  had  dei)rived  him  of  the  services  of  two  or 
three  valuable  hands. 

The  news  of  this  adventure  spread  as  if  by  magic 
over  the  surrounding  country  and  brought  together 
great  numbers  of  curiosos^  among  them,  no  doubt, 
many  of  Url)ano's  adherents,  who  might  have  dis- 
credited the  statement.  The  General  improved  the 
opportunity  to  address  them  an  impressive  homily, 
ordering  at  the  same  time  the  mutilated  body  of  the 
renowned  bandit  to  be  exposed  on  the  public  road  for 
twenty-four  hours,  as  a  warning  to  others  with  similar 
proclivities. 

The  death  of  this  man,  considered  invulnerable  by 
the  superstitious  children  of  the  Llanos,  produced  a 
more  powerful  impression  upon  them  than  if  a  great 
battle  had  been  fought  and  won.  Kext  day,  hun- 
dreds o{  facciosos,  availing  themselves  of  a  general 
amnesty  granted  by  the  Commander-in-Chief  to  re- 
pentant revolutionists,  began  to  arrive  from  various 
♦piarters  and  gave  in  their  submission. 

Thus  ended  for  the  time  being  one  of  the  most 
dangerous  outbreaks  that  had  ever  occurred  in  the 
country,  from  the  nature  of  the  principles  involved. 
As  to  the  originator,  he  was  subsequently  eclipsed  by 
a  bolder  political  aspirant,  the  ever-memorable  Jose 
T.  ]!kIonaga.^.     This  worthy,  of  whom  more  especial 


TUAVKUS   AND   ADVENTURES. 

mention  will  be  nmde  Ijoreaftcr,  and  wli(»,  in  an  ovil 
hour  for  his  counlrv,  wtuj  called  to  fill  the  chiiir  of 
iStute,  jiroliting  by  the  condition  of  aniiivhy  in  which 
the  other  had  |ilunged  tJiu  nation^  ufterwurds  shot 
ilowu  the  licjjrciientatives  of  the  people  in  Couj^re^fl 
a.-Ncnibled,  and  proclaimed  hiin&clf  absolute  ruler, 
thuti  leaving  the  other  ambitious  pretender  to  exclaim 
with  the  poet : 

•'  IIos  ego  Tcrsiculos  feci,  tulit  alter  lionores.'' 


CUMBER  V. 

SCENES      AT     THE     FISIIEnY. 

FouK  days  we  remained  at  San  Pablo  making  ar- 
rangements for  the  contemplated  expedition  to  the 
Apure  ;  but  the  horses  being  quartered  at  consider- 
able distance,  we  removed  to  La  Yegiiera,  a  small  farm 
within  the  estate  exclusively  devoted  to  the  breeding 
of  those  animals.  Great  numbers  of  mules  were  also 
raised  there,  which  made  the  equine  stock  amount  to 
nearly  three  thousand  animals  of  all  ages.  There, 
untrammelled  by  barriers  of  any  kind,  they  roamed 
at  will  over  those  beautiful  meadows  in  a  semi-wild 
state ;  their  only  keeper  was  a  half-breed,  who  with 
liis  family  occupied  the  Ranch,  which  on  that  occasion 
was  to  shelter  us  also.  Tliis  Ranch  being  too  small, 
however,  for  the  accommodation  of  the  whole  party, 
most  of  them  bivouacked  in  a  grove  of  lofty  Cesal- 
pinias  and  Carob  trees,  from  whose  spreading  branches 
they  slung  their  hammocks,  the  dense  foliage  forming 
a  sufficient  slieltor  from  the  heavy  de\vs  of  night  and 
the  heat  of  the  sun  by  day. 

Our  Leader,  the  Doctor,  and  myself,  were  domi- 
3* 


5S  TRAVELS   AND   ADVENTURES 

filed  at  the  ll:infli.  Ilaviii';  the  full  rnwpe  of  the 
neighhorinj;  groves  during  the  diiy,  we  had  then  no 
occasion  to  use  onr  single  apartment,  already  par- 
tiallv  oetMijMid  with  the  culinary  utensils  and  other 
wares  of  the  family.  But  on  retiring  to  our  ham- 
mocks at  night,  the  scene  presented  was  rather  ludi- 
crotjs.  In  the  same  room  allotted  to  us  slept  the 
keeper,  his  wife,  and  their  numerous  progeny, 
with  all  the  dogs  and  chickens  of  the  hou6elu»ld 
huddled  together  in  the  most  familiar  manner.  Not- 
withstanding, I  will  confess  that  the  arrangement  was 
not  altogether  disagreeable  to  me,  as  in  ch»se  pro- 
pin«piity  slej»t  two  <»f  the  prettiest  damsels  I  had  yet 
encountered  in  that  regi<»n,  with  eyes  brilliant  enough 
to  render  other  light  superfluous.  Tlie  only  imju»rtant 
liindrancc  to  tny  nightly  rej^ose  was  the  occasional 
flaj)])ing  of  wings  anil  the  hourly  crowing  of  our 
host's  favorite  gamecock,  tied  directly  under  my  ham- 
mock, and  who  served  for  clock  and  night-watchman 
to  the  estahlishment. 

Agai>ito,  our  host,  had  an  easy  time  as  ovcrsc<  r 
of  this  domain,  his  only  occupation  being  from  time 
to  time  to  scour  the  savaimas  in  search  of  young  foals 
which  might  have  been  attacked  by  the  fjtimuo.  Tliis 
is  the  larviv  of  a  species  of  fly  deposited  in  the  umbili- 
cal cord  of  the  new  born,  and  which,  if  not  ])rom]»tly 
removed,  will  eat  into  the  very  vitals.  It  is  fortu- 
nately not  diflicult  to  destroy  them  by  the  use  of  pow- 
<lered  lYhath'ffrr^  the  scchI  of  a  liliaceous  plant  (Vera- 
trum  cebadilla)  abounding  in  veratrinc.  For  this 
jturpose,  the  keeper  is  always  ]»rovided  with  a  h<trn 
filled  with  the  poisonous  drug,  and  a  wooden  spatula. 


SCENES    AT    TUE    FISHERY.  59 

AVitli  the  latter  lie  digs  out  the  worms  and  tills  the 
wound  with  the  powder  to  prevent  a  renewal  of  their 
attacks. 

Groves  and  meadows  unequalled  for  their  luxu- 
riance and  natural  beauty  surrounded  us  on  all  sides, 
while  numerous  s])rings  and  rivulets,  issuing  from  the 
foot  of  the  terrace-like  J/tvsv/,-?,  rushed  down  the  de- 
clivity of  the  plain,  increasing  the  volume  of  the 
beautiful  Gudrico  on  whose  banks  stood  the  primitive 
abode  of  our  unsophisticated  host.  This  river  is  justly 
celebrated  for  the  abundance  and  superiority  of  its 
fish  ;  so,  without  delay,  providing  myself  with  hook 
and  line,  I  proceeded  thither,  being  anxious  to  procure 
specimens  for  my  sketch-book,  and  also  a  substitute 
for  our  daily  fare  of  beef.  But,  strange  to  relate, 
each  time  I  dropped  hook  in  the  water,  it  was  carried 
away  in  some  mysterious  manner,  without  the  least 
motion  being  imparted  to  the  float.  My  tackle,  which 
I  had  brought  from  England,  although  arranged  for 
fly-fishing,  was  capable  of  bearing  a  fish  of  many 
]i()unds  weight ;  but  as  I  soon  lost  all  my  stock  in 
hand  in  the  vain  endeavor  to  secure  my  specimens,  I 
gave  up  in  disgust  and  returned  to  the  Eanch  that 
the  mystery  might,  if  possible,  be  explained.  On 
seeing  my  slender  lines,  mine  host  with  a  broad  grin 
facetiously  remarked  that  they  were  good  to  play  at 
fishing  with,  the  oidy  drawback  to  the  amusement 
being  that  the  carlho^  a  fish  not  larger  than  a  perch, 
would  carry  off  all  my  playthings.  Impossible,  said 
I  ;  the  lines  are  strong  enough  to  lift  you  out  of  the 
water  if  necessary  ;  to  this  he  quietly  replied,  direct- 
ing my  attention  to  a  mutilated  finger  of  his  right 


CO  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES. 

hand,  "  Do  you  sec  this  ?  well,  not  long  ago  I  wfts 
washing  my  hands  in  the  river  after  slaiighteriuir  a 
calf,  when  a  caribe  darted  at  my  finger  and  carried 
oil'  a  part  before  I  was  even  aware  of  his  apjtroaeh." 
Here  was  a  serious  obstacle  to  my  favorite  f^port,  and 
to  the  pleasure  that  Mnlliomas  and  I  had  antieijiateti 
in  sketching  the  various  kinds  of  fish  i»cculiar  to  that 
region.  Fortunately,  a  short  distance  down  the  river 
was  a  fishing  encampnieut  provided  with  all  the  ne- 
cessary apjtliances  for  obtaining  tlic  fibh  in  large 
quantities.  Of  these  we  resolved  to  avail  ourselves  ; 
but  as  several  others  of  our  party  were  equally  inter- 
ested, our  leader  despatched  a  messenger  to  the  fish- 
ermen, inviting  them  to  come  up  tlie  river  with  their 
nets,  and  fi.-h  in  our  presence.  To  this  they  readily 
acceded,  and  soon  after  made  their  appearance  pad- 
dling themselves  over  the  water  in  four  large  canoes 
laden,  among  other  things,  with  lluir  c/a'tu/torros  or 
seines,  which  they  at  once  proceeded  to  sj)read  across 
the  stream,  covering  a  deep  charco  or  j)ool  known  to 
contain  abundance  of  fish.  Although  the  river  at 
this  season  was  very  low,  owing  to  the  usual  summer 
drought,  pools  of  considerable  depth  were  left  at  in- 
tervals, and  in  these  the  fish  s«»ught  refuge  in  vast 
numbers  from  the  season's  heat  and  from  the  eager 
jmrsuit  of  the  fishermen,  of  which  the  latter  sang, 
while  spreading  their  seines,  in  tlie  following  lines  : 

Ciiavina  le  dijo  u  Bapro 
Viinionos  al  caramoro, 
Porqiic  y.i  vicnc  d  verano 
Y  nos  c<»gc  cl  cliincliorrcro. 


SCENES    AT    THE    FISIIKRV.  61 

As  the  nets  were  dragged  towards  each  other,  the 
fish  could  be  seen  hy  thousands  moving  within  tlie 
space  embraced  by  the  seines.  Indeed,  so  numerous 
were  they,  that  it  soon  became  impossible  to  pull 
them  in  shore  without  previously  relieving  them  of  a 
portion  of  their  contents.  Accordingly,  some  of  the 
men,  armed  with  throw-nets,  harpoons,  and  hlchcros 
— these  last  large  hooks  atlixcd  to  wooden  handles — 
plunged  into  the  midst  of  the  finny  multitude,  and 
commenced  an  onslaught  on  the  largest  among  them. 
Presently  one  of  the  men  came  out  with  a  monstrous 
fellow  of  the  catfish  tribe  beautifully  striped  like  a 
Bengal  tiger,  and  like  him  having  a  thick  snout  fur- 
nished with  long  barbs.      This  species  is  called  the 


hagre  raijado  or  striped  catfish,  and  is  much  esteemed 
by  people  of  all  classes  as  a  substitute  for  beef  during 
Lent.  Lai'ge  quantities  are  salted  and  sent  at  that 
time  to  the  capital  and  other  cities,  where,  under  the 
name  o( pcscado  llcmcro,  it  forms  one  of  the  delicacies 
of  the  season.  Some  of  these  fish  attain  an  enormous 
size,  measuring  five,  six,  and  even  seven  feet  in  length, 
and  are  so  fat  that  a  single  one  is  a  load  for  two  men. 
In  diving  with  the  hic/iero,  nmch  caution  was 
necessary  on  the  part  of  the  men  lest  they  should  be 


63  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES. 

hooked  by  their  lm»ity  eompanions  in  lien  of  the  tish, 
A  more  iiniMjrtunt  hioiirce  of  anxiety  to  the  diven?, 
WOA  SfVtral  dim^eroiis  tibli  among  the  multitude 
6tru<:t;liiii;  in  the  water,  8ueli  as  the  Ray-fiish,  ^vhol^e 
tail  is  furnished  with  a  stins:  three  inclu'S  lon;r,  with 
whifh  it  intiiets  a  vt-ry  painful  wound  ;  Ekttrie  eelt*, 
whose  toueh  alone  will  ]»aralyzc  in  an  instant  the  mus- 
eles  of  the  strongest  man  ;  the  Payara,  shaped  some- 
what like  a  sabre,  and  c<|ually  dangerous.  The  lower 
jaw  of  this  last  is  furnished  with  a  fonnidable  pair  of 
fangs,  not  unlike  those  of  the  rattlesnake  ;  with  these 
it  inflicts  as  smooth  a  gash  as  if  eut  with  a  razor; 
and  tinally,  the  curibcy  whose  ravenous  and  blood- 
thirsty ]>n)pensitie8  have  caused  it  to  be  likeiietl  to 
the  cannii»al  tribe  of  Indians,  oim'Q  the  teiTor  of  tlio>e 
regions,  but  now  scatteretl  over  the  towns  and  vil- 
lages along  tlie  course  of  the  Orinoco.  Each  time  the 
nets  were  hauled  in  shore,  half  a  dozen  or  more  f»f 
these  little  pests  were  to  be  seen  jumping  in  the 
cr«»W(l,  their  jaws  wide  open  tearing  whatever  came 
in  their  way,  especially  the  meshes  of  the  nets,  which 
they  soon  rendered  useless.  Ilicir  shaq>  triangular 
teeth,  arranged  in  the  same  manner  as  tlutse  t>f  the 
shark,  are  so  strong,  that  neither  coj^per,  steel,  nor 
twine  can  withstand  them.  Tlie  sight  of  any  red  sub- 
stance, blood  especially,  seems  to  roiise  their  sanguin- 
ary a]>petite  ;  and  as  they  usually  go  in  swarms,  it  is 
extremely  <langerous  for  man  or  beast  to  enter  the 
water  with  even  a  scratch  upon  their  bodies.  Horses 
wounded  with  the  sjmr  are  ]>artictdarly  exjmsecl  to 
their  attacks,  and  so  rapid  is  the  work  of  de^fitruction, 
that  unless  immediate  assi^tance  is  rendered,  the  tish 


SCENES    AT    THK    FISHERY.  (53 

soon  penetrate  the  alxlomen  of  tlie  animal  and  speed- 
ily reduee  it  to  a  skeleton  ;  lienee,  doubtless,  their 
appellation  of  moidonjuero — tripe-eater.  There  are 
other  varieties  of  the  caribe  in  the  rivers  of  the 
Llanos,  but  none  so  bold  and  bloodthirsty  as  this 
glutton  of  the  waters.  So  abundant  is  this  species 
in  some  rivers  of  the  Apnre,  tliat  it  is  a  common 
saying  among  Llaneros  :  "  there  is  more  caribe  than 
M-ater." 


Every  feature  of  this  miniature  cannibal  denotes 
the  ferocity  and  sanguinary  nature  of  its  tastes.  The 
piercing  eye,  surrounded  by  a  bloody-looking  ring, 
is  expressive  of  its  cruel  and  bloodthirsty  disposition. 
Its  under  jaw,  lined  with  a  thick  cartilaginous  mem- 
brane which  adds  greatly  to  its  strength,  protrudes 
considerably  beyond  the  upper,  giving,  as  this  forma- 
tion of  jaw  does  to  all  animals  possessing  it,  likewise 
an  expression  of  ferocity.  Large  spots  of  a  brilliant 
orange  hue  cover  a  great  portion  of  its  body,  espe- 
cially the  belly,  fins,  and  tail.  Toward  the  back,  it  is 
of  a  bluish  ash  color,  with  a  slight  tint  of  olive  green, 
the  intermediate  spaces  being  of  a  pearly  white,  while 


64  TRAVF.I-S   AND   ADVENTURES. 

the  *rill-covcrs  are  tin*]je(l  with  red.  Tlie  inlinhitnnts 
heinjr  «»ttfn  cunipelled  to  swini  acrosj?  i-treunis  inrcstL'd 
vitli  thiin,  fiitcrtaiii  more  feur  of  these  little  ereatures 
than  of  that  workl-renowiied  monster,  the  croeodile. 
This  hifet,  althoii^di  a  formidable  anta^'oniht  in  the 
water,  ean  be  ea.-^ily  avoided  and  even  eoiKjUered  in 
pini;le  eombat  by  daring  men,  while  the  former,  from 
their  diminutive  size  and  greater  numbers,  ean  do  more 
nnsehief  in  a  short  time  than  a  legion  of  crocodiles. 

The  other  kinds  of  caribc,  althongh  larger  in  size, 
arc  less  dangerous  than  the  preceding,  and  some  even 
l)erfcetly  harmless.  Among  these,  the  black  caribe 
of  the  Aj)ure  and  Orinoco  rivers  is  considered  dainty 
eating.  The  carihiio  is  a!.-^<»  a  hannless  ]»retty  little 
fish,  with  l)ack  of  a  fine  green  color,  and  belly  white 
with  occasional  streaks  of  pink. 

In  spite,  hcAvever,  of  all  these  vicious  creatures, 
and  the  gri'at  dipth  of  the  water,  the  fishermen  accom- 
plished their  work  in  a  manner  that  would  have  done 
credit  to  the  fearless  jiearl-divers  of  the  ocean,  more 
especially  the  swinnners,  who  arc  constantly  in  dan- 
ger fr<tm  some  of  the  fish  while  gliding  through  the 
water  in  their  ]>ursuit.  Tliose  in  the  canoes  were,  of 
course,  less  liable  to  be  attacked,  although  it  often 
happened  that  a  jyaf/ara,  being  peculiarly  adapted 
for  darting  out  of  the  water,  would  clear  the  nets  with 
a  spring  and  fall  in  the  midst  of  the  j»addlers,  causing 
a  m<»mentarv  confusion  among  them.  My  attention 
was  j>articularly  attracted  to  the  skill  of  the  men  in 
throwing  their  hand  nets,  sometimes  lying  on  their 
stomach  on  the  surface  of  the  M'ater,  their  liands  en- 
cumbered with  the  nets ;  others  would  stand  perfectly 


SCENES    AT    THE    FISIIEKY.  g5 

erect,  half  tlieir  bodies  out  of  water,  and  witlioiit  any 
footing  to  serve  tlieni  as  point  cTaj^puL  In  the  same 
manner,  those  whose  business  it  was  to  drive  the  fish 
towards  the  seines,  managed  their  huge  batons,  and 
all  apparently  without  the  least  inconvenience.  Sud- 
denly their  labors  were  interrupted  by  a  serious  ob- 
stacle in  the  shape  of  a  caiman  or  alligator  struggling 
hard  between  the  nets  to  regain  his  freedom.  Ilere 
was  a  sufficient  test  of  the  courage  and  ability  of  tlie 
fishers.  If  the  monster  remained,  he  would  not  only 
endanger  the  nets,  but  also  the  progress  of  the  men 
tlirough  the  water,  they  bemg  liable  at  any  moment 
to  come  in  contact  with  his  powerful  jaws.  It  was 
therefore  decided  to  get  rid  of  the  intruder  at  all 
hazards.  To  accomplish  this,  a  lazo  was  procured, 
and  to  the  astonishment  of  all  the  hlancos  present,  a 
man  went  down  M'itli  it  to  the  bottom  in  search  of  the 
monster,  with  the  avowed  object  of  lazoing  him  imder 
the  water.  After  a  few  moments  of,  to  us,  most  anx- 
icnis  suspense,  but  which  the  hardy  fishermen  re- 
garded as  child's  play,  their  companion  rose  to  the 
surface  panting  for  breath,  not  yet  having  ascertained 
the  precise  position  of  his  intended  victim.  After 
inhaling  sufticient  air,  the  diver  again  disappeared, 
coming  up  in  due  time  with  the  glad  tidings  that  the 
enemy  was  captured,  in  jiroof  whereof  he  handed  us 
the  other  end  of  the  lazo  that  we  might  drag  him  out. 
This  was  no  easy  task,  as  these  rej^tiles,  by  tlieir  pe- 
culiar conformation,  have  immense  power  while  under 
water,  and  it  required  the  united  efforts  of  all  on 
shore  to  land  him.  This  accomplished,  we  M'cre  per- 
plexed in  what  manner  to  despatch  him,  as  no  steel 


CO  TRAVEIi;   AM)   ADVKNTUKES. 

inbtnuiu'iit  tiiu  jK'iu'tnitc  tlie  thick  ciiira&s  of  the 
caiman,  cxi-t-pt  it  be  in  the  unii])itj» ;  but  fco  violent 
were  his  i?tni«:<;los,  that  it  was  iinj>otisible  to  strike 
him  there.  At  hij-t  the  Doctor,  more  sa^^acious  than 
the  rest  of  us  in  anatomical  operations,  plun«xecl  a 
harpoon  into  the  nape  of  the  neck.  The  eflect  was 
that  (»f  j)aralyzin«;  at  once  the  movements  of  the 
prisoner,  after  whicli  lie  was  easily  stabbe<l. 

The  manner  in  which  our  jrallant  diver  accom- 
plished his  (larin<^  feat  was  thus  explained  by  his 
companions  ;  the  caiman,  like  the  domestic  ho«j, 
is  said  to  delight  in  beinj^  scratched  about  the  ribs,* 
and  of  this  the  diver  perhajts  availed  himself  in 
order  tu  jtlace  the  n<Htse  ar(»un<l  his  neck,  bein;;  very 
careful  to  apj»roach  him  from  behind,  as  it  is  a  well- 
known  fact  that  these  reptiles,  owinjLT  to  the  nature  of 
their  collar  vertebra\  cannot  easily  turn  round.  The 
allij;ator  is  not  so  danirerous  as  its  con«;enerthe  croco- 
dile of  the  (Orinoco  and  its  tributaries;  few  real  croco- 
diles ever  ascend  the  Guarico  as  far  as  San  J*ablo. 
However,  a  case  had  occurred  here  not  long  before, 
when  a  man  disap])carcd  under  rather  mysterious  cir- 
cumstances, and  there  wa.«;  i;ood  reason  to  sunnise 
that  his  loss  was  due  to  one  of  these  gentry.  It  ap- 
pears that  the  seines,  being  entangled  around  a  snag 
at  the  bottom  of  the  river,  a  man  was,  as  usual,  sent  to 
remove  the  obstruction  ;  considerable  time  elapsing 
without  his  reapjtearance,  his  comrades,  seriously 
alarmed,  instituted  a  dilig(Mit  search,  but  no  ve.stigoof 
the  unfortunate  man  was  ever  discovered.    It  never  oc- 

•  Since  the  above  liri-l  api>e4re<l  in  initil,  I  find  this  fact  corrobo- 
rated bv  Sir  J.  Emerson  Tennent,  in  hw  intereHlin^  "Sketches  on  ilie 
Nat.  Hist,  ok  Ceylon,"  ns  prnrtiiicd  by  the  n.itivos  of  that  island. 


SCENKS    AT    THE    FISHERY.  (57 

oiirrcd  to  liis  friends  that  lie  might  liavc  fallen  a  prey 
tL>  a  eroeodilc,  and  the  calamity  was  universally  as- 
cribed to  the  supernatural  iuHuence  of  some  evil  genii 
of  the  deep.  From  that  time,  the  spot  has  borne  the 
ominous  name  of  the  Encantado  or  haunted  pool. 

All  obstructions  to  the  progress  of  the  nets  were 
at  length  removed,  and  a  sufficient  quantity  of  fish 
having  been  taken  therefrom,  we  all  assit^ted  in  pull- 
ing them  in,  and  a  few  moments  afterwards  had  the 
fiatistaction  of  beholding  the  sand  banks  on  which  we 
were,  strewn  with  the  proceeds  of  the  two  seines. 

It  would  be  impossible  to  convey  an  adecpiate 
idea  of  the  singular  forms  and  brilliant  hues  of  most 
of  these  lish,  all  new  to  me.  The  Chcrna^  in  particu- 
lar, attracted  my  attention  from  their  abundance 
and  peculiar  formation.  Some  attain  a  large  size, 
weighing  as  much  as  a  hundred  pounds,  and  their 
flesh  is  so  delicate  as  to  deserve  the  appellation 
of  river  veal.  The  mouth  is  comparatively  small, 
and  set  with  a  row  of  teeth  bearing  a  strong  resem- 
blance to  those  of  the  human  species. 

The  tishing  having  been  solely  for  our  amusement, 
and  more  game  obtained  than  we  required  for  our 
consumption,  some  was  distributed  among  the  people 
of  the  neighborhood  who  had  collected  to  witness  the 
sport,  and  the  remainder  given  to  the  fishermen,  who 
received  besides  a  handsome  compensation  for  their 
trouble  in  coming  so  far  from  their  encampment. 

During  the  distribution  of  the  fish,  a  singular  in- 
cident t(jok  j)lace  which  illustrates  at  once  the  tena- 
city of  life  with  which  reptiles  are  endowed,  and  the 
electrical  powers  of  that  most  singular  creature,  the 


08  TRAVELS   AM)  ADVENTURES. 

gj'mnotus  «tr  electric  eel.  A  boy  liad  discovered  one 
of  thcK.*  aiMoii^  the  lieaj)  of  li&li  on  tlic  be:U'lj,and  wjis 
dru«;ging  it  along  by  means  of  a  bic/uro  to  avoid  the 
Bhockb,  when  the  body  of  the  eel  came  accidentally 
in  contact  with  the  carcass  of  the  caiman.  This  la^jt, 
which,  after  the  rough  treatment  it  had  receivetl  from 
our  medical  advit^er,  was  supposed  to  be  <]uite  dead, 
much  to  the  sur]>rise  of  all,  opened  his  huge  jaws 
and  dosed  them  with  a  loud  crash.  The  Doctor,  espe- 
cially, who,  iVom  his  j)rotVssit)nal  knowltnlge  in  surgi- 
cal oj)crations,  had  ])ronounced  it  beyond  recovery, 
was  the  li>udest  in  his  c.\]>rcssions  of  astonishment  at 
this  unexpected  turn.  It  was,  however,  merely  a 
convulsive  movement,  induced  by  C(»ntact  with  the 
eel,  and  similar  to  that  produced  on  the  limbs  of  a  frog 
by  a  galvanic  current;  for,  afterward,  the  reptile  re- 
mained without  further  signs  of  returning  life.  Science 
will,  ere  long,  take  atlvantagc  of  the  electric  eel. 


(?<^.!a 


r:«»i 


>J 


SCENES    AT    THE    FISHERY.  (59 

I  would  here  most  willingly  eiiti>rt;uu  my  readers 
witli  an  account  of  the  nature  and  liabits  of  these 
'■'  animal  electrical  machines,"  luul  not  the  great 
Humboldt  already  elucidated  the  subject  in  the  most 
comprehensive  and  brilliant  manner.  To  his  admir- 
able works  I  mmU  therefore  refer  the  reader  for  a  full 
and  graphic  description  of  this,  one  of  the  most  curi- 
ous of  fish.  It  was  in  one  of  the  numerous  tributary 
creeks  of  this  river,  that  the  distinguished  traveller 
procured  the  gymnoti  for  his  experiments  ;  perha^JS 
from  amongst  the  progenitors  of  the  above  mentioned. 
The  numner  in  M'hich  they  were  obtained  ditiered 
somewliat,  however,  from  tlie  one  adopted  by  us  on 
this  occasion.  Knowing  how  difficult  it  was  to  catch 
these  eels  on  account  of  their  extreme  agility  and 
powerful  electrical  discharges,  the  guides  collected  in 
the  savannas  a  drove  of  wild  horses,  which  they  forced 
into  a  pool. of  water  abounding  in  gymnoti.  "The 
extraordinary  noise  caused  by  the  horses'  hoofs  makes 
the  fish  issue  from  the  mud  and  excites  them  to  at- 
tack. The  yellowish  and  livid  eels,  resembling  large 
arpiatic  serpents,  swim  on  the  surface  of  the  water 
and  crowd  under  the  bellies  of  the  horses  and  mules. 
A  contest  between  animals  of  so  diflerent  an  organi- 
zation presents  a  very  striking  spectacle.  The  In- 
dians, provided  with  haq)Oons  and  long  slender  reeds, 
surround  the  pool  closely,  and  some  climb  up  the 
trees,  the  branches  of  which  extend  horizontally  over 
the  surfiice  of  the  water.  By  their  wild  cries,  and 
the  length  of  their  reeds,  they  prevent  the  horses 
from  running  away  and  reacliing  the  bank  of  tlie 
pool.     The  eels,  stunned  by  the  noise,  defend  them- 


70  TRAVEL^   AND   ADVEXTUltES. 

selvfs  liv  the  n'peatcHl  disfliarfrc  of  their  ck'ctrif  bat- 
teries. For  a  l<Mi«;  iiiturval  they  ^eeiii  likely  to  jirovt- 
victoritnis.  ISeVfral  horses  hink  beneath  the  violeiiee 
of  the  invi»il»le  strokes  whieh  they  rweive  tVoin  all 
sides  in  organs  the  most  essential  to  life  ;  and  stunned 
by  the  foree  and  frequeney  of  the  shoeks,  they  disaj)- 
jiiur  \iii<ler  water." 

'*  I  wi>h,"  adds  the  travt-lhr,  "  that  a  cii-vcr  artist 
conld  have  dei>iiti'd  tht-  nio.st  aniinutrd  i>erii«l  of  the 
attack  ;  the  ^r»»iii»  of  Indians  surrounding  tlie  ]t<»nd, 
the  horsis  with  their  niancs  crei-t  and  eyeballs  wild 
with  ]>ain  and  iVight,  striving  to  esc-ftj»c  from  the 
elei'trii-  st«»rm  which  they  had  roused,  and  driven 
back  hy  the  shouts  and  long  whips  of  the  excited  In- 
dians;  the  livid  yellow  eels,  like  great  water  snakes, 
swimming  near  the  surface  and  jmrsuing  their  enemy  ; 
nil  these  objects  j>re.scnteil  a  most  jticturesque  and 
exciting  '  ensend>le.'  In  less  than  five  minutes  two 
horses  were  killed  ;  the  eel,  being  m«»re  tluin  five  fe»'t 
in  length,  glides  beneath  the  body  of  the  horse  and 
discharges  the  whole  length  of  its  electric  organ.  It 
attacks,  at  the  same  time,  the  heart,  the  digestive 
viscera,  and  the  codiac  fold  <»f  the  abdominal  nerves. 
I  thought  the  scene  would  have  a  tragi<'  termination, 
and  exj)ected  to  .'^ce  most  of  the  <iuadru)»eds  killed  ; 
but  the  Indians  a.«isured  me  that  the  fishing  would 
soon  be  fijiished,  and  that  only  the  first  attack  of  the 
gynmoti  was  really  f«»rmidable.  In  fact,  after  the 
conflict  had  lasted  a  <jiuirter  of  an  hour,  the  nudes 
and  horses  appean-d  less  alarnu'<l  ;  they  no  longer 
erected  their  manes,  ami  their  eyes  cxj)resse<l  less 
pain  and  terror.     One  no  longer  paw  them  struek 


SCE.NKS    AT    THK    FISIIKIiV.  ^J 

down  ill  tlio  water,  and  tlie  crls,  instead  of  swininiiiijj; 
to  till'  attack,  retreated  I'rom  their  assailants  and  aji- 
]>roa';lied  the  shore.  The  Indians  now  began  to  use 
their  missiles  ;  and  by  means  of  the  long  cord  at- 
tached to  the  harj)oon,  jerked  the  fish  out  of  tlu' 
water  without  reeei\iiig  any  shock  so  long  as  the 
cord  was  dry." 

The  electric  eel,  although  nnuli  dreaded  l)y  man, 
is  greatly  esteemed  by  gourmands.  It  is  necessary, 
however,  tcrdeprive  the  lisli  of  those  parts  constitut- 
ing the  electrical  apparatus,  which  are  rather  spongy 
and  un]iahihible.  So  perfect  a  machine  is  this  curious 
organ,  that  Faraday  succeeded — by  insulation  of  the 
animal  electricity  and  a  most  ingenious  apparatus  de- 
vised by  him — in  obtaining  a  spark  with  which  he  ignit- 
ed a  spoonful  of  gunpowder.  But  there  are  several 
varieties  of  the  fish  which  do  not  possess  this  peculiarity. 

Among  the  promiscuous  assemblage  of  fish  scat- 
tered on  the  sand  beach,  ready  to  transfix  the  hand 
that  might  inadvertently  touch  them,  were  many 
sting-rays.  This  species,  like  its  prototype  the  famous 
j\Ianta-fish  of  the  Caribbean  Sea,  is  quite  circular 
and  flat,  with  a  tail  over  a  foot  in  length,  very  thick 
at  the  base  and  tapering  towards  the  end.  Near  the 
middle  on  the  upper  part,  it  is  armed  with  a  long 
and  sliarp-jiointed  bone  or  sting,  finely  serrated  on 
two  side.-i,  which  the  fish  can  raise  or  lay  flat  at  will. 
"When  disturl)ed,  the  ray,  by  a  quick  movement  of 
the  tail,  directs  its  sting  towards  the  object,  M'liich  it 
seldom  fails  to  reach.  Tlie  wound  thus  inflicted  is  so 
severe,  that  the  whole  nervous  system  is  convulsed, 
the  person  becoming  rigid  and  benumbed  in  a  few 


.-    A>i.    ADVENTURFX 

iiionifiit*.  Even  lonp:  after  the  violent  efl'ects  of  the 
womul  have  t*llb^i(l^.•(^,  tlie  j>art  affected  retains  a  6\\\*x- 
gish  ukeration,  which  has  in  many  instances  batHed 
the  skill  of  the  best  surgeons.  Some  creeks  and  la- 
goons of  stagnant  water  are  so  infestetl  with  them, 
tliat  it  is  almost  certain  destruction  to  venture  into 
theiM.  They  usiially  frequent  the  sluillow  banks  of 
muddy  i)0ols,  where  they  may  !)«•  seen  at  all  times 
watching  for  prey  ;  and,  as  if  conscious  of  their 
powers,  scarcely  deign  to  move  olf  wlien  api»roaciied 
i)y  man.  They,  also,  are  considereil  good  eating,  on 
which  accoimt  they  frequently  fall  a  prey  to  hungry 
boys  and  vultures,  who  wage  constant  war  ujton  them 
with  spi-ar  and  talon. 

]^Ir.  Thomas  and  I  ha<l  ]>lcnty  of  occujtation  in 
sketching  the  various  specimens  before  us  :  but  tho 
speedy  a])proacli  of  night  compelled  us  to  rcIiiKjuish 
our  agreeable  pastime  ;  thus  many  curious  tisli  whi«h 
we  Would  have  liked  to  ])reserve,  had  to  be  consigned 
to  the  frying-pan  instead  of  to  our  portfolios. 

In  the  mean  time  our  able  cook,  Monico,  and  half 
ado7.cn  of  Llancro  assistants — all  of  wliom  are  more  or 
less  accomplishiMl  in  the  art  of  cooking  in  their  own  pe- 
culiar style — were  busily  engaged  throughout  the  af- 
ternoon ])repnring  the  s]>oils  of  the  day  for  otir  sujiper. 
A  fat  calf  was  also  kille<l  in  honor  of  the  occasion, 
and  roasted  before  a  blazing  lire  un»ler  the  trees.  Tlie 
Llani-ros  are  qiiite  skilled  in  roasting  an  ox  or  calf, 
which  they  divide  in  sections  acconling  to  the  flavor 
of  each  ]>articular  niorciau.  These  they  string ui»on 
long  wooden  <"it..  Mmj  keep  them  tiiriiin-r  l,..t..r,.  f1i.. 


SCENES   AT    THE    FISHERY.  73 

fire  until  sufficiently  cooked.  The  rihs  of  the  animal, 
taken  out  entire,  usually  I'orni  the  most  favorite  mor- 
sel;  but  I  would  reeonnnend  to  future  travellers  in 
that  country  the  entreverado,  made  up  of  the  animal's 
entrails,  such  as  the  liver,  heart,  lungs,  and  kidneys, 
cut  into  pieces  of  convenient  size  and  spitted  ;  then 
enveloped  in  the  fat  mesenteric  membrane  of  the  an- 
imal, and  cooked  iii  its  own  juices. 

In  addition  to  this  abundant  supply  of  came 
asada,  we  had  lish  in  every  style,  smoked,  broiled,  en 
saiicoc/io,  (bouilli,)  itc,  with  plenty  of  bread  prepared 
by  the  wife  and  daughters  of  our  equerry.  Just  as 
every  one  had  eaten,  as  lie  supjjosed,  his  fill,  one  of 
our  assistants  made  his  appearance  bending  under  the 
weight  of  a  boiling  caldron  containing  a  rich  bouilli 
of  chenia  heads,  and  urged  us  to  partake  of  his  hum- 
ble fare.  Altliough  this  was  rather  reversing  the 
order  of  courses,  we  were  finally  prevailed  upon  to 
ta-'^fe  the  soup  he  had  prepared  with  so  much  care  for 
us ;  and  no  sooner  was  the  rich  broth  tasted  by  our 
epicurean  party,  than  it  was  forthwith  devoured  with 
unimpaired  appetites ;  but  my  enjoyment  of  the  broth 
was  somewhat  spoiled  by  coming  in  contact  with  a 
row  of  omniverous-looking  teeth,  which  so  reminded 
me  of  a  human  skull,  that  I  was  constrained  to 
throw  my  portion  away,  although  I  must  confess 
that  I  never  tasted  sou])  superior  to  it. 


ClIAITKli    VI. 


H  O  11  S  ES. 


Till:  fishinir  over,  the  main  oLjfct  of  oiir  expedition 
to  La  Vci^'iiera  was  next  nttciuled  to.  nnnuly,  that  of 
addiiii;  to  our  mailrinn  of  sui>erminu'rarv  liorses  fi\tiii 
the  abundant  stock  of  \\\\a  farm.  An  entire  day  -vva- 
passed  in  riding  tlirough  its  enchanting  groves  and 
meadows,  inspecting  the  nmncrong  droves  of  mares, 
guarded  hv  their  proud  j)ndi'off^  or  stallions.  Eaeli 
troop  is  nnder  the  control  of  one  of  these,  who  not 
only  prevent  their  mingling  with  other  jiaeks,  but  en- 
deavor also  to  a]i]iro])riato  all  the  other  mares  they 
ean  kidnap  fr«»m  their  neighbors.  The  conquest,  how- 
ever, is  not  obtained  without  a  determine<l  rl•^.i^tanc(• 
from  their  rightful  lords,  which  occasions  fierce  com- 
bats between  the  rivals.  When  any  stranger  ap- 
])roaches,  the  whole  troop  boldly  advances  toward- 
the  object  of  their  alarm,  neighing,  snorting,  and 
throwing  thi'ir  slim  and  beautiful  forms  into  the  most 
graceful  attitudes.  "When  at  the  distance  of  a  huii- 
dre<l  paces,  they  all  half,  ajid  five  or  6i.x  scouts  an 
detached  from  the  main  bodv  to  reconnoitre.     Tlicte 


WILD    HORSES.  75 

approach  still  nearer,  and  stretcliing  their  necks  and 
ears,  seem,  witli  wild  glance  and  cautious  movement, 
to  inquire  from  the  stranger  the  object  of  this  intru- 
sion, while,  in  the  mean  time,  the  stallion  keeps  the 
whole  troop  in  readiness  for  retreat  in  case  of  pursuit. 
"When  this  last  occurs,  the  scouts  hastily  incorporate 
themselves  with  the  main  body,  while  the  stallion 
orders  the  retreat  as  skilfully  as  a  good  general  might 
under  similar  circumstances,  stopping  occasionally  to 
watch  the  enemy's  movements,  but  never  resuming 
the  lead  until  the  troop  is  out  of  danger.  "When  thus 
wildly  coursing  over  the  prairies  in  packs  of  one  or 
two  hundred,  headed  by  their  respective  stallions,  in- 
spired, as  it  were,  by  the  freedom  of  the  plain,  noth- 
ing can  surpass  their  magnificent  appearance,  nor  the 
proud  air  of  liberty  with  which  they  snuflf  the  passing 
breeze.  We  one  day  brought  to  the  Ranch  a  large 
drove,  from  which  we  selected  those  required  for  the 
expedition.  This  occupied  the  men  for  a  couple  of 
days,  as  it  was  discovered  that  most  of  the  animals 
were  in  bad  condition  from  burrs  and  garrapata^, 
another  destructive  insect  peculiar  to  those  places,  of 
the  size  and  shape  of  a  bed-bug,  and  very  distressing 
to  animals.  It  adheres  with  such  tenacity  to  the  skin 
of  the  poor  brutes,  that  it  requires  to  be  pulled  by 
hand  in  order  to  detach  it ;  if  left  undisturbed,  it  will 
suck  the  blood  until  its  body  becomes  distended  to 
many  times  the  natural  size.  It  attacks  all  kinds  of 
animals,  but  more  especially  horses  :  these  last  suffer 
in  consequence,  from  malignant  sores  about  their  ears, 
which  soon  wither  and  drop  off. 

The  horses  were  so  wild  that  they  had  to  be  broken 


70  THAVKI-S  AND  ADVENTUKES. 

in  before  they  could  be  of  any  service.  Tliis  opera- 
tion— wliich  might  iw  well  bo  termed  breaking  down 
hunses,  Jis  a  great  number  are  ruined  by  it — aflortls 
the  Llaneros  a  lineoi>i>ortunity  for  toting  their  ability 
in  coping  with  this,  the  mo^-t  spirited  animal  in  the 
world.  It  is  also  undoubtedly  one  of  the  most  ditii- 
cult  j»i  rfoiiiiHnce.s  on  cuttle-farnis,  re<piiring  strong 
nerve  and  great  hkill  on  the  jiart  of  the  rider  to  with- 
stand the  kicks  and  plunges  of  tlic  animal  and  retain 
his  seat.  The  method  j)ractised  in  the  IJanns  dilfers 
but  little  from  that  of  the  Pampas  of  Buenos  Ayivts, 
so  ably  described  by  Sir  Francis  Head,  Darwin,  and 
other  eminent  writers.  I  will  quote  some  passages 
from  the  lii-st  of  the.-e  authors  respecting  this  diver- 
tisement  among  the  (iaudios;  their  method  I  specially 
commend  to  the  nunjcrous  disciples  of  the  renowned 
Rarey,  who  has  so  astonished  the  Old  World  and  the 
Kew  with  his  wonderful  skill  in  horse-taming. 

"  llie  corral  was  quite  full  of  horses,  most  of  which 
were  young  ones,  about  throe  and  four  years  old.  The 
capataz,  moimted  on  a  strong,  steady  horse,  rode  into 
the  corral,  and  threw  his  la/o  over  the  neck  of  a  young 
liorsc,  and  dragjxod  him  to  the  gate.  For  some  time  he 
was  very  imwilling  to  leave  his  comrades,  but  the 
moment  he  was  forced  out  of  the  corral,  his  first  idea 
was  to  gallop  away  ;  however,  the  jerk  of  the  lazo 
checked  him  in  a  most  etVectual  manner.  The  peons 
now  ran  after  him  on  foot,  and  threw  the  lazo  over 
Ills  four  legs,  just  above  the  fetlocks,  and  twitcliing 
it,  they  ])ulled  his  logs  from  under  him  so  suddt'iily, 
that  I  really  thought  the  fall  ho  got  had  killed  him. 
In  an  instant  a  Gaucho  was  seated  upon  his  head,  and 


WILD    HOUSES. 


77 


-witli  liis  luiii):  knitV,  in  a  few  seconds  lie  cnt  off  the 
■svhulc  of  the  horse's  mane,  while  another  cut  the  hair 
from  the  end  of  his  taih  This  they  tohl  me  is  a  mark 
that  the  horse  has  been  once  mounted.  They  then 
put  a  piece  of  hide  into  his  month  to  serve  as  a  bit, 
and  a  strong  liide-halter  on  his  head.  The  Ganclio 
who  was  to  mount,  arranged  his  spurs,  wliich  Avero 
unusually  long  and  sharp,  and  while  two  men  held 
the  animal  by  his  ears,  he  put  on  the  saddle,  Avliich  lie 
girthed  extremely  tight ;  lie  then  caught  hold  of  the 
horse's  ear  and  in  an  instant  vaulted  into  the  saddle  ; 
upon  which  the  man  who  was  holding  the  horse  by 
the  halter,  threw  the  end  of  it  to  the  rider,  and  from 
that  moment  no  one  seemed  to  take  any  further  notice 
of  him.  The  horse  instantly  began  to  jump  in  a  man- 
ner which  made  it  very  ditiicult  for  the  rider  to  keep 
his  seat,  and  quite  difterent  from  the  kick  or  plunge 
of  an  English  horse  ;  however,  the  Gaiiclio's  spur  soon 
set  him  going,  and  off  he  galloped,  doing  every  thing 
in  his  power  to  throw  his  rider.  Another  horse  w^as 
immediately  brought  from  the  corral,  and  so  quick  was 
the  operation,  that  twelve  Gauclios  were  mounted  in 
a  space  which,  I  think,  hardly  exceeded  an  hour." 

''  It  was  singular  to  see  the  different  manner  in 
which  the  different  horses  behaved.  Some  would 
actually  scream  while  the  Gauchos  were  girthing  the 
saddle  upon  their  backs  ;  some  would  instantly  lie 
down  and  roll  over  it ;  while  some  would  stand  with- 
out being  held,  their  legs  stiff  and  in  unnatural  direc- 
tions, their  necks  half  bent  towards  their  tails,  and 
looking  so  vicious  and  sulky,  that  I  could  not  help 
thinkinir  I  could  not  have  mounted  one  of  them  for 


78  TUAVKLS   AND   ADVENTURES. 

any  reward  that  could  he  offered  me ;  and  they  were 
invariably  the  most  dillicult  tu  subdue." 

l*y  re|»eatin<;  this  treatment  a  number  of  times, 
and  ft  sound  thrashing  with  the  c/iajxirro  whenever 
they  prove  rcfraetory,  the  riders  finally  6ueeee<i  in 
conquerinpf  the  indomitable  epirit  of  their  steeds, 
although  they  long  retain  a  vicious  propensity  to 
oecasionally  praetise  their  old  tricks,  either  by  throw- 
ing tliemselves  backwards  upon  their  riders,  or  sud- 
denly ])lunging  headlong  at  a  furious  rate.  An«jther 
dangerous  habit  is  that  of  whirling  raj»idly,  when  least 
expe<'ted,  in  an  (»])|)o.site  direction  to  the  one  intended 
by  the  rider,  who,  unless  very  expert,  is  unseated  and 
liable  to  have  his  neck  broken.  But,  when  thei^e 
horses  are  at  length  thoroughly  broken  in,  there  arc 
few  in  the  world  capable  of  jterforming  their  duty  so 
well  as  those  trained  in  the  Llanos  of  Venezuela. 

My  allusion  on  a  former  i»age  to  the  renowned 
Tiarey,  recalls  to  my  memory  the  name  of  Santos 
Nievcs,  a  famous  picador  of  San  Pablo,  whose  ingen- 
ious mode  of  entrajiping  horses  api>ears  to  have  been 
formed  on  the  same  principle  as  that  which  has  char- 
acterized Mr.  Ilarey's  meth<»«l. 

Instead  of  dashing  after  the  droves,  with  lazo  in 
hand,  and  wild  shouts,  as  is  usual  when  the  capture 
of  one  or  more  horses  is  intended,  Santos  Nieves  made 
use  of  every  precaution  to  avoid  giving  these  shy  crea- 
tures the  least  alarm ;  and  so  successfully  were  all  his 
expeditions  executed,  that  he  achieveti  for  himself  the 
tremendous  reputation  of  being  a  horse-witch.  His 
plan  was,  however,  the  sin)j>lest  })ossible.  If  the 
object  was  to  ca|>turc  only  a  single  animal — which 


AVII.l)    HORSES.  7^ 

feat  is  pooiilinrly  diHii-nlt  to  accomplish  in  woody 
l)lacos  especially — he  made  preparations  as  if  for  a 
li>ng  journey,  previous  to  seeking  the  haunts  of  his  in- 
tended captive.  Having  sojourned  in  San  Pablo  for 
over  half  a  century,  he  Mas  thoroughly  ac(piainted  witii 
all  their  aci-ustomed  }>laces  of  resort.  The  tirst  impulse 
of  the  aninn\l  on  finding  himself  followed,  was  to  scam- 
]>er  (,)ff ;  but  tlie  patient  jiii-ador,  instead  of  hurrying  in 
j>ursuit,  quietly  remained  on  the  sauio  spot,  watching 
and  waiting  tlie  next  move  of  the  aninuxl.  l*rescntly 
the  liorse,  seeing  lie  was  not  pursued,  would  conclude 
to  return  and  reconnoitre  the  object  of  his  alarm.  Sat- 
istied  from  the  quiet  attitude  of  the  man,  that  nothing 
need  be  feared  from  him,  the  horse  resumed  his  brous- 
ing  near  by.  Again  the  man  cautiously  and  slowly 
advances,  until  perceived  anew  by  the  horse,  who,  as 
before,  beats  a  rapid  retreat.  Inqielled  by  curiosity, 
he  returned  lor  the  third  time;  again  insjjocts  the 
]>icador,  who  remains  motionless  as  before,  upon  seeing 
M  hich,  the  animal  concludes  he  may  safely  continue 
his  meal.  These  mana?uvrings,  again  and  again  rc- 
]Hated,  usually  occupied  an  entire  day,  towards  the 
close  of  which,  if  the  horse  were  not  very  scary,  the 
l>icador,  with  cautious  approach  and  gentle  words, 
succeeded  in  placing  the  halter  around  his  neck. 
The  extreme  coyness,  however,  of  most  of  these  ani- 
mals, frequently  compelled  Santos  Nieves  to  cainp  out 
for  the  night  and  resume  his  pursuit,  not  only  the  fol- 
h»wiiig  morning,  but,  if  necessary,  for  three  or  more 
consecutive  days,  at  the  end  of  which  ho  always  re- 
turned in  triunq)h  with  his  captive  to  the  farm. 

The  relative  Vidue  (»f  these  horses  depends  princi- 


S(»  THAVKI-S   AM)   ADVENTURES. 

j>ally  on  tlnir  fonii,  (-((lor,  jiiul  ^ait.  The  IJaneros  are 
quite  hkilful  in  teaeliing  them  a  variety  of  j)aees  and 
evohaions,  which  are  as  Cbsential  to  tlieir  hazardous 
occupations,  as  is  the  hehn  to  tlie  mariner.  For  war 
purposes,  they  arc  especially  invaluable,  as  was  i>rac- 
tically  demonstrated  in  the  lonjj  struggle  with  the 
Spaniards,  w  ho  not  being  equally  e.\j)ert  in  the  man- 
agement of  their  steed.s  were,  in  conseciuence,  often  at 
the  mercy  of  their  antagonists.  A  good  charger  mu>t 
be  endowed  with  an  easy  mouth,  good  wind,  and  quick 
m(»vement  to  either  side,  so  that  when  i»ur>ued  by 
an  enemy,  he  can  be  made  to  whirl  suddenly  to  tlie 
attack  if  necessary.  The  same  rule  applies  to  those 
used  in  chasing  wild  animals,  especially  bulls,  which, 
when  lK>tly  jiursued,  often  face  about  and  charge  their 
assailants. 

It  is  equally  indispensable  in  wann  climates,  that 
a  horse  sliould  possess  an  easy  gait  for  travelling.  In 
this  respect,  they  are  trained  to  the  particular  faiicy 
or  requirements  of  the  rider.  Some  ])refer  a  gentle 
trot  on  a  long  journey,  as  being  the  least  fatiguing  to 
tlie  horse ;  ])Ut,  for  city  riding,  or  short  journeys,  an 
amble,  rack,  or  jhisitroti- — something  between  both — 
is  usually  ad«»pted.  Tlie  test  of  a  good  pacing  horse 
consists  in  '*  the  rider  Itcing  able  to  carry  a  gla>s  of 
water  in  liis  hand  without  spilling,"  while  that  of  a 
first-rate  charger  is  to  stop,  when  at  the  height  of 
his  s]>eed,  on  the  slightest  ])ull  of  the  bridle. 
-~  Great  regard  is  also  ]>aid  to  the  color  of  horses; 
]>iebald,  cream,  and  the  various  shades  of  white,  are 
usually  ]>rcferred.  liut,  where  great  endurance  and 
strength  arc  reipiisite,  connoi^seurs  generally  select 


WILD    HORSES.  gj 

those  of  a  darker  color.  Their  price  in  the  country  is 
greatly  enhanced  of  late  in  consequence  of  a  devas- 
tating disease,  which  has  been  raging  among  them  for 
several  years  past.  Horses  were  so  plentiful  in  the 
Llanos  at  one  time,  that  a  large  export  trade  in  their 
hides  was  carried  on  with  foreign  countries.  A  good 
horse,  which  then  only  brought  live  dollars,  now  costs 
from  eighty  to  one  hundred,  and  even  more,  according 
to  the  fancy  of  the  parties  interested. — Great  numbers 
of  the  inhabitants  were  also  carried  away  by  the  same 
scourge,  which  swept  over  the  land  like  the  cholera, 
not  even  sparing  the  fish  in  the  rivers. 

This  frightful  epidemic,  which  the  Llaneros  have 
appropriately  styled  Peste^  or  plague,  is  supposed  to 
have  originated  in  the  great  primeval  forest  of  San 
Camilo,  at  the  head  waters  of  the  Apure,  from  decom- 
position of  the  vegetable  detritus  accumulated  there 
during  centuries.  From  thence,  travelling  eastward 
along  the  course  of  the  river,  the  epidemic  continued 
its  ravages  among  the  inhabitants  of  the  towns  and 
villages  situated  on  the  right  bank,  attacking  first  one 
place  and  then  another,  until  the  whole  province 
scarcely  escaped  depopulation.  Even  when  the  mor- 
tality abated,  the  country,  which  until  then  had  pos- 
sessed a  most  healthful  climate,  never  recovered  its 
former  salubrity ;  fevers  of  a  more  or  less  dangerous 
character  prevail  from  that  time,  especially  towards 
the  end  of  the  rainy  season,  while  the  raising  of  horses 
has  been  entirely  abandoned  in  consequence. 

The  first  symptoms  of  the  epidemic  appeared 
among  the  crocodiles,  whose  hideous  carcasses  might 
then  be  seen  floating  down  the  stream  in  such  pro- 

4* 


32  TRAVKLS   AND   AUVKNTUUKS. 

digiuus  numl>ers,  that  hotli  tho  waters  and  air  ol'  that 
line  rt'iri<»ii  wrre  tainted  with  their  elUnviuni.  It  was 
oht^ervid  that  they  were  tirtit  seized  with  a  violent  iit 
of  e<»n:^hin«;,  fallowed  hv  a  bhick  vomit  whi«'h  eom- 
pelKtl  them  to  <niit  their  watery  lionie,  and  linally  find 
a  jrrave  amon'jrst  the  thicketK  on  the  rivor  hanks. 
The  disease  next  attackinl  the  ii>h  and  other  inhabit- 
ants of  the  water,  with  eqnal  violence,  until  it  was 
feared  the  streams  would  be  depoimlated.  The  fearful 
mortality  nmonj^  them  ean  be  better  estimated  from 
the  faet  that,  for  more  than  a  month,  the  rini»lin<^ 
waves  of  that  iu>ble  river,  the  Apure,  were  eonstantly 
washing:  down  masses  of  ]»utrefa<tion,  its  jdaeid  sur- 
face beini^  by  them  actually  hi<lden  from  view  for 
several  weeks. 

The  next  victims  were  tlic  pachidermata  of  the 
swamj»s,  and  it  was  a  pitiable  sijxht  to  sec  the  slup^ish 
ch'ujiilres  (cajiyvanus)  and  the  fjrizzly  wild-boars 
drafrjx>"i;  their  jiaralyzed  hind-quarters  after  them  ; 
hence  the  name  of  dcrrcngaderay  api»liL'd  to  this 
disea.'^c. 

Not  even  monkeys  in  their  aerial  retreats,  escaped 
the  contaffion,  and  their  melancholy  cries  resoumled 
day  and  nijjht  throujrh  the  woods  like  wailintrs  of  the 
eternally  lost. 

It  is  a  singular  fa<t,  that  wliile  the  scourge  did  not 
Bparc  any  of  the  countless  droves  of  hor.'-es  roaming 
tljc  savannas  of  the  Apure,  and  adjacent  jdains.  don- 
keys and  horned  cattle  were  seldom,  if  ever,  attackeil. 
go  that,  by  their  aid,  the  owners  of  cattle-farms  were 
enabU'd  to  prevent  the  entire  disjK^rsion  of  their  henls. 

A  curious  incident  related  in  connection  with  this 


WILD    UORSES.  33 

piiblif  ciilMinity,  is  very  current  in  the  Llanos,  respect- 
ing tlie  origin  of  the  disease  among  horses.  Eugenic 
Torralva,  a  man  of  uncommon  industry,  although  of 
humble  extraction,  luid  accumulated  quite  a  liand- 
some  fortune  by  the  raising  of  cattle,  on  the  borders 
of  La  Portuguesa ;  but  his  chief  wealth  consisted  in 
horses,  on  which  he  greatly  prided  himself — so  much 
so  that,  on  one  occasion,  while  a  distinguiscd  person- 
age was  passing  through  his  estate,  Torralva  directed 
his  attention  to  the  numerous  droves  grazing  in  the 
plains ;  then  turning  to  his  guest,  Avho  ai)peared 
equally  delighted  with  the  sight,  said  to  him,  "Think 
you.  General,  that  I  shall  ever  be  in  want  of  horses? 
Ni  que  Dios  quiera  /  (Not  even  if  God  Almighty 
wished  it !) "  he  blasphemously  added.  Two  years 
later,  the  witness  to  this  impious  boast  was  again  on 
his  way  to  the  Llanos:  near  San  Juan  he  met  an  old 
num,  apparently  in  a  very  destitute  condition,  riding 
a  donkey.  Not  knowing  who  the  wayfarer  was,  he 
bowed,  as  is  customary,  and  rode  on  without  taking 
further  notice  of  the  old  man  or  liis  uncouth  equip- 
ment ;  whereupon  the  stranger,  Avaving  his  hand  to 
him,  cried,  "  AYhy,  General,  have  you  already  for- 
gotten your  friend  Torralva?  "  He  that  "  giveth  and 
taketh  away  "  had  deprived  him  of  every  horse,  and 
the  once  wealthy  farmer  was  now  compelled  to  travel 
on  an  ass.  It  is  asserted  by  the  Llaneros  that  soon 
after  he  uttered  the  above-mentioned  blasphemy,  the 
Peste  broke  out  among  his  immense  stock,  from 
wlience  they  say  the  disease  spread  to  other  farms, 
until  the  contagion  became  general. 

It  is  not  a  little  singular  that  although  the  horse 


S4  TRAVELS  AND   ADVENTURES. 

was  unknown  to  the  aborigines  of  America,  at  the 
time  of  its  conquest,  the  researches  of  Darwin  and 
oUier  eminent  geologists  have  shown  them  to  have 
existed  in  vast  numbers  on  that  continent  contempora- 
neously with  the  Majitodon,  Megatherium,  Mylodon, 
and  other  extinct  animals.  ''  C'crtaiidy,  it  is  a  marvel- 
lous fact,  in  the  history  of  mammalia,"  observes  that 
assiduous  exj)lorcr,  "that  in  Soutli  America  a  native 
horse  should  have  lived  and  di>ai>i)eared,  to  be  suc- 
ceeded, in  after  ages,  by  the  countless  herds  descended 
from  the  few  introduced  by  the  Spanish  colonists!  " 

In  general  these  animals  are  of  middling  size,  and, 
like  their  progenitor,  tljc  Andalusian  horse,  endowed 
witli  a  fiery  spirit,  (if  not  checked  by  ill-treatment  or 
abuse,)  and  surprising  endurance,  esjKcially  during 
the  exciting  chase  of  wild  cattle,  when  they  are  kept 
ii\  constant  motion  for  manv  ronrie<Mitive  davs. 


§>....■. 


CHAPTER  VII. 


ACROSS     THE     PAMPAS. 


Early  in  the  iiiorning  of  the  fifth  day,  we  left  the 
i^anch  at  La  Yegiiera  to  journey  southward,  followed 
by  our  long  train  of  baggage  mules  and  relay  horses, 
our  good-natured  host  and  keeper,  Agapito,  escorting 
us  for  some  distance  in  the  double  capacity  of  guide 
and  entertainer.  "Without  his  assistance  it  would 
have  been  difficult  for  us  to  proceed  on  our  journey, 
which  lay  across  a  rolling  prairie,  covered  in  some 
places  by  magnificent  groves  of  tall  timber  trees  and 
a  vast  multitude  of  slender,  towering  palms,  which, 
by  the  glimmering  light  of  the  stars,  appeared  like  a 
mighty  fleet  of  ships  guarding  the  entrance  to  some 
giant  harbor.  Although  the  morning  was  dark,  and 
there  was  properly  speaking  no  road,  but  only  a 
beaten  track  branching  oft"  in  all  directions,  our 
guide,  who  knew  every  inch  of  the  ground,  led  us 
on  without  once  turning  to  the  right  or  left,  merrily 
chanting  some  of  the  lively  ballads  of  the  Llanos. 
Occasionally  he  was  joined  by  other  bards  equally 


80  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTLKES. 

distiiifrulslu'd  for  their  powers  of  voiee  and  verhifica- 
tion,  thus  produeing  very  animated  ehoruses  uf  a 
clmraeter  peculiarly  wild. 

As  the  sun  ruse  in  the  horizon,  we  eanie  upon 
another  extensive  plateau,  the  Mesa  del  Kai-tro, 
stretehin^  for  several  miles,  unbroken  by  a  single 
tree  or  shrub,  but  alive  with  numberless  herds  of 
cattle  roamin<;  in  all  directions,  while  lloeks  of  birds 
«tf  every  j>lumai:e,  all  new  to  me.  tlew  aliVijihted  at 
our  approach,  tillin<j:  the  air  with  their  wild,  peculiar 
cries.  Among  these,  the  Taro-taro,  a  large  bird  of 
the  Ibis  tribe,  which  derives  its  name  from  its  bell- 
like notes,  and  the  Carretero  or  carter,  a  beautiful 
Bpccies  of  goose  with  variegated  plumage  and  crimson 
bill,  particularly  attracted  my  attention.  The  latter 
is  named  tVom  the  rumbling  noise  it  njakes  when  on 
the  wing,  similar  in  sound  to  the  rumbling  of  cart- 
wheels on  hard  ground. 

Continuing  our  march  over  this  seemingly  inter- 
minable j»lain,  we  at  length  descried  in  the  hori/.oti 
the  village  t>i'  El  IJastro,  where  we  ]iuriH>sed  break- 
fasting and  spending  the  hottest  jiart  of  the  day.  We 
were  cordially  received  and  cntertaineil  at  the  house 
of  Sefior  Llo^cra,  a  wealthy  neighbor  <»f  ours,  whose 
lands  extended  from  the  southern  boundary  of  San 
Pablo  t(.  this  village. 

El  Kastro  is  noted  for  the  beauty  and  fresh  com- 
])lexion  of  the  women,  in  sjMte  of  an  ardent  diniate; 
and  the  males  lor  their  singular  ]iropcnsity  to  abstract 
the  hair  from  the  manes  and  tails  of  horses  sto]»ping 
at  their  village  This  they  often  j^ractisc  under  the 
very  noses  of  the  unfortimate  owm-rs,  for  the  pur}»ose 


ACU0?8   TlIK    PAMPAS.  87 

of  converting  it  into  lialtcrs  for  their  own  steeds. 
Thus  many  a  tine  animal,  -svliieh  is  supposed  to  bo  se- 
curely quartered  for  the  night,  is  found  next  morning 
so  shamefully  disfigured  that  lie  can  scarcely  be  rec- 
ognized by  his  owner,  -who  swears  by  all  the  saints 
in  the  calendar  to  take  summary  vengeance  on  the 
first  rant  re  ro*  who  may  chance  to  cross  his  path. 
FoiTunately  we  liad  no  cause  of  comi^laint,  as  our 
droves  were  constantly  under  the  surveillance  of  a 
dozen  or  more  vigilant  keepers,  perfectly  ato  fait  to 
the  peculiar  taste  of  that  community. 

The  beautiful  con)plcxion  of  the  women  is  the 
more  extraordinary  from  the  fiict  that  this  village, 
which  stands  on  the  southern  edge  of  the  plateau,  is 
entirely  exposed  to  the  glare  of  a  tropical  sun,  and  the 
hot  breezes  of  the  east.  I  nowhere  met  during  my 
journey,  such  rosy  cheeks  and  sparkling  eyes  as  in 
this  miserable  hamlet.  I  could  almost  fancy  them 
the  fairies  of  the  wilderness,  bewitching  the  unsus- 
pecting traveller,  while  their  perfidious  heljimates 
practise  their  rascally  tricks. 

These  high  terraces  possess  the  advantage  of  being 
free  from  those  noxious  exhalations  which  render  the 
plains  below  so  unhealthy  at  certain  seasons.  Owing 
to  the  nature  of  the  soil,  mostly  composed  of  a  loose 
conglomerate  or  shingle,  no  permanent  deposits  of 
stagnant  water  arc  formed,  endangering  the  health  of 
the  inhabitants,  who  are  often  blessed  with  a  "  green 
old  age "  and  the  possession  of  unimpaired  mental 
and  bodily  faculties.     Many  are  the  instances  where 

•  Eastrcro—a.  native  of  El  Rastro — literally,  a  mean  rogue. 


8K  TKAVKLS   AND    ADVENTLUHS. 

nu'ii  atiainin:,'  seventy  and  eighty  years  are  still  able 
to  take  j>art  in  the  hardy  ventures  of  the  eountry 
ah»n<;  witli  their  mure  youthful  ec)ni]>anions.  Among 
our  own  i>arty  we  had  several  individuals  of  this  class 
who,  after  exi)erii'neing  all  the  vieisfritudes  of  a  de- 
structive war,  hail  seen  many  a  hut  bummer  roll  hy, 
and  camped  out  amiilst  the  drenching  fhowers  of  the 
rainy  season,  ■without  any  material  change  in  their 
|>hysique.  Of  these  were  Santos  Nieves,  the  horse 
tamer,  whoso  only  f«>od  eoubi^ted  of  jerked  beef, 
cheese,  aud  jhijm  ion ,  tijKjn  which  he  had  thrived  ad- 
mirably up  to  the  age  of  seventy  ;  Crisostomo,  the 
negro  major  domo  of  San  Pablo,  who  luul  lost  all 
recollection  of  his  earlier  days;  Conrado,  the  horse 
driver,  whoso  age  and  e.\]>erience  in  conducting  o\ir 
rcfiactory  madrina^  had  entitled  him  to  the  revered 
ajipelation  of  taita  or  father.  But  the  most  extra- 
ordinary instance  of  longevity  which  has  come  to  my 
cars,  is  in  the  Monagas  family,  also  hailing  from  those 
regions,  the  age  and  number  of  whose  members  se- 
riously alarmed  the  rijniblic  at  one  time;  for  the 
multitude  of  their  rapaoiotis  demands  appeared  end- 
less, TIjo  patriarch  of  the  family  is  said  to  have  at- 
tained the  moderate  age  of  one  hundred  and  twenty 
years,  yet  was  able  to  scour  the  savannas  on  horse- 
back after  the  cattle  up  to  the  time  of  his  death.  The 
memorable  Jose  Tadeo,  the  late  Dictator  and  tyrant 
of  the  republic,  is  yet  in  his  prime  at  the  age  of 
seventy-nine,  while  his  brothers  Gregorio  and  Jose 
Francisco,  whose  vandalic  career  of  plunder  and  as- 
sassination was — happily  for  the  country  that  gave 
them  birth — cut  off    by    a    late  revolution,  did  not 


ACROSS   TIIK   PAMPAS.  39 

show  the  least  signs  of  unahateil  vigor  at  the  time  of 
their  death,  allhough  one  of  tlieni  was  eonsiderably 
okler  than  Tadeo.  And  hist,  though  not  least,  the 
renowned  zanibo  general,  Sotillo,  the  pet  hull-dog  of 
the  fiiniily,  to  whieh,  however,  he  hears  no  other  re- 
lationship than  that  existing  among  rogues  of  the 
same  stamp :  although  then  in  his  eightieth  year,  he 
was  able  to  carry  on  a  suceessful  partisan  warfare 
against  the  existing  government.  AVithout  a  roof  to 
shelter  him,  and  no  other  equipment  of  war  than  the 
lance  and  horse,  this  savage  chieftain,  for  such  he  is 
by  birth  and  education,  1ms  set  at  deiiance  all  the 
forces  sent  iu  his  pursuit,  and  nearly  brought  the 
country  to  the  verge  of  barbarism  in  his  strivings  to 
njdiold  the  iniquitous  claims  of  this  rapacious  family. 
Fierce  in  looks  and  menacing  in  tone,  with  a  head 
more  like  a  polar  bear  than  a  South  American  savage, 
he  has-  become  for  a  long  time  the  terror  of  the  eastern 
provinces,  which  are  in  constant  dread  of  his  sudden 
attacks — now  cutting  oft' small  detachments  of  troops 
and  defenceless  individuals,  now  retreating  to  his 
fastness  amidst  the  arid  plains  of  the  Alto  Llano  at 
the  approach  of  a  superior  force.  He  has  even  suc- 
ceeded in  defeating  such  on  two  or  three  occasions  by 
his  cunning  manrcuvring  and  the  rapidity  of  his 
movements.  During  half  a  century,  his  favorite  oc- 
cupation has  been  hunting  wild  cattle  and  waging  a 
guerilla  warfare  against  society,  which  too  often  has 
been  compelled  to  yield  to  the  savage  dimands  of 
this  Bedouin  of  the  Llanos. 

Having  partaken  of  a   substantial   breakfast,   we 


•JK  TKAVKkS   AM)    AUVK.NTL'Kl.S. 

V)!i»le  atliou  to  our  kimi  host,  and  airjiin  betook  our- 
jiclvcs  to  our  loM^  and  wi-ai  v  jdurnov  acrut«s  the  Tam- 
pttjj.  Descending  to  the  })lain,  stretching  lor  a  thou- 
sand miles  to  tlie  f«>ot  of  the  Bolivian  Andes,  we  at 
once  entered  into  an  entirely  ditTerent  country,  show- 
ing unujistakablc  proofs  of  a  diluvial  origin.  The 
tioil,  mostly  a  mixture  of  clay  and  sand,  no  longer 
(•Ifendcd  the  feet  of  our  horses  with  those  extensive 
beds  of  pebbles  so  trying  to  the  poor  beasts.  The 
vegetation,  also,  whenever  favored  by  some  accident 
t»f  the  ground,  showe«l  a  marke<l  diti'erence  in  charac- 
ter. The  thorny  mimosas,  wliich  only  thrive  in  a 
gravelly  soil,  here  di.-apj>earetl  altogether,  and  were 
replaced  by  den>e  groves  of  laurel  and  other  balsam- 
iferous  trees.  The  Copernicia  i»alm.s,  so  extensively 
used  for  thatching  and  other  economic  purposes,  re- 
appeared at  tii-st  in  a  few  6<'attered  clumps,  and  after- 
wards in  countless  multitudes,  literally  closing  the 
persi>ective  with  their  tall,  slender  trunks.  This 
beimtit'ul  palm  is  known  in  tlie  country  under  variojis 
names,  according  to  the  uses  made  of  its  Pei)arate 
])arts.  These  are  alnu»st  as  numerous  as  the  leaves 
of  its  dense,  symmetrical  foliage.  Tlius,  by  the  rural 
architect  of  the  Llanos,  it  is  calle<l  jnihn<i  d<'  rofiija — 
thatch  palm.  When  its  leaves  are  plaited  and  neatly 
braide<l  into  hat8  that  never  wear  out,  it  bears  the 
name  o(  jkiIhui  ih'  ttomhrrro  /  and  when  the  same  are 
employed  in  driving  off  the  myriads  of  flies  that  in- 
fest the  premises,  or  in  fanning  the  heate<l  dweller  in 
those  regions,  it  is  ciWrd  j}(ihnti  ahuniro ;  and  S(»  on 
through  a  long  catalogue. 

A  house  thatched  with  tliis  jialm  is  not  only  im- 


ACROSS  TUE  PAMPAS.  91 

pervious  to  the  pouring  showers  of  the  tropics,  but 
against  lire  also,  as  it  is  nearly  incombustible :  a  hot 
coal  dropped  on  it  will  only  burn  slowly  where  it 
falls,  without  spreading  or  raising  any  flame.  It  is, 
moreover,  very  durable  and  cool  throughout  the  hot- 
test months.  All  the  fences  and  corrals  of  the  region 
where  it  abounds  are  made  of  the  entire  trunks  of  this 
j>alm,  while  the  cattle  lind  a  grateful  shelter  under  its 
dense  shade.  The  slowness  of  its  growth,  observable 
even  after  centuries  have  elapsed,  is  another  curious 
peculiarity  of  this  palm.  "When  Europeans  iirst  pen- 
etrated this  wild  region,  they  found  extensive  tracks 
covered  with  low,  apparently  stunted  plants,  a  few 
inches  only  above  ground.  According  to  the  recol- 
lection of  the  oldest  inhabitants,  of  whom  there  are 
many  in  the  country,  as  I  have  already  stated,  these 
dwarfish  palm  forests  have  not  altered  very  percep- 
tibly during  their  lives.  It  must  therefore  have  taken 
a  full-grown  plant  thousands  of  years  to  attain  the 
height  of  twenty  feet,  which  is  their  average  size. 

Emerging  from  these  extensive  palmares — palm 
forests — we  again  found  ourselves  in  the  midst  of  the 
boundless  plain,  assuming  here  as  desolate  an  aspect 
as  if  fire  had  passed  over  its  entire  surface,  a  dreary 
waste  of  dricd-up  swamps,  parched  by  the  burning 
pun.  Dismal  tracts  of  these  teiTmieros^  as  they  are 
termed,  lay  before  us,  having  the  appearance  of  an 
extensive  honey-comb,  over  which  our  jaded  beasts 
stumbled  at  every  step,  increasing  our  weariness  to  a 
state  almost  bordering  on  desperation.  The  action  of 
the  rains  washing  the  earth  from  around  the  grass 
tufts,  which  are  afterwards  parched  and  hardened  by 


92  TU.VVKI-S   AND   ADVENTURES. 

the  lioat  of  tlio  sun,  leaves  the  surface  of  the  proiiiid 
covered  witli  numerous  little  eluiii|>s  of  iiuiurati-tl 
clav,  bo  elo.-'ely  j'acketl  that  thero  wiui  no  looting  for 
the  animals. 

Even  the  eattlc  seemed  to  have  fon^akeii  this  in- 
liosjiitablu  region,  for,  with  the  exeeption  of  a  few 
stragglers,  there  were  no  feigns  of  aninuition.  Mo>t 
of  the  cattle  are  transferred  at  this  reason  to  the  fer- 
tile shores  of  the  Ai»ure  and  rortugmsa;  or  they 
abandon  of  their  own  aeeord  these  diiarv  wastes  for 
W('ll-kn«»wn  streams  where  they  allay  their  thirst. 
Ours  was  intense  i»n  this  oecasion,  while  the  tantaliz- 
ing mirage,  that  singular  atmospheric  phenomenon  so 
peculiar  to  arid  deserts,  haunted  us  incessantly  with 
its  rii>j»ling,  vajKiry  phantom,  a  feeling  in  which  <»ur 
poor  beasts  seemed  to  jiarticipate,  as  with  outstretched 
necks  and  ears  they  snufled  in  vain  the  far  horizon  in 
search  of  the  reviving  element,  liy  an  unpar(h»nable 
oversight,  our  men  had  neglected  to  till  their  gourds 
with  water,  and  now  we  felt  the  want  of  it. 

These  scenes  have  been  described  so  gra])hically 
by  the  eloquent  jn-n  of  Humboldt,  in  his  "  Tal)leaux 
de  la  Nature,"  that  1  will  not  attempt  it  further,  but 
refer  my  reader  to  the  following : 

''  When  under  the  vertical  rays  of  the  nevcr- 
cloiidid  siin.  the  carbonized  tufty  covering  falls  into 
dust,  the  indurated  soil  cracks  asunder  as  if  from  the 
shock  of  an  cartlnpiake.  If  at  such  times  two  oppos- 
ing currents  of  air,  whose  conflicts  prmlucc  a  rotary 
motion,  come  in  contact  with  the  soil,  the  jdain  a.s- 
sumes  a  strange  ami  singular  aspect.  Like  conical- 
sluiiHHl  cloud^,  the  ])ointu  of  which  descend  to  the 


ACROSS  TUE  PAMPAS.  93 

earth,  tlic  sand  rises  throuirli  the  raritied  air  in  the 
clecrtrieally  char<^ed  centre  of  tlie  whirling  eiin-ent, 
resembling  the  loud  Avaterspout  dreaded  by  the  ex- 
periencud  mariner.  Tlie  lowering  sky  sheds  a  dim, 
almost  straw-colored  light  on  the  desolate  plain ;  the 
horizon  draws  suddenly  near;  the  steppe  seems  to  con- 
tract, and  with  it  the  heart  of  the  wanderer.  The  hot, 
dusty  particles  which  fill  the  air,  increase  its  suffocating 
heat,  and  the  east  wind  blowing  over  the  long-heated 
soil  brings  with  it  no  refreshment,  but  rather  a  still 
more  burning  glow.  The  pools,  which  the  yellow, 
fading  branches  of  the  fan  pahn  had  protected  from 
evaporation,  now  gradually  disappear.  As  in  the  icy 
m^rth  the  animals  become  torpid  with  cold,  so  here, 
under  the  influence  of  the  parching  drought,  the  croco- 
dile and  the  boa  become  motionless  and  fall  asleep, 
deeply  buried  in  the  dry  mud.  Everywhere  the  death- 
threatening  drought  prevails,  and  yet,  by  the  play  of 
the  refracted  rays  of  light  producing  the  phenomenon 
of  the  mirage,  the  thirsty  traveller  is  everywhere  pur- 
sued by  the  illusive  image  of  a  cool,  rippling,  watery 
mirror.  The  distant  palm  bush,  apparently  raised  by 
the  influence  of  the  contact  of  unequally  heated,  and 
therefore  unequally  dense  strata  of  air,  hovers  above 
the  ground,  fiom  which  it  is  separated  by  a  narrow 
intervening  margin."'  ^ 

Indeed,  so  perfect  was  this  illusion  of  the  mirage, 
that  on  one  occasion  Mr.  Thomas  and  myself  were  en- 
tirely deceived  by  the  appearance  of  a  beautiful  lake 
which  we  prepared  to  sketch.  But  what  was  oui-  sni- 
l>rise  when,  on  climbing  a  tree  to  obtain  a  better  view, 
the  phantom  disappeared  as  if  by  magic  !    This  occurs 


/ 


94  TUAVELS  ANU   ADVENTL'Klii. 

wlienever  tlit-  Pj>ectator  i)laces  himself  above  the  line 
of  the  natural  horizon. 

At  lenj;th  we  reached  a  tsolitary  jtuul  of  muddy 
water  in  the  midst  of  the  eavanna,  which  was  hailed 
with  joy  hy  man  and  beast ;  but,  on  nearer  inspec- 
tion, the  thirsty  travellers  were  seized  with  disgust 
and  disapiMiintnient  on  seeing  several  dead  and  dying 
animals  embedded  in  the  mud.  These  quajrmires 
form  extensive  barriers  in  some  i>laees,  especially  in 
dried-up  creeks  where  hundreds  of  animals  j»eri>h 
every  year,  beinp  unable  to  extricate  themselves  from 
the  adhesive  (juality  of  the  day.  At  <tur  apjtroach 
two  hideous  alli<rators  rushed  into  the  p<»nd,  and  thus 
the  scanty  portion  that  liad  not  been  disturbed  by 
the  tramping  of  animals  was  in  a  moment  thickened 
like  the  rest.  However,  there  being  no  other  alter- 
native, we  were  compelled  to  follow  the  cxamj)le  of 
our  sturdy  Llanerns,  who  j)roceeded  without  much 
consideration  to  di]>  their  calabashes  into  that  sjK'cies 
of  mud  soup ;  then  covering  the  mouths  of  the  totu- 
inas  with  <»ur  handkerchiefs,  we  sucked  through  them 
this  miserable  substitute  for  water. 

About  noon  we  descried  a  speck  in  the  horizon, 
lof)king  like  a  sail  at  sea.  Increasing  in  size  as  wo 
neared  it,  it  so«m  appeare<l  to  be  a  solitary  mound  or 
]»romontory  ;  by  degrees  it  assumed  more  di.'-tinct- 
ness,  finally  presenting  to  our  view  all  the  luxuri- 
ance of  trojiical  vegetation.  Tliis  was  the  ^fata  de 
San  Pedro,  a  sort  of  island  grove  of  s])lendid  forest 
trees,  which,  like  a  veritable  oa>is,  st<»od  in  the  mid.-t 
of  those  desert  ]>hiins,  :i  relief  to  the  ))arche(l  and 
wayworn  traveller.     Mtiia   is  the  name  by  which  tho 


ACROSS  TUE  PAMPAS.  95 

natives  designate  these  lovely  gems  of  the  Pampas, 
no  less  cherished  tlian  are  those  of  the  famed  African 
Desert  by  the  -wearied  caravan ;  like  them,  they  re- 
ceive appropriate  names  from  some  peculiarity  of 
feature  or  other  trivial  cause,  as  Mata  Gorda,  Mata 
Eedonda,  &e.  But  whatever  be  the  name,  all  hail 
with  joy  these  verdant  bowers,  a  cool  retreat  to  every 
species  of  animal  in  summer,  and  a  safe  refuge  during 
the  season  of  floods,  for,  being  somewhat  higher  than 
the  surrounding  country,  they  are  rarely  overflowed 
by  the  periodical  inundations. 

It  was  entirely  dark  on  our  arrival  at  the  Mata, 
and  we  were  then  so  weary  that  there  was  little  in- 
clination evinced  to  make  any  preparations  for  sup- 
per, and  we  were  also  greatly  in  need  of  water.  Al- 
though the  earth  was  parched  by  the  long  drought, 
Providence  has  placed  a  few  feet  below  the  surface 
an  unlimited  supi)ly  of  the  purest  water.  This  can 
be  obtained  at  any  time  by  merely  digging  for  it 
with  a  wooden  pole  shai*pened  at  one  end.  In  the 
present  instance  we  were  spared  this  trouble,  as  some 
of  our  people,  well  acquainted  with  the  place,  knew 
where  one  of  these  primitive  wells  could  be  found. 
Our  first  business,  therefore,  was  to  seek  for  the  jaf/Uct/ 
in  spite  of  the  deadly  rattlesnakes  said  to  abound 
there.  From  this  we  obtained  suflicient  water  for 
ourselves  and  riding  horses,  the  other  animals  being 
left  to  shift  for  themselves,  always  nnder  the  close 
vigilance,  however,  of  the  watchmen  appointed  for 
the  night.  Tliese  mun  had  a  hard  task  :  apart  from 
the  fatigue  of  keeping  awake  and  on  horseback  all 


t<(J  TICAVi;i>S    AM)    AKVKNTUKKS. 

night,  thfv  wt'if  in  constant  fear  of  a  tin«l>i. n  hi  ;:ii- 
puile  among  the  honje«,  which  not  unl're<}ueutlv  oi- 
eiir*.  To  provide  against  a  contretemps  of  the  w>rt, 
those  in  immediate  use  were  eccured  nightly  hy  straj'S 
attached  t«)  the  feet,  whicli  prevented  their  straying 
far  from  tiie  camp. 

We  rose  very  early,  judging  from  the  height  of 
the  /.uct't'o  or  morning  star — which  in  those  solitudes 
takes  the  pla(;e  of  town  clock — whose  lirilliancy  alnK»st 
cipials  that  of  the  full  moon.  1  nowhere  recollect 
having  seen  this  gorgcnjus  luminary  of  morning  shed 
sucli  radiant  streams  of  light  as  in  the  ever-cloudless 
sky  of  the  Llanos  during  the  summer  months.  In 
equal  proportion  all  the  other  heavenly  hoilics  seem 
there  to  vie  with  each  other  in  heightening  the  splen- 
dor of  that  glorious  firmament,  cheering  the  heart  of 
the  wanderer  who  tinds  himself,  like  the  mariner  on 
the  high  seas,  encompassed  only  l»y  the  vault  of 
heaven,  whose  glowing  lamjis  were  then  our  unerring 
guide  towards  the  south,  cnal)ling  us  to  dispense  with 
compass  or  any  landmarks  by  which  to  direct  our 
course.  Towards  evening,  we  deviated  a  little  from 
it,  lioping  to  reach  a  cattle-farm,  intending  to  pa^^ 
the  night  there;  but  our  horses  being  almost  ex- 
hausted from  the  roughness  of  the  ground.  com]>cllc<l 
us  to  stoj)  by  the  banks  of  a  treeless  creek  abounding 
in  alligators;  this  we  knew  by  the  strong  odor  of 
musk  which  ]>crva<led  the  air.  In  sjute  of  their  prox- 
imity, which  made  mo  start  more  than  once  in  my 
dreams,  we  slept  soumHy  in  our  ponchos  on  the  hard 
ground,  for  want  of  trees  from  which  to  sling  oui 
hammocks,     lliis  lack  of  firewood  conjpelled  us  also 


ACROSS  THE  PAMPAS.  97 

to  go  siii>perless  that  night  and  without  broahtiist 
next  morning.  After  a  long  search  we  tinally  suc- 
ceeded in  collecting  a  handful  of  drift  wood  afong  the 
banks  of  the  creek,  enabling  Monico  to  make  us  a 
stimulating  cup  of  colfee  in  which  to  "drown  our 
sorrows." 

^lidduy  brought  us  to  the  cattle-farm  we  were  in 
quest  of,  Mhcn  immediate  preparations  were  made  for 
an  ample  meal,  which  should  compensate  us  for  pre- 
vious privations.  The  overseer  informed  us  that  not 
tar  from  the  house  was  a  herd  of  cattle  bearing  our 
brand.  Thither  we  despatched  two  men  in  search  of 
the  fattest  among  them.  In  a  short  time  they  re- 
turned with  a  line  cow,  which  was  speedily  slaugh- 
tered and  spitted  before  a  blazing  fire  kindled  under 
three  stupendous  mimosa  trees  bearing  flat,  kidney- 
shaped  legumes  or  pods  six  inches  in  circumference. 
Our  hunger  appeased,  we  spread  our  ponchos  under 
the  shade  of  these  giants  of  the  vegetable  world,  and 
slept  until  noon,  when  we  were  again  in  our  saddles 
prosecuting  the  journey  through  a  less  monotonous 
landscape.  The  plain,  although  still  preserving  the 
same  rough  character,  was  diversified  with  groves  of 
other  leguminous  trees,  (Canafistulos,)  the  pods  of 
which  were  nearly  three  feet  in  length,  and  contain  a 
black  pulp  valuable  as  a  cathartic. 

Towards  evening  we  were  gratified  by  seeing,  for 
the  first  time,  that  splendid  sjiectacle,  a  prairie  on 
fire.  The  grass,  parched  with  the  burning  sun,  is 
purposely  fired  by  the  natives  to  proii^ote  the  growth 
of  the  new  crt)p,  which  last,  owing  to  the  lieavy  dews, 
starts  long  before  the  rainy  season  sets  in.  The  cou- 
5 


}>S  'lU\»ll.>    AMI    .\l>\  I.N  I  I  KKS. 

lliiL'iutioii  fxtoiulod  for  more  than  thru  ...,>.  :^,  ,< 
hti.  ii:;  evening  breezt*  driving  it  onwurtl  in  enriiiu: 
lit  n  liiMoNvs.  Vohnne<*  of  bnioki*  KiaUeil  with  bnrn- 
iiij;  [•urtieles  of  grinit»,  ujiecmled  in  ehnuis,  inireiu>ing 
the  ^'luncKur  uiid  heimty  ot"  tlie  i^fene  hv  their  various 
tints  of  re»l,  i»ink,  and  jmrph*,  din'n>ed  throngliout  tin- 
atnu»s|du're.  Aiih-d  hy  this  ilhuiiination,  we  wnr 
inahh'd  to  liiscovrr  a  t<olitary  ramh,  where  we  t:irri«<i 
tlie  nmaintU'r  of  the  night,  althougii  there  was  nolh 
ing  to  he  liad  there  in  the  shaite  of  etlihU>.  l-'ortni. 
ately  t»ne  of  «>ur  party  had  sliot  n  nnniher  of  wil.l 
(hirks  in  u  higiMin,  and  a  ]>rovi(hiit  individual  h.'xl 
savi'il  some  ehi>iee  niorsi-ls  of  the  ei>w.  There  \\;;> 
some  diflieulty  in  ]»ro<'uring  wood  enongli  for  a  tire, 
hut  a  eonple  of  rallers  from  the  ohl  ramh  afl'onli**! 
the  nei'dful  fuel,  and  thus  wc  were  ha|>i>ily  j»revfnti  «1 
{lasting  a  sni>j«irK>s,  as  well  a»s  eonit'orthsg  night. 

^lany  hours  hi-lore  dayhreak  we  were  again  i.j>. 
s.iddling  and  loading  tuir  aninuds,  which,  owing  t.» 
the  ilarkness,  was  always  the  most  irks«»me  ]»art  of 
the  j«)urney.  AVe  were,  however,  most  happy  t<»  hid 
adieu  to  the  solitary  ranch  with  its  myriudn  of  hat. 
the  onlv  teiumts  we  encountered  theiv. 


CIIAITKK    VIII. 

I-  A       I'  O  K  T  IJ  (i  U  i:  S  A  . 

AoAix  wc  wfjre  under  way,  and  u^^iiiii  our  oyos  en- 
counterud  only  the  fiat  monotonouH  plain  on  all  Kidew 
Huec'pin^  to  the  horizon,  varied  only  in  being  more 
barren,  rouglier,  and  consequently  more  cxhauKting  to 
our  horses  than  any  of  the  precedinf^.  Many  of  the 
liders  dismounted,  that  the  poor  brutes  might  be  re- 
lieved as  much  as  possible,  and  aeeoinplishcd  the  re- 
mainder of  tlie  journey  on  foot.  This  occasioned  a 
burning  thirst,  which  the  scant  fiupj)ly  of  water  in  our 
gourds  was  not  sulHcient  to  allay  ;  and  it  was  not  until 
no(jn  had  long  passed,  that  our  guides,  pointing  to  a 
blue  ridge  of  forest  in  the  distance,  infcjrnied  us  it 
marked  the  course  of  the  river  Portuguesa,  our  intcjnd- 
etl  lialting  place,  and  on  the  borders  of  which  we  pur- 
I)oscd  spending  several  days.  The  cavalcade,  inspir- 
ited by  this  view,  pressed  forward  as  rapidly  as  their 
exhausted  condition  would  j)ermit,  and  fortunately 
reached  the  pass  licfore  nightfall. 

This  beautiful  river  has  its  rise  in  the  mountains 


100  TRAVELS   AND   ADVENTURES. 

of  Tnijillo,  and  conncr-ts  the  fertile  i>rovince  o\  liiiii- 
1KI.S  with  the  hea,  thrnu/^h  the  Apiire  ami  (Jriiioeo, 
beiiij^  ill  fact  one  of  tlie  i»riiuii>al  tributaries  of  the 
former.  Its  eonimereial  advantaires,  as  may  be 
imairiued,  are  of  «;reat  imj»ortaiiee  to  the  interior  of 
a  e<»uiitry  j^o  distant  from  the  ocean,  and  whose  j>rin- 
cii>al  ]>roduets  consist  in  tlie  bulky  yield  of  the  plan- 
tations. It  is  navijrable  during  a  great  portion  of  the 
year,  especially  for  steam  vessels,  and  I  am  happy 
to  leani  that  the  great  civilizer  of  the  world — steam 
—  has  at  length  been  introduced  there  through  the 
enteri)ri>ing  energy  of  some  Yankee  specidators. 

The  banks  of  the  river,  being  both  high  and  ]'rc- 
cipitous,  a  jtassage  to  it  can  <»nly  be  accompli.-he<l  at 
certain  j)oint.s,  where  the  hand  of  man  and  the  tramp 
of  animals  have  cut  deep  trenches,  forming  paths  to 
the  water's  edge.  On  this  occasion,  we  sought  the 
pass  of  San  Jaime,  where  a  ferryman  is  statione<l  with 
a  canoe  to  take  across  any  who  desire  it.  Horses, 
bowevcr,  being  excellent  swimmers,  are  left  to  ferry 
themselves  over.  Our  fii-st  care  on  arriving  at  the 
pass  was  to  uidoad  our  beasts  of  burden,  and  unsaddle 
our  steeds  for  the  ])urpose  of  allowing  them  to  cool 
before  entering  the  water,  a  precaution  Mhich,  if  neg- 
lected, n<tt  unfrc(pi<ntly  provts  fatal  to  both  man  and 
beast.  Tliis  duty  fullllleil,  we  prcH-eeded  to  hail  the 
('(ino,/'o,  whoso  ranch  was  ]»erched  upon  the  south 
bank  of  the  river.  The  knowledge  that  he  would  ro- 
ceive  a  "real  "  for  every  man  and  beast  that  crosse<l. 
besides  various  ju'njuisitcs  from  passengers  whom  he 
8upplie«l  with  meals  during  their  sojourn  at  h\»  ranch, 
so  expedited  his  motions,  that  in  a  few  moment*  his  frail 


LA  PORTUGUESA.  101 

barge  received  its  first  load,  each  person  takino;  his 
own  cliattels  -with  him.  A  boy  of  fifteen,  naked  and 
sunbnrnt,  paddled  the  canoe,  while  the  ferryman 
steered  it  by  means  of  his  cimalctc.  The  utmost  care 
was  necessary  to  prevent  the  overturn^  of  the  crazy 
skitf,  which  reeled  at  every  stroke  of  the  ]>addle, 
threatenini?  to  pitch  all  its  contents  overboard.  As 
soon  as  we  landed  on  the  opposite  shore,  the  boat  re- 
turned for  a  second  load,  and  the  trips  were  repeated 
until  the  whole  party  had  crossed.  There  now  only 
remained  the  horses,  who  being  extremely  shy  of  deep 
M-ater,  required  to  be  forced  to  swim  across,  an  op~ 
eration  demanding  considerable  skill  on  the  part  of 
the  drivers.  The  only  way  was  to  give  them  an  ex- 
ample ;  accordingly  two  expert  swimmers,  divesting 
themselves  of  clothes,  jumped  upon  the  bare  back 
of  their  horses  and  plunged  incontinently  into  the 
stream.  Then,  sliding  oii'  to  one  side,  they  allowed 
the  horses  to  swim  without  encumbrance,  supporting 
tliemselves  with  one  hand  upon  the  animal's  haunches, 
while  with  the  other  they  guided  them  by  means  of 
a  halter.  Meanwhile,  those  that  remained  on  shore 
set  up  a  tremendous  shouting  and  yelling,  at  the  same 
time  shaking  their  ponchos  violently  with  the  intent 
to  frighten  all  the  rest  of  the  troop  down  the  steep 
embankment,  where,  encouraged  at  the  sight  of  the 
two  ahead,  they  all  entered  the  stream  and  followed 
tlu'ir  leaders  without  further  difficulty.  Several  large 
crocodiles,  who  had  watched  all  these  proceedings 
from  the  middle  of  the  river,  alarmed  by  the  confu- 
sion, disajipeared  from  view,  and  then  the  heads  only 
of  the  leaders  and  their  steeds  rose,  puffing  and  snort- 


102  TUAVhLS   AND    AUVtMLKtS. 

ing,  above  wuter.  In  Bjtite,  however,  of  all  tlie  \)\y- 
roar,  one  of  tlicse  ini'ii  was  instantly  attatketl  l»y  i;i- 
ribeij,  and  very  narrowly  escaped  serious  injury  Ironi 
them.  I  was  standing  at  the  time  on  the  oj)j>osite 
side  of  the  river,  watching  this  novel  mode  of  ferrying, 
and  observed  that  the  man,  abandoning  his  horbC, 
endeavored  to  reach  the  bank  by  l«»ng  strides,  occa- 
sionally lashing  himself  with  a  coiled  lazo  he  carried 
in  his  hand.  It  immediately  occurred  to  me  that  ho 
might  have  been  attacked  by  crocotliles,  a  belief 
which  was  strengthened  on  seeing  the  poor  fellow's 
sides  streaming  blood  as  he  stepped  upon  the  beach. 
My  first  apitrehen^ion  was  quickly  dispelled  by  his 
pointing  to  a  circular  wound  on  his  shoulder,  about 
the  size  of  a  cjuarter  dollar,  and  to  others  as  severe  on 
various  parts  of  his  body,  inllicted  by  caribes.  Had 
the  man  been  a  less  exj)ert  swimmer,  or  the  water  less 
agitated,  the  accident  would  undoubtedly  have  i»roved 
more  serious ;  as  it  Wiu-^,  we  were  c(»nsiderably  alarmed 
for  the  fate  of  the  other  man,  who,  however,  hai>]>ily 
escaped  unhurt. 

The  surpri.sing  boldness  of  these  diminutive  fish, 
naturally  increased  my  anxiety  to  examine  more  mi- 
nutely into  their  peculiarities,  than  I  had  yet  the  ojv 
jtortunity  of  doing.  I  therefore  determined  to  procure 
fresh  sjtecimens,  if  possible.  On  a  former  occa-sion  I 
had  lost  most  of  my  trout  ho<»ks,  but  I  still  ]>rescrved 
some  larger  ones,  mounted  with  copj»er  wire,  to  be 
used  in  the  rivers  of  the  Apure ;  these  I  supposed 
proof  against  the  teeth  of  any  tish,  and  no  sooner 
were  wo  established  in  the  ranch  of  the  ferryman, 
than,  taking  mv  lines  I  hastened  to  the  river  accom- 


LA  I'ORTUGUESA.  103 

panicd  by  my  Knij:;lisli  co-liiborcr,  the  artist.  The 
hooks  ■were  baited  with  pieces  of  fresh  l)eef,  and 
drop])ed  with  great  precaution  near  tlie  shore. 
Scarcely  did  the  bait  touch  the  water,  wlien  it  was 
seized  by  caribes.  Without  aUowiug  them  time,  as  it 
seemed,  to  get  the  whole  of  it  between  their  jaws, 
"we  pulled  in  the  lines,  but,  alas  !  minus  hooks,  as 
"svell  as  bait.  On  examination,  we  discovered  that 
one  of  the  hooks  had  been  cut  through,  while  the 
other  was  severed  from  the  wire.  Still,  we  persevered, 
but  invariably  with  the  same  unfortunate  result. 

Greatly  annoyed,  I  turned  to  question  a  Llanero, 
who  stood  near  laughmg  at  what  he  considered  my 
simplicity.  Another  tapped  me  gently  on  the  shoul- 
der, and  addressed  me  with  "  jVirw,  yon  might  as 
well  attempt  to  catch  a  rattlesnake  by  the  tail  "  (a 
favorite  expression  among  them)  "  as  to  think  of 
hooking  one  of  those  chaps."  What  is  to  be  done, 
then  ?  for  I  must  have  at  least  a  couple  of  these 
scoundrels,  saiil  I.  "  AVho  ever  saw  a  genteel  young 
gentleman  like  yourself,  with  a  taste  for  such  disgust- 
ing creatures  ? "'  he  replied,  imagining  that  I  wanted 
them  for  eating.  On  my  explanation  that  my  object 
was  simply  to  sketch  and  preserve  them  in  spirits, 
they  advised  me  to  procure  a  piece  of  tough  skin  from 
the  liead  of  an  ox  wlifch  was  then  being  slaughtered, 
and  to  suspend  it  from  a  strip  of  the  same  material. 
I  innnediately  followed  their  instructions,  and  shortly 
repaired  again  to  the  river.  Seating  myself  on  the 
stem  of  the  canoe,  which  was  moored  across  the 
stream,  I  dru]ii>ed  my  novel  bait  into  the  wati-r,  and 
watched  fur  the  result  with  the  utmost  interest.     In 


104  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES. 

a  moment  a  i-hoal  of  caribes  collected  around  the  bait 
and  commenced  attacking  it  voracioUbly.  Finding 
tliu  thick  cartilufre  too  touj;h  even  for  their  sliarj» 
teeth,  and  unwilling  to  give  it  up,  they  continued 
gnawing  at  it  like  lio  many  little  hyenas.  AVhcn  I 
imagined  them  to  be  fairly  ''  8tuek  ''  through  the 
thick  hkin,  I  lifted  the  whole  conceni  over  the  side 
of  ^lie  can<»e,  and  had  the  satihfaction  of  (?eeing  about 
a  dozen  <jf  the  fish  dancing  at  the  bottom  of  my  barge. 
Finding  this  novel  j^tyle  of  fishing  rather  easy  and 
entertaining,  I  continued  it  until  I  was  suddeidy  a])- 
l)rised  into  whose  comj>any  I  had  thrust  myself  by 
feeling  the  heel  of  my  left  foot  seized  by  one  of  the 
captives  with  such  violence  as  caused  me  to  drop  my 
bait,  with  the  vicious  creatures  that  were  hanging 
from  it,  into  the  river.  My  only  thought  now  was 
how  to  contrive  my  escape,  having  the  whole  length 
of  the  canoe  to  traverse,  and  its  flttor  paved  with 
these  ravenous  little  wretches.  My  first  impulse  was 
to  sjiring  overboard  ;  but  a  moment's  reflection  con- 
vinced me  that  it  would  be  a  jump  from  the  "  frying 
]»an  into  the  fire."  Placed  thus,  as  it  were,  between 
Scylla  and  Charybdis,  I  again  ajijicaled  to  the  inge- 
nuity of  my  former  advisers  for  deliverance.  This 
they  readily  accomplished  by  a  very  simjde  contriv- 
ance, ('(insisting  of  a  gunny  bag,  which  they  spread 
over  the  gajiing  draught  of  fish.  In  a  moment  their 
gharjt  teeth  were  again  at  work,  this  tinie  am«»ng  the 
tough  fibres  of  the  bag,  to  which  they  clung  with  the 
tenacity  of  bull-dogs,  thus  enabling  us  to  fish  them 
out  again  without  ditliculty. 

My  biting  cxjierienee  of  tlle^e  little   jiests  left    lue 


LA  PORTUGUESA.  105 

ih  no  mood  to  spare  them,  ami  I  never  missed  an  op- 
portunity of  provoking  a  bloody  conflict  among  them, 
"With  this  view  I  made  it  my  daily  bnsiness  to  scatter 
pieces  of  flesh  in  the  river,  which  never  failed  in  at- 
tracting great  numbers  to  the  spot.  These  devoured 
the  meat  in  a  few  moments,  after  which,  being  them- 
selves of  a  red  hue,  and  mistaking  each  other  for  the 
meat,  they  continued  the  feast  by  devouring  one 
another,  until  few  of  them  remained  alive.  Thus  I 
aceomi)lished  my  revenge  upon  these  cannibals  of  the 
finny  tribe.  The  pike  and  the  caribe  are,  I  believe, 
the  only  fish  which  devour  those  of  their  own  species 
when  disabled.  '*  As  no  one  dares  to  bathe  where  it 
is  foimd,"  remarks  Humboldt  in  his  travels,  "  it  may 
be  considered  as  one  of  the  greatest  scourges  of  those 
climates,  in  which  the  sting  of  the  mosquitoes  and  the 
general  irritation  of  the  skin,  render  the  use  of  baths 
so  necessary." 

Fortunately  for  mankind,  these  fish  are  subject  to 
a  yearly  mortality  during  the  heats  of  summer,  when 
the  water  is  deprived  of  a  portion  of  the  air  it  holds 
in  solution.  Their  carcasses  may  then  be  seen  float- 
ing on  the  water  by  thousands,  while  the  beach  is 
strewn  with  their  bones,  especially  their  bristling 
jaws,  which  render  walking  barefoot  on  the  borders 
of  lagoons  extremely  dangerous. 

To  judge  from  the  incessant  turmoil  in  the  river 
at  all  hours  of  the  night,  besides  evident  proofs  of 
their  depredations  during  the  day,  I  concluded  that 
the  havoc  they  commit  on  the  other  denizens  of  the 
water  must  be  very  great.  Even  the  armor-clad 
crocodiles  aro  not  exempt  from  their  attacks,  when 


106  TKAVELS  AND  ADVENTLUi:S. 

woundotl  ill  tlioirown  (luarrels,  as  they  Bometimes  arc, 
durin«^  the  scukou  of  their  loves,  for  even  crocodiles  are 
subject  to  jealousy,  that  other  *'  green-eyed  monster."  ^ 
The  "NVaraun  Indians,  whom  the  first  tribe  of 
cannibals,  the  Caribs,  comj)elled  years  ago  to  seek  u 
refuge  among  the  flooded  lands  of  the  great  Delta  of 
the  Orinoco  river,  and  who  in  consequence  live  in  huts 
raised  on  posts  above  the  water,  without  even  the 
allotted  sjiacc  of  dry  ground  to  deposit  their  mortal 
remains,  have  adopted  the  curious  custom  of  preserv- 
ing the  bones  of  their  deceased  relations  suspended 
from  the  roof  of  their  aerial  dwellings  ;  but  having  ni> 
skilful  anatomists  among  themselves  to  slriji  the  body 
of  the  n)oro  j>eri^hable  Iksh,  they  avail  themselves  of 
the  voracious  habits  nf  this  fish  for  so  essential  a  ])er- 
formance.  For  this  purjiose  they  tie  the  corpse  with 
a  strong  rope,  and  plunge  it  in  the  water,  securing 
the  other  end  of  the  rope  to  one  of  the  i)illars  upon 
which  their  dwellings  rest  :  in  less  than  twenty-four 
hours  the  skeleton  is  hauled  out  of  the  water  perfectly 
clean,  for  the  teeth  of  the  caribe  have  stripped  it  of 
flesh,  arteries,  tendons,  etc.  Now  all  that  the  mourn- 
ers have  to  do  is  to  separate  the  bones,  which  they 
arrange  with  much  care  and  nicety  in  baskets  madr 
for  the  jmrpose,  gaudily  ornamented  with  beads  of  va- 
rious colors  ;  and  so  well  have  they  calculated  before- 
hand the  sj)acc  the  bones  will  occupy  in  the  funereal 
urn,  that  the  skull,  tightly  adjusted  against  the  sides 
of  the  basket  at  top,  comes  to  be  the  lid  of  it. 

•  The  oyc8  of  crocodiles  are  green. 


LA   rOUTLGUESA.  107 

During  the  annual  inundation  of  tlie  savannas, 
^v]lon  quadrupeds  perish  by  thousands  in  the  vernal 
dclug-e,  the  caribes  have  ample  field  for  their  voracity  ; 
but  living  animals  are  not  exempted,  for  they  prey 
with  equal  fierceness  upon  the  young  calves  when 
wading  through  the  marshes,  and  upon  the  mothers, 
whose  udders  they  so  mutilate,  that  the  young  ones 
fre(|uently  perish  from  lack  of  nourishment.  The 
])oor  cattle  lead  about  this  season  a  truly  miserable 
life.  Those  that  escape  the  teeth  of  the  caribe,  the 
coil  of  the  anaconda,  that  great  water  serpent,  or  the 
jaws  of  the  equally  dreaded  crocodile,  are  in  contin- 
ual danger  of  falling  a  prey  to  the  lion  or  the  jaguar, 
while  congregated  upon  the  hancos  and  other  places 
left  dry  amidst  the  rising  waters.  None,  however, 
escape  the  tormenting  sting  of  myriad  insects  which, 
until  the  waters  subside,  fill  the  air  they  breathe. 
Even  at  night,  when  all  created  beings  should  rest  in 
peace,  enormous  vampires,  issuing  from  the  gloomy 
recesses  of  the  forest,  perch  upon  the  backs  of  the 
sufferers  and  suck  their  life  blood,  all  the  while  lull- 
ing them  with  the  flapping  of  their  sinirious  wings. 
In  fact,  it  seems  as  if  in  these  regions  all  the  elements 
conspired  against  these  useful  creatures  ;  for,  after 
these  varied  evils  have  abated  with  the  return  of  the 
dry  season,  the  hand  of  man  is  also  continually  against 
them  in  harassing  hunts,  or  in  firing  the  v\-^q  pastures 
which  sweep  their  realms  in  devastating  fury,  driving 
tlicm  in  consternation  from  the  fields  of  their  enjoy- 
ment. 

The  crocodiles  of  this  river  are  noted  for  being  the 
most  savage  and  daring  in  the  Llanos.     Although         \ 


108  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES. 

usually  jJtylcil  ytliow  cayinnns,  to  ilistinfruibh  tlicni 
Iroiu  the  comujoii  alIi<4iitor,  which  is  oi  a  darker  hue, 
tlu'V  air  in  I'art  real  cTocodilos,  with  an  acute  puout, 
like  those  inhabiting;  the  Nile  and  other  cclehrnted 
rivers  of  Africa. 

While  walkin*;  alon^  the  Itanks  <•!  ilie  i'<»rtn;rn(  ;>:i, 
one  may  nee  the.-e  hu<:e  lizards  collected  in  p-oups  of 
half  a  dozen  or  more,  haskint;  in  the  t^unshine  near 
the  water,  with  their  jaws  wide  fipen  until  their 
ghastly  ]»alate>  are  tilled  with  Hies  or  <»ther  creatures 
dlitxhtin«;  within  them.  We  tried  in  vain  (-hooting 
them  with  pins;  the  n'i»tilew  were  so  wary,  that  the 
niouK'nt  we  took  aim  they  rutheil  into  tlie  water, 
liein*?  at  a  loss  how  to  procure  a  subject  for  my  j»en- 
eil,  I  sought  the  advice  of  an  (»ld  man.  an  an«rler  by 
profession,  who  lived  in  one  <tf  the  huts  near  the  river. 
Ileafrreedto  let  me  have  his  canoe  with  his  son  to 
j)addle  it,  and  the  requisite  number  of  hari>oons.  pro- 
vidiiiiT  I  could  obtain  the  a.^sistanee  of  an  Indian  boy 
from  the  neiirhborhood,  who  was  a  ca]>ital  marksman 
with  the  bow  and  arrow.  '*  What  I  "  I  exclalme<l  in 
astonishment,  "  do  we  exjiect  to  kill  one  of  the.^e 
monsters  with  so  slight  a  thini;  as  an  arrow  < " 
"  No,  Sei'ioritt*,''  he  calmly  answered  ;  '*  but  yon 
must  first  know  where  to  find  him  under  water 
before  you  can  strike  him  with  the  harjmon  ;  the 
arrow  of  which  I  sjieak  is  the  kind  we  use  in  catchincr 
turtles."  These  arrow.s  are  constructed  so  as  to  allow 
the  head,  atlixeil  to  the  shaft  somewhat  in  the  nninner 
of  a  lance,  ti»  come  off  the  moment  it  strikes  an  obje«t 
in  the  water.     A  blender  cord,  several  feet  in  length, 


LA   rORTUGUESA.  109 

connects  it  with  tlic  sliail,  which  last  is  made  of  a 
light,  buoyant  reed  ;  around  this  the  cord  is  wound 
closely  until  it  reaches  the  point  where  the  head  is, 
then  fastened  securely.  The  shaft  being  extremely 
light,  floats  on  the  surface  of  the  water  the  moment 
it  is  set  free  from  the  head  by  the  struggles  of  the  an- 
imal, thus  acting  as  u  guide  for  its  recovery. 

The  old  angler  then  proceeded  to  exi>lain  that  the 
operation  must  be  conducted  first  by  sending  one  of 
these  arrows  into  the  body  of  the  crocodile  to  mark 
his  position  under  water  ;  and  then,  if  practicable,  we 
might  plunge  a  harpoon  into  the  only  vulnerable  spot 
we  could  hope  to  reach,  viz.,  the  nape  of  the  neck, 
after  which  the  animal  could  be  easily  dragged  on 
shore  by  means  of  strong  ropes  attached  to  the  har- 
poon. 

Accordingly,  I  went  in  search  of  the  Indian  boy, 
wlu^n  I  found  under  a  tree,  seated  like  a  toad  on  his 
haunches,  skinning  a  porcupine  he  had  just  killed. 
At  my  approach  he  raised  his  head  and  fixed  on  me 
his  unmeaning  eyes.  When  spoken  to,  he  only  re- 
plied to  all  my  questions  with  the  monosyllables,  si, 
no.  After  a  little  coaxing,  and  the  pi'omise  of  some 
fish  hooks,  he  followed  me  to  the  canoe  without  ut- 
tering a  word  more.  "We  were  not  long  in  getting  a 
chance  to  test  the  skill  of  my  new  accpiaintance.  As 
we  approached  the  river  banks,  a  large  crocodile  hove 
in  sight,  floating  down  the  stream  like  a  log  of  wood. 
Our  i)osition  was  most  favorable  to  send  an  aiTow 
rattling  through  his  scales,  and  my  young  Nimrod 
lost  no  time  in  imj>roving  the  opportunity.  Stci>ping 
a  few  paces  in  advance,  and  bending  gracefully  over 


110  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTUKES. 

the  precipice,  he  let  fly  at  the  reptile's  head  hi>  tlcn- 
der,  yellow  rceil,  jwr  tlcvacion^  vir.,  Bhootinj;;  the 
arrow  up  into  the  air  at  an  anjjle  of  f(»rty-tive,  whicii 
causes  it  to  descend  with  ^reat  force  upon  the  ohject, 
after  describin*^  an  are  of  a  circle  in  the  manner  of  a 
boinh-shell.  AlthoU'rh  the  distance  was  fully  three 
hundred  j)aces,  the  arrow  struck  the  mark  with  the 
preeibion  of  a  rifle  ball.  A  vioKnt  jdunge  of  tht- 
huj^e  re])tile  was  my  first  intimation  that  the  trial  had 
been  succeastul,  and  a  moment  after  I  perceived  the 
golden  reed,  now  attached  to  him,  hkimming  swiftly 
over  the  surface  of  the  water.  We  hastened  for  the 
canoe,  and  immeiliately  gave  chase  up  the  htream.  as 
the  crocodile  had  taken  that  direction.  We  were 
rajtidly  gaining  upon  him,  when,  alarmed  at  the  sound 
of  the  paddles,  he  sunk  in  very  deep  water,  as  was  in- 
dicated l»y  the  reed.  This  circumstance  rendered  it 
imj^ossible  to  employ  our  harpoon.  We  tried  in  vain 
to  start  him  ;  he  stuck  to  the  nniddy  b«»ttom  whence 
neither  ]>ulls  nor  curses  could  move  him.  We  hoi»e<l 
that  in  time  he  would  come  to  the  surface  to  breathe, 
and  then  we  might  strike  him  with  a  harpoon  ;  but 
in  this  we  were  e«|ually  disajtpointed.  After  waiting 
for  him  two  hours,  we  gave  him  uj),  along  with  tli» 
arrow  head  sticking  in  his  own. 

I  made  various  other  attempts  to  secure  a  speci- 
men, but  with  no  better  result,  as  the  river  was  yet 
too  high  to  sound  for  them. 

While  in  this  ])lace,  I  was  told  several  incidents 
in  relation  to  the  cunning  and  instinct  of  these  sau- 
rians,  one  of  which  ajtpeared  to  me  most  remarkable 
in  an  animal  of  the  reptile  tribe.     The  ferryman  here 


L\   rORTUGUESA  HI 

possessed  at  oiu*  time  a  great  many  g'oats.  One  day 
lie  perceived  tliat  several  of  them  liad  disaj>peared, 
and  iu)t  being  able  to  account  for  it  in  any  other  way, 
he  at  once  laid  the  blame  on  the  hated  crocodiles, 
although  these  creatures  seldom  carry  their  attacks 
beyond  their  own  element.  Ilis  suspicions,  he  dis- 
covered in  the  end,  were  well  founded,  having  wit- 
nessed the  destruction  of  one  of  his  goats  in  a  very 
singular  manner.  It  appeared  that  a  crocodile  had  in 
some  mysterious  way  discovered  that  goats  delight  in 
jumping  from  place  to  place,  but  more  especially 
from  rocks  or  mounds.  Kocks,  hoM'cver,  being  rather 
scarce  in  the  country,  their  treacherous  enemy  under- 
took to  gratify  their  taste  for  this  innocent  pastime, 
and  at  the  same  time  cater  to  his  own.  A2-)proaching 
the  water's  edge  to  within  a  few  feet  from  the  bank, 
he  swelled  out  his  back  in  such  a  manner  as  gave  it 
the  appearance  of  a  small  island  or  promontory.  The 
stupid  goats  perceiving  this,  varied  their  gambols  by 
iumi)ing  from  their  secure  places  on  shore  upon  the 
seeming  island,  which  they,  however,  never  reached, 
for  the  crocodile,  tossing  up  his  head  at  the  right  in- 
stant, received  them  into  his  open  jaws,  and  swallowed 
them  without  difficulty. 

Crocodiles  have  a  special  penchant  for  dogs  also, 
and  never  miss  an  opportunity  of  gratifying  their 
taste  for  the  canine.  In  this,  however,  they  are  often 
balked  by  the  superior  cunning  of  their  intended  tit- 
bits. One  day  I  observed  a  couple  of  tiger-hounds 
quietly  enjoying  a  cool  bath  in  the  river.  Struck 
with  their  aj)parent  noyichalance  when  in  such  a  dan- 
gerous proximity,  I  found  on  inquiry  that  these  an- 


112  TRAVELS    AM)    Al)\  KNTl'lihlS. 

iiiiuls  never  ai>j'n»acli  the  wat<T,  either  to  drink  or  to 
bathe,  without  previouhly  attraetiiifr  the  eroeodile»  hy 
means  of  repeated  howliii«;8  to  sonjc  distant  g|K»t. 
Tliis  instinct  of  tlie  dog  with  regard  to  crocodiles 
seems  to  be  ratlier  of  anticjue  date,  for  I  find  it  re- 
corded in  the  writings  of  both  ancient  and  modern 
travellers  in  different  parts  of  the  world. 

No  j)crson  can  venture  near  the  water  without 
danger  frotn  their  attacks,  being  so  treacherous  that 
they  aj)j)roach  their  intended  victim  near  enough  to 
btrike  him  with  their  j)owerful  tails  before  he  is  even 
aware  of  their  proximity.  The  bubbling  sound  of  a 
gourd  being  filled  in  the  water  by  some  iinjirudent 
person,  sj)ecially  attracts  them.  To  obviate  this 
danger,  a  calabash  bowl  with  a  long  wooden  handle  is 
usually  emplt»yed  for  the  jiuq^ose  ;  yet,  even  this  is 
not  unfretpiently  snatched  from  the  hands  of  the 
water-carrier.  If  by  accident  a  human  being  falls  a 
j>rey  to  this  tyrant  of  the  river,  the  reptile  is  then 
called  c<hiuh\  which  appellation  implies  every  thing 
that  is  bold,  ferocious,  and  treacherous  in  an  animal 
of  the  .«;pecies,  as  from  that  time  they  not  only  way- 
lay persons,  but  follow  them  in  the  canoes,  in  hopes 
of  again  securing  this  dainty  morsel.  There  are, 
however,  men  bold  enough  to  meet  the  enemy  face 
to  face  in  his  own  element.  The  man  who  makes  up 
Ills  mind  to  this  encounter  is  well  aware  that  this 
must  be  a  conllict  to  the  death  for  one  of  the  antago- 
nists. The  ferryman  related  to  us  a  feat  of  gallantry 
worthy  of  a  better  cause,  ])erfonned  here  by  a  Llanero 
with  one  of  these  monsters.  The  man  was  on  liis  way 
to  San  Jaime  on  a  pressing  errand.     Ileing  in  ha^te 


LA   PORTUGUESA.  113 

to  get  there  tlie  same  day,  lie  would  not  wait  for  the 
canoe  to  be  brought  to  hiui,  hut  prepared  to  swim 
across,  assisted  by  his  horse,  lie  had  already  secured 
his  saddle  and  clothes  upon  his  head,  as  is  usual  on 
similar  occasions,  when  the  ferryman  cried  out  to  him 
to  beware  of  a  caiman  alado,  then  lurking  near  the 
pass,  urging  upon  him,  at  the  same  time,  to  wait  for 
the  canoe.  Scorning  this  advice,  the  Llanero  replied 
with  characteristic  pride,  "  Let  him  come  ;  I  was 
never  yet  afraid  of  man  or  beast."  Then  laying  aside 
a  i^art  of  his  ponderous  equipment,  he  placed  his  two- 
edged  dagger  between  his  teeth,  and  plunged  fear- 
lessly into  the  river.  He  had  not  proceeded  far, 
when  the  monster  rose  and  made  quickly  towards 
liini.  Tlie  ferryman  crossed  himself  devoutly,  and 
muttered  the  holy  invocation  of  ■  Jesuff,  Ifaria  y 
Jose  !  fearing  for  the  life,  and,  above  all,  for  the  toll 
of  the  imprudent  traveller.  In  the  mean  time,  the 
swimmer  continued  gliding  through  the  water  tow- 
ards the  approaching  crocodile.  Aware  of  the  impos- 
sibility of  striking  liis  adversary  a  mortal  blow  unless 
he  could  reach  the  armpit,  he  awaited  the  moment 
when  the  reptile  should  attack  him,  to  throw  his  sad- 
dle at  him.  This  lie  accomplished  so  successfully, 
that  the  crocodile,  doubtless  imagining  it  to  be  some 
sort  of  good  eating,  jumped  partly  out  of  the  water 
to  catch  it.  Instantly  the  Llanero  plunged  his  dagger 
up  to  the  very  hilt  into  the  tatal  spot.  A  hoarse 
grunt  and  a  tremendous  splash  showed  that  the  blow 
was  mortal,  for  the  ferocious  monster  sunk  beneath 
the  waves  to  ri^e  no  more. 

Proud  of  this  achievement,  and  bcorning  the  tardy 


114 


TRAVELS  AXU  ADVENTUKES. 


assistance  of  the  fern*nian,  who  offorctl  to  pick  him  up 
in  his  cunoc,  he  waved  Iiis  blootly  dnjrgcr  in  the  air, 
exchiiiuinj:,  as  he  did  so  :  "  Is  there  no  other  about 
here  ?  "  and  then  turning,  he  swam  leisurely  back  to 
take  his  horse  across. 

The  canoiro  who  related  this  adventure  then 
added  :  "  So  delighted  was  I  on  that  occasion,  that 
I  killed  my  fattest  hen  to  treat  the  man  to  a  gootl 
suncocho,  fur  the  caiman  had  devouretl  all  my  goats." 

But  this  is  only  one  of  the  many  exploits  con- 
stantly being  enacted  in  these  regions,  by  the  bold 
race  of  men  inhabiting  ih'  iii. 


Tlure  is  still  u  at 

the  continence  ol  ilie  Aj.Uie  and  iViiugiKhU  rivers, 
another  individual  equally  bold  in  attacking  croco- 
dilos,  in  which  warfare  he  uses  only  a  wooden  mace 
or  chib.     }Io  i';  iN>^i;i|.lv  one  of  tlio  rrr,.nt<ct  swimmers 


LA  PORTUGUESA.  1]5 

in  that  or  any  otlior  country,  having  repeatedly  ac- 
complished the  run  between  San  Fernando  and  El 
Diamante — a  plantation  wliich  he  owns  three  miles 
below  the  town — without  once  stopping  on  the  way. 
Armed  with  his  heavy  club  in  one  hand,  and  a  bottle 
of  iTim  in  the  other,  to  keep  himself  in  good  spirits, 
this  modern  Hercules  will,  for  the  fun  of  it,  during 
a  spree,  provoke  a  fight  with  a  caiman  ccbado;  and 
so  effectual  has  been  his  warfare,  that  he  has  ac- 
tually succeeded  in  driving  them  away  from  the  pass, 
formerly  so  infested  by  them,  that  scarcely  a  year 
elapsed  in  which  numbers  of  persons  were  not  carried 
off  by  them,  helpless  washerwomen  especially. 

I  observed,  also,  at  La  Portuguesa,  a  great  num- 
ber of  fresh-water  porpoises  or  tojiinas,  as  they  are 
called  there,  swimming  with  rapidity  against  the  cur- 
rent, and  bending  their  backs  gracefully  like  their 
congeners  of  the  sea.  Crocodiles  appeared  to  avoid 
them,  and  would  invariably  dive  out  of  the  way  at 
their  approach.  It  is  probable  that  from  this  circum- 
stance arose  the  current  belief  that  lonhias  will  be- 
friend persons  when  they  chance  to  fall  into  the  water, 
against  the  attacks  of  crocodiles.  It  is,  moreover,  as- 
serted that  these  cctacea  will  rescue  a  man  from  drown- 
ing, pushing  him  on  to  the  shore  with  their  snouts.  In 
acknowledgment  of  this  animal  philanthropy,  the  hand 
of  man  is  there  never  raised  against  these  inoffensive 
creatures  ;  and  so  conscious  are  they  of  this,  that  they 
seem  rather  to  delight  in  his  neighborhood,  sporting 
around  the  canoes  which  ascend  the  river,  and  spouting 
jets  of  water  and  compressed  air  like  miniature  whales. 


CIIAITKK    IX. 


iin:    ATI  1:1;  i;ivi:i: 


AVi;  tarried  povcral  ih\\)i  at  La  Portufruesa  to  aflord 
our  horses  time  to  riK-over  from  tlie  fatijrue.s  of  the 
jtrevioiis  roiigli  journeys.  AVc  also  cxpeeted  to  ineor 
porate  there  another  drove,  wliich  having  heen  ke)  ; 
throuirhont  the  summer  grazing  in  the  ever-vmhinf 
meadows  of  this  river,  wore  now  in  very  fine  eontli- 
tioii.  In  the  mean  time,  we  were  agreeably  oceupicd 
in  hunting,  fishing  and  dancing;  the  people  of  tho 
ntighhorhood  heing  suflieient  for  our  social  cntei 
taimnents. 

Kvery  morning  we  r<»de  out  to  tlie  savannas  !> 
hunt  an  ox  for  our  meals.  The  remainder  of  the  day 
■was  ooeuj>ied  in  scouring  the  adjacent  woods  and 
jdains  afttrr  our  steeds,  who  seemcil  as  if  conscious  of 
the  life  that  awaited  them  ltey«»nd  La  Portugnesa  ; 
for  it  rcfpiirrd  all  the  ingenuity  and  sagacity  of  the 
Llanero8  to  discover  their  hiding-j)lace,'i,  and  bring 
them  again  to  the  corrals.  Tlie  evenings  were  de- 
voted to  dancing  and  singing  by  the  light  of  half  a 


THE    ArURE    KIVEU. 


117 


dozen  candilcs,  or  lumps  niado  of  burned  clay,  and 
filled  with  the  grease  of  crocodiles.  The  habitations 
being  considerably  scattered  along  the  banks  of  the 
river,  we  employed  a  number  of  runners  for  the  pur- 
pose of  bringing  the  com])any  to  the  fandango,  as 
these  nocturnal  revelries  are  called,  who  came  in 
canoes  or  wading  through  the  mud  as  occasion  re- 
quired. 

And  now,  refined  and  courteous  reader,  picture  to 
yourself  a  motley  assemblage,  brought  together  with- 
out any  regard  to  color,  age,  or  position,  under  an 
open  shed  or  barracoon  dimly  lighted,  and  you  will 
form  an  idea  of  our  soirees  dansantes^  wliicli  for  merri- 
ment and  courtesy  might  Avith  good  reason  have  been 
the  envy  of  the  most  polished  reunions. 

The  orchestra  was  composed  of  a  guitar  scarcely 
larger  than  the  hand  that  twanged  it,  a  banjo  of  huge 
proportions,  and  a  couple  of  noisy  inanicas,  rattle- 
boxes  made  from  the  shell  of  the  calabash  fruit,  and 
filled  with  the  seed  of  a  Marantha  or  Indian  shot. 
No  music  is  considered  complete  without  this  accom- 
paniment, wliich,  as  well  as  I  could  judge,  filled  the 
])lace  of  castanets,  or  the  less  romantic  "  bones  ''  of 
negro  minstrelsy.  A  wooden  handle  is  attached  to 
each,  to  enable  the  performer  to  shake  them  to  and 
fro,  which  he  does  with  appropriate  gestures  and  con- 
tortions expressive  of  his  different  emotions.  A  cor- 
responding choir  of  singers,  picked  from  our  own 
suite,  was  attached  to  the  players.  All  Llaneros  are 
]iassi()nately  fond  of  music,  and  display  considerable 
talent,  composing  many  beautiful  songs  of  a  national 
character,  called   (onos  or  trovas,  llaneras.     Few  in 


lis  'lli\\lI,->     \M>    ADVIM  I  Kl  >. 

the  countrv  are  not  jjifted  with  the  ]>owcrof  vei^ilira- 
tion,  and  there  are  among  them  many  famous  imj't'o- 
vimitori.  AVhenever  two  of  the>e  are  brought  to- 
gether, a  competition  for  the  hiurel  crown  is  the  in- 
varial)le  conse(}uence.  This  amicable  strife  sometimes 
occuj)ies  several  successive  hours,  ending  oidy  when 
one  of  the  bards  is  fairly  silenced  by  the  oilier  ;  the 
victor  is  then  declared  the  lion  of  the  fite  and  receives 
accordingly  not  only  the  coiigratidations  of  his  ad- 
mirers, but  also  secures  the  smiles  of  the  most  spark- 
ling eyes  in  the  company.  It  is  really  surprising  to 
see  men,  who  cannot  distinguish  one  letter  of  the  al- 
phabet from  another,  compose  and  extemporize  i>oetry 
which,  although  rude  in  character,  is  nevertheless  full 
of  interest  and  significance.  !Most  t>f  their  songs  and 
ballads  refer  to  deeds  of  valor  ]icrft)rmed  by  their  own 
heroes  ;  while  others  recount  their  love  adventures, 
and  daily  struggles  with  the  wild  and  unsubdued 
nature  Avhich  surrounds  them.  Their  instruments, 
whi'U  liandled  with  skill,  produce  very  harm<uiious 
sounds.  The  haiulvla  or  banjo  bears  no  resemblance 
to  the  one  in  common  use  among  the  negroes  of  the 
States.  It  is,  in  fact,  a  guitar  of  large  proportions, 
sliaped  somewhat  like  the  lute  of  old.  The  guitar  of 
the  Llanos  is  the  reverse  of  its  associate  the  banjo, 
being  considerably  smaller  and  with  only  five  strings, 
on  which  account  it  is  called  Cinco.  Still,  it  is  a 
very  noisy  little  instrument,  all  its  cords  being  made 
to  resound  at  once  by  running  the  lingers  of  the  right 
hand  up  and  down  over  them,  wliilo  those  of  the  lett 
stop  them  at  the  right  moment. 

The  dancers  do  not  grapple  Mith  each  other,  as  is 


^^- 


TIIK    ArrUE    RIVER.  119 

the  practice  among  some  of  the  more  enlightened, 
but  dance  alone,  joining  hands  occasionally  for  a  few 
moments,  and  tlien  separating  and  whirling  round  by 
themselves.  First,  a  woman  paces  round  the  room 
in  double-quick  step,  looking  for  a  partner ;  when  a 
suitable  one  is  found,  a  graceful  waving  of  the  hand- 
kerchief summons  him  before  her  ;  then  both  go 
through  their  evolutions  until  the  woman  chooses  to  / 

withdraw.  The  man  then  with  a  polite  bow  invites  \/ 
a  second  partner,  and  so  on  to  the  end  of  the  first 
dance.  This  is  styled  the  GaJeron,  in  which  only  the 
most  skilful  dancers  take  part,  as  it  requires  great 
flexibility  of  joint  and  limb  to  execute  all  the  intricate 
and  graceful  postnrings  and  swayings  of  the  body, 
constituting  the  principal  charm  of  the  performance. 
They  have  a  variety  of  other  dances,  such  as  La 
Manctla,  El  Ba^pcm,,  La  Zaj)a,  &c.,  all  of  which, 
however,  are  of  the  same  character,  the  chief  differ- 
ence being  in  the  double  eniondre  of  the  stanzas  sung  , 
as  accompaniment  to  the  nnisic.  La  Mariccla,  espe-  J 
cially,  is  a  very  exciting  dance,  from  the  satirical  hon 
mots  hurled  by  the  bard  of  the  evening  at  each  couple 
as  they  pass.  Tlie  facility  with  which  these  verses  are 
improvised  is  most  amusing,  and  would  even  astonish 
the  most  accomplished  Neapolitan  iiirprovisatore. 
Some  of  them  are  capital  hits  upon  the  personal  ap- 
pearance, &c.,  of  the  dancers,  and  none  fail  to  find 
some  point  for  ridicule. 

Three  or  four  days  we  sojourned  among  these  jolly 
peoi)le,  and  then  again  set  out  for  the  scene  of  our 
future   adventures,  stopping  for   the   night    at    San 


J20  TKAVKI.-^    \M'    \i.\KNTL*RES. 

Jaime,  ome  a  thriving;  town,  but  now  nearly  deserted 
iu  cunt>e(iueneo  of  the  desolating;  eivil  wars  \shiih 
Iiave  atilieted  the  eountry  for  several  years.  On  our 
way  thither,  wo  traveri>ed  a  sueeession  of  beautiful 
prairies,  bound  by  rin<^  of  niapiiticent  forest  trees, 
and  watered  by  numerous  ereeks  and  ia^^oons  lilled 
with  water  fowl.  I'nlikc  the  dreary  wa^tei^  we  had 
already  eros^ncd,  whieh,  "  like  the  oeean,  till  the  imagi- 
ation  with  the  idea  c»f  infinity,"  the  plains  btretehing 
between  the  rortu^Miesa  and  Apure  rivers  are  ehar- 
aeterized  by  the  rankness  and  luxurianee  of  the  vege- 
tation. Owing  to  the  periodieal  inundation,  the  laud- 
seape  wears  here  the  green  mantle  of  sjtring  even 
during  the  hottest  months. 

This  yearly  inundation  is  one  of  the  most  eurious 
j)hcnomena  of  this  regii>n.  At  the  a]>j>r(»aeh  of  tin- 
rainy  season,  those  two  magnifiemt  otiVjuings  of  the 
Sierra  Nevada,  tlie  Aj)ure  and  rortugue.-a,  tireil  as  it 
were  of  their  h»ng  repose,  suddenly  rise  in  their 
heated,  muddy  beds,  and  leap  over  their  borders,  at 
firbt  in  jilayful  gambols ;  then  in  fearful  and  rajiid 
eourse,  converting  these  widely  extended  jdains  int<» 
a  vast  lagoon.  To  the  few  sjtots  which  escape  the 
general  submersion,  the  iiduibitants  retire  with  their 
chattels  and  flocks  in  canons  held  in  readiness  for  thr 
]»uqM)se. 

nius  the  land  is  kept  in  a  state  of  constant  irriga- 
tion and  fertility  unsuri>assed  in  any  country,  altlum^h 
at  the  cx]»ense  of  the  comfort  of  the  iidiabitants,  who 
are  compelled  t«t  aband(»n  their  homrs  to  the  croo. 
diles  an<l  anacondas  of  the  stream.  AVhen  the  watiis 
subside,   the  intruders  are  exj)elled   by  the  rightful 


Till':  Ari-Ri:  kivkr.  121 

owners  of  the  dwellings  ;  the  few  articles  of  furnitnre 
they  possess  replaced  in  the  damp  rooms,  and  they 
again  devote  themselves  to  domestic  pursuits  until  the 
next  inundation  forces  them  anew  to  seek  a  home 
elsewhere.  I  was  shown  at  the  pass  the  marks  left 
by  the  water  on  the  walls  of  the  cottages,  indicating 
in  some  instances  a  rise  of  twelve  feet. 

I  was  struck  with  the  size  and  luxuriance  of  the 
trees  along  the  course  of  these  rivers.  My  attention 
was  particularly  attracted  by  the  saman,  a  species  of 
Mimosa,  with  delicate,  feathery  flowers  of  a  pinkish 
hue,  and  gigantic,  umbrella-shaped  boughs.  There 
is  in  the  valleys  of  Aragua  one  of  these  which,  from 
time  immemorial,  has  elicited  the  admiration  of 
travellers,  and  received  the  protection  of  the  law 
since  the  discovery  and  settlement  of  the  country, 
for  its  magnificent  proportions  and  the  great  age 
which  it  is  supposed  to  have  attained. 

Extensive  tracts  of  land  are  entirely  taken  up  by 
individuals  of  this  class.  It  would  be  impossible  to 
conceive  any  thing  more  grand  in  nature  than  a  forest 
of  these  trees.  It  might  be  said  of  them  that  each  is 
a  forest  in  itself ;  and  were  all  the  beautiful  parasites 
that  cling  to  their  trunks  and  branches  for  support 
spread  upon  the  gi'ound,  they  would  cover  several 
acres.  All  along  the  course  of  the  great  rivers  Apure, 
Guarico,  and  Portuguesa,  the  sama)i  is  found  in  such 
countless  numbers  that  the  combined  fleets  of  the 
oivili>cod  world  might  be  reconstructed  from  this  in- 
exhaustible supply.  Tlie  axe  of  the  northerner  could 
readily  convert  those  stupendous  forests  into  vehicles 


122 


TKAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES. 


of  coininorcc  and  civilization,  wore  it  not  for  the  wast- 
ing ftvc'i>,  cndeniic  of  that  rej::ion.  Now  they  onlv 
Bcrvf  as  j)rott'ctive  haunts  for  dtsperatc  bands  of  rol»- 
Ikts  and  cut-thi\»;its,  Kt  loo^L'  In'  un]»riueipled  i»uli- 
tjciujis. 


Equally  rank  and  luxuriant  arc  the  gr:i>>e5  in 
these  alluvial  lands.  AVe  were  coni]>elled  to  drivi- 
before  us  all  the  relay  horses  and  other  l)ea5ts  of  bur- 
den to  o]»(Mi  a  passaire  and  save  our  bare  feet  from 
l»eini;  drtadfully  lacerated  by  the  qnvi>lof<\  a  tall, 
(•uttin«r,  an«l  worthless  grass,  with  blades  almost  as 
.'iharj)  as  a  "  Toledo."  It  gjxjws  so  closely  and  rapidly 
as  to  obliterate  in  a  few  days  the  ^laths  made  l>y 
travellers,  killing  every  other  sjtecies  in  its  way.  Un- 
fortunately, it  is  perfectly  useless  as  fodder,  exccjit 
for  i'hiffnirts  or  water-hogs,  which  feed  on  it  when 
nothing  better  offers,  and  to  the  flesh  of  which  it  in)- 
parts  its  disagreeable  flavor;  {\\Qgam4Jot^  is  therefore 
consigned  to  the  flames  as  soon  as  it  is  rij)C  enough 
to  burn,  wliich  it  doe^  with  as  much  seeming  fury  as 


TUE   APURE   RIVER.  123 

it  displayed  against  the  toot  and  logs  of  travellers  in 
its  green  days. 

On  the  second  night  of  our  journey,  ^vc  pitched 
our  camp  near  several  ponds,  literally  crowded  with 
alligators  and  fish  and  water  fowl  of  all  varieties, 
which  kept  up  a  continual  strife,  to  our  great  discom- 
fort. Xot  only  was  the  water  rendered  noxious  hy 
the  numerous  creatures  in  it,  but  even  the  air  was 
tilled  with  the  etHuvium  and  mosquitoes  arising  there- 
from. AVe  were  compelled  to  dig  wells  in  the  vicin- 
ity of  the  lagoons  to  obtain  water  for  our  use ;  but 
no  artifice  could  shield  us  from  the  unmerciful  attacks 
of  the  mosquitoes,  especially  the  kind  called  j'p?^/- 
lones,  from  the  length  and  strength  of  the  proboscis. 
"\Ve  tried  in  vain  to  escape  their  painful  sting  by  roll- 
ing ourselves  from  head  to  foot  in  our  ponchos  and 
hammocks,  at  the  peril  of  suffocation  ;  the  needle-like 
proboscis  of  the  insects  actually  penetrated  through 
the  folds  of  our  covering  so  as  to  draw  blood.  Xor 
would  the  smoke  of  the  blazing  fires  around  the 
camp  drive  them  off,  as  was  anticipated.  Fortunately, 
they  only  paid  us  an  early  visit,  retiring  all  at  once 
before  midnight,  and  leaving  us  to  the  tender  mercies 
of  their  kinsfolk,  the  noisy  mosquitoes  or  za7iciidos. 
These,  although  not  so  tormenting  with  their  sting, 
were  none  the  less  so  with  their  music,  while  no  part 
of  our  bodies  could  be  left  uncovered  without  being 
instantly  besieged  l)y  swarms  of  these  "  howling-insect 
wolves."  This,  however,  was  the  only  occasion  ui)on 
which  we  were  troubled  by  mosquitoes  during  our 
journey,  as  they  only  appear  in  force  durhig  the  rainy 
season. 


124  TIIAVKI^S  AND  ADVEXTURES. 

I  notici»(l  Iktc  for  tlic  first  time  u  low  ransro  of 
liills  or  mahmoH^  mere  aceiiimilatiuiis  of  sjihcI  tosstd 
from  jtlate  to  j)lace  by  tlie  winds  acroiis  the  boundlets 
])lain  ;  to-ilay,  they  rise  above  the  surroiiiuliiig  ]»rai- 
ries  ;  to-morrow,  tliey  are  levelled  with  the  dust  of  the 
savannas  :  fit  einblein  of  the  e)>heuieral  republics  of 
the  South  !  These  vu'danos  had  been  overrun  by  the 
gmiulote^  fjivin<^  them  the  character  of  jtcrinanent 
hills,  fnMU  which  the  i»laec  takes  the  name  t»f  Mc- 
danos  dc  San  Martin. 

It  is  scarcely  necessary  to  say  that  there  was  no 
temptation  to  prolon^jj  our  stay  there  lon^T  than  was 
needed  by  our  horses,  who  revelled  all  ni^ht  in  the 
fine  meadows  around  the  la«x<M>"*-  Packin<;  up  once 
more,  wc  bade  adieu  to  that  inhosj)itable  encampment 
long  before  dayli;;l»t. 

Struixirling  through  miles  of  gamcIoU,  wq  reache<l 
the  cattle  farm  of  Corozito  towards  noon.  Don  Lu- 
ciano Samuel,  the  proj>rietor,  extended  to  us  the  hos- 
pitalities of  his  demesne  with  the  characteristic  grace 
and  frankness  of  the  people  in  those  regions.  From 
thence  to  the  Pass  of  Aj)urito,  on  the  river  Apure, 
was  only  a  few  hours'  ride ;  and  the  morning  being 
the  best  time  for  crossing  the  river  with  our  animals, 
we  rose  early  in  order  to  reach  it  before  the  breeze 
should  commence  blowing. 

Owing  to  the  thick  vegetation  on  its  banks,  we 
did  not  discover  the  river  until  we  were  close  u]»on 
it ;  and  then,  with  what  delight  did  I  again  view  the 
broa<l  surface  of  this  magnificent  stream  I 

Although  born  near  its  sh«»rcs,  I  ha<l  but  a  faint 
recollection  of  its  broad  expanse.     Perhaps  its  turbu- 


THE    Al'LUE    lilVER.  125 

lent  -waves  had  rocked  my  raw-hide  cradle  during  one 
of  the  i>eriodical  inundations  ;  lor,  from  earliest  child- 
hood, I  have  borne  marks  left  by  the  teeth  of  the 
cart  be. 

AVhat  glorious  recollections  of  the  fierce  contest 
for  liberty  did  its  waters  bring  to  memory  !  Not  the 
lordly  Thames,  with  its  "  woven-winged  "  argosies, 
teeming  with  the  merchandise  of  the  earth  ;  the  en- 
chanting Delaware,  framed  in  romantic  cottages  and 
orchard  groves ;  nor  yet  the  splendid  Hudson,  re- 
nowned for  its  floating  palaces  and  legends,  but  more, 
that  on  its  banks  nestles  the  home  of  Irving,  awakened 
in  my  breast  such  emotions  of  heartfelt  admiration  as 
did  this  silent  messenger  from  the  Sierra  Kevada ! 
There,  amidst  the  thunders  of  the  Heavens  and  rolling 
avalanches,  it  takes  its  rise,  precipitately  descending 
to  the  plain  below  through  a  succession  of  frightful 
leaps,  which  shake  the  primeval  forest  to  its  very 
foundations.  And  so  it  comes,  that  its  surface  is  often 
loaded  with  an  inmiense  accumulation  of  fallen  trees 
from  the  various  zones  of  vegetation  it  traverses  in  its 
course.  Thus  the  delicate  ferns  and  other  Alpine 
plants  are  commingled  with  those  of  the  burning 
climes  l)elow,  and  finally  deposited  in  the  wide  estu- 
ary forming  the  delta  of  the  Orinoco.  "When  future 
generations  shall  disentomb  them  in  a  petrified  state, 
their  geologists  will  no  doubt  attribute  this  singular 
agglomeration  to  M'onderful  changes  in  the  temper- 
ature of  the  earth. 

The  river  Apure,  properly  speaking,  is  fonned  by  \ 
the  confluence  of  two  other  streams,  the  Sarare  and  \ 
Uribaute.     The  former  has  its  rise  among  the  Kew 


120  TUAVELS  AND   ADVENTURES. 

Grunndian  ran^c  of  niountaine,  althougli  a  great  por« 
tion  of  itn  waters  flow  now  into  the  Arauea,  conse- 
(|U(.nt  on  tlie  groat  ilcposits  of  sand  and  drift  wood 
ac-cuniulating  at  its  nuditli. 

The  Uribuntc,  or  Upper  Apure,  may  l>c  consid- 
ered the  main  channel  of  this  river,  with  a  total 
li-ngth  of  six  hundred  :ind  forty  miles,  five  hundred 
and  sixty-four  of  which  are  navigahle  for  large  vesselj*. 
It  takes  the  nameof  Ajaue  aftir  its  junction  with  the 
Sarare  ;  but  is  again  subdivided  into  several  ramifi- 
cations called  cartas  or  creeks,  each  of  which  lias  a 
particidar  name ;  among  them,  La  Ebilla,  Apurito 
and  Aj>urc-Seco  are  the  most  imj>ortant  ;  these  again 
unite  with  the  main  channel,  and  form  islands  of  sur- 
prising fertility.  These  islands  are  invaluable  as^'(>- 
tn/'os  for  the  cattle,  when  other  parts  (»f  the  country 
are  j)arched  with  the  droughts  of  summer,  the  stecji 
banks  and  wide  channels  of  the  rivers  serving  as  the 
most  ctTectual  barriers  against  their  roaming  jiroj»en- 
sitics. 

Tlie  geogra]>hi(:il  situation  of  this  river,  joined  a> 
it  is  to  <»ne  of  the  greatest  tributaries  of  the  wide 
ocean — the  Orinoco — at  a  point  nearly  five  hundred 
miles  from  its  confluence  with  the  sea,  stamps  it  as 
one  of  the  most  important  lines  of  internal  navigation 
in  the  world,  and  points  to  the  wild  region  of  the 
Llanos  as  a  future  emporium  of  civilization.  To  it  all 
the  ]>rodu(ts  and  other  natural  sources  of  wealth  from 
the  adjoining  provinces  will  be  brought  ff»r  immediate 
exportation  to  foreign  markets  ;  as,  in  addition  to  tlu 
vast  area  of  level  country  traversed  by  it,  this  river 
receives  the  tribute  of  a  hundred  navigable  streams 


THE    APUIIE    RIVER.  127 

descending  tVoin  tlic  eastern  slope  of  the  Andes  of 
Now  Granada  and  Veneznela. 

The  widtli  of  the  Apure  varies  considerably  ac- 
cording to  the  seasons  of  rains  and  droiights  ;  some- 
times extending  miles  beyond  its  actnal  cliannel,  bnt 
iisually  not  less  than  one  thonsand  yards  broad. 
Humboldt,  who  measured  it  at  San  Fernando  in  the 
month  of  May,  ■when  it  had  receded  to  its  lowest  ebb, 
found  it  to  be  two  hundred  and  thirtj'-six  toises 
broad  ;  higher  up  it  is  considerably  wider,  gradually 
diminishing  as  it  approaches  its  great  confluent.  Al- 
luding to  this  singular  phenomenon,  mostly  caused 
by  evaporation  and  infiltrations  through  the  dry, 
sandy  banks  of  the  river,  the  same  eminent  traveller 
elucidates  some  curious  facts  worthy  of  notice.  He 
says :  "  Some  idea  of  the  magnitude  of  these  effects 
may  be  formed,  from  the  fact  that  we  found  the  heat 
of  the  dry  sands  at  different  hours  of  the  day  from 
30°  to  52°,*  and  that  of  sands  covered  with  three  or 
four  inches  of  water  32°.  The  beds  of  rivers  are 
heated  as  far  as  the  depth  to  which  the  solar  rays  can 
penetrate,  without  undergoing  too  great  an  expansion 
in  their  passage  through  the  superincumbent  strata 
of  water.  Besides,  filtration  extends  in  a  lateral  di- 
rection far  beyond  the  bed  of  the  river.  The  shore, 
which  appears  dry  to  us,  imbibes  water  as  far  up  as 
to  the  level  of  the  surface  of  the  river.  We  saw 
water  gush  out  at  the  distance  of  fifty  toises  from  the 
shore,  every  time  that  the  Indians  struck  their  oars 
into  the  ground.     Now,  these  sands,  wet  below  but 

♦Centigrade  Thcrtnom.=97'  to  126°  Fall. 


12S  TKAVKI-S    AM)    AUVlINTLiaiS. 

dr^  ttbi»ve,  and  cxjKi.scd  to  tl»e  i^olar  ruy«s  «<t  likt- 
Bj)un^'i-S  and  lose  the  infiltrated  water  every  instant 
by  i\ ai»»)ratiun.  The  vapor  that  \6  emitted  traverM- 
the  upiter  stratum  ot'  sand  stroiif^dy  heated,  and  be 
comes  sensible  to  the  eye  when  the  air  (•(•(•Is  towaril> 
evening:.  As  the  beaeh  dries,  it  draws  from  the 
river  new  portions  ttf  water;  an<l  it  may  be  easily 
conceived  that  this  continual  alternatiim  ol"  vaporiza- 
tion and  lateral  al»s<»rpti(»n  must  cause  an  immen>f 
hiss,  dillicult  to  submit  t(»  exact  calculation.  The  in- 
crease of  these  losses  would  be  in  j>rojKtrtion  to  tin- 
length  of  the  course  of  the  rivers,  if  from  their  source 
to  their  mouth  they  were  e<|ually  surrounded  by  :i 
flat  slujre  ;  but  these  sliores  bein<^  forme<l  by  doj»o>il> 
from  the  water,  and  the  water  havin«j  less  velocity  in 
]»ro]>ortion  as  it  is  more  remote  fnnn  its  source,  tlirow- 
ing  down  more  sediment  in  the  h»wer  than  in  tin 
npjicr  part  of  its  course,  many  rivers  in  h«»t  climate- 
underi;(»  a  diniinution  in  the  (juantity  of  their  Matrr 
as  they  approach  their  outlets,  Mr.  liarrow  observed 
these  curious  etlects  of  sands  in  the  southern  ]>art  of 
Africa,  (»n  the  banks  <»f  the  Oranj^e  river.  They  have 
also  become  the  subject  of  a  very  important  discu^- 
sion  in  the  various  hypotheses  tlnit  luive  been  formed 
respecting  the  course  of  the  Niger.'' 

At  the  time  we  crossetl  the  Ajture,  it  was  consid- 
erably behtw  the  average  width,  as  we  were  then  in 
the  midst  of  thi*  dry  season  ;  nevertheless,  it  presente<l 
a  formidable  obstaj'le  to  our  progress.  Tiiere  beiuLT 
only  one  canoe  at  the  ]>ass,  the  whole  morning  w:i~ 
sjMiit  in  the  transj»urtati»»n  of  <t»ir  bulky  riding-g(:i! 
and  luggage  ;  and  the  breczo  setting  in  shortly  after 


THE    AI'l'RE    KIVER.  129 

our  ari'ival,  the  passac^c  of  the  horses  was  postponed 
until  noon,  in  consequence  of  the  agitated  state  of  the 
Avater.  It  wouhl  have  been  rather  hazardous  to  ex- 
l)0se  our  vahiable  steeds  to  the  "  chopping  sea," 
Avhicli,  beating  against  the  animals'  nostrils,  is  apt  to 
stop  their  respiration,  and  as  they  then  lose  their 
steadiness  in  swimming,  are  rendered  liable  to  be 
drowned. 

We  were  met  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river 
by  a  committee  of  gentlemen  in  their  shirt  sleeves, 
like  ourselves,  commissioned  by  the  inhabitants  of 
Apurito  to  tender  our  Leader  the  hospitalities  of  their 
village.  Prominent  among  them  was  the  general 
overseer  of  his  estate,  Commandant  Eavago,  a  tough, 
wiry,  and  M'eather-beaten  individual,  whose  nose 
Nature  had  made  of  an  unjustifiable  length,  and  who 
discoursed  in  a  language  peculiar  to  himself.  Indeed, 
it  required  one  to  be  well  versed  in  the  jargon  of  the 
Llanos  to  understand  his  dissertations  upon  matters 
and  things  in  general  ;  for  he  pretended  to  be  a  con- 
noisseur in  every  thing,  except  languages ;  the  English, 
especially,  was  peculiarly  distasteful  to  his  ears,  and 
whenever  lie  heard  us  conversing  in  that  tongue,  he 
declared  in  his  patois,  that  it  reminded  him  of  a  pack 
of  horses  neighing  to  each  other.  Kotwithstanding 
his  uncouth  manner  and  appearance,  our  overseer 
was  a  very  shrewd  fellow,  and  (piite  au  fait  in  all 
nuitters  appertaining  to  cattle  farms. 

As  for  the  village  or  port  of  Apurito,  it  was  a 

mere  assemblage  of  nnid-plastered  cottages,  thatched, 

like    all    houses    in    that    region,   with    palm    leaves. 

Some  of  them   had  doors   and  windows  of  planed 

6* 


13tJ  TKAVEI-S  AM>   ADVKNTUKES. 

hoards  ;  but  tliu  greater  part  were  free  to  whoever 
and  wliatevcr  eliose  to  walk  or  craicl  into  them  ;  no 
ehurcli,  no  si'hool-houi»e,  no  huildin«r  devoted  to  puh- 
lie  meetings  of  any  sort.  The  AK-alde,  that  most  im- 
]M)rtant  functionary  in  small  Spanish  communities, 
held  his  audiences  in  the  narrow  corridor  v(  his  hut, 
while  the  saiu  was  devoted  to  the  all-ahsorbing  game 
of  inonte.  Once  a  year  the  Padre,  next  in  importance 
to  his  Honor  the  Alcalde,  jjaid  a  visit  to  the  village, 
when  all  the  boys  and  girls  who  had  not  been  bap- 
tized were  brought  before  him  at  his  lodgings,  where 
the  ceremony  was  performed  in  a  somewhat  informal 
manner,  and  without  special  regard  being  paid  to  the 
strict  injunctions  of  the  Church.  There  were  a  few 
storehouses  scattered  along  the  banks  of  the  river, 
where  all  business  transactions  were  carried  on. 
These  were  princii»ally  in  hides,  which  are  given  in 
exchange  for  the  few  articles  of  barter  brought  from 
the  Orinoco.  Hides,  in  fact,  are  the  bank  notes  of 
the  Llanos ;  and  although  rather  voluminous  and 
uncleanly,  they  change  hands  as  readily  as  any 
'"  paper  "  that  was  ever  in  "  tlie  market.''  These  arc 
taken  to  Ciudad  Bolivar,  formerly  Angostura,  in 
bongos  and  one-mast  sailing  vessels  called  lanchaJt^ 
which  return  laden  with  salt,  knives,  blankets,  and 
printed  calicoes,  articles  of  prime  ne<'essity  among  the 
inhabitants.  Other  j)orts  along  the  A]»urc,  such  as 
Nutrias  an<l  San  Fernando,  carry  on  a  very  extensive 
trade  in  these  goods.  The  first-named  town  adds 
largely  to  her  exports,  bringing  in  the  agricultural 
jiroducts  of  the  adjoining  province  of  Barinas.  Tlicse 
arc  coffee,  cacao,  indigo,  and  tobacco  ;  the  last  being 


THE  ArURK  UIVER.  131 

liiglily  prized  in  Gerniany  for  meerschaums,  and  al- 
-svays  ol)tainin<;  a  ready  sale  at  Bolivar. 

The  course  of  the  Aj>ure  l^eing  nearly  in  a  straight 
line  from  west  to  east,  the  trade  winds  blowing  across 
tlie  plains  in  the  summer  season  play  a  very  impor- 
tant part  in  propelling,  even  against  the  current,  the 
heaviest  craft  sailing  up  the  river.  During  the  rainy 
season,  the  westerly  winds  combine  with  the  current 
of  the  stream  in  expediting  the  progress  of  vessels. 
Of  late,  several  steamboats  have  been  added  to 
those  already  engaged  in  this  traffic ;  and  I  am  told 
are  doing  a  very  profitable  business.  God  speed 
them  ! 

''  During  the  time  of  great  floods,"  writes  Hum- 
boldt, "  the  inhabitants  of  these  countries,  to  avoid  the 
force  of  the  currents,  and  the  danger  arising  from  the 
trunks  of  trees  which  these  currents  bring  down,  in- 
stead of  ascending  the  beds  of  rivers  in  their  boats, 
cross  the  savannas.  To  go  from  San  Fernando  to  the 
villages  of  San  Juan  de  Payara,  San  Eafael  de  Ata- 
maica,  or  San  Francisco  de  Capanaparo,  they  direct 
their  course  due  south,  as  if  they  were  crossing  a 
single  river  of  twenty  leagues  broad.  Tlie  junctions 
of  the  Guarico,  the  Apure,  the  Cabullare,  and  the 
Arauca  with  the  Orinoco,  form,  at  a  hundred  and 
sixty  leagues  from  the  coast  of  Guiana,  a  kind  of  in- 
terior delta,  of  which  hydrography  furnishes  few  ex- 
amples in  the  Old  World.  According  to  the  height 
of  the  mercury  in  the  barometer,  the  waters  of  the 
Apure  have  only  a  fall  of  thirty -four  toises  from  San 
Fernando  to  the  sea.     Tlic  fall  from  the  mouths  of 


132  TKAVELS  AND  ADVEXTLRES. 

tlic  Ojiago  and  the  Missonri  to  the  bar  of  tlie  Missis- 
Bij)j)i  is  not  more  considerable.  Tlie  eavannas  of 
Lower  Louisiana  everywhere  remind  us  of  tlic  sa- 
vannas of  tlie  Lower  Orinoco." — Travth  to  the  JCtjui- 

Uiu-nll    /A /////;, .V. 


CHAPTER  X. 

SAVANXAS      OF      APURE. 

After  a  thorough  examination  of  animals  and 
baggage,  to  see  that  all  was  as  it  ought  to  be,  we  left 
the  uninteresting  village  of  Apurito  for  our  cattle- 
estate  of  San  Pablo  de  Apure,  a  few  miles  further 
south.  As  we  passed  the  last  house  fronting  the 
river,  Mr.  Thomas  descried  a  jaguar-skin,  which  the 
owner  of  the  hut  had  spread  to  dry  upon  the  fence. 
Wishing  to  examine  it  more  closely,  he  spurred  his 
mule  ahead  and  was  in  the  act  of  seizing  the  skin, 
when  the  animal,  whose  view  of  it  had  until  then  been 
obstructed  by  the  other  beasts,  coming  unexpectedly 
into  close  proximity  with  the — to  him — fearful  object, 
drew  back  in  terror,  snorting,  kicking,  and  plunging 
so  violently  as  to  capsize  the  unlucky  artist  upon  the 
sandy  beach.  The  abhorrence  with  which  mules  re- 
gard the  South  American  tiger,  is  one  of  the  most 
curious  phenomena  of  animal  instinct  with  which  I 
am  acquauited  ;  not  only  do  they  manifest  it  at  sight 


134  TUAVKl.S  AND  ADVENTL'RHS, 

of  the  cnaturi',  but  ali?<>  Ity  their  went,  while  tlie 
animal  is  htill  n  K>ii^  distance  oil',  and  yet,  in  most 
cases,  they  have  never  seen  a  ti^er,  as  was  the  case  in 
the  present  instance,  this  mule  having;  been  reared  in 
the  jKttreroH  of  San  PaMo  de  Paya,  where  tigers  are 
rarely,  if  ever,  met  with. 

After  a  ride  of  a  few  hours  throujjh  alternate 
glades  of  gigantic  mimosas  and  verdant  savannas,  wc 
reachc<l  San  Pahlo  before  night  had  cast  her  gl<K»m 
over  those  solenm  wilds.  The  house  was  neat  and 
well  located,  commanding  an  extended  view  of  the 
cfuintry  and  innumerable  herds  of  cattle  grazing  in  the 
distance.  There  were,  besides,  a  large  caiuy  or  bar- 
racoon  f«>r  the  acc<»mmodation  of  the  men  and  their 
chattels,  and  a  detached  hut  in  which  the  culinary 
functions  of  the  establishment  were  to  be  performcil. 

Tlic  aj>pellation  of  San  Pablo,  conferred  on  this 
farm  also — although  the  owner  possessed  already 
anttther  of  the  same  name — made  mc  suspect  that 
snakes  were  not  unconnnon  in  that  country,  the  reality 
of  which  fact  I  ascertained  the  lirst  time  that  I  strolK'd 
any  considerable  distance  from  the  house.  In  a  coun- 
try where  saints  are  supposed  to  exert  an  unbounded 
influence  over  all  human  aflairs,  it  is  not  unusual  to 
give  to  houses  and  localities,  threatened  with  some 
sj>ecial  calamity,  the  name  (»f  the  saint  who  is  consid- 
ered the  ])atron  or  defender  from  that  particular  evil : 
thus  places  which  are  frequently  visited  by  thundcr- 
Btonns,  arc  called  after  Santa  Barbara  ;  those  infected 
with  snakes,  receive  the  name  of  San  Pablo,  Arc,  6zc. 

Although  this  farm  fonned  ]»art  of  the  demesne  we 
came  to  inspect,  we  did  not  remain  there  longer  than 


SAVANNAS  OF  APURE.  135 

ras  absolutely  necessary  to  investig-ato  into  its  general 
ondition. 

"When  the  order  was  given  to  remove  to  El  Frio — 
nothcr  farm  further  westward — we  gladly  saddled 
orses  and  started  oft'  at  a  brisk  pace  over  those  fresh 
nd  beautiful  prairies  which,  with  their  peq^ctual 
rassy  caqiet,  caused  us  to  feel  as  if  we  were  coming 
ito  a  land  of  promise  and  contentment,  instead  of  one 
f  toil  and  hardship.  Indeed,  every  thing  denoted 
liat  we  were  now  entering  on  far  dificrcnt  scenes  from 
liose  we  had  left  across  the  river.  It  seemed  a  ter- 
cstrial  paradise,  where  a  beneficent  Providence  had 
ongregated  every  animal  most  needed  by  man.  Kow 
:  was  the  slender  forms  of  deer  in  herds  bounding 
wiftly  over  the  greensward  ;  now  the  gristly  wild 
ogs  and  capyvaras  making  hastily  for  the  nearest 
vvamp  to  avoid  the  eager  chase  of  our  men.  Occa- 
ionally  might  be  seen  a  redoubtable  wild  bull,  retir- 
ig  sulkily  and  slowly  at  the  head  of  his  shaggy  troop, 
s  if  wishing  to  dispute  our  right  to  enter  his  domain, 
"egetation,  however,  seemed  to  flourish  here  less  than 
1  other  places  we  had  visited,  as,  excepting  a  few 
L'attered  palms  of  a  new  variety,  and  some  straggling 
latas — which,  from  the  mirage  continually  before 
s,  appeared  like  fairy  groves  set  in  clearest  water — 
othing  but  the  fine  and  level  lawn  met  the  eye  lor 
lany  miles. 

Unlike  the  liigher  plains,  where  only  a  coarse 
crbagc  i)redominates,  the  savannas  of  Apure  are 
haracterized  by  a  luxuriant  growth  of  various  grasses, 
,'hich,  like  those  of  the  Portugucsa,  preserve  a  uni- 
:)rm  verdure  throughout  the  year.     Tliese  grasses — 


13G  TR.VVEUS  AND   ADVKXTURKS. 

Bonio  of  which  arc  as  soft  ami  jiliable  as  tilk — aiv 
most  iiiii»ortant  in  the  economy  of  cattle-breeding  in 
the  HavannaH  watered  by  the  Apure  and  its  tribu- 
taries. The  prodigious  increjisc  of  animals  in  these 
plains  is  mainly  owing  to  the  superiority  of  the  pas- 
tures over  those  of  the  upper  regiiins  of  the  Llanos, 
from  whence  the  farmer  is  coinpcllcd  to  migrate  with 
his  stock  every  summer. 

I  noticed  in  Ajture  three  varieties  of  grass,  which 
in  richness  of  flavor  and  nutritious  (jualities  can  hardly 
be  surpassed  by  any  otlier  fodder  jilants  of  the  tem- 
perate zones.  In  the  early  part  of  the  rainy  season, 
the  granadilla — a  grass  reaching  to  about  four  feet  in 
height,  with  tender  succulent  blades  and  panicles  of 
seed  not  unlike  some  varieties  of  broomcorn — starts 
with  the  earliest  showers  of  spring.  It  grows  with 
great  rapidity,  and  is  greedily  sought  by  all  rumi- 
nants ;  but  being  an  annual,  soon  disai)i>ear.<,  leaving 
no  vestige  of  its  existence.  In  the  alluvial  bottom- 
lands subject  to  the  periodical  inundation,  two  other 
grasses,  no  less  esteemed  for  their  nutriment,  have  an 
uninterrn})ted  growth  and  luxuriance  which  the  hot- 
test season  cannot  blast ;  these  are  the  canrUra^ 
named  from  the  beautiful  })rairie-goose  that  feeds  on 
it,  and  the  lanifudorOy  so  termed  on  account  of  its 
softness,  animals  feeding  on  it  appearing  to  lick  rather 
than  masticate  it.  Cattle  and  horses  thrive  on  it  very 
l»erceptibly,  and  even  calves  only  a  fortnight  old,  may 
be  left  to  shift  fur  them.selves  amidst  those  nutritious 
pastures. 

Eshros  is  the  name  by  which  these  j»ercnnial  mead- 
ows arc  there  designated.     Tliey  have  moreover  the 


w::c^H 


SAVANNAS  OF  Al'LUE.  13^ 

advantage  of  retaining  water  cnongli  throughout  the 
year  to  make  tlieni  the  resort  of  all  kinds  of  quadru- 
peds and  of  every  fowl  whom  "  Nature  has  taught  to 
dip  the  wing  in  water,"  the  former  to  allay  their 
thirst  and  feast  on  the  fine  grass,  and  the  latter  for 
the  purpose  of  raising  their  young  in  the  vicinity  of 
])onds  well  stocked  with  fish  of  all  varieties. 

No  description  can  convey  a  just  idea  of  tlic  ap- 
pearance presented  by  these  lagoons,  crowded  with 
almost  every  variety  of  animal.  The  birds  in  particu- 
lar— most  of  which  belong  to  the  extensive  family  of 
cranes — seem  to  have  migrated  there  from  all  cpiarters 
of  the  globe.  These  fluttering  connnunities  of  aquatic 
birds  are  known  in  the  country  under  the  approjjriate 
name  of  garzeros^  from  the  many  garzas — herons — 
predominating  in  them.  The  immense  number  of 
these  may  be  conceived  from  the  fact  that  their  colo- 
nies sometimes  embrace  several  miles  in  extent.  I 
noticed  there  also  various  kinds  of  cranes — garzonea — 
one  of  them,  called  the  soldier,  from  its  erect  bearing 
and  martial  air — is  over  five  feet  in  height,  with  a 
bill  fully  a  foot  long.  Tlie  garzas  were  of  various 
sizes  and  colors,  some  snow-white,  some  a  delicate 
blue,  others  gray  or  pink,  and  many  of  a  brilliant 
scarlet.  Although  cranes  and  herons  are  sj)ecies  very 
nearly  allied,  yet  they  verify  the  old  saying,  "  birds 
of  a  feather  flock  together,"  for  each  keeps  quite  dis- 
tinct from  the  other.  Tliey  generally  select  the 
s]»reading  top  of  a  low  tree — caujaro — gi-owing  in 
va.-,t  (piautitics  near  the  water,  in  which  to  build  their 
nests;  these  are  of  dry  sticks  very  ingeniously  inter- 
woven among  the  branches.     Well-beaten  tracks  are 


138  TRAVKLS  AND  ADVENTURt^ 

intidc  undiT  tlie  hushes  hy  the  tramp  of  many  fu«- 
j>ieu>UK  tliaratters  of  the  feline  trihe,  wIjo  make  these 
feathered  eoloiiies  their  favorite  resort,  where  they 
impri»ve  every  oj)j>ortunity  of  appropriating  any 
young  birds  that  may  ehanee  to  fall  from  the  nests. 

As  we  rode  j>ast  several  j>onds,  eovcred  with  a 
kind  (»f  water-lily,  whose  flowers  are  t»f  a  dark  jmrjde 
eolur,  myriads  of  ducks,  of  the  small  sjieeies  called 
(juir'tr'us^  rose  in  the  air,  actually  for  the  moment  ob- 
scuring the  sun.  Tliey  uttered  a  shrill  note,  clearly 
repeating  the  sound  from  which  they  arc  named,  so 
that  the  hunter  easily  discovers  their  whereabout. 
There  were,  besides,  great  numbers  of  a  larger  sjiecies 
of  duck — the  jxiio  no/,  or  royal  duck — so  named,  1 
])re>unie,  from  a  graceful  tuft  of  black  feathers  with 
which  it  is  crowne<L  Here  and  there  a  brace  of 
V(in\te}'os  soared  over  head,  uttering  tluir  jH'culiar 
rolling  notes  ;  the  hoarse  quacking  of  the  male  bird, 
followed  by  the  shrill  cries  of  the  female,  make  perfect 
the  before-mentioned  resemblance  to  the  rumbling  of 
cartwheels. 

During  the  moulting  season,  the  people  in  the 
neighborhood  of  tliesc  lagoons  resort  to  them  from 
time  to  time,  and  drive  without  ditliculty  towards  the 
farm-house  as  many  of  these  ducks  as  they  may  desire. 
I  was  assured  by  several  reliable  individuals  that  not 
far  from  San  Pablo  there  is  a  lagoon  on  the  borders 
of  which  a  regiment  of  cavalry  once  cncamjtcd,  and 
lived  during  a  fortnight  exclusively  on  these  l)irds, 
without  any  apparent  diminution  of  their  numbers. 

'I1iis  ]>ro(ligious  exuberance  of  animal  life  has 
justly  entitled  the  A]>i)ri-  t.>  tin-  ri Dutation  of  bi  int' 


J 


SAVANNAS  OF  APURR.  139 

a  land  of  plenty  ;  but,  alas,  it  is  also  a  land  of  death ! 
as,  from  the  bottom  of  these  extensive  marshes  mias- 
mas of  a  pestilential  nature  are  continually  arising, 
which,  at  certain  seasons  of  the  year,  render  this  fine 
country  almost  uninhabitable  for  man.  They  are 
also  the  abode  of  those  enormous  water-snakes  or  ana- 
condas, known  in  the  country  under  the  name  of 
culehms  de  agua,  in  contradistinction  to  the  boa  con- 
strictor or  traffa-vcnado,  so  termed  on  account  of  the 
ease  with  which  it  gorges  itself  with  a  whole  deer  at 
once.  Both  of  these  snakes  are  also  remarkable  for  the 
strength  which  enables  them  to  crush  their  victims  in 
the  coils  of  their  huge  muscular  bodies  ;  but  the  ana- 
conda is  by  far  the  more  voracious  and  bold  of  the 
two,  attacking  not  only  inferior  animals,  such  as 
deer,  capyvaras,  and  young  calves,  but  even  that  pride 
of  the  herd,  the  padrote,  cannot  always  escape  the 
deadly  embrace.  Woe  to  the  unsuspecting  colt  or 
heifer,  who,  panting  with  thirst  and  heat,  should  in- 
cautiously plunge  into  one  of  these  modern  Stygian 
lakes,  for  the  coil  of  the  monster  will  in  an  instant  be 
around  it,  followed  by  a  fearful  cracking  of  its  bones. 
This  accomplished,  the  snake  proceeds  to  cover  the 
whole  mangled  body  with  a  slimy  secretion  from  his 
mouth  which  assists  him  in  the  process  of  deglutition. 
Should  it  be  a  stag — the  head  of  Avhich  presents  the 
formidable  obstacle  of  its  huge  antlers — the  snake 
commences  by  swallowing  first  the  hind  quarters, 
trusting  to  time  and  the  natural  process  of  decay  for 
the  head  to  drop  off.  In  this  plight  the  anaconda  is 
often  found,  looking  like  an  immense  log,  stretched  out 
in  the  soft  mud  of  lagoons,  whence  they  are  then  easily 


140  TUAVKUS   ANI»   AllVKNTUKES. 

drnp;re<l  \>y  means  of  a  lazo,  tied  to  the  tail  of  a  Ijorsf. 
On  ixaiuiiiiu^  the  mouth  of  one  of  these  i>nuket>,  it 
will  he  founil  that  the  jaws  are  furni>hetl  with  a  row 
of  hharj)  anil  eroukeU  teeth,  hent  inward  like  tenter 
houks  ;  with  these  hu  K^izes  his  prey,  and  holds  it 
Fe<-urely  until  the  vietini,  unahle  to  8tru^<xle  lonj;er, 
drops  exhauste<l.  What  appears  most  extraortlinary 
in  these  uneijual  eontests,  is  the  tenaeity  with  whieli 
the  snake  adheres  to  the  soft  mud  of  the  laj^oon,  there 
bein«;  neither  rock  nor  stump  to  which  he  can  seeurc 
himself.  Nor  will  the  ell'orts  of  a  larj^e  bull,  no  mat- 
ter how  jtowerfuK  he  sullicient  to  dra^  the  snake  one 
inch  out  of  his  element,  unless  he  is  lirst  cut  asunder. 
In  dartint;  upon  a  (piadruped,  the  anaconda  inva- 
riably aims  at  its  snout,  the  aninuil  seldom  esca]iin|^ 
when  once  the  terrible  fan«rs  have  been  buriinl  in  its 
flesh.  It  is  not  an  unusiud  thinjx,  however,  for  a  bull 
to  cut  a  snake  asunder  in  his  violent  stru«:^les  ;  then 
the  sliaufry  victor  may  be  seen  ]»roudly  nuirchinj;  at 
the  head  of  his  trooj)  with  this  unsijrhtly  trophy  lianp- 
in;;  from  his  nose.  The  toujjhness  of  the  anacomla's 
pkin  makes  it  cnfrcrly  m.»u^ht  after  by  the  inhabitants 
for  straps  and  various  other  <»bjeot8  susceptible  of 
injury  from  friction,  as  they  outwear  those  ma<le  from 
any  other  material.  The  fat  is  also  much  e.«teeme<l 
for  burning:,  and  as  a  lubricator  for  the  bones  and 
tetulons  of  jiersons  afflicted  with  rheunulti^m,  or  riirid- 
ity  of  limb.  This  oil  is  ]»erfet!tly  char  and  transpa- 
rent, without  any  disaijreeable  tMlor,  and  is  readily  ab- 
sorbed int<»  the  system  by  simjily  rjibbiiiir  it  «»n  the 
fikin. 

Shortly  after  ]ca\iiii.'  S;in  rablo.  we  li;id  a  j-piritiil 


SAVANNAS  OF  APURE.  141 

chase  after  a  herd  of  wild  pip:^.  There  were  upwards 
of  twenty  browsiii<j^  on  the  borders  of  a  pond,  and  in  an 
instant  the  whole  phxin — in  such  repose  a  few  moments 
before — resounded  with  the  cries  and  clatter  of  our 
horsemen  in  eap^er  pursuit  of  this  delicious  game  of 
tlie  Llanos.  Many  of  the  men  being  provided  with 
lances,  they  had  no  difficulty  in  despatching  most  of 
those  whose  fate  threw  them  in  the  way  of  the  re- 
morseless cavaliers.  But  an  old  hcrraco  or  boar, 
which  seemed  to  be  the  sultan  of  the  grisly  commu- 
nity, harassed  by  the  combined  attacks  of  several 
horsemen,  suddenly  -whirled  round  and  made  a  gallant 
stand,  determined,  as  it  appeared,  not  to  give  up 
without  a  fierce  resistance.  At  first  it  was  supposed 
that  three  or  four  men  would  be  sufficient  to  bring 
him  down,  and  that  number  were  accordingly  sent 
after  him  ;  but  finding  the  engagement  protracted, 
several  others,  including  myself,  went  to  their  assist- 
ance. On  reaching  the  spot  a  fearful  spectacle  was 
jiresented  to  us.  The  infuriated  animal,  his  eyes 
shooting  fire,  and  fiercely  gi-inding  his  tusks,  stood  at 
bay  a  short  distance  from  his  aggressors,  his  mouth 
covered  with  a  bloody  froth,  while  one  of  the  men  lay 
bleeding  profusely  from  a  wound  on  the  thigh  inflicted 
Ity  the  sharp  tusks  of  the  boar.  "We  learned  that 
C'ipriano,  the  -wounded  hunter's  name,  perceiving  that 
the  lances  of  his  companions  only  succeeded  in  irritat- 
ing the  boar,  very  foolishly  leaj^ed  from  his  saddle, 
and  drawing  his  sword,  deliberately  attacked  him 
without  even  taking  the  jirecaution  of  covering  his 
movements  with  the  sheej^skin  from  his  saddle,  as  is 
practised    in    contests    with    Avild    bulls.      The    man 


Ij.j  TUAVKUS   AND   ADVENTURES. 

boa?ti'il  witli  n-nson  of  being  the  most  t^kilt'iil  mata«lnr 
in  all  the  AjMiiv;  hut  in  this  ca>e  he  «li«l  not  reckon 
on  the  tt»uj;h  hide  ot*  his  oj)j»unent  ;  for,  at  the  first 
rush  of  the  hoar  uj»on  him,  and  in  spite  of  the  steadi- 
TU'ss  with  whicli  he  aimed  the  stroke,  tlie  well-tem- 
pered steel  hent  like  a  reed  the  moment  it  encounteretl 
the  shoulder  of  the  hoar,  leaviuir  ("ijiriano  ei»nj](letely 
at  the  merey  of  the  enni<re<l  hrute.  The  conse<|Uenee, 
as  I  have  already  stated,  was  a  severe  ga>h,  almost 
laying  hare  the  femoral  hone  of  the  unfortunate 
matador.  Tlie  tusks  of  the  wild  hoar,  especially  those 
of  the  lower  jaw,  are  so  long  and  sharp,  that  the  ani- 
mal nntkes  use  of  them  as  a  hull  does  of  his  horns. 
The  upiH-r  ones  rest  directly  upon  the  lower,  and  his 
constant  grinding  of  them,  espe<-ially  when  he  is  en- 
raged, soon  wears  the  points  into  a  hrt»ad  and  .^^harp 
edge.  Tnite*!,  these  tusks  form  a  pi'rfe<t  circle  five 
or  si.\  inches  in  diameter.  The  services  of  our  surgeon. 
Dr.  (xallegos,  were  immediately  called  into  requisition, 
who  dressed  the  wound,  while  the  companions  of  the 
sutVi'ring  hunter  endeavored  to  avenge  him.  Tliey 
rained  a  shower  of  lances  upt)n  the  liody  of  the  en- 
raged beast,  but,  ajiparently,  with  no  better  effect  ; 
for,  with  one  powerful  stroke  of  his  tusks,  he  broke  in 
two  the  shaft  of  some  and  carrii'd  away  the  head  of 
others.  Doubtless  we  should  have  succeeded  in  fin- 
ishing him  after  a  time  ;  but  the  helpless  condition 
of  our  companion  requiring  especial  care,  we  ])laci'd 
him  on  his  saddle,  A)r  want  of  better  conveyance,  and, 
leaving  the  boar  <oii(puror,  ]»roceeded  on  our  journey. 
Having  kilh'd  nM>re  animals  than  we  could  con- 
vcnicntlv  carrv,  wc   selected    two  fat   sows  for  our 


SAVANNAS  OF  ArUltE.  X43 

breaktast,  and  left  iLe  remainder  to  the  flock  of 
turkey-buzzards  wliieli,  like  a  trooj)  of  hungry  scav- 
engers, followed  our  line  of  march  across  the  prairies. 

1  may  observe  here  that  the  wild  boar  of  the 
Llanos  is  the  common  hog  run  wild  in  conseipience 
of  the  little  or  no  care  bestowed  upon  their  breeding 
in  the  eattle-farms,  and  as  they  find  in  these  swamps 
all  the  elements  they  require  for  their  development, 
viz.,  roots  of  various  kinds,  sweet  herbs,  eels,  snakes, 
and  mire  ad  Uhiium^  their  propagation  is  greatly  in- 
creased. Tlius  the  number  of  pigs  in  these  savannas  is 
almost  incredible — in  the  lands  of  El  Frio  alone  being 
estimated  at  forty  thousand — and  a  just  idea  may  be 
formed  of  their  ravages  from  the  fact  that,  for  miles 
around,  those  fine  prairies  have  been  completely 
])loughed  up  by  them,  rendering  the  ground  exceed- 
ingly dangerous  for  horses,  and  almost  useless  for 
cattle-breeding,  by  destroying  the  fine  pastures  which 
are  invariably  replaced  by  a  crop  of  worthless  weeds. 

"Wild  hogs,  nevertheless,  sometimes  render  good 
service  by  destroying  the  snakes — for  which  they  seem 
to  have  a  particular  penchant — especially  that  little 
scourge  of  the  savannas  of  Apure,  the  dreaded  mata- 
cahallo. 

Tlie  tails  of  these  hogs  being  especially  long, 
and,  as  usual,  twisted,  they  swing  them  round  con- 
tinually when  ninning — a  peculiarity  which  did 
not  escape  a  benighted  son  of  Africa,  who  was  being 
trained  at  a  cattle-farm  to  the  business  of  the  Llanos, 
and  wliicli  occasioTied  quite  a  ludicrous  scene  at  one 
of  these  hunts.  lie  liad  become  already  expert  in  tlie 
use  of  the  lazo,  and  was  one  day  taken  to  the  savanna 


114  TUAVKI-S   AND   ADNTIXTURES. 

by  the  ovoriiciT  for  the  juiq^oge  of  j»rocurinp  un  ox  fur 
Bluujjlittr,  \\\wu  tlu'V  fell  in  with  n  fine  ho«;,  whicli  at 
oiKT  tluui^cd  thfir  plniih,  ami  they  iininediatt'ly  pavc 
liim  (•ha>e.  ^ione  of  the  men  had  laxos,  exeept  tlie 
iM'irro,  and  he  was  therefore  coiniiuuided  to  foUow 
iind  secure  the  pame  ;  hut  althoujrh  he  ro(h?  a  viry 
^^vift  hor»e,  and  was  ofteu  williiu  ranjrc  of  the  hizo,  lie 
was  observed  each  time   to  shuken  his  jtaee  witliout 

any    apparent    cause.     '*  Now  then son   of 

thy  mother,''  the   Llanero  vociferated,  "  let 

«ro  the  lazo,  or  we  will  roast  thee  alive  in  his  stead," 
shouting  at  him  also  many  other  no  less  eharacteristie 
expressions.  But  Sambo.  wavin«;  the  lazo  over  his 
head  in  order  to  keep  the  noose  oj»en,  would  apain 
stop  short  of  his  mark,  until  the  ]»iir,  who  jtrobably 
knew  by  this  time  that  he  was  wanted,  strainin^r  every 
nerve  to  reach  a  swamji  hard  by,  succcttled  at  last  in 
gaininrj  a  clump  of  wild  plantains  that  b<»rdere<l  tin- 
fstn-o.  Here  the  njajor-domo,  losin*;  his  small  rem- 
nant of  patience,  quickly  rode  up  to  him,  and  di^ 
char<rin_£j  sundry  lashes  with  his  chajMirro  ujxm  the 
sooty  skin  of  his  apprentice,  asked  him,  in  a  thunder- 
inj^  voice  :  "  How  now,  my  vuudry  why  did  ye  let  the 
fellow  go  without  a  single  effort  cm  thy  }>art  to  secure 
him  i  Have  not  I  taught  thee  well  enough  how  to 
handle  a  lazo,  thou  s<K)ty  imp  ?  *'  "  Oh  I  yessa,  mas- 
sa,"  (juoth  the  <larkey ;  "  but,  look  yer,  massa,  when 
me  wisher  to  lazo  jtig,  him  wisher  to  lazo  me  nei- 
ther ;  "  imitating,  at  the  same  time,  with  his  arm  the 
swinging  of  the  i»ig's  tail. 

Very  beautiful  was  the  aj^pcarance  of  the  many 
herds,  each  h'-adid  by  iis pad rok,  on  all  ^-idi-^  .ji-jurs- 


SAVANNAS  OF   Al'UHE.  14,j 

ing  at  our  approach.  The  hulls  arc  n;enerally  of  a 
grave  and  quiet  disposition  when  collected  in  herds, 
and  rather  avoid  the  approach  of  man  unless  provoked 
to  self-defence,  Avhen  they  become  very  ferocious. 
Each  troop  is  under  the  control  of  the  most  powerful 
bull  in  the  drove,  a  position  which  is  only  attained  by 
dint  of  strength  and  courage  ;  as  not  only  has  he  to 
defend  his  troop  from  the  attacks  of  the  common  ene- 
my, but  to  maintain  his  supremacy  against  rival  ena- 
morados.  Thus  the  padrote,  or  big  father,  as  he  is 
appropriately  styled,  can  show  many  scars  upon  his 
tough  hide,  received  in  these  fierce  combats.  If  a  lion 
or  jaguar  approach  during  the  night,  the  padrote  im- 
mediately takes  all  his  measures  for  the  defence  of  his 
post.  His  first  care  is  to  compel  the  herd  into  a  com- 
pact mass,  and  then  advances  to  engage  the  enemy  in 
single  combat,  from  which  ho  rarely  fails  to  come  off 
victorious.  In  the  mean  time  the  herd,  within  the 
limited  space  into  which  they  have  been  congregated, 
with  heads  lowered  towards  the  enemy,  prepare  to 
repulse  the  intruder  and  defend  their  young  by  a  for- 
midable array  of  horns. 

Man  is  the  only  antagonist  whose  superiority  the 
padrote  will  acknowledge  ;  but  even  this  is  not  with- 
out an  obstinate  resistance  whenever  he  has  an  opportu- 
nity. Nor  will  he  retire  in  a  hurry  from  his  pursuers, 
but  lacing  about  from  time  to  time,  often  succeeds  in 
thwarting  their  intentions  and  securing  an  honorable 
retreat. 

"When  the  sun  is  high  in  the  meridian,  troops  of 
these  noble  animals  may  be  seen  slowly  advancing 
towards  the  nearest  mata,  seeking  to  avoid  the  exces- 
7 


140  TUAVELS  AND  AUVENTUKES. 

give  heat  of  the  day  and  to  enjoy  their  siei^ta  in  cool 
rctirenjent.  Here  they  amuse  themt>elvej>  sometinie.- 
in  watching  over  their  harems,  feometimeu  in  makin'.' 
their  toilet,  which  is  nibhing  the  j>oiMt  ol*  their  honib 
against  the  hard  trunk  of  a.  jtalm  tree,  or  any  other 
ciuivenient  t>l)ject,  until  they  b«.'come  sharp  as  awls. 
"NVoe  I  then,  to  the  imprudent  traveller  who,  over- 
powered by  the  heat,  seeks  refuire  in  <»ne  of  those 
groves,  thus  intrudin<x  up(»n  the  sanctuary  of  his  bull- 
fchip's  seraglio.  Should  he  Bueceed  ii»  escaping  safe 
and  sound,  his  horse  is  certain  of  being  <i<:verely  chas- 
tised for  his  master's  indiscretion. 

An  adventurous  Briton,  who  once  j»eyo*rated  into 
one  of  tho.se  haunts  sacred  to  Taurus,  came  very 
near  losing  his  life  in  constN|uence.  He  forruiiately 
escaped  with  only  a  few  scratches  and  contusions  ;  but 
his  clothes  were  torn  from  his  body  by  the  horns  and 
hoofs  of  the  liull.  It  ihanced  in  this  wise  :  The  inten- 
Bity  of  the  sun's  rays  had  compilleil  the  traveller  and 
his  eomj»anion — a  shri'wd  old  Llanero,  who  acted  as 
guide — to  seek  shelter  under  a  solitary  grove.  On  a 
closer  acquaintance  they  judged  it  to  be  the  retreat 
of  a  wild  bull,  from  the  deep  scars  observable  on  the 
bark  of  the  trees,  evidently  causetl  by  some  animars 
horns.  Tliey  were  not  mistaken,  for  they  soon  dis- 
covered at  a  short  distance,  quietly  grazing,  the  ]>rob- 
able  owner  of  the  rural  retreat.  Knowing  fr»»m  ex- 
perience that  this  would  be  a  very  unsafe  s]>ot  for  their 
siesta,  the  Llanero  advised  that  they  slundd  move  off 
at  once,  rather  than  be  ejected  thence,  as  would  stirely 
be  the  case  if  tlicy  ntnainrtl  n»uch  loniier.  But  .lolin 
Bull,  with   characteristic  ]>ridr.  and  tru&tiiig  entirely 


SAVANNAS  OF  APURE.  147 

to  his  fine  brace  of  pistols,  laiifjjlicd  at  the  idea  of  giv- 
ing np  liis  comfortable  quarters,  without  at  least  a 
struggle  for  their  possession.  Ordering  the  man  to 
sling  his  hammock,  he  carefully  examined  his  pistols, 
after  whicli  he  retired  to  his  aerial  couch.  The  Lhmero 
shook  his  head  and  very  wisely  omitted  unsaddling 
the  horses,  contenting  himself  with  merely  imfastcning 
the  straps.  Presently  the  bull  began  to  advance  in 
the  direction  of  the  mata,  which  the  phlegmatic  Eng- 
lishman no  sooner  perceived,  than  quitting  his  ham- 
mock, he  seized  his  pistols  and  went  to  the  encounter. 
The  Llanero  crossed  himself,  and  taking  the  horses 
aside,  proceeded  to  secure  the  saddles  and  to  tie  the 
lazo  to  the  tail  of  his  own  steed.  In  the  mean  time 
the  bull  continued  leisurely  advancing,  apparently 
without  much  noticing  his  uninvited  guests;  occasion- 
ally, however,  uttering  deep  bcllowings  expressive  of 
his  displeasure.  Bang  !  bang  !  went  the  two  pistols  ; 
but  before  the  smoke  had  cleared,  the  Llanero  beheld 
his  companion  stretched  upon  the  ground  and  fiercely 
trampled  under  the  feet  of  the  infuriated  animal. 
Swift  as  thought,  the  Llanero  sprang  into  the  saddle, 
and  spreading  his  lazo,  whirled  it  two  or  three  times 
above  his  head  ;  then  let  it  fall  around  the  horns  of 
the  bull  at  the  very  instant  he  was  about  to  transfix 
the  prostrate  traveller.  Tlius  providentially  prevent- 
ed from  doing  further  injury,  he  was  easily  hamstrung 
and  finally  despatched  by  the  captors.  That  the  Eng- 
lishman escaped  being  instantly  killed,  can  only  be 
accounted  fur  by  the  fact  that  a  bull  often  misses  his 
auu  from  the  verv  furv  of  his  attack. 


CIIAITKK   XI. 


On  arriving  at  El  F'rio,  we  were  agreeably  sur- 
prised at  finding  more  ppacious  acconiinodations  than 
■\ve  had  anticipated.  The  house,  although  thatched 
like  all  the  rest  ^vith  palm  leaves,  was  s])acious  and 
well  built  oi  jhijareqxte  ;  that  is,  the  framework  of  the 
walls  was  of  strong  jiosts  of  timber,  well  lathed  and 
j)histered  over  with  soft  mud  mixed  with  straw.  lu 
adilition  to  a  largo  sal<i  or  reception  room,  it  con- 
tained three  or  four  sleeping  apartments ;  but  these 
last  were  so  full  of  bats,  that  it  was  impossible  to  pass 
a  comfortable  night  in  them,  especially  on  account  of 
the  disagreeable  odor  proceeding  from  these  disgust- 
ing creatures,  while  the  incessant  bird-like  chirping 
sound  which  they  made  overhead,  completely  mur- 
dered our  first  night's  sleep.  "We  tried  in  vain  to 
smoke  them  out  by  means  of  dried  cow  dung.  Tliey 
absented  themselves  during  a  portion  of  the  day,  but 
were  sure  to  return  at  dusk,  bringing  with  them  an 
abundant  suj»ply  of  wild  berries  for  their  8Upi)er, 
some  of  which  they  were  constantly  dropping  in  our 


EL  FRIO.  149 

hammocks,  finally  compelling  us  to  seek  refuge  in  the 
open  air  of  the  corridors  and  courtyard. 

Apart  from  the  mansion  stood  a  row  of  smaller 
structures  containing  the  kitclien  and  storerooms  of 
the  farm,  which  being  useless  to  us,  we  abandoned  to 
the  bats  and  turkey-buzzards.  Our  cooking,  as  usual, 
was  left  to  our  skilful  chef  Monico  and  his  satellites, 
who  preferred  the  sans  facon  style  of  the  camp  to 
contining  themselves  iu  the  narrow  range  of  a  kitchen. 

That  which  chiefly  attracted  my  attention  at  this 
farm  was  the  substantial  nature  of  the  fence  encom- 
passing the  buildings,  capable  of  resisting  not  only 
the  sudden  rush  of  a  herd  of  cattle,  for  which  purpose 
it  was  intended,  but  also  a  heavy  cannonade,  in  case 
of  need.  It  was  constructed  of  enormous  blocks  of 
trees,  almost  impervious  to  steel  or  fire,  driven  into 
the  ground,  each  as  close  to  the  other  as  possible,  and 
neatly  trimmed  at  top  so  as  to  present  an  even  sur- 
face. I  was  unable  to  comprehend  by  wliat  means 
those  monster  rails  could  have  been  removed  from  the 
forest.  This,  I  afterwards  ascertained,  had  been  ac- 
complished during  the  inundation  of  the  savannas, 
when  they  are  easily  transported  in  halsas  or  rafts 
made  of  lighter  wood.  Tlie  trees  yielding  this  ever- 
lasting timber  are  two  distinct  species  of  acacias, 
known  in  the  country  under  the  euphonious  names 
of  Angel ino  and  Acapj^o,  cither  of  which  will  turn 
the  edge  of  the  best  tempered  steel  if  great  care  is  not 
used.  I  was  shown  here  two  uprights  to  the  princi- 
pal gate  of  tlie  majada  or  great  enclosure  for  cattle, 
nearly  a  hundred  years  old,  still  in  perfect  preserva- 


150  TKAVi:i-><   AM)   ADVENTURES. 

tion,  nlthoiifrh  standinu:  in  soil  subject  to  alternate  in- 
undatiuiis  ami  jtarrhini;  lieats. 

The  f/i(ij(uhi,  also  funned  of  Ftronp  posts,  was 
sullic'iontly  spacious  to  contain  tlirec  thousand  an- 
imals, with  compartments  for  the  accommodation  of 
the  herds  during  the  various  operations  of  cattle 
farms.  Although  there  was  abundant  vegetable 
material  for  the  comfort  or  security  of  the  inmates,  I 
observed  here,  as  everywhere,  a  total  want  of  shade 
trees  around  the  houses.  Tlie  Llaneros,  although 
strongly  addicted  to  the  "sweets  of  savage  life,"  are 
decidedly  opjMtscd  to  trees  in  the  immediate  ncighbor- 
liood  of  their  dwellings.  Trees,  say  they,  attract  the 
thunderbolt  of  heaven  and  the  wild  beasts  of  the  tield, 
being  besides  the  natTjral  refuge  of  snakes  and  mos- 
cpiitoes  during  the  great  floods.  This  lack  of  shade 
was  the  more  regretted  by  us  as  we  were  then  in  the 
midst  of  the  summer  solstice,  when  the  sim  i>ours  its 
vertical  rays  upon  the  dry  soil,  while  each  day  be- 
tween the  hours  of  ten  and  eleven,  a  strong  breeze 
arose,  sweejung  over  the  exposed  plain,  and  l>ringing 
with  it  showers  of  sand  ;  this  lodged  in  our  mouths, 
eyes  and  ears,  and  mingled  with  the  food,  thus  render- 
ing it  unpalatable  even  to  our  carnivorous  ajipctitcs. 
And  yet,  but  a  short  distance  from  the  house  bloomed 
an  iiiviting  grove,  two  or  three  njilcs  in  circumfer- 
ence ;  this  a  man  of  taste  could  have  readily  converted 
into  a  delightful  .abode,  especially  as  in  the  ruiny  season 
Uie  inundati<»n  of  the  surrounding  savannas  would 
permit  the  a]t]iroa<h  of  vessels  from  the  Orinoco,  by 
which  the  owner  could  supply  himself  with  all  the 
comforts  of  civilized  life.     This  charming  spot  was 


1 


EL  FRIO.  151 

further  cmhcllishod  by  a  small  lako,  M'licre  wc  daily 
watered  our  horses,  though  not  without  some  risk  to 
lite  and  limb  on  account  of  the  hahas  and  caimans 
swarming  in  its  depths.  Even  the  shallower  portions 
were  so  filled  with  sting-ra^'S,  caribes,  and  other 
aijuatic  vermin,  as  to  render  bathing  in  it  extremely- 
hazardous.  Our  ablutions,  therefore,  were  limited  to 
the  occasional  scrubbing  of  our  dusty  and  heated 
bodies  with  wet  towels.  The  hahas,  although  still 
more  repulsive  in  appearance  than  their  relative  of 
the  long  snout — the  crocodile — are  considered  a  honne 
hour/u'y  especially  the  tail,  the  flesh  of  which  is  said 
to  rival  chicken  in  its  flavor.  From  this  uninviting 
fount  of  the  desert,  necessity  compelled  us  to  replenish 
our  gourds  each  afternoon,  that  the  particles  of  sand 
and  clay  with  which  it  was  filled  might  have  time  to 
settle  during  the  night. 

The  summer  breezes,  although  disagreeable  in 
many  respects,  are  yet  most  necessary,  carrying  ojff 
noxious  exhalations  arising  from  the  marshy  deposits 
which  remain  in  those  low  irrounds  long  after  the 
waters  have  subsided  ;  otherwise  those  regions  would 
be  uninhabitable.  The  Apure  is  especially  salubrious 
ill  the  dry  season,  and  were  it  not  for  their  impru- 
dences, the  inhabitants  would  enjoy  perfect  health 
during  at  least  seven  months  of  the  year.  But  these 
people,  careless  of  consequences,  and  trusting  to  their 
iron  constitutions,  arc  not  deterred,  while  in  the  ex- 
citement of  a  long  chase,  from  plunging  into  one  of 
these  pestiferous  marshes  after  the  object  of  their  pur- 
suit. The  result  is  a  severe  reaction  of  the  system, 
followed  by  violent  spasms,  fevers,  or  that  most  horrid 


153  T1:a\i.i.>  AM)  Ai)\  i.Mi  ia.s. 

of  disoartts,  ek'itliantiasis  or  mal  de  Sun  LazarOy  po 
prevaknt  in  tlie  hot  re<ijion8  of  tro]>K-al  America. 
AiUl  to  this  iefkle!-.snc»>s  the  great  want  of  medical 
rcsourccfi  in  tlie  country,  and  the  conteciuent  wretch- 
edness and  misery  can  be  readily  imairined.  Never- 
theless, the  inhabitants  seem  to  care  so  little  about 
these  endemic  vicissitudes,  that  in  time  one  accustoms 
himself  also  to  view  them  in  the  same  si)irit  of  fatal- 
ism which  they  attach  to  every  event  of  their  lives. 

I  was  never  weary  of  admiring  the  beauty  of  the 
sky  and  transparency  of  the  atmosphere  at  this  Beason. 
Objects  three  or  four  miles  distant  appeared  as  if 
actually  only  a  few  rods  from  the  beholder,  a  circ-um- 
stancc  which  often  misled  me  when  in  my  randdes 
after  game  1  had  to  traverse  the  jjlain  c»n  foot,  occa- 
sioning frequent  disapj)ointmcnts  in  my  reckonings. 

TIjo  radiation  of  heat  evolved  from  the  earth  at 
night,  produced  by  the  perfect  cleaniess  of  the  sky, 
was  so  great  at  times  as  to  i>roduce  a  very  sensible 
degree  of  cold,  which  rendered  the  nse  of  blankets 
quite  accej)tablc ;  hence  the  name  of  7:7  Frio  given 
to  this  estate.  The  evenings,  especially,  were  so  raw 
and  chilly,  that  in  order  to  keep  warm,  we  passed  a 
great  portion  of  the  night  in  revelry  and  dancing  by 
moonlight,  although  not  one  crincdine  graced  our 
Sfiirees.  But  we  had  excellent  dancers  of  the  Z<ipatio^ 
a  sort  of  ''  breakdown,"  in  which  most  of  our  men 
exhibited  a  llcxibility  of  feet  and  ankles  which  would 
have  done  credit  to  the  most  accomidished  Ethioj^ian 
troop. 

Our  host  hO  Juan  ^lanucl,  as  the  overseer  was 
familiarly  styb-.l,  l.:nl  .  ii.'m./.-.I  tl,..  si-rvices  of  a  cele- 


EL  FRIO.  153 

brated  player  on  the  lanclola  from  Banco  Largo,  and 
there  being  no  hick  of  imjirovisafori  among  ns,  these 
nightly  revels  were  conducted  with  all  the  cdat  that 
circumstances  would  ]iermit.  Among  the  bards  who 
distinguished  themselves  most  at  such  times  were  the 
jVc(/)'0  Quintana,  an  old  Sergeant  of  the  Guard,  whose 
constant  attendance  for  many  years  on  liis  beloved 
Chief  and  "Master,"  as  he  styled  the  General,  had 
endeared  him  to  the  latter ;  and  Sarmiento,  as  the 
other  was  named,  who  acted  in  the  capacity  of  capo- 
ral  to  the  cattle  farm  of  San  Pablo.  Both  of  these 
made  themselves  famous  by  the  wonderful  facility 
with  which  they  improvised  on  any  given  subject. 
They  occasionally  varied  the  performances  by  singing 
to  their  guitars  ballads  whose  burden  was  invariably 
some  adventure  arising  from  the  eventful  life  in  the 
pampas.  Of  these  choice  morccaux  the  most  popular 
were  "  Mambrun,"  an  imitation  of  the  old  French 
song,  "  Malbrooh  s'cn  fut  en  guerre,^''  and  "  ^Marcc- 
lino,"  Tlie  liero  of  this  last  was  a  renowned  bandit, 
who  for  a  long  time  baffled  all  efforts  to  capture  him, 
but  who  finally  received  Iiis  deserts  from  the  hands 
of  a  traitor,  who  joined  his  forays  for  the  purpose  of 
betraying  him  to  his  enemies. 

^farcelino  was  a  common  peon  in  one  of  the 
cuttle  farms  bordering  the  river  Matiyure,  but  being 
of  a  restless  and  daring  disposition,  preferred  the 
roving  life  of  a  bandit  to  the  more  sober  occupations 
of  the  farm.  Finding  himself  pursued  by  the  hand 
of  justice,  he  was  comj)elled  for  a  time  to  seek  refuge 
among  the  Indians  south  of  the  great  river  Meta.  mIio 
are  at  this  day  sole  tenants  of  those  immeasurable 
7* 


154  TKAVKI„S  AND  ADVENTURES. 

wild?.  His  superior  acquirements  and  boldness  soon 
pained  him  the  c-ontidence  and  respcet  of  the  savages, 
wlio  finiilly  adopted  him  for  tlieir  leader,  followin;; 
him  in  his  marauding  expeditions  against  the  defenee- 
less  cattle  farms  this  side  of  the  Arauca.  Embold- 
ened by  success,  they  attacked  the  wealthy  town  of 
that  name,  whence  Mar«elino  carried  oil'  a  beautiful 
Woman,  the  wife  of  a  respectable  farmer  of  the  place, 
who  employed  every  means  in  his  j)owcr  to  recover 
her.  All  ellorts,  however,  were  for  a  time  fruitless, 
owing  to  the  wild  nature  of  the  country  and  the  cun- 
ning of  her  ca])tor;  but  he  was  linally  taken  in  one 
of  his  e.xpeditiims.  The  intention  had  been  to  send 
him  to  Achaguas,  with  which  object  he  was  well 
bound  and  j)lace<l  under  a  strong  escort ;  but  being 
a  great  favorite  with  all  classes  of  Llaneros,  who  ad- 
mire valor  in  every  form,  he  was  linally  given  in 
charge  of  the  famous  Manuel  Blanco — a  rich  land 
owner  of  the  Apure — at  the  earnest  solicitation  o(  the 
latter,  who  jjromised  to  see  him  safely  delivered  to 
the  authorities.  Un  the  way  thither,  however,  Mar- 
celino  managed  to  give  his  bondsman  the  slij>,  and 
escaped  to  his  favorite  haunts  again.  All  further 
attem])ts  to  retake  him  failing  at  that  time,  a  bold 
sambo  from  the  ujiper  ctuintry  volunteered  to  ])cne- 
trate  into  the  unknown  region,  intending  to  decoy 
him  and  his  savage  band  to  a  certain  cattle  farm 
where  a  strong  picket  of  cavalry  would  lie  in  wait. 
Having  represented  to  Marcelino  that  immcn>r 
wealth  in  nunu-y  and  jewels  was  possessed  by  tlir 
owners  of  the  farm,  the  bandit  concluded  to  come  out 
of  his  fastness  and  retrieve  his  former  fume  by  a  bold 


EL  FRIO.  155 

dash  at  the  cattle  farm  of  Ilerradero.  On  arriving  at 
tlie  place,  where  matters  having  been  arranged  as  had 
been  agreed  upon  between  Maldonado — the  betray- 
er's aii])ro])riate  name — and  the  officers  of  justice,  Mar- 
cclino  and  his  band  were  surprised.  lie  endeavored 
to  escape,  but  Maldonado  spurring  his  horse  toward 
the  unsuspecting  bandit,  pierced  him  with  his  sword. 
Without  delaying  he  then  pushed  on,  followed  by  the 
hatey'os,  to  the  camp  where  the  unfortunate  lady  was 
still  a  captive.  They  found  her  surrounded  by  a  train 
of  red  skin  dames  of  honor,  all  of  whom  were  after- 
ward distributed  as  servants  among  the  families  of 
their  conquerors. 

Nearly  all  the  Indians  of  that  tribe  were  destroyed 
on  this  occasion,  only  a  few  escaping  to  the  Big 
Forest,  where  they  bewailed  among  the  monkeys  and 
jaguars  of  those  solitudes  the  loss  of  their  favorite 
chieftain.  Tlie  ballad  which  commemorates  the 
event,  commences : 

"  A  Marcclino  lo  mataron 
En  el  liato  de  Ilerradero, 
Y  los  ludios  lo  lloraron 
•  A  su  capitan  vaquero." 

Marcelino  the  bold  was  slain. 

Slain  at  the  farm  of  Herradero  ; 

And  the  Indians  lament  in  vain 

Tlieir  loved  sportsman,  chieftain  and  hero. 

Maldonado,  who  at  heart  was  a  rogue  of  the  same 
stamp  as  Marcelino,  having  tasted  of  the  independent 
roving  life  of  the  bandit,  found  it  so  congenial  that  he 
concluded  to  follow  the  illustrious   example  of  his 


luO  IKAVl-LS   AND    ADVKNTUUHS. 

fonner  leader  and  npsociatc  ;  }»ut  waiitinj^  in  the  i>rin- 
eipal  traits  wliieli  had  raised  the  latter  to  Lis  exalted 
|>oti.iti(in,  was  j^peedily  destroyed  and  alniust  precibely 
in  tluj  same  manner  which  he  had  devisetl  for  the 
overthrow  of  the  renowned  Marcelino.  Previous  to 
this,  however,  ^laldunado,  in  imitation  of  his  former 
ehieftain,  and  availing;  himself  of  th^  defenceless  state 
of  the  t(»wn  of  (iuasdualito,  attempted  to  carry  off 
from  thence  la  Villafafie,  a  lady  celel»ratcd  for  her 
heauty.  AVith  this  intent,  he  broujrhf  to  her  door  a 
horse  already  saddled  for  her,  and  commanded  her  to 
mount  and  ftdlow  him.  This  she  indi^rnantly  refused 
to  do  ;  hut  lindiui;  all  entreaties  and  resistance  of  no 
avail,  she  seized  some  poison  from  a  dmwer  at  hand, 
and  with  resolution  worthy  of  a  Konum  matron, 
jdaced  it  to  her  lips,  exelaiminfr,  as  she  did  so,  that 
she  would  surely  swallow  it  if  he  did  not  instantly 
(juit  her  ])resence.  The  threat  proved  successful ;  lor 
the  bandit,  awed  hy  her  hen»ism.  left  her. 

Tlie  business  of  the  pampas  re<iuirid  us  to  be  uji 
at  the  lirst  peej)  of  dawn.  A  cup  of  cotfee  and  milk, 
mixed  with  jrround  j»arched  corn — which  I  \vo\ihl 
recommend  to  all  travelh-rs  on  Ion*:  jimrneys  of  this 
sort — served  us  until  l)reakf;ist  time.  I  amuse<l  my- 
self during  the  day  sketching  in  comi>any  with  my 
friend,  Mr.  Tliomas,  while  the  men  made  their  prep- 
arations for  a  grand  hunt  amojig  the  cattle  of  the 
estate.  The  mo>t  important  of  these  arrangements 
was  that  of  manufacturing  from  hides  sullicient  lazos 
for  the  sport.  There  is  a  marked  difference  between 
the  skins  of  bullocks  raised  in  the  shady  part4»  of  the 


EL   FRIO.  157 

Llanos  and  those  roaming  wild  over  the  deserts  of  the 
Apure.  Although  the  former  are  much  tliicker,  the 
lazos  made  from  the  hides  of  cattle  constantly  ex- 
posed to  the  sun's  rays  are  infinitely  stronger.  The 
lazo  is  easily  made.  A  fresh  hide,  spread  upon  the 
ground  with  the  hair  downward,  is  neatly  cut  into  a 
long  strap  two  inches  wide.  This  is  twisted  into  a 
tight  thong  and  stretched  out  to  dry  between  two 
posts,  after  which  it  is  well  rubbed  with  fat.  When 
thoroughly  dried,  a  loop  is  made  at  one  end  ;  through 
this,  when  required  for  use,  the  thong  is  passed,  forming 
the  noose  or  lazo  proper,  while  the  other  end  is  firmly 
tied  to  the  horse's  tail,  using  its  long  hair  for  the  pur- 
pose. In  other  parts  of  South  America  they  fasten 
the  lazo  to  a  ring  in  the  saddle ;  but  this  arrangement, 
besides  causing  too  great  strain  upon  the  horse's  back, 
is  fraught  with  danger  to  the  rider  in  case  of  a  recoil 
from  the  thong  if  a  break  occur.  The  thorough  train- 
ing which  horses  receive  in  the  Llanos  is  invaluable 
in  such  cases,  as  not  oidy  does  the  success  of  the  chase 
depend  on  the  readiness  with  which  he  obeys  his 
rider,  but  even  after  the  game  is  secured  with  the 
lazo,  it  is  necessary  that  the  horse  should  range  in- 
stantly on  a  line  with  the  struggling  victim ;  but 
unless  this  is  effected  before  the  strain  comes  upon 
the  lazo,  the  horse  and  his  rider  are  inevitably  over- 
thrown. The  hunter,  at  the  moment  of  using  the  lazo, 
coils  a  portion  of  the  thong,  which  he  holds  with  his 
left  hand,  and  with  the  rest  forms  the  running  noose, 
which  is  repeatedly  whirled  around  his  head  to  keep 
it  open.  "When  witliiu  reach  of  his  mark,  he  aims  at 
the  animal's  head  and  throws  the  noose  in  such  a 


158  TR.VVEI-S   AND   ADVE.VTCRES. 

manner  as  t<»  caupe  a  rapid  uncoiling  of  tlie  tlionp  in 
liis  left  hunii.  Some  Llaneros  are  so  expert  as  to 
entaii<^le  at  the  same  instant  the  teet  and  liead  of 
the  animal,  on  which  he  is  quickly  brought  to  the 
ground. 

We  were  joined  at  FA  Trio  l»y  another  party  of 
cattle  liunters,  under  the  leadership  of  an  old  ac- 
<liiaintance.  Colonel  Castejon,  videly  celebrated  in 
the  Llanos  fi»r  great  bravery  and  skill  in  the  pursuits 
of  the  country.  He  came  to  help  us  in  the  hunt  after 
wild  cattle,  and  to  help  himself  to  as  many  animals 
as  he  could  drive  home  with  his  j)arty.  We  also  had 
the  Ijonor  of  a  visit  from  the  Governor  of  the  Prov- 
ince, Sefior  Arciniega,  a  jovial,  talkative,  and  well- 
informed  functionary,  and  the  most  acromj)lished 
marksman  of  the  Ai>ure.  It  was  therefore  jiroposed 
to  have  a  grand  shooting  match  in  the  ojten  lield,  and 
with  this  view  we  all  started  one  morning  for  a  creek 
called  Macanillal,  about  three  miles  distant,  intending 
to  use  the  crocodiles,  by  far  the  most  ditlicult  animal 
to  shoot,  as  targets.  On  entering  the  woody  Itanks 
of  the  creek,  we  were  agreeably  suq)rised  to  discover 
on  the  soft  mud  evident  proofs  that  we  had  come  in 
the  right  direction,  not  only  for  our  anticipated  p]>ort 
with  the  water  monsters,  but  also  that  we  were  likely 
to  have  a  brush  with  even  a  more  formidable  antag- 
onist— the  jaguar.  Footj^rints  of  this  Pplcn<lid  an- 
imal were  so  numerous,  that  we  forgot  for  a  time  the 
crocodihs  and  made  diligent  search  for  the  nobler 
game.  We  had  small  success,  lutwcver,  having  no 
dogs  with  us  to  drive  him  from  the  jungle ;  for,  un- 


EL  FRIO.  159 

less  he  has  the  advantage  over  his  adversaries,  the 
jaguar  never  shows  himself  in  the  day-time. 

As  we  came  in  sight  of  the  water,  I  was  aston- 
ished at  seeing  its  whole  surface  bubbling  as  if  in  a 
state  of  effervescence,  and  at  finding  also  on  nearer 
inspection  that  this  was  occasioned  by  the  blowing 
close  to  the  water's  surface  of  millions  of  coporos. 
Other  varieties  offish  were  also  so  al)undant,  that  we 
shot  many  near  the  shore,  among  them  a  very  fine 
cattish. 

The  report  of  the  guns  brought  to  the  surface 
numbers  of  crocodiles,  which  we  prepared  to  assail 
from  the  high  bank  of  the  creek.  To  our  honorable 
guest,  the  Governor,  was  conceded  the  privilege  of 
shooting  the  first,  which  he  did  with  great  accuracy, 
sending  a  ball  directly  through  one  of  the  creature's 
eyes.  Still  the  shot  did  not  kill  him  instantly,  as 
would  have  been  the  result  with  any  other  animal ; 
and  he  plunged  through  the  creek  for  a  time  at  a 
furious  rate,  lashing  the  water  with  his  powerful  tail, 
and  causing  great  commotion  among  the  finny  mul- 
titude. The  other  crocodiles  in  lieu  of  being 
alarmed  with  the  uproar,  were  only  rendered  more 
inquisitive,  dashing  forward  with  gleaming  eyes  and 
tusks,  which  so  fascinated  my  friend  the  English 
artist,  as  rather  endangered  his  safety  in  his  eager- 
ness to  get  a  thorough  view  of  the  reptiles.  Forget- 
ting his  proximity  to  the  precipice,  he  approached  it 
so  nearly  as  to  miss  his  footing,  and  would  doubtless 
have  rolled  into  one  of  the  open  jaws  below  him,  but 
for  the  ])rompt  assistance  of  a  companion,  who  caught 
him  as  he  was  in  the  act  of  falling. 


ICO  TRAVELS  AND   aim  i .s  i  l  iii^. 

From  the  same  i)lace  where  the  liriit  ehot  was 
fired,  we  Bucceeded  in  killinj;  or  wounding  not  less 
than  twenty  erocodiles  ;  but  the  banks  beinj^  high 
an<i  j>rL'cii)itou8,  we  could  not  secure  the  carcai^es. 
One  ol*  these,  which  lay  stranded  on  a  sand  bank 
across  the  creek,  being  charactcri/ed  by  a  singular 
hump  on  his  back,  which  added  to  his  alrcntly  mon- 
strous size,  I  felt  a  great  desire  to  examine  more 
closely.  To  accomplish  this,  it  was  necessary  to  ford 
the  creek  lower  down,  where  I  was  assured  the  water 
was  sufheiently  low  to  allow  of  walking  over.  The 
undertaking  was  nt»t,  however,  without  considerable 
risk  from  the  numerous  sting-rays  and  caribes.  JJut 
my  interest  in  all  pertaining  to  Nature's  works  hel]»cd 
me  over  to  the  other  side,  whither  I  was  accompanied 
by  Koseliano,  a  youth  attached  to  my  family,  famed 
as  a  dare-devil.  "With  his  assistance  I  dragged  the 
crocodile  partly  «»ut  of  water,  and  was  examining  the 
load  which  nature  had  i>laccd  ujton  his  back,  when 
Koseliano  perceived  a  movement  of  one  of  his  eyes, 
the  other  having  been  shattered  l)V  the  bullet ;  we 
supposed  he  had  been  by  this  time  quite  dead.  My 
young  companion,  who  had  expressed  his  suspicions 
that  the  cnK-odile  was  only  feigning  death,  wishing 
to  ascertain  the  truth,  ])ro|x>sed  stabbing  him  in  the 
armpit  with  his  dagger.  Before  j>crmitting  this,  I 
insisted  ujxin  securing  the  jaws  by  means  <»f  a  large 
stake  which  we  sharpened  at  one  end  and  j»lunged 
into  his  no-trils.  and  I  then  leaned  U]»»n  it  with  the 
whole  weight  of  my  body.  This  ]>recaution  save<i 
my  companion,  but  came  very  near  jtroving  fatal  to 
Tiivxlf.  a-  tlif  iii>t:uit  the   cn.codih"  fi-lt    the  cold  steel 


EL  FRIO.  IQl 

between  his  ribs  he  raised  his  enormous  head,  lifting 
me  at  least  a  foot  from  the  ground  ;  but  was  i)re- 
vented  from  injuring  me  by  the  stake  which  he 
caught  between  his  powerful  tusks,  shattering  it  to 
splinters,  and  then  retreated  to  the  middle  of  the 
creek.  His  triumph  was,  however,  of  short  dura- 
tion ;  for,  the  blood  oozing  in  torrents  from  his 
wounds,  he  quickly  fell  a  prey  to  thousands  of 
hungry  caribes. 

Sir  Kobert  Schomburgh  relates  an  incident  which 
occurred  during  his  ascent  of  the  river  Berbice,  and 
which  further  demonstrates  the  tenacity  of  life  in  the 
cayman.  "  One  was  fired  at,  floating,  and  the  ball 
took  off  the  end  of  the  snout ;  it  received  another  im- 
mediately afterward  in  the  hinder  part  of  the  skull 
which  appeared  to  have  taken  effect ;  still,  the  In- 
dians were  not  sparing  in  their  blows,  and  when  there 
was  not  much  likelihood  of  its  possessing  a  spark  of 
life,  it  was  deposited  on  the  bow  of  one  of  the  corials. 
"Wliilc  the  corial  was  drawn  across  the  rapids,  two  of 
the  Arawaaks  got  courage  and  took  it  up  in  order  to 
lay  it  in  a  more  convenient  place ;  they  had  just 
effected  this,  when  at  one  bound  it  jumped  out  into 
the  river  and  disappeared.  The  Indians  looked  quite 
stupciicd,  and  never  afterward  could  be  persuaded  to 
touch  a  cayman." 

The  creek  of  Macanillal  is  also  famous  for  its  many 
water-dogs,  or  ^><';*;vv«  de  ar/ua  (Myopotamus  coypos) 
and  nutrias.  The  latter  is  a  large  species  of  otter 
with  a  fine  glossy  fur.  The  former  resembles  a 
beaver  very  closely,  but  has  a  round  tail  similar  to 
that  of  the  opossum.     Both  animals  live  in  the  water, 


1(;2  TKAVELS  AND  AU VENTURES. 

cominp;  out  (»ocft«ionally  to  sun  themselves  on  tho 
bqihI  hanks.  In  a  hut  near  the  scene  of  our  lui?t 
er(»ctKlile  adventure  1  saw  a  skin  of  the  water-do^' 
whicli  measured  live  feet  in  lenjrtli,  exehisive  of  the 
tail  ;  but  althou^rh  I  often  made  dilijrcnt  search  for 
thi.s  singular  aniphihiuus  animal,  I  never  had  an  o\>- 
jiortunity  of  makin;;:  his  ac<iuaintance.  Like  the 
otter  he  is  extremely  shy,  and  only  the  jiractised  eye 
of  an  Indian  can  trace  him  near  the  surface  of  tke 
water  when  he  rises  to  breathe. 


CILVPTER  XII. 

BIKDS   OF   ILL    OMEX   AND   CAKKION   HAWKS. 

The  distant  bellowing  of  bulls  assembling  tlieir 
herds — sure  sign  that  the  tiger  was  prowling  near 
them — lulled  us  pleasantly  to  sleep  in  our  hammock- 
beds  after  the  fatigues  and  labors  of  the  day.  IS'ot 
unfrequently  we  were  treated  to  a  serenading  chorus 
of  araguatos  or  howling  monkeys,  and  to  the  hootings 
of  the  titiriji  or  tiger-owl  of  the  pampas,  whose  pecu- 
liar cries  might  be  readily  mistaken,  by  an  imaccus- 
tomcd  ear,  for  the  angry  growl  of  that  spotted  bandit 
of  the  forest — the  jaguar.  The  neighboring  woods 
were  also  the  liaunts  of  several  other  species  of  owls 
and  goat-suckers,  whose  dreary  notes  wake  mournful 
echoes  by  night  and  till  superstitious  imaginations 
with  fearful  and  foreboding  visions. 

The  tiger-owl,  which  may  be  said  to  rank  among 
tlie  feathered  tribe  as  does  the  jaguar  or  American 
tiger  among  l^easts,  is  nearly  the  size  of  a  domestic 
turkey.  Like  liis  powerful  prototype,  he  is  spotted 
with  black,  and  seldom  makes  himself  heard  except- 


1C4  TKAVELS  A.VD  ADVENTURES. 

injj  nt  ni^'lit,  \\\wj\  t-allinp:  on  liis  iimto ;  or  durinjr  his 
iKH-tunuil  exjictlitioiJt;  in  the  mi^hburhuod  of  the 
fannvurd.  lie  is  then,  not  only  a  terror  to  the  de- 
fencele^js  hrood,  l>ut  also  to  the  youn«;er  inmates  of 
the  house,  who  look  ujton  him  with  a  kind  of  su]»er- 
stitious  awe,  on  which  account  he  sometimes  escapes 
]>unishment. 

Less  imposinir  in  size  than  the  precedinir — althoufrh 
more  terrifvin*;  in  their  way — are  the  ya-acal/t  and  the 
jHivita — two  other  species  of  owl  considered  harhin- 
jrers  of  calamity  or  death,  Mheii  heard  llulterinn; 
around  a  house.  The  first  j)ortends  an  approachinir 
death  amoni;  the  inmates,  and  is  therefore  looked 
upon  with  dread  even  l»y  men  who  would  not  tliiich 
at  the  si;;ht  of  the  most  formidable  bull  or  jaijuar. 
Yet  that  appalling:  cry,  i/a  acuho .'  ya  acafto  ! — it  is 
finished  !  it  is  finished  I — seems  so  fraught  with  evil 
mystery,  that  few  hear  it  unmoved.  The  only  e\]>o- 
dient  resorted  to,  in  such  ca^es,  is  to  form  a  cross  with 
hot  ashes  in  front  of  the  house,  which,  it  is  believed, 
will  drive  away  this  ill-omened  messenger.  Ihc  paviUi 
— although  not  lart;er  than  a  turtlc-(l<tve,  is  also  con- 
sidered pajaro  df  inal  agihro — a  bird  of  ill-omen — 
beinrj  no  less — they  say — than  the  dej»arted  spirit  of 
some  pood-natured  relative  come  to  warn  his  kindred 
against  apjmiacliini;  calamity.  In  these  case.*,  as  it  is 
belicveil  that  n«»thin|;  is  so  accejttable  to  the  ]>oor  soul 
as  a  few  Pater  Nosters  and  Ave  Marias,  they  usually 
try  to  disembarrass  themselves  of  the  unwelcome 
visitor  by  recitintr  aloud  several  of  these  prayers,  after 
crotisinp  themselves  twice  with  much  devotion.  When- 
ever this  owl's  dreaded  crv  is  heard,  it  is  certain  to 


BIRDS  OF  ILL  OMEN   AND   CARRION   HAWKS.         IQ^ 

be  lollowed  by  a  scene  of  <j;rcat  coninsion  and  dismay  : 
the  children  run  to  the  women  and  hide  behind  their 
skirts  ;  the  women  seek  j)roteetion  from  the  men  ; 
wliile  these  content  themselves  with  nnitterin^ij  the 
holy  invocation  Ave  Maria  Purishna!  which  is  ever 
with  them  the  favorite  talisman  against  danger. 

Great  varieties  of  goat-siickers — not  unlike  huge 
buttertiies  fluttering  in  the  light  evening  breeze — also 
make  their  appearance  at  sundown,  when  may  be 
lieard  their  singularly  harsh  notes  closely  resembling 
human  articulations. 

''The  harmless,  unoffending  goat-sucker,  from  the 
time  of  Aristotle  down  to  the  present  day  '' — says 
AVaterton  in  his  "  Wanderings  " — "  has  been  in  dis- 
grace with  man.  Father  has  handed  down  to  son, 
and  author  to  author,  that  this  nocturnal  thief  subsists 
by  milking  the  flocks.  Poor  injured  little  bird  of 
night !  how  sadly  hast  thou  suftered,  and  how  foul  a 
stain  has  inattention  to  facts  })ut  upon  thy  character ! 
Thou  hast  never  robbed  man  of  any  part  of  his  prop- 
erty, nor  deprived  the  kid  of  a  drop  of  milk." 

''  When  the  moon  shines  bright,  you  may  have  a 
fair  opportunity  of  examining  the  goat-sucker.  You 
will  see  it  close  by  the  cows,  goats,  and  sheep,  jump- 
ing up  every  now  and  then,  under  their  bellies.  Ap- 
proach a  little  nearer — he  is  not  shy,  'he  fears  no 
danger  for  he  knows  no  sin.'  See  how  the  nocturnal 
flies  are  tormenting  the  herd,  and  with  what  dexter- 
ity he  springs  up  and  catches  them  as  fast  as  they 
alight  on  the  belly,  legs  and  udder  of  the  animals. 
Observe  how  quiet  they  stand,  and  how  sensible  they 
seem  of  his  good  ottices,  for  they  neither  strike  at  him, 


166  TRAVELS   AND    AUVKNTURES. 

nor  liit  liiin  with  tlieir  tails,  nor  tread  on  liini,  nor  trv 
to  drivL'  liiiii  away  as  an  uncivil  intruder.  Were  you 
to  di>seet  him  and  insj)ect  his  stoniaeh,  you  would 
tind  iu>  milk  there.  It  is  lull  of  the  tlies  which  have 
been  annoyinir  the  herd. 

"The  prettily  mottleil  jilumage  ot"  the  poat-sucker, 
like  that  of  the  owl,  want.s  the  lustre  which  is  observ- 
e<l  in  the  feathers  of  the  birds  of  day.  This,  at  once, 
marks  him  as  a  lover  of  the  ]>alc  moon's  nij^htly  beams. 
There  are  nine  species  here"  (in  Demerara).  "The 
lar<j:est  appears  nearly  the  size  of  the  English  woo<i- 
owl.  Its  cry  is  so  remarkable,  that  having  once  heard 
it,  you  will  never  forget  it.  "When  night  reigns  over 
these  immeasuraide  wilds,  whilst  lying  in  your  ham- 
mock, you  will  hear  this  goat-sucker  lamenting  like 
one  in  deei>  distress.  A  stranger  would  never  con- 
ceive it  to  be  the  cry  of  a  bird.  He  would  say  it  was 
the  departing  voice  of  a  midnight  munlered  victim, 
or  the  last  wailing  of  Niobe  for  her  poor  children,  be- 
fore she  was  turned  into  stone.  Suppose  yourself  in 
lu^peless  sorrow,  begin  with  a  high  loud  note,  and  pro- 
nounce, '  ha,  ha,  ha,  ha,  ha,  ha,  ha,'  each  note  U»wir 
and  lower,  till  the  last  is  scarcely  heard,  pausing  a 
nutment  or  two  betwixt  every  note,  and  you  will  have 
some  itlea  of  the  moaning  of  the  largest  goat-sucker  in 
Demerara. 

"  Four  other  spc<'ies  of  the  goat-sucker  articulate 
some  words  so  distinctly,  that  they  have  received  their 
names  from  the  sentences  they  utter,  and  absolutely 
bewilder  the  stranger  on  his  arrival  at  these  jiarts. 
The  most  common  one  sits  down  close  by  your  do«r, 
and  flies  and  alights  three  or  four  yards  before  you,  as 


BIRDS  OF  ILL  OMEN  AND  CARRION   HAWKS.         IQ'J 

you  walk  along  tlio  road,  ci-ying,  '  Who  are  you,  who, 
who,  who  are  you  i '  Another  bids  you,  '  Work  away, 
work,  work,  work  away.'  A  third  cries  mournfully, 
'  Willy,  come  go,  Willy,  Willy,  Willy  come  go.'  And 
higii  up  the  country  a  fourth  tells  you  '  Whip  poor 
"Will,  wliip,  M'hip,  whip  poor  AVill.' '' * 

There  is  a  bird,  however,  among  these  nocturnal 
serenaders  which  impresses  you  with  very  ditierent 
feelings  from  those  produced  by  the  owl  species  :  this 
is  the  GalUneta  de  monte  or  forest-hen,  a  most  beau- 
tiful creature  both  in  color  and  in  shape,  and  not  un- 
like a  water-hen  in  general  appearance :  the  eyes 
especially  are  peculiarly  pretty,  being  of  a  brilliant 
ruby  color  and  scintillate  like  fire.  These  birds  sing 
in  concert,  and  their  song — a  lively  chatter — has  a 
mystic  fascination  I  am  unable  to  describe.  They 
are  also  considered  delicate  eating;  but  unfortunately 
are  very  difficult  to  catch,  for  even  after  being  shot, 
imless  wounded  in  the  leg,  they  can  outstrip  the  swift- 
est hound,  although  their  wings,  being  very  small, 
avail  them  little.  !Nature,  however,  has  provided 
them  with  long  yellow  legs  for  the  purpose. 

Tlie  ponds  and  lagoons  of  the  savannas  are  literally 
crowded  with  other  individuals  of  the  feathered  tribe, 
whose  lively  notes  and  incessant  chatterings  contribute 
likewise  to  enliven  the  night.  The  most  conspicuous 
among  them  are  various  sjiecies  of  teal-ducks,  such  as 
gliires  ixuiX  i/af/uasos,  and  along-legged  plover — alcnr- 
ai\rn. — This  last  has  the  ])eculiarity  of  uttering  a  long, 
shrill  sound  at  hourly  intervals,  thus  marking  every 

•  Wandcriugs  in  South  ^\jut'rica. 


KJS  TUAVEI-S   AND  ADVENTURES. 

\unir  of  tilt'  iii^'ht  after  tho  manner  of  a  cloek's  alannn. 
It  is  easily  donje.stieale*!  in  the  liouseii.  where  it  n-n- 
dcrs  some  service,  not  only  l»y  marking  time,  but  uUo 
by  «fi\  in£j  waniing  of  the  ajiproaeli  of  btranj^ers. 

The  aruco  is  anotiier  bird  of  large  size,  wliosc 
lirum-like  note.s  are  often  heard  in  the  i^tillness  of 
night.  In  size  and  plumage  it  greatly  resemble.s  a 
turkey  ;  but  its  llesh  i.s  ho  sj)ongy,  that  in  lifting  one 
of  these  uncouth  birds  from  the  ground,  it  appears  like 
a  mere  bundle  of  feathers.  The  wings  of  the  male  are 
j>r(>vided  with  a  pair  of  sharj)  spurs,  with  which,  when 
lighting,  they  greatly  injure  one  another. 

Another  feature  of  the  cattle-farm  is  the  great  num- 
ber of  carrion  vultures  and  other  birds  of  prey  con- 
stantly hovering  around  the  houses  and  corrals,  attract- 
ed thither  by  the  carca.s.-es  of  dead  animals.  Tlie  most 
conspicuous  among  them  is  the  zauniro  or  ^allina^o, 
(Cathartes  Atratus.)  that  constant  comi>anion  of  rude 
civilization  in  all  tropical  countries,  but  an  indolent, 
grecily  and  disgusting  associate.  As,  however,  they  oc- 
casionally render  service  in  the  caj>acity  of  scavengers, 
they  are  generally  tolerated  among  the  fowl  of  the  farm- 
yard. It  is  a  gregarious  bird,  and  collects  in  large 
llixks  on  the  roof  and  fences,  where,  with  knowing 
glances,  they  seem  to  be  scanning  all  the  actions  of 
the  imnates.  I  often  amuse<l  myself  in  threatening 
them  with  a  missile  of  some  sort  ;  but  they  never  ap- 
peared to  notice  it,  until  they  j»erceived  me  to  be  in 
eaniest :  then  with  wings  half  sj)reiul  and  leaning  ft^r- 
ward,  they  watched  intently  the  moment  when  I  should 
hurl  it  at  them  to  evade  it  by  flight  or  a  do<lge  of  the 
head. — ^Thev  build  their  ne.^ts  in  lioles  which  thevdi-' 


BIRDS   OF    ILL   OMKN    AM)   CARinON    HAWKS.  J^jjj 

ill  tlic  ground.  Their  voimg  arc  ^vllite,  gradually 
changing  to  black  as  they  grow  older,  and  only  two 
are  raised  by  tiie  parent  every  year.  Although  essen- 
tially carrion  ieeders,  the  olfactories  of  these  birds  are 
not  so  sensitive  as  to  discover  for  them  a  dead  aninuil 
— as  many  suppose ; — but  their  sight  is  very  good. 
Thoy  lly  to  immense  heights,  and  thence  examine  every 
portion  of  the  ground  below  them.  In  doing  this  they 
may  often  be  observed  on  motionless  wing,  Avhirling 
round  and  round  in  graceful  evolutions. 

AVith  the  zanvuro  is  often  associated  anotlicr  carrion 
vulture,  the  or/pojw  or  turkey-buzzard,  (Vultur  aura,) 
of  the  same  size  and  with  similar  habits  to  the  former. 
It  differs  however,  from  its  relative  in  color — which  is 
dark  brown — and  in  having  its  neck  more  destitute  of 
feathers.  It  is  also  more  elegant  in  form  and  in  its 
graceful  evolutions  through  the  air  than  the  black 
vulture.  The  turkey -buzzard  has  a  wide  geographical 
range,  having  been  met  by  Audubon  as  far  north  as 
Pennsylvania,  and  by  Darwin  in  the  arid  plains  of 
Patagonia  and  Tierra  del  Fucgo.  "When  soaring 
through  the  upper  regions  of  the  air,  it  can  be  at  once 
recognized  by  its  long,  sweeping  flight,  accompanied 
by  a  buzzing  sound,  much  like  the  gust  of  the  whirl- 
wind, and  perfectly  audible  froni  a  great  distance. 

The  Ri'ii-Zamui'o^  or  king  of  the  vultures,  (Vultur 
papa,)  larger  than  the  foregoing,  is  the  most  beautiful 
of  its  kind.  Its  j>lumagc,  resembling  down  in  softness 
and  lineness,  is  of  a  pearly  white,  excepting  the  wings, 
which  are  tipped  with  black.  The  breast  and  neck, 
although  entirely  bare  of  feathers,  are  decked  in  the 
most  brilliant  tint  of  blue,  orange,  and  red,  while  a  sort 


170  TUAVKUS  AND  ADVENTURES. 

of  nirin]»r:motis  excrescence  crowns  the  liend,  frivini; 
it  :i  truly  rnval  ai>i>earanee, 

Tliis  Kin<^  <tf  the  vultures  lias  also  very  nristooratic 
haliits,  never  associating  with  any,  not  even  those  of 
his  own  tribe.  It  is  a  remarkable  fact  that  when  he 
alights  upon  a  carcass,  amidst  a  flock  of  other  vultures, 
all  these  last  retire,  or  make  a  circle  round  the  baii- 
<juet.  When  his  majesty  has  dined,  he  flies  olf,  utter- 
ing a  loud  cry,  and  only  then  his  subjects  venture  to 
aj>j»roach  the  carrion. 

Tliere  is  in  the  more  elevate«l  jiart  of  the  adjoining 
jirovince  of  I'arinas,  another  bird  of  the  same  class — 
Vultur  barbatus — which  partakers  of  the  eagle  an«l  the 
vulture,  l>ut  is  larger  than  either.  It  is  called  in  con 
eeijuence  gavilucho — eagle-hawk — and  has  been  seui 
at  times  descending  toward  the  plains.  Tlic  legs  and 
wings  arc  very  long  and  i>owerful.  It  is  said  to  la 
very  handsome,  but  it  is  extremely  shy  of  man.  TIk 
plumage  is  bluish,  red,  white  and  yellow.  Thi- 
bird  joins  to  the  boldness  and  cruelty  of  the  eagle,  tiic 
loathsome  voracity  of  the  vultures.  It  prefers  liv<' 
flesh,  es])ecially  that  of  rinall  quadrupeds,  and  prey- 
principally  upon  rabbits,  goats,  sheep  and  even  vouhl' 
calves.  It  raises  only  one  })rf»o<l  in  a  season,  aii<i 
builds  its  nest  amid>t  the  nj(».-t  inaci-e.-sible  ledges  of 
the  Cordilleras. 

I  will  close  the  list  of  the  carrion  birds  of  Vene- 
zuela with  enumerating  two  others,  nearly  allied  to 
the  hawk,  but  ]>artaking  also  of  the  characteristieR  of 
the  eagle.  These  are  the  carirari  and  rhir'tjuare 
(Polyborus  Brasiliensis  and  P.  Chiinango)  correspond- 
in::   to   the  caracaras  and  carrancha  of  I3nizil   and 


BIRDS   OF   ILL   OMEN   AND   CAliUION    HAWKS.         ^^^ 

Buenos  Ayres,  conceniinir  Avliicli  Darwin  has  given 
tl:is  iri'apliie  account: 

*•  The  ciwacujiis  are  from  their  structure  placed 
among  the  eagles  :  we  shall  soon  sec  how  ill  they  be- 
come so  high  a  rank.  In  their  habits  they  will  supply 
the  place  of  our  carrion  crows,  magpies  and  ravens,  a 
tribe  of  birds  widely  distributed  over  the  rest  of  the 
world,  but  entirely  absent  in  South  America. 

'*  The  carranchas,  together  with  the  chimango, 
constantly  attend  in  numbers  the  estancias  and 
slaughtering-houses.  If  an  animal  dies  on  the  plain, 
the  gallinazo  commences  the  feast,  and  then  the  two 
species  of  Polyborus  ])iclv  the  bones  clean.  These 
birds,  although  thus  commonly  feeding  together,  are 
far  from  being  friendly.  When  the  carrancha  is 
quietly  seated  on  the  branch  of  a  tree  or  on  the 
ground,  the  chimango  often  continues  for  a  long  time 
flying  backward  and  forward,  up  and  down,  in  a 
semicircle,  trying  each  time  at  the  bottom  of  the 
curve  to  strike  its  larger  relative.  Although  the 
carranchas  frequently  assemble  in  numbers,  they  are 
not  gregarious  ;  for  in  desert  places  they  may  be  seen 
solitary,  or  more  commonly  in  pairs. 

"  The  carranchas  are  said  to  be  very  crafty,  and 
to  steal  great  numbers  of  eggs.  Tliey  attempt,  also, 
together  with  the  chimango,  to  pick  off  the  scabs 
from  the  sore  backs  of  horses  and  mules.  The  poor 
[inimal,  on  the  one  hand,  with  its  ears  down  and  its 
back  arched,  and,  on  the  other  hand,  the  hovering 
bird,  eyeing  at  the  distance  of  a  yard  the  disgusting 
morsel,  form  a  picture,  which  has  been  described  by 
Captain  Head  with  his  own  peculiar  spirit  and  ac- 


172  TUAVKLS  AND  ADVENTURES. 

curacy.  TIjcsc  fiiUc  capjlcs  rarely  kill  any  liviii<;  Itird 
or  aiiiinal  ;  an.l  their  vulnire-likc,  m'c-roi»lia^ous 
lml»its  arc  very  evident  to  any  ono  who  has  fallen 
luslcep  on  the  desolate  jilains  of  Patagonia,  for  when 
he  wakes  ho  will  sec,  on  each  surrounding  hillock, 
one  of  these  birds  patiently  watching  liini  with  an 
evil  eye ;  it  is  a  feature  in  the  landscape  of  these 
countries,  which  will  be  recognized  by  everyone  who 
Inis  wanderetl  over  them.  If  a  i»arty  of  men  go  out 
hunting  with  dogs  and  horses,  they  will  be  accom- 
panied during  the  day  by  several  of  these  attendants. 
Alter  feeding,  the  uncovered  craw  protrudes ;  at 
Buch  tiujcs,  and  indeed,  generally,  the  carrancha  is  an 
inactive,  tame,  and  eowardly  bird.  Its  flight  is  heavy 
and  slow,  like  that  of  an  English  rook.  It  seldom  soars ; 
but  I  have  twice  seen  one  at  a  great  height  gliding 
through  the  air  with  great  ease.  It  runs,  (in  contra- 
distinction to  hopping,)  but  not  quite  so  quickly  a- 
some  of  its  congeners.  At  times  the  carrancha  is 
noisy,  but  is  nc»t  generally  so ;  its  cry  is  loud,  very 
harsh  and  ])cculiar.  and  may  be  likened  to  the  sound 
of  the  Spani.-h  guttural  y.  tollowed  by  a  rough  double 
r  r\  when  uttering  this  cry,  it  elevates  its  head  higlur 
and  higher,  till  at  last,  with  its  beak  wide  open,  tin- 
crown  almost  touches  the  lower  j»art  of  the  he;i<l. 
This  fact,  which  has  been  doubted,  is  quite  true." 

Tliese  birds  arc,  however,  a  great  blessing  to  the 
inhabitants  <»f  the  Llanos,  who  are  indebted  to  them. 
not  only  for  the  destruction  of  vast  numbers  of  snak(  s 
and  other  reptiles,  but  for  the  service  they  ren<l<  r 
conjointly  with  the  vultures  in  consuming  the  oli:il 
near  houses.     Tliev  seek  their  food  both  in  drv  lan<l^ 


BIRDS  OF  ILL  OMEN  AND  CARRION   HAWKS.        173 

and  nniidst  the  swjunpy  borders  of  rivers  ;  011  tlic  one 
they  lind  serpents  and  lizards  in  abundance ;  in  the 
other  terrajnns,  frogs  and  small  crocodiles.  They 
are  })eculiar  in  always  killing  their  prey  before  com- 
mencing to  devour  it.  If  the  caricarl  meet  with  a 
serj^cnt  or  young  crocodile  large  enough  to  oppose  a 
long  resistance,  he  ai)proaclies  it  sideways,  shielded 
by  one  of  his  wings  spread  out,  and  striking  his  prey 
near  the  head  with  his  bill,  retires  to  a  short  distance 
to  watch  the  result.  A  second  blow  is  usually  fatal, 
upon  which,  seizing  his  victim  in  his  claws,  he  tears 
it  with  his  bill.  The  sluggish  tortoises  and  terrapins 
are  easy  prey  for  the  cancan  /  these  he  renders  help- 
less by  turning  them  upon  their  backs,  then  with  his 
powerful  bill  tears  out  the  entrails. 

Singing  birds  are  of  great  numbers  and  varieties 
in  the  Llanos  ;  these  are  mostly  of  the  oriole  species, 
all  of  which  seem  to  delight  in  the  vicinity  of  man. 
They  usually  select  some  tree  near  the  house,  and 
from  its  slender  topmost  branches,  weave  their  hang- 
ing nests  beyond  reach  of  mischievous  boys  and  mon- 
keys. One  of  these  songsters,  the  gonzal^  had  his 
nest  close  by  the  ropes  of  my  hammock,  where  every 
morning  before  sunrise  he  awakened  me  by  his  sweetly 
plaintive  notes ;  and  so  fascinated  was  I  by  this  charm- 
ing neighbor,  that  I  always  remained  long  after  the 
reveille,  listening  to  his  delicious  music. 

There  is  another  closely  allied  species,  far  superior 
to  this  or  any  other  bird  of  the  kind  with  which  I  am 
ac(puiinted.  It  is  the  troupial,  whose  powerful  notes 
can  only  be  likened  to  strains  of  the  violin.  It  is 
easily  domesticated  in  houses,  and  Icarus  readily  any 


174  TRAVKi-s   AMI   AIAENTCRES. 

air  from  iKariiijr  it  whistlfd.  I  have  oiir  ^-i  im>«.- 
biril-s  at  homo  (in  New  York)  wliich  tings  the  Ca- 
chiica,  Yankee  DoocUe,  and  varions  other  tunes,  be- 
sides (lijjtinetly  >\hif-tlin<;  the  name  of  a  person.  Its 
jirechiminant  eolors  are  rieli  oranjire  and  sliinin^  blaek, 
with  white  8j)0ts  on  the  win^s  and  bill  in  beautiful 
eontra>t.  It  is  a  dangerous  pet,  liowever,  if  at  larL'<- 
in  a  house,  attacking  strangers  furious) v,  and  alw:iv> 
aiming  at  the  eyes. 

The  (trrendajOy  or  niocking-oriole,  'is  j)erhaps  the 
most  extraordinary  of  its  kind,  on  aceount  of  its  imi- 
tative proclivities,  mimicking  every  sound  with  such 
exactness,  that  he  goes  l>y  the  name  of  nKK-king-birtl 
among  the  colonists  of  Demerara  ;  according  to 
AVatcrton,  "  His  own  st^ng  is  sweet,  but  very  short. 
If  a  toucan  be  yelping  in  the  neighborhood,  he  drops 
it,  and  imitates  him.  Then  he  will  amuse  his  ]iro- 
tector  with  the  cries  of  tlic  diflerent  8j>ecies  of  wooc!- 
])eckcr,  and  when  the  sheep  bleat  he  will  distinct !y 
answer  them.  Then  comes  his  own  song  again  ;  and 
if  a  l)uppy  dog  or  a  guinea  fowl  intcrrujit  him,  he 
takes  them  oft'  admirably,  and  by  his  diflerent  ges- 
tures during  the  time,  you  would  conclude  that  he 
enjoys  the  sj)ort." 

The  arrciidajo  is,  besides,  a  beautiful  bird,  and 
<M)nsidered  by  ornithologists  a  model  of  symmetry  ; 
his  prcdonunant  color  is  a  glossy  black,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  his  belly,  rump  and  half  the  tail,  wliich 
arc  of  a  bright  yellow.  On  eacli  wing  also  he  has  a 
spot  of  the  &ame  color.  His  beak  is  tinged  of  a  deli- 
cate shade  of  lemon,  while  his  eyes  are  sky  blue,  thi 
l>uj»il  being  a  deeper  sh.ide  of  the  same. 


CHAPTER  XIIL 

THE    KODEO. 

AVe  lir.  I  long  been  impatiently  awaiting  the  com- 
mand for  a  general  turnout  and  chase  among  the 
legions  of  "vvild  cattle  grazing  in  the  far  horizon  ;  and 
when  at  length  the  day  was  appointed  for  a  rodeo  or 
grand  hunt,  the  universal  gratification  was  boundless. 

It  is  customary  in  all  large  cattle  farms  to  assem- 
ble from  time  to  time  the  cattle  of  certain  districts  for 
the  purpose  of  selecting  those  whicli  require  branding 
and  marking,  and  also  to  allow  the  neighboring  farm- 
ers to  separate  from  the  herds  many  stray  animals 
belonging  to  them,  which,  from  the  open  nature  of 
the  plains,  it  is  impossible  to  keep  within  the  boini- 
daries  of  their  own  savannas.  This  operation  cannot 
be  accomplished  without  a  great  number  of  able  and 
expert  riders,  who,  on  a  given  day,  surround  a  large 
area  of  country  and  drive  toward  one  centre  all  the 
cattle  that  may  be  found  within  the  selected  space. 
An  extended  circle  or  ring  is  thus  formed,  enclosing 
a  great  horde  of  wild  animals ;  these  are  kept  in  check 


17«;  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES. 

by  the  Mtll-cotu'crted  evolutions  of  the  vaqueros  iiHtil 
the  a)»|n»intfd  reiiciczvouu  is  ivuc-lifd,  wliore,  ufti  r 
nlluwin;;  tlie  cattle  to  cool  down,  the  diliercnt  brands 
arc  ticlected  ;  hence  the  name  <»f  nnho^  from  nnhar, 
to  tjurround. 

The  object  on  this  occasion  was  not  only  to  popa- 
rate  all  the  calves  that  required  branding;,  but  also  t«i 
collect  a  lar^e  drove  of  oxen,  so  as  to  furnish  our  ex- 
tensive potrcros  of  San  Pablo  de  Paya  with  market- 
able beeves. 

Our  first  foray  a^^ainst  the  lionied  tenants  <tf  tin- 
wilderness  would  thus  assume  an  imjK»rtancc  seldom 
witnessed  in  that  retired  corner  of  the  republic  ;  as 
also  in  addition  to  our  own  force,  we  counted  u]»on 
tiie  assistance  of  the  vaqueros  from  the  neiirhborini^ 
cattle  farms  of  Caucagua,  La  Vasrua,  and  others  bor- 
dering these  savannas.  Due  notice  was  accordingly 
sent  to  the  respective  owners  of  those  estates  to  mus- 
ter on  a  certain  day  all  their  forces  upon  the  field. 

Tlie  area  selected  for  the  hunt  embraced  at  least 
fifteen  miles  a  la  rondi\  Tlie  hunters,  in  squads  of 
six  or  eight,  proceeded  on  the  afternoon  of  the  day 
before  the  hunt  to  their  stations  at  various  points  of 
the  savanna,  having  instructions  to  start  at  early 
dawn  for  the  a])i>ointcd  centre.  "NVe  of  the  staff  made 
a  simultaneous  move  frt»m  the  house,  driving  before 
us,  without  distinction,  all  the  animals  we  encoun- 
tered on  the  route.  Tlic  cattle  being  so  unexpectedly 
roused  from  their  slumbers,  naturally  endeavored  to 
fly  from  their  pursuers.  Soon,  however,  meeting' 
those  from  op|iosite  directions,  they  whirled  in  mal 
despair,  vainly  endeavoring  to  break  through  the  ex- 


THE  RODKO.  177 

tended  line  of  horsemen,  who  were  constantly  gallop- 
ing ahont  tlie  struggling  mass  with  shouts  and  thrusts 
from  their  steel-pointed  garrochas. 

At  tlie  commencement  it  was  a  truly  interesting 
sight  to  watch  the  many  grouj^s  of  cattle,  deer,  wild 
boars,  dogs,  foxes,  and  other  wild  quadrupeds  coming 
in  from  all  directions  as  if  impelled  by  one  common 
instinct ;  but  no  sooner  did  that  living  ring  commence 
closing  upon  them,  than,  scared  by  the  confusion  and 
uproar  of  the  scene,  their  terror  quickly  grew  to 
frenzy,  and  they  ran  from  side  to  side  bellowing, 
grunting,  howling  as  they  went.  Solely  intent  upon 
the  danger  that  menaced  them,  the  mother  forgot  her 
ofi'spring,  and  listened  no  more  to  their  painful  lamen- 
tations ;  the  lover  abandoned  his  beloved,  seeking 
only  his  own  safety  in  disgraceful  flight ;  and  even  the 
fierce  bull,  forgetting  for  a  moment  that  he  is  sover- 
eign of  those  realms,  lost  his  natural  spirit  of  brave 
defiance,  and  rushed  blindly  ofl:'  in  the  train  of  the 
frightened  multitude.  As  if  to  increase  the  grandeur 
of  the  spectacle,  a  garzcro,  which  had  established 
itself  on  the  borders  of  a  creek  hard  by,  also  caught 
the  alarm,  and  at  our  approach  flew  up  in  the  air 
with  a  tremendous  crashing  of  wing  and  bill,  leaving 
their  young  to  care  for  themselves,  and  with  their 
discordant  and  piercing  cries  to  swell  the  nproar  of 
the  scene.  It  is  impossible  to  convey  an  adequate 
idea  of  this  vast  multitude  of  frightened  cranes  and 
herons  of  all  sorts  which  fluttered  overhead  at  that 
moment  ;  so  great  was  their  number  that  they  spread 
over  an  extent  of  several  miles,  and  actually  for  a 
time  cast  a  deep  shadow  over  the  landscape. 

8* 


178  TRAVELS  AND  AUVENTLRES. 

Not  less  than  eight  or  ten  thousand  head  of  cattle 
were  broiif^ht  within  the  rin<i:  formed  of  more  than  a 
lujiulreil  horsemen,  who,  in  preventing  the  eseupe  of 
the  animals,  were  compelled  to  ex|>o8e  themselves  and 
their  noble  steeds  to  the  vlndietiveness  of  the  bulls, 
wliich  were  ctmstantly  ru>hiiig  ujum  the  lines  in  their 
endeavors  to  reirain  the  ojten  prairie.  Whenever  tliis 
was  attempted,  a  horseman  gallopod  boldly  upon  llie 
ftjgitive,  and  by  interposing  himself  between  the  open 
lield  and  the  bull,  foreed  the  latter  back  to  the  herd. 
AVonderfnlly  adroit  were  the  henlsmen  in  their  avoid- 
ance of  the  repeated  strokes  aimed  at  them  by  the 
bulls,  even  when  it  appeared  impossible  to  escajK- 
being  caught  between  the  animaPs  horns.  The  gnr- 
rocfui  jtlayed  an  important  ]»art  in  repelling  these  at- 
tacks. This  instrument,  only  second  in  importance 
to  the  lazo  when  in  the  hands  of  exjK-rt  ri<lers,  is 
made  of  the  slender,  yet  tough  stem,  of  the  itlvarir,, 
j)alm,  (aMiocarpus  eubarro,)  by  merely  sharpening  the 
toj)  end  to  a  point,  or  surmounting  it  with  an  iron 
head,  amund  which  a  number  of  loose  rings  of  the 
same  metal  are  aflixcd  ;  these,  when  shaken  cIum 
to  the  animal's  ear,  frighten  him  oti'with  the  rattlirii: 
sound  they  jiroducc.  The  shaft  t»f  the  goad  is  fullv 
ten  feet  long,  and  although  not  thicker  than  a  walk 
ing-stick,  can  bear  an  immense  amount  of  jiressur-- 
witlictut  breaking.  As  a  weapon  of  aggression,  thi< 
slender  palm  stem  has  become  justly  celebrated 
throughout  the  c«)untry,  from  the  fact  of  having  sup- 
plied the  primitive  bands  of  patriots  who  first  dare<l 
to  opj)ose  the  tyrannical  rule  of  Spain  with  n-ady- 
made  lances  in  the  wilderness.    The  manner  in  which 


THE  UODEO.  179 

Lliuieros  make  use  of  tlie  ^arrocha  is  <jiiite  extra- 
ordinary. When  in  jnirsuit  of  a  bull  wliieh  they  pur- 
pose turniiii]^  back  to  the  rodeo,  if  the  animal  be 
swifter  than  the  horse,  the  rider  always  manages  to 
reach  him  with  the  point  of  his  spear.  This  he 
thrusts  iiitu  (lie  ]»i!irs  hide,  just  above  the  shoulder- 
l)Iade,  and  then  leans  forward  and  rests  the  Avliole 
Mt'i<j;ht  of  his  body  upon  the  shaft,  assisted  in  it  by 
his  intellii]::ent  charger.  The  equilibrium  of  the  bull 
is  thus  usually  destroyed,  and  he  rolls  headlong  upon 
the  ground.  These  falls  are  often  sufficient  to  pre- 
vent turther  attempts  at  escape,  in  which  case  the 
bull  is  easily  led  into  the  rodeo.  This  performance, 
however,  is  one  of  the  most  dangerous  practised 
among  Llaneros,  and  is  undertaken  only  by  the  most 
skilful  and  experienced  riders,  as,  should  the  spear 
glance  oiT  -while  the  hunter  is  leaning  upon  it,  or 
should  he  happen  to  overturn  the  bull  in  front  of  his 
horse,  he  will  in  either  case  receive  a  terrific  fall,  and 
in  the  latter  event,  probably  come  into  collision  with 
tlie  fallen  animal. 

From  the  midst,  and  above  all  the  heads  of  that 
tumultuous  assemblage  of  wild  animals,  rose  the 
shaggy  frontlet  of  a  black  bull,  whose  martial  air  and 
fearless  step  seemed  to  proclaim  him  the  patriarch  of 
the  herd.  An  experienced  Llanero,  intently  watching 
all  his  movements  from  afar,  observed  to  those  near 
him,  that  they  would  soon  have  fresh  sport ;  and  that 
''  if  any  one  prized  the  skin  of  his  horse,  he  would  do 
well  to  look  to  his  spurs ;  "  meaning  that  the  black 
bull  evidently  intended  mischief.  Mr.  Thomas,  who 
was  busily  sketching  the  novel  scene  before  him,  un- 


180  TRAYKLS  AND  ADVENTURES. 

accuKtomcd  to  tlic  jargon  of  the  Llanos,  did  ndt  un- 
derstand this  remark,  and  tlierefore  <iuietly  continuetl 
his  occ-njiation.  The  next  moment  the  bull  was  in 
our  midst,  eharging  first  uj>on  Cai>tuin  A'alor,  one  of 
the  best  riders  on  the  field,  who,  in  hjtite  of  his  name, 
hastily  spurred  his  steed  out  of  reach  ;  but  the  bull 
htill  j>ui'suinfr,  charged  again  and  again  upon  him, 
and  doubtless  the  lajft  attenij)t  would  have  bern  futul 
to  either  horse  or  eavalier,  had  not  the  bull  been 
cheeked  in  his  final  onset  by  accidentally  ]>lunging 
one  of  his  legs  into  the  hole  of  an  armadillo,  which 
fortunate  circumstance  gave  the  eaj»tain  time  to  dit^- 
tance  his  pursuer.  The  bull  next  bought  to  vent  liis 
rage  on  the  incautious  artist,  who,  one  leg  crossed 
over  the  neck  of  his  horse  as  support  for  his  sketch- 
book, sat  evidently  absorbed  in  eontemjdation  of  the 
powerful  and  daring  brute,  with  mIiosc  fcrociou.>j 
nature  he  was  totally  unacquainted.  Having  never 
before  attended  s]»orts  of  the  kind,  my  friend  paid 
little  regard  to  the  menacing  attitude  of  the  animal, 
who  rushed  upon  him  with  a  fearful  bellow  that  made 
us  tremble  for  liis  fate.  But  for  some  unaccountable 
reason,  the  bull  after  one  or  two  ineflectual  attemjtts 
to  strike  his  intended  victim,  wheeled  about  and  dis- 
a])i)eared  among  the  tangled  jungle  bordering  the 
creek,  apparently  indignant  at  the  nonchalance  with 
which  John  J>ull  received  the  advances  of  hi.s  name- 
hake.  I'earing  the  recurrence  of  similar  attacks, 
which  might  have  a  less  fortunate  termination,  it  was 
decided  to  disembarra-'^s  ourselves  of  so  uncomfort- 
able a  neighbor ;  with  this  object,  the  requisite  numbir 
of  horsemen  provided  with  lazos  were  tent  to  eaj'ture 


THE  ROOEO.  181 

and  subdue  liiin.  Instead  of  seeking  safety  in  precip- 
itate flight,  as  is  generally  the  case  -with  wild  bulls, 
this  one  unflinchingly  stood  his  ground,  and  neither 
shouts  nor  menaces  could  induce  him  to  abandon  the 
threatening  attitude  he  had  assumed.  It  was  indeed 
a  splendid  sight  to  behold  that  proud  monarch  of  the 
horned  tribe  bidding  deflance  to  all  about  him,  his 
liuge  and  shaggy  head,  surmounted  by  a  pair  of 
pointed,  powerful  horns,  high  in  air,  and  with  an  ex- 
pression of  countenance  that  was  almost  diabolical. 
His  savage  upper  lip  looked  as  if  curled  in  contempt 
of  his  antagonists,  and  his  eyes  gleamed  with  fury  in 
the  light  of  the  morning  sun.  Occasionally  with  his 
fore  feet  he  ploughed  up  the  earth,  whicli,  falling  in 
showers  upon  him,  he  swept  from  his  sides  with  his 
tail,  uttering  all  the  while  a  sort  of  suppressed  roar 
resembling  distant  thunder.  Then  came  the  furious 
charge,  when  every  one  was  compelled  to  run  for  his 
life,  as  nothing  could  arrest  his  headlong  course. 
Blinded  with  rage,  he  spared  not  even  those  of  his 
own  species,  killing  two  heifers  instantly,  and  wound- 
ing a  bull  so  severely  that  he  died  shortly  after- 
ward. Each  time  the  men  whirled  the  lazo  to 
throw  it  over  his  head,  he  dashed  forward  with  such 
rapidity  as  to  disconcert  their  aim,  until,  finally,  a 
bold  and  agile  sambo,  Sarmiento  by  name,  who  acted 
as  caj^oral,  and  of  whom  we  shall  say  more  hereafter, 
dismounling  from  his  horse  and  seizing  the  red  blan- 
ket from  his  saddle,- prepared  to  face  the  bull  without 
the  encumbrance  of  the  lazo.  His  intention  was  to 
bewilder  or  torcar  him  by  a  succession  of  such  feats 
of  agility  as  arc  usually  practised  by  matadors  in  bull 


1S2  TU.WhLS   A.NU   Al>Vi.MLi;L.S. 

figlits ;  iiiul  60  Piu-ceiNsful  was  he,  tliat  in  one  of  the 
tuiiiiiurs  t'uiious  ehargei»,  he  Bucceeded  in  gra>j)ing 
and  huMiiig  his  tail  ;  and  in  hj)ito  of  the  elfortij  the 
bull  made  to  etrike  him  with  his  horns,  Sanniento 
followt'<l  his  movements  so  elosely,  that  hy  a  dexter- 
ous twist  of  the  tail  he  sueeeeded  in  overthrowing  the 
hrutf  ui»<>n  his  sitle  ;  he  then  drew  the  tail  hetween 
the  hind  legs,  and  as  this  eonjpletely  dej)rives  the 
animal  of  all  power  of  rising,  he  was  enabled  to  hold 
him  until  others  came  to  his  assistanee.  Then,  to 
I>revent  further  mischief,  the  men  ]»roceeded  to  saw 
ofi'  the  tops  of  his  horns  and  to  perform  upon  him 
other  usual  operations.  Tliese  ])recautions,  however, 
proved  quite  unnecessary,  as  the  bull,  exhausted  by 
rage  and  loss  of  blood,  shortly  afterward  dropped 
upon  the  ground  and  expired. 

In  s]>ite  of  the  vigilance  and  constant  efforts  of  the 
men  to  keep  tlic  animals  within  the  rtxho,  several 
other  bulls  managed  to  break  through  the  ranks.  The 
only  method  of  bringing  them  back  was  by  using 
^le  all-]>otent  lazo,  and  two  men,  one  of  them  thus 
e<piip])ed,  Mere  despatched  after  the  fugitive,  which 
on  l)eing  noosed,  was  by  the  second  man  speedily 
thrown  uj>on  his  side  by  means  of  that  dangerous  ap- 
pendage, the  tail,  in  the  management  of  which  the 
Llaneros  of  Venezuela  are  so  famous.  Tliis  accom- 
plished, they  pierced  the  thick  cartilage  which  divides 
the  nostrils  with  the  ]>oint  of  a  dagirer ;  one  end  of 
the  thong  was  then  passed  through  the  wound,  while 
the  other  remained  fastened  to  the  horse's  tail  ;  the 
Llanero,  then  m«»unting  his  steed,  jerked  the  end  at- 
tached to  the  bull,  which  brought  the  prostrate  beiist 


THE   RODEO.  -[33 

at  once  to  his  feet,  -wlien  he  was  marched  off  to  liis 
destination  -without  further  trouble,  literally  led  by 
the  nose. 

AuothiT  method  of  arrestini]^  a  bull  in  liis  ilii^ht, 
is  by  a  buhl  mananivre  termed  coh'ar,  and  which  con- 
sists, as  already  stated,  in  avail inp;  themselves  of  the 
aiiiniars  tail  to  overthrow  him  when  at  full  speed  ; 
Imt  that  is  not  easy  of  accomplishment,  as  the  bull 
lias  then  such  entire  freedom  of  movement.  The 
horse  also  must  be  perfectly  well  trained  to  these 
hazardous  undertakings,  and  should  obey  instantly 
the  slightest  pull  of  the  bit ;  for  if  the  bull  turns  sud- 
denly u]ion  his  pursuer,  the  chances  are  ten  to  one 
that  the  horse  will  be  severely  wounded.  The  rider 
first  gallops  close  to  the  rear  of  the  bull,  and  seizing 
ills  tail  with  one  hand,  gives  it  a  turn  or  two  around 
his  wrist  to  prevent  its  slipping.  When  thus  pre- 
]iared,  he  urges  his  horse  forward,  until  the  heads  of 
the  two  animals  are  on  a  "  dead-heat ;  "  then  quickly 
turning  in  an  oblique  direction,  and  exerting  all  his 
strength,  he  pulls  the  bull  toward  him,  and  does  not 
relinquish  his  hold  until  he  ])erceives  that  the  enemy 
is  tottering,  when  he  is  easily  overthrown  from  the 
great  impetus  imparted  by  their  rapid  pace.  Some 
men  are  so  dexterous  that  they  can  colear  with  both 
hands  at  the  same  time ;  which  necessarily  gives  greater 
power  over  the  bull,  enabling  the  rider  to  bring  him 
down  nmcli  more  readily.  The  horse,  in  this  case, 
left  to  his  own  well-taught  guidance,  assists  the  man- 
ceuvres  of  his  rider,  pushing  forward  at  the  instant  he 
perceives  that  his  master  is  prepared  for  the  pull,  and 
turning  about  also  at  the  right  moment.     How  won- 


1S4  TllAVELS  AND  ADVENTCRLS. 

durful  tlic  instinct  of  tliese  noble  creature!  liiat 
teaches  them  so  readily  the  irnj>ortunce  of  the  slifrht- 
est  movement,  on  wliieh  often  dejtends,  not  only  the 
suerets  of  the  enterprise,  but  their  own  safety,  as 
well  ns  that  of  their  masters.  If  too  powerful  resist- 
ance is  olfered  at  the  outset  by  the  bull,  as  is  some- 
times the  case,  the  rider  htill  clings  to  the  tail  of  his 
adversary,  and  throwin<;  himself  oft'  his  horse  while 
at  full  6j)ced,  the  imj)etus  combined  with  his  weight 
and  strengrth  never  fail  in  bringing  the  bull  like  a 
fallen  giant  to  the  ground  ;  then  the  man  quickly 
drawing  the  tail  between  the  hind  legs,  awaits  the 
arrival  of  his  companions  to  assist  in  securing  the 
pri/.c. 

It  was  often  matter  of  surprise  to  me  in  what 
manner  the  Llancros,  notwithstanding  the  thorough 
training  t»f  the  horses,  contrived  their  speedy  np- 
])n)ach  to  the  rear  of  the  bulls,  as  these  were  usually 
considerably  ahead  at  the  start.  On  one  occasion,  I 
was  regretting  that  my  pony  was  too  small  to  keep 
pace  with  the  hunters,  when  one  of  the  men,  who  was 
mounted  on  a  prototype  of  Rosinante — on  which, 
nevertheless,  he  had  ]>erformwl  prodigies  of  strength 
— turned  to  me  and  said,  "  V(J>/«j,  niiio^  let  me  show 
you  that  this  is  not  the  fault  of  the  horse,  but  that  of 
the  rider  :"  whereupon  we  exchanged  horses,  and  off 
he  went  after  a  powerfid  bull  just  escajM^l.  Not 
many  minutes  elapsed  before  I  lost  sight  of  horse  and 
rider  in  a  chuul  of  dust  raised  by  the  beast  in  its  fall. 

Sonie  hours  elapsed  before  the  tremendous  excite- 
ment and  confusion  of  the  wild  melee  described  above 
had  sufiiciently  subsided  to  render  the  forms  of  men 


THE  RODEO.  185 

and  cattle  visiLle  tlir()Ujj;li  the  clouds  of  dust  and  aslics 
raised  by  the  tranii)ling  of  so  many  animals.  The 
i^rass,  at  this  period  j)arclicd  by  the  sun  and  reduced 
to  ashes  in  various  places  by  the  usual  contiagrations, 
niini:;led  -with  the  dust  and  rose  in  dense  columns, 
which  from  afar  might  have  been  mistaken  for  the 
dreaded  monsoon. 

In  the  mean  while  the  distracted  mothers  ran  from 
side  to  side,  lowing  piteously  for  their  missing 
young.  Here  and  there  fierce  duellos  among  rival 
bulls  took  place  for  the  possession  of  some  shaggy  one 
of  the  softer  sex.  Butting  their  huge  fronts  together, 
and  goring  each  other  with  their  sharp-pointed  horns, 
they  fought  with  the  courage  and  skill  of  accomplished 
gladiators,  tearing  up  the  earth  in  wild  fury,  and  fill- 
ing the  air  with  their  deep,  savage  bellowings.  A 
crowd  of  admirers  from  amidst  the  herd  formed  a 
circle  around  the  combatants,  and  if  any  from  among 
their  number  evinced  the  least  disposition  to  interfere, 
he  was  immediately  chased  away  by  the  others,  so 
that  there  might  be  fair  play  while  the  fight  lasted. 
Often  these  encounters  proved  fiital  to  one  of  the  bel- 
ligerents, as  neither  will  yield  the  palm  without  a 
desperate  resistance. 

The  bellowing  of  thousands  of  animals,  with  the 
yells  and  deafening  shouts  of  the  men  galloping 
about  the  jdain,  waving  their  ponchos  and  rattling 
their  garrochas,  cond)ined  to  give  the  scene  more  the 
a])pearance  of  a  fiendish  melodrama,  than  a  ]>nrely 
pastoral  assemblage  of  men  and  cattle. 

Tlie  confusion  having  at  lengtli  subsided,  four 
of  the  ablest  horsemen,  penetrating  the  living  mass, 


l^,;  TKAVEL8   AXU   ADVENTlUEri. 

which,  as  thi y  advanced,  surj;ed  on  either  t^ide  like 
the  wavejj  of  the  6ea,  coninieneed  the  ditliciilt  task  ol' 
sejmratin;;  the  animals  intended  for  tlie  brand,  and 
those  belonging  to  our  neighbors.  This  occasionetl 
another  series  of  evolutions,  which  only  men  trained 
to  such  exercises  could  have  ac•coml•li^hed  euccess- 
fully. 

It  is  usual  in  all  cattli'-farms  to  cut  a  notch  or  two 
in  the  animal's  ear  at  the  time  they  are  brandeil,  for 
the  i)urj)ose  of  recognizing  them  more  readily  from  a 
di.stance,  a  precaution  which  is  jiarticularly  serviceable 
on  occasions  like  that  just  described,  it  being  impossi- 
ble to  read  the  brand  when  the  creatures  arc  crowded 
into  a  herd.  Although  most  of  the  calves  had  not 
the  notch,  they  belong  by  right  to  the  owner  of  the 
mother,  even  if  they  are  found  on  the  lands  of  another 
j>arty.  Of  it  the  vaqucros  availed  themselves  in 
their  subsetjuent  apportioning  of  the  diflerent  lots  of 
cattle.  This  they  accomjili.-hcd  in  the  most  exj>edi- 
tious  manner  by  riding  boldly  at  the  animals  in  <jucs- 
tion,  hastening  or  checking  their  jtrogress  through  the 
herd  as  the  case  required.  Thus  by  repeated  evolu- 
tions of  the  sort,  they  finally  bri>ught  the  animals  to 
the  edge  of  the  ring,  where  an  o|>ening  was  puri>oscly 
left  fur  their  cscaj^e,  and  then  the  nearest  horseman 
drove  them  in  among  a  small  body  of  tame  cattle  sta- 
tioned a  short  distance  iVom  the  nxho.  Tlicse  violent 
niano-uvrings  could  not  be  accomplished,  however, 
without  endangering  at  every  steji  the  scM-urity  of  the 
entire  herd.  Kach  time  the  drivers  turned  out  an 
animal  the  whole  mass  was  thrown  into  the  utmost 
confusion,  and  it  retpiircd  The  most  consiimiiiatc  skill 


THE  RODEO.  187 

on  the  part  of  tlio  men  to  provent  the  entire  disper- 
sion oi'  the  cuttle.  The  fearlessness  with  which  the 
drivers  j)hingecl  into  that  hibyrintli  of  savage,  panting 
brutes,  advancing  ch)se  upon  the  wall  of  bristling 
liorns  which  barred  their  progress,  and  boldly  driving 
the  infuriated  creatures  before  them  like  a  pack  of 
sheep,  was  truly  worthy  of  admiration.  The  readiness 
with  which  they  detected  at  a  distance  tlie  nuirk  on  the 
animars  cars  was  also  no  less  noticeable,  singling  out 
smth  at  a  glance,  and  immediately  driving  them  away 
to  their  respective  groups.  When  all  the  brands  had 
tluis  been  apportioned,  each  owner  proceeded  to  drive 
away  liis  own  herd.  "We  found  in  these  cases — as  in- 
deed in  all  similar  ones — the  assistance  of  madnneros 
or  trained  oxen,  of  great  service  in  driving  a  large 
body  of  cattle  across  the  plains.  A  dozen  of  these* 
oxen  were  sufficient  to  lead  a  vast  drove,  stopping  or. 
advancing  at  a  signal  from  the  overseer,  while  the 
va(pieros  kept  close  watch  on  rear  and  flank  to  pre- 
vent escape  and  to  urge  on  the  cattle,  especially  the 
crowd  of  stray  calves — some  of  them  only  a  few  hours 
old — which,  like  a  procession  of  lost  children,  kept  up 
a  continual  bewailing  for  their  mothers  as  if  the  last 
ray  of  hope  had  departed  from  them.  Although 
their  case  was  indeed  a  hard  one,  and  the  task  of  driv- 
ing them  over  the  rough  ground  still  harder,  we  were 
unwilling  to  leave  them  behind,  hoping  to  find  their 
mannnas  among  the  multitude  before  us.  When  within 
a  short  distance  from  the  house,  we  halted  to  make 
preparations  for  the  enclosure  of  the  herds.  But  one 
of  the  most  dangerous  parts  of  the  proceedings  yet  re- 
mained, that  oi  forcing  the  cattle  into  the  corrals. 


13S  TliAVLI.S    AM)    AUVrNTntCS. 

TliP  cntranre*  to  tin*  vinjatht — iiliai>iHl  like  :i  frrcnt 
funnel — was,  like  the  rest  ut'  the  feiR-e>,  made  of  verv 
Btron^  posts,  drive!!  into  the  ground  and  barred  across 
at  intervals  with  thick  rafters  of  haniboo.  Through 
this  funnel,  or  inaufja^  the  cattle  in  small  lots  were 
driven  at  full  S])eed  headed  l>y  the  uHuIrimrofi — those 
treacherous  guides  trained  to  ensnare  their  kindred — 
while  the  horsemen  barricaded  the  mouth  of  the  fun- 
nel with  the  breasts  of  the  poor  horses.  Every  thing 
jtroceedcd  satisfactorily  as  far  as  the  end  of  the  funnel, 
the  madrincroSy  with  all  the  cunning  of  semi-civilizeil 
b  utes,  redoubling  their  pace  at  the  moment  of  enter- 
ing the  great  enclosure.  Then  their  wild  brethren, 
perceiving  the  treachery,  tunied  upon  their  ca])tors, 
and  a  most  fearful  struggle  ensued.  The  bulls,  in 
sjiite  (»f  the  deafening  shouts  of  the  men,  and  the  for- 
midable array  o{  giirrorhnji  levelled  at  their  heads,  en- 
deavored to  force  their  way  back  to  the  open  plain, 
and  many  of  them  actually  succeeded  in  breaking 
through  the  barricade  of  horses.  Tlius  many  noble 
steeds,  which  until  then  had  escaped  unhurt,  met  with 
an  inglorious  death.  That  most  of  the  men  escaped 
unhurt,  appeared  little  less  than  miraculous,  as  not 
only  were  they  also  exposed  at  every  moment  to  the 
vindictive  attacks  of  the  bulls,  but  it  often  happened 
that  some  of  them  were  uidiorse*!,  when  they  were  in 
imminent  danger  of  being  trampled  by  the  retreating 
foe.  Tlie  fuperior  skill  and  intrepidity  of  man,  how- 
over,  triumphed  at  length  over  mere  brute  resistance, 
ami  the  whole  herd  w:i-«  in  a  -b.irt  tiiuf  mcuiiIv  .luar- 
tered  in  the  majadu. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 


BRA^^DING      SCENES. 

"  Entre  tanto  en  anclia  hogucra 
Como  pnccndido  tizon, 
Ya  la  marca  ccntcllea 
Con  chispae  do  aziil  punzo." 

Vestira  de  la  Vega. 


It  was  late  in  the  evening  Mlienwe  partook  of  our 
only  meal  that  day,  and  we  afterward  retired  to  rest, 
but  not  to  sleep,  owing  to  the  incessant  noise  made 
hy  the  cattle  in  the  corrals,  who,  during  the  whole 
night,  were  rushing  to  and  fro  as  if  goaded  by  demons. 
Sometimes  we  feared  that  the  fences  would  give  way 
before  their  mad  onset,  while  the  dust  rose  in  suffo- 
cating clouds,  filling  the  atmosphere  and  mingling 
with  our  food,  which  was  thus  rendered  almost  unfit 
for  use.  Tlie  bellowing,  roaring,  and  moaning  of  the 
herd  could  only  be  likened  to  the  wild  confusion  of  a 
battle-field.  Many  of  the  savage  bulls  in  their  fury 
turned  their  horns,  sharp  as  bayonets,  against  their 
own  kindred.  The  proud  padrote,  his  dusky  mate, 
and  the  tender  heifer  shared  alike  in  the  slaughter. 
The  next  day  numbers  lay  gored  to  death  in  the  dust 


100  TKAVKI.S  ANU  ADVKNTLKES. 

of  the  corniU,  wliile  others  presentetl  ghastly  wouiuls. 
Soon  tlu'  ciinu^ises  begun  to  jiutrely,  wliiih,  adile<l  to 
the  |iartii-k'S  ot'  thist  lloating  throUirli  tl»r  air  we 
breathed,  rendered  the  atnio>|»here  intok-rable.  Many 
more  of  the  eattle  died  of  gutlocation,  and  others  from 
an  infeetious  disease  indnced  Ijv  the  erowded  state  of 
the  herd  and  the  noxious  exhahitions  from  tlie  cur- 
easses.  We  therefore  lost  no  time  in  branding  them 
that  they  might  be  eet  friiQy  Icbt  the  infeetion  bhould 
extend  to  the  whttle  herd. 

Animals  aifreti-d  in  this  manner  exhibit  no  sy!ui»- 
toms  of  the  disease  until  immediately  prior  t«>  their 
demise,  when  they  are  observed  to  stagger  a  few 
j>aees  and  dr«»]>  suddenly,  as  if  shot  by  a  ritle  ball  ; 
and  yet  the  vultnres  seem  to  possess  an  intuitive 
knowledge  of  this  a]»proa(liing  dissolution,  in  jtroof 
whereof,  numbers  of  these  feathery  satellites  of  death 
ean  be  seen  hovering  around  an  animal  whieh  the 
scourge  has  doomed,  although  it  is  aj)]»arently  still  in 
perfect  health.  The  infection,  fortunately,  is  eonfineti 
to  the  horned  eattle,  no  instance  of  its  transmission  to 
Other  creatures  o^'curring,  exce]»t  in  the  casi*  of  men 
venturing  to  skin  the  carcasses,  when  it  assumes  a  dif- 
ferent form.  IVi-sons  M-ho  have  thus  exposed  them- 
selves are  seized  with  a  horrible  swi-lling  o(  the  neck, 
commencing  with  u  j»im]»le  not  larger  than  a  ]>in's 
head,  and  gradually  increasing  in  size  until  it  extends 
to  the  eeril»ellum.  Death  is  the  inevitable  result  if  the 
patient  is  not  promjitly  attended  by  a  skilful  jihysi- 
cian.  n»ere  were  two  or  three  cases  of  the  kind 
among  our  own  jtcoplc,  but  by  careful  treatment  we 
Were  fortunate  enough  to  ^ave  them.    There  are,  how- 


BRANDING  SCENES.  191 

ever,  every  year  many  poor  follows  in  that  improvi- 
dent rei2:ion,-\vho,  not  having  the  same  advantages,  arc 
often  carried  away  hy  the  distemper. 

The  hranding  of  cattle,  as  conchuted  in  extensive 
establishments,  is  a  real  festival  for  the  sport-loving 
peojile  of  the  Llanos  ;  and  each  one  feels  himself  as 
deeply  interested  therein  as  though  assisting  at  a 
grand  bull  light — the  time-honored  amusement  of  the 
descendants  of  Pelayo,  the  Cid,  and  other  worthies  of 
like  celebrity  ;  and  indeed  the  former,  or  Jiierra,  as 
that  wild  ])ageant  is  termed,  with  all  its  incidents  and 
dangers,  all  its  noise  and  bustle,  is  perhaps  the  grand- 
est s]>ectacle  of  the  kind  that  could  be  devised  for  the 
entertaimnent  and  training  of  that  chivalric  race. 
It  is  undoubtedly  one  of  the  wildest  scenes  ever  be- 
held in  the  pampas,  and  one  which  afforded  me  ex- 
ceeding pleasure  from  the  variety  of  incident  accom- 
panying it.  The  majada  is,  in  fact,  the  school  in 
which  from  infancy  the  Llanero  is  trained  to  conquer 
or  to  die  in  daily  struggles  with  the  brute  creation. 
It  is  a  veritable  Olympic  Circus,  where  the  agility 
and  strength  for  which  he  is  famed  are  displayed 
during  the  exciting  operations  performed  uj)on  the 
savage  denizens  of  the  savannas,  branding  and  mark- 
ing the  calves,  sawing  off  the  horns  of  furious  bulls 
and  converting  them  into  o.xcn  for  the  improvement 
of  their  flesh  and  disjiosition. 

On  the  day  appointed,  all  animals  confined  in  the 
majada  are  driven  into  the  con'ahjas  or  smaller  cor- 
rals adjoining  the  great  enclosure,  and  there  packed 
as  closely  as  possible  to  prevent  the  bulls,  alwa^'s 
ready  to  strike,  from  doing  much  mischief  among 


103  THAVKLS   AM)    ADVF.NTLUtS. 

their  own  kiinlnil.  Meuntiine  the  nun  |-nj..m 
their  la/i>s  aiul  etation  tlicuiH-'lves  according  to  their 
re>i>ictivc  strcn;^th  and  ahility,  while  the  boys  kindle 
a  hliucing  tire  in  a  sale  corner  of  the  mojada,  in  which 
the  various  brands  to  be  u^ed  are  kept  at  a  red  heat. 
These  brands  generally  rcj)resent  the  initials  of  the 
owner,  or  some  sort  of  hierogly|»hic  stainp  afiixed  to 
the  end  of  a  long  handle.  A  record  of  the:ie  is  kcjtt 
by  the  Justice  of  the  Peace  in  each  district ;  and  it  is 
c(»nsidercd  a  great  crime  to  alter  or  in  any  unauthor- 
ized manner  ell'ace  their  im])ression  from  the  skin  of 
animals.  The  cattle  are  usually  branded  on  the 
haunches  ;  but  whenever  a  horse,  mule,  or  marc  is 
6t»ld,  the  brand  in  a  reversed  ]>osition  is  again  affixed, 
this  time  on  its  ^houlder,  followed  by  the  buyer's 
brand,  the  same  operation  being  repeated  whenever 
the  animal  changes  hands,  so  that  some  ]toor  beasts 
come  at  last  to  be  <]uite  disiigurcd  with  deep  scars. 

AVhen  all  is  ready  for  the  fray,  the  majordomo, 
climbing  to  the  highest  post  of  the  enclosure,  from 
whence  he  directs  operations,  gives  the  signal.  Here 
lie  keeps  an  account  of  the  calves  branded,  l>y  notch- 
ing a  long  strip  of  raw  hide.  A  number  of  these 
strips,  called  tarja  or  tally,  are  carefully  juesened  in 
every  cattle  farm  as  a  record  to  be  laid  before  the 
owner  at  the  year's  end  in  lieu  of  bulancc-shcet. 

The  jtrincipal  business  of  the  day  being  that  of 
branding  the  calves  collected  at  the  rodto,  two  or 
three  men  armed  with  lazos,  fearlessly  enter  the 
pens  at  peril  of  lite  and  limb — for  the  mothers  are 
ever  ready  to  defi  nd  their  young — and  jiroceed  to 
drag  the  calves  out  singly  by  means  of  the  lar.o, 


U  KAN  DING  fcJCENElS.  I93 

though  not  without  many  ol)stinate  struggles  on  their 
part,  and  the  more  formidable  resistance  of  their  jiar- 
ents,  which  are  kept  Lack  at  the  point  of  the  (jar- 
rocha  by  men  stationed  on  the  fences.  The  contest, 
however,  is  not  of  very  long  duration  ;  the  calf  nearly 
choked  by  the  hizo,  and  tormented  by  a  cruel  twisting 
of  his  tail,  springs  forward  toward  the  branding 
place.  The  moment  he  passes  the  threshold,  one  or 
two  little  imps  pounce  upon  the  tail,  jerking  it  imtil 
they  succeed  in  throwing  him  down  ;  the  lazo  is  then 
quickly  removed,  and  the  captor  hurries  back  to  the 
pen  for  another  calf.  "When  a  number  have  been 
thus  secured,  a  man  goes  round  with  the  brand,  and 
in  a  very  short  time  the  whole  lot  are  stamped 
with  tlie  burning  seal  of  the  estate  amidst  the  pit- 
eous bellowiugs  and  ineHectual  kicks  of  the  helpless 
creatures. 

These  operations,  although  performed  on  young 
animals,  are  not  so  easily  accomplished  as  might  be 
supposed  ;  it  being  not  unusual  for  full-grown  ones  to 
spring  over  the  fences,  or  force  their  way  througli  the 
narrow  gate  of  their  pen.  At  such  times,  the  opera- 
tors outside  are  in  imminent  danger  of  being  assailed 
by  the  fugitives,  if  the  latter  are  not  i)romptly  se- 
cured by  men  stationed  for  the  purpo.'^e  at  the  gate  of 
the  corrah'jas.  It  becomes  a  much  more  serious  busi- 
ness when  a  powerful  bull  is  lazoed.  lie  not  only  re- 
fuses obstinately  to  be  dragged  out  like  a  calf,  but  re- 
quires the  combined  force  and  skill  of  all  the  men  to 
compel  him  from  the  pen,  although  the  gate  is  pur- 
posely left  wide  open.  In  such  cases  a  picador, 
climbing  to  the  top  of  the  fence,  endeavors  to  drive 


li>4  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES. 

out  the  animal  bv  repeated  thrusts  of  the  goad  ;  that 
also  failing:,  another  lets  hiniselt'  down  elose  to  the 
hull's  tail,  whieh  ho  twists  violently,  and  this  seldom 
fails  to  drive  the  refraetory  ereature  madly  out,  fol- 
lowed by  the  shouts  and  huzziis  of  his  eruel  torment- 
ors. The  next  j»r«)eeedin<|;  is  to  throw  him  for  the 
jiurpose  of  re^ainin<^  the  luxo,  and  for  the  perfornjanee 
of  the  abovt'-mentione<l  t»i)erations.  This,  however,  is 
no  easy  matter,  from  the  frantie  jdun^'es  of  the  bull, 
who  has  the  entire  ran^e  c»f  the  lazo.  The  only  ecr- 
tain  metlhtd  is  that  o\'  drairj^inj;  him  elose  upon  a 
post — hotaltiH — driven  into  the  ground,  where  his  over- 
throw is  finally  aceomitlished  by  the  united  etforts  of 
several  njen,  one  fn*i»j'I'^"'f?  ^"*  1''"'^  ^^'*^^^  anothei 
6eizin<^  the  tail,  while  two  others  keeji  a  steady  hold 
of  the  thon«r,  until  the  animal,  at  hu>t  exhaustetl,  drops 
heavily  to  the  ground. 

To  justly  appreciate  scenes  like  these,  one  mn.»f 
himself    behold    the   dusky    athlete   battling   sin_'U- 
han«le<l   with   a   bull  ju.-t  escajiing  from   «i:e  < 
Seizing  iiim  by   a  horn  with  one  hand,  the  L';i 
etill  holding  it  watches  his  op]>ortunity  until  he  can 
grasp  with  the  other  the  a::imars  tail.     The  bull  is 
then  allowetj  to  run  as  fast  as  he  will,  as  the  greater 
his  speed  the  more  easily  his  downfall  is  aieoinp!!-'     ' 
If  the  bull  moves  too  slowly,  a  few  i;::;l.e.-^i 
generally  accelerate  his  speed  ;    but  oeea>iona.;y   h 
returns  the  compliment  by  turning  fiercely  upon  hi.- 
tail-bearer,  who,  if  not  very  nimble,  risks  being  gored 
to  death  ;  yet  his  skilful  antagonist,  not  only  usually 
succeeds  in  evading  his  attack,  but  speedily  c<»ntrive> 
to  throw  him.     No  sooner  dots  this  oeeiir,  than  thr 


BRANDING  SCENES.  195 

vaTiquishcd  one  is  snrronnded  by  a  liost  of  merry  yell- 
ini;  vagabonds,  one  brandisLing  a  huge  knife,  which 
lie  sharpens  on  the  horns  previous  to  performing  the 
operation  which  transforms  the  animal  into  an  ox, 
and  if  not  previously  marked,  cuts  his  ear  according 
to  the  rule  of  the  estate  whose  property  he  is ;  another 
holds  a  red-hot  brand,  which  he  imjdants  at  once 
npon  the  quivering  hide  ;  while  a  third  with  a  small 
hand-saw  cuts  off  the  sharp  points  of  the  horns.  The 
whole  operation  scarcely  occupies  three  minutes'  time  ; 
but  notwithstanding  this,  the  danger  is  very  great  if 
the  bull  succeed  in  regaining  his  feet  before  it  is  fin- 
ished, as,  instead  of  being  subdued,  no  sooner  is  he 
free,  than  he  turns  upon  his  assailants  in  renewed 
fury,  and  then  those  valiant  heroes  may  be  seen  scat- 
tering about  the  arena  like  a  flock  of  partridges. 
With  nostrils  widely  distended,  and  foaming  at  the 
mouth,  the  bull  for  an  instant  stands  an  embodiment 
of  rage  and  terror,  endeavoring  to  discover  the  objects 
of  his  vengeance.  Xone,  however,  are  presumptuous 
enough  to  await  his  onset ;  they  would  be  levelled 
with  the  dust  in  an  instant,  and  his  conquerors  there- 
fore adopt  the  wiser  policy  of  a  speedy  retreat  to  the 
highest  fence,  whence  they  pour  a  volley  of  abuse 
upon  his  shaggy  head. 

Occasionally,  while  the  'men  were  engaged  with 
one  bull,  several  others  efiected  their  escape  in  spite 
of  the  men  whose  business  it  was  to  prevent  it.  The 
situation  of  the  others  then  became  critical  in  the  ex- 
treme, being  exposed  to  the  attacks  of  the  fugitives 
on  the  one  hand,  and  to  those  of  the  prisoner  on  the 
other  ;  this  last  they  were  often  compelled  to  abandon 


190  TKAVKLS    AND   ADVENTURHS. 

in  till*  midst  of  tluir  laltors.  TIjopo  who  lieUl  youiiircr 
aniiiiuls  lonmd  witli  their  bodies  a  eort  of  barricade 
with  which  to  feud  off  tlie  a^gre^^or,  when  no  other 
expedient  couhl  be  resorted  to.  At  times  it  appeared 
ahuost  impossible  to  escape  the  imiietiiouii  eharjre  of 
the  bulls,  especially  when  the  men  were  boiue  distance 
from  the  fences  ;  the  only  remaining  means  of  safety 
then  consisted  in  throwing;  themselves  flat  upon  the 
pround  at  the  moment  the  bull  aimed  a  stroke,  as  in 
that  case  the  animal  invariably  jumped  over  their 
bodies.  It  is  asserted  that  bulls  in  charging  alwa^'S 
close  their  eyes,  thus  missing  in  blind  jirecipitancy 
many  excellent  opportunities  for  avenging  the  out- 
rages perpetrated  on  their  race.  Not  so  the  cows, 
who  are  sai«l  to  keep  their  eyes  fully  open  wlien  they 
are  bent  on  mischief,  seldom  if  ever  turning  from  their 
intended  victim  without  leaving  some  tnark,  of  either 
horn  or  hoof,  in  token  of  displeasure. 

On  one  occasion  our  leader  himself  very  narrowly 
escaped  from  one  of  these  infuriate  feminalitics  in 
spite  of  his  ability  in  dealing  with  wild  cattle,  and  his 
dexterity  in  avoiding  their  attacks.  We  liad  just  en- 
tered the  majada,  and  were  making  preparations  for 
the  coming  frolic.  "NVe  stood  under  the  fhade  of  a 
Fj>lendid  matdjxilo  or  wild  fig-tree  growing  within 
the  great  enclosure,  when  a  cow,  which  had  left  her 
young  behind  while  chased  in  the  savanna,  feeling 
rather  uneasy  in  conse<|uence,  cleared  the  fence  of  the 
pen  wherein  she  was  confined,  and  the  next  moment 
was  among  us.  All  retreated  to  the  fences,  excepting 
our  leader,  who,  ever  rather  sensitive  about  turning 
liis  back  upon  an  enemy,  stood  his  ground  somewhat 


BRANDING  SCENES.  197 

protected  by  the  stout  body  of  the  tree.  The  cow  at 
first  appeared  to  pay  but  little  attention  to  him,  mak- 
ing straight  for  the  gate  of  the  majada,  which  she. 
unfortunately,  found  strongly  barred  against  her 
escape.  Then  retracing  her  steps,  she  sought  to 
avenge  her  evident  dlsa])pointment  upon  the  gentle- 
man in  white,  whom  she  very  well  recollected  having 
left  at  the  foot  of  the  old  matajpalo.  Still  the  un- 
daunted soldier,  although  repeatedly  urged  by  his 
men  to  fly,  scorned  the  idea  of  seeking  the  talan- 
quera,  or,  in  other  words,  climbing  the  fence  in  a 
liurry,  thinking  at  first  to  avoid  the  enemy  by  step- 
ping round  and  round  the  tree  ;  but  the  cow  was  too 
cunning  to  be  cheated  in  this  manner.  After  thus 
chasing  him  in  vain  for  a  few  minutes,  she  suddenly 
changed  her  course,  seeking  him  in  the  opposite  di- 
rection, which  brought  them  face  to  face.  Unfortu- 
nately, the  General,  who  had  that  morning  been  sitting 
for  his  likeness  in  the  full  costume  of  the  Llanos  which 
he  still  wore,  found  himself  rather  embarrassed  in  his 
movements  by  the  wide  folds  of  the  mania.  Tliis 
prevented  him  from  drawing  the  sword  he  had  re- 
tained, which  was  his  first  impulse  ;  and  he  therefore 
retreated  a  few  paces  into  a  more  open  space  where 
he  could  torear  her  until  others  came  to  his  assistance. 
With  the  subtlety  of  her  sex  the  cow  at  once  perceived 
his  intentions,  and  rapidly  following  his  every  move- 
ment, watched  her  opportunity  to  strike  him  on  the 
side ;  but  he,  precisely  at  the  right  instant,  with  great 
presence  of  mind  threw  himself  flat  upon  the  ground 
just  as  she  aimed  the  blow.  Instead,  however,  of  jump- 
ing over  him,  as  is  usual  with  bulls  in  similar  cases,  the 


198  TKAVK1.S  AM)   ADVENTURES. 

COW  milled  upon  him,  when  liis  adroitne^  in  praiijiin'i 
one  of  her  fore  I'eet  so  linnly  as  to  arrest  further  at- 
tack until  others  eanie  to  his  relief,  j)revente<l  any  in- 
jury beyond  a  slight  seratch  on  his  side  and  tearing 
his  jiianta. 

It  is  needless  to  add  that  after  so  disrespectful  an 
assault  upon  the  revered  person  of  our  leader,  the 
cow  receive<l  no  gentle  treatment  at  the  hands  of  the 
indignant  vdfjutros:  some  were  for  dcp])atching  her 
at  once  for  their  evening  meal  ;  others,  for  athxing  a 
dry  hide  to  the  end  of  her  tail  and  letting  her  loose 
over  the  plain  ;  while  a  few,  compassionating  her  ig- 
norance, among  them  the  aggrieved  owner,  were 
only  for  depriving  her  of  the  means  of  doing  further 
mischief  with  the  honis.  Tliis  o]>inion  prevailing  at 
last  over  all  others,  the  ruthless  hand  of  the  execu- 
tioner at  once  apj)lied  the  saw  to  the  pride  of  her 
head,  after  which  she  was  allowed  to  dcjinrt  in  ]>cacc. 
Thus  ended  a  short,  hut  not  altogether  inglorious 
struggle,  which,  hut  for  the  cunning  and  address  dis- 
])laycd  on  hoth  sides,  might  have  tcniiiiiatcd  fatally 
to  cither  of  the  parties  engaged  in  it. 

After  the  corrahjan  had  been  cniptic<l  of  their 
(>ontents,  there  still  remained  in  the  uKijada  several 
hulls  at  large,  which  had  escaped  during  the  confu- 
sion ;  and  many  of  these  not  yet  having  heen  oper- 
ated upon,  another  most  exciting  chase  was  alTordcil 
to  the  indcfatigahlc  and  athletic  hunters.  Tlic  nar 
rowness  of  the  field,  however,  which  y»recluded  tin- 
use  of  hors«>s,  and  the  fact  that  each  hull  n<juire«l  to 
be  ca]>tured  with  the  lazo,  on-a.-ioncd  t-t  rious  obsla- 


BRANDING  SCENES.  IQQ 

clos  and  much  risk  to  the  men  engac^cd  therein.  Lack 
of  vohinteers  there  was  none,  and  among  them  a  pow- 
erful red-haired  zamho,  whicli  freak  of  nature  had  ob- 
tained for  him  the  sobriquet  of  Colorado — the  red  man. 
Tliis  fellow  enjoyed  a  wide  reputation  in  the 
country  for  his  exploits,  both  in  field  and  corral,  and 
on  this  occasion  proved  himself  deserving  of  the  fame 
which  he  had  heretofore  achieved.  It  was  he  who 
now  first  led  the  charge.  Seizing  a  lazo  of  long  di- 
mensions, contrary  to  usual  practice,  he  proceeded  to 
coil  it  on  his  right  hand,  securing  the  end  upon  his 
left.  Then,  cautiously  approaching  a  formidable 
black  bull,  which  stood  alone  in  the  centre  of  the 
7}^/J(uI(t;  ho  sent  the  whole  lazo,  noose  and  all,  uncoil- 
ing like  a  snake  through  the  air  until  it  reached  the 
animal's  head.  Although  the  distance  must  have 
been  thirty  paces,  we  had  the  satisfaction  of  seeing 
the  noose  settle  round  his  neck  as  truly  as  if  placed 
there  by  the  jiractised  hand  of  a  hangman.  From 
this  moment,  Colorado  was  unanimously  proclaimed 
master  of  the  lazo,  an  honor  which  he  enjoyed  to  the 
end  of  the  pcrfornuinces,  as  all  that  remained  in  this 
case  to  be  accomplished  by  the  others  was  merely  to 
pull  the  lazo  in  order  to  bring  the  bull  up  to  the 
botalon  or  upright  post,  which  served  the  double 
purpose  of  subduing  stake  for  the  bulls,  and  training 
post  for  the  boys.  To  it  one  or  more  young  bulls 
were  usually  brought  at  the  end  of  the  day's  work, 
and  the  boys  com])cllcd  to  mount  them  in  the  manner 
described  in  a  previous  chapter  ;  the  animals  are  then 
set  loose  amidst  the  crowd  of  assembled  quadrui)eds, 
which  are  evidently  amazed  at  the  singular  si^ectacle. 


200  THAVKLS  AM)   ADVESTCRES. 


AVi.'  witnessed  Bovoral  exhibitions  of  tlic  kind  in 
tlie  7jHiJ<niti,  "whenever  we  were  j>rcsent  at  the  brand- 
in*;  of  the  cattle  ;  but  nevi-r  do  I  rct-oUert  any  eerious 
accident  occurring  to  the  little  riders.  Tlius  it  is  that 
the  Llaneros  educate  tlicir  boys  from  infancy  to  the 
severest  exercises  of  their  pntfession,  so  that  tluy  in 
tuni  may  teach  the  same  to  their  own  children. 

Not  always,  however,  is  the  Llanero's  triumj.h 
over  the  brute  creatittn  obtaine<l  so  easily,  for  many 
arc  the  instances  in  which  the  latter  gain  the  advan- 
tage in  these  hand-to-horn  combats,  and  in  such  cases 
the  evil  resulting  is  very  great.  Sometimes  the  men 
are  dreadfully  lacerated,  either  by  the  lioms  or  the 
sharp  lioofs  of  their  antagonists,  frequently  losing 
their  lives  in  conse<[uence,  from  want  of  i)roper  medi- 
cal treatment  at  the  time  the  wounds  are  inflicted. 
The  most  conmion  ]»hase  the  disease  assumes  is  that 
of  tetanus  or  lock-jaw,  which  sometimes  ensues  from 
only  a  slight  scratch  on  the  tendinous  part  of  tlie  f(K)t. 
From  the  scarcity  of  surgeons  in  the  country,  and  the 
lack  of  skill  in  dressing  these  wounds,  mortification, 
aneurisms,  malignant  abscesses,  and  a  variety  of  other 


BRANDING  SCENES.  201 

complaints  arc  amongst  the  evils  resulting-  from  this 
otherwise  entertaining  sport.  In  spite  of  all  onr  pre- 
cautions, and  the  assistance  of  the  surgeon,  Dr.  Gal- 
legos,  wc  lost  three  of  our  best  men,  and  several 
others  afterward  died  in  consequence  of  injuries  re- 
ceived during  that  expedition. 


(  iiArrKK  XV 


Tin:  \\  ide  extent  of  the  i»avannas  conij>oKiii<r  this 
cnttle  lann,  aiul  the  dispersion  of  the  lierds  thrt»Tiirh- 
oiit  them,  ennipelUd  ns  to  remove  our  quarters  to  a 
more  central  jxtint,  from  whence  we  eouhl  sally  forth 
in  their  juirsuit.  Orders  were  issued  aceordin;:ly  for 
the  men  to  he  in  readiness,  and  the  next  morning  we 
quitted  with  rejrret  our  eomf{»rtahlc  quarters  at  the 
niajordomo's  mansion  and  started  for  Mata-Gorda, 
one  of  those  deli«:htful  ])rimcval  proves  wliieli  dot  the 
prairies  here  and  there. 

Some  idea  of  the  extent  of  this  liuire  farm  may  he 
pnthcred  from  the  fact  that  one  may  start  at  a  j^aliop 
early  in  the  morniui;  from  one  end  of  the  savannas 
and  not  reach  the  other  until  late  at  ni^ht  of  the  same 
day.  Its  area  would  measure  at  lea.'it  eighty  square 
leagues,  or  ahout  one  hundred  and  litlty  thousand  acrea 
of  the  richest  land,  hut  which  under  the  ]>resent  hack- 
ward  and  revohjtionarA'  state  of  tlie  country  is  com- 
paratively valueless  to  its  owner.     The  number  of 


PLANTS  AND  SNAKES.  OQS 

cattle  dispersed  throughout  the  length  and  breadth 
of  this  wide  extent  of  prairie  land  was  eomputed  to 
be  about  a  hundred  thousand  heads,  and,  at  one 
time,  ten  thousand  horses  ;  but  what  with  the  peste^ 
revolutionary  exactions,  and  skin  hunters,  compara- 
tively very  few  of  the  former  and  none  of  the  latter 
have  been  left. 

Our  iirst  occupation  on  arriving  at  the  Mata  was 
to  set  up  a  hasty  ranch  for  the  i)rotcction  of  our  ac- 
coutrements and  baggage,  a  structure  which  required 
little  labor  or  expense,  the  graceful  palms  aftording 
the  best  kind  of  thatch  for  the  roof,  and  the  surround- 
ing woods  sufficient  posts  and  rafters  for  the  frame- 
work. A  convenient  apartment  was  provided  in  it 
for  the  hammocks  of  our  Leader  and  worthy  Surgeon, 
while  the  rest  of  us  were  compelled  to  seek  accommo- 
dations among  the  trunks  and  branches  of  the  trees. 

These  arrangements  completed,  the  necessary  tim- 
ber was  next  cut  for  the  corrals  to  be  erected  for  en- 
closing the  coming  herds,  a  work  to  which  the  hunters 
devoted  themselves,  while  I  found  greater  attractions 
in  my  daily  explorations  through  the  tangled  forest. 
The  beautiful  palms  there  claimed  my  most  particular 
attention.  Apart  from  the  splendor  of  their  growth 
and  other  peculiarities  to  which  I  have  already  al- 
luded in  a  former  chapter,  they  are  sufficient  in  them- 
selves to  supply  many  of  the  domestic  and  economic 
wants  of  man  in  a  ])rimitive  state. 

I  also  observed  here  many  useful  species  of  the 
extensive  family  of  leguminous  plants,  such  as  the 
cahajistula^  (Cathartocarpus,)  of  which  there  Avcre 
several  varieties,  all  of  them  beautiful  timber  trees. 


IjOi  TKAVELS  A.ND   ADVENTURES. 

"whutic  j»(t(ls,  two  feet  long,  were  filled  with  a  blink 
guininy  Huli>tauce  possessing  very  medicinal  proper- 
ties. In  a  natural  fomi  it  aiiurds  one  of  the  mildest 
and  most  agreeable  cathartics.  Belonging  to  the 
same  family,  the  caro,  numafjuaj'o,  and  f>a7nan  aca- 
cias can  scarcely  be  rivalled  in  durability  by  any 
other  production  of  the  vegetable  world.  Their  j>ods 
also  contain  a  large  j>roi)ortion  of  a  sinjilar  gummy 
substance  which  cattle  devour  greedily,  and  which 
fattens  them  better  than  any  other  kind  of  fodder. 

Tlie  inahigiuta  ]>epj»er,  or  thmkey-bean,  (^'tv/rm 
fthrifufja,)  an  excellent  febrifuge  and  antispasmodic, 
also  grows  here  in  the  greatest  abundance.  Its  aro- 
matic seeds  arc  carefully  preserved  in  the  tobacco 
bladder  of  every  Llancro,  along  with  the  tubers  of  the 
snake  root,  (ArititoIocMa  huIlHn*a,)  a  plant  possessing 
the  same  virtues,  and  withal  the  best  antidote  again^t 
the  bite  of  serpents. 

Several  other  medicinal  ]ilants,  such  as  the  stately 
mora,  the  wild  60ur-soj»,  and  the  7fuij)un'tt\  are  also 
met  with  here  ;  the  last  owes  its  name  to  the  pecu- 
liar odor,  not  unlike  that  of  the  skunk,  which  jter- 
vades  the  whole  jilant,  rendering  it  any  thing  but 
accej)table  in  the  neighborhood  of  an  encampment. 

Of  wild  fniits  there  was  also  a  fine  array,  and 
among  them  the  most  delicious  of  all,  in  my  o])inion, 
is  the  jfianrrito,  (Anona  muricata.)  a  fruit  scarcely 
known  to  horticulture,  and  still  less  to  the  listless  in- 
liabitant  of  the  country  where  it  grows  in  wild  lux- 
uriance ;  as  no  one  tlicre  has  yet  thought  of  bringing 
it  under  cultivation.  Tliis  ])lant,  which  belongs  to 
the  same  family  as  do  several  of  the  most  celebrated 


PLANTS  AND  SNAKES.  205 

fruit  trees  of  the  tropics — the  various  kinds  of  custard 
apples  and  the  delicious  chcrimoyer — attains  a  height 
of  ten  feet,  and  at  the  season  of  maturity,  actually 
bends  to  the  ground  beneath  its  sweet  load.  Unfor- 
tunately it  all  ripens  at  once,  so  that  in  a  few  days 
the  whole  crop  disappears.  This  fruit,  like  its  con- 
gener the  sour-sop,  is  covered  with  soft  prickles.  The 
inside,  a  sweet  and  highly  aromatic  jmlp,  is  iillcd  with 
snuill  seeds,  which,  when  the  fruit  is  eaten  in  large 
quantities,  as  is  generally  the  case,  are  apt  to  produce 
dangerous  strictures.  The  whole  plant  is  exceedingly 
fragrant ;  and  by  rubbing  the  leaves  between  the 
hands,  they  emit  a  delightful  aroma,  not  unlike  that 
of  new  mown  hay. 

Another  pleasant  fruit,  that  I  here  met  also  for 
the  first  time,  was  the  wild  inadrona,  of  the  size  of  a 
lemon,  which  it  also  resembles  in  shape  and  color.  It 
is  filled  with  a  most  agreeable  sub-acid  pulp  ;  this 
envelops  three  or  four  large  nuts,  not  unlike  cacao- 
beans,  and  tastes  very  much  like  strawl)erries.  The 
tree  producing  this  delicious  fruit  attains  a  height  of 
twenty  feet.  The  foliage  is  very  dense,  with  coria- 
ceous leaves  ten  inches  long,  of  a  brilliant  green.  A 
thick  yellow  resin,  resembling  gamboge,  exudes  from 
every  part  of  the  tree  when  wounded  ;  but  whether  it 
has  been  foimd  useful  for  any  particular  purpose,  I 
was  unable  to  ascertain. 

Somewhat  similar  to  the  latter,  although  growing 
upon  a  plant  of  an  entirely  different  nature,  is  the 
caraiia,  or  monkey  cacao-bean,  a  soft  and  rather  in- 
sipid fruit,  the  production  of  a  vine,  which  monkeys 
devour  greedily. 


206  TEAVEUS  A.SiJ   AlAENTURES. 

Hy  far  tlic  lar«;i'8t  proportion  of  tlie  trees  were 
several  speeies  of  guamo»  (Inga  lucida)  and  others  of 
the  sauje  order  of  leguminous  ]>lantt^,  hearinj^  pods 
cijjht  or  ten  inehes  lonj; ;  these  are  filled  with  a  row 
of  black  heanft,  cnvt-loped  in  a  snowy  white  and  sweets 
i^h  i»ulp,  nio.st  ajrreeable  to  the  taste.  The  rij>ening 
season  of  this  mild  and  wholesome  fruit  was  just  eom- 
mencinj;,  and  evtry  day  we  gathered  and  eunsumeU 
(juuntities  of  it. 

Another  pod-bearing  tree  of  great  utility  j^roper 
to  that  region  is  the  aif/nrroho,  (Ilymenea  curbari!,) 
the  loeust  tree  of  the  New  World,  whieh  bears  athiek 
ligneous  ])od  containing  several  hard,  brown,  and 
rounded  beans.  These  are  surrounded  l>y  a  sweet  fari- 
naceous substance,  possessing  great  alimentary  pro]>- 
erties.  A  fragrant  resin  exu<les  from  the  pericarj»  of 
the  pods,  which,  on  being  burned,  yields  a  j>erfumc 
similar  to  the  odor  of  frankincense  combined  with 
that  of  balsam  of  Tohi. 

1  had  almost  forgotten  to  mention,  among  the 
agreeable  fruits  of  these  parts,  several  kinds  of  wild 
guavas,  from  the  tiny  Arrayan,  scarcely  distinguish- 
able among  the  tufts  of  grass  by  which  it  is  sur- 
rounded, to  the  beautiful  paujil  shrub,  bearing  in 
great  profusicm  quantities  of  brilliant  scarlet,  highly 
perfumed  and  acidulous  fruits.  Tlic  berry  of  the 
fonncr  exactly  ri'sembles  Jamaica  allspice  in  shape; 
is  quite  sweet,  and  possesses  in  a  high  degree  the  ex- 
quisite tlavor  and  aroma  of  the  myrtle  tribe,  to  whieh 
indeed  all  these  ]>lants  belong. 

(Jrcat  care  Mas  necessary  in  selecting  spits  for 
roasting  the  beef.   <'ii   m  <oiiiit    i.f  ■>   uM>^t   poisonous 


PLANTS   AND  SNAKES.  207 

shrub,  the  deadly  giiachamacd,  abounding  there.  It 
belongs  to  the  extensive  family  of  Apocincne  or  Dog- 
banes, whose  poisonous  qualities  are  known  all  over 
the  world.  So  virulent  is  this  poison,  that  meat 
roasted  on  spits  made  from  the  guachamacd,  absorbs 
sufhcient  poison  to  destroy  all  who  partake  of  it.  Tlie 
lazy  Indians  make  use  of  it  to  kill  without  trouble  the 
cranes  and  herons  on  the  borders  of  lagoons.  For 
this  they  procure  a  number  of  sardines,  besmear  them 
with  the  juice  of  the  plant,  and  spread  them  along 
the  ])laccs  frequented  by  those  birds.  The  moment 
one  of  them  seizes  the  fish,  and  before  it  is  fairly  swal- 
lowed, the  bird  drops  dead  ;  then  the  indolent  hunter, 
issuing  from  his  hiding-place,  cuts  ofl'  the  parts  aflfeet- 
ed  by  the  poison,  usually  the  head  and  neck,  and 
feels  no  scruple  in  eating  the  remainder. 

A  dreadful  case  of  poisoning  by  means  of  this 
plant  had  just  occurred  at  Kutrias,  soon  after  our  ar- 
rival on  tlie  Apure,  which  created  for  a  time  great 
excitement  even  amidst  that  scattered  jtopulation.  A 
woman  who  lived  with  a  man  in  the  vicinity  of  that 
town  became  jealous  of  the  attentions  he  bestowed 
upon  a  charming  neighbor  of  theirs,  and  determined 
to  avenge  herself,  but  in  some  manner  that  would  not 
excite  suspicion.  In  those  remote  regions  where  coro- 
ners and  chemists  are  unknown,  it  is  impossible  to 
detect  murder  except  where  marks  of  external  vio- 
lence are  visible.  Accordingly,  she  prepared  for  her 
lover  a  bowl  of  mamto,  a  favorite  beverage  of  the 
country,  made  of  Indian  com  boiled,  maslied  in  water, 
and  fermented  ;  in  this  she  soaked  chips  of  tlic  poison- 
ous plant  and  offered  it  to  him  with  smiling  grace. 


^ij^  TKAVELS   AND   ADVENTUIU>. 

Delighted  at  t^iglit  of  the  tempting'  bowl,  the  uhpup- 
pcctiiig  lover  invited  several  of  hi«j  iiei«:hl>or6 — anu>n<; 
tlicin  the  hated  rival — to  share  it  with  him.  The 
woman,  not  intending  to  destroy  any  but  lier  perfid- 
ious lover,  during  his  absence  j>repared  another  bowl, 
omitting  this  time  the  poison.  Lhinero  jiolitenees 
obliged  the  host,  however,  to  mix  his  portion  with 
the  others,  which  having  done,  he  invited  the  com- 
jiany  to  dip  their  calabash  cups  into  the  bowl.  Out 
of  eleven  persons  there  a.'^trcmbled,  among  them  sev- 
eral children,  not  one  c'^cajied  excejtt  the  wicked  per- 
petrator of  this  wliolesale  murder  ;  nor  even  the  don- 
keys and  fowl  of  the  household,  as  their  attentive 
master  had  thrown  them  the  remains  of  the  deadly 
mi.xture. 

Such  is  the  dread  in  which  the  Llancros  hold  this 
jtlant,  that  I  was  not  even  pennittt^l  to  preserve  the 
specimens  of  fruit  and  flowers  I  had  collected,  with 
the  object  of  ascertaining,  on  my  return  to  the  Val- 
leys, the  botanical  characters  of  the  species.  Tlicy 
almost  threatened  to  desert,  if  I  insisted  uj>on  carry- 
ing the  leaves  among  the  baggage. 

The  j)roj)ag:ition  of  this  j)lant  throughout  the 
Apure  appears  to  be  of  recent  origin,  none  of  the 
oldest  inhabitants  recollecting  to  have  met  with  it 
imtil  within  comj)nratively  a  short  period. 

Tlio  men  had  no  small  trouble  in  clearing  our 
camp  of  many  noxious  reptiles;  and  it  became  our 
ri'gular  aftcnionn  business  to  hunt  for  snakes.  "We 
succecdcnl  in  killing  a  great  number  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  ranch,  some  very  i>oisonous,  while  others  were 


PLANTS  AND  SNAKES.  209 

juite  harmless  ;  of  the  hitter  class  I  found  two  species 
>f  coral  snakes,  against  which  an  unjust  prejudice  ex- 
sts,  that  they  arc  among  the  most  poisonous.  Of  the 
'ormer,  the  viataeahallo  is  the  most  to  be  feared.  Al- 
hough  scarcely  larger  than  a  good-sized  earthworm, 
lis  bite  is  neverthek'ss  almost  instantaneously  I'atal  to 
lian  and  beast.  Unlike  his  other  sluggish  and  torjjid 
congeners,  this  little  snake  is  the  more  dangerous  be- 
.'ause  always  on  the  alert.  The  tramp  of  a  horse, 
3specially,  never  fails  in  rousing  them,  against  which 
loble  animal  they  evince  an  inveterate  rancor.  I  was 
:)nce  occupied  in  sketching  one  of  these  snakes,  which 
[  had  permitted  to  live  for  the  purpose,  and  I  observed 
:liat  whenever  a  horse  approached  us,  the  snake  rap- 
dly  turned  his  head  in  the  direction  of  the  sound, 
seeming  as  if  anxious  to  strike  the  animal  with  his 
angs  ;  but  as  I  had  fortunately  taken  the  precaution 
)f  disabling  him  by  partially  breaking  his  s])ine,  he 
.'ould  make  but  little  i)rogres3  toward  the  object  of 
lis  dislike. 

Tlie  tendinous  part  between  the  hoof  and  ankle- 
joint  of  the  horse  being  nearest  the  ground,  is  consc- 
pently  most  exposed  to  the  bite  of  the  matacahallo  / 
ind  although  the  distance  from  the  ankle  to  the  heart 
IS  very  great,  it  not  unfrequently  hap])ens  that  the 
inimal  drops  as  if  touched  by  the  electric  spark,  from 
w-hich  fact  I  infer  that  this  poison  acts  on  the  nervous 
system  as  well  as  on  the  blood.  Horned  cattle  and 
pigs  arc  fortunately  shielded  by  the  thickness  of  their 
skin  from  the  fangs  of  this  destroyer,  which  cannot 
penetrate  it.  Hence  this  snake  has  been  termed,  ^^a?" 
excellence^  matacaballo,  literally  horse-killer. 


21,^  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURBB. 


It  was  at  u;;c  time  cxtronuly  danjrcrous  to  drive 
horses  across  the  V»anks  of  tl^e^ie  t^avannas  where 
snakes  arc  always  most  ahumlant ;  their  niimhers, 
however,  liave  hecii  eonsiderahly  diminished  sinco 
the  immense  multijtlieatiun  of  piirs  in  those  re- 
gions. 

Horses  have  there  also  another  dani^crous  enemy- - 
a  great  liairy  spider  or  species  of  the  tarantula  ;  this 
inllicts  a  very  p<»ison<»ns  and  painful  sting  just  abovo 
the  hoof,  which  in  time  drops  olf.  although  it  is  never 
f«>llowed  liv  death. 

But  among  all  these  evil  en^itures,  there  is  none 
so  disgusting  or  so  dangerous  as  the  rattlesnake.  The 
virulence  of  its  ]>oison,  and  the  great  size  attained  hy 
some,  renders  them  the  terror  of  every  man  and  beast 
where  they  abound.  Fortunately  for  mankind,  they 
have  been  j>rovidcd  by  an  ever-watchful  Providence 
with  what  is  terme<l  a  rattle;  this  is  compose<l  of  a 
number  of  liorny  rings  ])laced  at  the  end  of  the  tail, 


PLANTS  AND  SNAKES.  211 

which,  on  being  shaken,  produce  a,  peculiar  sound, 
and  serve  as  warning.  It  is  said  that  Nature  every 
year  adds  one  of  these  rings,  thus  marking  the  age  of 
the  reptile.  From  its  loathsome  body  is  exhaled  a 
strong  odor,  somewhat  resembling  musk,  in  itself 
sufticient  to  warn  the  most  careless,  as  it  i^  per- 
ceptible at  the  distance  of  a  hundred  feet.  Tlie  head 
is  peculiarly  flat  and  broad,  and  the  eyes  sparkle  in 
the  darkness  like  specks  of  fire.  The  mouth  is  a 
ghastly  aperture,  whence  issues  a  black  and  forked 
tongue,  which  the  reptile  moves  incessantly  when 
irritated.  Two  long  fangs,  curved  inwardly,  project 
in  front  of  the  upper  jaw,  and  through  them  the 
fatal  venom  is  discharged.  The  poison  is  secreted 
from  two  glands  in  the  form  of  small  bags  at  the 
root  of  the  fangs,  admirably  adapted  for  the  pur- 
pose, being  hollow  inside  throughout  their  whole 
length,  and  by  their  pressure  against  the  glands  pro- 
duced by  the  act  of  biting,  the  liquid  is  ejected  into 
the  wound.  Fortunately,  this  snake  is  the  slowest  in 
its  motions,  and  the  most  torpid  of  its  kind,  otherwise 
the  mischief  done  by  them  would  be  much  greater, 
they  being  very  abundant  also  in  the  Llanos.  Their 
favorite  haunts  are  the  hollow  trunks  of  decayed  trees 
and  deep  fissures  in  the  ground.  Occasionally  they 
are  found  coiled  among  thick  clumps  of  grass,  which 
shelter  them  from  the  glaring  sun  ;  but  they  are 
always  ready  to  strike  any  intruder.  At  night  they 
is^ue  forth  in  rpiest  of  game,  returning  again  to  their 
hiding-places  before  sunrise. 

In   adiiition   to   the  foregoing,  there  arc  several 
other  kinds  in  the  Apure  ;  among  the  harmless  ones 


TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES. 


tlie  tiitfxi 


is  very  altundant  in  tlie  (<avunnn£,  from 


wliich  it  is  iiuined.  Suiia-  of  tlu's^u  uru  ten  feot  lon<:, 
aii*l  o((u>ionully  even  niort*.  Tlu'V  jrlide  over  tli» 
^roiMid  with  iistoiiiiihiiig  rajtidity,  niakinj^  all  vnrietiffi 
of  runtortiuns  with  tla-ir  bodies,  the  forward  ]>art  t»f 
which  they  keep  all  the  while  raised  in  a  vertical  j»o- 
sition.  These  t?nakes  are  very  useful,  as  they  dettrt»y 
all  the  poisonous  kjnds  they  encounter. 

The  beautiful  coral  snake,  with  alternate  rinps  of 
red,  black,  and  white,  is  occasionally  seen  in  the  vicin- 
ity of  ant-holes.  Most  ]>ersons  attribute  to  it  very 
])oisonou8  qualities ;  but  I  liave  exannned  its  mouth 
carefully  and  found  there  nr*  fanp;,  nor  any  of  the 
characteri>tii->  of  ju.isoiK.u 


j> 


^f^.: 


m 


\ 


PLANTS  AND  SNAKES.  213 

Til  the  same  catogorv  is  lanced  another  inoffensive 
reptile,  a  ceeilia,  enipliatieally  styled  culeh'a  de  dos 
cahezas,  or  two-headed  snake — so  named  on  account 
of  having  both  ends  of  its  body  of  ecpial  thiclcncps, 
while  the  eyes  arc  almost  invisible.  It  seems  the  con- 
necting link  between  snakes  and  earthworms,  partak- 
ing of  the  nature  of  both,  is  about  a  foot  long,  and 
rather  disproportionately  thick  for  its  length,  while 
its  body  is  covered  with  minute  scales.  As  this  snake 
has  the  power  of  moving  backward  or  forward  with 
equal  facility,  it  is  supposed  by  many  to  be  actually 
possessed  of  two  heads.  There  is  abundant  nourish- 
ment for  it  in  the  ant  nests  which  it  frequents,  but  it 
feeds  also  on  earthworms,  and  the  larvsc  of  insects, 
pursuing  them  with  unrelenting  perseverance  through 
the  ground.  Tlie  double  motion  of  this  reptile,  its 
great  muscular  powers  and  flexibility  enable  it  to 
penetrate  the  deepest  recesses  of  a  colony  of  ants,  and 
to  pierce  the  earth  with  wonderful  expedition  in 
search  of  prey. 

ANTIDOTES. 

Several  antidotes  are  recommended  for  the  venom- 
ous bite  of  snakes  ;  some  of  them  possess  real  alexi- 
pharmic  virtues,  as  the  raiz  de  mato^  to  which  I 
have  already  alluded  under  the  name  of  Aristolochia 
bulbosa,  and  the  gxiaco,  (Mikania  Guaco,)  a  compo- 
site plant  which  the  learned  Mutis  has  rendered  so 
celebrated  through  the  instrumentality  of  Humboldt ; 
the  others,  however,  are  nothing  more  than  supei'sti- 
tious  imaginings,  which  see  in  the  tooth  of  a  crocodile 
extracted  on  Good   Friday,  or  in  some  unmeaning 


014  TUA\LL--i  AND  ADVENTDBESw 

•jii.M.n  wliinpered  in  the  suflV'rcr'B  car,  greater  powers 
tliaii  in  all  the  resourees  of  ine<lieal  bcience.  Vet 
suth  is  the  leaning  of  the  Itenighted  ehildren  of  Na- 
ture in  tlici»e  regions  toward  the  8Ui>ernatiiral,  that 
they  always  give  the  preferenec  to  whatever  t^avors 
most  of  the  niiraeulo\is.  Somewhat  of  this  has  doubt- 
less arisen  from  the  mistaken  idea  that  all  snakes  are 
]ioisonous.  Thus  if  it  so  happen  that  the  ineantation 
is  whisi)ered  over  a  person  who  recovers,  having  been 
bitten  by  a  harndess  snake,  his  cure  is  of  course  at- 
tributed to  magic,  which  is  accordingly  j)roclaimed  a 
sovereign  remedy  for  all  similar  cases  in  future.  Saint 
l*aul,  as  1  have  already  mentioned,  i»ossesses  not  only 
the  ptjwer  of  arresting  the  fatal  spring  of  a  snake,  if 
invoked  in  time,  but  can  also  neutralize  the  poison, 
even  when  it  is  circulating  through  the  veins.  Not- 
MMthstanding  my  want  of  faith  in  the  intervention  of 
the  saint  in  question,  I  confess  myself  to  have  been 
on  an  occasion  extremely  ])U7.zled  by  one  of  these 
<  hcrishod  superstitions,  the  famous  Oracion  de  S<in 
J'ablo,  and  uji  to  this  period  have  not  been  able  to 
account  for  it  in  n  manner  satisfactory  to  my  common 
Bensc.  As  we  were  one  afternoon  driving  home  a 
hertl  of  cattle,  the  majordomo's  horse  was  bitten  by  a 
intitacnhdllo^  when  at  a  short  distance  from  the  ranch. 
Ilic  rider  observed  his  sudden  start,  and  at  once  men- 
tioned the  cause  there«»f.  The  ground,  overgrown 
with  grass,  was  diligently  searche<l,  and  the  snake  dis- 
covered and  killed  on  the  very  spot  pointed  out  by 
the  majordomo,  who  in  tho  mean  tinu*  had  hastened 
forward  with  his  h(»rse  to  the  ranch,  km>wing  that  the 
strength   of  tin-  p.M.r  animal   woidd   soon  give  way. 


PLANTS  AND  SNAKES.  215 

Scarcely  had  he  aliulitcd  wlieu  liis  liorsc,  covered  Mith 
a  coUl  sweat,  droi)i)ed  to  the  ground.  K  eurandero 
or  snake  doctor  iinaiediately  iireseiited  hiiuself  and 
connnenced  a  scries  of  incantations  over  tlie  prostrate 
animal,  which  it  was  supposed  would  soon  counter- 
act the  i)oison.  I  was  anxious  to  administer  sjiirits 
of  hartshorn,  a  well-authenticated  remedy  for  such 
cases,  but  the  Llaneros  o})posed  this  resolutely,  on  the 
ground  that  it  would  interfere  with  their  own.  The 
Ontdon  was  accordingly  whispered  in  the  horse's  ear 
and  the  patient  then  removed  to  a  convenient  pasture, 
where  he  could  lind  abundant  feed  if  fate  ever  restored 
his  appetite.  Here  he  was  left,  rolling  upon  the 
ground  and  moaning  piteously,  while  I  was  positively 
assured  by  the  men  that  in  the  course  of  two  hours,  at 
most,  he  would  be  conn)letely  restored,  and  my  scep- 
ticism confounded.  Singularly  enough,  the  remedy 
acted  in  this  case  lihe  a  real  charm  ;  at  the  appointed 
time  the  horse  started  to  his  feet  and  commenced 
browsing  the  grass  around  him  with  as  much  gusto 
as  if  he  had  experienced  no  ailment  whatsoever. 
"Whether  the  venom  of  the  snake  was  not,  in  this  in- 
stance, strong  enough  to  kill  the  horse ;  or,  what  is 
more  probable,  the  reptile's  fang  might  not  have  pen- 
etratcil  deep  enough,  are  questions  which  cannot  be 
dc(i(h'd,  but  shortly  afterward  the  sa^ne  horse,  a 
luautiful  but  wiUl  and  vicious  young  stallion,  came 
very  near  kicking  to  death  the  cuvandcro  who  restored 
him  to  health.     • 

The  Lhineros  are  not,  however,  the  only  peo]>]('  in 
the  country  who  have  faith  in  these  miracidous  cures. 
Tt  is  more  or  less  entertained  throughout  the  country 


•Jli;  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES. 

bv  per.-oiis  iiion*  enlightened  in  other  respects  tliaii 
thcv.  It  i.s  asserted  of  a  famous  curandt^ro  in  the 
VullevH  of  Amelia,  that  in  extreme  eases,  if  prevented 
from  going  in  i>erson  to  the  j>atient,  it  was  only  ncecs- 
Pary  to  send  his  hat !  IJy  jtlaeing  this  talisman  on 
the  injured  man's  head,  it  would  not  only  alTortl  im- 
mediate relief,  but  arrest  the  progress  of  the  venom 
until  the  owner  could  coin.-  liiniMlf  to  ]KTfcct  the 
<iire. 

Another  singular  ]>ra<t  ice  obtains  among  Llancros; 
it  is  that  of  inoculation  with  the  juice  of  certain  plants 
possessing  alexipharmic  virtues,  after  which  the  nutst 
poisonous  snakes  may  be  handleil  with  im]>unity.  It 
is  asserted,  moreover,  that  ctrraJos — as  individuals 
thus  inoculated  are  termed — arc  not  only  j^roof  against 
the  bite  of  these  reptiles,  l)ut  can  attract  them  around 
their  persons  by  merely  clapjiing  of  hands  or  whis- 
tling for  them  in  fieUls  where  they  abound.  Having 
never  witnessed  any  of  these  experinicnts,  I  will 
neither  undertake  to  uphold  the  truth  of  this  asi^er- 
tion,  nor  will  I  (picstion  its  veracity  ;  but  there  arc 
hundre<ls  of  reliable  per.<ons  in  the  country  who  will 
unhesitatingly  swear  to  its  ethcacy  ;  among  them,  is 
the  testimony  of  Dr.  Benites,  a  professional  gentleman 
who  has  i)ublished  the  result  of  his  experiments  in  a 
small  book  on  the  Alateria  Medica  of  the  country. 
AVith  the  view  of  ascertaining  the  alleged  proiH-rtics 
of  the  guaco  he  devoted  a  great  jwrtion  of  his  time 
while  at  La  Victoria  in  experimenting  with  various 
kinds  of  snakes  ;  from  him  I  quote  the  following  ]>as- 
bagc :    *'Thc  guaco  possesses  in  a   liigh  degree  the 


PLANTS  AND  SNAKES.  217 

faculty  of  preserving  man  and  animals  in  general 
from  the  terrible  and  fatal  eftects  of  the  bites  of  ser- 
pents. This  valuable  secret,  discovered  in  Bogota  by 
the  celebrated  naturalist,  Don  Celestino  Mutis,  in 
17SS,  remains  still  as  such  among  some  curanderos 
of  our  own  country,  who,  under  certain  mysterious 
forms,  and  availing  themselves  of  the  fangs  of  ser- 
pents, puncture  several  slight  incisions  in  certain 
parts  of  the  body,  which  they  fill  with  the  powdered 
leaves  of  the  guaco  previously  made  dry,  and  admin- 
ister the  same  internally  mixed  in  common  rum. 
This  property  of  the  guaco  is  so  reliable,  inoculation 
by  means  of  the  juice  such  as  was  practised  by  Mutis 
himself  so  well  authenticated,  and  the  facts  concern- 
ing it  so  well  attested,  that  there  cannot  longer  exist 
the  least  doubt  in  regard  to  its  efficacy.  I  wished  to 
convince  myself  Tty  actual  experiment,  and  can  testify 
that  in  a  thousand  trials  of  inoculation  practised  by 
myself  in  ditierent  ways  on  patients  whom  I  allowed 
to  be  bitten  by  various  kinds  of  snakes,  I  never  knew 
one  to  fail.  Suffice  it  to  say  that  the  principal  amuse- 
ment of  children  in  this  place  is  to  catch,  carry  about 
and  i)lay  with  snakes,  and  that  even  young  ladies 
keep  them  in  their  bosoms  or  coil  them  around  tlieir 
necks." 

It  ajipears,  nevertheless,  absolutely  necessary  to 
renew  the  inoculation  at  ditierent  epochs  of  a  man's 
life,  as  in  the  case  of  vaccination  it  loses  its  power 
after  a  time.  It  was  no  doubt  owing  to  his  neglect 
of  the  rule,  that  a  gentleman  in  the  town  of  Ocumarc 
some  years  ago  fell  a  victim  to  liis  blind  confidence 
in  this  sort  of  inoculation.  Don  X.  Ugarte  had  kept 
10 


318  TRAVKLS   AND    AUVESTCRES. 

a  rattlesnake  in  a  drawer  tlurini;  four  years  ;  with  it 
he  o((!i>ionally  nniuseil  hini.-«ell',  no  nu»re  harm  result- 
ing thenfroni  than  il' it  had  heen  a  kitten.  One  day 
on  returning  home  from  hi(«  rounds  in  the  ])lantation, 
he  felt  in  the  humor  of  playing  a  little  with  his  old 
pet,  and  accordingly  took  him  out  of  his  berth  and 
])laced  him  U]»on  the  writing  det?k  before  him.  One 
of  the  children  who  had  also  been  inoculated  happen- 
ing to  be  near,  the  father  suggested  that  he  sliouKl 
kiss  the  reptile  ;  to  this,  the  child  objected  very  de- 
cidedly ;  the  foolish  ]»arent,  however,  insi^ting,  the 
mother  inti-rfercd  and  begged  that  her  child  shouhl 
not  be  compelleil  to  tnuch  the  loathst»me  ereature  ; 
whereupon  the  father  <x<lainjed  :  "How  fool i^h  you 
are  1  I  will  ^how  you  how  it  kisses  me.  Now.  then, 
j»et.  give  me  a  kiss;"  and  so  saying,  he  leaned  for- 
ward toward  the  snake;  true  to  its  instincts,  the 
reptile  sprang  to  his  lips  and  implanted  such  a  kiK-- 
that  its  master  never  recovered  from  the  eflectg.  liotli 
fangs  of  the  snake  went  quite  through  his  njiper  lip, 
and  he  at  once  felt  himself  to  be  mortally  wounded. 
A  i>hysitian  was  sent  fv»r  witlumt  delay,  but  he  cx- 
jiircd  before  a.^^sistance  could  reach  him. 

The  guaco  is  employed,  morcovtr,  in  varinus  other 
disorders  of  the  system  with  great  su<-cess.  In  chronit 
rheumatism  it  is  an  invaluable  reme<ly  both  in  iKi 
form  of  pdultices  made  of  the  fresh  lcavt>,  <ir  by  sim- 
ply rubbing  the  j»art  affected  with  a  <lceo(ti<tn  of  the 
plant  in  spirits,  and  taking  internally  one  or  two 
ounces  of  the  expressed  juice,  morning  and  evening. 
Administered  in  the  latter  form  it  is  an  eHicoHou> 
riinc<lv  against  hydr««phubia,   if  given   immetliatelv 


PLANTS  AND  SNAKES. 


219 


after  the  person  has  been 
bitten  by  a  mad  dog.  Gen- 
eral Paez  was  tlius  saved, 
when  a  youth,  from  this 
dreadful  scourge  of  tropical 
countries  ;  he  has  neverthe- 
less retained  in  after  life 
some  evil  effects  of  the 
virus  still  in  his  system 
manifesting  itself  in  a  ten- 
dency to  severe  spasmodic 
affections,  especially  at 
sight  of  a  snake,  Avhich 
invariably  induces  violent 
convulsions. 

Next  to  the  guaco  in 
importance  as  an  alexiphar- 
mic,  may  be  classed  the 
raiz  de  maio,  including 
several  varieties  of  Aristo- 
lochias,  the  roots  of  which 
are  intensely  bitter.  As 
its  name  implies,  it  is  said 
to  afford  the  ?7ia(o — a  large 
sj)ecies  of  lizard — a  prompt 
antidote  against  the  bite 
of  his  old  antagonist,  the 
snake.  There  would  seem 
to  exist  some  ancient 
grudge  between  these  two 
reptiles,  many  persons  as- 
serting that  whenever  they 


220  TRAVELS   ANli    ADVENTURES. 

come  in  ni^ht  of  one  another,  they  instantly  rush  to  the 
attack,  the  mato  never  lailiiij;  to  overeoine  his  rival 
by  his  superiur  botiinical  ktiowlcdge ;  this,  ur  liis  in- 
Btiuct,  i»rumj)t8  him  tu  seek  the  jilunt,  and  swallowing 
Bome  of  the  leaves,  returns  recui»crated  to  the  fight.* 
To  the  facts  adduced  above,  1  now  have  the  pleas- 
ure of  adding  the  testimony  of  such  an  authority  as 
Gosse,  who  has  devoted  an  entire  chapter  of  his  truly 
romantic  book  t  to  the  consideration  of  a  subject 
"well  worthy  of  minute  invest  ijj^at  ion  by  able  and  un- 
jtnjutlieed  men  of  scienee,  willing  to  receive  unscien- 
lilic  information  and  suggestions,  in  various  j>arts  of  the 
world,  particularly  in  the  intertroj»ical  r»?gions  of  both 
hemispheres.'  Among  the  many  well-authenticated 
incidents  recorded  by  him,  I  select  the  following  as 
bearing  a  striking  similarity  to  the  one  just  mentioned  : 
"  Some  animals,  esi)eeially  those  which  prey  Uj)on 
serpents,  seem  to  be  proof  against  their  bites.  The 
ichneumons,  or  mangoustes  of  Africa  and  Asia,  have 
long  been  celebrated  for  their  immunity,  and  veritable 
stories  have  been  narrated  of  their  having  recourse  to 
some  herb,  when  bitten,  after  which  they  successfully 
renewed  the  attack.     Tercival,  in  his  account  of  Cey- 

•  Dr.  Lindley,  speaking  of  llio  propcrticji  of  Arietolocbias  in  gen- 
eral. Hod  more  especially  of  A.  Herpontaria — a  North  American  species 
— observes :  "  As  ils  name  imprus,  it  is  unci  as  an  antidote  to  serpent 
bites,  a  qiulity  in  which  several  other  ppeciea  participate,  among  which 
may  bo  imntioiied  A.  trilobatA,  a  Jam.iica  plant,  alw)  employed  as  a 
sudden  and  powerful  sudorific;  and  the  Cart.ipcna  A  ungiiicida.  concern- 
ing which  Ja(|uin  writon,  that  the  juice  of  the  rt>ot,  chewed  and  intro- 
duced into  the  mouth  of  a  serpent,  so  stupefies  it  that  it  may  for  a  long 
time  be  handled  with  impunity  ;  if  the  reptile  is  comp<'lled  to  swallow 
a  few  drops,  it  perishes  in  convulsions." — VrprtaU*  Kingdom. 

\  The  Romance  of  Natural  History — .*>econd  Series,  chap.  \x. 


PLANTS  AND  SNAKES.  221 

Ion,  relates  tliat  a  mangoustc  placed  in  a  close  room, 
where  a  venomous  serpent  was,  instead  of  darting  at 
it,  as  he  would  ordinarily  have  done,  ran  peeping 
about,  anxiously  seeking  some  way  of  escape  ;  but 
finding  none,  it  returned  to  its  master,  crept  into  his 
bosom,  and  could  by  no  means  be  persuaded  to  face  the 
snake.  When,  however,  both  were  removed  out  of  the 
house  into  the  open  field,  the  maugouste  instantly 
flew  at  the  serpent,  and  soon  destroyed  it.  After  the 
combat  the  little  quadruped  suddenly  disappeared  for 
a  few  minutes,  and  again  returned.  Percival  con- 
cludes, not  unreasonably,  that  during  its  absence  it 
had  found  the  antidotal  herb,  and  eaten  of  it.  The 
natives  state  that  the  maugouste  resorts  on  such  oc- 
casions to  the  Ophiorldza  miingos,  whose  root  is  re- 
puted a  specific  for  serpent-bites.  This  is  a  cincho- 
naceous  plant,  so  intensely  bitter  that  it  is  called  by 
the  Malays  by  a  name  which  signifies  earth-gall." 

How  wonderful  the  provisions  of  bountiful  Nature 
are  ;  and  still  more  singular  the  readiness  of  the  hu- 
man intellect,  whether  in  a  rude  or  a  cultivated  state, 
to  make  them  subservient  to  its  wants  !  The  most 
extraordinary  antidote  against  the  bite  of  serpents 
yet  within  my  knowledge,  is  the  one  employed  on  the 
coast  of  Cartagena,  not  the  "  earth-gall,"  which  they 
possess  of  the  bitterest  kind  in  Aristolochia  unguicida, 
but  the  gall  of  the  reptile  itself,  an  alcoholic  solution 
of  which,  administered  to  the  patient  in  small  doses, 
rubbing  the  wound  with  the  same,  or  with  spirits  of 
ammonia,  being  sufficient  to  counteract  the  virus  of 
the  most  deadly  serpents  of  that  region. 


CIIArTKK  XV 


TIG  En       8TOK1ES. 


On  tljc  Sfc'cuiil  iii«;ljt  from  our  arrival  at  the  Mata, 
just  as  inoj;t  ot'  our  party  in  tliiir  haimnocks  wore 
swinging  otf  into  drcamlaml,  the  ominous  cry  of  El 
Tlijrc  ! — the  titrer — was  heard  in  the  direction  of  tlic 
camp  fires,  where  a  few  of  the  men  still  linjjcred.  As 
if  lifted  by  a  gust  of  the  pampero,  even*  man  dropped 
from  his  aerial  euueh,  and  in  an  instant  the  whole 
camp  hccame  a  scene  of  the  wildest  eonfusion.  Fire- 
brands flew  in  every  direction,  by  the  uncertain  glare 
of  which  we  gained  occai^ional  glimpses  of  the  jaguar, 
for  such  was  the  intruder,  ]>rowling  near  us  like  a 
huge  cat.  The  horses  snorted  in  terror,  the  men 
shouted  vocifcn^usly,  while  our  Itrave  Monico  com- 
menced drumming  upon  liis  pots  and  kettles  as  if 
they  were  so  many  gongs,  with  which  in  his  capacity 
of  cook  he  summoned  us  to  dinner,  creating  such  an 
uproar  as  drowned  the  voices  of  men  and  beasts,  and 
was  lu»rrible  enough  to  frighten  away  a  legion  of 
jagiiars.  The  odor  of  the  savory  spits,  at  all  hours 
faithful   to  their  p<.»sts  around    the  camp  fires,  had 


TIGER  STORIES.  223 

doubtless  proved  the  magnet  of  attraction  to  his 
spotted  majesty,  who,  probably  disgusted  uith  the 
style  of  his  rece[)tion,  made  a  precipitate  retreat  to 
his  stronghold  in  the  forest,  growling  indignation  at 
our  want  of  hospitality. 

Although  among  the  natives  he  is  commonly 
known  l)y  the  name  of  the  tiger,  this  animal  is  act- 
ually the  jaguar  or  Felix  Onza  of  naturalists,  no  real 
tigers  existing  in  any  part  of  America.  It  neverthe- 
less exerts  the  same  tyranny  over  other  animals  as 
does  tlie  tiger  or  leopard  in  the  hot  regions  of  the  Old 
World,  difleriug  from  its  congener  principally  in  the 
form  of  the  marks  upon  his  skin,  which  in  the  jaguar 
of  America  are  rounded  or  in  rings,  therein  unlike  the 
long  strii)es  of  the  Bengal  tiger.  In  another  species 
common  to  the  forests  of  Guayana,  the  skin  is  nearly 
black,  the  spots  being  invisible  except  in  the  broad 
sunlight.  This  is  considered  the  most  sanguinary  and 
ferocious.  Some  jaguars  attain  a  great  size,  measur- 
ing seven  feet  from  the  nose  to  the  tail.  They  are 
sufficiently  powerful  to  kill  an  ox  or  horse  and  drag 
them  off  over  the  highest  fences. 

When  the  excitement  occasioned  by  the  intrusion 
of  the  nocturnal  thief  had  subsided,  few  of  us  were 
inclined  for  sleep  ;  several  of  our  men,  therefore,  who 
had  been  at  dilTercnt  times  active  participators  in 
similar  adventures,  volunteered  entertaining  us  for 
the  remainder  of  the  night  Avith  some  interesting 
stories  conceniing  this  lord  of  South  American  for- 
ests. From  them  I  gathered  many  useful  facts  re- 
specting his  habits  and  disposition,  which  I  thall 
recount  as  nearly  as  possible  verbatim. 


224  TKA\i:i..s    AM>    ADVKNTIKIIS. 

AltluiU^li,  jarhnp.s,  tlie  most  powerful  among  wiKl 
bcnsts  ofthiti  contiiient,  the  jaguar  is  hy  no  iiienns  as 
tL-rriMu  as  iniglit  l»e  t^upposctl  I'roin  the  ri'iiown  of  his 
j)ro\vcss.  Occasionally  when  hanl  pressed  by  hunger 
he  ventures  witliin  the  j»recincts  of  man,  robbing  the 
corrals  of  the  farmhouse  of  their  defenceless  inmates. 
Many  instances  are  also  related  nf  his  having  attacked 
and  carried  oti'  a  solitary  traveller  to  his  lair  in  the 
Woods  ;  but  he  usually  evinces  the  ])rofoundest  respect 
for  man  uidess  driven  to  extremities,  when  he  has 
been  known  to  set  at  defiance  the  combined  efforts  of 
a  host  of  men  and  dogs.  "When  thus,  by  a  too  inti- 
mate acquaintance  with  the  peoj>le  and  flocks  of  some 
])articular  community,  lie  has  gone  so  far  as  to  levy 
blackmail  upon  them,  the  aj»pellation  of  aha  do — as  in 
the  case  of  the  crocodile — is  given  to  the  jaguar.  An 
animal  of  this  descrij)tion  is  said  to  possess  wonderful 
daring  and  instinct,  making  him  by  far  the  most  dan- 
gerous of  the  class,  attacking  nftt  only  tame  animals 
in  the  corrals,  but  even  individuals  are  frequently  as- 
6ailed  and  devoured  by  him.  It  is  said  also  that  when 
he  has  once  tasted  human  bl(X>d,  he  becomes  insatiable 
in  his  eagerness  to  ])roc,ure  this  luxury.  Tlicy  arc  then 
so  dangerous,  that  the  owners  of  cattle  farms  usually 
call  a  meeting  of  all  the  Imhros  in  the  vicinity,  cai>a- 
ble  of  handling  lazo  or  lance — fireanns  being  rarely 
used  in  exi»editions  of  this  kind — and  with  the  assist- 
ance of  a  ]iack  of  well-trained  hounds  of  a  peculiar 
breed,  called  tigreros  in  consequence,  they  surround 
the  wood  sup])osc<l  to  liarbor  the  tiger,  and  beating 
carefully  about  the  jungle,  drive  him  out  into  the  open 
plain,  where  men  on  horseback  are  stationed  v«  -i.lv  t.. 


TIGER  STORIES.  225 

lazo  tlie  gfiiiic  as  it  breaks  cover.  To  ensure  success, 
it  is  only  requisite  tluit  the  liorses  be  steady  and  well 
trained  to  the  sport ;  and  as  the  tiger,  conscious  of 
his  danger,  frequently  refuses  to  quit  the  jungle,  a 
number  of  daring  matadors  arc  also  needed  to  drive 
him  out  or  attack  him  in  his  lair,  assisted  in  this  by 
the  dogs,  which,  by  harassing  him  on  all  sides,  divert 
him  from  the  assailants. 

Jaguars  were  at  one  time  so  numerous  in  the 
Llanos,  that  their  ravages  upon  the  calves  and  young 
foals  were  truly  frightful.  This  circumstance,  in  ad- 
dition to  the  value  attached  in  other  countries  to 
their  beautiful  skins,  have  contributed  to  reduce  the 
numbers  very  considerably,  as  whenever  they  make 
their  ai)pearancc  they  are  eagerly  pursued. 

In  its  wild  state  the  jaguar  is  an  exceedingly  beau- 
tiful animal ;  his  motions  particularly  easy  and  grace- 
ful, and  possessing  wonderful  agility  in  bounding 
among  the  trees  and  tall  grass  of  the  savannas. 
When  watching  for  prey,  he  generally  crouches  upon 
the  groimd,  the  fore  paws  stretched  out,  resting  his 
head  between  them  in  a  manner  very  similar  to  that 
of  the  domestic  cat ;  and  as  he  climbs  trees  with  a 
facility  almost  equal  to  that  of  monkeys,  these  are  in 
exceeding  dread  of  him  on  that  account. 

The  haunts  usually  preferred  by  the  jaguar  appear 
to  be  swampy  borders  of  marshes  and  lagoons  over- 
grown with  reeds  and  wild  plantain,  where  they  are 
sure  of  finding  plenty  of  game.  Water  hogs  or  capy- 
varas  especially,  are  easy  prey,  as  they  cannot  move 
except  in  short  jumps.  It  is  asserted  that  where  these 
animals  abound,  there  is  little  to  be  feared  from  the 
10* 


226  THAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES. 

jaguar,  wliich  always  prefers  the  wild  animals  of  the 
field  for  food,  bccoinin^^  bolder  and  more  dangerous 
to  man  in  jtroportion  luj  these  disai)j>ear. 

My  earliest  recollcetion  of  the  jagmir  dates  from 
the  time  when  the  famous  town  of  Aehaguas  was 
head-quarters  for  the  j>atriot  army  commanded  by 
my  father.  I  was  a  little  fellow  not  more  than  three 
years  of  age,  when  a  foraging  party  fell  in  with  a 
tigress  and  her  eub ;  the  latter  they  secured  and 
brought  to  Aehaguas  after  a  desi)eratc  struggle  with 
the  mother.  The  extreme  beauty  and  youth  of  the 
caj)tive  soon  gained  the  sym]>athies  and  favor  of  a 
host  of  admirers,  especially  those  of  the  female  de- 
partment, in  the  household  of  Coh)nel  Mujica,  who 
purchased  it  and  consigned  it  to  their  care.  Under 
their  special  protection  and  good  treatment  it  quickly 
grew  strong  enough  to  take  part  in  all  sfjuabblcs 
among  the  dogs  and  cats  of  the  family,  which  an- 
imals always  form  a  prominent  feature  in  all  well- 
regulated  Llanero  establishments.  At  first  the  new 
pet  was  allowed  the  entire  freedom  of  the  premises, 
associating  very  readily  with  every  stranger  who  vis- 
ited the  house,  and  evincing  none  of  the  disagreeable 
traits  ascribed  to  these  animals.  I,  who  participated 
in  all  its  juvenile  antics,  and  who  supi>osed  it  to  be 
only  a  large  cat,  very  soon  became  its  favorite  play- 
mate, until  on  one  occasion  it  carried  its  pranks  so 
far  as  to  throw  mc  down,  at  the  same  time  tearing 
my  clothing  to  rags  with  its  claws.  From  this  mo- 
ment it  was  considered  cxpe<iicnt  to  chain  up  my 
])layfellow,  and  accordingly  he  was  secured  to  a  pillar 


TIGER  STORIES  227 

in  the  corridor  of  the  house.  It  is  rehited  of  this  fa- 
vorite, that  having  afterward  broken  its  chain,  it 
speedily  found  the  way  to  the  poultry  yard  where  the 
Colonel  kept  his  game  chickens,  not  one  of  which  was 
left  to  fight  its  battles  over.  For  this  unpardonable 
breach  of  discipline  the  young  tiger  received  so  sound 
a  castigation  as  to  cripple  the  poor  fellow  for  life. 

Numberless  are  the  tricks  recorded  of  the  lame 
tiger  of  Colonel  Mujica,  they  for  a  time  constituting 
the  principal  amusement  of  those  of  the  army  who 
were  in  the  habit  of  frequenting  the  Colonel's  quarters 
to  while  away  their  idle  hours  at  the  favorite  game 
of  monte.  "What  finally  became  of  my  uncouth  play- 
fellow, I  am  unable  to  state ;  the  probability  is  that 
he,  as  well  as  most  of  the  brave  champions  of  that 
memorable  epoch,  is  dead  ;  at  all  events,  they  are 
buried  ....  in  the  dust  of  the  past. 

In  a  solitary  ranch,  not  far  from  San  Jaime,  there 
once  lived  a  poor  widow,  who,  out  of  compassion  for 
a  young  cub  which  had  been  picked  up  by  some  va- 
queros  undertook  to  raise  it  with  the  milk  of  her  own 
goats,  sheltering  it  at  night  from  the  damp  under  the 
folds  of  her  bed,  covering  and  treating  the  foundling 
with  as  much  affection  as  though  it  were  her  child. 
In  return,  tlie  little  fellow  became  so  attached  to  its 
adopted  mother,  that  it  could  not  endure  a  moment's 
separation  from  her,  and  would  lie  like  a  cat  by  the 
fireside  while  she  devoted  herself  to  the  occupations 
of  the  kitchen.  As  it  grew  older  and  stronger,  the 
woman's  slender  stock  of  goats  was  rapidly  dimin- 
ished by  its  repeated  depredations ;  it  was  therefore 


228  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES. 

deemed  pnulnit  to  jrive  it  widor  range  than  tlie 
widow V  little  lurni-yard,  and  it  was  encouraged  to 
seek  for  pmie  in  the  neighboring  woods.  AVhenever 
siucis.-lul  in  these  excursions,  the  intelligent  creature 
invariaiily  hrouglit  some  home,  and  \\ith  seeming 
pride  laid  it  at  the  leet  of  its  heiiefaetrens.  On  one 
occasion,  some  of  her  neighbors  having  come  to  pass 
the  day  with  her,  she  thought  that  as  game  wai>  j)lcn- 
tifnl  and  easily  obtained,  she  would  spare  Puch  of  her 
goats  as  had  thus  far  escaped  the  teeth  of  her  favorite, 
and,  instead,  j)rocurc  with  its  assistance  a  supjily  of 
venison  with  which  to  treat  her  guests.  Accordingly, 
leaving  the  hut  in  their  charge,  she  and  her  cthcicnt 
hunter  started  for  the  woods,  proposing  to  be  back  in 
time  to  cook  the  dinner ;  but  to  the  astonishment  of 
her  vi.'iitors,  the  dinner-hour  arrived,  then  the  night, 
but  no  tidings  of  the  hunters;  and  U]>  to  this  time,  I 
believe,  nothing  has  been  heard  about  eitlicr  f»f  the 
former  tenants  of  the  solitary  ranch,  although  it  is 
Lot  dillicult  to  imagine  the  poor  widow's  fate. 

AVe  had  once  in  our  em]»loy  a  stout  and  jntwcrfnl 
sambo,  who  on  account  of  his  name — Bolivar — and 
his  great  muscular  development,  had  received  the 
sobriquet  of  Bolivote,  or  big  Bolivar.  Great  was  his 
jnide  in  possessing  not  only  the  same  patronymic  as 
the  ilistinguished  General  of  his  name,  but  also  some 
deep  scars  on  his  right  arm,  intlicted  by  the  claws  <»f 
a  jaguar,  which  he  impn»vcd  every  opportunity  of 
displaying. 

Bolivote  had  been  riding  hard  during  a  whole 
day,  and  feeling  rather  weary,  sought   repose  under 


TIGER  STORIES.  229 

the  shade  of  a  chimp  of  palm  trees,  a^owiiiii;  his  liorse 
meanwhile  to  crop  the  <jjrass  near  hy.  lie  had  lain 
down  at  the  foot  of  a  palm,  and  almost  fallen  asleep, 
■when  he  "was  roused  hy  a  rustling  of  the  leaves  over- 
head, and  lookiuf;^  up  to  ascertain  the  cause,  heheld 
with  astonishment  a  large  jaguar  in  the  act  of  spring- 
ing upon  him.  He  started  to  his  feet,  but  was  within 
the  tiger's  grasp  ere  he  could  unshcath  his  sword. 
"Without  losing  a  moment  he  plunged  his  linger  into 
one  of  the  fiery  eyeballs  glaring  upon  him,  and  suc- 
ceeded in  forcing  it  from  its  socket.  The  pain  thus 
inflicted  "was  so  acute,  that  the  tiger  retreated  with 
fearful  yells ;  yet  not  before  he  had  mangled  with 
teeth  and  claws  the  sturdy  arm  which  had  punished 
him  so  severely. 

During  our  j(nirncy  across  the  pampas,  wc  were 
shown  the  spot  where  not  long  before  a  jaguar  had 
attacked  a  woman.  Her  preservation,  also,  was  due 
to  presence  of  mind,  and  to  the  fact  of  being  armed 
with  a  machete  or  cutlass,  with  which  she  had  in- 
tended cutting  a  load  of  wood  for  domestic  uses. 
The  wood  being  near  at  hand,  she  was  in  the  daily 
habit  of  fearlessly  traversing  the  plain  alone.  On 
one  occasion  slie  went  al  monte^  to  the  fields,  as  they 
say  there,  with  the  intention  of  collecting  her  usual 
load  of  fagots.  No  sooner  did  she  commence  break- 
ing the  sticks,  than  a  deep  rumbling  growl  which 
seemed  to  shake  the  ground  beneath  her  feet,  ahnost 
paralyzed  her  movements.  Although  the  sound  was 
somewhat  familiar,  yet  she  never  before  had  heard  it 
so  near  at  hand,  and  she  was  therefore  instantly  con- 


230  TRAVELS  AND  ADVESTURE8. 

gcioiig  of  litr  j>t'rili»U8  situation.  Knowing  that  an 
attempt  at  j)rLMi|»itatc  llijrht  would  only  contribute  to 
increase  the  anj;er  of  the  tiger,  she  decided  accord- 
ingly upon  concealing  herself  and  remaining  perfectly 
<|uiet  behind  a  largi-  tree.  \'ain  endeavor  I  in  a  few 
moments  a  large  jaguar  glided  from  the  tangleil  jun- 
gle and  stood  before  the  territicd  woman,  his  ey»  - 
shooting  iire,  liis  open  mouth  jmrched  with  thirst  of 
bloo<l.  At  the  dread  sight  she  gave  liersclf  up  for 
lost,  and  began  reciting  aloud  a  i)rayer  to  her  patron 
saint,  which  the  tiger  answered  with  another  fearful 
roar.  The  jaguar  then  commenced  tearing  up  the 
roots  of  the  nearest  tree,  looking  the  while  like  a  huge 
cat  sharpening  his  claws.  Then  gradually  approach- 
ing the  woman's  hiding-place  until  within  a  few  yards, 
with  a  bound  he  cleared  the  sj»ace  separating  them, 
and  alighted  at  the  foot  of  the  tree  behind  which  she 
was  sheltered.  "Without  a  moment's  loss,  the  w«>man 
aimed  a  blow  with  her  mach(h\  severing  one  of  the 
paws  which  grasped  the  tree.  This  partly  disabling 
him,  he  retreated  a  few  ]»aces  ;  but  soon  retuniing  to 
the  attack,  received  a  second  bloM-,  this  time  on  his 
head,  with  such  good  effect  that  he  fell  stunned  upon 
the  ground.  It  is  needless  to  add  that  our  heroine 
did  not  wait  to  see  what  might  have  been  the  final 
result  of  this  blow,  but  springing  from  her  hiding- 
place,  she  so  belabored  him  with  her  marJut^  as  to 
completely  spoil  his  skin  for  marketable  ]>urpose,'s. 

Among  the  troo]»  of  idlers  and  adventurers  always 
following  the  camp,  we  were  favored  at  Mata  Gonla 
with  the  company  «»f  a  famous  stork'  teller  of  the 


TIGER  STORIES.  231 

Apnre,  wlio,  in  wonderful  encounters  with  wild 
beubts,  and  marvellous  adventures,  might  almost 
rival  the  celebrated  Baron  Munchausen,  or  even  the 
saih)r  of  Arabian  Kights  celebrity.  Ilis  real  name 
was  B.  ;  but  owing  to  his  diminutive  stature  and 
cunning,  he  had  been  honored  Mith  the  familiar  ap- 
j>cllation  of  Tie  Conejo*  Indeed,  so  small  was  he, 
that  if  we  credit  his  statement,  he  was  often  mistaken 
for  his  own  baby,  usurping  its  place  in  the  cradle  for 
the  purpose  of  enjoying  the  kisses  and  other  petites 
caresses  usually  lavished  by  the  female  sex  upon  these 
tender  innocents.  Among  the  various  incidents  of 
his  eventful  life,  he  had,  as  a  matter  of  course,  some- 
thing to  say  concerning  tigers. 

"  Once  upon  a  time,"  said  our  humorous  compan- 
ion, "  I  was  by  the  banks  of  the  river  Uribante,  and 
there  had  an  opi^ortunity  of  cheating  T'lo  Tigre  in 
his  endeavors  to  make  mince  meat  of  my  humble 
self.  Retirrning  one  day  from  a  successful  fishing 
excursion,  I  was  enjoying  my  usual  siesta  when  JEl 
Tio  made  up  his  mind,  as  it  seemed,  to  pay  me  an 
unexpected  visit,  doubtless  with  the  intention  of  rob- 
bing me  of  the  products  of  my  industry,  which  I  had 
dressed  and  salted  a  few  minutes  before.  Happily  I 
have  for  obvious  reasons  accustomed  my  eyes  to 
keep  alternate  watch  when  camping  out  alone,  as  was 
the  case  in  this  instance,  so  that  if  approached  by  any 
evil-disposed  individual,  I  am  always  able  to  avoid 

•  T,o  Tirrre  and  Tto  Cowjo — Uncle  Ti^^cr  and  Undo  Rabl)it.  These 
arc  tlie  heroes  of  endU's.-*  adventures,  the  mother's  never-failing  source  of 
amu.-»ement  to  her  children,  supposed  to  have  taken  place  in  the  woods 
of  Venezuela, 


232  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES. 

danj^iT  tliri»u:;li  the  wntfli fulness  of  the  one  on  duty  ; 
when  this  sentinel  beeonies  weary,  1  allow  it  to  sleep 
and  rouse  itij  fellow. 

"  Well,  SeiloreSy  as  I  have  said  already,  one  of  my 
watchmen  observing  the  tiger  coming  toward  me,  I 
sprang  from  my  hammock  with  the  intention  of  giv- 
ing him  a  warm  reception  ;  hut,  luckily  for  the 
8|>otted  vagahdud,  my  ctwhillo,  which  is  always  by 
my  side,  was  left  forgotten  among  the  hcaj)  of  fish  I 
had  been  dressing.  Thus  cut  off  from  my  only  means 
of  defence,  and  observing  near  by  an  immense  gourd 
of  a  size  such  luj  is  rarely  seen  in  these  part.«<,  I  slipped 
into  it  just  when  Tio  Tifjre  thought  he  had  me." 

The  narrative  was  here  interrupted  by  a  sceptical 
individual  from  the  audience  insisting  uj>on  being  en- 
lightened as  to  the  precise  dimensions  of  that  gourd  ; 
the  reply  was,  "  Why,  Sirs,  here  is  nothing  extraor- 
dinary. 1  have  seen  squashes  at  the  foot  of  the  Cor- 
dilleras, each  of  which  would  1)C  a  load  s"»ifficient  for 
a  bongo.  I  once  lost  a  jiack  of  mules  during  the 
night,  and  after  searching  for  them  around  the  base 
of  what  1  su]>posed  a  hillock,  I  found  the  sagacious 
animals  inside  one  of  these  squashes — for  such  was 
the  seeming  hillock — su])ping  at  leisure  on  the  succu- 
lent pulj),  having  gnawed  for  themselves  a  passage  to 
the  interior.  But  to  return  to  my  story.  The  tiger, 
enraged  at  my  sudden  disappearance,  commenced  a 
deliberate  attack  with  teeth  and  claws  upon  the  tough 
and  .slii)pery  shell,  with  no  other  result  than  that  <if 
rolling  the  gourd  with  me  in  it  further  from  him. 

"  It  was  hugely  amusing  to  watch  from  my  strong- 
hi»ld   the  tactics  of  mv   assailant ;    at  one  moment 


TIGER  STORIES.  233 

crouclied  a  short  distance  oft'  upon  the  ground,  lie 
wouKl  ^vatc•ll  the  mysterious  object  much  as  a  cat 
watches  a  mouse  ;  tlieu  with  a  sudden  spring  pounced 
again  upon  the  gourd,  thus  causing  it  to  roll  before 
liim  like  a  ball.  My  only  fear  was,  that  the  tiger  in 
one  of  these  furious  onsets  might  precipitate  me  into 
the  stream  below.  I  was  not  then  aware  that  water 
in  deep  rivers  reaches  no  lower  than  the  base  of  their 
steep  banks,  which  act  as  support  for  the  whole  body 
of  water  above,  thus  leaving  a  clear  expanse  mider- 
neath  and  the  bed  of  the  river  entirely  dry,  a  remark- 
able tact  which  I  discovered  on  another  occasion 
when  diving  in  the  Orinoco  for  a  lost  treasure  belong- 
ing to  the  monks. 

"  Tliat  which  I  feared  at  last  came  to  pass.  The 
gourd,  pushed  by  the  tiger,  fell  spinning  into  the 
M-ater,  and  I  found  myself  sailing  down  the  stream 
escorted  by  a  band  of  hungry  crocodiles,  who 
watched  mc  with  eager  eyes  and  open  jaws,  until 
my  patron  saint  in  the  form  of  a  humane  porpoise 
came  to  my  assistance,  frightened  off  the  ngly 
wretches,  and  receiving  me  on  his  back,  landed  me 
in  safety  on  a  desert  shore,  where,  a?ni(/os,  you  will 
have  to  leave  me  for  the  present,  as  it  is  almost  morn- 
iiig,  and  we  must  sleep  an  hour  or  two  before  starting 
for  the  liochoy 

TUE  rAXTIIER-TIGER. 

Althougli  principally  a  sojourner  in  the  more  ele- 
vated parts  of  the  country,  the  panther  is  occasion- 
ally seen  descending  toward  the  plains  in  search  of 


234  TUAVELS  AND   ADVENTURES. 

tlic  ftlnnnlant  fare  of  the  pampas.  He  rescmbleij  the 
ju^uar  in  niuny  respec-tj?,  and  is  called  in  consctpieme, 
tiijre  (I*;  tterrania,  or  inouiitaiii  ti«rer.  He  is,  however, 
easily  distinfn»i'''hed  from  the  former  by  the  6haj>e  of 
his  head,  whieh  in  the  jianther  is  more  acute  toward 
the  snout,  while  the  sjiots  on  his  skin  are  smaller  and 
more  elosely  set. 

llie  panther  is  hy  far  the  ]>older  and  more  san- 
guinary of  the  two  ;  he  frequents  the  mountain  passes, 
waylaying  stray  animals  and  solitary  travellers;  and 
there  are  many  eases  on  record  in  which  he  has  dis- 
played his  bloodthirsty  projtensities  by  boldly  seeking 
food  even  in  the  very  haunts  of  man. 

Some  of  the  mountain  districts  of  Venezuela  arc 
80  infested  with  them,  that  few  tnivellers  ever  ven- 
ture to  journey  alone  there  ;  as,  for  instance,  the  tnon- 
tana  (h'  Caj»aya,  east  of  Caracals,  and  the  C'erro  de 
Aroa  to  the  west,  both  famed  for  the  number  and 
boldness  of  these  animals.  Under  cover  of  the  dense 
forests  with  which  those  mountains  are  clothed  to  the 
very  summit,  tlicy  lie  in  wait.  Not  long  since,  a 
traveller  from  the  village  of  Aroa,  finding  the  dis- 
tance gi'cater  than  he  had  anticijjated,  was  comiK'Ued 
to  pass  the  night  in  the  forest.  Fearing  the  panthers, 
lie  slung  his  hammock  between  two  ]»alm  trees  as 
high  as  possible  from  the  ground,  hoping  doubtless 
thereby  to  escape  them,  liut  his  ]irecaution8  ]>rove<l 
of  no  avail  ;  the  poor  traveller  fell  a  ]»rey  to  one  of 
these  sanguinary  beasts.  A  few  days  after,  a  party 
of  muleteers  ]>assing  along  the  same  route,  found  on 
the  spot  M-here  the  sad  tragedy  had  been  enacted, 
evidence    of    the    bloody    a.'^sault.      Deep    furrows 


TIGER  STORIES.  235 

ploughed  in  the  ground  between  the  palm  trees, 
jhowed  that  the  panther  must  have  made  frequent 
md  tremendous  leaps  to  reach  the  unfortunate  travel- 
er ;  but  with  the  exception  of  the  torn  hammock, 
:here  remained  no  vestige  of  the  victim. 

My  first  vacation  trip  from  the  terrors  of  a  South 
American  school  and  the  angry  visage  of  a  harsh  ])re- 
;eptor,  is  still  fresh  in  my  mind,  as  is  also  the  fright 
L  received  upon  the  road  from  an  imaginary  panther 
vhile  endeavoring  to  reach  before  daylight  the  near- 
'st  inn  upon  the  route. 

The  road  from  the  capital  to  the  Valleys  of  i\ra- 
jua — our  destination — lies  for  the  most  part  over  a 
ligh  ridge  of  mountains  with  precipitous  sides,  inter- 
persed  here  and  there  with  deep  ravines  and  almost 
mpenetrablc  thickets  of  forest  trees,  fit  lurking-places 
or  wild  beasts  and  banditti.  The  extreme  steepness 
►f  the  road  renders  the  aid  of  mules,  or  horses  of  su- 
)erior  mettle,  imperative,  and  for  this  exigency  our 
ittentive  guides  had  well  provided  before  leaving 
Caracas. 

The  party  was  principally  composed  of  young  gen- 
lemen  and  their  attendants,  all  like  myself  bound  to 
he  fertile  regions  of  Aragua,  where  we  purposed  pass- 
ng  the  holidays  with  our  families ;  and  a  wilder  set 
if  madcaps  it  would  have  been  difficult  to  find, 
ilvery  moment  witnessed  a  nudicious  trick,  some- 
imes  tickling  the  mules  under  the  cruppers  with 
rliips,  until,  worried  into  frenzy,  they  plunged  fear- 
ully  along  the  road,  placing  us  in  danger  of  being 
lurled  into  eternity  through  the  yaw'niug  chasms  be- 


236  TRAVEi^  AND  advt:xtures. 

ncath.  Sometimes  jerkinfj  the  tail  of  a  neighbor's 
mule,  ('!Uisiii«;  tlie  aiiiiiiul  to  whirl  t>o  vioh-ntlv  as  to 
almost  (lestrt»y  its  hahmce.  Occiihionally  some  of  the 
l>arty  mi«jht  he  seen  wramhlin«;  up  the  rujrpid  side 
of  a  mountain  after  hri{;ht  colored  insects  or  wild 
berries.  At  lenjrth,  the  steejtness  of  the  ascent  no 
lonjjer  permitting  the  continuance  of  our  pranks,  the 
guides  entertained  us  with  frightful  stories  of  a  tiger 
said  to  lurk  in  these  mountains ;  but  chiefly  with  ac- 
counts of  horrid  murders  ]»erpetrated  at  various  points 
along  our  route,  which,  judging  from  the  many  crost^ea 
and  stone  mounds  raised  to  the  victims  by  the  ]>iety 
of  wayfarers,  must  have  been  truly  appalling  in  num- 
ber. In  those  ])arts  it  is  customary  to  mark  the  sjntt 
where  a  crime  of  the  kind  has  been  conniiitted,  with 
a  wooden  cross,  at  whose  foot  every  passer-by  casts 
a  stone,  muttering  at  the  same  time  a  jirayer  for  the 
repose  of  the  unshrivcn  soul.  One  of  thei>e  memorials 
was  erected  to  a  ]ioor  fellow,  whose  throat  had  been 
cut  and  body  frigiitfully  mutilated  for  a  new  j)oncho 
and  a  few  reals.  At  another,  a  tiger  had  seized  a 
wearied  jioultry  carrier  im]»rudently  asleep  by  the 
side  of  his  coop,  and  devoured  him  and  his  chickens. 
In  an(tther  instance,  the  tiger  appeare<l  suddenly 
among  a  group  of  muleteers  (piietly  refreshing  them- 
selves by  the  murmuring  waters  of  a  mountain  stream, 
and  after  scattering  the  atfrighted  gn>up,  helped  him- 
self to  their  repast. 

Tliese  stories,  told  with  great  vivacity  and  much 
embellishment,  excited  in  a  high  degree  the  fervid 
imaginations  of  the  youthful  cavalcade,  causing  them 
aj^  night  ap])roaehed  to  kee]>  close  tt)gether.  Tlu-y, 
liowever,  did  not  deter  me,  who  had  ever  a  i>eculiar 


1 


TIGER  STORIES.  237 

fondness  for  the  Leautifnl  in  nature,  from  loitering 
somewhat  in  tlic  rear  of  my  eom})anion  to  gaze  in 
wondering  admiration  upon  the  grandeur  and  wild 
[uxurianec  of  the  seene  whieh  on  all  sides  met  my 
eyes.  Absorbed  in  contemplation  I  was  riding  slowly 
along,  when  suddenly,  and  to  my  great  horror  and 
dismay,  I  found  myself  in  presence  of,  apparently,  the 
dreaded  tiger  of  the  mountains.  JMy  imagination, 
roused  by  the  exciting  stories  of  the  muleteers,  showed 
ine  the  spotted  biiite  seated  upon  his  haunches,  his 
sinister  eyes  gazing  steadily  at  me  over  his  right 
shoulder.  Notwithstanding  this  pacific  attitude,  a 
thrill  of  terror  chilled  my  veins,  while  in  spite  of  the 
3old  prevailing  on  those  mountain  ranges,  heavy 
irops  of  perspiration  streamed  from  my  trembling 
Dody.  Tiie  tiger  seeming  spell-bound  with  my  sud- 
len  apparition,  I  endeavored  to  cry  aloud  for  help  ; 
jut  terror  had  deprived  mc  of  voice.  I  then  con- 
iluded  to  dismount  and  place  the  mule  between 
nyself  aiid  the  tiger,  which  impulse  w^as  suddenly 
jhecked  as  I  caught  sight  of  the  yawning  precipice 
reside  me.  I  had  therefore  no  alternative,  other 
han  the  ignominious  one  of  sliding  down  in  the  rear 
)f  my  mule,  a  feat  I  rapidly  accomplished  without  in 
he  least  inconveniencing  the  patient  creature,  which 
ill  the  while  stood  quietly  awaiting  my  pleasure.  At 
his  moment  the  moon,  until  then  partially  obscured 
jy  the  dense  fog,  shone  brilliantly  upon  the  scene, 
vhen,  to  my  great  mortification  and  greater  relief,  I 
liscovered  that  the  ferocious  tiger  of  my  imagination 
vas  only  the  fallen  branch  of  a  tree  covered  with 
eaves,  which  last  my  fertile  fancy  had  mistaken  for 
lie  spotted  skin  of  the  dreaded  mountain  tiger. 


CHAITKi:    XVII. 

8  II  O  O  T  I  N  C,      A  1»  V  E  X  T  r  H  E  S  . 

Wk  were  now  in  the  very  midst  <»f  the  nmst  splen- 
did sljootin^'  «rround  of  tlie  reiMihlic.  and  eadi  day 
my  quest  after  the  fi-athererj  inhabitants  t»f  tlmse  line 
proves  >vas  rewanled  witli  an  ahnndant  supply  of 
jhiviut,  gnachararat*^  and  that  most  noble  and  beauti- 
ful of  all  j^anie  birds,  the  p<niji  or  eri'sted  cunuisow 
of  South  America,  (CVax  aleetor.)  This  fine  speeics 
is  found  in  all  parts  of  the  country,  especially  in  the 
woods  of  the  iitrra  cah\nf<\  where  it  can  he  tracked 
without  difficulty  by  the  shrill  and  prolonged  whittle 
with  which  it  calls  its  mate,  and  which  can  be  heard 
fmm  a  loni^  distance.  It  aj>pcars  not  to  notice  the 
j>resence  of  the  hunter,  allowinij  itself  to  be  shot 
d<»wn  without  makini;  the  least  elVort  to  avoid  the 
danger.  This  bird  is  nearly  the  same  size  as  the  do- 
mestic turkey,  and  beinj;  easily  donu^ticated.  could 
very  well  supply  the  place  of  that  fowl,  as  the  flesh  is 
juicy  and  of  cxfjuisitc  flavor.  Its  ]»lumajfc  is  pecu- 
liarly rich  and  beautiful,  the  head  and  neck  bcin^ 
white  and  the  rest  of  its  body  of  a  rich  olive  brown, 
exccptinjjj  the  win^'  tips  which  are  black.    An  elej^ant 


SnOOTINO   ADVENTURES.  239 

;iift  of  curled,  glossy  black  feathers  surmounts  the 
lead,  adding  greatly  to  the  splendor  of  its  appcar- 
ince.  In  the  more  elevated  parts  of  the  country 
;here  is  another  species,  the  paiiji  de  pledni  or 
•ashew-bird,  so  called  from  a  singular  excrescence  on 
he  top  of  its  head,  in  color  a  bluish  gray,  and  bear- 
ng  some  resemblance  to  a  polished  nodule  of  slate, 
riiis  bird  only  inhabits  woods  growing  at  about  four 
Jiousand  feet  of  elevation,  and  if  possible  exceeds  in 
jeauty  the  preceding.  Its  plumage  of  a  deep  black, 
;vith  tints  of  olive  green,  contrasts  exquisitely  with 
hat  of  the  bill  and  legs,  which  are  respectively  of  a 
jrilliant  scarlet  and  deep  yellow.  They  are  even 
uore  easily  domesticated  than  the  preceding,  and  are 
herefore  to  be  met  with  in  many  a  farm  yard  of  the 
Cordillera,  where  they  form  one  of  its  most  graceful 
)rnaments. 

The  giiacharaca  or  South  American  pheasant  may 
dso  be  classed  among  the  finest  game  birds  of  Venez- 
lela,  and  is  extremely  abundant  everywhere.  In  riding 
dong  the  solitary  roads  through  the  plains  and  fertile 
rales  of  the  tierra  caliente,  the  traveller  may  have 
)ften  noticed  at  all  hours  of  the  day  and  even  of  the 
light,  more  especially  at  the  approach  of  rain,  a  most 
liscordant  cliattering  in  harsh  and  shrill  notes  ;  it  is 
he  song  of  the  guachnraea,  a  bird  of  about  the  size 
)f  the  domestic  hen,  bearing  some  resemblance  to  the 
enude  i)heasant.  and  like  it  of  a  chocolate  color.  It 
s  of  a  sociable  nature,  always  congregating  in  flocks 
)f  twenty  or  thirty.  The  moment  one  of  the  nuinl)er 
eads  the  chant,  all  the  rest  join  in  chorus,  uttering 
iistinctly  in  hoarse  repetition   giiacharaca,  guacha- 


1>4()  TRAVELS   AND   ADVENTURES. 

racd  /  lu'iice  the  name  of  tliii;  bird.  Tliesc  cries  nrc 
invarijiMy  re6j»onded  to  by  all  theflockt>  in  the  nci;^h 
hiirlntod,  so  that  in  a  short  time  the  whole  valley 
rin«rs  from  end  to  end  with  their  dif>cordant  voices. 
Like  all  «jther  <;allinaeeous  birds,  it  is  vtry  easily  do- 
mesticated with  the  jiaujie«,  pav(U,  giiUiuttus,  and 
several  other  wild  fowl  with  which  the  rural  inhabi- 
tant loves  to  stock  his  yard. 

In  addition  to  the  foregoing,  there  arc  also  in  the 
lJ:in«ts  all  kinds  of  wild  j»igcons,  doves,  jdovcrs,  and 
(inail.-,  the  latter  so  abundant  that  they  can  easily  be 
kilieil  Ity  the  hundred  with  a  stick.  And  indec<l,  so 
great  is  the  almo.-'t  endless  variety  of  line  binis  in 
these  wilds,  that  it  would  be  imjKts.'.ibk',  within  the 
limits  of  these  pages,  to  enter  into  further  detail  con- 
cerning them. 

Deer  were  also  very  pUntiful,  both  in  the  7/j<//<7, 
whither  they  were  attracted  by  its  refre^hing  shade, 
and  in  the  meadows  around  it  ;  but  having  no  dogs 
with  us,  and  being  miwilling  to  tire  (»ur  horses  in  un- 
j^rofitable  sjiort,  we  refrained  from  their  pursuit.  One 
afternoon,  however,  much  to  my  suri)rise,  a  merry, 
clever  fellow  by  the  name  of  Casimiro,  who  had  fol- 
lowed us  from  the  valleys,  entered  the  cam],  landing 
under  the  weight  of  a  line  doe  which  he  had  killed 
that  afternoon,  together  with  a  buck  that  an  Indian 
boy  was  carrying  for  him.  On  our  complimenting 
liis  extraordinary  skill  in  killing  two  deer  in  so  short 
a  space  of  time,  lie  informed  us  that  lie  could  have 
brought  down  any  numlier  of  them,  and  intended 
retracing  his  stci)6  at  once  for  more.  Tliis  proved  no 
mere  boa.«t,  for  quickly  returning  to  the  woods,  he 


SHOOTING    ADVENTURES.  241 

)on  after  again  made  his  appearance  "^ith  a  similar 
•ad,  which,  seating  liimsclf  by  the  lire,  he  at  once 
mimenced  skinning. 

I  inquired  of  Casimiro  the  occasion  of  liis  success ; 
e  replied  by  producing  a  tube  of  bamboo  about  the 
lickness  of  the  tliumb,  one  end  being  covered  with 
thin  membrane.  On  blowing  through  the  other 
id,  a  sound  precisely  resembling  the  bleati-ng  of  a 
3ung  fawn  resulted.  It  is  in  this  manner  that  the 
eacherous  hunter  decoys  the  anxious  doe,  whose 
rery  motion  he  watches  from  the  j^hace  of  his  con- 
diment behind  the  branches  of  some  tree,  usually 
le  algarrobo,  of  whose  pods  deer  are  very  fond, 
liis  detestable  expedient  is,  I  am  glad  to  state,  rarely 
:actised  miless  by  hungry  sportsmen ;  and  as  we 
ere  then  in  the  midst  of  plenty,  and  venison  besides 
)t  being  much  relished  by  the  beef-eating  popula- 
on  of  the  Llanos,  we  had  fortunately  no  occasion  to 
:sort  to  it  in  any  of  our  subsequent  dccr-shooting 
Iventures. 

Another  device  much  practised  by  Indians  in 
lese  cases,  consists  in  assuming  the  guise  of  the 
•cat  garzon  or  soldier  crane  of  the  pampas,  whose 
)mpany  appears  always  welcome  to  deer  grazing  in 
le  open  prairie.  This  crane,  which  I  have  mentioned 
,  a  former  chapter,  as  being  at  the  least  five  feet  in 
jight,  is  mounted  upon  a  pair  of  long  slender  legs, 
ving  it  the  appearance  of  walking  on  stilts  ;  their 
umage  is  a  dazzling  white,  and  they  have  a  pouch 
ider  the  tliroat  of  a  brilliant  scarlet  color.  The 
.11,  too,  is  q\iitc  a  remarkable  feature,  fully  a  foot 
11 


^4^  TKAVKLS   AM)   AU\  KNTUltKS. 

louf;  and  vrry  wide  at  the  bjisc,  which  permits  of 
swallowing  at  a  mouthful  large  tish,  as  well  as  frog?, 
toads  and  tinakes,  of  which  last  it  j)artakeij  with  cijual 
relish.  All  that  the  hunter  has  to  do,  who  intends 
ensnaring  his  deer  with  borrowed  plumes,  is  to  hide 
liis  own  fare  with  a  mask,  which  must  liave  a  long 
hill  resembling  that  of  the  crane  attached  to  it.  The 
mask  being  securely  fastened  on,  he  finishes  his  toilet 
by  covering  his  body  to  his  knees  with  a  while  gar- 
ment. 


In  thi.';  simple  disgui.se  the  hunter,  equipped  bo- 
sides  with  his  gun  «»r  bow  and  arr<iw>,  makes  straiirlt 
for  the  ganje,  careful  however  ti»  apjiroach  it  in  i 
contrary  direction  to  that  of  the  wind,  deer  po.s.'H.*s>ii  l' 
peculiarly  acute  ]iowers  of  scent.  On  one  (>cca,-i<'ii, 
I  was  fortunate  enough  to  shoot  three  of  these  ?-'  v 
animals  out  of  a  small  herd,  before  the  rcdt  took  i.c 
alarm. 


SUOOTING    ADVENTURES.  243 

Onr  Tonng  attach)'^  Roscliano,  who  had  witnessed 
tlie  universal  success  of  these  devices,  envying  the 
achievements  of  his  elders,  determined  to  try  what  he 
could  accomplish  for  himself  in  this  line.  Accord- 
ingly, choosing  for  his  intended  victim  a  fine  stag 
grazing  at  no  great  distance  from  the  camp,  he  forth- 
with proceeded  on  his  experiment.  Having  no  gar- 
zoiis  beak  at  hand,  nor  even  a  white  garment,  with 
which  to  personate  the  feathered  dandy  of  the  savan- 
nas, he  was  for  some  time  at  a  loss  how  to  approach 
the  game  without  alarming  it,  when  a  malicious  com- 
panion persuaded  him  that  he  could  ensnare  the  deer 
equally  well  if  he  presented  himself  simply  in  piiris 
naturalibus,  assuring  him  that  the  animal  would  in- 
dubitably conceive  him  to  be  a  rare  bird  or  at  least 
a  new  species  of  garson.  Koseliano,  finally  convinced 
by  these  specious  representations,  quickly  denuded 
himself;  then,  gun  in  hand,  and  taking  all  necessary 
precautions  in  regard  to  the  wind,  which  was  blowing 
quite  fresh  at  the  time,  immediately  gave  chase. 

At  first  the  stag  appeared  to  pay  little  heed  to  the 
enticing  object,  and  allowed  it  to  approach  within 
range  ;  but  the  moment  the  gun  was  raised,  the  stag 
turned  round  and  trotted  slowly  off",  waving  his  short 
tail  defiantly.  Sometimes  he  stopped  for  a  little  while, 
seeming  to  examine  from  head  to  foot  this  unfeathered 
biped,  afterward  resuming  his  mastications  with  per- 
fect nonchalance.  At  such  times  Roseliano,  with 
due  precautions,  would  creep  slowly  toward  him, 
when  invariably  the  deer,  almost  within  range,  again 
trotted  composedly  down  the  plain,  not  even  giving 
his  pursuer  a  chance  to  aim  at  him.     Occasionally  he 


24-4  TUAVEUS  AND    ADVKNTLKt:^. 

would  turn  ji])out,  stamp  his  tiny  lioof  upon  the  liard 
ground,  uiid  ji^ain  move  olF  wajrgiiij;  his  little  tuil  at 
him  tuj  thou«;h  to  bay,  "  No,  you  don't." 

Thus  went  each,  still  eluding  still  pursuing,  for  a 
long  distance,  without  either  seeming  at  all  willing  to 
jiart  comj)any,  until  the  burning  sun  began  to  tell 
upon  the  bare  skin  of  the  young  hunter,  who  expe- 
rienced besides  sundry  painful  reminders  from  the 
thorny  sensitive  plants  under  foot.  At  length  grow- 
ing somewhat  des]>erate,  he  dashed  ahead  and  sent  a 
ran<lom  shot  after  the  deer  without  success,  the  ball 
striking  the  ground  far  short  of  the  mark.  The  deer 
eecmed  now  to  think  he  had  received  notice  to  <piit, 
for,  to  the  great  disgust  of  poor  Roscliano,  he  at  one*- 
bounded  gracefully  over  the  tall  gra.-s  and  disaj^- 
peared  from  view. 

Within  a  stone's  throw  of  our  camp  were  several 
lagoons  abounding  in  terrapins  and  turtles,  whilst  on 
all  sides  the  savannas  teemed  with  many  delicious 
quadrupeds.  These,  on  account  of  their  pmr/iant 
for  the  water,  have  been  declared  cold-blooded  an- 
imals by  the  church,  and  can  in  consequence  be 
eaten  as  lish  ;  and  as  it  was  Holy  "Week,  a  grand 
hunt  was  proposed  for  the  ]>urpose  of  ])roviding  the 
cam])  with  t'ood  which  should  be  wholesome  as  well 
for  the  soul  as  the  bo<ly.  Accordingly,  early  on  Go".] 
Frid.iy  morning  the  whole  disposable  force  assemblti 
in  front  <if  the  ranch  ;  and  after  a  ]>artial  organ izatiim. 
all  started  on  foot  in  different  directions,  some  in 
quest  of  rarMi'dmo.t  or  armadillos,  others  for  ^nhi- 
pa^os  and  tortoises,  while  the  less  fastidious  did  nnt 
disdain  to  try  their  skill  upon  those  water  hogs,  the 
c/iii/'iii r,  s  (ir  ciiiivx  nrn<. 


SHOOTING   ADVENTURES.  245 

The  results  of  tlic  hunt  far  exceeded  our  expect;i- 
tion,  as  in  less  than  four  hocirs  nearly  three  hundred 
armadillos,  and  probably  as  numy  turtles,  were 
brought  into  camp.  The  flesh  of  the  chig'dire  is  not 
much  relished  by  the  Llaneros,  although  it  is  excel- 
lent for  hams  when  properly  cured  and  smoked  ; 
accordingly  the  carcasses,  the  hind  quarters  being 
removed,  were  left  to  the  turkey  buzzards. 

The  flesh  of  the  armadillo  is  most  delicious,  tast- 
ing very  much  like  young  pig ;    and  being  always 
roasted   iu  the   shell  —  a  thick 
cuirass    formed    of    successive  .  ^/   /^^^ 

liorny  plates — all  its  juices  are       ^'^{nf^^^ 
cfl'ectually    preserved.      It    is, 
however,  very  rich  eating,  from 
the  excess  of  fatness,  and  there-      _^^_^^„^r^_ 
fore  liable  to  produce  indiges-       T^^^^^^^Wy^ 
tion,  if  not  followed  by  a  good      ""^^cSC^^i- 
dose  of  aguardiente  and  a  strong 

sauce  of  Chili  peppers.  It  is  also  said  to  exert  very 
injurious  effects  on  persons  predisposed  to  syphilitic 
disorders  of  the  system,  developing  incipient  ulcers 
and  various  other  cutaneous  diseases. 

The  armadillo  is  a  harmless,  curiously-formed 
little  quadruped,  about  the  size  of  a  common  hedge- 
hog ;  it  burrows  in  the  ground,  spending  the  greater 
part  of  the  day  in  cool  retirement,  issuing  at  dusk  or 
very  early  in  the  morning  in  search  of  food  ;  this  con- 
sists principally  of  worms,  the  larvjE  of  insects  or  per- 
chance a  young  snake  from  the  broods  that  take  shel- 
ter among  the  cells  of  its  subterranean  abode — whether 
by  permission  or  as  intruders,  remains  to  be  ascer- 


2t0  TUAVKI.S  AND  ADVENTURES. 

tuiMi*(l.  Tlic  fact  is,  Iiowcvct,  tluit  many  of  these  bur- 
rows an-  t:*>  full  of  t^nakc'S,  that  it  i»  ut'ce&sury  on  ac- 
count of  them  to  exercise  eon^i(JcralJle  caution  when 
j)a>sing  near  the  abodes  of  annadillos.  Two  little 
owls  called  atjuaita-caminoSy  road- watchers,  usually 
stand  like  sentinels  at  the  entrance  of  these  burrows, 
and  by  their  constant  flutterinjp?  around  the  sj>orts- 
nian,  and  their  uncouth  motions,  almost  invariably 
succeed  in  warning?  the  armadillo.  Kevertheless,  if 
the  hunter  approach  in  front,  he  can  always  secure  it 
with  his  hands  as  its  vision  in  that  direction  is  entirely 
obscured  by  the  position  of  the  jilatcs  with  which  the 
head  is  covered.  "NVhcn  attacked  from  the  rear  or 
sides,  it  nuikcs  quickly  for  its  burrow  ;  but  if  the 
liunter,  however,  be  sufticiently  exj)ert,  he  may  suc- 
ceed in  getting  hold  of  the  long,  horny  tail  of  the  an- 
imal before  it  disa]ii)ears  entirely  from  view.  Kven 
then,  as  this  creature  possesses  the  power  of  swelling 
its  body  when  thus  attacked,  it  is  rather  diflieult  to 
drag  it  out,  unless  by  some  means  the  size  of  the  bur- 
row can  be  enlarged.  There  is  then  danger  of  severe 
wounds  from  its  sharj)  claws,  as  well  as  of  being  bitten 
by  some  of  the  poisonous  snakes  which  share  its 
home. 

What  aflinity  there  is  existing  between  this 
quadrupc<l  and  the  finny  inhabitants  of  the  water, 
prompting  their  classification  among  amphibia.  I  was 
unable  to  ascertain  ;  but  although  the  caj)yvara  and 
several  others  ])laced  by  the  church  mider  that  cat*  - 
gory,  possess,  it  is  tnu',  great  ])owcrs  of  resistance 
while  in  water,  the  reverse  is  a>sure«lly  the  caw  w  ith 
regard  to  the  armadillo,  which  always  seeks  the  higher 


SHOOTING    ADVENTURES.  247 

grounds  so  as  to  escape  suhniersion  durinp;  tlie  great 
tioods  ;  and  I  have  often  fonnd  it  in  the  midst  of  ex- 
tensive plains  where  no  nioistnre  excepting  the  dews 
of  night  is  to  be  seen  for  miles  around. 

When  all  the  ditfercnt  parties,  participants  in  the 
hunting  excursion,  were  once  more  seated  round  the 
camp  tires,  it  was  quite  amusing  to  hear  their  ac- 
counts of  the  various  incidents  comiected  with  it ; 
one  had  got  hold  of  a  rattlesnake's  tail,  mistaking  it 
for  that  of  an  armadillo  ;  another  had  stumbled  over 
a  crocodile  while  diving  for  turtles  in  a  shallow  creek ; 
a  third  had  his  toe  bitten  oft'  by  caribcs  ;  while  not  a 
few  experienced  more  or  less  severe  shocks  from  elec- 
tric eels.  In  front  of  many  of  the  fires,  soon  blazing 
under  the  trees,  were  arrayed  on  lung  wooden  spits 
entire  carcasses  of  the  armadillos  split  along  the  belly 
and  kept  open  by  means  of  cross  bars  of  green  boughs. 
Directly  the  coals  were  sufficiently  hot  in  the  centre 
of  the  fires,  the  galapagos  were  all  beheaded  and 
thrown,  still  alive,  into  the  midst  of  the  burning  em- 
bers. These  chelonia,  like  all  other  amphibia,  are  ex- 
ceedingly tenacious  of  life  ;  their  suftcrings,  therefore, 
must  doubtless  be  great  under  this  lingering  death,  as 
was  manifested  by  their  long-continued  struggles  in 
the  fire. 

The  Llaneros  say  that  these  turtles,  according  to 
their  most  exquisite  gastronomers,  should  be  eaten 
wiiere  there  is  no  light,  asserting  that  they  will  then 
be  found  more  rich  and  juicy  ;  but  the  actual  reason 
for  this,  as  I  afterward  ascertained  to  my  great  dis- 
gust, was  that  some  of  the  choicest  morsels  are  pre- 


248  TUAVKI-S   AND  AUVKSTUKES. 

cisely  those  wliich  to  be  eaten   must  not  be   setii, 
us  tttluTwiso  they  would  unhesitiitiiijrly  be  rejected. 

Tliere  are  several  varieties  of  Iresh  water  tortoiseti 
in  the  Apure,  an  abundant  and  whoK'Soine  I'ood  for 
the  inhabitants.  The  most  common  are  the  (jaUtjHUjos^ 
a  larjje  species  of  terrapin,  the  Uncay  and  the  arrau 
or  {.rreat  turtle  of  the  Orinoco,  concerninj^  which  the 
celebrated  Father  (Jumilla  wrote  in  his  "  Orinoco  II- 
lufitrated,''  that  it  would  be  a."^  diliicult  to  count  the 
^'rains  of  sand  on  the  shores  of  the  Orinoco,  as  to 
count  the  immense  number  of  tortoises  which  inhabit 
its  margin  and  water.  Although  conliocd  i)rincii>ally 
to  the  broad  channel  of  the  Orinoco,  the  arraus 
arc  met  with  also  in  great  abundance  in  the  Apure, 
the  Arauca,  and  most  of  the  other  large  tributaries 
of  that  river ;  as  also  in  the  Amazon,  according 
to  Bates'  statements,  who  has  devoted  a  chapter  to 
this  magnificent  turtle,  and  to  the  exciting  scenes 
which  take  place  during  the  gathering  of  their  eggs 
by  the  Amaz:v)nian  Indians  and  Portuguese  traders. 
As  I  intend  to  allude  again  to  this  subject,  I  will 
return  to  their  congeners  of  the  flooded  lands  west 
of  the  Orinoco.  To  convey  a  distinct  idea  of  the 
prodigious  abundance  of  this  species,  it  may  suffice  to 
say  that  by  merely  driving  a  lierd  of  wild  cattle  or 
hoi*ses  at  full  spee<l  into  any  pond  of  these  savannas, 
the  first  wave  ])roducod  In*  the  sudden  spla.'^h  will 
heave  up  thousands  of  turtles  upon  the  beach. 
Another  method  resorted  to  in  the  Llanos  for  obtain- 
ing them,  is  by  raking  in  the  soft  mud  in  which  these 
chclonia  habitually  b\iry  thcjnselves  the  moment  they 
are   alarmed.     After  this    mud   becomes  thoroughl,y 


SHOOTING    ADVENTURES.  249 

dried  bv  tlie  summer's  lieat,  tlicy  remain  imder  its 
indurated  crust  in  a  donnant  state  until  the  com- 
mencement of  the  rainy  season.  Yet  even  liere  the 
poor  creatures  are  insecure,  as  they  are  not  unfro- 
quently  roused  from  their  siesta  by  the  hunter  setting 
fire  to  the  dry  water  phmts,  the  ornaments  of  these 
natural  ponds  ;  at  such  times  breaking  through  the 
earth  crust  which  environs  them,  they  in  vain  en- 
deavor to  escape  their  tormentors,  who  can  then  j)ick 
them  up  at  tlieir  leisure. 

In  addition  to  the  foregoing,  there  are  two  other 
varieties  of  tortoises  found  amidst  the  marshes  and 
jungles  of  the  Llanos  ;  they  arc  the  morrocoy  or  land 
tortoise,  having  a  hard  and  rounded  shell,  and  the 
jicotea,  an  animal  which  appears  to  form  the  con- 
necting link  between  turtles  proper  and  tortoises ; 
both  arc  of  excellent  flavor,  more  especially  the  for- 
mer, whose  liver,  dressed  and  fried  in  its  own  gall,  is 
undoubtedly  superior  to  that  most  prized  of  all  epi- 
curean morsels,  foie  gras.  It  is  very  large  as  com- 
pared with  the  size  of  the  animal,  decreasing  however 
very  materially  if  its  owner  has  had  a  long  fast,  which, 
as  this  reptile,  like  all  others  of  the  class,  can  and  does 
frequently  live  a  long  time  without  food,  has  doubt- 
less occasioned  the  popular  error  that  it  feeds  on  its 
own  liver  when  long  deprived  of  other  nourishment. 

During  the  season  of  great  droughts,  the  morrocoy 
seeks  the  hollow  tninks  of  trees  for  shelter,  where  it 
lives  entirely  without  nourishment  for  several  months, 
until,  feeling  the  dampness  produced  by  the  first 
showers  of  s})ring  penetrating  his  subterranean  abode, 
he  moves  slowly  out  to  browse  upon  the  tender  shoots 


250  THAVEI-S  AND  ADVENTURES. 

of  wfttcr  plants  and  prairie  lilies.  Tlic  shell  of  this 
tortoise  i»  so  hard  that  nothing  short  of  heavy  blowt; 
from  an  axo  can  separate  the  thick  plates  of  which  it 
is  formed,  and  a  locomotive  engine  might  j>ass  over  it 
without  producing  the  least  etl'ect  upon  its  unimpres- 
sible  tenant.  Long  after  the  carcass  has  been  cut  up 
for  cooking,  and  is  in  water  boiling  over  the  tire,  the 
jiieces  arc  incessantly  in  motion,  and  it  is  not  until 
the  boiling  has  been  continued  many  successive  hours, 
that  the  meat  is  fit  for  eating. 

The  land  tortoise  docs  not  dc])osit  its  eggs  in  the 
sand,  as  is  the  practice  with  its  congener  of  the  water, 
but  drops  them  indiscriminately  into  any  convenient 
hole,  leaving  the  care  of  hatching  them  to  the  heat  of 
the  earth.  The  egir,  which  is  larger  than  a  hen's,  is 
extremely  white,  6j)herical  in  form,  and  very  hard. 
The  male  is  readily  distinguished  from  the  female  by 
a  deep  depression  of  its  ]>ect»»ral  })late,  that  of  the 
female  being  perfectly  even  with  the  gromul. 

I  have  been  assured  by  reliable  parties  that  the 
blood  of  the  luorroeoij  is  a  specific  for  neuralgia,  if 
rnlib..].  while  still  warm,  upon  the  part  affected. 


ciiArrEii  xvm. 


T  o  T  u  :m  o . 


Little  was  accomplished  in  tlic  M-ay  of  hunting 
durinp;  the  two  weeks  we  passed  at  Mata  Gorda,  oc- 
cupying oursclvQ3  mainly  in  building  a  ranch  for  the 
establishment  of  a  caporal  and  his  family,  with  cor- 
rals attached,  suflBciently  spacious  to  accommodate  a 
large  drove.  Other  parts  of  the  estate  requiring  im- 
mediate attention,  we  removed  from  Mata  Gorda  to 
Mata  Totumo,  a  retired  corner  of  the  savannas,  whose 
proximity  to  other  cattle  farms  exposed  it  to  the  con- 
stant depredations  of  poachers.  In  this  way  vast 
numbers  of  our  cattle  were  annually  lost  to  us  ;  it 
had  accordingly  become  necessary  to  establish  there 
also  a  Fundacion,  or  small  fiirm  with  a  resident  capo- 
ral, who  should  exercise  a  strict  surveillance  and  take 
charge  of  a  small  herd  of  tame  cattle  as  a  nucleus  for  a 
pcnnanent  settlement  in  that  exposed  frontier. 

Hardly  were  wc  established  in  the  new  encamp- 
ment, when  a  party  of  our  men  in  scouring  the  sa- 
vanna encountered  a  band  of  these  cattle  poachers, 
who  had  alreadv  collected  a  sufficient  drove  to  make 


^OJi 


TKAVKI-S  AM)   AUVE.\TURES. 


them  coinfortaMe  to  the  year's  end,  and  were  liasteu- 
iii;;  htuiic  M-ith  tlieir  unlawful  l>tu»ty.  Our  j»eui»lc 
ininud lately  «:ave  eliaso,  but  bueeeeilcd  in  eapturin^ 
t\v(»  only  ut'tlie  robbers.  After  whipping  these  most 
unmereifully,  as  is  eustoniary  in  the  Llanos  for  similar 
ofiVnees,  and  •riviu'j:  them  in  addition  the  positive  as- 
huranee  that,  if  a<.Min  found  within  the  ]>reeinet6  of 
the  estate,  they  W(»uld  fare  even  worse,  the  raseals 
Mere  at  len<,'th  allowed  to  depart  without  further 
punishment. 

As  usual  in  all  our  prairie  encampments,  much 
time  was  occupied  in  destroying:  baneful  weeds  and 
reptiles.  Snakes  especially  were  so  plentiful  as  to  at 
times  frreatly  endan«;er  our  barefooted  community. 
That  habit  is  second  nature,  was  certainly  strikingly 
excmplilied  in  the  ]>resent  instance,  for  in  a  few  dav- 
we  came  to  notice  the  heretofore  dreaded  snakes  as 
little  as  thouuh  so  many  hannless  earthworms.  Our 
feai*s,  if  not  their  cause,  beinjr  at  length  entirely  re- 
moved, we  next  erected  a  shelter  from  the  inclemency 
of  the  weather  for  our  al>undant  lujrgan;e,  no  small 
cause  of  anxiety,  situated  as  we  were  at  a  long  dis- 
tance from  the  source  of  any  fresh  supplies.  After- 
wards we  commenced  raising  corrals  for  our  increas- 
ing herds.  Fortunately  building  materials  were  very 
abundant  ;  and  the  bamboo,  that  graceful  represen- 
tative of  the  grasses,  was  of  the  greatest  utility.  Its 
tall  and  jtliant  stems  alTorde*!  all  that  was  necessary 
for  rafters  and  fence  rails,  serving  also  various  other 
uses.  To  <luly  estimate  the  size  attained  by  this  giant 
gra.'vs  of  the  tropics,  it  is  necessary  to  understand  that 
some   stems  reach    the  astonishing  height  of  thirty 


MATA  TOTU.MO.  253 

or  even  forty  feet,  with  a  corresponding  tliickness 
of  six  or  seven  inches  at  their  base  ;  and  as  these 
bamboos  spring  in  immense  chisters  from  the  ground, 
they  grow  at  hist  into  an  aspect  which  is  truly  beau- 
tiful. Innumerable  slender  leaves  of  a  delicate  sea 
green  color,  clothe  in  masses  the  tops  of  these  huge 
steins,  curving  them  downward  by  their  weight,  and 
giving  them,  especially  when  sporting  with  the  soft 
l)ivczcs  of  the  pampas,  the  appearance  oi'  waving 
plumes  of  most  magniticent  proportions,  rising,  bend- 
ing, swaying  in  long,  graceful  sweeps  over  the  tops 
of  the  surrounding  trees.  An  elegant  writer,  describ- 
ing this  majestic  Queen  of  the  Grasses,  has  beauti- 
fully said,  "  Grace,  delicacy,  richness  of  form  and 
color,  ever}'  element  of  vegetable  beauty,  appear  com- 
l)ined  in  this  luxuriant  dweller  by  the  streams  of  the 
tropics.  Kothing  is  more  cheerful  to  the  eye  of  the 
heated  and  wearied  traveller,  than  the  deep  rocky 
basins  formed  by  mountain  streams  when  filled  with 
water,  and  overshadowed  by  clumps  of  bamboo. 
Tiiev  often  lean  over  the  stream  on  one  side  and  arch 
the  pathway  on  the  other,  excluding  almost  every 
i:iy  of  sunlight  from  the  cool  recesses  below.  Their 
delicate  brittle  leaves  are  stirred  by  the  tiniest  zephyr, 
and  l)end  to  the  pressure  of  the  butterfly  and  the  bee. 
K^ometimes  clumps  of  bamboo  stand  on  either  side  of  the 
roads  and  form  long  vaulted  passages,  as  if  by  fretted 
Gothic  arches,  with  here  and  there  l)ranches  of  rich 
flowers  and  leaves  hanging  down  like  beautiful  cor- 
bels. "When  the  gale  of  the  hurricane  comes,  these 
groves  of  bamboo  exchange  an  aspect  of  beauty  for 
that  of  irrandeur.     Thev  are  heave<l  and   tossed  like 


i>54  TKAVEI.S   AND   ADVENTURES. 

till'  billows  of  the  sea,  and  their  rich  foliupe  drivtn  in 
evt-rv  «lirL'itiou  aj)pcar6  like  isurges  breaking  on  the 
rocki." 

No  sooner  was  the  niajada  in  readiness,  than  we 
conuncnccd  the  somewhat  laborious,  but  at  the  same 
time  pleasingly  exciting  business  of  filling  it,  for 
which  jiurpose  we  called  upon  the  neighboring  cattle 
farms  of  La  Vagua  and  Caucagua  for  assistance.  So 
etfectual  were  our  etibrts,  that  in  a  few  days  we  liad 
collected  two  thousand  animals  for  the  brand,  most 
of  which,  having  long  passed  the  age  when  this  oper- 
ation is  usually  j)crformed,  gave  us  in  cousecjuencc  a 
great  thai  of  trouble.  Occasionally,  by  way  of  relax- 
ation from  our  labors,  we  busied  oiirselves  in  training 
the  boys  in  the  manly  art  of  tovcar^  or  the  scarcely 
less  dangerous  one  of  breaking  in  wild  horses,  on 
which  especially  the  hardy  dwellers  of  the  Llanos 
eminently  i)ride  themselves.  During  our  sojourn  at 
Mata  T«»tumo,  its  owner  became  concerned  in  an  in- 
cident highly  illustrative  of  this  ])eculiar  jiride.  so  uni- 
versal a  trait  among  these  children  of  Nature  and  the 
Sun,  illustrative  no  less  of  the  almost  entire  frec<lom 
from  conventional  restraint  which  exists  between 
master  and  servant  in  the  Llanos.  Our  Leader  had 
taken  a  strong  fancy  to  a  beautiful  cream  colored 
horse,  which,  although  ])artially  trained  to  the  saddle, 
missed  n(»  t>p))ortunity  of  practising  some  of  his  old 
tricks,  a  favt)rite  one  being  aj>parently  to  unseat, 
whenever  possible,  his  rider.  This  amusement  he 
si'Veral  times  indulge<l  in  at  the  expense  of  his  master, 
an<l.  as  it  chanced,  always  in  ]uesence  of  his  pet  cap- 


MATA    TOTOIO.  255 

oral,  Sanniento,  "who  invariably  gave  carte  Uanche 
to  his  own  witticisms  on  such  occasions.  To  these 
the  good-humored  master  replied  one  day  by  chal- 
lenging htm  to  ride  the  horse  round  the  camp  on  a 
run  without  being  thrown,  a  dollar  to  be  added  to  his 
wages  if  successful ;  if  the  reverse,  the  same  amount 
to  be  thereafter  deducted.  **  Done,"  cried  Sarmiento, 
extending  his  hand  familiarly  to  his  master :  and 
without  more  words,  having  blindfolded  the  horse  by 
means  of  a  sliding  leather  strap  attached  to  the  bridle, 
called  tapaojos^  he  placed  upon  him  his  own  saddle 
and  holsters,  and  the  next  moment  was  firmly  seated 
on  his  back.  Then,  removing  the  bandage,  he  at 
once  commenced  belaboring  the  refractory  staUion 
with  his  ckaparro,  showering  such  powerful  blows 
upon  his  haunches,  that  the  terrified  animal  rushed 
headlong  through  the  camp,  rearing,  plunging,  and 
tearing  along  the  plain  at  a  feartul  pace.  All  in  vain 
were  the  efibrts  of  the  nigh  frantic  steed  to  shake  the 
unmerciful  Centaur  from  his  back :  the  poor  animal 
had  to  strive  against  one  with  whom  contention  was 
ineffectual,  and  who  finally  brought  him  back  tri- 
umphantly to  the  camp  as  submissively  meek  as  he 
had  previously  been  savage  and  refractory. 

Shortly  after  our  arrival  in  that  secluded  spot, 
came  the  Corporation  of  Mantecal,  under  whose  juris- 
diction we  were,  accompanied  by  many  of  the  inhabi- 
tants, to  pay  their  respects  and  personal  regards  to 
the  former  chieftain  of  the  Llanos  and  late  President 
of  the  Republic,  tendering  him  at  the  same  time  the 
hospitalities  of  the  town — a  few  straggling  huts.     It 


256  TKAVEl-S  AND  ADVENTURES. 

wari  a  Hiirpriso  party,  nevertheless  we  acquitted  our- 
selves witli  becoiuiu^  hosjntHlity.  Two  fat  calves  were 
iinine«liutely  hlauj^htcred  ;  and  these,  together  with 
numbers  of  annadilios,  pila]>a^O!<,  and  a  line  sow  from 
the  swamps  near  by,  formed  a  bancjuet  not  unworthy 
a  Ix)ndon  board  of  aldermen.  A  hastily  constructed 
table,  its  top  made  from  laths  of  bamboo  and  tied 
with  ht'jxtcos  or  creepers  to  four  rough  ]>osts  set  in  the 
ground,  was  soon  raised  under  the  trees  ;  the  broad 
leaves  of  the  wild  plantain  fonned  the  table  cloth, 
while  the  shells  of  •;alaj)agos  served  the  double  pur- 
pose of  jilatcs  an«l  dishes,*entirely  in  keeping  with  the 
rural  entertainment. 

Here,  as  well  as  at  Mata  (torda,  game  was  most 
abundant,  and  we  could  at  all  times  count  upon  a 
ready  supply  with  Mhieh  Xo  vary  the  more  substan- 
tial dishes.  Deer  were  ]»lentiful  in  the  surrounding 
wotuls  ;  but  I  found  them,  after  killing  several,  too 
thin  at  this  season  to  l)e  worth  hunting,  especially  as 
the  savannas  were  teeming  with  the  finest  cattle  and 
wild  hogs  ;  the  latter  are  in  good  contlition  at  all 
times,  and  each  day  our  men  brought  to  camp  the 
spoils  of  one  or  more  cajwius  han^ini;  from  the  sad- 
dles. 

Tlic  ant-bear  or  groat  ant-cater,  a  stout  and  ]>ower- 
fiil  animal  measuring  six  feet  from  the  snout  to  the 
end  of  the  tail,  also  ranged  these  prairies  ;  but  al- 
though his  flesh  is  well-flavored  and  easily  procured, 
it  is  never  used  for  food,  owing  to  his  repulsive  ap- 
])earancc.  "  lie  is  chiefly  found  in  the  inmr»st  recesses 
of  the  forest,  and  seems  partial  to  the  low  and  swamj^y 
l»arts  near  creeks,  where  the  trocly-trcc  grows.    Tlierc 


JIATA    TOTUMO. 


257 


he  goes  up  and  down  in  quest  of  ants,  of  wliicli  there 


sufficient  supply  of  food  with  very  little  trouhk-.  lie 
cannot  travel  fast ;  man  is  superior  to  him  in  speed. 
Without  swiftness  to  enable  him  to  escape  from  his 
enemies ;  without  teeth,  the  possession  of  which  would 
assist  him  in  self-defence  ;  and  without  the  power  of 
burrowing  in  the  ground,  by  which  he  might  conceal 
himself  from  his  pursuers,  he  still  is  capable  of  rang- 
ing through  these  wilds  in  perfect  safety  ;  nor  does 
he  fear  the  fatal  pressure  of  the  serpent's  fold,  or  the 
teeth  of  the  furnished  jaguar.  Nature  has  formed  his 
fore-legs  wonderfully  thick,  and  strong,  and  muscular, 
and  armed  his  feet  with  three  tremendous  sharp  and 
crooked  claws.  Whenever  he  seizes  an  animal  with 
these  formidable  weapons,  he  hugs  it  close  to  his 
body,  and  keeps  it  there  till  it  dies  through  pressure, 


^^ 


258  TRAVKl^   AND   ADVENTLRKS. 

or  tlirouirh  want  of  food.  Nor  does  the  ant-bear  in 
tlic  111!  aiitiiiic  tuflcr  much  from  lo^is  of  ulitnent,  uj*  it 
iri  a  wcll-lvnown  fact  tliat  he  can  go  longer  without 
food  than,  j)crha|»s,  any  other  aiiimul,  excepting  tl»o 
hind-tortoise.  His  skin  is  of  a  texture  that  pcrfeetly 
resists  tlie  bite  of  a  dog ;  his  hinder  parts  are  pro- 
tected by  thick  and  sliaggy  hair,  while  his  immense 
tail  is  large  enotigh  to  cover  his  whole  body.''  * 

Numerous  also  were  the  foot-])rinte  of  the  jaguar; 
yet,  in  my  fre(iucnt  peramlnilations  through  the  forest, 
it  was  never  my  fortune  to  encounter  this  desjiot  of 
the  howling  wilderness,  although  1  one  day  mibtook 
for  his  voice  that  of  the  tltiriji  or  great  honied  owl 
of  tiie  ]»am]>as.  I  found  him  perche<i  among  the 
branches  of  a  guaino  tree,  inclining  his  large  head 
toward  me  with  a  serutinizing  look  peculiar  to  those 
birds,  as  if  taking  mental  notes  of  my  aj>pearance. 
"Whenever  I  remained  jterfectly  fjuiet  he  gave  uHcr- 
aiue  to  his  unearthly  hootings,  the  woods  ecluting 
and  re-eeh(»ing  the  dismal  sounds.  The  tifiriji  wotild 
seem  to  be  ]K)ssessed  of  some  ventriUxjuial  ]>owcr,  for 
his  voice,  loud  and  deep  as  it  wa.«,  yet  a]>peared  to 
issue  from  a  distance.  The  frccpient  elVect  of  this  i>e- 
culiarity  is  to  mislead  the  unaccustomed  hunter,  who 
by  it  is  readily  induced  to  wander  on  and  on  in  un- 
availing search.  Having  contemplated  at  leisure  this 
singidar  bird,  I  fin.iUy  levelled  my  fowling-piece  at 
liim,  and  brought  him  down  with  a  charge  of  buck- 
shot whirh  I  had  destined  for  a  deer.  It  ]>rove<l  a 
very  fine  sj>ecimen,  with  wings  as  large  as  those  of  a 

•  Wntorton's  "  Wamlcrings  in  South  Amoric*." 


MATA  TOTUMO.  259 

good  sized  turkey,  wliile  two  liorn-likc  tufts  of  foatlicrs 
rose  on  each  side  of  the  head,  whieh,  in  addition  to 
the  hirge,  ghiring  eyes,  gave  liini  a  truly  ferocious 
aspect.  His  food  consists  of  all  kinds  of  wild  fowl ; 
however,  not  being  over  scnipulous,  he  devours  with 
equal  relish  rats,  mice  and  snakes ;  while  even  mon- 
keys of  the  smaller  sort  are  often  his  prey.  This  owl 
inhabits  for  the  most  part  the  loneliest  and  gloomiest 
portions  of  the  forest ;  but  is  occasionally  seen  sol- 
enmly  watching  from  some  convenient  tree-tup  the 
various  inhabitants  of  the  farmyard. 

MAXTECAL. 

In  compliance  with  an  invitation  tendered  to  the 
General  and  his  suite  by  the  good  people  of  Mantecal, 
Ave  started  in  a  few  days  to  visit  their  village,  not  far 
distant  from  our  encampment.  AVhen  within  three 
miles  of  the  place,  we  were  welcomed  by  a  large  con- 
course of  the  inhabitants  coming  to  escort  us.  Al- 
most the  whole  po})ulation  turned  out,  saluting  our 
entry  into  the  town  with  the  tiring  of  bluuderbuses 
and  other  firearms,  and  further  gracing  it  with  a  most 
discordant  uproar  of  rickety  harps,  violins,  &iid  ban- 
dolas,  enough  to  have  driven  frantic  the  "  Enraged 
Musician  "  of  Hogarth, 

^Mantecal  was  at  one  time  quite  a  flourishing  town, 
notwithstanding  the  wars  which  ravaged  it  for  many 
successive  years ;  but  since  the  great  epidemic  of  1832, 
and  subsecpiently,  it  has  been  well  nigh  de|)Opulated, 
while  the  few  inhabitants  who  were  not  awept  away 
by  tlie  scourge,  abandoned  their  iiomes.     Thus  the 


0(30  TKAVKLS   AND   ADVENTL'RES. 

oiice  busy  community  bt'camc  almost  a  dismal  wil- 
derness. 

*'  Where  at  each  step  the  stranger  fears  to  wuko 
The  rattling  terrors  of  the  vengeful  snake." 

At  tiie  time  of  our  visit  to  Muntccal  but  few 
houses  remained  standing,  sad  monuments  of  past 
j)ro.s|)erity.  "We  spent  tlirec  days  there,  and  the  in- 
habitants, hosj)itable  in  sj>itc  of  their  miserable  con- 
dition, entertained  us  to  the  utmost  of  their  ability. 
Not  only  did  they  provide  the  best  acoommodations 
the  villajrc  aflnrded,  l)Ut  treated  us  in  addition  to  a 
ni;^htly  fandaii;:o,  in  which  ]>eople  of  all  rai«tes  and 
conditions  joined.  Tliese  festivities  endtnl,  we  jrladly 
returned  to  our  jirairie  home,  the  more  ej>j>eeially  that 
the  iniportant  duties  we  had  there  to  perform  would 
probably  delay  our  return  to  Maracay  several  weeks 
longer ;  also  the  rainy  season  was  fast  approaching 
and  each  day  we  liad  warnings  of  the  coming  tempest 
then  brewing  in  the  south. 

We  continued  to  hunt  those  savannas  while  there 
were  any  onjauos  to  brand,  adding  largely  in  the 
meantime  to  our  stock  of  reserved  oxen  for  the  mar- 
kets of  the  upper  country,  which  had  already  in- 
creased to  a  considerable  drove.  We  also  made  sev- 
eral  excursions  to  the  neighboring  cattle  fanns  for 
the  purpose  of  separating  from  their  herds  all  the 
ortjanoH  whose  mothers  bore  our  brand.  Judging 
from  the  number  of  calves  there  collected,  and  with- 
out taking  into  consideration  those  yearly  disi-anled 
by  the  mothers,  it  was  easy  to  perceive  that  the  rev- 
enues of  those  estates  were  greatly  incre;u^ed  at  our 


MATA  TOTUMO.  261 

cost,  tbeir  orip;inal  stock  being  vastly  inferior  to  ours. 
In  this  niunnor  many  of  the  minor  cattle  farms  en- 
riched themselves  at  the  expense  ut"  wealthy  neighbors. 


CHArTEU    XIX. 


MONKEY       NOTION 


TiiK  fjna)n<i.>i  were  ii(»\v  iu  full  bearing,  their  lus- 
cious potls  a  ;;ratet'ul  refroshuKnt  to  the  heated  ami 
thirsty  rainltler  thr.»u<;h  the  wikxIs.  Monkeys  and 
macaws  are  i)artieularly  fond  of  this  fruit  ;  and  on 
the  tops  of  all  the  highest  guamo- trees  could  be  seen 
family  reunions  of  these  chatterers  ajiparently  discuss- 
ing the  merits  of  the  crop. 

Of  monkeys,  the  most  conspicu'ius  in  the  Llanos 
are  the  nra'junti),  or  howling  monkey  (Simia  ursina), 
ami  the  machajuji)  (S.  sajous),  this  hist  a  small  grey 
monkey,  very  common  in  most  parts  of  Venezuela. 
On  account  of  its  wonderful  agility  and  vivacious  dis- 
jiosition  the  machango  is  much  esteemed  as  a  pet  by 
the  inhabitants,  many  of  whom  keep  one  or  more  tied 
to  a  post  in  the  court-yanl,  where  they  enact  to  some 
extent  the  role  of  buffoon  to  the  whole  family.  They 
are,  however,  very  mi.schievous  creatures,  doing  every 
possible  damage  in  the  house  the  moment  they  arc  at 
large  ;  but  are  cs])ecially  destructive  to  cacao  jdan- 


MONKEY  NOTIONS.  263 

tatians  and  cornfiokls.  Wlicn  about  to  comiiioiice 
their  depredations  in  those,  they  usually  assemble  in 
great  numbers  and  exercise  many  precautions ;  the 
first  step  is  to  station  several  of  tlieir  number  as  sen- 
tinels upon  the  highest  trees,  or  any  elevated  situation 
overlooking  the  avenues  leading  to  the  plantation, 
Avhence  they  warn  the  others  of  approaching  danger. 
The  next  jiroceeding  is  that  of  i)laeing  those  of  the  fe- 
males— which  on  account  of  their  young  are  prevented 
from  assisting  in  the  foray — in  some  safe  retreat.  The 
precautions  comi)leted,  they  invest  the  cornfield  in 
earnest,  pulling  down  the  stocks  and  tearing  off  ears 
of  corn  M-ith  astonishing  expedition,  chattering,  laugh- 
ing, and  yelling  all  the  while  like  a  set  of  mischievous 
boys  in  the  absence  of  the  dominie.  When  they  have 
accumulated  a  sufficient  iniiiibcr  of  cars,  they  split 
the  husks,  and  tying  them  in  jjairs  by  means  of  an 
ingenious  knot  peculiar  to  themselves,  called  in  con- 
sequence monkey-tie,  they  throw  them  across  their 
backs,  and  tlius  equipped  hasten  to  hide  their  booty 
in  some  safe  nook  difficult  of  discovery  by  the  neglect- 
ful majordomo,  who  not  unfrequently  conceals  his 
own  defalcations  in  the  yield  of  the  j)lantation  by 
ascribing  the  deficiency  to  the  thieving  monkeys.  It 
often  happens  that  while  these  last  arc  engaged  in 
their  depredations,  they  are  surjirised  ])y  the  owner 
of  the  cornfield,  who,  eluding  tlie  vigilance  of  the 
scouts,  suddenly  ajipears  and  pours  a  shower  of  shot 
into  their  midst.  Then  with  shrill  cries  of  alarm  the 
whole  troop  scamper  off  helter-skelter,  tumbling, 
pitching  or  hobbling  along  on  all  fours,  but  never 
di'opping  a  particle  of  their  plunder.     The  belief  ob- 


2<;4  TIlAVEl^  AM)   ADVENTURES. 

tains  in  the  Llanos,  that  wlicn  at  lenjrth  &afe  in  their 
haunts,  the  careKss  gentinels  are  arruijijneti  before  a 
couneil  of  elders,  who  after  due  deliberation  eondenin 
them,  after  wliich  the  i?uilty  jtarties  are  tied  to  a  tree 
and  sound ly  whipj)ed. 

No  less  remarkable  is  their  inircniuus  method  (»f 
crossing  torrents  and  other  minor  streams  whieh  they 
ol'ten  eneounter  in  their  ceaseless  jterambulation.', 
throu^di  the  forest.  As  amonfj  men,  all  cannot  swim 
with  e(|ual  facility,  so  it  is  also  with  monkeys  ;  accor- 
din^dy  the  leaders  of  the  troop,  pnerally  the  stron^;:- 
cst  of  the  l»arty,  climb  to  the  sjireadinfi:  branches  of 
some  tree  projeetin*;  over  the  stream  ;  one  of  them 
tlicn  twists  his  tail  firmly  around  a  branch,  and  let- 
tinj;  his  body  han^,  seizes  u])on  the  tail  of  the  nearest 
comrade,  who  in  his  turn  performs  the  same  operation 
with  the  next,  and  so  on  until  a  sort  of  chain  or  living 
pcndidum  is  formed,  which  in  obedience  to  the  laws 
of  equilibrium  oscillates  slowly  but  constantly  from 
their  C(»nd)ined  cllurts  to  reach  the  opposite  bank. 
This  finally  achieved,  the  last  monkey  secures  him- 
self to  the  most  convenient  tree.  The  others  of  the 
chain,  now  disenj^agcd  from  the  tree  at  the  opposite 
side  of  the  stream,  wade  througli  tlic  water,  each 
helped  by  his  neighbor,  assisted  likewise  by  tho  cur- 
rent. Some  are,  however,  occasionally  drowned,  the 
last  one  in  the  chain  especially,  whifh  circumstance 
lias  ])robably  given  rise  to  the  ])opular  proverb,  tl 
ultimo  inojio  sitvipi'c  sc  ahoga — the  last  mcmkey  is 
sure  to  be  drowned.  Sagacious  as  these  anin.als  un- 
doubtedly are,  it  is  often  very  easy  to  entraj>  them. 
One  of  the  6im]>lcst   methods  consists  in  cutting  a 


MONKEY   NOTIONS.  2C5 

inimber  of  holes  in  n  gourd  barclj  large  cnongh  to 
adinit  of  squeezing  in  tlie  monkey's  hands.  The 
gourd  thus  prepared  is  filled  with  corn  and  secured 
to  the  trunk  of  a  tree,  then  shaken  violently  for  a 
tiuie  so  as  to  attract  the  attention  of  the  monkeys, 
and  a  few  gi-ains  of  corn  scattered  in  the  neighbor- 
hood of  the  trap.  The  gourd  is  in  fact  the  dinner 
bell  of  the  monkeys,  which  no  sooner  hear  the  well 
known  sound,  than  they  descend  in  great  numbers 
from  their  aerial  homes,  and  each  in  turn  seizing  the 
gourd,  grasps  through  one  of  the  holes  a  handful  of 
corn.  But  in  vain  do  they  struggle  to  withdraw  their 
hands  without  relinquishing  the  prize ;  and  at  this 
critical  moment,  the  concealed  author  of  their  mishap 
suddenly  makes  his  appearance,  and  tying  theii'  hands 
carries  them  oft'  to  his  cottage  in  the  woods. 

More  taciturn  and  retiring  in  his  habits  than  the 
preceding,  the  arcujxiato — a  large  reddish  monkey  of 
the  ring-tail  genus — exhibits  none  of  those  mischiev- 
ous tricks  which  characterize  the  former,  never  ap- 
proaching the  haunts  of  man  nor  ravaging  the  fields 
of  the  industrious  farmer.  His  only  food  consists  of 
wild  fruits,  gathered  as,  with  astonishing  rapidity,  he 
springs  from  branch  to  branch.  All  the  limbs  of  this 
great  monkey  are  admirably  adapted  to  his  roving 
habits  ;  in  these  he  is  assisted  very  materially  by  his 
long  prehensile  tail,  which  acts  the  part  of  a  fifth 
hand. 

The  roar  of  the  aragiiato  is  so  extraordinary,  that 
persons  who  hear  it  for  the  first  time  invariably  ima- 
gine it  that  of  the  jaguar.  I  think  I  may  assert  Avith- 
out  fear  of  mistake,  that  it  can  be  heard  at  the  dis- 


20C  TKAVKI-S  AND  AUVLNTUBES. 

tauco  of  three  miles,  especially  in  damp  and  cl.'udy 
wcatJK'r.  '*  Tliis  most  striking  of  all  animal  viiicis  is 
heard  occasionally  at  Bunrise  and  sunset,  and  Komo- 
times  in  the  heat  of  the  day,  but  more  frequently 
durng  the  darkness  of  night.  When  near,  the  roar 
is  terrific  ;  a  naturalist  has  comi>artHl  it  to  the  teni- 
])e8t  howling  through  rocky  caverns.  It  is  a  voice  so 
unearthly  that,  heard  unexpectedly  fur  the  first  time, 
it  would  till  the  mind  with  the  most  melancholy  fore- 
bmlings."  * 

"  The  Indians  pretend,"  ob.serves  Humboldt,  that 
when  the  (irwjuatos  fill  the  forest  with  their  bowl- 
ings, there  is  always  one  that  chants  as  leader 
to  the  chorus.  The  observation  is  ]»retty  accurate. 
During  a  long  interval  one  solitary  and  strung  voice 
is  generally  distinguished,  till  its  place  is  taken  by 
another  voice  of  a  ditVcrent  ]iitch.  We  may  ob- 
serve from  time  to  time  the  siime  instinct  of  imita- 
tion among  frogs,  and  almast  all  animals  wh'ch  live 
together  and  exert  their  voices  in  uni'»n.  The  mis- 
sionaries further  assert  that  when  a  female  among 
the  arnfjuatus  is  on  the  jtoint  of  bringing  forlh,  the^ 
choir  suspends  its  bowlings  till  the  moment  of  the 
birth  of  the  young.  I  could  not  myself  judge  of  the 
accuracy  of  this  a.ssertion;  but  I  do  not  believe  it  to 
be  entirely  unfounded.  I  have  observed  that  when 
an  extraordinary  incident — the  moans,  for  instance, 
of  a  wouuded  araguato — fixed  the  attention  of  the 
band,  the  bowlings  were  for  some  minutes  suspended. 

•  Go&KC  :  The  Iloinanco  of  Natural  History. 


MONKEY   NOTIONS.  0^7 

riie  face  of  tliis  pingnlar  monkey  is  nearly  conccfiled 
jy  a  sandy,  Lusliy  beard,  extending  below  and  project- 
ng  eonsiderably  beyond  his  chin,  giving  him  a  very 
lignitied  appearance.  So  striking  is  their  resem- 
jlaiice  to  the  human  species,  that  once,  after  having 
ihot  one,  I  almost  felt  as  though  I  had  committed  a 
nurder.  AN'hen  I  raised  the  poor  creature  from  the 
ground  u])on  which  he  had  fallen,  his  large  grey  eyes 
"cro  bathed  in  tears,  and  every  feature  expressed  the 
ieep3st  agony.  Casting  upon  me  a  most  eloquent 
ook  of  reproach,  he  endeavored  to  push  me  aside ; 
)ut  too  much  enfeebled  by  his  wound,  lay  down  and 
'almly  resigned  himself  to  the  scrutinizing  gaze  of 
ny  English  companions,  who  discussed  and  disputed 
ibout  the  division  of  his  still  panting  body — one 
vanting  the  skin  for  a  smoking  cap  and  the  drum  of 
he  throat  for  the  bowl  of  his  pipe,  while  the  other 
vould  be  contented  v.-ith  nothing  less  than  the  whole 
!arcass.  For  my  ot.ti  part,  I  only  desired  to  get  out 
>f  siglit  of  tiie  dying  creature ;  and  shouldering  my 
jun,  dei)arted  in  a  mood  which  determined  me  never 
igain  to  lift  my  hand  against  these  innocent  wild  men 
»f  the  woods. 

South  America  may  be  said  to  be,  ixir  excellence, 
;he  home  of  the  monkey  tribe.  Besides  the  forego- 
ng,  the  great  forest  south  of  the  pampas  of  Apure  is 
illed  with  the  cries,  yells,  and  roarings  by  night  and 
lay — for  some  are  nocturnal  and  others  diurnal — of 
;ountles3  troops  of  the  various  families  of  these  quad- 
•uraana,  roaming  through  it,  from  the  mysterious 
SalvaJ''  (supposed  by  many  to  bo  a  great  and  power- 
i'ul  monkey,  who,  Gorilla-like,  seizes  upon  defenceless 


2GS  TKAVEl-S  AM)   ADVEXTUKES. 

Women  ami  carrios  them  off  to  Rome  inaccessible  troc 
in  the  lurtst),  down  to  the  tiny  luarniosot,  not  liirf;er 
tlian  a  llyini^-snuitrel,  but  all  ji  issossin^  niurc  or  lens 
that  dej;ree  uf  intelligence  and  cunning  so  nearly  akin 
to  human  instinct.  Some  are  white-faced,  with  the 
rest  of  the  boily  bhick  ;  others  black-faced,  fonning 
a  curious  contrast  witii  a  thick  head  of  hair  j»erfectly 
white.  Bates  observed  on  the  Upper  Amazon  a  very 
rare  sj)ecies  with  a  t^carlet  face,  making  the  animal 
look  i)retty  much  like  an  Indian  bedaubed  with  ar- 
natto,*^  as  is  the  jiractice  of  the  aborigines  in  a  wild 
state.  Some  have  blue  noses  ;  others  a  dark  ring 
around  the  eyes,  giving  the  creature  a  most  ludicrous 
appearance,  as  if  adorned  with  a  pair  of  spectacles. 

In  the  same  region  is  found  another  curious  genus 
of  monkeys,  namely,  the  otcl-faccd  ititjht  opes,  de- 
scribed by  Bates  and  Humboldt  as  Ix-ing  of  small 
size,  the  body  about  a  foot  long  and  the  tail  fourteen 
inches,  and  are  thickly  clothed  with  soft,  grey,  and 
brown  hair,  similar  in  substance  to  that  of  the  rabbit. 
They  sleep  all  day  long  in  hollow  trees,  and  come 
forth  to  jirey  on  insects,  and  eat  fruits,  only  in  the 
night.  Their  jdiysioguomy  reminds  one  of  an  owl,  or 
tiger-cat  ;  the  face  is  round  and  encircled  by  a  ruff 
of  whitish  fur.  Bates  hatl  one  of  these  animals 
given  him  by  a  comjiadrr,  as  a  present  from  his  new- 
ly-baptized gixlson,  and  he  describes  it  as  being  a 
great  favorite  with  every  one,  from  the  cleanliness  of 
its  habits  and  tlio  prettiness  of  its  features  and  ways  ; 

•  The  pulpy  covering  of  tlic  seed;*  of  Dixa  orclltiia. 


MONKEY   NOTIONS.  269 

and  the  MiinicipalJiulge  of  Ega,  Don  Carlos  Mariana, 
had  another  species  of  the  same  genus,  which  was 
most  amusingly  tame,  deHghting  to  bo  caressed  by  all 
persons  who  came  into  the  house,  and  at  night  sleep- 
ing with  his  master  in  his  own  hammock,  and  nestling 
in  his  bosom  half  the  day  as  he  lay  reading. 

A  very  striking  feature  of  most  South  American 
monkeys  is  the  strong  resemblance  they  bear  to  the 
Indian  race,  just  as  those  of  Africa  resemble  the  negro, 
and  those  of  the  Indian  Archipelago  the  Malay  race 
of  men.  Some  of  them  look  so  much  like  Indians, 
that  one  cannot  help  imagining  there  exists  a  near 
relationship  between  these  dwellers  of  the  forest.  The 
capuchin  of  the  Orinoco,  which  Waterton  has  made 
80  celebrated,  under  the  vague  appellation  of  non- 
descript, and  the  titi  of  the  same  locality,  may  bo 
mentioned  as  exceptions  to  the  rule,  the  former  on 
account  of  a  long,  bushy  beard,  and  soft,  glossy  black 
head  of  hair,  nicely  parted  in  the  middle,  like  a  re- 
fined exquisite,  and  the  latter  with  its  finely-modelled 
head  and  most  expressive  features,  which  added  to  a 
high  degree  of  intelligence  and  sprightly  restles.sness 
possessed  by  the  little  creature,  make  it  a  favorite 
pet,  with  ladies  especially,  when  reduced  to  domestic 
life.  The  titi  is  a  medium-sized  monkey,  with  hair  of 
a  g(dden  yellow  ;  and  what  adds  to  its  attraction  as 
a  pet,  is  its  cleanly  habits,  so  unlike  those  of  its  con- 
geners, washing  its  hands  whenever  it  comes  near 
water,  wliich  makes  them  look  at  all  times  like  those 
of  a  wt'U-nursed  child.  But,  woe  to  the  elegantly 
furnished    boudoir,  if  it  should  contrive  to  get  loose, 


,'.S?»"»V. 


208 


TRAVELS  AND   ADVKNTUKES. 


Women  and  carries  them  off  to  poiuc  inaccessible  tree 
in  the  torest),  <lown  to  the  tiny  mannoset,  not  larj;tr 
tli.m  a  llying-S(initrel,  hut  all  possessing  more  or  le&s 
tlmt  Jej;ree  of  intelligence  and  cunning  bo  nearly  akin 
to  human  instinct.  Some  are  white-faced,  with  the 
rest  of  the  botly  black  ;  others  blaick-faced,  forming 
a  curious  contrast  with  a  thick  heiul  of  liair  perfectly 
white.  Bates  observed  on  the  Upper  Amazon  a  very 
rare  species  with  a  scarlet  face,  making  the  animal 
look  j)retty  much  like  an  Indian  bedaubed  with  ar- 
natto,*^  as  is  the  i)ractice  of  the  aborigines  in  a  wild 
state.  Some  have  blue  noses  ;  others  a  dark  ring 
around  the  eyes,  giving  the  creature  a  most  ludicmus 
appearance,  as  if  adorned  with  a  pair  of  spectacles. 

In  the  same  region  is  found  another  curious  genus 
of  monkeys,  namely,  the  otd-faccd  night  apcs^  de- 
scribed by  Bates  and  Humboldt  as  being  of  sni  I'l 
size,  the  body  about  a  fcM)t  long  and  the  tail  fourth 
inches,  and  are  thickly  clothed  with  soft,  grey,  and 
brown  hair,  similar  in  substance  to  that  of  the  rabbit. 
They  sleep  all  day  long  in  hollow  trees,  and  como 
forth  to  jirey  on  insects,  and  eat  fruits,  only  in  the 
night.  Their  physiognomy  reminds  one  of  an  owl,  or 
tiger-cat  ;  the  face  is  round  and  encircled  by  a  niff 
of  whitish  fur.  Bates  had  one  of  these  animals 
given  him  by  a  compadre,  as  a  pre.'H^nt  from  his  new- 
ly-bai)ti/.od  gtxlson,  and  he  describes  it  as  being  a 
great  favorite  with  ever}'  one,  from  the  cleanliness  of 
its  liiil.it-.  and  til--  i.rcf  tliH'ss  of  it s  features  and  woy 8  ; 


vv*v« 


F5«,V^V 


MONKEY   NOTIONS. 


2G0 


and  the  MunicipalJiulgo  of  Ega,  Don  Carlos  Mariana, 
had  another  species  of  the  same  genus,  which  was 
most  amusingly  tame,  delighting  to  be  caressed  by  all 
persons  who  came  into  the  house,  and  at  night  sleep- 
ing with  his  master  in  his  own  hammock,  and  nestling 
in  his  bosom  lialf  tlie  day  as  he  lay  reading. 

A  very  striking  feature  of  most  South  American 
monkeys  is  the  strong  resemblance  they  bear  to  the 
Indian  race,  just  as  those  of  Africa  resemble  the  negro, 
and  those  of  the  Indian  Archipelago  the  Malay  race 
of  men.  Some  of  them  look  so  much  like  Indians, 
that  one  cannot  help  imagining  there  exists  a  near 
relationship  between  these  dwellers  of  the  forest.  The 
capuchin  of  the  Orinoco,  which  Waterton  has  made 
so  celebrated,  under  the  vague  appellation  of  non- 
descript, and  the  titi  of  the  same  locality,  may  be 
mentioned  as  exceptions  to  the  rule,  the  former  on 
account  of  a  long,  bushy  beard,  and  soft,  glossy  black 
head  of  hair,  nicely  parted  in  the  middle,  like  a  re- 
fined exquisite,  and  the  latter  with  its  finely-modelled 
head  and  most  expressive  features,  which  added  to  a 
high  degree  of  intelligence  and  sprightly  restlessness 
possessed  by  the  little  creature,  make  it  a  favorite 
pet,  with  ladies  especially,  when  reduced  to  domestic 
life.  The  titi  is  a  medium-sized  monkey,  with  hair  of 
a  golden  yellow  ;  and  what  adds  to  its  attraction  as 
a  pet,  is  its  cleanly  habits,  so  unlike  those  of  its  con- 
geners, washing  its  hands  whenever  it  comes  near 
water,  which  makes  them  look  at  all  times  like  those 
of  a   WL'll-nursed   child.     But,  woe  to    the   elegantly 


270  TKAVKI-S   AM)   AltVENTLUtS. 

which  it  nften  does  in  spite  of  precautions,  for  it  will 
j)rovc  a  perfect  enfant  Urrihlc  amoiijjst  the  choicest 
trinkets  of  feminine  adornment,  smashing  everything 
within  its  reacli,  and  ex;unining  into  every  nook  and 
corner  of  the  wardrobe  with  jicrfeot  infantile  curiosity. 
On  the  other  hand,  it  will  C(tm])lctely  rid  the  house  of 
spiders  and  other  like  vermin,  for  which  tropical  cli- 
mates arc  famous,  not  even  sparing  the  favorite  song- 
ster in  its  cage,  for  it  is  quite  onmivorous  in  its  tastes. 
Humboldt  relates  of  one  he  kept  in  his  canoe,  during 
his  tedious  exploration  of  these  rivers,  that  it  would 
take  particular  pleasure  in  lo.»king  over  the  plates  of 
a  work  on  Natural  History,  which  the  great  philosopher 
u.sed  to  turn  over  occasionally  for  his  own  and  his  pet's 
annisoment  ;  sitting  itself  on  the  lap  of  its  master,  it 
would  look  intently  on  the  figures  of  the  various  ani- 
mals with  as  much  interest  as  a  cliild  would  evince, 
under  like  circumstances,  but  without  betraying  any 
especial  emotion,  until  it  came  to  the  plate  repa^sent- 
ing  the  insects.  Although  the  engravings  were  not 
colored,  the  titi  would  now  advance  its  little  hand  in 
the  hope  of  catching  a  spider,  a  grasshopper,  or  a 
wasp,  whenever  it  perceived  one  of  these  insects,  of 
which  it  is  particularly  fond.  It  remained  perfectly 
indifferent  when  it  was  shown  engravings  of  skele- 
tons or  heads  of  mammiferous  animals.  *'  Xo  other 
monkey,"  adds  Ilumbuldt,  "  has  so  much  the  pliys- 
iognomy  of  a  child  as  the  titi  ;  there  is  the  same  ex- 
pression of  innocence,  the  same  playful  smile,  the 
Siimc  rajjiility  in  the  transition  from  joy  to  sorrow. 
Its   large,  handsome   eyes   arc    instantly  filled   wiili 


MONKEY   NOTIONS. 


271 


tears  when  it  is  seized  with  fear."  Even  in  tlic  wild 
state,  the  titi  evinces  a  degree  of  cunning  seldom 
found  in  others  of  its  class.  An  instance  of  this  is 
shown  in  the  manner  in  which  it  robs  the  bee  colony 
not  only  of  its  rich  stores  of  sweet  honey,  but  also  of 
its  industrious  tenants  ;  stationing  itself  at  the  mouth 
of  the  beehive — usually  in  the  hollow  branch  of  some 
tree  in  the  forest — the  titi  catches  and  cats  u^)  every 
member  of  the  busy  colony  as  they  go  in  and  out  on 
their  laborious  errands.  When  no  more  insects  can 
be  obtained,  and  knowing  instinctively  that  within 
that  mysterious  abode  i>  to  be  found  something 
sweeter  still,  the  little  imp  diligently  commences  to 
dig  into  the  aperture  until  a  passage  wide  enough  for 
the  hand  is  made,  and  then  commences  the  work  of 
destruetiiin  upon  grubs  and  honey-combs.  Should 
these  be  placed  too  far  down  the  opening  to  be  reach- 
ed with  the  hand,  the  titi  introduces  its  tail — which  is 
considerably  longer  tlian  its  arras — into  the  deposit  of 
honey,  and  withdrawing  it,  well  bedaubed  with  the 
coveted  prize,  commences  to  enjoy  it  with  great  gusto. 

Isidore  Geoffrey  St.  Hilaire  relates  of  another  in- 
dividual of  this  genus,  that  "it  distinguished  between 
different  objects  depicted  on  an  engraving.  M.  Aud- 
ouin  showed  it  the  portraits  of  a  cat  and  a  Avasp  ;  at 
these  it  became  very  much  terrified  ;  whereas,  at  the 
sight  of  a  figure  of  a  grasshopper  or  beetle,  it  precipi- 
tated itself  on  the  picture,  as  if  to  seize  the  objects 
there  represented." 

Bates  mentions  another  rare  species  c»f  tlie  same 
genus,  first  described  by  Humboldt,  which  was,  if  pos- 


0-2  TKAVKI^S   ANI>   ADVENTURES. 

Bible,  inoa-  pliiyful  and  intelligent  than  any  of  the 
precoJing.  '*  This  mre  and  beautiful  little  monkey  is 
only  Keven  inehes  in  length,  exelusive  of  the  tail.  It 
is  named  liuuinus,  on  aecount  of  the  lung  brown  miine 
whieh  depends  from  the  neck,  and  which  gives  it  very 
much  the  ajiiteanincc  of  a  diminutive  lion.  In  the 
house  where  it  was  kept  it  was  familiar  with  every 
one  ;  its  greatest  plejisure  seemed  to  be  to  climb  about 
the  bodies  of  diflferent  j)ersons  who  entered.  The 
first  time  I  went  in,  it  ran  across  the  room  straight- 
way to  the  chair  on  which  I  had  Kit  down,  and 
climbed  up  to  my  shoulder  ;  arrived  there,  it  turned 
round  and  looked  into  n»y  face,  showing  its  little 
teeth,  and  chattering  jus  though  it  would  sjiy,  'Well, 
and  how  do  ijon  do?'  It  showed  more  affection 
toward  its  master  than  toward  stn\ngcrs,  and  would 
climb  up  to  his  head  a  dozen  times  in  the  course  of 
an  hour,  making  a  great  show  every  time  of  searching 
tiiere  for  certain  animalcula." 

The  same  writer  describes  the  ingenious  mode  of 
obtaining  live  specimens,  jvs  practised  by  Indian  hun- 
ters. '•  The  mother,  as  in  either  species  v^  the  monkey 
order,  carries  her  young  on  her  l>ack.  Individuals  arc 
obtained  alive  by  shooting  them  with  the  blow-pij>c 
aiiil  arrows  tipped  with  diluted  urari  poison.  They 
run  a  considerable  distance  after  being  pierced,  and  it 
requires  an  c,xj)v.'rienccHl  hunter  to  track  them.  He 
is  considered  the  most  expert  who  c^m  keep  jwicc  with 
a  wounded  one,  and  catch  it  in  his  arms  when  it  falls 
exhausted.  A  pinch  of  salt,  the  antidote  to  the  i>oison, 
is  then  put  in  its  mouth,  and  the  creature  revives." 


MONKEY  NOTIONS.  273 

As  I  write  this  in  the  quiet  scchision  of  the  coun- 
try, I  hear  among  the  trees  surrounding  one  of  the 
finest  mansions  in  Connecticut,  the  twittering  chatter 
of  another  little  monkey,  or  marmoset,  a  titi  of  the 
coast  of  Cartagena,  which  I  procured  from  hence  not 
long  ago.  It  is  quite  small,  of  a  reddisli-brown  color, 
with  a  face  resembling  more  an  African  negro  (for  it 
is  jet  black)  than  the  aborigines  of  the  opposite 
coast.  A  thick  woolly  coat  of  white  hair  covers  its 
head,  so  that  at  a  distance  the  little  creature  looks  as 
if  ornamented  with  a  cap  of  snow-white  feathers. 
Enjoying  with  myself  the  freedom  of  the  hospitable 
mansitm,  it  is  allowed  to  roam  at  pleasure  among  the 
branches  of  the  trees,  but  as  the  sun  goes  down,  it 
invariably  seeks  the  comforts  of  its  bed,  prepared  by 
its  kind  mistress,  inside  a  market-basket  in  her  own 
room.  Monito — this  is  its  name — is  an  early  riser, 
which  makes  it  rather  inconvenient  for  the  other  in- 
mates of  the  room  ;  for,  alth(^ugh  the  windows  are 
left  open  through  the  night,  it  will  not  stir  until  its 
breakftist  has  been  placed  before  the  little  scamp,  who, 
in  the  meantime,  keeps  such  squealing  and  twittering 
as  to  rouse  "Nini"  and  her  mamma.  Its  hunger 
satisfied,  it  bounds  away  to  the  tree-tops,  leaping 
from  branch  to  branch  with  astonishing  agility,  which 
never  fails  to  attract  a  crowd  of  squirrels,  which, 
mistaking  it  for  one  of  their  tribe,  run  towards  the 
stranger  ;  Imt  no  sooner  do  they  perceive  the  jetty 
phyz  and  snowy  locks  of  Don  Monito,  than,  with  one 
yell  of  astonishment,  and  the  utmost  horror  depicted 
in  their  countenance,  they  scamper  off  to  a  respecta- 


274  TKAVKLS  AND  ADVENTURES. 

bio  tlistutuc.  Then  follows  a  sort  of  inquiring  collfxniv 
Utwei'u  both  parties,  all  (.hattiiij;  at  the  same  tiuK', 
atjcl  iiiakin-;  the  air  resound  all  the  while  with  the 
ehir]»ing  palaver.  It  does  not  get  beyond  this,  how- 
ever, for,  at  the  first  advance  miidc  on  either  side,  one 
of  the  parties,  or  botli,  scamper  off  ingloriously,  thus 
verifying  the  saying — 

"  He  who  figlits  and  runs  away 
Lives  to  fight  another  tlay." 

Not  satisfied  with  the  abundant  fare  of  spiders 
caught  around  the  roof,  Monito  comes  regularly  to 
the  hou.so  at  certain  hours,  to  be  fed  on  more  dainty 
ftxnl,  consisting  of  bits  of  sugar,  cake,  and  delicious 
grajies,  fresh  from  the  gra]>ery,  which  the  tht-ught- 
fnl  ladies  of  the  mansion  have  in  readiness  for  their 
guest.  At  times  it  jiays  a  visit  to  the  laundn'ss,  at 
her  establishment,  for  whom  it  lias  evinced  a  strong 
attachment,  owing,  I  suspect,  to  the  fact  that  siiid 
dame  invariably  treats  the  favorite  to  a  good  slice  i»f 
bread  and  butter,  of  which  it  seems  to  be  very  fond 
also.  Selecting  a  comfortable  place  in  some  corner  of 
the  room,  it  spends  an  hour  or  so  chatting  to  the 
worthy  laundress  all  the  while  in  a  language  only  in- 
telligible to  itself.  I  fear,  however,  that  the  countr}' 
air  of  a  northern  climate  docs  not  quite  agree  with 
the  little  South-American,  for  it  has  been  t>bscrved, 
at  times,  in  the  morning,  shaking  fnmi  head  to  foot, 
and  seeking  some  convenient  place  on  the  nxif  of  the 
piazza,  where  it  can  have  the  full  benefit  of  the  sun's 
rays,  a  sure  sign  of  a  coming  attack  of  chills  and  fever. 


MONKEY  NOTIONS.  075 

This  circumstance^  and  the  fact  of  its  having  become 
more  irritable  and  morose  than  usual,  has  induced  me 
to  procure,  from  a  friend  in  town,  another  small  mon- 
key, in  whose  company  it  came  from  South  America, 
although  of  a  different  species,  to  see  if  the  presence 
of  its  former  associate  will  restore  its  spirits  ;  but  to 
no  purpose,  for,  after  a  fair  trial,  we  find  that  the  at- 
tentions of  this  last,  which  is  a  most  restless  and  mis- 
chievous creature,  })ullinp;  the  invalid's  tail  and  silvery 
tufts  of  hair,  whenever  they  are  brought  together,  in- 
stead of  proving  a  comfort  to  Monito,  throws  it  into 
violent  tits. 

The  monkey  in  question  is  the  cari-hlanco,  white- 
faced,  of  the  River  Sinu,  a  higher  grade  of  ape  than 
the  marmosets,  and  is,  in  consequence,  one  of  the 
most  intelligent  individuals  of  the  family.  It  is  really 
entertaining  to  see  such  a  small  creature  aping  child- 
hood so  well  as  to  amuse  itself  and  the  rest  of  the 
family  whose  hospitality  it  enjoys,  with  a  doll  and 
some  marbles  which  it  stole  from  the  baby  ;  and  one 
of  the  ladies  having  bhown  it  a  musical  toy,  which 
she  blew  to  attract  its  notice,  the  mimicking  crea- 
ture at  once  snatched  the  toy  from  her  hand,  and 
immediately  applied  it  to  its  mouth,  endeavoring  to 
produce  the  same  sounds,  although  without  effect  ; 
whereupon  it  tried  a  like  experiment  on  the  doll — 
which  it  carries  constantly  under  its  arm — but  with 
no  better  results.  Another  source  of  amusement  is 
derived  from  a  kitten  belonging  to  the  baby,  the  sight 
of  which  produced  at  first  as  much  astonishment  and 
curiositv  as  the  interview  between  Monito  and  the 


27r, 


TKAVKI-S   AND   ADVENTURES. 


8(juirrfls  ]ir.iii;^ht  iibout.  Now  they  arc  Osgood  friends 
as  if  tliey  had  known  eaeli  other  a  lifetime  ;  so  uiucli 
80  that  the  baby  Hnds  it  diftienlt  to  separate  her  pussy 
from  the  dreaded  monkey,  which  "Nini"  abominates 
<'ver  since  Monito  bit  her  badly,  for  want  of  experi- 
ence on  her  i»art  in  (U-aliiiL;  \\ith  those  sjiiteful  crea- 
tures. 

It  is  a  fact  worthy  of  notice,  tliat  most  monkeys, 
especially  tliose  of  a  lii<;her  grade,  manifest  on  all  oc- 
casions a  strong  attachment  to  young  animals,  es])e- 
cially  puppies  and  kittens,  caressing  and  handling 
them  with  the  same  care  that  a  human  being  bestows 
on  the  young  of  their  own  kind.  I  once  obtained,  in 
Costa  Kica,  a  large  female  monkey  of  the  ring-tail 
8])ecies,  which,  in  intelligence  and  moncrias  (monkey 
tricks)  surjiasscd  any  creature  of  this  description  1 
have  yet  seen  or  heard  of;  so  much  so  that  Herr  dul- 
ler, a  (icrman  baker  of  San  Jose,  who  owned  the  pet, 
had  given  her  the  name  of  "  Panchita,"  or  Little 
Frances  ;  an<l  so  captivated  was  I  too  by  Miss  Pan- 
chita,  that  I  at  once  entered  into  negotiations  with 
the  baker  for  her  j)urchase.  But  of  this  more  here- 
after in  the  Second  Series  of  these  sketches. 

Well,  said  Panchita  was,  like  the  rest  of  her  class, 
particularly  fond  of  pujipies  ;  but  not  possessing  suf- 
ficient discrimination  to  distinguish  Iwtween  the  ages 
of  animals,  and  judging  of  this  only  through  their 
size,  she  seized,  on  one  occasion,  a  small  poodle,  which 
happened  to  jiass  near  her,  mistaking  it  for  a  Jtuppy, 
and  pressing  it  to  her  breast  with  a]»propriate  demon- 
strations of  motherly  solicitude,  endeavored  to  induce 


MONKEY  NOTIONS.  277 

the  dog  to  avail  itself  of  the  proflfercd  donation  ;  but 
a  bite  from  the  ungrateful  chap  warned  the  would-be 
nurse  of  the  dangers  arising  from  too  close  an  inti- 
macy with  strangers.  Poor  Panchita  !  Having  brought 
her  along  with  me  to  New  York,  and  placed  her  in 
Barnum's  celebrated  boarding-school  for  dumb  beasts 
from  all  parts  of  the  world,  she  shared  the  fate  of  tho 
''Happy  Family"  during  the  disastrous  fire  which 
consumed  that  renowned  establishment. 

As  an  instance  of  the  affection  and  intelligence 
displayed  by  these  singular  creatures,  I  will  mention 
liere  another  South  American  monkey,  from  the  Up- 
per Amazon  river,  of  which  the  indefatigable  collector 
of  natural  history,  Mr.  Bates,  says,  alluding  to  one 
possessed  by  a  neighbor  of  his  at  Ega  :  "  My  friend 
wns  a  tailor,  and  the  little  pet  used  to  spend  the 
greater  part  of  the  day  seated  on  his  shoulder,  while 
he  was  at  work  on  his  board.  It  showed,  neverthe- 
less, great  dislike  to  strangers,  and  was  not  on  good 
terms  with  any  other  member  of  my  friend's  house- 
hold than  himself.  I  saw  no  monkey  that  showed  so 
strong  a  personal  attachment  as  this  gentle,  timid, 
silent  little  creature.  The  eager  and  passionate  Cebi 
seem  to  take  the  lead  of  all  South  American  monkeys 
in  intelligence  and  docility,  and  the  Coaita  has  per- 
haps the  most  gentle  and  imjiressive  disposition  ;  but 
the  Parauacu,  although  a  dull,  cheerless  animal,  ex- 
cels all  in  this  quality  of  capacity  of  attachment  to 
individuals  of  our  own  species.  It  is  not  wanting  in 
intelligence  as  well  as  moral  goodness,  proof  of  which 
was  furnished  one  day  by  an  act  of  our  little  pet.    My 


27S 


TRAVKl.S   AND   AUVENTCUES. 


neiglil)  T  h;i'l  <niitted  liis  house  in  the  raornini;,  with 
out  takiii-;  I'jirauiicii  with  hira,  and  the  little  creature 
havin;;  nui^sc-d  its  friend,  and  conchided,  as  it  seemed, 
that  he  would  be  sure  to  come  to  mc,  both  being  in 
the  habit  of  pnyinf^  me  a  daily  visit  together,  came 
strai;jjht  to  my  dwi-lling,  taking  a  short  cut  over  gju- 
dens,  trees,  and  thickt-ts,  instead  v(  going  the  round- 
about way  of  the  street.  It  had  never  done  this  be- 
fore, and  we  knew  the  route  it  had  taken  only  from  a 
neighbor  having  watched  its  movements.  On  arriving 
at  my  house,  and  not  linding  its  master,  it  climbed  to 
tlie  to])  of  my  table,  and  sat  with  an  air  of  quiet  resig- 
nation waiting  for  him.  Shortly  afterwards  my  friend 
entered,  and  the  gladdened  pet  then  jumped  to  its 
usual  perch  on  his  shouldi'r.' 

I  will  conclude  this  chapter — alreiKly,  I  fear,  tin) 
long — with  some  further  remarks  resj>ecting  the  Snl- 
vcije,  or  "  Wild  Man  of  America,"  as  it  is  called  by  those 
who,  to  this  day,  believe  that  such  nondescript — for  n<i 
one  seems  to  have  ever  seen  it,  except  the  footprints — 
exists  in  the  wilds  of  Venezuela.  Both  Father  Gumilla 
and  Humboldt  allude  to  the  belief  entertained  by  the 
jR'ople  of  those  regions  in  the  existence  of  a  great  an- 
thropoid ape,  which  was  reputed  to  build  Imts,  carry 
off  women,  and  devour  jealous  husbands.  It  is  curi- 
ous, however,  to  sec  how  these  two  great  expounders 
of  nature's  wonders  endeavor  to  solve  the  mystery. 
While  the  jthilosopher  of  the  nineteenth  century  ex 
jdains  the  *' fable,"  as  he  calls  it,  by  suggesting  th- 
existence  in  these  wilds  of  "  one  of  those  large  bear<. 
the   footprints  of  which   reseniltle   those  o{  man.  and 


MONKEY  NOTIONS.  279 

wliich  are  believed  to  cany  off  women/'  the  devout 
jiliilosopher  of  nearly  two  centuries  ago  boldly  ascribes 
the  doings  of  the  dreaded  creature  to  no  other  individ- 
ual than  the  Devil  himself,  ever  anxious  to  do  all  pos- 
sible mischief  among  Christians,  especially  those  of 
the  newly-organized  missions  of  the  Upper  Orinoco 
and  Meta  rivers  ;  in  proof  of  this  the  good  missionary 
father  tells  us  that,  "On  one  occasion,  the  infernal 
voice  was  distinctly  heard  by  Capt.  Don  Domingo  Zor- 
rilla,  a  native  of  Rioja,  in  Spain,  exhorting,  from  the 
to[)  of  a  palm  tree,  the  Gentile  Indians,  who  were 
ready  to  come  out  of  the  forest  and  become  good 
Christians,  not  to  do  it."  And,  adds  the  credulous 
historian  :  "  Alarmed  with  this  terrific  noise,  the 
valiant  captain  inquired  of  the  Christian  cacique  who 
accompanied  him,  from  whence  proceeded  those  fright- 
ful sounds  ?  to  which  the  cacique  replied,  that  these 
were  the  utterances  of  the  Devil,  which  the  captain 
believed  to  be  true,  so  great  was  the  internal  horror 
which  he  felt  ;  and  I  too  believed  it,  by  the  faith  I 
had  in  the  great  veracity  of  said  captain,  and  other 
unmistakable  proofs  I  perceived  afterwards  at  the 
distance  of  only  two  leagues  from  the  river  Uboca,  all 
of  which  happened  on  the  23d  of  February,  1716." 

Notwithstanding  the  strong  faith  entertained  by 
the  narrator  on  the  "  great  veracity  of  the  valiant 
captain,"  I  am  of  opinion  that  the  roar  of  a  well- 
organized  band  of  ararjuatos  was  mistaken  on  this 
occasion  for  the  utterances  of  his  Infernal  Majesty. 

Still,  the  story  of  the  Salvo jc  is  not  altogether 
discredited,  even  by  scientific  men  of  high  standing  ; 


OgO  TRAVELS  AND  ADVESTURF-S. 

nmoiij;  the  hitter  I  mny  mention  the  accomiilishel 
author  of  the  "  Romance  of  Natural  History,''  who 
not  only  questions  the  authority  of  Humboldt  in 
denying  the  existence  of  a  great  anthroj.omorphous 
jnunkey  in  America,  but  boldly  comes  in  pupiwrt  of 
those  who  believe  in  this  possible  phenomena.  I  quote 
his  words  :  "  But  it  miglit  be  permitted,  in  return,  to 
ask  wliat  "  larf^e  bear"  is  known  to  inhabit  Venezue- 
la ;  and  wliether  it  is  true  that  bears'  footsteps  have 
a  sif^nal  resemblance  to  those  of  men  ;  and  tluit  bears 
especially  attack  women.  Is  not  such  a  bear  in  Suuth 
America  quite  as  {gratuitous  as  the  monkey  himself? 
And,  since  species  of  qnadruvmna  are  characteristic 
of  the  forests  of  that  rej^ion,  may  it  not  be  ]><»ssible 
that  some  one  rivallinj;  man  in  stature  and  strenf^th. 
may  there  exist,  as  well  as  in  Africa  and  tlie  Oriental 
Archipclajjjo  ?  The  mif^jhty  gorilla  himself  has  only 
just  been  introduced  to  us."'  ^ 

•  Go.'-'-'io:  The  Romnnoo  of  N.ituml  Hi.-torv— First  Scric!",  p.  2S1. 


CHAPTER  XX. 

AMONG     THE     CROCODILES. 

IIavixg  by  this  time  completed  our  arrangements 
at  Mata  Totumo,  we  broke  up  our  camp  on  the  15th 
of  March  and  departed  for  Los  Laureles,  the  ancient 
site  of  another  cattle  farm,  now  quite  deserted,  on  the 
banks  of  the  river  Matiyurc. 

"We  found  the  liousc  in  ruins,  and  only  a  few  re- 
maining posts  marking  the  boundary  of  the  former 
corrals,  Tlic  first  duty,  therefore,  was  that  of  repair- 
ing tlie  fences,  an  operation  which  necessitated  sev- 
eral days'  hard  labor.  MeauAvhile  I  found  much  en- 
joyment in  exploring  the  woody  banks  of  the  river, 
the  wildness  of  whose  aspect  had  for  me  a  peculiar 
charm.  They  were  my  daily  resort,  where,  encom- 
passed by  the  glorious  solitude,  I  essayed  to  picture 
for  others  those  lovely  scenes  which  still  perfume  the 
shrine  of  memory  in  all  their  dewy  freshness.  To  one 
who  loves  "  the  cool  sequestered  haunts  of  Kature," 
no  si)ot  could  be  more  charming,  nothing  more  in- 
spiring than  to  recline  under  the  venerable  shade  of 
some  wide-branched  guamo  u])looking  to  the  m.any- 


282  TKAVELS  AND  ADVENTUUtS. 

tinted  tlouds  as  they  sweep  in  solemn  majesty  be- 
ncatli  the  blue  veil  of  heaven,  and  sctm  to  melt  into 
the  tree  tups  in  the  distance — trees  whose  pifjanti<- 
height  and  size,  wall  with  ma^nilicent  ve<;etation  the 
steep  banks  rising  on  either  side  of  the  river,  mirrored 
in  its  trancjuil  surface.  The  harsh  scream  of  the 
heron,  or  the  ominous  hootings  of  the  tiger-owl,  alone 
wake  the  echoes  wlierc  else 

"All  tilings  nro  calrji,  aii«l  fdr,  &ud  pa^pive— Earth 
Looks  as  if  lulled  I'poi;  an  OJigcl's  lap 
Into  a  brcathloys,  fk  wy  sleep."' 

Vet  is  thi-;  beantilV.i  nvcr  celebrated  for  the  num- 
ber and  £i?-e  of  its  crocodiles.  As  I  sat  skcfch'ng  (  n 
the  banks,  I  could  perceive  them  gliding  slowly  under 
the  still  M-aters,  the  ni>per  part  of  the  head  alone 
visible,  and  seeming  to  watdi  me  with  an  evil  eye. 
The  beach  being  strewn  with  their  c^^  shells,  I  con- 
cluded this  to  be  a  favorite  resort  with  them  during 
the  breeding  season.  The  female  lays  about  forty 
Cfx^ti  in  a  hole  M'hich  she  digs  in  the  sand,  leaving  to 
the  hot  sun  the  care  of  hatching  them.  These  vpf:^', 
twice  as  large  as  tho?c  of  the  turkey,  are  considered  a 
great  delicacy  by  the  Indians  and  jaguars,  who  fre- 
ijuently  purloin  them  before  they  arc  hatched. 

The  rarirari  is  another  great  enemy  of  young  croc- 
(•dilcs,  attacking  them  as  they  come  out  of  the  shell. 
After  they  betake  themselves  to  the  water,  the  older 
ones,  promi>tcd  no  doubt  by  motives  of  family  pride 
to  keep  the!M  within  their  own  circle,  swallow  these 
tender  members,  thus  preventing  all  other  intimacies. 
Notwithstanding  this  a<lmirable  provision  of  TUvine 


AMONG  THE   CROCODILES. 


>83 


Wisdom,  and  a  constant  Avar  maintained  by  man  and 
beast  against  tlicm,  tlu-y  are  so  numerous  in  some 
cbiu-cos  of  tlic  river  that,  11'  stationary,  tbeir  bodies 


\vould  completely  bridge   its   surface  from  bank  to 
bank. 

Despite  their  great  voracity,  the  mother  exhibits 
some  degree  of  tenderness  toward  her  oftsprnig.  Pos- 
sessed, in  this  case,  of  an  instinct  almost  infallible, 
she  returns  at  a  period  when  incubation  is  completed, 
and  assists  her  young  in  extricating  themselves  from 
the  sheU,  Unlike  the  eggs  of  birds,  crocodiles'  eggs 
are  soft  and  pliable  as  those  of  the  turtle,  yielding, 
when  handled,  to  the  pressure  of  the  fingers,  yet  so 
tough  that  it  is  difficult  to  break  them,  and  in  ap- 
pearance resembling  white  parchment.  At  the  very 
moment  of  liberation,  the  young  crocodiles  display 
tlieir  savage  nature  in  a  wonderful  degree,  biting  at 
ever}'  object  within  reaeli ;  also  the  same  vicious  pro- 
pensity is  exhibited  by  those  extricated  even  before 
the  cjunjlution  of  incubation.  I  was  once  greatly 
amused  in  watching  a  struggle  between  two  caricaris 


284  TRAVELS  AM)   ADVENTURES. 

and  one  of  tlK'.=e  yonnf!:fitcr8  not  larper  than  a  fjood- 
pizctl  lizard.  Each  time  the  birds  made  a  da>h  at 
him,  this  little  saurian,  •^nintin';  savagely,  darted  for- 
■Nvard  with  wide-open  jaw.^,  looking  tor  all  the  world 
like  a  young  dragon.  During  ten  minutes  the  strug- 
gle continued  without  decided  advantage  on  either 
side,  when  one  of  the  assiulants,  changing  his  tactici*, 
Buddeidy  seized  the  crocodile  by  the  neck  with  his 
sharp  claws  and  soared  triuni]>hantly  with  him  into 
high  air.  There  loosing  liis  hold,  the  bird  followed 
his  descent  with  wonderful  rnjiidity,  prepared,  when 
he  reached  the  ground,  to  repeat  the  blow ;  but 
already  half  stunned,  the  victim  soon  yielded  to  su- 
perior cunning. 

When  the  savannas  are  overflowed  by  the  swollen 
rivers,  these  caniivorons  and  malicious  reptiles  spread 
tliemselves  over  the  face  of  the  country,  committing 
great  havoc  among  young  animals.  So  destructive 
had  they  proved  to  the  calves  and  foals  on  this  estate, 
that  the  owner  on  one  occasion  oifered  a  reward  of 
half  a  dollar  a  head  for  every  crocodile  killed  upon  his 
lands,  it  being  suflicient  lor  the  claimant  to  jtroduce, 
in  evidence  of  success,  the  two  great  tusks  of  the 
u|>pcr  jaws.  Tlie  result  of  this  ulas<'  was,  that  before 
the  ex]iiration  of  a  month,  more  than  four  hundred 
crocodiles  had  been  destroyed  ;  yet  no  sensible  dimi- 
nution was  observable,  neither  did  the  persevering 
dragonade  against  them  quench  in  the  least  their 
boldness.  This  cxpe^lient  proving  useless,  they  ha<l 
been  sulTcrcd  to  remain  unmolested  until  our  arrival 
at  Los  I.aurcles,  when  we  ditcnnincxJ  to  extenniiint( 
those  at  least  which  infc.-ted  that  pass  of  the  river 


AMONG  THE    CROCODILES.  285 

where  we  performed  our  daily  ablutions  and  watered 
the  horses.  Accordingly,  one  day  a  party  of  us,  well 
provided  with  every  necessary,  started  for  a  bend  of 
the  river  where  the  water  appeared  to  be  very  still 
and  deep.  None  of  the  usual  an<;ling  implements 
were  recpiired  in  this  sport ;  we  used  only  a  strong 
hizo  and  a  hoop  about  three  feet  in  diameter  made 
from  a  light  vine  common  on  the  banks  of  these 
rivers.  Around  this  hoop  the  fresh  lungs  of  a  bul- 
lock, cut  into  thin  strips,  were  twisted  and  securely 
fastened.  The  running  noose  of  the  lazo  was  then 
laid  over  the  bait  and  tied  there  with  tendrils  from 
the  same  vine.  All  being  ready,  this  simple  decoy 
was  launched  into  the  middle  of  the  stream,  we  re- 
taining on  shore  the  other  end  of  the  lazo.  Aroused 
by  the  splash,  two  large  crocodiles  soon  a])peared  and 
rushed  for  the  bait  with  open  jaws.  The  successful 
one,  in  his  eagerness  to  escape  with  his  prize,  burst 
the  slender  vines  that  secured  the  noose  to  the  hoop, 
which  last  projected  beyond  his  snout,  and  the  noose 
on  its  recoil  sliding  over,  firmly  lazoed  his  upper  jaw. 
With  shouts  of  exultation  we  hastened  to  the  assist- 
ance of  the  man  who  held  the  lazo,  seeing  him  unable 
to  cope  with  the  monster,  more  than  a  match  for  half 
a  dozen  men.  By  our  united  eftbrts  we  finally  suc- 
ceeded in  dragging  him  to  within  a  few  feet  of  the 
embankment,  when,  catching  sight  of  our  earnest 
faces  watching  him  over  the  cliff",  he  tossed  up  his. 
head  with  such  sudden  violence  as  to  pull  tlie  thong 
through  our  hands  to  its  full  length,  and  retreated  in 
triumph  to  the  middle  of  the  stream.  The  tough 
hide,  however,  from  which   the   thong  was  tvv'isted, 


o^(J  TKAVKUS   AM)    ADVENTURE?*. 

proved  equal  to  the  cmcrgcney,  and  with  one  nion' 
Btrfiiuous  I'fVort  we  buccfcdtj  in  landing  him  \ij n;i 
the  bench,  while 

"  Lv  flot  qui  I'lipf^rta,  recule  epouvantv."' 

Some  of  us  who  never  before  had  t-o  near  a  view 
of  these  vicious  crcatiires,  wt-re  astonished  at  its  size 
and  strength,  and  our  Ki-culajtius,  aisuniing  an  ajtpear- 
anee  of  bravery,  approached  among  the  tirht  to  con- 
temj»late  the  vancpiished  foe,  but  evidently  quaking 
with  a])prehension  of  the  huge  tusks  before  him.  His 
terror  at  length  proving  stronger  than  the  dread  of 
his  companions'  gibes,  he  seized  the  lazo,  tugging 
with  such  desperate  energy  to  close  the  fearfid  chasm 
that  the  thong  slipjud  from  his  hands,  he  lost  his 
balance,  and  the  next  moment  found  himself  lying 
almost  within  reach  of  the  still  c»pen  jaws.  From 
these,  notwithstanding  a  considerable  corporeal  im- 
jicdiment,  he  escajied  by  s]>ringing  with  the  agility  of 
a  cat  up  the  embankment,  where  he  remained,  ])ci- 
haps  to  ascertain  whether  the  poet's  statement  that 
"  distance  lends  enchantment  to  the  view,"  was  cor- 
rect by  the  crocodile  case  before  him.  At  length  the 
f»bject  of  his  regards  almost  ceased  struggling,  sure 
sign  that  his  strength  was  failing ;  then  with  one 
more  pull  we  hauled  him  jiartially  out  of  water,  but 
no  jtower  could  force  him  entirely  therefrom,  as  each 
time  on  reaching  the  bank  he  braced  his  fore  feet  with 
imcomnierable  strength  against  it.  so  forcing  himself 
back  into  the  stream.  In  this  jtrcdicament  we  had  no 
other  resource  than  to  despatch  him,  and  two  or  three 
shar]>  blows  of  a  hatchet  administered  by  the  rogiufch 


AMONG  THE    CROCODILES.  287 

Eoseliano,  severed  the  nppcr  jaw,  with  its  beautiful 
row  of  teeth,  froui  the  head,  a  surgieal  operation  per- 
formed under  the  supervision  of  our  eminent  Escuhi- 
pius.  The  patient  expired — no  doubt  to  the  Doctor's 
relief — not  on  his  hands,  and  the  "  subject "  was 
abandoned  to  the  myriads  of  caribes  which,  altliough 
their  teeth  could  produce  little  impression  upon  his 
tough  cuirass,  feasted  with  avidity  on  his  blood  so 
long  as  it  llowed  from  his  iviutilated  head. 

^\'e  prepared  a  large  su]>p]y  of  bait  in  like  manner 
to  tlie  former,  all  of  which  was  seized  by  the  hungry 
crocodiles  with  the  same  fatal  results  to  them.  In  the 
short  space  of  three  hours  we  succeeded  in  killing 
six  large  ones,  and  could  no  doubt  have  destroyed  a 
greater  number,  had  not  the  lazo  been  gnawed 
through  by  caribes,  that  pest  of  all  rivers  in  this 
region. 

The  Indians  of  the  Orinoco  river,  where  the  croc- 
odiles are  said  to  be  still  larger  and  more  savage,  if 
possible,  than  those  of  its  tributary  streams,  make  use 
of  other  devices  for  riddug  themselves  of  those  at  least 
that  infest  the  places  frequented  by  them.  One  of 
these  contrivances  is  as  novel  as  most  of  the  produc- 
tions of  their  fertile  imaginations  are  for  ministering 
to  their  wants,  and  consists  in  shooting  at  the  mon- 
sters' eyes  arrows  tipped  with  a  wihl  cane  said  to  be 
very  poisonous  to  crocodiles,  so  much  so  that  a  few 
minutes  after  they  are  seen  floating  on  the  water  quite 
dead.  Another  device,  equally  eftective,  consists  in 
securing  a  strong  rope,  or  lazo,  to  the  middle  of  a  short 
but  stout  stick  of  hard  wood,  which  is  then  covered  up 
with  a  large  fish  or  piece  of  meat,  and  thrown  in  the 


2S8  TKAVEl-S  AND   ADVKNTURES. 

water  :  not  many  minutes  elaj)§e  before  the  crocodile 
Bt'i/fs  and  swallows  the  Uiit,  stake  and  all,  when  it  is 
quickly  hauled  on  shore  by  meuus  of  the  lazo  in  the 
hands  of  the  Indians. 

By  way  of  sport,  these  jjeople  avail  thoraselves  of 
the  same  artifice  to  torcar,  as  they  call  it,  a  crocodile 
on  shore  when  sunning  itself,  but  this  time  without 
the  bait,  as  the  man  alone  is  sullicient  allurement  to 
rouse  the  monster's  aj)petite,  esjiecially  if  it  is  a  man- 
eater  (rtbado)^  the  only  improvement  made  on  the 
stake  being  that  uf  shaq)ening  both  ends  of  it.  The 
Indian  now  seizes  the  stick  l)y  the  middle,  and  fear- 
les.sly  approaches  the  crocodile,  which  at  once  makes  a 
dash  at  its  antagonist  with  its  jaws  wide  open;  but 
the  toreador  easily  evades  the  onset  by  stepping  a*ide 
a  little,  as  the  reptile,  on  account  of  the  configuration 
of  its  spine,  cannot  turn  round  upon  him,  except  after 
describing  a  long  circle ;  a  second  and  a  thinl  onset 
arc  equally  unsuccessful,  as  the  sportsman  purj>osely 
avoids  the  collision  by  moving  off  when  the  animal 
comes  up  close  to  him.  Having  by  this  time  proved 
his  dexterity  the  Indian  gives  it  the  roup  de  grace 
by  plunging  the  stick  in  a  vertical  ]>osition  into  the 
ghastly  jaws  of  the  fierce  monster,  which,  feeling  con- 
fident of  crushing  its  enemy  this  time  between  its 
powerful  tusks,  shuts  them  with  a  crash  which  only 
assists  in  forcing  both  ends  of  the  stake  into  the  up- 
per and  lower  jaws  ;  thus  transfixed,  the  once  terror 
of  the  river  now  becomes  the  sjxirt  of  the  Indian 
boys,  who  eagerly  seize  upon  the  thong,  and  ignomin- 
iously  drag  the  reptile  powerless  over  the  sand, 

(->ur  men  secured  a  large  supply  of  fat  from  tlu* 


AMONG  THE    CROCODILES.  289 

intestinal  membrane  of  the  eroeodiles :  a  sovereign 
remedy  for  bruit^es  and  cutaneous  diseases  among 
liorses.  By  exposing  this  fat  to  the  sun,  in  horns 
sHglitly  punctured  at  the  end,  a  fine  oil  equal  to  that 
of  the  Avhale,  is  obtained  by  percolation  and  collected 
in  basins  placed  under  the  horns. 

Selecting  the  jaws  of  the  dead  crocodiles  contain- 
ing the  finest  tusks,  we  distributed  the  latter  among 
our  t'riends  for  tinder  boxes  and  aniuUts.  It  is  uni- 
versally believed  throughout  the  LUiuos  that  the 
tusks,  when  worn  next  the  flesh  of  man  or  beast,  will 
preserve  the  wearer  from  the  poison  of  snakes,  espe- 
cially if  obtained  on  Good  Friday.  For  this  reason 
the  smaller  ones,  set  in  gold  or  silver,  are  worn  sus- 
pended from  the  rosaries  which  form  one  of  the  prin- 
ci[)al  ornaments  of  the  people  in  those  parts.  It  is 
further  believed  that  rings  made  of  the  same  material 
will  apprise  the  wearer,  of  poison  mixed  in  any 
draught  by  causing  an  instantaneous  efterveseence 
of  the  liquid.  The  supposed  efficacy  of  these  poten- 
tial talismans  was  once  peculiarly  tested  in  our  own 
ivnnp. 

Among  the  few  luxuries  carried  by  our  commis- 
pariat  into  the  Llanos  was  a  basket  of  champagne, 
which  was  reserved  for  state  occasions.  One  after- 
noon, while  almost  every  person  was  enjoying  his 
siesta,  the  temptation  seized  one  of  our  men  to  search 
fur  aguardiente  among  the  jKtacas.  His  good  fortune 
discovered  to  him  our  little  treasure  of  champagne, 
and  grabbing  a  botth)  he  at  once  commenced  cutting 
with  his  dagger  the  wires  that  secured  the  cork.  Up 
this  flew  at  last  with  a  loud  report,  which  broke  the 


21)0  TKAVLUS  AM)   AUVKNTL'Klii. 

(lead  t^ilonco  of  the  camp  and  started  to  their  feet 
ni<*re  than  one  drowi?y  bhunberer. 

Our  thief,  seeing  tlie  ]>rofiifee  elVerve.-eeneepishin«> 
out  with  great  force,  endeavored  at  first  to  arrest  it 
by  cla]>pini^  his  liands  over  tlie  month  of  the  bottle; 
but  suddenly  recollecting  that  he  had  on  one  of  those 
mystcrions  tuslc-rings,  the  sui^picion  flashed  to  hi^ 
mind  of  jioison  intended  for  il  amo,  the  master;  and 
when  in  addition  to  this  the  bewildered  knave  j)er- 
ceivcd  that  ajiparently  the  more  he  endeavored  to 
confine  the  li(|uid,  60  much  more  it  frothed  and  bub- 
bled, he  was  overjiowercd  with  terror,  shrieking  out 
in  an  ecstasy  of  horror,  "  Ave  Maria  rurisima ! 
Help!  Help!  cristianos ;  this  njruardiente  must  be 
poisoned,  or  else  the  devil  is  in  it." 

On  hearing  these  cries,  every  one  sprang  from  his 
hammock,  imagining  the  camp  attacked  by  a  band 
of  7/ial/itchores,  and  the  would-be  thief  was  thus 
caught  in  the  very  act. 

As  he  was,  however,  out  of  his  Mits  with  fright, 
lie  csca]>ed  with  only  a  mild  reprimand,  the  nunc 
especially  that  we  enjoyed  several  hearty  laughs  at 
his  expense.  Futile  were  our  eflV»rts  at  convincing 
the  frightened  fellow  that  champagne  was  very  good 
drink  ;  he  evidently  distrusted  all  uur  assertions. 
Some  was  then  poured  out  and  drank,  and  the  l)ottIe 
]»assed  round  ;  but  when  it  came  to  his  turn,  he  per- 
sistently refused  to  touch  it.  On  being  asked  whether 
his  surprise  and  repugnance  arose  from  seeing  the 
liquid  rushing  out  of  the  bottle,  his  reply  was,  "  Oh, 
no,  Sruons  ;  I  am  not  surprised  to  see  it  coming  out, 
but  how  the  devil  did  it  crct  in  ?  " 


AMONG  TUK    CROCODILES.  291 

"Witli  the  intention  of  finisliing  a  sketch  of  one  of 
the  crocodiles,  I  next  day  revisited  tlie  hattlc  field, 
and  to  my  surprise  discovered  the  ahsence  of  one  of 
the  dead  bodies  ;  but  presently  perceived  the  mailed 
carcass  floating  at  some  distance  on  the  water.  I  was 
for  some  time  at  a  loss  to  discover  what  had  occa- 
sioned his  change  of  position,  and  I  finally  concluded 
that  its  comrades  must  have  given  him  honorable  in- 
terment in  the  deep.  Desiring  to  ascertain,  if  pos- 
sible, the  facts  of  the  case,  I  deteraiined  to  conceal 
myself  near  by  and  keep  close  watch.  I  had  been  in 
hiding  only  a  few  moments  when  at  least  half  a 
dozen  crocodiles  approached  the  deceased,  not,  as  I 
had  imagined,  to  mourn  his  loss,  but  to  feas^  upon 
the  many  iish  in  their  turn  gorging  themselves  upon 
the  body.  Then,  almost  to  my  horror,  I  beheld  these 
monster  insatiatcs  rend  in  pieces  and  devour  the  mel- 
ancholy remains  of  the  dear  defunct  with  grunts  of 
revolting  satisfaction.  Is  or  did  I  perceive  in  this  case 
any  of  those  "  crocodile  tears  "  with  which  travellers 
tell  us  it  is  their  hypocritical  habit  to  bedew  the  head 
of  a  human  victim.  It  is  said  that  when  they  have 
devoured  a  man,  finding  themselves  unable  to  swal- 
low his  head,  they  convey  it  to  some  secluded  spot 
on  the  river  banks,  there  to  weep  over  and  bewail 
their  inability  with  cries  which  make  night  hideous. 

The  size  and  appearance  of  crocodiles  must  be 
sometimes  most  extraordinary,  if  we  may  credit  our 
adventurous  friend  B.,  who  boasted  so  intimate  an 
acquaintance  with  their  habits,  that  one  could  easily 
imagine  such  familiarity  might  breed  contempt. 
Judge,  O  reader,  if  I  speak  not  truly. 


2[I2  THAVELS   AM)   ADVENTURES. 

He  rolfttod  that  one  day,  having  labored  puc((>>- 
fuUy  until  noon  in  his  iiiscatory  juirhuit,  overcome 
by  fatigue  and  the  intense  heat  of  a  tropieal  sun,  he 
turned  his  longing  eyes  toward  ghore  in  seareh  of 
lioinc  friendly  shelter ;  but  perceiving  that,  between 
him  and  the  only  copse  of  trees  which  relieved  the 
glaring  scene,  there  stretched  a  dreary  waste  of  burn- 
ing sand,  he  had  not  courage  to  traverse,  even  to  reach 
so  tem])ting  a  goal — he  sought  a  refuge  more  acces- 
sible. This  to  his  great  joy  he  ju^t  then  <lisc(»vcred  in 
the  form  of  what  appeared  to  be  the  wreck  of  an  old 
canoe  thrown  on  its  side  near  the  water's  edge.  Here 
was  a  cool  retreat  wherein  to  enjoy  his  siesta  ;  so 
liastei^ing  toward  it,  his  satisfaction  was  complete  on 
finding  it  sufticiently  cai)acious  to  admit  of  slinging 
to  the  i)rotruding  ribs  his  chin<:horro^  or  grass  ham- 
nioc-k,  which,  with  his  guitar  and  gourd  of  aguar- 
diente, were  his  inseparable  companions.  Refre.-hing 
himself  with  a  good  })ull  at  the  gourd,  and  stretehing 
himself  in  his  hammock,  he  soon  slei>t  the  profound 
sleep  of  the  weary.  lie  awoke  to  find  himself  envel- 
oped in  a  darkness  which  he  might  have  supposed 
that  of  midnight,  but  that  it  was  unrelieved  by  moon 
or  friendly  star.  Completely  bewildered,  he  sought 
a  clew  to  this  dark  mystery  by  moving  forward  with 
cautious  steps  and  extended  liands,  uncertain  into 
what  liorror  his  nc.\l  movement  might  betray  him, 
when  his  surprised  attention  was  attracted,  first  to 
the  spongy  nature  of  the  ground,  then  to  the  clammy 
yet  warm  and  sticky  walls  that  on  iJl  sides  eiicoun- 
tered  his  extended  fingers.  TIiq  discovery  of  these 
facts  was  accompanied  by  the  xcry  unpleasant  con- 


AMONG  THE  CROCODILES.  293 

Tiction  that  he  liad  mistaken  the  open  jaws  of  some 
sleeping  crocodile  lor  an  old  bongo.  However,  with 
his  recovery  from  the  first  shock  of  surprise  returned 
the  stoicism  so  characteristic  of  his  race,  which  was 
the  more  entirely  reinstated  by  finding  his  well-filled 
gourd  with  his  beloved  guitar  lying  near.  Notwith- 
standing, however,  a  reviving  draught  from  the  for- 
mer, he  soon  became  conscious  of  a  void  in  his  inter- 
nal economy,  which  he  at  once  determined  to  fill  at 
Mr.  Crocodile's  expense  ;  thereupon  drawing  liis 
knife,  he  without  the  least  compunction  made  a  meal 
from  the  tenderest  morsels  within  reach.  And  so 
eating,  drinking,  sleeping  and  tuning  his  diminutive 
guitar  to  the  cheering  strains  of  some  lively  ballad  of 
the  Llanos,  he  remained  for  days,  he  knew  not  how 
many,  an  uncomplaining  prisoner  within  those  slimy 
walls.  At  length,  while  mournfully  draining  the  last 
remaining  drop  within  his  faithful  gourd,  his  dungeon 
walls  were  suddenly  made  visible  to  him  by  a  faint 
ray  of  light  which  penetrated  his  very  soul  with  the 
desire  once  more  to  behold  its  source.  Snatching  at 
the  dear  companions  of  his  imprisonment,  without 
another  moment's  delay  he  i-ushed  for  the  opening 
that  admitted  the  life-giving  ray,  and  discovered  to 
his  delighted  surprise  that  his  jailer,  having  deserted 
the  water  for  a  siesta  upon  the  sands — which  he  recol- 
lected was  the  occasional  habit  of  these  monsters — 
had  left  wide-open  his  prison  doors.  These  he  lost 
no  time  in  passing,  seizing  with  firm  hand  as  he  flew, 
his  chhu'/iorro,  still  suspended  from  the  crocodile's 
tusks  he  had  so  almost  fatally  mistaken  for  the  ribs 
of  an  old  canoe. 


''^•.-:*'''"Z3 


sr-T-iAr*:    !.^    '  .'T^  •'^    I   r"g^  ^'^^ 


V     ■!  nxwri 


ittttr    fiati)^'     tt*'. 


LTC--   Tra!_-:.'^jr3t 


'2<»0  THAVEI-S   AND   ADVF.XTLTIES. 

lubvriiith  and  (lia<r.t,nnp:  tliencc  l>y  sheer  force  a  nnni- 
bcr  I'f  the  rL-lni<t«»rv  brntejj.  AlttT  dcliberatiuii.  it 
v,as  tlccidcd  that  fieverul  of  tlic  hunters  hhould  tcour 
tl.f  i.laiii  ill  Bcarcli  of  the  runaways,  while  the  larger 
imiuber  luslieil  a^'ain  fearlessly  into  the  jiinj;le. 
'Hiesc  at  last  sueeeedrd  in  securing  eeveral  fierce 
luills,  each  of  whieh  vrus  treated  secundum  arf'Wy  de- 
priving thcni  of  the  chance  of  doing  much  niiechiof  in 
future  ;  fur  no  sooner  were  they  down,  tlian  the  knife 
and  the  Haw  were  busy  with  their  honig,  ears,  S:r. 
Rut  the  buhineiB  was  not  nceonji>lished  witliout  tin- 
r.  iu.l  avLiTgeof  casualties  in  these  contests,  and  on 
that  »'((a-ion  one  of  our  best  hands  was  greatly  im- 
perilled. A  ferocious  bull  was  undergoing  the  usual 
])rccautionarv,  though  severe  measures,  for  his  sub- 
ji'.galion,  when  one  of  the  men  standing  near,  acci- 
dor.:ally  became  entangled  in  the  coils  of  the  lazo  at 
a  moment  when  the  bull,  infuriated,  escajied  from 
those  who  held  him.  Tlie  poor  fellow,  although 
thrown  violently  to  the  ground  and  severely  stunned, 
almost  miraculously  escaped  further  injury.  The 
daring  Sanniento,  one  of  those  who  witnessed  tli- 
transaction,  enraged  at  sight  of  his  heljdess  comjian- 
ion,  sprang  from  his  horse,  seized  the  sheep-ski:, 
which  covered  the  saddle,  and  holding  it  before  him- 
self, fearlessly  advanced  sword  in  hand  to  meet  the 
bull,  wbicli,  not  comprehending  the  challenge,  stood 
panting  r-.nd  trembling  with  rage  before  his  bold  ad- 
versary, llic  matador  perceiving  this,  approached 
him  more  cloirely  and  shook  the  sheep-skin  in  the 
unimars  face;  then,  firm  as  a  rock,  he  stood  and 
duuntlessly   awaite<l    the   coming    stniggle ;    it    wa> 


THE  CIMARRONERA.  207 

enougli  ;  witli  lioad  lowered  to  tlie  rrronnd,  and  lash- 
ing himself  furiously  with  his  powerful  tail,  the  hull 
rushed  upon  his  antagonist  with  a  terrific  roar,  causing 
every  heart  to  trenihle  for  the  safety  of  the  bold  mat- 
ador. Then  we  heard  a  heavy  fall,  a  deep  groan  ; 
we  saw  only  a  cloud  of  dust  that  concealed  the  scene ; 
hut  we  knew  the  Llanero  had  conquered.  Trium- 
])hant  shouts  of  approbation  filled  the  air,  whilst  I 
kni'w  not  whether  most  to  applaud  the  fearless  grace 
with  which  the  man  had  stood  his  gronnd  before  this, 
the  most  powerful  of  all  infuriate  creatures,  or  the 
dexterous  celerity  that  had  found,  and  with  one  fatal 
blow  penetrated,  the  narrow  passage  through  the  ver- 
tebra? into  the  spinal  maiTOw.  But  the  scene  in  that 
remote  corner  of  the  earth  recalled  forcibly  to  my 
mind  the  spirited  lines  in  which  the  author  of  Childe 
Harold  thus  depicts  one  of  like  nature  in  the  midst 
of  refined  Europe  : 

"  Foiled,  blooding,  brcathlcs^s,  furious  to  the  last, 
Full  in  the  centre  stands  the  bull  at  bay 
MiJ  wounds  and  clinging  darts  and  lances  brast, 
And  foes  disabled  in  tlie  brutal  fray  : 
And  now  the  matadors  around  him  play, 
Shake  the  red  cloak,  and  poise  the  ready  brand  : 
Once  more  through  all  he  bursts  his  thundering  way- 
Vain  rage  !  the  mantle  quits  the  conynge  hand, 
Wraps  his  fierce  eye — 'tis  i)ast — he  sinks  upon  the  syind  !  " 


Those  who  had  galloped  off  in  search  of  the  scat- 
tered herd  finally  returned,  bringing  a  large  addition 
to  the  stock,  and  we  were  driving  them  to  the  pa ra- 
(Icro^  when  our  Leader's  liorsc,  a  fiery  charger  of  the 


208  TRAVELS  AND  ADVKNTIRES. 

Goftf^iro  breed,*  little  ftccustomed  to  the  broken 
prouiul  vf  the  pampii*,  lust  his  footing  and  fell  with 
him  while  endeavoring  to  clear  an  extensive  terra- 
furo.  Fortunately  his  rider  received  no  injury  ;  but 
loosing  hold  of  the  bridle  in  his  full,  the  horj^e  was 
soon  careering  over  the  plain,  and  would  inevitably 
have  made  good  his  escape,  had  not  some  vaqnei-os 
hunting  in  that  direction  eucountered  and  caj>tured 
him  after  a  long  race.  Accident.'?  of  the  kind  are 
very  common  in  the  Llanos,  and  often  in  consccpience 
many  persons  are  killed  or  otherwise  injure<l.  The 
least  evil  to  which  the  ousted  rider  may  be  subjected, 
is  that  of  being  left  alone,  ])erhap8  with  a  dislocatt'd 
limb,  on  an  extensive  plain,  where  the  nnfortnnato 
may  j)crish  from  hunger  or  exposure  before  assistance 
chances  to  reach  him.  Our  friend  B.,  who  once 
found  himself  similarly  circumstanced,  related  to  ns 
on  thii5  ofcaL^ion  the  adventure,  which  he  swore  by 
all  tlic  saints  in  tho  calendnr  had  actually  occurrol 
to  him.  Kotwithstanding  such  exalted  referees,  a 
few  grains  of  doubt  still  disturbed  our  belief. 

*'  lie  was  once,"  he  said,  "  engaged  in  hnnting 
with  a  party  of  vaqucros  on  the  extensive  savannas 
of  Merecure,  which  form  the  great  cnjon  or  pnni]»a 
between  the  rivers  Cnnavichc  and  Arauca.  Having 
started  in  the  morning  with  a  full  complement  of 
mjjn,  there  was  no  dilncnlty  in  forming  the  rofffo  ; 
but,  as  in  our  own  case,  all  their  manoeuvres  prove<l 
inclTectUiil  in  k'^cping  together  so  great  a  number  of 
untamed    brutes,   wliich    finally    broke   through   the 

•  Raised  by  a  ivarliko  triJ>o  of  Indiana  inhabiUng  the  pctinsuU  of 
IjB  GcKigSi^  on  Uic  Gulf  of  MarncailK). 


THE   CIMAKRONERA.  299 

ranks  as  easily  as  might  a  herd  of  wild  hogs  through 
a  field  of  reeds,  and  vanished  in  the  distance.  So 
great  was  the  cloud  of  dust  thej  raised,  that  when  it 
cleared,  B.,  whose  horse  during  the  confusion  had 
stumbled  in  the  hole  of  a  prairie-owl,  thrown,  and 
then  deserted  him,  found  himself  solus  in  the  midst 
of  the  wide  pampa,  and  so  bewildered  and  confused 
by  the  general  stampede,  that  he  was  totally  unable 
to  discover  the  least  clew  by  which  to  guide  his  steps 
over  those  trackless  wilds.  Overcome  with  the  fa- 
tigue of  his  useless  search,  he  threw  himself  upon  tho 
ground,  finally  quite  disheartened  by  the  recollection 
that  he  had  no  lazo  by  which  he  would  have  been 
enabled  at  any  time  to  secure  suflicient  animal  food 
for  his  subsistence.  Two  whole  days  he  thus  passed 
hopelessly  wandering  and  in  search  of  food,  when, 
upon  the  third,  kind  Providence,  compassionating  his 
sufferings,  placed  in  liis  way  a  fat  calf,  which  he  suc- 
ceeded in  capturing  after  a  short  chase.  Having 
slaughtered  it,  he  roasted  the  whole  at  once  lest  it 
might  spoil,  then  ravenously  devoured  the  welcome 
repast.  This  supply  lasted  several  days,  when  again 
finding  himself  minus  food,  he  determined  to  put  in 
practice  a  stratagem  that  he  had  devised  whereby  to 
secure  for  himself  in  future  an  unfailing  supply 
of  wholesome  nourishment.  He  had  observed  the 
mother  of  the  calf,  apparently  in  search  of  her  off- 
spring, lingering  in  the  neighborhood,  moaning  and 
bellowing  in  a  most  piteous  manner.  Availing  him- 
self of  the  first  eligible  opportunity,  he  approached 
her  on  all  fours,  entirely  covered  with  the  skin  of  her 
own  calf,  and  forthwith  commenced  drawing  suste- 


300  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES. 

nance  from  tlie  maternal  fount ;  tliis  ho  accomjiliphed 
witli  H»  much  natural  ease  and  jrrace,  that  the  temhr 
jnotlicr,  after  a  few  incredulous  hiiilVs,  felt  convinced 
ht  last  of  his  beinj;  a  perfect  calf,  and  accej^ing  him 
for  her  own,  bestowed  upon  him  a  good  licking.  Thus 
graciously  encouraged,  and  each  day  more  delighted 
witli  the  unrestrained  freedom  of  his  new  life,  timi- 
rolled  on  and  a  year  elapsed  without  his  ever  regret- 
ling  the  loss  of  home  or  friends;  while  fo  powerful 
^'.as  the  effect  of  this  novel  mode  of  existence  ujxrn 
h'lA  j)erson,  that  it  had  materiidly  altered  his  wljok- 
ti'>i)(':ir:in('0,  and  ais  the  calf  skin  seemed  to  ha>c  ac- 
t^i.-i!iy  adhered  to  his  own,  so  he  found  himself  rapitlly 
aii-'iiiiilatliig,  as  well  in  tastes  as  habits,  to  that  inter- 
c  -ting  quadruped. 

About  this  period  the  niajordomo  undcrtot-k 
.'Uiothcr  hunt  on  these  plains,  where  he  quickly  stu- 
ciedcd  iu  collecting  a  large  number  of  cat tk' ;  but 
jJtliough  they  were  all,  as  usual,  extremely  dilHcuit 
to  manage,  still  there  was  one  of  the  number,  a 
young  bull  with  a  fine  pair  of  bonis  twelve  inches 
long,  more  refractory  and  troublesome  than  any  of 
the  others,  which  fact — lu;  B.  was  the  bull — was  owing 
probably  to  his  educated  instincts,  they  enabling  him 
to  devise  a  variety  of  cxpctlicnts  for  the  discomfitun- 
of  his  pursuers.  However  he  was  at  length  obliged 
to  yield  to  superior  numbers,  and  the  unerring  la7.'> 
finally  brought  him  strugirling  to  the  ground,  wh(  n 
in  an  instant  one  of  his  captors,  an  athletic  eamb<«. 
had  drawn  his  knife  and  commenced  sharpening  if 
upon  the  horns  of  this  novel  minotaurus,  ]>rei)amtorv 
to  performing  upon  him   the  usual  necessary  oj>cr- 


THE    CIMARRONERA.  301 

ations.  But  wliat  lun^ua^jc  can  do  justice  to  tlio  as- 
tonishment of  all  beholders,  -when  the  apparent  bull, 
casting  aside  his  hairy  disguise,  sprang  erect  from  the 
ground,  exclaiming  as  he  did  so:  "Stop,  am'igos  ! 
can  you  liave  forgotten  your  old  comrade  13.,  -who 
was  lost  a  year  ago  in  this  cimarroiiei^a  ?  " 

So  perilous  an  adventure  having  convinced  him  of 
the  risks  attending  a  savage  life,  his  companions  had 
no  difficulty  in  persuading  him  to  return  home  with 
them,  and  thereafter  found  him  of  immense  assistance 
in  their  expeditions,  as,  being  perfectly  familiar  with 
the  haunts  and  habits  of  the  cattle  in  that  cover,  he 
could  lead  the  vaqueros,  when  required,  with  the 
sagacity  of  a  pointer. 

This  story,  which  B.  related  with  the  most  admir- 
able ingenuousness  of  manner,  recalled  to  his  recol- 
lection a  wonderful  discovery  upon  which  he  had 
chanced,  while  journeying  on  a  pressing  errand  to 
Arauca. 

He  had  been  riding  hard  all  day  across  the  plains, 
until  at  length,  overtaken  by  night,  he  was  constrained 
to  encamp  on  the  spot.  Grass  and  water  for  his 
horse — a  fine  trotter — being  abundant  and  at  hand,  he 
took  no  precaution  to  prevent  his  straying,  other  than 
that  of  fastening  the  animal's  feet  on  the  right  side 
with  a  marica^  a  strap  with  looped  nooses  at  both  ends. 
In  spite  of  this  the  horse  wandered  from  him  during 
the  night,  a  mishap  whicli  compelled  poor  B.  to  finish 
the  remainder  of  the  journey  on  foot,  besides  being 
obliged  to  carry  the  ponderous  saddle  upon  his  head. 

Having  accomplished  his  errand  at  Arauca,  and 
after  an  absence  of  several  weeks,  he  was  returning 


3(j2  travels  axd  adventures. 

home  bv  aiMithcr  route,  riding  a  hired  animal,  when 
to  his  grtat  jov,  on  the  way  he  found  his  steed  in  lim- 
condition,  and  his  feet  Btill  secured  hy  the  etrap.  Tlic 
hor-^e  he  was  riding  being  already  tired,  he  removed 
the  saddle  to  the  back  of  his  own  steed,  and  imme- 
diately mounted  him.  But  to  his  overjiowering  as- 
tonii^hment,  he  discovered,  on  resuming  the  journey, 
that  the  gait  of  Ids  horse  had  undergone  an  extraor- 
dinary change,  trotting  as  formerly  on  the  side  that 
had  remained  free  from  the  strap,  but  ambling  on  the 
one  which  had  been  so  long  confined  by  it.  His  wife 
posse.>ising  an  ambler,  he  sold  it  inmiediately  he 
reached  home,  it  being  thereafter  a  useless  expense,  as, 
wlicnever  in  the  future  he  and  his  better  half  wished 
to  ride  at  the  same  time,  all  that  he  had  to  do  was  to 
place  her  on  the  andding  side,  and  then  seating  him- 
self on  the  other  they  trotted  and  ambled  away  to 
their  hearts'  content. 

The  nights  were  thus  jdcasantly  spent,  after  the 
fatigues  of  the  day,  most  of  our  men  having  always 
some  incident  or  story  to  relate  in  connection  with 
their  own  cxj-eriencc.  One  evening,  Gaspar,  the  lame 
negro  who  followed  our  camp  in  the  hundde  capacity 
of  washennan,  recounted  to  a  circle  of  admiring  lis- 
teners a  thrilling  adventure  which  took  place  on  this 
very  spot,  and  in  which  he  to<»k  a  xcry  cons]»icuou8 
part.  He  liad  been  a  slave  to  the  wealthy  Manuel 
Blanco,  who  owned  at  that  time  nearly  all  these  sa- 
vannas, and  jK)sscssetl  in  consequence  untold  wealth 
in  cattle  and  horses.  In  that  capacity  Gaspnr  was 
often  compelled  to  attend  the  great  Inmts  undertaken 
])y  his  master  against  any  tif/n  c<  hoilo  that  might 
have  committed  depredations  in  the  land. 


THE  JAGUAR  HUNT.  303 


THE      JAGUAR      UUNT. 

"  It  was  during  the  mouth  of  August,"  said  Gas- 
par,  "when  the  savannas  are  at  the  height  of  inunda- 
tion, that  the  circumstances  I  am  about  to  relate 
Dccurred  at  this  farm  of  Matiyure,  At  such  times 
the  tigers,  finding  the  low  lands  rather  too  damp  for 
their  delicate  feet,  seek  refuge  among  the  matas,  or 
in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  farm-house,  coming 
out  at  night  to  procure  a  good  supper  for  themselves 
and  cubs  from  amongst  the  herds  congregated  on  the 
hancos,  and  not  unfrequently  it  happens  they  carry 
their  depredations  to  the  veiy  gates  of  the  majada. 

"  We  had  heard  for  several  nights  in  succession 
what,  in  the  opinion  of  our  people,  was  only  the  bel- 
lowing of  padrotcs  assembling  their  herds,  but  which 
the  more  sagacious  hounds  recognized  at  once  as  the 
roar  of  their  old  acquaintance,  the  tiger,  invariably 
answering  each  time  with  a  prolonged  and  dismal 
howl.  It  was  easy  to  perceive,  from  the  prints  left  in 
the  mud,  that  there  were  several  of  these  animals, 
perhaps  a  mother  and  her  cubs.  One  fine  morning 
the  boys  who  tended  the  calves  apprised  the  major- 
domo  that  some  wild  beast  had  broken  into  the 
chiqucro,^  and  carried  ofl'  the  old  sow,  about  giving 
birth  to  a  litter  ;  next  day  the  boar  was  missing,  and 
so  on  until  the  chiquero  was  entirely  relieved  of  all  the 
inmates.     Fearing  fur  our  own  lives  and  the  safety  of 

•  The  pig-pcu. 


304  TRAVELS  AND  ADVESTCRES. 

our  Btecils,  tin?  miijordomo  made  arrangonitnts  i  r  u 
gnmd  huut,  for  the  jjurposc  of  exterminating,  if  juts- 
Bible,  the  whole  of  these  marauders.  Our  master,  wh- 
wag  at  that  time  in  the  village,  was  notilied  of  the 
jilan,  as  were  also  all  those  who  might  wish  to  improve 
this  oj>j)ortunity  for  the  display  of  j>ersonal  j)rowc89. 

"  The  following  day  wc  bad  the  Batisfaction  of  see- 
ing our  master  arrive  at  the  farm,  accompanied  by  the 
Padre  and  a  long  retinue  of  assistants,  all  of  them 
zanjbos  of  undoubted  courage  and  most  ivccomplished 
matadors.  The  J'adrc,  a  fat  little  gentleman  not  yet 
past  the  prime  of  life,  came  more  as  a  cMri*«'*o  ^  than, 
as  many  supposed,  to  exorcise  the  demons  of  the  jun- 
gle. Although  he  had  the  reputation  of  being  a  very 
holy  father,  he  did  not  disdain  at  times  to  lay  aside 
the  cassock  and  join  his  parishioners  in  the  manly 
sport  of  the  Llanos. 

"  Wc  mustered  about  forty  in  all.  which,  t<^gether 
with  a  dozen  or  more  tiger-dogs,  were  considered  quite 
Bufticient  for  our  pur])ose.  Some  of  the  men  carried 
lances  cut  to  within  six  feet  of  the  steel  head,  so  that 
the  long  shaft  might  not  interfere  with  their  move- 
ments in  the  jungle  ;  whilst  others,  trusting  more  to 
their  own  agility  and  skill,  were  simply  armed  with 
their  swords  and  a  saho  f  to  cover  their  movements. 
I,  who  was  neither  a  matador  nor  a  great  horseman  at 
the  time,  was  intrusted  with  the  hazardous  jwst  of 
leading  the  dogs  into  the  cover,  and  therefore  was 
more  cxjwsed  tlian  any  of  the  rest  to  the  anger  of  tho 
tiger. 

•  AmaUur.  f  Shcop-skin. 


THE  JAGUAR  HUNT.  3O5 

"We  were  not  long  in  tracking  the  i^intado  to  a 
neighboring  mata  by  tlic  fresh  i)rints  of  his  paw  in  the 
soft  miul  and  by  a  number  of  turkey-buzzards  liover- 
ing  above  the  carcass  in  the  woods. 

"  On  arriving  at  the  place  supposed  to  harbor  the 
beast,  all  those  of  our  men  who  had  lazos  were  sta- 
tioned at  convenient  distances  around  the  wood, 
while  I  was  ordered  to  lead  the  dogs  into  the  jungle 
after  the  concealed  enemy.  This  I  accoraplit-hed  with 
due  precautions,  aware,  as  you  all  know,  that  the^^i^- 
tado  has  the  peculiarity  of  concealing  himself  where 
not  even  a  fox  could  hide  itself  without  being  discov- 
ered. Presently  I  perceived  a  very  strong  smell — not 
unlike  that  arising  from  a  leather  vat — which  filled 
the  air  in  whatever  direction  the  dogs  led  me,  and 
soon  after  a  tremendous  howling  from  these  worthies 
apprised  me  in  whose  company  they  had  thrust  me. 
►Siuiultaueously  with  the  howling  of  the  dogs,  I  heard 
first  a  hoarse  growling,  not  unlike  a  concert  of  ara- 
guatos  just  before  the  rain,  and,  judging  from  the  in- 
creased barking  of  the  hounds,  I  concluded  that  the 
enemy  was  in  full  retreat,  when  I  thought  my  time 
had  come  to  show  him  my  mettle.  But  lo  !  scarcely 
had  I  advanced  many  paces,  when,  Ave  Maria, 
Siilores  !  the  tiger  gave  such  a  fearful  roar  as  to  shake 
the  ground  and  the  trees  upon  it.  I  do  not  know 
what  became  of  the  dogs  or  the  tiger  at  the  moment; 
for  my  part,  all  I  can  say  is,  that,  without  being  aware 
of  it,  I  found  myself  again  alongside  of  my  com- 
panions, and,  what  was  worse,  in  the  presence  of  the 
majordomo,  who,  by  way  of  warning,  discharged  upon 


;jO(J  TltAVKLS  AM)   ADVENTURKS. 

my  ril)S  siimlry  blows  with  his  chapurro.  It  is  ncoil- 
Icss  to  add,  that  after  this  I  considered  myscir  ten 
times  better  oflf  amidst  my  hounds,  whom  I  had  even.' 
reason  to  expect  would  kecj)  away  the  beast  from  me, 
I  mean,  of  course,  the  tiger.  Upon  my  word,  camor- 
r(i(la<i,  and  with  all  duo  respect  to  mi  Comandantc 
ll:ivago,  here  present,  I  assure  you  that,  of  all  Ravage 
creaturt'S,  there  is  none  so  terrible  as  an  anijry  major- 
domo." 

"  Thou  didst  find  it  so,"  retorted  the  weather-beaten 
overseer,  '*  when,  amidst  a  shower  of  bullets  from  the 
Spaniards,  I  dragged  thee  out  like  a  lame  duck  from 
the  plaza  at  La  Cruz  ;  but  proceed,  my  old  buzzard, 
and  tell  us  what  effect  did  the  well-deserved  thrashing 
produce  on  thy  sonty  hide." 

"Guided  by  the  barking  of  the  dogs,  I  again  en- 
tered the  wood  with  renewed  determination,  A»r  this 
time,  at  least,  I  was  well  provided  with  a  lance,  which 
some  humane  companion  placed  in  my  hands,  besides 
a  saho  which  I  picked  up  on  my  way  thither.  Thus 
armed  and  prepared  for  the  encounter,  I  fancied  my- 
self this  time  another  Marcclino,  slaying  everything 
around  me  ;  but  huw  I  ac»juitted  myself  afterwards 
the  sequel  of  my  narrative  will  show  you. 

"  Well,  *9o/io/v.s  1  found  JVo  Tvjre  °  Jit  the  f<.x)t  of 
a  large  algarroba-tree,  surrounded  by  ray  dogs,  whose 
movements  he  watched  all  the  time  with  an  evil  eye. 
To  all  appearances  none  of  the  contending  parties 
had   yet   come  to  any   decisive    move,  although    the 

■  For  cxplanalinn,  pcc  page  231. 


THK  JAGUAR  HUNT. 


307 


lounds  kept  very  closely  on  him.  Cat-like,  seated 
)n  his  hauuchos  and  pliiyiully  moviug  his  tail  from 
side  to  side,  he  awaited  the  attack  of  the  barkiug 
troop  with  becoming  composure,  never  betraying  the 
[east  symptom  of  alarm,  nor  even  deigning  to  stir  a 
foot  beyond  his  post  to  silence  them.  At  times  he 
3ven  appeared  to  disregard  their  menacing  tone,  rub- 
bing his  eyes  with  his  great  paws  as  if  doubtful  which 
Df  my  fat  hounds  would  afford  him  the  best  meal. 
Occasionally  he  licked  his  thick  upper  lip  with  his 
lery  tongue,  as  if  savoring  beforehand  the  unexpected 
morsel  thus  brought  before  him.  Finally  one  of  the 
logs,  which  appeared  more  courageous  than  the  rest, 
uade  a  sudden  spring  at  his  side,  when  I  thought  my 
:ime  had  come  to  plunge  my  lance  into  his  vitals. 
But  before  I  could  measure  the  distance  that  sepa- 
rated me  from  the  enemy,  I  had  the  mortification  to 
>ee  my  brave  companion  stretched  lifeless  on  the 
ground.  This,  I  thought,  was  a  bad  beginning  ;  but 
f  ever  I  have  a  chance  at  thy  dirty  skin  (said  I  to 
ihe  villain),  I  am  going  to  dye  it  of  a  different  hue. 

"  My  dogs,  however,  were  not  to  be  intimidated  so 
jasily  after  this  unexpected  discomfiture  :  on  the  con- 
trary, growing  more  and  more  clamorous  all  the  time 
for  the  fate  of  their  companion,  they  seemed  deter- 
mined on  avenging  his  death  by  renewing  their  at- 
tacks upon  the  enemy.  The  tiger,  however,  conscious, 
ao  doubt,  of  the  fate  that  awaited  hira  beyond  his 
lair,  obstinately  rcfuped  to  be  driven  out  like  a  pole- 
cat, but  adhered  firmly  to  his  entrenchment  at  tho 
foot  of  the  tree. 


308  TUAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES. 

"  Now,  there  was  among  my  pack  of  hoinuls  a 
BjilenJiJ  fellow  which  had  always  been  a  jtarticular 
favorite  of  mine,  not  only  on  account  of  his  superior 
strength  in  dealing  with  refractory  bulls,  but  also  for 
his  friendly  attachment  to  my  person,  which  he  had 
displayed  more  especially  whenever  the  majordomo 
showed  himself  overzealous  on  behalf  of  my  master  by 
an  undue  punisliment  on  me.  Observing  that  the 
tiger  still  i)ersisted  in  maintaining  his  pohition,  1  Siiid 
to  Fierabras — for  such  was  my  favorite's  name — Now 
then,  my  Ixiy,  show  him  your  teeth  !  while  I  lul- 
vanced  two  or  throe  steps  with  the  intention  of  ]iin- 
ning  the  animal  with  my  lance  to  the  body  of  the 
tree.  But  alas  !  vain  attempt  :  with  one  stroke  from 
his  huge  j»aw,  the  tiger  snatched  the  lance  from  my 
hands,  and  laid  me  flat  on  the  ground,  inflicting  at 
the  same  time  the  severe  gash  on  my  neck  that  you 
may  still  observe.  But  that  is  not  all  ;  as  the  scoun- 
drel, disregarding  all  the  rules  of  decency  and  polite- 
ness, very  c<x>lly  sat  himself  upon  my  face,  nearly  suffo- 
cating rae  with  the  weight  of  his  body  and  the  strong 
exhalations  arising  from  it.  I  thought  that  if  I  could 
get  at  my  cuchiUo,  which  I  carried  by  my  side,  1 
would  soon  get  the  pride  out  of  him  ;  but  in  the  sit- 
uation I  then  was,  it  would  have  Wen  impossible  and 
even  hazardous  to  attempt  anything  of  the  kind. 
Fortunately  the  tiger,  like  his  near  relative,  the  cat, 
seldom  worries  his  victims  as  long  as  they  keep  per- 
fectly still.  By  this  time  some  of  my  friends  outside 
— not  hearing  the  loud  whoops  by  which  I  encouraged 
the  dogs,  and  fearing  something  serious  might  havo 


THE  JAGUAR  HUNT.  309 

happened  to  me — hastened  to  the  spot  from  whence 
proceeded  the  barking  of  the  dogs,  and  endeavored  to 
rescue  me  from  my  perilous  situation.  The  tangled 
nature  of  the  wood,  however,  not  permitting  the  men 
to  use  their  lazos,  one  of  my  companions — a  slave,  like 
myself,  and  a  most  daring  matador — resolved  to  attack 
the  tiger  with  his  sword.  Seizing  the  sheep-skin  from 
the  seat  of  his  saddle,  and  partly  rolling  it  on  his  left 
arm,  he  advanced  boldly  upon  the  tiger,  and,  with  a 
voice  that  I  shall  never  forget,  he  cried  out  :  '  Now, 
then,  hi  jo  'una  put  ....  you  don't  know  who  Pau- 
lino Blanco  is,  or  else  you  would  not  be  making  faces 
at  me  there  as  if  you  were  a  monkey."  The  tiger,  who 
most  likely  had,  during  his  nocturnal  visits  to  the 
farm-house,  heard  something  about  the  famous  ma- 
tador, very  wisely  disregarded  the  insult  flung  at  him, 
instead  of  rushing  on  to  his  encounter  like  a  mad  bull. 
This  somewhat  disconcerted  the  plans  of  the  matador, 
who  was  also  aware  of  the  danger  of  attacking  the 
beast  in  his  intrenchmcnt  ;  but  finally  losing  all  man- 
ner of  patience,  Paulino  made  a  rush  on  the  tiger,  not 
stopping  until  he  almost  touched  the  animal's  nose 
with  the  sheep-skin  ;  then  plunging  his  sword  in  the 
neck  of  his  antagonist,  both  fell  rolling  on  the  ground, 
cracking  the  brushwood  as  they  struggled.  In  the 
meantime  I  was  not  slow  in  improving  the  opportu- 
nity to  crawl  out  in  search  of  my  lost  lance,  which  I 
soon  found,  and  was  enabled  by  means  of  it  to  return 
the  service  rendered  by  my  companion.  To  plunge 
the  lance  into  the  beast's  heart  and  turn  him  on  his 
side,  was  the  work  of  a  moment,  after  which  the  tiger 


31(»  THAVKl-S   AND   ADVENTURBS. 

graihmlly  n.'laxed  his  hold  upon  my  prostrate  com- 
j)anioi»,  and  Htretched  hiinselt*  out  to  die  without  a 
groan,  but  not  Ix'fore  he  liad  inflicted  several  diej) 
wounds  on  the  neck  and  chest  of  his  antagonist. 
Thus  ended  the  career  of  that  scourge  of  the  savan- 
nas, and  my  first  experience  in  tiger-hunting. 

"  After  this  adventure  it  was  easy  to  perceive  that 
chasing  tlie  tiger  on  his  own  ground  was  not  an  easy 
task  by  any  means.  Tlurefore  our  ]»eople  were  in- 
duced to  pn)ceed  more  cautiously  in  the  subseqtient 
search  that  was  made  for  the  others. 

"It  was  not  long  before  the  dogs,  which  were  by  this 
time  aroused  to  a  sense  of  revenge  and  self-defence, 
fell  in  with  the  track  of  another  tiger,  probably  the 
wife  of  the  defunct,  as  it  was  evident  from  the  foot- 
])rints  that  she  was  followed  by  two  younger  ones. 
Fearing  from  past  experience  that  this  second  htint 
might  also  prove  as  disastrous  as  the  former,  it  was 
agreed  that  all  those  who  carried  lances  should  enter 
the  wood  on  foot  in  order  to  attack  the  tigress  in  a 
body,  should  she  refuse  to  come  out  to  open  ground. 
I,  of  course,  was  too  faint  with  loss  of  blood  to  be  able 
to  follow  up  the  trail  this  time  ;  therefore  the  dogs 
had  been  placed  under  the  guidance  of  some  one  else 
and  shortly  after  I  had  the  satisfaction  of  hearing  the 
bark  of  my  chaps  resounding  through  the  woods, 
which  was  a  sure  sign  they  had  brought  the  game  to 
a  stand.  I  was  expecting  every  moment  to  hear  the 
glad  tidings  of  the  destruction  of  this  female  ma- 
rauder, when,  instead  of  the  usual  crj'  of  victoni-.  I 
heard  a  tremendous  ru.sh  and  cracking  of  sticks,  as  if 


TUE  JAGUAR  UUNT.  311 

a  herd  of  wild  bogs  were  endeavoring  to  escape. 
Juilge  of  my  disiippointiuent  when  I  beheld  the  wbole 
troop  of  men  and  dogs  bnrrying  out  of  tbc  wood  ;  and 
at  the  head  of  the  fugitives  no  less  a  personage  than 
big  Reverence  the  Padre,  hotly  chased  by  the  enraged 
tigress,  who,  having  witnessed  the  slaughter  in  cold 
blood  of  one  of  her  darlings,  could  not  restrain  her 
fury  any  longer,  charging  headlong  into  the  midst  of 
the  grou]).  In  spite  of  his  category,  she  would  in  all 
probability  have  made  short  work  of  Su  Senorui.,  had 
not  the  Padre  conceived  the  good  idea  of  dropping  his 
broad-brim  behind  him,  which  fortunately  was  carried 
away  by  a  strong  gust  of  wind,  thus  exciting  the  en- 
raged beast  to  a  pursuit.  The  tigress,  after  sporting 
with  the  hat  like  a  bird  after  a  butterfly,  finding  that 
it  was  mere  chaff,  tore  it  in  pieces,  and  again  turned 
her  attention  towards  the  reverend  fugitive.  In  the 
meantime  the  Padre  had  not  been  very  slow  in  reach-" 
ing  his  horse,  which  was  tied  at  the  foot  of  a  caujaro- 
tree  a  short  distance  from  the  wood.  Unfortunately, 
just  as  he  was  in  the  act  of  laying  hands  upon  the 
bridle  of  his  steed,  the  tigress  issued  from  amongst  the 
high  grass,  and  again  charged  him.  At  sight  of  the 
dreaded  beast,  the  horse,  giving  a  toss  to  the  halter  in 
the  air,  broke  loose  and  scampered  off,  leaving  his 
master  to  the  tender  mercies  of  the  tigress. 

"  Swifter  than  a  monkey,  and  in  spite  of  his  pon- 
derous stomach,  the  Padre  went  up  the  slender  tree, 
which  bent  like  a  reed  at  every  effort  he  made  to  reach 
the  branches,  threatening  to  drop  him  between  the 
open  jaws    of   the   tigress,  which   by  this  time  had 


312  TKAVk;!^   AND   ADVKNTURES. 

rcaclitnl  the  foot  of  the  tree.  Here,  again,  his  ]>atron 
saint,  as  it  is  alleged,  Baved  him  ouce  more  from  the 
impending  danger.  The  truth,  in  my  opinion,  Li  that 
the  tree  was  not  stout  enough  for  the  tigress  to  em- 
hrace  it  firmly  to  climb  up,  otherwise  all  the  guod 
saints  in  heaven  would  not  have  prevented  her  from 
tearing  him  down  like  a  frightened  ararfUdto.^  His 
Reverence  might  have  remained  there  until  the  day 
of  judgment,  as  the  tigress  had  alread}'  crouched  be- 
neath the  tree,  and  he  had  no  means  at  hand  for 
driving  her  off,  not  even  through  the  power  of  excom- 
munication, but  for  the  timely  arrival  of  two  cuhiza- 
dor€S^\  who,  observing  a  horse  scampering  over  the 
jdain  without  a  rider,  were  attmcted  to  the  sjxit  ; 
these,  unfolding  their  lazos,  threw  them  at  the  beast 
with  such  precision  as  to  entangle  the  animal  at  one 
and  the  same  moment  ;  she  was  thus  prevented  from 
doing  injury  to  either  the  Padre  or  themselves  ;  for, 
every  time  she  endeavored  to  spring  on  the  one,  the 
other  tighted  his  lazo  to  check  her  movement.  Furi- 
ous with  rage  and  foaming  at  the  mouth,  the  tigress 
ondeavt)red  to  bite  the  lazos  through  and  through  ; 
but  finding  the  hide  from  which  the  thong  was  twisted 
rather  too  tough  even  for  her  powerful  tusks,  she  rolled 
over  the  grass  in  trepidation  and  dismay  at  finding 
herself  so  unexpectotUy  in  the  power  of  her  captors. 
*'  It  was  a  glorious  sight  to  behold  the  savage  crea- 
with  the  slender  lazos  that  bound 

•  Howling  nionkoT. 

f  Horsemen  furnishod  willi  loios. 


TlIK  JACJUAU   HUNT.  313 

her  to  the  ground.  Crippled  as  I  was  from  the  effects 
of  my  first  encounter  with  the  tiger,  I  had  sufficient 
strength  to  reach  the  scene  of  action  in  time  to  take 
part  in  the  death  of  his  wife  also  ;  hut  ere  I  dealt  the 
first  hlow  at  her,  I  felt  my  arm  suddenly  arrested  hy 
the  Padre,  who  contended  that  the  honor  of  jjutting 
an  end  to  her  accursed  existence  helonged  to  him  ex- 
clusively as  heiug  the  aggrieved  party  on  this  occa- 
sion. I  therefore  willingly  surrendered  my  lance  to 
him,  he  having  lost  his  own  spear  in  the  hurry  of  the 
moment  ;  and  then  he  set  to  work  cutting  her  up 
with  all  the  nicety  of  us  folks,  as  if  he  had  long  been 
trained  in  the  art  of  wielding  a  lance.  Nevertheless, 
the  tigress  would  not  allow  herself  to  he  so  easily  con- 
quered ;  at  every  stroke  from  the  Padre's  lance,  she 
seized  the  pole  with  teeth  and  claws  so  firmly  that  we 
found  it  difficult  to  wrench  it  from  her  grasp,  and  it 
was  not  until  she  had  been  literally  cut  to  pieces  that 
she  gave  up  the  ghost — to  the  devil,  I  hope. 

"  It  was  late  in  the  afternoon  when  we  finished  our 
hunt,  and  turned  our  horses'  heads  in  the  direction  of 
the  farm-house.  AVe  should,  no  doubt,  have  succeeded 
in  killing  as  many  more  of  these  ferocious  beasts,  but 
for  the  early  mishap  to  myself  and  the  good  zambo 
Paulino,  in  consequence  of  which  we  both  had  to  be 
carried — or,  rather,  we  carried  ourselves  as  well  as  we 
could — to  the  pueblo,  in  order  to  have  our  wounds 
properly  dressed.  On  our  arrival  at  the  house,  we 
found  our  mistress — who  had  already  been  acquainted 
with  the  facts  by  my  master — awaiting  us  at  the  gate 
of  tlie  inclosure,  and  apparently  very  mucli  excited 


314  TKAVi:i-S  ANU  ADVKNTl'UHS. 

with  tlie  news  ;  for  no  sooner  did  Paulino  pass  tho 
gate,  and  without  w;iitin<;  lor  liim  i<»  dismount  from 
liis  horse,  tliau  slie  accosted  my  companiou  in  the  fol- 
lowing manner  :  *  Well,  Paulino,   my  boy,  I  declare 

now  tell  rae,  how  did  the  tiger  scratch  you, 

my  poor  fellow,  and  what  did  you  do  to  the  scoun- 
drel ?  '  with  other  similar  expressions  of  feminine  curi- 
osity. Paulino,  who  was  more  matter  of  fact  than 
we  poor  slave  folks  have  generally  the  creilit  for,  very 
prudently  hesitated  at  lirst  to  comjdy  with  the  train 
of  her  requests,  excusing  himself  by  saying,  '  Alas  I 
mistress,  it  was  a  hanl  case,  indeed  ;  but,  tt)  tell  you 
the  truth,  I  6hoi»ldn"t  like  to  show  you  how.' 

''  This  reluctance  on  the  part  of  my  companion 
only  helped  to  excite  her  curiosity  still  m<;re,  until  she 
commanded  him,  in  a  jicremptory  manner,  to  explain 
to  her  the  circumstances  of  the  case.  lU-  this  time 
Paulino  had,  with  some  dilHculty,  extricated  himself 
from  the  saddle,  and  falling  suddenly  upon  our  mis- 
tress with  a  loud  yell,  he  throw  her  upon  the  ground  and 
commenced  biting  and  scratching  her  just  as  the  tiger 
had  done  to  him.  The  yell  from  zambo  and  the  shrieks 
from  mi  Siiiora  soon  drew  to  the  spot  my  master,  and 
some  gentlemen  who  had  come  to  congratulate  him 
on  the  success  of  the  hunt.  Frantic  with  passion, 
and  in  a  tone  of  voice  which  made  me  tremble  for 
poor  Paulino,  he  roared  out,  *  llow,  now  1  Who's 
taking  such  liberties  with  my  wife,  here  !  '  To  which 
Paulino  vcn.-  cahnly  replied,  '  'Tis  nothing,  master  ; 
I  was  only  showing  mistress  how  the  tiger  scratclied 
lilt  '  ■  .  .   .   ." 


CIIAPTEll  XXIT. 

LOS     ROKALES. 

Aware  of  tlic  importance  of  a  plentiful  supply  of 
M-ater  for  the  cattle  during  the  season  of  drought,  wc 
resolved  to  build  a  large  reservoir  in  the  heart  of  the 
savannas  before  leaving  the  pampas,  and  with  this  ob- 
ject now  turned  our  steps  toward  the  lagoon  of  Los 
Borales — so  named  in  lionor  of  a  species  of  water  lily 
very  abundant  on  its  borders — which,  although  quite 
a  lake  during  the  rainy  season,  often  lost  its  waters 
by  evai)oration  and  other  causes  when  most  needed. 
This  required  a  dam  to  be  raised  across  one  of  the 
many  creeks  traversing  these  plains  in  all  directions, 
to  arrest  the  flow  when  the  floods  begin  ebbing,  thus 
leaving  an  artificial  reservoir  where  previously  only 
an  extensive  bog  existed.  AVe  installed  ourselves 
within  the  shelter  of  a  solitary  grove,  and  imme- 
diately commenced  raising  an  embankment  to  several 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  plain,  taking  the  earth  for 
the  pui-pose  from  the  bed  of  a  creek  connecting  with 
the  lagoon.  Digging  to  the  depth  of  twelve  feet,  we 
came  upon  a  tree  with  trunk  and  branches  in  perfect 


.{10  TKAVKLS    AND   ADVENTURES. 

pregcn-fttion,  wliicli,  althonph  it  had  evidently  boon 
tlnis  riitoinbod  I'ur  !»;j:t'^,  a  breath  (if  air  had  j»o\vtr  to 
cruinblc  into  diiht.  As  from  the  time  of  t»iir  arrival 
it  had  rained  uii('ca*in£;ly,  the  water  rapidly  accumu- 
lated in  the  now  completed  re^ervoir,  thou<,'h  our  sat- 
ibfaclion  received  something  of  a  damj>er  from  the 
fact  that  the  fires  were  thereby  conj-tantly  extin- 
guit.hed,  until  we  bethought  ourselves  of  erecting 
over  them  a  covering  of  green  boughs  about  three 
feet  from  the  ground.  Uj)on  this  we  laid  large  pieces 
of  meat,  which,  covered  with  palm  leaves,  were  gpec<l- 
ily  cooked  by  the  fire  beneath. 

In  that  retired  and  solitary  grove,  seated  on  a 
pack-saddle,  and  surrounded  by  lazos,  bridles,  and 
other  emblems  of  our  jicaceful  occupation,  I  wr<ii.- 
under  the  dictationof  our  Leader,  his  emphatic  rcfu.~:i'i 
to  accept  the  Presidency  of  the  licpublic  for  a  third 
time.  Little  did  we  then  dream  that  this  spontaneous 
act  of  political  abnegation  would  be  hailed  with  ex- 
ultation by  his  enemies,  in  the  hope  of  working,  as  it 
did  for  a  time,  his  ruin  as  well  as  that  of  the  Kepub- 
lic  ;  and  that  the  same  ])lains  where  oecurreil  this 
disinterested  i>roof  of  patriotism,  slu»uld  shortly  after- 
ward witness  a  scene  of  bloodshed  and  jiersecution 
to  him  who,  not  long  before,  had  been  the  acknowl- 
edged guardian  of  his  country's  liberties. 

Til  under  storms  were  now  of  frequent  occurrence. 
One  niglit  we  were  awakened  by  a  fearful  clap  from 
the  a]>pr<taching  tempest.  The  i)rospcct  was  not  in- 
viting. Sheltered  in  our  hanmiocks  only  by  our  iol- 
dos^  and  raising  among  us  all  but  a  ver}*  small  um- 
brella of  philosojihy,  we  awaited  the  coming  storm. 


J 


LOS  BORALES.  317 

In  a  moment  it  was  Tipon  us  -witli  a  raginf^  wind  tliat 
throiitCMied  to  overtlirow  and  crush  us  boncatli  the 
falling  branches  of  the  trees.  Then  from  the  heavens 
tlesccnded  so  continuous  a  sheet  of  commingled  fire 
and  flood,  that  these  at  hist  aj)peared  to  become  a 
part  of  the  atmosphere  we  breathed.  Terrified  by 
this  fearful  uproar,  oiir  madrina  of  supernumerary 
dorses,  whi(th,  fearing  the  snakes,  we  had  quartered 
in  the  bed  of  a  dried-up  lagoon,  dashed  madly  across 
the  i)lain,  in  spite  of  the  combined  efforts  of  their 
keepers.  But  no  sooner  had  these  refractory  animals 
abandoned  the  secure  pastures  for  the  higli  grounds, 
than,  attacked  by  snakes,  three  of  them  paid  with 
their  lives  their  insubordination,  and  one  of  these  un- 
fortunates was  afterward  brought  staggering  into  the 
2amp,  groaning  piteously.  Unable  in  the  darkness 
to  discover  the  cause  of  his  sufferings,  a  light  was 
speedily  procured  by  igniting  a  rag  rolled  in  fat, 
\\\\Q\\  a  most  revolting  spectacle  presented  itself ;  the 
poor  beast,  so  covered  with  blood  that  he  appeared 
literally  to  have  been  plunged  into  a  bath  of  gore, 
liad  evidently  been  bitten  by  a  snake,  possibly  the 
?ame  which  in  killing  the  others  had  probably  nearly 
exhausted  its  poison  upon  them,  so  that  what  re- 
mained of  the  venom  had  not  power  to  produce  im- 
mediate death,  but  effected  a  complete  diapedesis  or 
transudation  of  the  blood.  A  citrandero  present  un- 
dertook to  restore  the  poor  animal  by  means  of  the 
famous  m^acion,  but  on  this  occasion  his  skill  was 
vain — the  horse  in  a  short  time  expiring,  ajiparently 
in  great  agony.  The  groans  of  the  dying  animal,  the 
thundering  of  the  others  along  the  waste,  the  shouts 


MH  TKAVKUS   AM)   ADVENTURES. 

uiul  curses  of  tht'ir  purBuern,  who  in  the  darkness 
weri-  in  dun^ur  of  bein;^  tnimiikHj  under  the  feet  of 
more  thiin  three  hundred  frijrlitened  animals,  minj;h<l 
with  the  appalling  fury  of  the  elements,  until  it  seemed 
as  though  earth  and  heaven  M'ere  struggling  for  the 
mastery.  This  fearful  scene  oh,  my  uuha]>]»y  coun- 
try !  shadowed  forth  but  too  faithfully  thy  dark  night 
of  despotism  ;  the  anarchy,  contentions,  and  wretched- 
ness of  thy  children  ;  thy  ravaged  borders,  where  the 
"  Wise  and  Good ''  had  formerly  scattered  jilenty 
over  the  sTuiling  land,  and  portrays  now  to  me  as  faith- 
fully the  night  when  I,  with  a  handful  of  brave  youths 
from  Maracaibo,  was  surprisiil  upon  the  borders  of  its 
lake  by  the  myrmidons  of  the  tyrant  Monagas,  and 
carried  prisoners  to  the  capital  while  endeavoring  t<» 
save  the  remnant  of  constitutional  liberty  in  the  ft 
])ublic. 

Our  men,  finding  it  impossible  during  the  dark- 
ness to  trace  the  horses — among  them  all  of  those  used 
for  the  saddle — were  obliged  to  postpone  their  search 
until  sunrise.  At  length,  as  if  wearied  with  its  wild 
orgies,  this  tumidtuous  night  jiasse<l  away,  and  the 
morning  star  appeared  leading  the  timid  dawn.  The 
earth,  so  late  the  dark  abode  of  chaos,  now  in  bloom 
and  beauty,  seemed  the  favorc<l  datighter  of  the 
spheres,  sparkling  in  li<piid  gems,  and  radiant  in  the 
gorgeous  splendor  of  tropical  spring,  while  myriads 
of  white  lilies,  far  as  eye  coiild  reach,  mantled  the 
j)lain,  flooding  with  ]>erfume  the  ])ure  morning  air. 
Countless  fli>cks  of  waterfowl,  from  the  tiny  giiirtri 
to  the  soldier-like  crane  of  the  itamj^as,  crowded  the 


I 


LOS  BORALES.  319 

miniature  lakes,  wliich  the  late  storm  had  left  in 
everv  hollow  of  the  ground,  and  made  the  air  re- 
sound with  their  harsh  and  varied  notes.  Conspicu- 
ous among  these  last  were  the  several  species  of 
garzas — herons — those  "  Ladies  of  the  waters,  delicate 
in  form,  beautiful  in  plumage,  and  graceful  in  their 
movements,"  whose  slender,  arching  necks,  curving 
here  and  there  above  and  through  the  sprouting 
grass,  reminded  one  of  the  deadly  snakes  lurking 
a])Out  the  plain.  There,  too,  the  carrao^  a  bird  less 
prepossessing  in  appearance,  but  endowed  with  keen 
perception  of  a  coming  change  of  weather,  announ- 
ced by  loud  cries,  from  which  it  derives  its  name, 
the  near  approach  of  rain  with  singular  precision. 
Clouds  of  Huttering  gaviotiu  or  scissor-beaks  (lihyn- 
cho]is)  skimmed  the  water  in  wild,  irregular  flight, 
ploughing  up  the  smaller  fish  with  their  scissor-like 
beaks,  and  vexing  the  ear  with  harsh  and  piercing 
cries.  On  all  sides  bellowing  herds  of  cattle  and 
troops  of  emaciated  deer  wandered,  panting  as  they 
sought  for  water  and  fresh  food  ;  while,  rescued  from 
the  torpor  into  which  the  protracted  summer  drought 
had  plunged  them,  the  drowsy  crocodiles  and  slug- 
gish tortoises  moved  slowly  over  the  plain  in  search 
of  the  reviving  element. 

It  was  no  easy  task  to  keep  the  fires  burning  after 
the  deluging  showers  of  the  previous  night,  in  con- 
sequence of  which  we  were  threatened  for  a  while 
with  starvation  in  the  midst  of  plenty,  as  not  only 
had  our  temporary  kitchen  been  destroyed,  but  every 
log  of  wood  Wiis  drenched  with  water ;  so  were  also 
our  scanty  garments  and  ponchos,  most  of  them  being 


.']20  TRAVELS   AND   ADVENTURES. 

likewise  in  a  few  hours  covered  with  the  larvir  (•!' 
nivriuiis  of  flieji  whieli  infested  our  eanij).  The-t- 
jittittit  niifihra  were,  however,  forgotten  for  the  mo- 
niunt  in  the  all-ahsorhiupf  topie  of  the  whereabouts  of 
our  runaway  h«>rses.  Ilapjiily  the  l^lancros,  aeeus- 
tt)nied  from  tlieir  infancy  to  observe  the  instincts  of  the 
aninials  surroundinj;  them,  j>osse&6  a  eort  of  intuitive 
knowledjre — witli  tliem  it  mij^lit  be  called  a  science — 
of  their  njovements  and  impulses. 

In  followin«;  the  trail  of  stray  animals  nmid.-t 
thousands  intercepting  each  other  in  every  direction, 
it  is  of  course  necessary  to  determine  the  ridit  one  in 
order  to  ])rosecutc  the  Fcarch  with  P(»me  dc'rree  of 
Buccess.  The  long  experience  and  sagacity  t»f  our 
sturdy  niajordomo,  whose  word  was  considered  in- 
fallible in  such  matters,  were  of  incalculable  advan- 
tage on  this  occasion.  Calmly  seated  on  his  ham- 
mock, his  weather-beaten  countenance  turned  toward 
the  far  liorizon,  he  assembled  around  him  the  wearied 
watchmen  of  the  missing  drove,  still  drenched  by  the 
late  tempest  ;  and  directing  each  squad  as  to  the 
probable  course  followed  by  the  separate  groups  of 
horses,  he  ordered  them  to  disperse  over  the  j»lain  in 
jtursuit  of  their  uncertain  errand.  As  the  subsequent 
results  jn-oved,  on  the  afternoon  of  the  following  day, 
it  was  executed  with  gratifying  punctuality;  and 
here  I  may  be  ]>ermitted  to  utter  a  passing  word  of 
jiraise  in  behalf  of  thc*se  hardy  cavaliers  of  the  desert 
])lains.  upon  whose  courage  and  sagacity  often  dc- 
])end8,  not  only  the  success  of  such  ex])cditions,  but 
sonictimes  even  the  fate  ctf  a  whole  army,  whose  juo- 
gress  woidd  be  seriously  endangered  with<.»ut  a  com 


LOS  BORALES.  321 

potent  body  of  cavalry  to  procure  the  necessary  sup- 
ply of  beef.  Scantily  proviiled  with  raiment,  poorly 
paid,  and  the  simple  fare  of  the  Llanos  for  rations, 
they  are  at  the  post  of  duty  at  all  hours,  in  the  hot 
sunshine  of  day,  or  '^  in  thunder,  in  lightnino;,  and  in 
rain  "  by  niglit,  always  cheerful  and  happy,  providing 
they  have  with  them  their  inharmonious  guitar  and 
plenty  of  tobacco  with  which  to  satisfy  their  appetite 
for  stimulus  of  some  sort.  Among  the  various  duties 
of  their  vocation,  one  of  the  hardest  to  which  they 
are  subjected  is  that  of  keeping  a  constant  watch  over 
the  cattle  at  night  to  prevent  their  dispersion,  as  .they 
arc  compelled  to  remain  for  hours  on  horseback  and 
"  wide  awake."  In  order  to  accustom  the  cattle  to 
the  voice  of  their  nocturnal  guardians,  a  constant 
chant  in  a  peculiarly  plaintive  strain,  in  which  cattle 
seem  rather  to  delight,  is  kept  up  until  morning, 
when  only  a  few  horsemen  are  necessary  to  retain 
them  within  the  grazing  ground.  Should  the  unruly 
herd,  despite  their  vigilance,  take  alarm,  as  is  often 
tlie  case,  or  evince  any  symptoms  of  uneasiness,  the 
first  care  of  the  men  is  to  close  in,  in  circle,  and  if  this 
prove  unavailing,  they  place  themselves  at  the  head 
of  the  stampede,  in  order  to  check,  if  possible,  the 
l)rogress  of  the  affrighted  multitude  ;  but  woe  to  the 
uufc^rtunate  watelnnan  Avliose  horse,  missing  his  foot- 
ing, throws  his  rider,  fur  ho  will  be  trampled  to  death 
in  an  instant  I 

One  afternoon  we  Avcre  apprised  by  a  special  mes- 
senger from  El  Frio,  that  a  tall,  red-faced  Englishman 
had  arrived  from  the  Orinoco,  bringing  any  quantity 


322  TRAVELS  AND  ADVESTURBa 

of  lire-iinnti,  nminuiiition,  and — what  nppcarwi  moet 
t'Xtraortlinary  to  our  informant — a  m-'nuine  ne^ro  i-i  r- 
vaiit  ^vllo  c-oukl  8in*ak  Kiijjlish.  As  no  written  coni- 
nninication  had  been  doi^patrhed  alon^  with  tho 
bearer  of  this  unexj)eeted  piece  of  intelligence,  "vvc 
had  not  an  idea  of  who  this  British  Ninirod  might  be. 
We,  however,  hastened  to  welcome  tlie  stranger,  and 
for  the  purpose  left  Los  Borales  next  morning  f»»r 
head-quarters.  On  arriving,  we  were  most  agreeably 
surprised  at  meeting  no  less  a  personage  than  Lord 
James  Butler,  now,  as  I  understand.  Earl  of  Or- 
mond.  "We  then  recollected  that  the  previous  year, 
when  his  lordship  had  honored  us  with  a  visit  at  our 
honu'  in  the  valleys  of  Aragiia,  he  had  promised  that 
should  we  carry  out  our  pnjected  expedition  to  the 
pampas,  he  would  meet  us  there.  Accordingly,  in 
expectation  of  this,  he  had  quitted  Barbadocs — where 
he  was  stationed  with  his  regiment — in  his  yacht  for 
the  river  Orinoco.  There  he  left  it  and  prosecuted 
the  remainder  of  the  voyage  in  a  clumsy  bongo,  up 
the  A  pure,  arriving  at  San  Fernando  nearly  a  month 
after  quitting  Ciudad  Bolivar.  At  the  fonner  place 
he  was  advised  to  proceed  to  Achaguas,  where  lie 
would  most  likely  hear  of  our  whereabouts.  Obtain- 
ing there  the  requisite  information,  he  immediately  set 
out  for  our  cattle  farm,  distant  about  fifteen  leagues; 
l»ut  instead  of  providing  him  with  a  guide  across  the 
trackless  waste,  he  was  merely  furnished  with  a  re- 
fractory mule,  which  they  assured  him  would  take 
liim  to  the  next  cattle  fann,  whence  he  would  be  di- 
rected onward.  lie  bad  not  procee<led  far  on  liis 
solitary  way,  when  the  vicious  animal,  taking  fright 


LOS  BORALES.  323 

at  a  prairie-owl  just  as  nijjlit  ^vas  a])proaching,  sud- 
denly whirled  round,  and  my  lord,  despite  his  loni^ 
lei!;s  and  English  horsemanship,  lost  his  balance,  -was 
diismounted,  and,  what  was  worse,  left  to  shift  for 
himself  in  the  midst  of  a  wide  plain  ;  the  mule,  finding, 
perhaps,  the  load  rather  too  much  ibr  him,  scampering 
off  without  even  a  ]>arting  comj>liment.  Nor  was  his 
sable  squire  at  hand  to  render  him  the  requisite  assist- 
ance, as  he  had  been  left  behind  in  charge  of  the 
numberless  accoutrements  for  the  chase.  Fortunately 
a  peon  accidentally  encountered  the  mule  on  his  way 
home,  and  knowing  the  tricks  of  the  animal,  secured 
him,  and  brought  him  back  to  the  discomfited  trav- 
eller. 

His  lordship  related  this  adventure  with  much 
humor,  and  on  our  expressing  regret  tliat  he  had  met 
with  so  disagreeable  a  contretemjys,  he  coolly  replied 
that  he  scarcely  considered  it  in  that  light,  and  rather 
regretted  its  speedy  termination  as  having,  possibly, 
deprived  him  of  some  curious  experiences. 

Although  the  best  room  in  the  house  liad  been 
prepared  for  his  accommodation,  we  observed  with 
surprise  that  when  night  came,  he  insisted  upon 
having  his  hammock  slung  in  the  open  air.  This,  we 
afterward  discovered,  was  in  consequence  of  his  great 
horror  for  the  murcielagos  clinging  in  clusters  to  the 
thatch-roof  of  the  house  ;  and  I  must  confess  also  that 
the  guest-chamber  in  our  Manor  of  the  Panq)as  had 
few  attractions,  and  could  offer  none  of  the  allure- 
ments of  the  dulce  domo  to  his  lordship  of  Kilkenny 
Castle.  AVines  or  delicacies  of  any  kind  we  liad 
none;  but  as  we  were  well  aware  that  the  hospitalile 


;Jo^  TIlAVi:i_S  AND  ADVENTURES. 

KiJ^li.-iimuM  always  ollVrF  some  choicer  bevcratrc  tlian 
water  to  liis  quests,  we  called  un  oUl  corozo  juilin  trie 
»?tan<ling  in  I'rout  of  the  house  to  be  cut  down,  and 
from  it  we  i)roeured  every  afternoon  a  plentiful  sup- 
ply  of  j)alm-wine.  To  obtain  this,  a  trou«;h  is  &eo<;»pctl 
out  in  the  upper  part  of  the  stem  among  the  footstalks 
of  the  leaves;  the  opening  is  then  covered  with  the 
square  piece  of  bark  just  cut  out,  and  the  wine  or  sap 
allowed  to  accumulate  in  the  trough  during  the  night. 
A  few  hours  are  sufficient  to  produce  a  jdeasant  vinous 
fermentation  with  a  sweetish  taste  and  a  ilavor  sim- 
ilar to  that  of  Malaga  wine  ;  but  if  left  to  ferment  for 
a  longer  jieriod,  it  acquires  decidedly  intoxicating 
proj)i'rt  ies. 

Although  our  sj>()rts  were  nearly  over  at  this  time, 
we  endeavored  to  entertain  our  di>tinguisheil  visitor 
as  well  as  circumstances  would  permit.  "We  escorted 
him  several  times  to  the  savannas  in  search  of  game, 
and  even  got  up  a  rwho  and  branding  frolic  for  liis 
special  amusement,  with  both  of  which  he  appeared 
highly  delighted.  During  the  excitement  of  the 
ro(ho  he  had  another  adventure,  similar  to  that  I 
have  already  related  as  having  occurred  to  my  friend, 
Mr.  Thomas,  with  a  wild  bull,  and  which  came  vt-ry 
near  juoving  more  disastrous  than  his  lordship's  pre- 
vious one  with  the  refractory  mule.  AVc  had  ju^t 
surrounded  a  large  herd  of  cattle,  when,  like  the 
artist,  insjtired  by  the  excitement  of  the  chase  an«l  if> 
accompanying  scenes,  Lord  James  seized  his  sketch- 
book and  commenced  to  delineate  them.  lie  ha<l 
not  been  long  tlms  occupied,  when  a  bull,  attract(  d 
jterhai>s  by  the  commanding  attitude  of  the  draught.-- 


LOS  BORALES.  325 

man,  broke  tliroiigli  tlic  ring,  and  made  at  him  with 
fiirv  in  his  eyes.  Unconscious  of  danger,  he  contin- 
ued his  occupation  with  as  much  composure  as  if  at  a 
stag-hunt  in  the  AVest  Eiding  of  Yorkshire.  It  was 
too  h\te  to  render  liim  assistance,  and  we  watched  the 
issue  witli  breathless  anxiety  ;  but  the  bull,  apparent- 
ly awed  by  the  immovable  attitude  of  the  rider  and 
his  fearless  composure,  contented  himself  with  making 
a  tremendous  demonstration  at  the  breast  of  the  horse 
without  either  touching  him  or  his  rider,  and  then, 
turning  tail,  vanished  in  the  distance.  It  was  highly 
amusing  to  hear  his  lordship  inquire  the  meaning  of 
all  that  flourish  of  trumpets,  when  a  witty  Llanero, 
standing  near,  replied  to  him  that  it  was  evidently 
intended  as  a  salutation  from  the  wild  multitude  to 
the  honored  guest. 

Startled  by  the  noise  and  rush  of  so  many  animals 
over  the  plain,  the  foxes — in  tlie  pursuit  of  which 
Englishmen  arc  so  lavish  of  trouble  and  expense — 
could  be  seen  running  to  and  fro,  endeavoring  to 
escape ;  no  sooner  did  the  noble  son  of  Albion  dis- 
cover that  this  flivorite  game  was  also  to  be  found  iu 
the  pampas,  than  he  abandoned  the  exciting  hunt  of 
the  wild  cattle  for  the  first  fox  that  crossed  his  path. 
He  had  not  proceeded  far,  however,  when  another  fox, 
and  then  another,  and  finally  a  legion  of  them  offered 
to  his  eager  pursuit.  Bewildered  by  so  many  bushy 
tails,  he  gave  up  the  chase  in  disgust ;  and  I  am 
sorry  to  state  that  this  species  of  emhan'cts  dc  richesse^ 
spoiled  sport  for  him  in  all  his  subsequent  sorties, 
excepting  wlien,  on  a  visit  to  the  creek  of  Macanillal, 
we  ''caught  a  tartar"  in  the  shai»e  of  a  full-grown 


32,3  TRAVF.Iii   AND   ADVENTURES 

crooodilf,  \\liiili  wc  init;took  for  a  yoxing  oik*.  This 
iul\  lilt  lire,  however,  uflorded  him  u  good  dcul  i'\' 
ainu.->emeiit,  iind  tiomc  Burprise  to  tliogc  engaged  in 
the  uiuh-rtaking.  It  i^o  hapi)ened  tliat  only  tlie  end 
of  the  reptile's  tail  was  out  of  water  in  a  very  ehallow 
sjtot,  the  rest  of  its  body  being  entirely  buried  anumg 
tlie  roots  of  a  large  stump.  Judging  from  the  a^)- 
parent  tnudlness  of  the  tail  that  we  eould  eai«ily  drag 
out  the  creature,  and  his  lordshij)  having  expressed  a 
desire  to  obtain  the  specimen  for  preservation,  Rose- 
liano  innnediately  volunteered  his  services.  He  tried 
in  vain,  however,  to  bring  it  to  light  unassisted, 
where\ipon  a  lazo  was  brought  into  re(jui>ition,  and 
having  noosed  the  tail  therewith,  we  sueeeetled  in 
pulling  the  reptile  out  of  its  hiding-place,  when,  to 
our  great  astonishment  and  trejiidation,  wc  discov- 
ered that  it  was  a  large  and  full-grown  female  croco- 
dile with  a  brood  of  young  ones  among  the  roots  of 
the  old  tree.  She  struggled  furiously  in  defence  of 
lirr  br.Mid.  several  of  which  we  captured  and  pre- 
sented to  our  gm-st  ;  but  when  the  time  came  for  dis- 
posing of  the  mother  and  recovering  thclazo,  we  found 
that  it  would  ]>n»ve  no  child's  play,  inasmuch  as  she 
had  full  command  of  her  jaws.  After  several  ineffec- 
tual attempts  to  stab  her  while  in  water,  we  succeeded 
at  length  in  dragging  her  j^artly  from  her  lair,  and 
then  oidy  were  we  enabled  to  unfasten  the  noose.  A 
stal)  or  two  in  the  armpits,  causing  a  flow  of  blood, 
speedily  brought  the  caribes  to  finish  the  job,  after 
which  we  n'turned  to  the  house,  much  gratified  at 
having  rid  the  creek  of  this  dangerous  family. 

On  our  wav  back  I  met  with  a  severe  accident. 


LOS  BORALES.  327 

and  narrowly  escaped  serious  injury  from  it.  We 
were  cantering  along  a  beautifully  level  piece  of 
ground,  covered  with  short  grass ;  this  suggested  to 
my  English  friends  the  idea  of  testing  the  relative 
swiftness  of  our  horses.  Oli'  we  at  once  started,  and 
hud  proceeded  but  a  short  distance,  when  Ave  found 
our  way  obstructed  by  a  dried-up  creek.  The  English- 
men, as  a  matter  of  course,  delighted,  leaped  it  at  a 
bound  ;  but  my  pony,  not  being  sufficiently  strong  to 
clear  the  obstruction,  missed  the  opposite  bank  and 
fell,  rolling  over  with  me  into  the  ditch.  I  was  a 
good  deal  bruised  in  consequence,  and  the  house 
being  still  at  considerable  distance,  suffered  intensely 
in  reaching  it.  This  accident  prevented  me  from 
joining  in  the  other  sports  devised  for  the  entertain- 
ment of  our  noble  guest,  who,  however  shortly  after- 
ward bade  us  adieu  and  returned  to  the  sea  coast, 
lie  preferred,  on  this  occasion,  the  route  through 
Xutrias  and  Barinas,  that  he  might  escape  the  tedious 
descent  of  the  rivers  ;  a  messenger  was  therefore  de- 
sjiatched  to  Ciudad  Bolivar,  ordering  his  yacht  to 
meet  him  at  Puerto  Cabello.  Disabled  by  my  recent 
mishap,  I  could  not,  much  to  my  regret,  accompany 
him  ;  a  guide  of  his  own  selection  was,  however,  fur- 
nished in  the  person  of  our  negro  troubadour  Quin- 
tana,  for  whom  his  lordship  had  evinced  a  decided 
predilection,  even  extending  to  him  an  invitation  to 
visit  "•  Old  England,"  the  friend  and  protector  of  be- 
nighted Africa ;  but  we  could  not  spare  him  for  so 
long  a  trip  ;  and  as  Llaneros  have  an  innate  aversion 
to  trusting  themselves  on  unknown  waters,  the  ac- 
quaintanceship terminated  on  the  borders  of  the  Ca- 
ribbean Sea. 


328  TRAVIILS  AND  ADVENTURES. 

After  the  de])arture  of  our  noble  guest  fmin  El 
Frio,  we  began  to  think  that  it  was  also  high  time 
for  us  to  be  getting  ready  for  our  return  homeward. 
Tlic  task  of  retraeing  our  stepp,  however,  was  not  an 
easy  thing  to  aecomplihli  with  three  thousand  oxen  to 
ludk  after,  besides  the  other  animals  we  bn»ught 
there  ;  and  this  in  the  faec  of  the  apiiroaehing  inun- 
dation of  the  savannas. 

As  soon  as  our  preparations  were  completed,  we 
took  our  final  departure  from  El  Frio,  whieh  perhaps 
we  were  destined  never  to  revisit,  stopping  at  k>an 
Pablo  for  a  few  days  to  make  further  arrangements 
at  the  pass  for  crossing  the  river  with  our  innncnse 
train  of  animals  and  baggage.  On  our  way  to  San 
Pablo,  we  were  nigh  being  ])Ut  to  nnit,  and  our 
labors  scattered  to  the  winds,  by  an  invasi<in  of  a 
small  bloody  fly  termed  mosquilhiy  which  makes  its 
a]>pearanee  at  the  commencement  of  the  rainy  season, 
and  which,  for  dcstruetivencss  to  flesh  and  blood,  sur- 
passes any  thing  I  have  yet  seen  in  the  shape  of  an 
insect.  In  an  instant  we  were  enveloped  in  a  swarm 
of  these  terrible  creatures,  which  fastened  themselves 
uj)on  us  and  the  cattle  with  a  tenacity  like  that  of 
hungry  leeclies,  maddening  both  man  and  beast,  and 
causing  streams  of  blood  to  flow  from  the  bites.  The 
only  relief  we  found  for  a  while  was  to  drive  the  cattle 
at  full  speed  across  the  plain  ;  but  this  ex]>etlicnt,  al- 
though for  the  time  it  frightened  away  the  fliw,  came 
very  near  ]»roducing  also  a  comjdcte  dispersion  of  the 
herd.  "We  therefore  resigned  ourselves  to  endure 
their  torturing  attacks  until  they  had  gorged  them- 
selves with  blood. 


Ot  R     IKADRK. 


ClLVrTER    XXIII. 

OUR     L  E  A  D  !•:  IJ. 
THE    ROMANCE    OF    A    PATRIOT'S   LIFE. 

From  San  Pablo  vrc  despatclied  men  on  to  Apnr- 
to,  wlicre  wc  proposed  crossing  the  river  with  the 
:-attle,  to  make  preparations  for  this  toilsome  work  ; 
md  then  started  for  Achaguas,  the  inhabitants  of 
rt'hich  town  had  tendered  our  Leader  an  earnest  in- 
t'itation  to  visit  liis  old  head-quarters.  After  an  easy 
'ide  of  about  three  hours,  we  forded  on  horseback  the 
xrm  of  the  Apurc  River  M'hich,  running  in  a  south- 
easterly direction,  forms  with  the  Arauca  and  the 
nain  channel  of  the  former  the  island  of  Achaguas, 
)n  which  the  cai)ital  of  the  province,  a  collection  of 
luid  hovels,  is  situated.  A  brood  of  scaly  crocodiles 
jasking  in  the  sun,  and  a  herd  of  tame  cattle  rcfrcsh- 
ng  themselves  in  the  middle  of  the  stream,  were  the 
5nly  signs  of  animation  we  perceived  on  our  approach 
:o  the  renowned  capital  of  the  Apure.  In  spite  of  its 
present  dilapidated  condition,  Achaguas  did  not  fail 
:o  interest  me  more  than  any  other  S])ot  in  A])iire, 
being  my  birthplace,  and  the  stronghold  fur  many 
years  of  my  country's  independence.     The  Governor 


.S30  TKAVELS    AND   AI'VENTURU^ 

of  tin-  i)n>vince,  Sefior  Arciniega,  accompanii'd  by 
tla*  tVw  olHiials  iu  the  ]»lace,  came  out  after  a  while 
to  greet  our  Leader,  as  did  also  the  veteran  General 
Cornelio  Mufioz,  former  Commander  of  the  famous 
(riKinh'a  Jt'  ]Ionoj\  or  Colorados  de  J*ai^^  whicli  un- 
der the  leadership  of  both  these  generals,  j)erformed 
so  many  prodigies  during  the  long  struggle  between 
Jloyalists  and  Patriots,  which  resulted  in  the  final 
overthrow  of  Sjianish  domination  in  Colombia.  At 
that  epoch  of  historical  interest  to  the  friends  of  lib- 
erty in  America,  Achaguas  held  the  most  conspicuous 
position  as  the  licadquartcrs  of  the  patriot  armies,  led 
by  the  subject  of  the  fallowing  remarks. 

The  arms  i»f  the  rLi)ublic  were  at  first  unsuccessful, 
and  Venezuela  submitted  to  the  government  of  the 
mother  country,  the  8])anish  commander,  Don  Do- 
mingo Montcverde,  having  triumphed  over  the  patriot 
forces  in  1S12.  By  this  time,  however,  a  new  cham- 
pion of  the  republican  cause  was  rising  in  the  south, 
amidst  the  wild  scenes  I  liave  endeavored  to  depict  in 
the  foregoing  ]>agcs.  This  champion  was  Captain 
Jose  A.  Patz,  then  a  youth  of  twenty  Ajirils,  wIjo 
conceived  the  hapjty  idea  of  collecting  a  horde  of  un- 
disciplined Llaneros  in  the  jilains  of  Casanarc  to  oj>- 
])0se  the  overwhelming  forces  of  Sj)ain.  1 1  is  intimate 
acquaintance  with  the  country,  and  his  thorough  mas- 
tery in  all  the  sports  of  the  Llaneros,  admirably  fitte<l 
him  to  carry  out  his  jdans  successfully.  How  lie 
came  there,  and  by  what  means  he  acquired  the  re- 
quisite ]>roficiency  for  the  arduous  enterprise,  the 
following  anecdote  of  his  early  career  will  explain. 


OUR- LEADER.  331 

^Yhcn  seventeen  years- of  age,  an  uncle  of  his,  the 
ii;oud  Priest  of  Araure,  his  native  phice,  entrusted  him 
with  a  hirge  sum  of  money  to  deliver  safely  inio  the 
liands  of  the  curate  of  a  distant  parish,  furnishing 
liini  for  the  journey  with  a  mule,  an  old  pistol,  and  a 
rusty  sword  ;  for,  even  at  that  period  of  comparative 
quiet  and  peace  (1S07)  it  was  dangerous  for  a  travel- 
ler to  venture  over  the  roads  alone,  and  carrying  with 
him  the  tem})ting  metal.  The  future  President  of  the 
Rei>ublic,  highly  elated  at  the  great  confidence  re- 
[)osud  in  him,  with  the  usual  inexperience  of  youth, 
spoke  freely  about  his  commission  in  the  first  inn  he 
stopped  at  to  get  his  meals.  The  consequence  of  this 
imprudence  was,  that  shortly  after  he  left  the  inn,  he 
was  attacked  on  the  road  by  three  men,  who,  as  a 
matter  of  course,  demanded  la  holsa  6  la  vida.  Tlie 
youthful  traveller,  however,  dismounted  with  the  old 
pistol  in  his  hand  already  cocked,  and  now  threaten- 
ing one  and  then  the  other  of  his  assailants,  endeav- 
ored to  repel  them.  At  last,  being  too  closely  pressed, 
he  fired  the  pistol  at  the  nearest  robber,  with  such 
good  aim  that  he  killed  liis  adversary  on  the  spot, 
while  the  fragments  of  the  barrel,  which  burst  at  the 
same  time,  struck  another  in  the  face.  Then  charging 
resolutely  upon  the  third  bandit  with  the  rusty  sword, 
he  <piickly  put  both  to  flight,  leaving  behind  them 
the  corpse  of  their  wretched  comrade.  Notwithstand- 
ing the  obvious  propriety  of  his  conduct  on  this  oc- 
casion, acting  as  he  did  in  self-defence,  the  young 
man  feared  the  consequences  ;  he  imagined  himself 
already  accused,  persecuted,  without  the  means  of 
proving  his  innocence,  and  therefore  determined  to 


332  TRAVKLS   AND   AnVENTrKHS. 

hiile  hinipt'lf  l>v  poinp  into  tlie  interior  of  the  jilain?. 
luti>in^  tliu»  \o  e!-eaj>e  a  |>uni.-hnient  wliieli  hib  trior 
made  him  regard  as  inevitable.  Determined  to  gain 
an  h«)ne!^t  livelihood,  lie  ponght  emjdovment  on  the 
cattle  farm  of  La  Calzada,  in  the  i)rovinee  of  Barinas. 
where  he  noon  became  inured  to  tlie  fatigues  of  the 
ranger's  life ;  acquiring  at  the  same  time,  under  the 
tuition  of  a  cruel  negro  majordomo,  that  proficiency 
in  horsemanship  which  later  in  life  gave  him  the  8U- 
l)eriority  over  the  enemy. 

Proud  and  jealous  at  the  .'^ame  time  of  his  whiti- 
aji]>renticc,  whom  he  imagined  had  been  sent  there 
by  his  master  to  sjty  his  actions,  the  negro  •ovei'seer 
of  La  Calzada  spared  no  ojiportunity  to  j»ut  to  the 
test  the  courage  and  strength  of  the  future  champion 
of  those  plains,  sometimes  comjielling  him  to  break 
in  the  most  vicious  horses,  which  often  led  him  off  for 
days  into  the  open  fields  ;  at  other  times  ordering 
him  away  upon  the  most  hazardous  ventuies  of  the 
Llanos.  Not  satisfied  with  this  show  of  authority 
over  his  ]uipil,  the  brutal  black  Mentor  of  young 
Paez  ended  the  fatiguis  of  a  hard  day's  labor  by 
ordering  him  to  bring  a  pail  of  water  and  wash  his 
muddy  feet !  ]*ut  the  tide  of  fortune  soon  changed  ; 
the  whirlwind  of  revolution  offered  Paez  a  new  field 
of  adventure,  and  the  humble  peon  of  La  Calzada 
rapidly  gained  the  highest  posts  in  the  patriot  army, 
while  the  hatighty  overseer  went  to  increase  the  ranks 
of  the  opi>osing  foe.  In  the  course  of  events  the  ma- 
jordomo was  brought  one  day  a  prisoner  to  Paez, 
who  not  only  spared  his  life,  but  kejtt  him  always 
near  liis  person,  his  only  revenge  being  to  imitate  the 


OUR  LEADER.  333 

tone  of  his  former  tyrant  when  cfilling  upon  young 
Paez  to  exercise  the  functions  of  the  shivc  :  ^'■.jViPio 
Jose  Antonio!  bring  a  bowl  of  water  to  wash  my 
feet !  "  to  which  the  old  negro  humbly  replied,  "  I 
see,  n'lTio,  you  have  not  forgotten  your  old  tricks." 

When  the  revolution  broke  out,  on  the  19th  of 
April,  1810,  Paez  enlisted  in  the  militia  of  Barinas  as 
a  common  soldier,  and  soon  after  was  promoted  to 
tlie  rank  of  sergeant  of  cavalry.  This,  however,  being 
rather  a  slow  process  of  promotion,  he  proceeded  to 
organize  an  independent  body  of  cavalry,  with  which 
he  rendered  important  service  to  the  cause  of  inde- 
pendence. But  the  path  of  glory  was  not  without 
thorns,  and  our  young  leader  found  himself  a  pris- 
oner in  the  hands  of  the  merciless  Spaniards,  owing 
his  preservation,  as  it  was  then  believed,  to  the  influ- 
ence of  a  miracle.  In  those  days  a  war  without  quar- 
ter was  fiercely  waged.  The  province  of  Barinas 
hanng  been  again  occupied  by  the  royalist  forces, 
Paez  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  cruel  Puy,  w\as  thrown 
into  prison  and  ordered  to  be  executed  in  the  city 
of  Barinas  the  next  day.  At  that  time  military  ex- 
ecutions of  captured  enemies  were  conducted  by  lead- 
ing them  out  during  the  night  to  some  lonely  spot, 
where  they  were  despatched  with  tlie  lance  or  the 
swonl.  Paez  and  a  number  of  his  fellow-prisoners 
were  thus  being  led  out  one  night,  when  he  observed, 
as  lie  was  leaving  the  prison,  that  he  was  uncovered  ; 
believing  himself  to  be  only  going  to  make  his  deposi- 
tion before  the  Governor,  he  requested  his  companion 
in  the  cell  to  lend  him  his  hat.     The  Spanish  ofticer 


334  TIJAVKLS  AND   ADVEXTLUi:S. 

in  churjre  of  the  mournful  corto^e,  failing;  to  rccoprnize 
liiin  uiuKt  this  j;ui.<i',  ordrrod  liiin  hack  to  be  t-x- 
chaiiged  for  the  owntr  of  the  hat,  nvIjo,  he  t«uj)|>06ed, 
was  the  identieul  "  eaptain  of  the  rebels."  TliUB  he 
obtained  unwittingly  a  respite  of  one  day.  The  fol- 
lowing night  he  was  awakened  about  eleven  o'clock 
by  a  great  noise  of  hoitenien  and  infantry  in  the 
street.  He  iniairined  they  were  coming  to  lead  him 
and  the  rest  of  his  fellow-j>risoners  to  the  jtlace  of  ex- 
ecution, lie  prejtared,  therefore,  to  die;  but  Provi- 
dence saved  his  life  once  more.  Tlie  noise  of  arms 
and  hoi-ses  in  the  street  had  been  oecasionetl  by  nn 
alann  in  consequence  of  information  received  b}- 
Govenior  Puy,  that  a  considerable  army  of  jmtriots 
was  encampeil  on  the  banks  of  the  Santo  Domingo 
river,  on  which  Parinas  is  situated,  and  was  about 
marching  on  the  city.  Several  ]>arties,  coming  from 
different  directions,  confinned  the  information  re- 
ceived by  the  Governor,  and  the  jianic  became  gen- 
eral. It  was  suppoised  that  the  patriots  in  large  num- 
bers intended  to  take  the  Spanish  garrison  by  sur- 
prise and  seize  \x\xm  the  Governor.  The  latter,  there- 
fore, immediately  abaiubMied  Barinas  with  his  forces, 
leaving  only  a  few  men  to  guard  the  ]>rison,  for  in  his 
hurry  he  had  forgotten  to  execute  the  prisoncrj!,  as 
he  had  done  before  on  similar  occasions.  Tliis  was 
the  time  for  Paez  to  make  a  bold  effort  to  save  his 
life.  The  next  morning  he  embrace<l  the  o])jx»rt unity, 
broke  his  fetters,  helped  to  release  his  fellow-j^risitn- 
ers.  and  overpowered  one  of  the  sentinels,  who  at- 
temptetl  to  <»pj)osc  his  escape.  Paez  then  fled  to  put 
himself  once  more  at   tlie  head  of  a  small  band  of 


OUU  I.KADKU.  335 

patriots,  to  harass  the  enemj  in  the  same  province  of 
liarinas.  On  the  morning  succeeding  the  alarm,  the 
royalists  could  not  discover  an  enemy  for  more  than 
fifty  miles  around  the  city.  The  alarm  and  panic  oc- 
casioned by  the  reported  approach  of  an  enemy  in 
the  night,  confirmed  by  so  many  persons,  some  of 
whom  had  gone  out  to  reconnoitre,  and  the  most  sin- 
gular disaj^pearance,  or  absence,  of  this  host  on  the 
following  morning,  gave  rise  to  the  popular  belief, 
existing  to  this  day  among  the  common  people, 
that  the  life  of  Pacz  was  saved  by  the  friendly  inter- 
cession and  miraculous  appearance  of  an  army  of  de- 
parted spirits,  known  as  the  Ejjrcito  de  las  Animas. 
The  next  exploit  of  the  future  champion  of  the 
Llanos  took  place  amongst  the  rugged  mountains  of 
Merida,  to  which  point  the  remnants  of  the  republican 
forces  were  retreating  after  the  disasters  of  1814. 
Utterly  disheartened  and  surrounded  on  all  sides  by 
enemies,  they  hardly  knew  which  way  to  turn.  The 
column  to  which  Paez  belonged  finding  itself  unex- 
pectedly confronted  on  their  march  to  Bailadores  by  a 
superior  force,  made  a  stand  at  a  place  called  Etanques, 
while  the  enemy  endeavored  to  gain  the  intermediate 
heights.  The  road  which  led  to  these  was  a  narrow 
and  deep  cut  on  the  sides  of  the  steep  mountain, 
which  did  not  permit  a  force  to  deploy  on  being  at- 
tacked ;  observing  which,  Pacz,  who  had  no  command 
of  his  own,  and  only  figured  as  an  attache  to  a  small 
body  of  cavalry  under  Capt.  Antonio  Rangel,  who 
commanded  the  advanced  post,  strenuously  urged  the 
captain  to  pursue  the  royalists  on  their  march  ;   Ran- 


33C  TlJAVKl-S   AM)   ADVENTLKH<. 

gel,  liowcver,  contented  himself  witli  cxclmnpn*:^  a  few 
shuts  with  tlie  hitttr,  and  returned  to  oeeiipy  his  po- 
sitioii.  Unable  to  restrain  himself,  Pacz,  who  rode 
a  spirited  charger,  dashed  onward,  making  a  great 
noise,  as  if  proceeding  from  many  voices,  disehurging  a 
blunderbuss  on  the  rear  of  the  column,  which  killeil 
the  sergeant.  Alarmed  with  the  voices  and  the  Re- 
port of  the  gun,  the  royalists  were  seized  with  a  sud- 
den panic,  and  fled  in  consternation,  throwing  down 
•their  arms,  and  upsetting  everything  and  one  another 
in  their  precipitate  flight,  thus  presenting  an  easier 
mark  to  the  terrible  lance  of  iheir  pursuer.  The  only 
opposition  encountered  by  the  latter  was  from  one 
Josd'  Maria  Sanchez,  a  man  renowned  f 'r  his  courage 
and  much  feared  by  the  people  of  Merida,  who  com- 
pelled Paez  to  dismount  and  struggle  hard  with  him 
for  the  possession  of  the  exterminating  weapon.  Vic- 
torious at  last  over  his  formidable  antagonist,  the 
reckless  champion  remained  complete  master  of  the 
field.  It  was  then  that  Paez,  once  again  free  to  act 
according  to  his  own  judgment  and  impulses,  con- 
ceived the  idea  of  going  tlinmgh  the  ct-ntre  of  New 
(iranada  to  the  jdnins  of  C'asanare,  south  of  the  i»n»v- 
incc  of  A])ure.  Tliis  ])lan  was  the  result  of  (.-xpc- 
rience,  which  convinced  him  that  the  patriots  could 
not  triumjth,  notwithstanding  their  unheard-of  efforts, 
while  the  Spaniards  held  possession  of  the  jtlains  and 
controlled  the  supply  of  horses.  The  acquisition  of 
the  Llanos  gave  the  superiority  to  the  Spaniards,  ns, 
by  means  of  it,  they  had  a  source  of  supplies  and  a 


OUR  LEADER.  387 

safe  retreat.  Pncz  determined,  therefore,  to  make 
that  wild  region  the  hase  of  his  military  operations, 
and  with  this  object  organized  a  body  of  horsemen  in 
the  plains  of  Casanare,  which  ho  soon  after  led  into 
the  province  of  Apure. 

In  the  language  of  another,  "  no  man  was  better 
calculated  to  command  the  love  and  respect  of  his 
wild  soldicrv.  Great  bravery,  a  thorough  knowledge 
of  localities,  an  atfable  and  familiar  treatment  of  his 
followers,  procured  for  Paez  great  popularity  and 
an  unlimited  sway  over  the  minds  of  his  men.  lie 
was  one  of  the  best  riders  in  a  district  of  country  cel- 
ebrated for  good  horsemen,  and  understood  the  man- 
agement of  the  lance,  his  favorite  weapon,  almost  to 
perfection.  lie  possessed  great  bodily  strength  and 
agility,  and  few  could  compete  with  him  in  the  wild 
spurts  of  the  Llancros,  or  inhabitants  of  the  immense 
plains  of  A'enezuela." 

The  Llanos  are,  in  fact,  a  permanent  camp  of  mil- 
itary instruction  for  their  intrepid  inhabitants.  Ac- 
customed from  their  infancy  to  subdue  the  wild  horse, 
to  master  the  wild  bull,  to  swim  across  broad  streams, 
and  to  grapple  in  single  combat  with  the  crocodile, 
the  tiger  and  wnld  boar,  the  Llancros  learn  to  despise 
danger.  "When  the  war  turned  them  from  their  or- 
dinary occupations,  the  enemy  found  them  ready- 
made  soldiers.  Inhabiting  a  genial  atmosphere  and 
endowed  with  iron  constitutions,  their  wants  are 
few  and  insigiiificant ;  in  peace,  the  lazo  and  the 
horse  ;  in  war,  the  horse  and  the  lance.  Perfectly 
acquainted  with  the  country  and  unencumbered  with 
heavy  accoutrements,  the  dwellers  of  the  Llanos  can- 

^  15 


338  TUAVKIis   AND   ADVENTURES. 

not  1)0  conquered  except  by  men  of  tlie  same  region, 
nml  \\'nczuel:i  ]>osscsses  in  those  limitless  j)liiius  un«l 
in  the  breu.sti»  of  their  valorous  children,  the  Btronge.-i 
huhvark  of  her  national  independence. 

Tuez,  now  master  of  his  own  military  movements, 
restdved  to  meet  the  enemy  there,  and,  if  jiossible,  to 
brin^  about  an  engagement.  On  the  IGth  of  February, 
181(j,  he  commenced  his  march  in  j-ursuit  of  the  roy- 
aUst  chief,  Don  Francisco  Lopez,  and  in  three  hours' 
e.j)ace  met  him  at  a  place  called  2Jata  de  la  Miel,  on 
the  right  bank  of  the  river  Ajjurc.  The  royalist  leader 
had  two  ]>iece5  of  artillery  and  sixteen  Imndred  men, 
whom  he  drew  up  at  once  in  order  of  battle.  Pacz's 
forces  amounted  altogether  to  about  six  hundred  cav- 
alry. It  wa.s  evening  and  the  night  fast  advancing, 
on  which  account  many  of  the  j»atriut  ollicers  were  of 
opinion  that  the  engagement  should  be  postponed  un- 
til the  following  day.  Tliis  very  reason,  however,  de- 
termined the  leader  to  enter  at  once  into  action,  as  he 
feared  that  his  soldiers,  observing  the  great  superior- 
ity of  the  enemy  in  numbers,  might  take  advantage 
of  the  night  to  desert.  Paez  accordingly  divided  his 
forces  in  two  columns,  jdacing  the  one,  eom])Osed  of 
New  Granadians,  under  command  of  Captain  Genaro 
Vasquez,  and  the  other,  eom])Osed  of  Vcnezuelians, 
under  Caj^tain  IJamon  Xonato  Perez,  The  royalists 
"Were  com]detely  routed,  and  during  all  that  night  and 
the  two  following  days  the  forces  led  by  Paez  jnirsued 
and  ca]»tured  a  great  portion  of  those  under  Don 
Francisco  Lopez.  Such  was  the  action  of  Mata  de  la 
Mi«-1.  There  were  left  dead  on  the  fiild  four  hundred 
royalists,  and  a  great  numl)er  of  prisoners  were  taken 


OUR   LEADEU.  339 

together  Avitli  aT)out  three  tliousand  five  hundred 
horses  and  marly  all  the  enemy's  arms.  Four  months 
afterward,  in  June,  Lopez  again  crossed  the  Apure 
with  twelve  hundred  horsemen  and  four  hundred  in- 
fantry, but  Paez  met  him  near  Mantecal  and  com- 
pelled him  to  retreat,  after  losing  many  men  and 
horses. 

Notwithstanding  these  advantages  on  the  part  of 
the  patriot  forces,  the  result  of  the  following  cam- 
paigns (1814,  1815,  and  181C)  was  most  disastrous  to 
the  arms  of  the  republic  elsewhere  ;  Venezuela,  New 
Granada,  and  the  plains  of  Casauare  again  fell  into 
the  hands  of  the  vengeful  Spaniards.  In  1816,  a  very 
numerous  emigration  of  patriots,  consisting  of  men, 
women,  and  children,  in  a  state  of  great  destitution 
and  sufiering,  fled  to  the  wilderness  from  the  persecu- 
tion of  the  royalists,  and  took  refuge  in  the  camp  of 
Paez.  Many  persons  of  distinction  were  to  be  found 
among  the  fugitives,  and  a  system  of  government 
was  established  for  the  regulation  of  afiairs.  A  meet- 
ing of  officers  was  held  at  Arichuna,  and  Paez  ap- 
pointed supreme  chief,  with  the  rank  of  General  of 
Brigade.  lie  applied  himself  immediately  to  raise 
suffictent  forces  to  oppose  Don  Francisco  Lopez  and 
to  acquire,  if  possible,  some  resources  in  his  extreme 
want.  Tlie  hardships  and  privations  endured  by  the 
patriot  army  on  the  plains  can  scarcely  be  conceived. 
The  soldiers  were  so  destitute  of  clothing  as  to  be 
compelled  to  use  for  a  covering  the  hides  of  the  cattle 
freshly  killed  ;  very  few  had  hats,  none  shoes.  The 
ordinary  and  only  food  was  beef,  without  salt  and 
M-ithout  bread.     There  were,  in  addition  to  all  this. 


340 


TKAVKUS   AM)   ADVEXTUI 


continual  rains,  and  tlie  rivcre  and  creeks  had  over- 
flowed and  eovcivd  over  tlie  country.  They  wantid 
lior&es,  and  as  these  are  indispensable  to  the  Llaneroj^, 
they  must  be  obtained  before  any  thing:  eltc.  Only 
wild  horses  could  be  procured,  and  they  hud  to  be 
tamed  and  broken.  This  was  done  in  squadrons,  and 
it  was  a  curious  spectacle  to  see  five  or  six  hundre<i 
riders  at  a  time  struggling  to  subdue  these  wild  an- 
imals. Around  the  ground  were  stationed  several 
ofticers,  mounted  on  well-trained  horses,  whose  duty  it 
was  to  go  after  those  which  escaped  from  their  riders, 
to  j)revent  them  from  carrying  away  the  saddles,  al- 
tliough  the.^c  were  made  of  wood,  with  thongs  of  raw 
hides.  Many  years  after  these  scenes,  an  cye-witncss 
wrote  :  "  AVe  courted  danger  in  order  to  put  an  end, 
with  honor,  to  such  a  miserable  life.''  To  provide 
against  this  misery,  Paez  now  turned  his  attention  to 
the  nearest  source  of  supjily,  Carinas,  a  city  abound- 
ing in  all  the  commodities  he  stood  most  in  need  of. 
Although  nearly  two  hundred  miles  distant,  the 
patriot  chieftain  did  not  hesitate  to  invade  his  old 
antagonist  in  the  midst  of  the  rainy  season.  Tlic 
undertaking  could  not,  however,  be  executed  without 
great  peril  and  hardships,  he  having  to  contend  not 
only  against  the  inveterate  enemies  who  occupieil  all 
the  approaches  to  the  city,  but  against  the  inundation 
of  the  savannas  at  the  time.  The  exj^edition,  more- 
over, had  to  be  conducted  with  great  secrecy,  avoid- 
ing even  the  few  channels  left  open  in  those  inland 
seas  for  the  transit  of  men  on  horseback.  Not  in  the 
least  deterred  by  obstacles  so  fonnidable  in  themselves, 
Paez  got  together  one  thousand  picked  men,  and  two 


OUR  LEADER.  34|^ 

thousand  wliite  horses,  animals  of  this  color  being  re- 
puted the  best  swininiers.  AVith  these,  he  crossed 
the  Apure  and  several  other  streams,  then  at  the 
height  of  their  flood,  being  coni])elled  besides  to  ford 
extensive  lagoons  of  various  depths  to  avoid  the  nu- 
merous gunboats  of  the  enemy,  stationed  at  all  the  im- 
portant passes.  On  one  of  these,  on  the  river  Cana- 
gud,  the  expedition  was  fortunate  enough  to  capture 
by  surprise  a  gunboat  and  a  large  quantity  of  hides, 
which  were  left  behind  with  a  strong  guard  for  future 
use.  When  near  Bariuas,  Paez  sent  a  detachment  to 
surprise  also  the  town  of  Pedraza,  to  the  south-east 
of  the  cajntal,  with  tlie  object  of  drawing  the  atten- 
tion of  the  royalists  in  that  direction.  Tlie  ruse  suc- 
ceeded admirably  ;  the  small  detachment  of  men  car- 
ried every  thing  before  them,  penetrating  as  far  as 
the  plaza,  and  then  retreated,  according  to  instruc- 
tions, to  rejoin  the  main  body.  Enraged  at  their 
audacity,  the  Spanish  commander  at  Barinas  sent  out 
a  large  force  hi  pursuit  of  the  attacking  party,  thus 
weakening  his  own  force.  Paez  then  advanced 
against  Barinas,  disposing  his  line  of  march  in  single 
file,  each  horseman  followed  by  his  spare  horse,  tied 
to  the  tail  of  his  own  sumpter.  The  object  of  this 
arrangement  was  to  deceive  the  royalists  also  in  re- 
gard to  the  real  numbers  of  the  enemy,  which  from  a 
distance  presented  a  very  imposing  appearance.  Ba- 
rinas is  situated  on  the  border  of  an  extensive  plain, 
bounded  on  the  south  by  the  mesa  of  the  same  name, 
through  which  Paez  made  his  entry  into  the  doomed 
city  when  the  sun  was  in  the  meridian.  Tlie  dreaded 
army  of  "  departed  spirits  "  did  not  produce  a  more 


343  TRAVEI.S  AND  ADVEXTURES. 

n|)pulliii«^  (•«»nsternation  atnonf:  the  royalists  than  tlie 
ajn>:irilii)n  of  this  iiufxpt'ctotl  body  of  rajrgcd  hors^c- 
infii.  Tht-y  knew  I'lili  well  that,  owiii«^  to  the  over- 
flow of  the  savannas,  no  advance  could  be  made  upon 
the  city  from  the  south.  Tliey  felt  equally  secure 
afjainst  any  attack  from  the  north  and  from  the  cast, 
which  were  then  entirely  under  their  control,  while 
on  the  Mcst  they  were  still  better  j)rotected  by  the 
lofty  Sierra  Nevada.  Without  stoj>|»ing  to  ascertain 
the  real  character  of  the  force  before  them,  the  royal- 
ists collected  together  in  a  great  hurry  whatever  val- 
uables they  jirized  most,  and  had  already  loaded 
several  mules  with  them,  when  the  enemy,  dashing 
forward  in  full  gallop,  arrived  in  time  to  secure  the 
rich  booty,  after  disjiersing  the  owners  and  their 
troops.  Tlie  half-clad  followers  of  Paez  then  fell 
uj)on  the  stores  and  abandoned  houses  of  the  royalists 
with  the  eagerness  of  men  who  had  not  seen  a  respect- 
able garment  in  a  long  time-  One  of  the  ofticers  was 
fortunate  enough  to  capture  a  mule  loaded  with  thirty 
thousand  dollars  in  gold,  while  every  man  in  the  party 
got  more  goods  than  he  could  carry. 

Paez  only  remained  a  sufficient  time  at  Parinas 
to  arrange  the  transi)ortation  of  the  booty,  which  took 
up  nearly  all  the  sjtare  horses  l)rought  along  for  this 
purpose  ;  without  these  and  the  hides  seized  at  Ca- 
nagud,  it  would  have  been  impossible  to  remove  it  to 
the  patriot  camp  in  the  wilderness.  Owing  to  the 
presence  of  a  strong  flotilla  of  gunboats  at  the  mouth 
of  the  river,  the  cai>tured  vessel  had  to  be  abandoned 
after  a  while,  and  the  wearisome  route  across  the  in- 
undated savannas  resumed  by  the  returning  caravan. 


OUR  LEADER.  343 

The  hides  served  the  double  purpose  of  covering 
for  the  goads  and  lighters  to  ferry  them  over  the 
streanis.  This  species  of  leather  canoe  is  an  inge- 
nious contrivance  frequently  resorted  to  in  those  wild 
regions  -wherever  there  is  a  scarcity  of  boats,  and  con- 
sists in  a  bag  or  trough  formed  by  passing  a  rope 
through  a  number  of  holes  round  the  rim  of  the  hide, 
and  gathering  it  over  the  goods.  One  end  of  the 
rope  of  sullicient  length  is  then  handed  over  to  a  good 
swimmer,  who  takes  it  between  his  teeth  and  tows 
the  lighter  after  him.  In  this  manner,  the  immense 
booty  obtained  at  Barinas  was  successfull}'^  trans- 
ported over  one  hundred  miles  of  inundated  plains,  to 
the  inconceivable  joy  of  the  wretched  emigrants  at  the 
camp  of  Arichuiui. 

After  allowing  his  troop  sufficient  time  to  rest 
from  their  iatigues,  and  finding  it  to  his  advantage  to 
resume  the  oflensive,  at  least  to  occupy  the  attention 
of  his  soldiers,  Paez  commenced  his  march  toward 
Achaguas,  although  the  season  was  still  very  severe. 
The  march  was  slow,  as,  besides  the  difficulties  of  the 
road,  they  were  encumbered  by  numerous  emigrants, 
and  compelled,  at  every  step,  to  procure  supplies  on 
account  of  the  want  of  stores.  The  great  multitude 
of  men,  women,  and  children,  moving  with  the  army, 
represented  to  the  life  the  picture  of  a  nomadic  people 
without  home  or  country,  who,  after  consuming  the 
resources  of  the  district  they  have  occupied,  raise 
their  tents  to  conquer  another.*     In  this  manner  they 

•  Ncvcrthclcs.-*,  P;icz  took  particular  care  to  preserve  the  l)recd  of 
cattle  ou  the  plums  of  Apure.  Xotwithstandiiig  that  he  wa^^  continually 
engaged  in  war,  he  isoucd  most  eflettive  orders  to  prevent  its  cxtinc- 


;5|.J  Ti:.\VKLS   AND   ADVENTURES, 

arrived  at  the  ^nd  hills  or  Mt'-danos  de  Ara|ninyun:>. 
whrir,  having  left  \hv  t'iiii<rnuits  under  the  i»roti-(ti<M 
of  li  resolute  hand  of  horst-ujen,  Pac-z  incorporated  :ill 
the  men  eapahle  of  bearin*^  anns  in  his  ranks,  an<l 
marched  apiinst  l^jicz,  whom  he  8upj)Ope<l  to  be  at 
Achagiias.  But.  after  j)roceeding  a  short  distance,  he 
learned  that  tlio  enemy,  to  the  number  of  pcvcntecu 
hundred  horsemen  and  four  hundred  infantry,  was  at 
the  cattle  fiirm  called  Vagtial.  Pacz  then  changrt'd 
his  course  and  took  his  j)0;^iti<»n  between  the  enemy 
and  the  c>ty  of  Achagiias.  His  anny  was  divided 
into  three  columns,  commanded  by  Generals  Urda- 
neta  and  Servier,  and  by  CVilonel  Santunder ;  they 
were  nearly  all  armed  with  lanct\'«,  very  few  with 
muskets  or  carabines,  and  the  supjily  of  ammunition 
was  scanty.  On  the  8th  of  October,  they  came  in 
sight  of  the  enemy,  and  although  their  number  much 
exceeded  that  of  the  j>atriot  forces,  Pacz  did  not  hesi- 
tate to  give  them  battle.  Tlie  conflict  was  long  and 
Bcvcre,  but  it  was  decidedly  in  favor  of  the  patriots. 
Don  Francisco  Lopez  was  compelled  to  abandon  his 
IX)sition,  after  sustaining  a  severe  loss  :  on  the  next 
day  he  refused  to  renew  tlio  battle,  and  fell  back  njKm 
Achaguas,  having  ]»revi<)usly  shipj>ed  on  the  river 
Arauca  all  his  artilhry  and  wounded  for  San  Fer- 
nando. On  the  13th,  Lopez,  having  made  a  short 
resistance,  abandoned  the  town,  of  which  Pacz  took 
possession.  Shortly  after  this,  Ix)pez  being  attacked 
by  surprise  on  the  banks  (»f  the  Apurc,  was  utterly 

tion.  The  origin  of  nil  iho  citllo  rstat<*»  which  arc  at  present  to  l>o 
found  in  VcnczuiKi  '\»  to  \)e  iraccil  to  the  .\purc  pbina. 


OUR  LEADER.  345 

dcfeatctl,  liis  forces  dispersed,  and  he  himself  lost  his 
life. 

At  the  head  of  his  brave  soldiers,  Paez  rescued 
the  province  of  Apure,  a  part  of  that  of  Barinas,  in 
Venezuela,  and  recovered  that  of  Casanare,  in  New- 
Granada,  Having  increased  his  force  by  the  new 
levies  raised  in  these  provinces  and  in  others,  he 
formed  that  army  which  subsequently  rendered  such 
important  services  in  the  cause  of  freedom,  and  whose 
exploits  have  been  so  much  admired. 

It  is  not  my  purpose  to  enter  here  into  a  detailed 
account  of  the  events  of  that  epoch  ;  the  limits  of  this 
chapter,  and  the  relationship  existing  between  the 
author  and  the  subject  of  this  hasty  sketch,  preclude 
the  possibility  of  such  an  undertaking,  especially  when 
better  pens  have  compiled  them  in  the  Enajclopa'dia 
Britannica — articles,  Colombia  and  Bolivar  ;  in  the 
American  Cyclopcrdia — articles,  Pacz  and  Venezue- 
la ;  also  in  Campaigns  and  Cruises  in  Venezuela,  and 
various  other  works  by  English  officers  who  served  in 
the  ranks  of  the  patriot  armies  at  the  time,  to  which 
English  and  American  readers  of  history  are  especially 
referred  for  a  more  comprehensive  view  of  that  fearful 
struggle.  My  object  is  to  give  my  readers  some  idea 
respecting  the  nature  of  that  contest  in  that  part  of 
Venezuela  which,  after  years  of  unheard-of  privations 
and  almost  insurmountable  difficulties,  furnished  at 
last  the  elements  which  decided  the  fate  of  Colombia 
upon  the  plains  of  Carabobo,  Jiinin,  and  Boyacd. 

Vain  were,  after  this,  the  efforts  of  the  Spanish 


340  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES. 

invmlcrs  to  destroy  wliat  they  contcraptuoiisly  called 
the  Gati'j  of  A  pure,  in  their  official  document*.  Sev- 
eral expeditions  were  despatched  from  Sjmin  about 
this  time,  under  the  command  of  the  ablest  j^enerals, 
and  j)rovided  with  all  the  material  for  a  vigorous  cnm- 
l»aign.  One  of  the.se,  led  by  Lieut. -General  Don 
Pablo  ISIorillo,  set  sail  from  Cadiz  on  the  18th  of 
February,  1815.  It  cousi.stcd  of  eixty-tive  transport 
chips  and  other  smaller  vessels,  convoyed  by  the  line- 
of-battle  ship  San  Pedro  Alcantara  (lost  afterwanls 
during  the  blockade  of  the  Lsland  of  Margarita),  mount- 
ing seventy-four  guns.  The  total  number  of  men 
composing  this  expedition,  including  marines,  amount- 
ed to  fifteen  thousand.  The  ships  carrying  this  for- 
midable armament  cast  anchor,  on  the  third  of  April, 
1815,  in  Puerto  Santo,  to  the  windward  of  Campano, 
in  Venezuela.  Morillo,  the  commander  of  this  cx- 
j)edition,  was  a  brave,  active,  and  energetic  officer, 
cool  in  action,  a  severe  di.scipliuarian,  and  was  beloved 
by  his  soldiers.  Besides  this  force,  there  was  a  royal- 
ist army  of  five  thousand  men  in  Venezuela,  com- 
manded by  Morales. 

At  first,  (ieneral  Morillo  met  with  little  or  no  op- 
position, until,  going  to  the  interior,  he  encountered 
the  wild  horsemen  of  the  plains.  The  haughty  tem- 
per of  the  Spanish  commander-in-chief  could  not  Iwar 
that  a  handful  of  demi-savages,  as  he  was  pleased  to 
style  tliein,  should  insult  the  pennant  of  Castile  any 
longer,  and  he  therefore  prepared  to  ca])ture  every  one 
of  them,  with  what  residts,  the  sequel  o^  this  narra- 
tive will  show. 


OUR  LEADER.  347 

111  the  early  part  of  January,  1817,  the  Spanish 
commanders,  La  Torre  anil  Calzada,  effected  a  junc- 
tion at  Guasdualito,  on  the  plains  of  Apure.  About 
the  same  time,  the  royalist  brigadier,  Don  Ramon 
Correa,  and  Lieutenant-Colonel  Don  Salvador  Gorrin, 
left  San  Fernando,  and  with  their  cavalry  and  infantry 
attacked  the  lino  of  the  patriots,  and  completely 
routed  Guerrero,  the  republican  general,  forcing  him 
to  fall  back  upon  Paez,  after  a  bloody  battle,  in  which 
the  patriots  sustained  a  considerable  loss.  The  siege 
of  San  Fernando  being  raised  in  consequence  of  this 
triumph,  the  attention  of  La  Torre  and  Calzada  was 
directed  to  Paez,  who  presented  the  greatest  obstacle 
to  their  occupation  of  the  river  Apure  and  its  adjacent 
plains.  An  army  of  four  thousand  veteran  soldiers 
of  all  arms,  including  seventeen  hundred  of  the  cavalry 
commanded  by  Colonel  Reniijio  Ramos,  presented  a 
force  sufficient  to  inspire  the  Spanish  commander  with 
confidence,  particularly  as  La  Torre,  who  was  a  brave 
and  accomplished  soldier,  was  anxious  to  distinguish 
himself  among  his  companions  in  arms.  He,  there- 
fore, marched  to  tlie  town  of  San  Yicente,  following 
the  right  bank  of  the  river  Apure,  with  the  intention 
of  attacking  Paez,  who  was  then  in  Mantecal.  Oa 
the  28th  of  January,  the  patriots  and  royalists  met 
on  the  plain  of  Mucuritas  ;  the  former,  with  a  body 
of  cavalry  amounting  only  to  eleven  hundred  horse- 
men, and  the  latter  with  the  forces  already  men- 
tioned. The  result  of  the  engagement  was  as  unfor- 
tunate to  La  Torre  as  it  pnn'cd  advantageous  to  the 
patriots  under  Paoz,  who  on  this  occasion  made  up 
for  his  inferiority  in  numbers  by  means  of  a  stratagem 


348  TKAVEUS  AND  ADVENTURES. 

which  nearly  resulted  in  the  destruction  of  the  entire 
Spanish  army.  The  order  of  battle  adopted  bV  the 
royalist  leader  was  the  best  which  the  nature  of  the 
ground  and  the  enemy  ho  hml  to  contend  with  would 
])erniit  ;  his  infantry  presented  a  strong  and  compact 
front,  while  his  cavalry  was  posted  on  the  wings  and 
on  the  rear.  Paez  having  only  cavalry,  could  not  come 
within  the  range  of  the  enemy's  muskets  without 
running  the  risk  of  being  wholly  destroyed  ;  and  he 
consequently  conceived  the  idea  of  separating  the 
royalist  horse  from  the  infantrj'.  The  presumptuous 
confidence  of  Colonel  Ramos  and  the  inexj^eriencc  of 
La  Torre  in  the  Llanero's  tactics,  facilitated  the  exe- 
cution of  Pacz's  ])lan.  Having  formed  two  columns 
with  a  portion  of  his  forces,  Paez  ordered  them  to  at- 
tack the  enemy's  flanks^  and  then  immediately  to  re- 
treat, as  if  they  had  been  repulsed.  His  object  was 
to  dmw  out  the  enemy's  cavalrj-  in  the  heat  of  the  pur- 
suit, and  at  once  surround  them  with  two  other  col- 
umns, which  he  had  ready  prepared  for  that  puri>ose. 
This  simple  maiuvuvrc  had  the  desired  eftect,  and  La 
Torre's  cavalry  was  speedily  destroyed.  The  European 
hussjirs  alone  escaped,  because'  they  advaneed  with  less 
precipitancy  and  in  better  order.  The  rej»ul>lican 
leader  now  ordered  the  dry  grass  of  the  plain  to  beset 
on  fire,  and  it  instantly  became  a  sea  of  flame.  For- 
tunately for  La  Torre,  his  infantry  retreating  precipi- 
tately in  close  column,  succeeded  in  reaching  a  spot 
which  had  bi*en  burned  some  time  before.  Kven 
there  his  infantry  sustained  several  charges  from  Paez's 
cavalry,  compelling  him  ultimately  to  seek  a  refuge 
in    a  dense  wood    on  the    right  bank  of  the  Ajiurc, 


OUR   LEADER.  349 

where  the  pursuit  ceased  for  want  of  infantry  on  the 
part  of  the  patriots.  Of  this  hattlc,  General  Morillo 
wrote :  "  Fourteen  consecutive  charges  upon  my 
wearied  battalions  convinced  me  that  these  men  were 
not  a  small  gang  of  cowards,  as  had  been  represented 
to  me."  On  the  following  morning  Morillo  joined 
La  Torre,  and  continued  with  him  his  march  to  San 
Fernando  without  crossing  the  Apure,  and  always  in 
sight  of  the  republican  cavalry  ;  Paez  finally  perceiv- 
ing that  the  enemy  avoided  a  new  engagement,  retired 
to  San  Juan  de  Payara. 

In  1817,  General  Bolivar  appeared  in  the  province 
of  Guayana,  and  his  first  effort  was  to  open  his  com- 
munication with  Paez,  who  did  not  hesitate  to  recog- 
nize his  authority,  although  widely  separated  from  the 
Liberator's  head  quarters. 

From  this  period  the  patriots  began  to  extend 
their  operations  ;  a  series  of  brilliant  actions  took 
place  at  various  points,  and  the  republican  cause  ap- 
peared to  revive  on  the  line  of  the  Apure  and  the 
Orinoco  rivers.  The  acquisition  of  Guayana  under 
Piar  was  an  important  and  decisive  event  in  the  his- 
tory of  the  war ;  by  means  of  it,  Bolivar  was  in  a  situ- 
ation to  harass  the  posts  occupied  by  the  royalists,  on 
any  point  of  the  immense  line  embraced  by  the  Ori- 
noco and  its  numerous  tributaries. 

In  the  latter  part  of  January,  1818,  Bolivar  joined 
him  with  two  thousand  five  hundred  disciplined 
troops,  among  them  the  famous  British  legion  lately 
arrived,  increasing  the  republican  forces  to  about  ten 
thousand  infantry  and  the  same  number  of  cavalry, 
which  last  was  composed  of  wcU-trained  men,  accus- 


350  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES. 

tomed  to  victory  on  the  plains  of  Apurc.  The  plan 
of  the  cainjiaij^n  havin«x  been  arranged  between  Bt>- 
livar  and  Paez,  they  resolved  to  cross  over  the  river 
Ai)ure  and  march  forthwith  on  Calabizo,  where  Mo- 
rillo  had  establislied  his  headquarters.  But  here  a 
great  ditHculty  presented  itself;  the  patriot  forces 
had  no  boats  in  which  to  cross  that  broad  and  deep 
river.  It  was  then  that  Paez  conceived  and  executed 
the  extraordinary  plan  of  capturing  with  cavalry  the 
gun-boats  of  the  enemy  stationed  on  the  river,  oppo- 
site the  point  toward  which  they  were  marching.  An 
eye-witness  and  impartial  foreigner,  attAched  to  the 
British  Legion,  thus  describes  this  hazanlous  under- 
taking :  "  Bolivar  stood  on  the  shore  gazing  at  these 
(the  gun-boats)  in  despair,  and  continuetl  discon- 
solately parading  in  front  of  them,  when  Paez,  who 
had  been  on  the  look-out,  rode  up  and  inquired  the 
cause  of  his  disquietude.  His  Excellency  observed, 
'  I  would  give  the  world  to  have  possession  of  the 
Spanish  flotilla,  for  without  it  I  can  never  cross  the 
river,  and  the  troops  are  unable  to  march.'  *  It 
shall  be  yours  in  an  hour,'  replied  Paez.  '  It  is  impos- 
sible,' said  Bolivar,  *  and  the  men  must  all  perish.' 
'  Leave  that  to  me,'  rejoined  Paez,  and  gallope<l  off. 
In  a  few  minutes  he  returne<l,  bringing  up  his  guard 
of  honor,  consisting  of  300  lancers  selected  iVom  tho 
main  body  of  the  Llanoros,  for  their  jiroved  bravery 
and  strength,  and  leading  them  to  the  bank,  thus 
briefly  addressed  them  :  *  We  must  have  these  flc- 
chtras,  or  die.     Let  those  follow   Tio*  who  please.' 

•  Tncle.     A  name  hr  which  the  LUnoros  frequently  »ddr«w  Pact 


OUR  LEADER.  35I 

And  at  tlic  same  moment,  spurring  his  horse,  dashed 
into  the  river  and  swam  towards  the  flotilla.  The 
guard  followed  him  with  their  lances  in  their  hands, 
now  encouraging  their  horses  to  bear  up  against  the 
current  by  swimming  by  their  sides  and  patting  their 
necks,  and  then  shouting  to  scare  away  the  alligators, 
of  which  there  were  hundreds  in  the  river,  till  they 
reached  the  boats,  when,  mounting  their  horses,  they 
sprang  from  their  backs  on  board  them,  headed  by 
their  leader,  and,  to  the  astonishment  of  those  who 
beheld  them  from  the  shore,  captured  every  one  of 
them.  To  English  oflicers,  it  may  appear  incon- 
ceivable that  a  body  of  cavalry,  with  no  other  arms 
than  their  lances,  and  no  other  mode  of  conveyance 
across  a  rapid  river  than  their  horses,  should  attack 
and  take  a  fleet  of  gun-boats  amidst  shoals  of  alliga- 
tors ;  but,  strange  as  it  may  seem,  it  was  actually 
accomplished,  and  there  are  many  officers  now  in 
England  who  can  testify  to  tlie  truth  of  it." 

The  unprejudiced  author  of  this  narrative,  which 
I  am  compelled  to  shorten  for  want  of  space,  then 
adds  : — "  In  short,  he  is  altogether  a  most  wonderful 
man  ;  and  were  the  numerous  and  extraordinary  in- 
cidents of  his  life  to  be  formed  into  a  narrative,  it 
would  have  more  the  semblance  of  romance  than 
authentic  biography.  He  is,  above  all  things,  a  sin- 
cere patriot,  and  certainly  a  bright  ornament  to  his 
country."* 

•  RecoUccdons  nf  a  Service  of  Three  Years  during  tJie  Wur  of  Exter- 
mination in  t/u  KcpufJict  of  Venezuela  and  Colombia.  London,  1828. 
Sec  also  Campaigns  and  Cruises  in  Venezuela.     London,  1831. 


353  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES. 

Thin  dangcmus  inanoouvre  was  pcrfornuii  at  a 
distance  of  two  miles  from  Sail  Fernando,  which, 
from  that  moment,  was  cut  ulf  from  all  communi- 
cation with  Morillo.  The  patriot  army  being  thus 
provided  with  the  means  of  transiwrtation  across  the 
Apure,  a  botly  of  cavalry  was  immediately  despatch- 
ed iu  the  direction  of  the  road  leading  to  Calabozo, 
and  succeeded  in  capturing  by  surprise  a  party  of 
twenty-five  men,  who  composed  the  advanced  post 
of  the  enemy.  In  consequence  of  this  manmuvR^, 
Morillo  was  also  taken  by  surprise  on  the  11th  of 
February,  at  a  time  wlien  his  hussars  and  a  portion 
of  the  battalion  of  Castille  were  at  n  place  calle.l 
Mision  dc  Abajo,  about  three  miles  to  the  south  <  i 
Calabozo.  Only  a  few  men  from  both  regiment-, 
with  a  Colonel,  succeeded  in  making  their  escape  t 
the  intrenchmonts  in  the  city.  The  sturdy  veteran. 
Morillo,  could  not  believe  the  report  of  his  Colom  1. 
that  the  whole  patriot  army  was  marching  u})un 
him.  Haughtily  accusing  that  officer  of  cowardice, 
he  sjiUied  forth  in  person  with  his  staff  to  reconnoitre 
what  he  8Ujipo.sed  to  be  a  band  of  guerrillas  ;  but  he 
himself  had  to  flee  for  safety  into  the  city,  narrowly 
escaping  death  througli  the  stoical  heroism  of  his  in- 
sulted Colonel,  who  threw  himself  between  the  Com- 
mander-in-chief and  the  lance  of  one  of  Paez's  staff 
oflicers. 

Instead  of  investing  the  royalists  at  once,  Bolivar 
committed  the  error  of  encamping  for  the  night  with 
all  his  troops  at  the  village  of  El  Rastro,  about 
four  mile?  this  si.le  of  Calabozo.     Morillo  imj^roved 


OUIi    LKADKR  353 

tins  opportnnity  to  abandon  the  city  nnder  cover  of 
niglit,  and  fell  back  on  Caracas,  bv  the  mountainous 
route  of  El  Sombrero,  where  the  patriots  could  not 
follow  him  on  account  of  the  inferiority  of  their  in- 
fantry. Paez  then  returned  to  tlic  Apure,  while  Bol- 
ivar remained  with  the  bulk  of  the  army,  to  be  soon 
after  entirely  annihilated  at  La  Puerta  by  the  royalist 
CTcnoral.  But  the  Genius  of  the  Andes  was  untiring 
in  his  efforts  to  see  his  country,  and  the  rest  of  the 
South  American  Continent,  free  from  European  op- 
pression. 

Oil  the  lOtli  January,  1810,  Bolivar  joined  Paez 
again  at  San  Juan  de  Payara  with  a  newly  organized 
?orps  cTarmee^  and  their  united  forces  amounted  to 
four  thousand  men.  Bolivar,  as  a  recompense  for  the 
important  services  rendered  by  Paez  to  his  country, 
raised  him  to  the  rank  of  General  of  Division,  and 
left  him  in  command  of  all  the  forces,  while  he  pro- 
L'eedcd  to  Angostura,  where  Congress  was  to  meet  in 
February.  About  this  time  the  royalist  Generals, 
MoriHo  and  La  Torre,  also  joined  their  forces  at  San 
Fernando,  amounting  in  all  to  six  thousand  five  hun- 
:ired  men  of  all  arms.  With  these  they  immediately 
proceeded  to  attack  the  patriots  at  San  Juan  in  the 
beginning  of  February.  Paez  retreated  toward  the 
Orinoco,  transported  all  his  infantry  to  the  island  of 
[Jrbana,  and  took  up  a  position,  with  his  guard  and 
two  squadrons  of  carabineers,  at  Cunavichc ;  the  re- 
mainder of  his  horsemen  he  stationed  on  the  plains 
jf  Rio  Claro,  and  a  most  cumbersome  emigration  of 
:en  thousand  patriot  refugees,  that  followed  his  camp, 
ivas  taken  to   Araguaquen.      The  plan   adopted  by 


354  TKAVKI-S  AND  ADVENTL'RKS. 

Pocz  on  this  occasion  was  i)recisely  the  same  as  the 
one  always  practised  by  him  in  former  campnigns  ; 
yet  the  royalist  General  was  so  infatuated  by  his 
caj^erness  to  destroy  the  "  Gan<^  of  Apuro,"  that  he 
was  easily  led  away  into  the  wilderness  before  he  was 
conscious  of  his  dan«;er.  On  the  llth  of  February 
Morillo  forced  tlie  pass  of  the  river  Amuca,  and  the 
patriots  fell  back,  keeping:  their  adversary  under  ob- 
servation ;  at  night,  however,  they  retraced  their 
steps,  and  in  the  morning  appeared  situated  at  a  short 
distance  in  the  opposite  direction.  Morillo  counter- 
marched, and  for  many  days  wandered  over  that  wil- 
derness, renewing  his  efforts  to  overtake  an  enemy 
•which  kept  constantly  before  liim,  like  the  mirage  of 
the  desert,  and  which  did  him  groat  injury  by  driviii:: 
away  the  cattle.  The  only  means  he  could  employ  t  . 
overtake  his  oppnent  and  force  him  to  battle,  was 
to  use  his  cavalry  ;  but  this  jeopardized  the  only 
force  which  procured  the  subsistence  of  the  army,  an  1 
might  thus  compromise  its  safety.  Not  even  at  night 
were  the  royalists  allowed  to  rest  in  peace.  On  one 
occasion  Paez  caused  a  number  of  wild  horses  to  be 
])rought  before  the  enemy's  camp,  and  tying  dry  hides 
to  the  animals'  tails,  they  were  stampeded  with  shouts 
and  shots  towards  the  encampment.  Imagining  them- 
selves attacked  by  the  whole  Llanero  cavalry,  the  roy- 
alists sprang  to  their  arms  and  opened  fire  on  the 
affrighted  horses,  which  caused  that  night  more  alarm 
and  confusion  among  them  than  the  two  thousand 
oxen  which  llaniiibal  hurled  against  the  Roman  camp. 
At  length,  convinced  of  the   inutility  of  his  effort*, 


OUR   hKADER.  355 

tlorillo  recrosscd  the  Arauca,  and  in  the  early  part  of 
larch  established  his  headquarters  at  Achaguaa. 

On  the  first  day  of  April,  General  Morillo  again 
csunied  the  offensive,  marching  along  the  left  hank 
f  the  Arauca  and  approaching  the  position  occupied 
n  the  right  bank  by  Generals  Paez  and  Bolivar ;  the 
itter  had  recently  returned  from  the  Congress  at 
Lngostura,  where  he  had  been  elected  President  of 
lie  Republic,  and  resumed  the  comnumd  in  chief  of 
lie  army.  Morillo  made  several  feigned  movements 
0  the  right  and  to  the  left,  as  if  he  wished  to  cross 
Lie  river,  and  at  noon  of  the  2d,  took  up  his  posi- 
ion  nearly  opposite  that  of  Bolivar,  out  of  range  of 
lie  cannon.  For  the  purpose  of  drawing  him  forth, 
icneral  Paez  crossed  the  river  with  one  hundred  and 
fty  horsemen,  composed  mostly  of  officers  who  vol- 
nteered  for  the  hazardous  undertaking ;  with  these 
c  formed  three  small  columns  and  advanced  upon 
lie  enemy.  Morillo  immediately  i)ut  all  his  forces  in 
lotion ;  his  infantry  and  artillery  commenced  firing, 
rliile  the  cavalry  charged  upon  the  small  band  of 
atriots,  hoping  to  overpower  by  numbers  the  weak 
olumns  of  the  enemy  ;  he  himself  directed  his  course 
oward  the  bank  of  the  river.  Paez,  in  the  mean 
ime,  retreated  in  order,  purposely  leaving  the  pass 
f  the  river  on  his  rear.  Morillo,  observing  this,  and 
apposing  him  inevitably  lost,  detached  from  the 
rmy  all  the  cavalry  in  pursuit  of  Paez,  and  directed 
.is  fire  upon  the  right  bank,  defended  by  some  light 
roops.  As  soon,  however,  as  the  republican  General 
lerceived  that  the  enemy's  horse  were  at  a  consider- 
ble  distance  from  the  armv,  and  in  disorder,  he  faced 


35G  TKAVKUS   AND  ADVESTCBES. 

about  siuMt'uly,  attacked  his  |>ursncTS  in  front  and  on 
tlu-  llaiiks,  in  hinall  ^r(»uj)ti  of  twenty  men,  and  with- 
out giving  theui  time  to  recover  from  their  astonith- 
nient  or  to  re-form  the  lines,  he  routed  them,  oc- 
casioning great  loss.  In  vain  they  made  tho  most 
obstinate  resistance — in  vain  the  carabineers  dis- 
mounted— all  their  etforts  were  useless  ;  disconcerted 
and  taken  by  8urj)rise,  all  those  who  o|)|)osed  the 
vigorous  attack  were  killed  uj)on  the  spot.  The  vic- 
tors pursued  the  remnant.-^  of  the  force  as  far  as  the  en- 
emy's lines,  slaying  all  whom  they  ovcrti»ok.  Their 
infantry,  thntwn  into  confusion,  sought  refuge  in  the 
woods,  the  artillery  ccju^ed  firing,  and  night  pre- 
vcntetl  the  further  destruction  of  the  royalist  army. 
On  the  day  following  this  encount«T,  Bolivar  isbued 
a  decree,  conferring  the  croiis  of  Liberators  {Libcrta- 
dores)  on  all  the  olficers,  sergeants,  corporals,  and  sol- 
diers, who  fought  in  this  engagement,  known  in  his- 
tory by  the  name  of  Queseras  del  Medio  ;  while  the 
following  pruclamatitin  announced  to  the  army  the 
success  recently  obtained  by  the  republican  arms : 


SIMON    noLlVAU    rRr.Sinr.NT.    Etc.  Em 

"  To  thi'  ILrofs  of  th<'  Ann  If  of  A  pure  : 

"  S()i.!)iKi;s  I  YdU  have  just  jtcrfurmcd  the  mo?t 
extraordinary  action  that  can  be  recorded  in  the  mili- 
tary history  of  nations — one  hundrt^l  and  lifty  men,  or, 
rather,  one  hundred  and  fifty  heroes,  le<l  on  by  the 
undaunted  Ciencral  Paez,  have  deliberately  attacked 
in    front    the   whole   Spanish  army,  under  Morillo ; 


J 


OUR   LEADER.  357 

irtillery,  infantry,  cavalry,  nothinp:  availed  to  dc- 
end  the  enemy  from  the  hundred  and  lifty  com- 
janions  of  the  intrepid  Paez.  The  eolunins  of  their 
•avalry  have  disappeared  under  the  strokes  of  our 
anees  ;  their  intantry  sought  a  shelter  in  the  woods  ; 
he  roar  of  their  cannon  was  silenced  before  the  breasts 
)f  our  horses,  and  only  the  darkness  of  night  j)rescrved 
he  army  of  the  tyrant  from  complete  and  absolute 
lestruction. 

"  Soldiers  !  The  deed  you  have  performed  is  but 
he  prelude  of  what  you  can  accomplish.  Prepare 
hen  for  the  combat,  and  reckon  on  victory,  which  you 
■arry  on  the  point  of  your  lances  and  bayonets. 

"  EOLIVAR. 
"  IIead-qvarters  at  Potkeritos  Marrekenos,  April  3,  1819." 

After  this  engagement,  Morillo,  finding  himself 
igain  deprived  of  his  cavalry  in  the  heart  of  the  sa- 
'annas,  retreated  precipitately  to  Achaguas,  and 
inally  to  San  Fernando,  which  j^lace  he  fortified 
trongly,  and  recrossing  the  Apure,  sought  a  more  ad- 
'antageous  position  against  the  attacks  of  his  hover- 
ng  enemy, 

Tlie  engagement  of  Queseras  del  Medio  was  the 
)recursor  of  new  plans  and  bold  projects,  combined 
)etween  Polivar  and  Paez.  The  i)lains  of  Venezuela, 
)eing  now  entirely  rescued  from  the  enemy,  these  two 
Generals  arranged  the  dangerous  and  important  ex- 
)edition  that  was  to  give  freedom  to  Xew  Grana- 
la.  Paez  had  the  honor  accorded  him  of  choosing 
vhich  of  the  two  should  command  the  expedition, 
^iiev  both  airreed  that  Bolivar  should  march  into  New 


858 


TK.WKUS   AM>   ADVENTDRBB. 


Granada,  and  that  Paez  should  preserve,  at  all  riskp. 
the  jtossession  of  the  plains  of  Ajmre.  Victoiv 
erowneii  the  rcpubliean  anus  in  New  Granada,  anl 
Paez  resolutely  and  suecessfully  defended  tho  im- 
portant territory  confided  to  his  care  and  protection. 

On  the  17th  December,  1S19,  Venezuchi  and  New 
Granada  were  united  into  onej^reat  republic,  under  the 
name  of  Colombia,  with  a  territory  embracing  nearly 
500,000  square  miles. 

The  year  1S21  is  celebrated  for  the  important  vic- 
tory obtained  by  the  republican  army,  under  Bolivar 
and  Paez,  on  the  field  of  Carabobo,  which  secured 
Venezuela  to  the  patriots.  General  Bolivar's  forces 
amounted  to  6,000  men.  Only  the  first  division  of 
the  army,  commanded  by  Paez,  took  part  in  the 
battle.  This  division  was  composed  of  the  gallant 
British  Legion,  already  alluded  to,  tho  battalion 
of  Apure,  and  1,500  horsemen.  The  field  of  Cara- 
bul)o  is  a  vast  and  oi>en  plain,  lying  in  a  soutlurly 
direction  from  Valencia.  An  army  endeavoring  to 
enter  this  jdain  from  Tinaquillo,  as  the  patriot  army 
was  attempting  to  d«»,  is  obliged,  after  passing  the 
river  Chirgua,  to  penetrate  over  the  defile  called  Buena 
Vista,  lying  to  the  northeast.  Tliis  defile  is  a  formi- 
dable position,  on  which  a  few  men  can  easily  arrest 
the  progress  of  an  army.  If  this  pa.<s  be  gained,  and 
the  many  obstructions  be  overcome,  which  an  enemy 
can  e:v-iily  ojipose  over  a  rough  and  craggy  road  of 
considerable  length,  there  still  remains  a  narrow  val- 
ley to  be  traversed,  formed  by  hills,  which  constitute 
the  entrance  on  the  we>t  to  the  plain  of  Carab<»bo  ; 
here  the  level  ground  commences.     General  La  Torre, 


OUR   LEADER.  359 

the  Spanish  commander,  had  stationed  in  the  valley 
and  on  both  sides  on  the  hills  commanding  it,  several 
pieces  of  artillery,  as  well  as  strong  bodies  of  infantry. 
On  the  plain  near  the  opening  of  the  valley  the  ex- 
tended line  of  infantry  was  deployed  in  order  of  bat- 
tle, with  its  right  resting  npon  a  thicket ;  next  fol- 
lowed another  line,  and  between  the  tianks  of  both, 
there  were  two  strong  bodies  of  cavalry.  The  second 
line  of  battle  had  on  its  left  the  road  to  El  Pao,  and 
the  cavalry  on  the  same  side  was  stationed  on  the 
brow  of  a  hill  over  which  that  road  passes  ;  the  sum- 
mit of  the  hill  was  occupied  by  a  battalion.  Such 
was  the  military  position  of  the  Spanish  forces,  amount- 
ing on  this  occasion  to  9,000  men.  On  the  24th  of 
June,  the  patriot  General  occupied  the  defile,  and 
from  that  place  observed  the  position  of  the  enemy. 
The  narrow  road  pursued  by  Bolivar  allowed  him 
only  the  room  necessary  to  file  off,  and  the  Spaniards 
not  only  guarded  the  outlet  into  the  ])lain,  but  com- 
manded the  valley  with  their  artillery  and  a  large 
body  of  infantry.  The  position  was  impregnable. 
It  was  therefore  resolved  that  General  Paez,  with 
considerable  risk  and  difficulty,  should  peTietrate 
through  a  foot-path  but  little  known,  and  turn  tlie 
enemy's  right.  Tliis  path  was  extremely  hazardous. 
It  begins  at  the  high  road  leading  to  San  Carlos,  to 
the  west  of  the  valley  ;  goes  over  the  top  of  a  small 
liill  covered  with  woods,  which  was  commanded  by 
the  Spanish  artillery,  and  leads  into  a  ravine  where 
the  men  were  compelled  to  pass  singly,  because  it 
was  very  rough  and  full  of  brambles  and  briars. 
When   the  enemv  discovered   the   movement  of  the 


3(J0  rUAVKI-S  AND   ADVENTURES. 

advancing  forces  under  Pacz,  he  directed  part  of  his 
own  against  tlie  latter,  and  some  of  his  battalions 
caniu  up  to  the  ravine,  as  the  j>atriot  battalion  of 
Apure  was  bepnning  to  ]>aiiis  it,  and  a  vijrorous  firing 
eoinniL'iK-ed  and  was  continued  on  both  nides,  llie  re- 
]»ublioan  coqts  at  last  suceeedinl  in  passing  the  ravine, 
but  no  longer  able  to  sustain  singly  the  enemy's 
charge,  was  already  giving  way,  when  the  liritibh 
Legion  came  up  to  their  sujiport.  Tlie  enemy  had  by 
this  time  brought  into  action  four  of  his  best  bat- 
talions, against  c»nly  one  t»f  the  ]>atriots.  But  the 
gallant  Britons  now  tikd  oil*  and  formed  in  order  of 
battle,  under  a  murderous  fire,  with  almost  super- 
human coolness,  and  kneeling  dtiwn,  they  could  not 
be  nnule  to  yield  an  inch  of  ground.  Almost  all  its 
oflicers  were  either  killed  or  wounded  ;  but  the  service 
rendered  by  those  brave  foreigners  was  great  indeed. 
Their  heroic  firmness  gave  time  for  the  battalion  of 
Ajture  to  rally  and  return  to  the  charge,  while  two 
companies  of  Ttradvns,  led  on  l>y  the  gallant  llcras, 
came  als<)  into  the  action.  The  enemy  at  last  yielded 
under  the  simultaneous  charge  of  the  bayonet  made 
by  these  difierent  corps  and  fell  back  upon  the  caval- 
ry for  su]>port.  I»y  this  time  the  body-guard  of  Gen- 
eral Paez,  six  hundred  strong,  had  passed  the  ravine, 
and  charging  the  enemy's  horse  on  the  rear  of  its 
columns,  routed  them  com]»letely  and  decided  tho 
action  o\\  that  memorable  day.  Only  one  battalion, 
the  famous  Valencey,  successfully  re]>elled  the  furious 
cliarges  of  the  jiatriot  cavalry,  which  ])ursued  the 
royalists  as  far  as  Valencia.  General  T,a  Torre,  with 
thi'  remnant  of  his  forces,  shut  himself  uj>  in  the  forti- 


OUR   LKADER.  3(51 

ications  of  Puerto  Cabcllo,  which  were  finally  carried 
jy  assault  on  the  Tth  of  November  in  the  same  year 
jy  General  Paez. 

The  victory  gained  at  Carabobo  was  complete  and 
jrilliant,  decisive  of  tlie  fate  of  the  republic,  and 
jlorious  to  the  brave  soldiers  of  Apure,  whose  favored 
eader  was  raised  by  Bolivar  to  the  rank  of  General-in- 
;hief  on  the  field  of  battle — an  appointment  which 
vas  subsequently  ratified  by  Congress  ''  in  acknowl- 
idgment  of  his  extraordinary  valor  and  military  vir- 
;ucs."  How  he  afterwards  became  Supreme  Chief  of 
^'enezuela  ;  twice  President  of  the  Kcpublic  :  was 
janished  by  a  turbulent  party  calling  themselves 
Liherahs,  narrowly  escaping  with  his  life  to  the 
LIuited  States  of  America,  from  whence,  after  an  exile 
)f  ten  years,  he  was  recalled,  and  placed  again  at  the 
lead  of  the  nation  by  popular  acclamation  ;  became 
;horoughly  disgusted  with  the  unruly  disposition  of  his 
countrymen,  and  returned  to  end  his  days  in 

'"Tlio  land  of  the  free  and  the  home  of  the  Lrave  ;  " 

le  has  fully  recounted  in  his  Autobiography,  ••'■  rc- 
;ently  published  in  this  country. 

•  Autobiogrnfin  del  General  Jose  A.  Pacz.     Nucva  York,  18G7. 
]6 


ClIAITKK   XXIV. 

SrilNFiS    AT   TIIK    I'ASS    or    API  IMTO. 

AViii.x   \vc  were  aj^iniMd   that   every  thiiifj  vn- 
ready   at   the  pass,  we   iiiove<l  on  from  San   Pal  '  • 
with  the  hortJcs,  the  eattlc  followinj;  behind  l.y  t"* 
ninrehes,  to  allow  them  j^uflicient  time  to  graze  on  t! 
rieli  herhage  hy  the  way. 

On   our  arrival   at   Ajnirifo,  we  found    the   river 
quite  swollen  with  the  recent  showers  and  nlre:i'' 
extending  from  hank  to  hank.     Tlie  first  business  v 
to  select  among  f>ur  men  and  hor'^es  the  strongest  :r 
most  cajtable  of  enduring  the  fatigue  and  of  guidii  _: 
through  the  boisterous  waves  of  the  Apure  the  various 
lots  into  which  the  cattle  were  divided  for  the  ]>ur- 
pose.     Our  next  step  was  to  assemble  at  the  pjvss  a 
sufficient  number  of  canoes  with  expert  paddlers  to 
act   in  concert  with   tlie  leading  men  ajid  horses,  by 
flanking  the  swimmers  in  the  river.     Two  long  i>ali- 
sades,  running  parallel  down  to  the  bank  of  the  river 
and  narrowing  towanl  the  water,  had  alrwuly  been 
constructed  ;    thnmgh  these  the  animals,  in   lots  of 
two  huiulred    at    a   time,  were  driven   at   full   spee<l. 


SCENES  AT   Till-:   PASS   OF   AI'LIUTO. 


!G3 


with  deafening  shonts  and  earnest  "goading,  while  two 
men,  stripped  naked   and   mounted   on   two  si)irited 
horses  without  saddles,  headed  the  movement,  plung- 
ing headlong  into  the  river  pell-mell  with  the  cattle, 
which  were  thus  encouraged  to  swim  across.     A  lierd 
of  tame  animals  was  stationed  on  the  ojjposite  shore 
to  incorporate  the  swimmers  as  they  came  out  of  the 
water.      Having  done  this,  the  leaders  swam  Lack  to 
procure  another  lot  of  animals,  a  feat  they  jierformed 
for  about  twenty  successive  times  in  the  course  of  the 
day.     Nevertheless,  the  task  was  not  so  easily  accom- 
})lished  as  was  practised  with  the  horses;  for  it  often 
happened  that  the  bulls  became  quite  refractory  and 
pugnaeious,   in   MJiich  case  the   mcji    in  the  canoes 
were  obliged  to  hold  them  by  the  horns,  dragging 
them  along  by  main  force  as  they  paddled  on ;    at 
other  times  the  beasts  got  alongside  of  the  leading 
men  and  horses,  and  then  the  danger  to  both  was  im- 
minent, the  bulls  attacking  them  in  the  water ;  thus 
many  valuable  horses  were  killed  by  these  infuriated 
animals,  while  the  men  had  several  narrow  escaj)es. 
What  with  savage  bulls,  electric  eels,  crocodiles  and 
caril)es — not  to  mention  other  pernicious  creatures  of 
the  waters  and  the  broad  expanse  of  the  river  before 
them — the  task  of  these  bold  adventurers  is  truly  ap- 
palling ;  yet  they  go  to  work  and  accomplish  their 
task  with  a  willing  heart  and  a  perfect  nonchalance 
of  every  thing  around  them.     Tlie  same  might  be 
5aid  also  in  regard  to  the  noble  steeds  which  share 
with  them  the  dangers  of  the  river,  acting  at   the 
same  time  the  part  of  floating  bridges  to  the  men, 
:ind  as  decoys  to  the  cattle  during  the  passage.    Their 


304  TRAVELS  AM)   ADVENTURES. 

powers  of  fmlurancf,  in  this  instanco,  are  the  more 
Biirprisiiig,  iiuisimuh  as  tliey  are  not  aMowed  even  a 
few  moments'  rest  after  tliev  land,  hriiii;  kej»t  in 
eonstant  motion  tlie  wliole  day. 

A  nunduT  (»f  horsemen  witli  hizos  were  also  sta- 
tione«l  along  the  hhore  to  seeure  those  bidls  whieli, 
eluding  the  vigilanee  of  the  men  in  the  eanocs,  Bue- 
ceeded  in  regaining  the  land  ;  many  were  drowned, 
however,  in  the  attempt,  and  their  eareasses  aban- 
doned to  the  turkey-buzzards,  from  an  inherent  tlis- 
gust  among  the  ])eople  of  the  Llanos  for  the  flesh  of 
animals  whieh  have  not  been  killed  in  the  usual  way. 
On  one  or  two  oceasions,  the  whole  troop  rebelled 
against  tlu'ir  drivers  an<l  sueeeedeil  in  making  their 
cseapc  to  their  pasture  lields,  in  spite  of  'lie  horsemen 
on  shore ;  others,  after  reaehing  the  sloping  banks 
across  the  river  below  the  ]>ass,  were  arrested  in  their 
flight  by  the  overhanging  elifls,  and  finally  hurled  to 
ft  watery  grave  by  the  rapid  rise  of  the  river. 

Thus  the  cost  of  these  exi>editions,  although  t\ 
ceedingly  interesting  to  those  partitii>ating  in  the  e\- 
citenient,  is  sometimes  greater  than  the  jtrofits  arising 
therefrom,  and  none  but  Llaneros,  who  arc  accus- 
tomed to  live  on  beef  and  water,  otjght  to  indulge  in 
this  truly  savage  business.  Our  loss  in  horses  alone, 
without  reckoning  the  expenses  of  the  expedition  and 
the  danger  to  flesh  and  bone,  amounted  on  this  cK-ea- 
sion  to  about  thirty  animals,  whieh  in  round  figures, 
setting  the  value  of  every  Ijorse  at  the  minimum  ]>riee 
of  one  hundred  dollars,  woidd  nndvc  the  sum  of  three 
thousand  dollars  ;  while  the  value  of  the  <-attle  ifi^df, 
manv  of  which  were  ulto  lost  to  us,  could  liardlv  be 


SCENES  AT  THE  PASS  OF  ArUIilTO. 


305 


set  down  at  five  dollars  a  head  at  that  epoch.  One 
of  the  horses  was  so  vahiahle,  that  oiir  Leader  re- 
quested the  Doctor  to  attend  the  wounded  animal  and 
endeavor  to  save  his  life  if  possible.  On  examination, 
it  was  found  that  his  bowels  were  partly  forced  out 
through  the  wound  ;  but  as  he  would  not  allow  any 
body  to  touch  him,  it  M'as  resolved  to  tie  his  feet; 
then  passing  a  polo  through  the  legs  of  the  animal,  he 
was  lifted  from  the  ground  in  a  reverse  position,  to 
allow  the  Doctor  to  operate  more  conveniently.  It 
was  already  very  dark,  and  the  group  of  Llaneros 
lifting  the  patient,  with  others  liolding  np  lighted 
torches  made  of  rags  and  tallow,  and  the  humorous 
Esculapius  leaning  over  the  struggling  beast,  pre- 
sented a  scene  ludicrous  in  the  extreme.  In  spite  of 
the  skill  with  which  he  performed  the  operation,  and 
the  humane  care  of  the  owner,  the  horse  expired  the 
same  niirht. 


364  TKAVKI^  AM)   ADVENTURES. 

jx)\vcr8  of  i-iuluninco,  in  this  instance,  arc  the  more 
surprising,  inasmuch  as  tht-y  arc  not  aUowed  even  a 
few  moments'  rest  after  tliey  lantl,  being  kept  in 
constant  motion  the  wliole  day. 

A  number  of  hoi-semen  with  hizos  were  also  sta- 
tioned along  the  shore  to  secure  those  bulls  which, 
eluding  the  vigilance  of  the  men  in  the  canoes,  sue- 
ceetled  in  regaining  the  land  ;  many  were  drowned, 
however,  in  the  attempt,  and  their  carcasses  aban- 
di)ncd  to  the  turkcy-buz/.ards,  from  an  inherent  dis- 
gust among  the  ])cople  of  the  Lhinos  for  the  flesh  of 
animals  which  have  not  been  killed  in  the  usual  way. 
On  one  or  two  occasions,  the  wlu»le  trt>»>p  rebelled 
against  their  drivers  and  succeeded  in  making  their 
escape  to  their  pasture  fields,  in  spite  of  the  horsemen 
on  shore ;  others,  after  reaching  the  sloping  l)anks 
across  the  river  l)el()W  the  ]>ass,  were  arresteil  in  their 
flight  by  the  overhanging  clifls,  and  linally  hurled  to 
a  watery  grave  by  the  raj»id  rise  of  the  river. 

Thus  the  cost  of  these  expeditions,  although  »  \ 
eeedingly  interesting  to  those  ]>artieipating  in  the  ex- 
citement, is  sometimes  greater  than  the  ]>ro(it8  arising 
therefrom,  and  none  but  Llaneros,  who  arc  accus- 
toined  to  live  on  beef  and  water,  ought  to  indulge  in 
this  truly  savage  business^.  Our  loss  in  horses  alone, 
without  reckoning  the  expenses  of  the  expedition  and 
the  danger  to  flesh  and  bone,  amounted  on  this  occa- 
sion to  about  thirty  animals,  which  in  round  figures, 
setting  the  value  of  every  horse  at  the  minimum  price 
of  one  hundred  dollars,  would  make  the  sum  of  tliree 
thousand  dollars  ;  while  the  valui*  of  the  cattle  ilcelt', 
many  of  which  were  ultu  lo?t  to  us,  co\dd  hardly  be 


SCENIuS  AT   THE  PASS  OF  Al'UKlTO. 


3(3.' 


jot  down  at  iivo  dollars  a  head  at  that  opocli.  One 
)f  the  horses  was  so  valuahle,  that  our  Leader  re- 
quested the  Doctor  to  attend  the  wounded  animal  and 
?ndeavor  to  save  his  life  it'  possible.  On  examination, 
t  was  found  that  his  bowels  were  partly  forced  out 
:hrough  the  wound  ;  but  as  he  would  not  allow  any 
jody  to  touch  him,  it  was  resolved  to  tic  his  feet ; 
:hen  passing  a  polo  through  the  legs  of  the  animal,  he 
rt-as  lifted  from  the  ground  in  a  reverse  position,  to 
dlow  the  Doctor  to  operate  more  conveniently.  It 
ivas  already  very  dark,  and  the  group  of  Llaneros 
ifting  the  patient,  with  others  holding  up  lighted 
orclies  made  of  rags  and  tallow,  and  the  humorous 
Esculapius  leaning  over  the  struggling  beast,  pre- 
sented a  scene  ludicrous  in  the  extreme.  In  spite  of 
;he  skill  with  which  he  performed  the  operation,  and 
:he  humane  care  of  the  owner,  the  horse  ex[)ired  the 
jame  nii^ht. 


'!^3^^Srt^J^^ 


Jl. 


3C6  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES. 

Tlirt'c  wliolo  (lays  were  ppcnt  in  the  laborious  oc- 
CMii>:ition  of  forc-iiij;  the  caltK'  ai-idhs  the  river.  N<»r 
were  the  iiiy;hts  h-.-»  diligently  einployetl  at  the  vilhiiTf 
in  the  more  cntertainin<;  reereation  of  danein«:,  llirt- 
in*^  and  ganihlinj;,  aeeordinj;  to  the  taijtes  and  inelina- 
tions  of  our  motley  assembly.  It  must  be  eonfessed, 
however,  that  the  latter  had  more  ineentivcs  for  the 
people  of  that  pastoral  rcijion  than  the  shepherd's 
reed  and  erook.  Oecasionally  a  ii;;ht  would  ooeur 
during  these  nocturnjU  revelries ;  but  this,  bey<»nd 
some  hard  words  and  brandishing  of  swords  and  dag- 
gers by  moonlight,  which  rather  added  to  the  iiietur- 
es<pieness  of  the  scene,  never  ended  in  any  thing  very 
Bcrious. 

"Cttlo  cl  chajK'O,  rcqiiirio  In  Cbpada, 
Miro  al  soslajo,  fucsc  y  no  buW  uada.'' 

The  river  was  now  rising  so  rapidly,  that  in  order 
to  reach  our  camp  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  village, 
we  were  obliged  to  place  canoes  across  the  main 
street  leading  to  it,  for  fear  of  coming  in  contact  with 
any  of  the  numerous  tenants  of  that  stream.  About 
this  time  the  fish,  conscious  of  the  ajtproaching  inun- 
dation of  the  savannas,  commence  to  ascend  the  river 
in  search  of  those  places  best  suited  for  spawning ; 
and  so  great  is  the  number  of  those  that  seek  a  nuj)- 
tial  rendezvous,  that  the  noise  they  make  in  the 
water  can  be  heard  at  some  distance  from  the  river. 
During  their  migration  the  water  becomes  so  tainted 
with  their  flavor,  that  it  is  unfit  to  drink  or  wash  in. 
])esirous  of  obtaining  some  live  specimens  for  sketch- 
ing, I  ]irocured  a  tanunja^  or  throw  net,  which  I  re- 
quested one  of  our  men  to  laimch  near  the  bank  ;  he 


SCENES  AT   THE  PASS  OF  APUUITO.  3G7 

did  so  ;  but  when  he  tritxl  to  lift  it,  he  found  it  im- 
poi^sible  una>sistL'd,  -which  made  us  tear  that  the  net 
had  got  entangk'd  among-  snags  at  the  bottom  of  the 
river.  A  companion  was  called  to  our  assistance,  and 
between  us  three,  we  soon  brought  it  up,  when,  to  my 
astonishment  and  delight,  I  found  the  net  full  of  cop- 
oros,  palotnctas,  and  other  delicacies  ;  the  caribes, 
however,  soon  rendered  it  perfectly  useless,  which 
circumstance  I  considered  a  misfortune,  as  I  could 
not  keep  the  fish  long  without  spoiling,  Kcxt  day  I 
was  advised  by  one  of  the  villagers  to  place  three  or 
four  canoes,  partly  tilled  with  water,  across  the  stream  ; 
the  tish,  finding  their  progress  arrested  by  the  obstruc- 
tion, endeavored  to  jump  over;  in  doing  which  they 
fell  in  the  canoes  by  hundreds.  The  contrivance  suc- 
ceeded so  well,  that  every  morning  I  could  depend 
on  a  plentiful  supply,  both  for  my  sketch-book  and 
the  frying-pan.  My  attention  was  particularly  at- 
tracted this  time  by  a  large  fish  called  the  valcnion, 
from  its  great  strength  which,  as  I  was  informed, 
enables  him  to  drag  a  canoe  after  him  when  caught 
with  the  hook  and  line.  A  distressing  occurrence 
took  place  there  which  nearly  cost  the  life  of  a  young 
man  while  engaged  in  fishing  for  the  valenton.  The 
angler  and  a  friend  were  engaged  in  conversation, 
M'ith  their  lines  thrown  carelessly  over  the  sides  of 
the  canoe,  when  the  tish  seized  the  bait  and  ran  off, 
as  he  is  in  the  habit  of  doing.  Tlie  jerk  was  so  vio- 
lent, that  the  young  man  was  unable  to  hold  the  line, 
and  allowed  it  to  slip  through  his  hands ;  he  was  not 
aware  that  at  the  end  of  the  line  there  was  another 
liook,  which  l»uried  itself  in  the  thumb  of  his  right 


370 


THAVKLS   AND   ADVENTURK& 


espeoiuUy  about  little  thin^^ ;  therefore  be  felt  quite 
u?H';it;y  at  the  uncercinonions  intrusion  from  the  finny 
inhjihitants  of  his  swampy  reahns,  whose  movements 
he  mistook  for  a  mischievous  propensity  on  their  part 
to  attack  the  wayfarer.  On  the  other  lumd,  our 
Leader,  who  was  always  ready  to  practise  a  ^ood  joke, 
stized  tiie  opjtortunity  to  (»cca.«»ionally  tij»  the  canoe  so 
as  to  make  it  ship  water,  and  more  lish  alonj;  witli  it. 
'\Vhereuj)on  liis  eom])aniun,  who  was  not  aware  of  the 
trick  practised  upon  him,  imagining  that  the  fish  were 
becoming  bolder  as  they  advanced,  exclaimed  in  utter 

dcsjtair,  "D n  it  I  i'vinjiauiro^  let  us  pull  back, for 

even  the  fish  are  savage  in  this  <ountry.*' 

AVhen  the  watei-s  sub>ide,  thousands,  nay,  millions 
remain  struggling  in  the  ponds  and  little  j»ools,  left  on 
the  savannas,  where  they  soon  ]>crish  and  rot  away, 
tainting  the  air  with  their  eflluvium.  Some  of  them, 
like  the  curifo,  a  sj>ccies  of  Silurus,  covered  with  trans- 
verse plates  surrounding  the  body,  have  the  power  of 
living  buried  in  the  indurated  mud,  from  whence  they 
are  called  to  life  again  by  the  returning  showers. 
As  they  form  a  most  delicious  mess,  the}'  arc  eagerly 
sought  by  men  and  women,  wlio  resort  to  these  places 
armed  with  wicker  baskets,  and  collect  great  numbcre 
of  the  fish  before  they  are  carried  away  by  the  in- 
creasing inundation  of  the  savannas. 

A  very  singular  belief,  shared  likewise,  according 
to  Sir  Kiiurson  Tenncnt,  by  the  people  of  Ceylon, 
exists  in  the  Apure  respecting  fish  falling  from  the 
cl(»uds.  Alhnling  to  this  jdienomcnon,  that  ingenious 
writer  observes  :  "  P.oth  at  Galle  and  Colombo  in  the 
southwest   monsoon,  fish   are  popularly  believed  to 


SCENES  AT  THE   PASS  OF  APURITO.  37I 

hdve  fiilleu  iVniii  the  clouds  Juiinj;  violent  showoie ; 
but  those  found  on  the  occasions  that  give  rise  to  this 
belief,  consist  of  smallest  fry,  such  as  could  be  caught 
up  by  water-spouts  and  vortices  analogous  to  them, 
or  otherwise  blown  on  shore  from  the  surf ;  whereas 
those  which  suddenly  appear  in  the  replenished  tanks 
and  in  the  hollows  which  they  overflow,  are  mature 
and  well-grown  fish.  Besides,  the  latter  are  found 
under  the  circumstances  I  have  described,  in  all  parts 
of  the  interior,  whilst  the  prodigy  of  a  supposed  fall 
of  fish  from  the  sky  has  been  noticed,  I  apprehend, 
only  in  the  vicinity  of  the  sea  or  of  some  inland 
water." 

Although  the  author  further  explains  the  phenom- 
enon on  the  supposition  that  some  fish  are  endowed 
with  the  power  of  locomotion  over  land,  while  others 
in  a  tori)id  state  remain  buried  in  the  mud  until  the 
return  of  the  rainy  season ;  yet,  I  have  been  assured 
by  reliable  persons  that  live  fish  have  been  picked  up 
in  places  where  no  such  possible  contingencies  could 
occur  ;  for  instance,  upon  the  roofs  of  houses  or  amidst 
wide  plains  far  from  running  water.  Most  of  those 
thus  found,  are  small,  from  three  to  seven  inches 
long  ;  but  none  of  them  capable  of  living  more  than 
twenty  minutes  out  of  water  ;  and  the  father  of  the 
writer  once  even  witnessed  a  fall  of  hocachicos,  a  fish 
which  seldom  lives  over  five  minutes  out  of  its  own 
element. 

In  support  of  these  views,  which  were  embodied 
in  my  Wild  Scenes  in  South  America^  I  now  have 
the  pleasure  of  adding  the  testimony  of  no  less  an 


372  TRAVilLS  AND  ADVEXTURES. 

authority  than  Gosse,  who  has  collected  a  number 
of  authentic  examples  of  this  phenomenon  in  his 
Romancf  of  Xdtural  History.  Acconling  to  his 
statement!!!,  tish-showers  have  occunvtl  in  all  parts 
v(  the  worKl,  not  even  exceptini;  his  own  country — 
Eufjland. — where,  early  iu  l^Jl»,  the  newspa|>ers  of 
South  Wales  recortled  a  thower  of  tish  in  the  Valley 
of  Abenlare.  The  repeated  statements  attracte«l 
more  notice  than  usual,  and  the  Kev.  John  Griffith, 
the  vicar  of  the  parish,  communicateil  the  results  oi' 
his  inquiries  to  the  Kvening  Mail. 

''  If  now  we  l«x>k  to  other  lands,"  continues  the 
author,  **  we  shall  find  that  the  descent  of  fishes  from 
the  atmosphere,  under  conditions  little  under>tood, 
is  a  ]>henomenon  which  rests  on  indubitable  evidence. 
HumKddt  has  published  interesting  details  of  the 
ejection  of  fish  in  large  quantities  from  volcanoes  in 
South  America.  On  the  night  Wtween  the  19th  and 
20th  of  June,  1698,  the  summit  of  Carguairazo,  a 
volcano  nvre  than  19,000  feet  in  height,  lell  in.  and 
the  surrounding  count r}-  for  nearly  thirty-two  square 
miles  was  covered  with  muJ  and  fishes.  A  similar  erup- 
tion of  fish  from  the  volcano  of  Imbabura  was  supposed 
to  have  been  the  cause  of  a  putrid  fever  which  raged 
in  the  town  of  Ibarra  seven  years  before  that  period.* 

This  is  accounted  for  on  the  supposition  that  sub- 
terranev>us  lakes,  communicating  with  surface-waters, 
form  in  cavities  in  the  declivities,  or  at  the  base  of  a 
volcano.  In  the  course  of  time  these  internal  cavities 
are  burst  open  by  the  force  of  the  volcanic  explosions, 
and  their  contents  discharged  through  the  water. 


SCENES  AT  THE  PASS  OF  APURITO.       373 

But  the  most  extraordinary  account  recorded  by 
Grossc  is  that  of  Dr.  Buist,  of  Bombay,  who,  after 
enumerating  the  cases  above  cited,  and  others  of 
simihir  character,  goes  on  to  say  :— "In  1824  fishes 
fell  at  Meerut  ou  tlie  men  of  her  Majesty's  14th 
Regiment,  then  out  at  drill,  and  were  caught  in  num- 
bers. In  July,  182G,  live  fish  were  seen  to  full  on  the 
grass  at  Moradabad  during  a  storm.  They  were  the 
common  Cyprinus,  so  prevalent  in  our  Indian  waters. 
On  the  19th  of  February,  18.30,  at  noon,  a  heavy  fall 
of  fish  occurred  at  the  Nokulhatty  factory,  in  the 
Daccali  Zillah  ;  depositions  on  the  subject  were  ob- 
tained from  nine  different  parties.  The  fish  were  all 
dead  ;  most  of  them  were  large  ;  some  were  fresh  ; 
others  were  rotten  and  mutilated.  They  were  seen 
at  first  in  the  sky,  like  a  flock  of  birds,  descending 
rapidly  to  the  ground  ;  there  was  rain  drizzling,  but 
no  storm.  On  the  IGth  and  17th  of  May,  1833,  a 
tall  of  fish  occurred  in  the  Zillah  of  Foottehpoor, 
about  three  miles  north  of  Jumna,  after  a  violent 
storm  of  wind  and  rain.  The  fish  were  from  a  pound 
and  a  half  to  three  pounds  in  weight,  and  the  same 
species  as  those  found  in  the  tanks  in  the  neighbor- 
hood. They  were  all  dead  and  dry.  A  fall  of  fish 
occurred  at  Allahabad  during  a  storm  in  May,  1835  ; 
they  were  of  the  chowla  species,  and  were  found  dead 
and  dry  after  the  storm  had  passed  over  the  district. 
On  the  20th  of  September,  1839,  after  a  smart  shower 
of  rain,  a  quantity  of  fish,  about  three  inches  in 
length,  and  all  of  the  same  kind,  fell  at  the  Sunder- 
bunds,  about    twenty  miles  south  of  Calcutta.     On 


374  TKAVKLS   AND   ADVENTCRB8. 

this  occasion  it  was  remarked  that  the  fish  did  nut 
fall  here  and  there  irregularly  over  the  ground,  but  in 
a  continuous  Btmight  line,  not  more  than  a  span  in 
breadth.  The  vast  multitudes  of  fish  with  which  the 
low  grounds  around  liombay  are  covckhI,  about  a 
week  or  ten  days  after  the  first  burst  of  the  mon- 
soon, ajjpear  to  be  derived  from  the  adjoining  pools 
or  rivulets,  and  not  to  descend  from  the  sky.  They 
are  not,  as  far  as  I  know,  found  in  the  higher  parts 
of  the  island.  I  have  never  seen  them,  though  I 
have  watchetl  carefully,  in  casks  collecting  water  from 
the  roofs  of  buildings,  or  heard  of  them  on  the  decks 
or  awnings  of  vessels  in  the  harbor,  where  they  must 
have  appeared  had  they  descended  from  the  sky. 
One  of  the  most  remarkable  phenomena  of  this  kind 
occurred  during  a  tremendous  dehige  of  rain  at  Katty- 
war,  on  the  25th  of  July,  1850,  where  the  ground  around 
Kajkotc  was  found  literally  covered  with  fish  ;  some 
of  them  were  found  on  the  top  of  hayst;icks,  wliere 
jtrobably  they  had  been  drit'ted  by  the  stonn.  In  the 
course  of  twenty-four  successive  hours  twenty-seven 
iiiclies  of  rain  fell  ;  thirty-five  fell  in  twenty-six  hours, 
seven  inches  in  one  liour  and  a  halt',  being  the  heaviest 
fall  on  record.  At  Poonah,  on  the  3d  of  August, 
1852,  after  a  very  heavy  fall  of  rain,  multitudes  of 
fish  were  caught  on  the  ground  in  the  cantonments, 
full  lialf  a  mile  from  the  nearest  stream.  If  showers 
of  fish  are  to  be  exj>lained  on  the  a.»?sumptiun  that 
they  arc  carried  iip  by  squalls  or  violent  winds  from 
rivers  or  spaces  of  water  not  far  away  from  where  they 
fall,  it  wouM  1)e  nothincr  wonderful  were  thev  seen  to 


SCENES  AT  THE  I'ASS  OF   AFURITO.  375 

descend  ironi  the  air  durin;^  the  furious  squalls  which 
occasionally  occur  in  July." 

Sir  E.  Tenneut,  before  cited,  also  witnessed  in 
Ceylon  another  of  those  fish- showers  : — "I  had  an 
oiiportunity,  on  one  occasion  only,  of  witnessing  the 
phenomenon  which  gives  rise  to  this  popular  belief, 
I  was  driving  in  the  cinnamon  gardens  near  the  fort 
of  Colombo,  and  saw  a  violent  but  partial  shower 
descend  at  no  great  distance  before  me.  On  coming 
to  the  spot,  I  found  a  multitude  of  small  silvery  fish, 
from  one  and  a  half  to  two  inches  in  length,  leaping 
on  the  gravel  of  the  high  road,  numbers  of  which  I 
collected  and  brought  away  in  my  palanquin.  The 
spot  was  about  half  a  mile  from  the  sea,  and  entirely 
unconnected  with  any  water-course  or  pool."  •■' 

The  same  curious  fact  respecting  the  habits  of 
certain  kinds  of  fish  in  the  Llanos,  which  bury  them- 
selves in  the  mud  at  the  close  of  the  rainy  season, 
also  appears  to  take  place  in  India  and  Ceylon;  for, 
according  to  Gosse,  "  the  pools,  reservoirs,  and  tanks 
are  well  provided  with  fish  of  various  species,  though 
the  water  twice  every  year  becomes  perfectly  evapo- 
rated, and  the  mud  of  the  bottom  is  entirely  converted 
into  dust,  or  takes  the  condition  of  baked  clay,  gaping 
with  wide  and  deep  clefts,  in  which  not  the  slightest 
sign  of  moisture  can  be  detected.  This  is  the  case 
with  temporary  hollows  in  the  soil,  which  have  no 
connection  with  running  streams  or  permanent  waters, 

•   Xattiral  Ilisfori/  of  Ceylon. 


376  TBAVKLS  AM)   ADVENTURE8- 

from  which  they  might  be  supposed  to  receive  u  fresh 
stock  of  tiiih." 

After  i)roving  conchisivcly  that  these  fushes  could 
uot  ])rocecd  from  either  the  clouds,  as  the  generality 
of  peo]»le  believe,  nor  from  imjiregnated  ovu,  as 
]SIr.  FarrcU  BU<;j;t'sts,  tlie  author  observes  : — "  Neither 
vi  these  hypotheses,  then,  will  account  for  the  fact; 
and  we  must  admit  that  the  fishes  of  these  regions, 
have  the  instinct  to  burrow  down  in  the  solid  mud  of 
the  bottom,  at  the  approach  of  the  dry  seas<»n,  and 
the  power  of  retaining  life,  doubtless  in  a  tori)id  con- 
dition, until  the  return  of  the  jteritKlic  rains,  as  Theo- 
phrastus  long  ago  observed." 

But,  who  ever  heard  of  showers  of  toads  and  frogs  ? 
Yet,  such  is  the  fact,  astonishetl  reader  ;  and  were 
you  to  visit  with  me  some  of  the  lagoons  and  ponds 
of  South  America  at  night,  you  would  not  fail  to 
notice  that  the  air,  as  well  as  the  earth  and  waters, 
seems  filled  with  the  jiiercing,  deafening  noise  pro- 
ceeding from  them.  "  According  to  travellers  in 
tropical  America,  the  inhabitants  of  Porto  Bello  assert 
that  every  droj)  of  rain  is  changed  into  a  toml  ;  the 
most  instructed,  however,  believe  that  the  spawn 
of  these  animals  is  raised  with  the  vapor  from  the 
adjoining  swamps,  and,  being  driven  in  the  clouds 
over  the  city,  the  ova  are  hatched  as  they  descend  in 
rain.  'Tis  certain  that  the  streets  after  a  night  of 
heavy  min  are  almost  covered  with  the  ill-favored 
reptiles  ;  and  it  is  imposible  to  walk  without  crush- 
ing them.  But  heretic  philosophers  point  to  the 
mature  growth  of  the  vermin,  many  of  them  being 


SCENES  AT   THE   PASS  OF  AITRITO.  377 

six  inches  in  length,  and  maintain  that  the  hypo- 
thesis just  mentioned  will  scarcely  account  for  the 
appearance  of  these."  ^ 

But  it  is  not  South  America  alone  that  can  boast 
rf  such  an  extraordinary  phenomenon  ;  for  the  same 
[iccomplished  author  records  similar  showers  as  occur- 
ring in  England  and  various  parts  of  the  Continent : 
''  In  two  or  three  of  these  cases,  the  toads  were  not 
only  observed  in  countless  numbers  on  the  ground 
[luring  and  after  heavy  storms  of  rain,  but  were  seen 
to  strike  upon  the  roofs  of  houses,  bounding  thence 
into  the  streets  ;  they  even  fell  upon  the  hats,  and? 
in  one  instance,  were  actually  received  into  the  out- 
stretched hand." 

It  would  seem  that  not  even  quadrupeds  are 
jxempt  there,  from  the  same  rule,  for  we  often  hear 
;he  phrase  in  English,  "  If  it  should  rain  cats  and 
logs,"  which  I,  for  want  of  a  better  acquaintance  with 
English  jihrascology,  am  at  a  loss  how  to  interpret. 
We  all  know  that  stone-showers  are  not  uncommon, 
jspecially  ever  since  ''  the  thundcrcr,"  Jupiter,  alias 
Fove,  lost  his  power  among  us  through  the  advancing 
;tridL's  of  civilization.  Previous  to  this,  we  are  told 
)f  his  paying  occasional  visits  to  his  lady-loves  on 
jarth  in  the  shape  of  golden  showers,  which  have  been 
exchanged  subsequently  for  a  less  costly  material; 
jut  showers  of  "  cats    and    dogs "  I  do  not  believe 


•  Gossc,  Roinance  of  Xafnral  HUiijiy. 


CIIArTKlt  XXV. 

Tin:    WONDKUS    OF    THE    ICIVF.R. 

MAUVKLLors  ns  the  Apurc  river  Is  in  point  of 
living  creatures,  it  is  nothing  in  comparistin  with  the 
Orinoco,  into  which  it  flows,  and  tlie  Amazon  river, 
that  connects  with  the  Orinoco  through  the  Cosi- 
quiarc  and  Rio  Negro.  The  recent  explorations 
of  Professor  Agassiz  in  the  Amazon,  and  the  former 
researches  of  Wallace  on  the  latter  river,  prove, 
I  ho])e  conclusively,  that  my  statements  concern- 
ing the  fishes  of  these  regions  arc  far  below  the 
mark  in  point  of  numbers,  and  that  there  is  tio  end 
to  the  varieties.  Wallace,  who  spent  nearly  f>ur 
years  on  the  Rio  Negro  collecting  olyects  of  natural 
history  for  the  British  Museum,  and  whose  ]>rincipal 
fare  consisted  of  the  fish  caught  by  his  men,  tells  us, 
"  I  began  now  to  take  n  great  interest  in  the  beauty 
and  variety  t)f  the  specie.s,  and,  whenever  I  could,  I 
made  accurate  drawings  and  descriptions  of  them. 
Many  are  of  a  most  excellent  flavor,  surpassing  any 
thing  I  have  tasted  in  England,  cither  from  the  fresh 


THE   WONDERS  OF  TUE  RIVEK.  379 

or  tlie  salt  waters  ;  and  many  species  have  real  fat, 
which  renders  the  water  they  are  boiled  in  a  rich  and 
agreeable  broth.  Not  a  drop  ol'  this  is  wasted,  but, 
with  a  little  pepper  and  farinha,  is  all  consumed, 
with  as  much  relish  as  if  it  were  the  most  delicate 
soup."  * 

And  Agassiz,  in  his  interesting  lectures  on  the  same 
subject,  says  :  "  Now,  what  are  the  fishes  which  in- 
habit the  Amazon  ?  for  I  wanted  to  say  all  this  sim- 
ply as  a  preparation  to  give  you  some  definite  idea  of 
the  various  types  of  fish  which  we  find  in  that 
mighty  basin.  Not  one  of  those  fishes  with  which  we 
are  familiar  in  our  rivers  is  to  be  found  there  ;  not  one 
of  those  which  are  known  in  the  rivers  of  Europe  is  to 
be  found  there ;  uot  one  from  any  other  fresh  water 
basin  is  to  be  found  there.  The  Amazon  has  fishes  of 
its  own,  utterly  diftbrent  from  those  of  any  other  basin, 
and  these  fishes  are  difierent  from  those  in  all  other 
fresh  water  rivers  of  Brazil,  and  in  each  part  of  the 
Amazon  there  are  fish  of  a  peculiar  character,  so 
that  those  which  inhabit  the  lower  course  of  the  Ama- 
zon ditler  from  those  found  in  the  upper.  So  great  is 
the  variety,  that  in  small  lakes  of  water,  at  parts  of 
the  Amazon,  we  find  an  endless  variety.  I  examined 
a  little  lake,  just  at  the  junction  of  the  Rio  Negro 
with  tl:e  Amazon.  The  lake  was  only  a  few  hundred 
yards  in  extent,  and  in  that  pool,  for  it  was  hardly 
anything  more,  I  found  in  the  course  of  two  months 
over  two  hundred  difierent  kinds  of  fish,  and  three 

•  Travtli  ou  the  liio  Negro. 


380  TKAVLLS  AND  ADVENTUKES. 

timeo  larjyer  than  can  be  found  in  the  Mississippi  or 
in  the  Senof^il  or  Ganj^os  or  Nile.  The  number  of 
fish  found  in  tlie  whole  basin  of  the  Amazon  is  not 
loss  than  two  thousand  ditfcrent  kinds,  that  is,  ten 
times  as  many  as  were  kn<»wn  about  a  century  ago  to 
exist  in  tlje  wiiule  world.  And  stmnge  to  say,  it  would 
seem  that,  in  proportion  as  we  become  acquainted 
with  a  larger  number  of  these  animals  they  should  be 
found  to  resemlde  one  another  more  and  more.  On 
the  contrary,  however,  such  are  the  peculiarities  of 
their  features,  such  is  the  infinite  number  of  circum- 
stances which  brings  abi>\it  diflV'rences  among  them, 
that  in  pr.)portion  as  I  find  a  larger  and  larger  n<im- 
ber,  I  find  the  difierencc  between  them  seems  to  grow, 
and  though  it  appears  paradoxical,  it  is  strictly  true." 

And  returning  now  to  the  Orinoco,  the  good  mis- 
sionar)'  and  historiographer  of  that  noble  river,  Father 
(inmilla,  tells  us  that  "So  great  is  the  multitude  of 
fishes  and  turtles,  that  the  slime,  excrements  and 
continual  bh^od  shed  by  those  which  devour  or  wound 
each  other,  is  the  principal  cause  of  the  heaviness  and 
bad  taste  of  the  water  of  the  Orinoco,  which  is  also 
the  ca.sc  in  some  of  the  rivers  of  Hungary,  and  can 
be  more  readily  perceived  in  basins  or  reservoirs  de- 
voted to  the  preservation  oi  live  fish,  where  the  water 
Boon  becomes  tainted  and  unpalatable,  although  it 
may  go  in  and  out  freely. 

"  Wliat  astonishes  still  m<irc  is  the  novilty  of  the 
species  and  curious  .shapes  of  these  fishes,  so  diA'crent 
from  those  uf  our  Europe,  for  not  even  the  sardinaa 
liave  the  ll.ivor  nor  the  shape  of  these.     All  that  wc 


THE   WONDKRS   OF  TIIK   UIVKIJ.  381 

can  say,  after  a  careful  exaininatioa  of  tlieso  fishes,  is, 
this  one  resembles  somewhat  the  trout,  that  one  the 
sole,  etc.  ;  hut  no  one  can  say  with  certainty  this  is 
like  any  in  Europe.  But  what  of  it,  when  it  is  a  fact 
that  the  fish  found  in  the  waters  of  the  tierra  ca- 
Uente  are  totally  difi'erent  from  those  of  the  tierra 
fria  ?  " 

Of  the  modes  of  fishing  practised  by  the  Indians 
of  his  Mission,  he  also  tells  us  many  curious  devices. 
"  Observe,"  he  says,  "  those  four  canoes,  manned  by 
the  boys  of  the  Doctrina,  and  darting  side  by  side 
along  the  river ;  well,  this  is  the  most  novel  and  the 
most  curious  mode  of  fishing  ever  devised,  as  the  fishes 
here  called  Bocachicos,  Palometas,  Lizas,  Sardinas, 
and  many  other  kinds  of  smaller  fry,  jump  of  their 
own  accord  into  the  canoes  in  such  quantities  that, 
were  not  the  paddlers  expert  enough  and  their  craft 
propelled  with  such  rapidity,  these  would  soon  fill  up 
and  sink  with  the  weight  of  the  fish  that  fall  in  them  ; 
for  each  kind  has  its  proper  season  for  spawning,  and 
with  the  object  of  saving  some  of  their  ova  to  multi- 
ply their  species,  they  have  been  taught  by  the  Su- 
preme Author  of  Nature  to  quit  their  haunts  and 
seek  some  convenient  eddy,  where,  placing  their  tails 
against  the  current,  they  receive  in  their  gills  the  little 
eggs  which  may  chance  to  fall  in  them  ;  and  these  are 
the  only  ones  saved,  the  rest  being  devoured  by  other 
fishes,  whose  numbers  at  and  near  these  currents  is 
immense,  one  shoal  crowding  on  the  top  of  another." 

In  the  rivers  and  streams  of  minor  importance, 
where  fish  are  not  so  abundant;,  the  natives,  by  way 


382  TKAVKLS   AND   ADVENTLKES. 

of  pnstinic,  and  also  to  vary  tlieir  fare,  avail  them- 
selves of  the  rxvjts  of  two  plants — the  cu;i/i  and  the 
barbasco,^  both  of  whicli  possess  the  Biu<^ulur  pecu- 
liarity of  intoxicating  fish,  even  when  the  smallest 
(jtiivntity  of  the  juice  of  the  roots  ia  thrown  in  the 
stream,  producing  such  commotion  among  the  finny 
inhabitjints,  that  they  fall  an  easy  jirey  to  the  Indians, 
who  take  a  special  delight  in  this  wholesale  slaughter. 
The  cuna  is  a  small  plant,  somewhat  like  ch>ver,  pn»- 
dueing  a  bulbous  root  like  a  small  turnip,  but  with 
very  diflerent  smell  and  taste,  and  the  barbasco,  a 
vine,  very  common  in  all  parts  of  the  country,  and 
although  both  are  exceedingly  deleterious  to  fish,  they 
are  not  so  to  other  creatures.  The  prtx-ess  is  very 
simple:  A  quantity  of  the  nxits  or  vines  is  lilightiy 
jK)unded  with  a  wooden  mallet  and  thrown  in  the 
water,  and  no  sooner  do  the  fish  perceive  the  smell  of 
it,  than  they  rush  frantically  uj)  and  down  the  stream 
to  avoid  its  contact;  those  which  take  the  former  coursf 
find  their  progress  arrested  by  a  file  of  Indians,  who. 
armed  with  poles,  beat  alxnit  the  water  to  turn  them 
back,  which  they  quickly  do,  but  only  to  find  their 
retreat  cut  olV  in  that  direction  too,  for  their  cunniiiL' 
assailants  have  already  taken  the  precaution  to  bar 
the  stream  with  a  double  row  of  stakes,  the  lower  one 
higher  than  the  upper.  Not  discouraged  in  the  least, 
the  larger  and  stronger  fi.sh  make  another  rush  up  the 
stream  ;  but  no  sooner  do  they  come  in  contact  with 
the  noxious  herb  than  they  retreat  again  towards  the 

•  "  I'iflcidca  crilhrjna  and  Jac<(uiDia  armillam." — JiumboldL 


Tin:   WONDERS  OF  THE   lilVEK.  333 

barricaile,  and  here,  redoubling  their  energies,  leap 
over  the  tirst  row  of  stakes,  and  thus  find  themselves 
cntrajiped  within  the  narrow  limits  of  the  stockade. 
In  the  meantime  the  smaller  fish,  having  neither  the 
strength  nor  the  courage  to  save  themselves,  become 
thoroughly  intoxicated  with  the  juices  already  dis- 
seminated in  the  water,  and  fall  an  easy  prey  to  the 
joyous  urchins,  who  pounce  ujjou  them,  and  transfer 
tliem  to  the  baskets  they  carry  for  the  purpose.  This 
is  a  very  amusing  mode  of  fishing,  and  during  the  ex- 
citement produces  much  merriment  among  the  In- 
dians ;  now  a  fish  slaps  a  redskin  on  the  face  with  its 
tail  ;  another  one  strikes  against  the  bare  ribs  of  some 
one  else,  which  never  fails  to  draw  peals  of  laughter 
from  their  companions,  who,  in  turn,  become  lliem- 
sclvcs  the  laughing-stock  of  the  others  from  siuiihir 
mishaps. 

But  the  most  amusing  contrivance  practised  by 
these  people  with  the  cuna  is  the  following  :  An  In- 
dian takes  a  quantity  of  boiled  maize  and  grinds  it  to 
paste  ;  one  half  of  it  is  thoroughly  incorporated  with 
the  cima,  while  the  other  half  he  reserves  as  a  decoy 
to  attract  the  fish  to  a  particular  spot  :  he  then  calls 
his  children,  who,  armed  with  baskets,  follow  their 
father  to  the  stream;  here  the  fisherman  commences 
to  throw  small  pellets  of  the  unprepared  paste  in  the 
water,  which  never  fails  to  attract  great  numbers  of 
sardines,  palometas,  and  other  delicacies,  and  changing 
suddenly  his  tactics,  he  exchanges  the  harmless  bait 
for  the  other,  which  no  sooner  is  swallowed  by  the 
fish,  than  they  commence  to  turn  somersaults  in  the 


;{5>4  TKAVKI-S   AM»   Al)VENTURt>?. 

air,  with  otlit.r  unties  no  less  unmsinj;  to  the  boys, 
wlio  us  quiekly  trunsrer  them  to  their  husketB.  It  is 
nlnu'St  iueredible  the  uniount  of  iish  thut  is  thus  pro- 
cured in  a  bliort  time,  enubliug  a  poor  Indian  not  only 
to  supply  the  wunts  of  hin  family,  but  to  afford  his 
children  a  lively  reca'ution. 

Still  unuthtr  niotle  of  lishintj,  c<iuully  ingenious,  ih 
I)ructised  by  the  Indiuns  when  the  wuters  connuence 
to  ebb  towurds  the  Oriiutco  ut  the  end  of  the  great 
Hoods,  by  means  of  strong  stockudes  thrown  ucross  the 
outlet  of  the  great  lagunai^,  which  are  the  receptacle 
of  immense  quantity  of  larger  game,  such  as  turtles 
and  vagres  (species  i»f  cattish)  weighing  from  fifty  to 
seventy-live  pounds  ;  lauhius  or  valenlones,  from  two 
hundred  and  fifiy  to  three  hundred  pounds  ;  and  above 
all,  innumerable  manatis,  from  live  hundred  to  one 
thousjind  i)ounds.  European  Spaniards  call  this  ani- 
njal  Vaca  Marina^  or  sea  cow,  and  the  Brazilians 
rdxc  Boi,  ox-fish,  from  its  fectling  on  gniss,  and  other 
peculiarities  which  assimilate  it  to  the  bovine  species. 
The  manati  abounds  in  the  Ajmrc,  the  Meta.  and 
most  of  the  large  tributaries  of  the  Orinoco  below 
the  cataracts,  and  more  especially  in  the  lagoons 
formed  by  these  rivers  during  the  season  of  great 
floods,  which  he  prefers  on  account  of  the  abundant 
and  tender  food  they  ofler  them.  Of  this  the  astute 
Indians  avail  themselves  to  entrap  them,  as  no  Booucr 
do  the  waters  commence  to  fall  than  they  watch  at- 
tentively the  channel  through  which  the  lake  they  have 
chosen  as  a  fish-magazine — for  no  better  name  can 
b'.'  aj)plied,  from  the  liniiy  multitude  they  secure  there 


I'm:    WONDKKS   OF  TlIK  UlVKll.  3^5 

for  montlis — is  likely  to  drain  oil'.  To  this  spot  resort 
the  entire  population  of  the  village  or  tribe,  who  im- 
mediately commence  to  cut  stakes  of  the  requisite 
length  and  of  great  thickness,  to  resist  the  onset  of 
the  formidable  phalanxes  of  monster  fishes  sceldng  a 
passage  to  the  river.  The  stakes  are  then  driven  in 
the  bed  of  the  channel  close  enough  to  permit  only 
the  exit  of  the  water  and  of  the  smaller  iish,  excluding 
the  turtles  and  the  lish  of  greater  magnitude.  The 
stockade  is  further  reinforced  by  cross-beams  of  great 
strength  thrown  across  the  channel,  firmly  secured  at 
both  ends,  and  resting  against  the  stakes  ;  and  for 
greater  security  they  further  strengthen  them  by  an 
outer  row  of  trunks  of  trees  driven  in  the  ground 
close  to  the  stockade.  It  may  appear  superfiuous  to 
take  such  precautions  against  the  apparently  defence- 
less hosts  imprisoned  within  the  boundaries  of  the 
lagoon  ;  but  so  great  and  powerful  are  in  fact  the 
avalanches  of  manatis  struggling  against  this  formi- 
dable barrier,  that  it  is  often  found  necessary  to  rein- 
force it  twice,  and  even  three  times  in  the  course  of 
the  season. 

Indeed  it  is  scarcely  credible,  the  number  and  size 
of  the  creatures  secured  in  this  manner,  whole  tribes 
of  Indians  subsisting  for  months  together  on  the  sup- 
ply afforded  by  one  of  these  reservoirs  ;  but  as  these 
lagoons  eventually  drain  off  towards  the  close  of  the 
rainy  season,  and  the  Indians  cannot  exhaust  them  in 
spite  of  their  insatiate  voracity,  they  are  compelled  at 
last,  though  reluctantly,  to  remove  the  obstruction  in 
time   to  allow  the  fish  to  return  to  the  bed  of  the 


3bG  TKWKI-S   AND   ADVKNTUKES; 

stream  iK'forc  they  arc  cut  off  fnun  it  ;  and  it  is 
assorted  that  un  one  occasion,  haviug  neglected  this 
precaution  lu  time,  more  thau  three  thousand  maua- 
tis,  and  a  still  greater  number  of  hirge  fish,  perished 
in  tlic  shallow  water  of  one  of  these  lagoons,  with  the 
exception  only  of  the  turtles,  who  were,  <»f  coursi',  in 
their  element. 

The  manali  in  a  In  rbivurous  animal  i>f  the  ceta- 
ceous family,  of  which  tho  whale  is  the  type,  and  at- 
tains here  from  twelve  to  fifteen  feet  in  length.  Some 
are  caught  that  weigh  over  a  thoustind  pounds.  In 
6haj)e  it  resembles  a  seal  somewhat,  though  its  eyes 
and  auricular  organs  are  e.xtrcuifly  small,  but  very 
acute,  80  much  so  that  great  care  is  required  on  the 
])art  of  the  lishorman  who  goes  in  pursuit  of  it,  not  to 
strike  the  sides  of  his  ranoe  with  the  paddle  and 
frighten  the  game  olV.  Its  princijial  means  t»f  proj»ul- 
siou  exist  in  its  tail,  which  is  llat  and  ruund,  from 
three  to  four  feet  broad,  and  very  powerful  ;  but  it 
pos-sesses  in  addition  two  j)ectoral  fins,  or  armlets,  sit- 
uated at  a  proportionate  distance  from  the  head,  and 
these  enable  the  animal  to  come  out  of  the  water  to 
browse  on  the  rich  herbage  by  the  banks  of  rivers  and 
lagoons  :  these  annlcts  serve  the  female,  in  atldition,  to 
liold  its  young — always  two  in  number,  male  and  fe- 
male— close  to  its  breasts,  until  they  are  old  enough 
to  follow  the  mother  and  cat  grass,  their  only  IkkA  ; 
and  it  is  a  curious  fact,  that  although  the  mother  often 
delights — as  is  the  habit  of  these  cetacea— in  gambola 
in  the  water,  when  they  sometimes  jumj>  several  feet 
outuf  their  element,  thev  never  lose  hold  of  their  twins. 


THE   WONDKUS  OF  Till':   KIVKK.  387 

The  anatomy  of  this  frcsh-watcr  whale  is  very  cu- 
rious, accorclin<5  to  Humboldt,  who  dissected  one  while 
ou  his  way  to  the  Orinoco.  "  The  upper  lip  was  four 
inches  longer  than  the  lower  one.  It  was  covered  with 
a  very  fine  skin,  and  served  as  a  proboscis.  The  in- 
side of  the  mouth,  which  lias  a  sensible  warmth  in 
the  animal  newly  killed,  presented  a  very  singular 
conformation.  The  tongue  was  almost  motionless  ; 
but  in  front  of  the  tongue  there  was  a  fleshy  excres- 
cence in  each  jaw,  and  a  cavity  lined  with  a  very  hard 
skin,  into  which  the  excrescence  fitted.  The  manati 
eats  such  quantities  of  grass  that  we  have  found  its 
stomach,  which  is  divided  into  several  cavities,  and  its 
intestines  (one  hundred  and  eight  feet  long)  filled  with 
it.  0[)ening  the  animal  at  the  back,  we  were  struck 
with  the  magnitude,  form,  and  situation  of  its  lungs. 
They  have  very  large  cells,  and  resemble  immense 
swimming-bladders.  They  are  three  feet  long ;  filled 
with  air,  they  have  a  bulk  of  more  than  a  thousand 
culjic  inches.  I  was  surprised  to  see  that,  possessing 
such  receptacles  of  air,  the  manati  comes  so  often  to 
the  surface  of  the  water  to  breathe.  Its  flesh  is  very 
savor)',  though,  from  what  prejudice  I  know  not,  it  is 
considered  unhealthy  and  apt  to  produce  fever.  It  ap- 
peared to  me  to  resemble  pork  rather  than  beef.  It  is 
most  esteemed  by  the  Guamos  and  Ottomacs  ;  and 
these  two  nations  are  particularly  expert  in  catching 
the  manati.  The  fat  of  the  animal,  known  by  the 
name  of  manati-butter  (manteca  de  manati)  is  used 
for  lamps  in  the  churches,  and  is  also  employed  in 
preparing  food.     It  has  not  the  fetid  smell  of  whale 


398  TKAVKUS   AM)   AltVESTUUES. 

oil, or  that  of  the  other  cetaceous  ftiiimals  which  spout 
water.  The  hide  of  the  nianati,  which  is  more  than 
an  inch  and  a  )ialf  in  thickness,  is  cut  into  slips,  and 
serves,  like  tlionj^s  of  ox-loather,  to  supply  the  place 
of  cordage  in  the  Llanos.  When  immtTScd  in  water, 
it  has  the  defect  of  undeig<»in{:^  a  slight  degree  of  pu- 
trefaction. Whips  are  made  from  it  in  the  Spanish 
colonies.  Hence  the  words  lat'igo  and  manati  are 
synonymous.  These  whijts  of  nianati  leather  arc  a 
cruel  instrument  of  punishment  for  the  unhappy 
slaves,  and  even  tor  the  Indians  of  the  Missions, 
though,  according  to  the  law.^.  the  latter  ought  to  be 
treated  like  freemen." 

The  address  displayed  hy  an  Indian  of  the  Orinoco 
in  capturing  with  the  har])Oon  one  of  these  monsters 
and  bringing  it  into  port,  with  only  the  assistance  of 
his  wife  to  jjaddle  and  steer  the  frail  canoe,  is  most 
wonderful.  While  the  woman  propels  the  canoe,  the 
man  stands  erect  at  the  bow,  watching  intently  the 
moment  when  the  manati  comes  up  to  the  surface  to 
breathe,  which  it  docs  every  few  minutes.  Off  flies 
the  double-barbed  harjioon  from  the  hands  of  the  fish- 
erman, and  implants  itself  in  the  thick  hide  of  the 
doomed  monster,  which  no  sooner  feels  the  piercing 
blow,  than  away  it  darts  at  a  fearful  raj)idity,  drag- 
ging along  after  it  the  frail  canoe,  to  the  bow  of  which 
is  attached  <ine  end  of  the  thong  made  from  the  tough 
hide  of  the  manati,  while  to  the  other  end  is  firmly 
secured  the  iron  head  of  the  harj>oon  itself  After 
vain  endeavors  to  avoid  the  danger  that  threatens  it, 
now  (la.'^hing  rapidly  against  the  stream  for  an  hour  or 


TUE  WONDERS    OF   THE    RIVER.  3S0 

80,  now  seeking  the  calm  siii-race  of  a  neighboring  la- 
goon, during  which  time  the  sporting  couple  manage 
with  difficulty  to  keep  their  seats  at  the  bottom  of  the 
canoe,  holding  fast  to  the  sides  of  it  with  both  hands, 
the  monster,  bleeding  and  exhausted  after  its  precipi- 
tate flight,  begins  at  last  to  slacken  its  pace,  and 
finally  stops  altogether.  Now  the  hunter  commences 
to  pull  it  towards  him  with  much  caution  ;  but  no 
sooner  does  the  animal  perceive  the  dreaded  canoe 
with  its  savage  occupants,  than  off  it  sets  anew  at  the 
same  lightning  speed,  though  this  time  of  less  duration; 
again  the  hunter  pulls  the  game  towards  him,  and 
again  it  endeavors  to  fly  from  him  ;  but  having  lost 
nearly  all  its  strength,  and  probably  convinced  of  the 
uselessness  of  further  efforts  to  escape,  it  now  stops, 
rolls  on  its  back,  and  calmly  awaits  its  fate  on  the 
surface  of  the  water.  By  this  time  the  canoe  is 
alongside  of  the  captive,  and,  without  further  concern, 
the  Indian  cuts  it  open  with  his  knife,  and  as  soon  as 
the  water  penetrates  to  its  entrails,  the  great  monster 
dies  without  a  struggle.  And  now,  "  what  shall  we 
do  with  it,"  in  the  midst  of  a  river  or  lagoon  four  or 
five  miles  in  width  ?  How  is  this  creature — weighing 
perhaps  a  thousand  pounds,  and  nearly  as  long  as  the 
canoe — to  be  landed  safely  on  the  shore  ?  IIow  can  a 
a  single  man,  assisted  only  by  a  frail  woman,  without 
firm  ground  to  set  their  feet  upon,  manage  to  stow 
away  the  cumbrous  load  ?  Nothing  easier,  incredu- 
lous reader  ;  "  first  catch  the  hare  and  then  make  the 
soup,"  and  this  the  Indian  hunter  daily  practises  in 
his  native  wilds,  without  much  culinary  advice  from 


390  TRAVEIJS  AND  AD  VESTURES. 

Mrs.  Glass,  llavinj;  secured  their  j^mc,  the  hunters, 
or  lishiTS,  phinj^e  in  the  water,  swimminj;  all  thowlule 
with  their  leet  and  one  hand,  wliile  with  the  other  they 
tip  over  the  canoe  until  it  partly  tills  with  water,  which 
brings  it  on  a  level  with  the  carcass  of  the  manati  ;  this 
accomplished,  the  rest  of  the  oi>eration  is  easily  done 
by  sliding  the  canoe  under  the  carcass,  and  then  baling 
out  the  water  by  means  of  calabash  cups,  which  cover 
their  heads  in  lieu  of  hats.  In  proportion  as  they 
bale  out  the  water,  the  canoe  rises  above  the  surface, 
and  when  sutHeiently  high  to  permit  its  being  safely 
navigated  through  the  boisterous  waves  of  the  Orinoco, 
the  huslmnd  leaps  on  the  head  of  the  animal  and 
calmly  takes  his  scat,  while  the  wife  docs  the  same 
on  the  broad  tail  of  the  monster  fish,  and  directing  the 
bow  of  the  canoe  towards  the  shore,  they  paddle  them- 
selves along  with  their  cumbrous  freight,  which  is 
soon  disposed  of  among  the  numt-rous  relations  and 
friends,  who  anxiously  await  their  arrival  uu  the 
beach. 


'ENKS    AT    KI.    IxMtAlM*— (From    a 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 

THE     LAND     OF      EL      DORADO. 

"  AnJ  yet  unspoiled 
Guiana,  -whoso  great  city  Geryou's  sons  * 
Call  KI  Donulo."— Parat/ise  Lost,  Book  xi. 

Before  wc  quit  the  shores  of  the  Apiire,  I  \Till 
invite  the  reader  to  foUow  me  in  imagination,  or, 
better  still,  in  one  of  the  many  bongos  trading  be- 
tween this  and  the  Orinoco  river,  on  to  the  adjoining 
province  of  Guayana,  or  Guiana,  as  it  is  more  com- 
monly known  among  English  writers  and  explorers. 
This  will  give  us  an  opportunity  of  gliding  over  one 
of  the  greatest  rivers  in  the  world,  which  nearly  en- 
circles a  vast  territory  hardly  known  to  civilized  man, 
that  is  just  now  attracting  a  great  deal  of  notice 
on  account  of  the  recent  gold  discoveries  made  there  ; 
a  country  unsurpassed  in  natural  treasures  and  re- 
sources ;  a  sort  of  hidden  paradise  which  greedy  gold- 
hunters  of  former  times   sought  in  vain    under   the 

•  Giicrior?  This  was  the  name  of  a  town  fotiuded  ut  the  confhi- 
enoc  of  the  Pnrapua  and  Caroni  rivers,  long  siocc  destroyed  or  aban- 
doned.— The  Author. 


392  TKAVKLS   AM)  ADVENTURES. 

gilded  name  of  El  Dorado,  and  wliicli,  strange  to 
wiy,  has  remained,  like  the  wealth  of  California,  un- 
discovered until  recently. 

What  a  train  of  awful  recollections  tiiis  once  magic 
name  of  El  Dorado  brings  to  mind  !  What  tales 
(jf  woe,  of  daring  adventure  and  blasted  hu]>es  it  has 
left  behind  fir  the  entertainment  and  millery  of  sub- 
sequent generations  !  And  yet,  the  g:dl:int  llalcigh 
— Sir  Walter — like  Galileo  before  the  tribunal  of  the 
Inquisition,  was  right  in  his  belief  that  there  wa."  gold 
enough  in  (-tuayana  to  load  the  entire  fl'et  ofCriit 
liritain  in  his  time. 

lint  let  us  not  anticijtatc  the  narnii*.  .i  .  >-  ni  . 
which  will  come,  each  one  in  its  turn.  Availing  our- 
selves, therefore,  of  the  gentle  current  of  the  Apure, 
we  will  proceed  on  our  journey,  stopping  here  and 
there  to  get  a  shot  at  the  enormous  crocodiles — 
larger  than  any  we  have  yet  seen — which  infest  its 
waters  near  its  confluence  with  the  Orinoco  ;  and 
])erhaj)S  also  at  some  thirsty  jaguar  taking  its  young 
to  drink.  Humboldt  has  described  these  scenes  so 
vividly,  that  I  must  refer  the  reader  to  the  third 
volume  of  his  *'  Travels,"  Bohn's  edition,  for  further 
information  on  the  subject. 

Proceeding  down  the  river,  which  here  presents 
the  singularity  of  becoming  narrower,  on  account  i>f 
infdt rations  through  a  spongj'  and  sandy  soil,  as  well 
us  other  cause.",  we  come  suddenly  ujwn  a  vast  cx- 
j)ansc  of  waters,  presenting  all  the  appearance  of  an 
agitated  sea,  from  the  conflict  between  breeze  and 
current.       This    is    the    grand    old    river    we    arc  in 


THE  LAND  OF  KL  DORADO.  393 

quest  of,  the  Orinoco.  ''  The  air  resounded  no  longer 
with  the  piercing  cries  of  herons,  flamingos,  and 
s})oonbills,  crossing  in  long  files  from  one  shore  to  the 
other.  Our  eyes  sought  in  vain  those  water- fowls,  the 
liabits  of  wliich  vary  in  each  climate.  Scarcely  could 
we  discover  in  the  hollows  of  the  waves  a  few  large 
crocodiles,  cutting  obliij^uely,  by  the  help  of  their  long 
tails,  the  snrffice  of  the  agitated  waters.  The  horizon 
was  bounded  by  a  zone  of  forests,  which  nowhere 
reached  so  far  as  the  bed  of  the  river.  A  vast  beach, 
constantly  parched  by  the  heat  of  the  sun,  desert  and 
bare  as  the  shores  of  the  sea,  resembles  at  a  distance, 
from  the  effects  of  the  mirage,  pools  of  stagnant 
water.  In  these  scattered  features,  we  recognize  the 
course  of  the  Orinoco,  one  of  the  most  majestic  rivers 
of  the  New  World."  * 

At  this  point  the  Orinoco,  already  enriched  with 
the  tribute  of  the  Guaviare,  the  Inirida,  the  Meta, 
and  the  Arauca,  which,  like  the  Apure,  have  their 
sources  amidst  the  snowy  mountains  of  New  Granada, 
suddenly  changes  its  course,  and,  in  conjunction  with 
the  latter,  flows  nearly  in  a  straight  line  towards  the 
Atlantic,  after  describing  an  arc  of  a  circle  around 
the  western  portion  of  Guayana.  The  vast  territory 
thus  encompassed  within  its  mighty  embrace  gives 
rise  also  to  numerous  other  rivers  hardly  inferior  in 
magnitude  to  the  above-named,  such  as  the  Ventuari, 
the  Cuchivero,  the  Paragua,  the  Caura,  the  Caroni, 
etc.,   all   of  which  flow  into   the   Orinoco  from    the 

'  Tnivols  to  the  E(iiiiiiocti;il  Regions  of  America. 
17* 


304  TRAVKIi?  AND  ADVENTURES. 

poutli,  thus  coutributinj^  to  fswoll  the  volume  of  its 
waters  to  the  extent  tlmt  it  j)rc8ents  by  the  time 
it  reatlies  the  t>ceun  on  the  lifteentli  nuridiun  of 
loni^itudc  eiist  of  "\Vasljin«;t<>n.  Our  route  heinj;  in 
tliis  direction  also,  we  will  not  follow  the  illustrious 
traveller  in  his  laborious  exploration  of  the  Uiipcr 
Orinoco,  the  Casiquiare  and  the  Rio  Negro.  I  wouUI, 
however,  advise  those  who  are  not  conversjint  with 
his  works  to  read  his  descrijttion  of  the  IlatulalcJi,  or 
(jJrcat  Uaj)ids  of  Atures  and  Muipuros.  wliich  he  has 
sketched  with  a  masterly  hand  in  hh  7\iblcau.c  dc 
la  2^\rtu)r.  The  followini;  jta8sii<;e.  quoted  from  said 
work,  will  eonvey  to  tlie  roailer  some  idea  of  the  matr- 
nificence  of  the  river  at  that  iMjint  :  — 

"A  foaming  surface  of  f.>ur  mik-s  in  length  pre- 
sents itself  at  once  to  the  eye  :  iron  black  masses  of 
rock,  resembling  ruins  and  batflemented  towers,  rise 
frowning  from  the  waters.  Rocks  and  islands  are 
adorned  with  the  luxuriant  vegetation  of  the  tropical 
forest  ;  a  perpetual  mist  hovers  over  the  waters,  and 
the  summits  of  the  lofty  palms  pierce  through  the 
clouds  of  spray  and  vapor.  When  the  rays  of  the 
glowing  evening  sun  are  refracted  in  their  humid  ex- 
halations, a  magic  oj)tical  effect  begins.  Colored 
bows  shirie,  vanish,  and  reajqtcar  ;  and  the  ethereal 
imago  is  swayed  to  and  fro  by  the  breath  of  the 
sportive  brtH>zc.  During  the  long  rainy  season,  the 
streaming  waters  bring  down  islands  of  vegetable 
mould,  and  thus  the  naked  rocks  are  studded  with 
bright    tlower-beds    adorned    with     mclastomas    and 


THK   LAND   OF   EL   DORADO.  395 

droseras,  and  with  silver-leavcd  mimosas  aud  ferns. 
These  spots  recall  to  the  recollection  of  the  European 
those  blocks  of  granite  decked  with  flowers  which  rise 
solitary  amidst  the  glaciers  of  Savoy,  and  are  called 
by  the  dwellers  in  the  Alps  '  Jardins/  or'  Courtils.'  " 

This  is  the  country  of  the  India-rul)l)or  and  the 
Brazil-nut  trees,  two  of  the  most  stupendous  denizens 
of  the  tro[)ical  forest  ;  of  the  wild  cacao,  the  fragrant 
sarapia,  or  tonka-bean,  the  sassafras-laurel,  the  ananas 
or  wild  pine-apple,  and  of  numberless  other  useful 
jiroducts,  as  well  as  baneful  drugs  ;  for  here  is  gath- 
ered the  mavacure-vine,  from  the  juice  of  which  the 
Indians  of  this  region  compound  the  most  virulent 
poison  known  in  nature,  the  cMrorc,  which  the  natives 
employ  most  effectively  in  procuring  game  by  the  aid 
of  their  blow-pipes.  So  quick  and  certain  are  its 
ertects,  that  an  animal  wounded  by  one  of  the  small 
arrows  used  for  the  purpose  drops  dead  before  the 
creature  is  hardly  conscious  of  its  danger  ;  and  sin- 
gular enough,  no  evil  effects  whatever  arise  from 
partaking  of  the  game  thus  killed  ;  for  the  curare  is 
perfectly  harmless  when  taken  internally. 

The  Eaudales  are  at  present  a  serious  impediment 
to  the  free  navigation  of  the  river  up  to  the  frontiers 
of  Brazil  ;  although,  as  Humboldt  justly  remarks, 
this  obstmction  could  be  avoided  by  cutting  a  canal 
around  them,  the  nature  of  the  ground  offering  ample 
facilities  for  this  jjurpose  ;  but  this  cannot  be  done 
advantageously  until  the  country  shall  be  better 
stocked  with  population  than  at  present. 


396  TUAVKUS   ASH   ADVENTLRF>. 

ProcL'cJin^  iluwn  the  blrcuni,  the  only  town  of  any 
iin|x>rtunce  wc  encounter  on  the  route  is  Ciudad  Bo- 
livtir,  formerly  Angostum,  which  is  the  capital  of  the 
Statu  of  Ciuayaim  and  a  mart  of  con8idcnil>lc  trade 
with  the  llanos  of  Apure,  Calabozci,  and  IJarinas.  The 
old  name  of  the  city  was  chan;;cd  in  hunor  of  the 
Liberator,  Simon  Bolivar,  who,  after  expelling  the 
Spaniards  from  New  Granada,  assembled  here  the 
first  Congress  which  proclaimed  the  union  of  the 
republic  of  Colombia  in  1S19.  Pleasantly  situated 
on  a  blutr  several  feet  above  the  high-water  level  of 
the  river,  about  three  hundred  miles  from  the  sea, and 
connected  by  its  numerous  tributaries  with  a  country 
nearly  as  large  as  continental  Kurc«pe,  Ciudad  Bolivar 
is  destined  to  become  the  seat  of  a  vast  commerce?, 
when  the  now  almost  desert  region  of  Guayana  shall 
have  o[)cned  its  golden  trciisures  to  an  enterprising 
generation.  At  present  it  contains  about  ten  thou- 
sand inhabitants  ;  has  a  fine  cathedral,  government 
house,  and  very  handsome  j)rivate  residences  and 
warehouses.  The  business,  according  to  all  accounts, 
has  fallen  olV  greatly  since  the  war  of  seven  years 
which,  under  the  alleged  name  of  J\(hra<ioi>,  devas- 
tated the  rest  of  the  republic.  Happily  for  the  State 
of  (iuayana,  it  lias  always  been  kept  free  from  these 
j)eriodical  turmoils  by  the  efforts  of  some  truly  patri- 
otic men — among  others,  John  B.  Dalla-Costa,  Jr.,  the 
present  Trcsident  of  the  State,  under  whose  enlight- 
ened atlministration  jmblic  improvements,  roads,  hos- 
j)itals,  schools,  etc.,  are  being  established,  and  the 
nucleus  of  a  foreign  immigration  started  on  the  way 


THE   LAND    OF   KL    DORADO.  397 

to  the  gold  fields.  The  commercial  houses  arc  })iin- 
cipally  German,  French,  and  Italian  ;  but  of  late 
many  Southern  refugees  from  the  United  States  have 
been  induced  to  try  their  fortunes  on  the  banks  of  the 
Orinoco  ;  and,  judging  from  past  experience  in  the 
rapid  development  of  (Jalifornia  and  Australia,  through 
the  energies  of  the  Anglo-Saxon  race,  the  placers  of 
that  golden  paradise  bid  fair  to  become  another  centre 
of  commercial  intercourse  with  foreign  nations. 

It  was  from  this  place  that  the  first  expedition  in 
search  of  El  Dorado,  on  this  side  of  the  continent,  set 
out  in  159a.  None  of  those  composing  it  ever  came 
back,  however,  to  tell  the  sad  tale  of  their  discom- 
fiture by  the  fierce  tribes  of  Indians  which  dwelt  on 
tlie  fine  savannas  lying  between  the  Caroni  and  Para- 
gua  rivers,  beyond  which  popular  belief,  assisted  by 
the  traditions  of  the  aborigines  themselves,  had  settled 
definitely  the  existence  of  a  region  abounding  in  gold. 
Previous  to  this,  however,  the  fame  of  El  Dorado  had 
spread  over  the  western  part  of  South  America,  and 
several  expeditions  had  been  fitted  out  in  Venezuela, 
New  Granada,  Quito,  and  Peru,  with  the  avowed  ob- 
ject of  conquering  the  wealthy  empire  of  the  Omeguas, 
whose  sovereign.  El  Dorado,  or  the  "  gilded  king,''  was 
represented  as  dwelling  in  palaces  with  columns  of 
massive  gold.  The  climate  of  that  region  being  warm 
throughout  the  year,  and  the  morals  of  the  inhabitants 
not  yet  perverted  by  contact  with  their  would-be 
civilizers.  his  majesty's  attire,  it  was  asserted,  was  in 
keeping  with  the  glitter  of  his  dominions  ;  a  simple 
coatini:  of  balsamiferous  resins,  in  wliieli  the  eountrv 


398  TKAVKl-S    AM)    AI»VKNTLKh>;. 

abounds,  followed  by  a  sprinkling  of  gold-tlu8t  thmugh 
the  hollow  tube  of  a  bamboo,  twice  a  day,  l>eing  suf- 
ficient to  distinguish  him  from  the  rest  of  his  naked 
Buhjeets  :  hence  the  name.  But  this  sort  of  dnipery 
being  rather  uncomfortable  at  bed-time,  it  was  re- 
moved every  night  by  simply  washing  with  water— a 
most  delightful  luxury  in  warm  countries — and  as 
easily  replaced  on  the  following  day.  Where  such 
etnlianas  de  richcssc  could  be  indulged  in  by  a  denii- 
savage  ujonarch,  gold  mines  must  e.xisl  in  abundance  ; 
the  sands  of  the  rivers  and  lakes  must  consist  of  fine 
gold,  and  the  pebbles  and  rocks  of  the  same  precious 
metal.  People  were  not,  however,  in  |>orfect  accord 
respecting  the  precise  hx-ality  of  sai«l  auriferous  king- 
dom ;  some  jjlacing  it  on  the  eastern  side  of  Guay- 
ana,  lus  already  stated,  under  the  name  of  Ei  Dorado 
de  la  Parime  ;  others,  two  hundretl  and  fifty  leagues 
to  the  westwanl  of  this,  near  the  eastern  slope  of  the 
Andes  of  New  Granada  ;  while  not  a  few  contended 
that  it  was  situated  in  the  c<»imtry  of  the  Omeguas, 
bomewhero  near  the  waters  of  the  Upper  Amazon. 

Such  were  the  vague  notions  concerning  the  coun- 
try of  El  Dorado,  which  the  people  of  former  times 
sought  in  vain  at  the  cost  of  many  lives  and  vast 
amounts  of  treasure.  Strange  blindness  !  when  they 
had  it  right  before  tljeir  eyes  I  for,  as  the  noble  mis- 
sionary writ(;r  often  quoted,  Father  Gumilla,  tells  us 
respecting  the  wealth  of  8outh  America  :  "  Let  us 
ask  the  Englishman.  Keymisco,*^  and  other  captains, 

•  Kovnii)",  the  lieutenant  of  Raleigh. 


THE   LAND   OF  EL   DORADO.  399 

countrymen  of  his  :  Friends,  what  journeys  are  these  ? 
for  what  purpose  so  many  dangerous  voyages,  so  many 
losses  of  treasure,  sliips,  and  sailors  ?  *^  Let  us  ask 
both  Pizarros  in  Peru  and  Quito  ;  both  Qucsadas  in 
Santa  Fe  de  Bogota;  Onllana,  on  the  Marailon,  and 
Berrio  on  the  Mcta,  as  well  as  many  other  famous 
chieftains  :  Gentlemen,  what's  your  hurry?  what  the 
object  of  so  many  armaments,  marches,  and  arduous 
explorations,  dangerous  and  painful? — 'We  seek,' 
thoy  answer  '  the  famous  and  opulent  El  Dorado  : 
let  no  one,  therefore,  be  astonished  at  our  determina- 
tion and  earnest  purpose  ;  for  what  is  worth  much, 
must  entail  great  sacrifices.' 

"  The  Athenians  burst  into  laughter  when  they 
met  and  heard  Diogenes  seeking  for  a  man  ;  but  they 
laughed  most  foolishly,  inasmuch  as  the  philosopher 
sought  a  man  of  truth  only  !  one  who  should  profess 
it  in  earnest  ;  and  it  should  have  been  a  matter  of 
shame,  rather  than  raillery,  with  the  men  of  Athens, 
to  k-arn  that  so  great  a  philosopher  could  not  find  one 
among  them.  But  we  shall  not  err  if  we  laugh  at 
the  simplicity  of  those  noble  conquerors.  Most  sin- 
gular spectacle  !  To  see  so  many  Spanish  chieftains 
stumbling  at  each  step  over  an  El  Dorado  of  inex- 
haustible richness,  as  is  in  reality  the  entire  new  king- 


•  Tlic  first  of  the  voyages  undertaken  at  Raleigh's  expense  was  in 
1605;  the  second,  that  of  Laurence  Kcymis,  in  1596;  the  third,  de- 
scribed  by  Thorau.-t  Ma.-!hara,  in  1597;  and  the  fourth,  in  1C17.  The 
first  and  the  last  only  were  performed  by  Raleigh  in  person.  This 
celebrated  man  was  beheaded  October  tho  29tb,  1C18. — Humboldt, 


400  TRAVEI^  AND  ADVENTURES. 

dom  of  (iraim-la,  niui  Ticrra  Finnc,  j«o  abundant  in 
gold,  Bilvt'r,  und  emerald  miius,  such  as  those  already 
luund  within  the  jurisdictions  of  Pamplona,  Maricjuita, 
Muso,  Neiva,  Los  Remedios,  Antioquia,  Anserma 
Choco,  Barvacoius,  and  a  great  many  more  which  are 
waiting  to  be  brought  to  liglit,  as  is  indicated  by  the 
golden  sands  carried  down  by  rivers  and  torrents  from 
the  mountains  ;  thus  showing  their  willingness  to  be 
disentombed.  Therefore,  if  there  are  po  many  scores 
of  Doradus,  immensely  rich  and  su]»enil)undant,  only 
waiting  to  be  worked  ;  why  so  much  restlessness,  so 
much  expenditure  and  wandering  alter  a  Dorado  ? 
What  need  had  Peru  to  risk  her  militia  in  unknown 
regions  to  sufter  and  peri^h  in  jiursuit  of  a  Dorado, 
while  she  jwssesses  the  unrivalled  golden  fields  of 
Caravalla,  with  many  others  ?  And  the  inexhausti- 
ble silver  mountain  of  Potosi,  to  say  nothing  of  other 
veins  of  the  same  metal,  alm(.»st  innumerable,  though 
less  j)rolitic  ?  It  was  indeed  a  singular  idea  to  seek 
abroad,  at  great  cost  of  life  and  treasure,  the  very 
thing  they  }»ossessed  at  hdme." '^ 

Nothing  in  the  history  of  modern  adventure  can 
compare  in  hardihood,  determination,  and  reckless 
disregard  of  life,  with  those  hajdiazard  undertakings 


•  Tlio  prediction)!  of  the  ol<l  Mir-<ionary  of  tlic  Orinoco  liavo  I»o^d 
«inpul«rl,v  torified  in  tliouc  latUr  limes  by  the  Hill  more  recent  di.<tcoT 
eries  iu  IVni ;  for,  as  I  write  thin,  the  news  comes  from  that  country 
tliaf,  in  the  mountains  of  ("hanchaniayo,  Upper  Aniaz.on,  "  pome  gold 
mines  have  been  discovered,  which,  for  their  abundance  and  richncM^ 
Btiri>a*i  those  of  California." — Xarional,  nf  Lima. 


Till'    LAND   OF  EL   DORADO.  401 

in  the  heart  of  South  America  which,  altliongh  prov- 
ing invariably  most  disastrous  to  tlieir  promoters,  re- 
sulted ultimately  in  a  real  benefit  to  the  colonial  pos- 
sessions of  Spain  in  the  New  World,  by  extending  the 
geographical  knowledge  of  those  regions.  To  fiiUy 
comprehend  the  nature  of  the  task  which  these  ad- 
venturers imposed  upon  themselves,  it  will  suffice  to 
say,  with  regard  to  Venezuela,  that  few  spots  only, 
and  these  far  apart,  were  then  occupied  by  Europeans 
along  its  extensive  sea-coast.  The  thirst  for  gold, 
which  characterized  the  spirit  of  the  time,  and  the 
reputation  the  country  enjoyed  for  the  precious  metal, 
as  well  as  for  the  fine  pearls  obtained  at  Margarita 
and  other  places,  had  attracted  thither  a  crowd  of 
lawless  adventurers  from  all  parts  of  Europe,  but  more 
especially  from  Germany — the  Emperor  Charles  the 
Fifth  having,  in  an  evil  hour,  granted  to  a  company 
of  Teutonic  s})CCulators  all  the  territory  comprised  be- 
tween Cabo  de  la  Vela  and  Maracapana,  with  privilege 
to  capture  and  use  as  slaves  all  those  of  the  native 
inhabit<ant8  who  should  resist  their  exactions.  The 
power  thus  conferred  on  those  merciless  adventurers 
was  freely  used  by  them  to  enslave  the  doomed  lords 
of  the  land,  who  were  hunted  like  wild  beasts  in  all 
directions,  and  quickly  transported  to  the  mines  of 
Hispaniola,  or  Saint  Domingo,  where  they  perished 
by  thousands,  the  native  population  of  that  island 
having  already  been  exterminated  in  this  manner. 
To  accomplish  their  work  more  effectually,  expeditiouf^ 
were  organized  and  despatched  to  all  parts  of  the 
country,  some  of  which  penetrated  beyond  the  llanos 


402  TKAVELS   AMI   ADVENTURES. 

of  A|>uro,  Caisiinarc,  uiul  Mctn,  lui  far  as  the  Caqiuta 
and  rutiiiuayo,  trilmtury  rivers  of  the  Ui)|K?r  Amazon. 
Others,  still  more  bol(l,di8rcf^ardin<;  the  frigid  blasts  of 
the  Sierra  ^^cvadft,  with  its  dizzy  precipices  and  yawn- 
ing chasms,  sought  the  '*  Land  of  gold  '  in  a  westerly 
direction,  fighting  their  way  not  otdy  against  a  frowning 
nature,  but  also  Jigainst  the  hardy  mountain  tribes, 
who  disputed  every  inch  of  ground  to  the  beartied  in- 
vaders. It  was  in  this  maimer  that  the  rich  domain 
of  Cundinamanra,  in  New  CJranada,  was  made  known 
to  the  colonists  of  Venezuela,  by  Nicholas  Federmann, 
in  1539,  although  Jimenez  de  Quesada  had  preceded 
him,  and  Sebastian  de  Benalcazar,  by  the  way  of  the 
river  Magtlalena  from  the  coa«t  of  Cartagena. 

'■  The  junction  of  three  bodies  of  troops  on  the 
table-land  of  New  CJranada,*'  siiys  lIumboKlt,  '*  spread 
through  all  that  part  of  America  i>ccupi(.tl  by  the 
Spaniards  the  news  of  an  immcn.sely  rich  and  popu- 
lous country,  which  reuiaiiujd  to  be  coniiucred.  Se- 
bastian de  Benalcazar  marched  frv»m  Quito  byway  o( 
Popayan  (1530)  to  Bogotil  ;  Nicolas  Federmann. 
C(>n>ii)g  from  Venezuela,  arrived  irom  the  cast  by  the 
])lains  of  Casanare  and  Mcta.  These  two  captains 
found,  already  settled  on  the  tahle-land  of  Cundina- 
marca,  the  famous  Adelantado  Gonzalo  Jimenez  de 
Que.sada,  one  of  whose  descendants  I  saw  near  Zipa- 
quira,  with  bare  feet,  attending  cattle.  The  fortuitous 
meeting  of  the  three  conquistadores,  one  of  the  most 
extraordinary  and  dramatic  events  of  the  hist(»ry  of 
the  conquest,  took  place  in  1.'>3G." 

No  better  avenger  of  the  wrongs  perpetrated  on 


TliE   LAM)   OF   KL   DORADO.  4(J3 

the  unlortunate  aborigines  eouUl  have  been  provided 
against  their  merciless  persecutors,  than  this  phantom 
of  untold  wealth,  wbieh,  like  the  fugitive  fountain 
before  Tantalus,  haunted  them  day  and  night,  in  the 
camp  of  the  wearied  soldier,  in  the  alcove  of  the 
proud  Hidalgo,  and  even  in  the  quiet  seclusion  of  the 
cloister.  And  yet  one  cannot  but  admire  tbe  pluck 
of  those  hardy  cavaliers  of  old  who,  regardless  of  the 
almost  insuperable  difticulties  presented  by  an  un- 
known and  savage  country,  went  boldly  in  search  of 
this  new  Opliir  over  lofty  mountain  ranges  and  desert 
plains,  which,  even  at  this  day,  arc  the  terror  of  the 
wayfarer.  Three  centuries  later,  when  Bolivar,  with 
a  well-appointed  army  and  better  roads  than  Feder- 
mann  met  in  his  fiimous  expedition,  crossed  the  Cor- 
dilleras from  the  plains  of  Venezuela,  and  undeitook 
the  recovery  of  New  Granada  from  the  Spaniards  in 
1819,  he  lost  nearly  all  his  baggage-mules,  and  many 
valuable  lives  besides,  amidst  the  wintry  ^Jra/nos  of 
that  tempestuous  ridge. 

Of  the  earliest  expeditions  in  search  of  El  Dorado, 
those  undertaken  by  Jorge  de  Spira  in  1534,  and  by 
Felipe  de  Urre  or  Utre,*  in  1541,  from  the  coast  of 
Coro,  Venezuela,  rank  among  the  most  extraordinary 
on  record.  The  former  of  these  worthies  had  received 
the  title  of  addantado,  or  governor,  to  the  German 
colony  in  Tierra  Firmc,  a  dignity  which  was  associated 
in  those  days  with  the  more  vainglorious  aspirations 


•  Jorge  de  Spina  (George  von  Spcier)  unci  Ft-lipe   do  Utrc  (Ulre, 
Vou  Iluteii),  as  well  aa  Fcdermaun,  were  alJ  Germans. 


404  TUAVKI^  AND  ADVEXTURES. 

of  the  con<iiieror,  or  conquistador,  and  to  this  end  wcro 
dircctcil,  mure  or  less,  nil  tliu  t.lloits  ol  the  men  ap- 
pointed to  jilaces  of  dlstincliou  in  the  New  World, 
without  neglecting  to  provide  themselves  with  the 
more  substantial  perquisitics  of  the  fraternity  in  the 
shajMJ  of  Indian  captives,  pearln,  and  gold.  Accord- 
ingly, the  Adelantadu  took  especial  care  to  bring  with 
him  from  tSpain  a  force  of  about  four  hundred  nun, 
many  of  whom  were  j)enjons  of  distinction,  and  landed 
in  Coro  in  the  early  j)art  of  February  of  that  year. 

Without  troubling  himself  much  about  the  aflairs 
of  the  colony,  the  new  Adelantado  proceeded  immedi- 
ately to  scour  the  countr)'  in  search  of  gold  ;  but  find- 
ing none  amongst  the  savage  tribes  he  encountered 
beyond  the  mountains  of  tlic  coast,  boldly  jilungtri 
into  the  marc  magnum  of  tlie  llanos,  in  spite  of  the 
oj)pttsition  of  the  natives  and  the  asperity  of  the  route. 
The  vernal  deluge  of  the  low  lands,  however,  i)Ut  a 
stop  in  due  time  to  further  progress,  compelling  him 
to  seek  the  protection  of  the  hilly  count r}'  to  the  west- 
ward, where  years  after  was  foundinl  the  city  of  Bari- 
nas.  Here  he  spent  several  montlis  wailing  for  the 
return  of  the  dry  season,  and  in  vain  endeavors  to  ob- 
tain provisions  in  a  country  solely  inhabited  by  savage 
tribes,  that  did  not  disdain  to  confront  the  superior 
mettle  of  his  men  whenever  they  had  a  chance.  Re- 
duced at  last  to  the  greatest  extremity  by  famine  and 
sickness,  the  Governor  despatched  a  portion  of  his 
f  tree  under  one  of  his  most  tried  captains,  with  orders 
to  penetrate  into  the  valleys  formed  by  the  lofty  range 
of  mountains  t'urthcr  west. 


TlIK   LAND   OF   KF-   DORADO.  4()5 

Goaded  by  Imngor,  and  with  the  liopc  of  finding 
more  promising  rcahns  than  those  they  had  cncoun- 
tored  on  the  route  from  Coro,  the  soldiers  of  Spira  did 
not  stop  until  they  discovered  on  a  high  mountain 
what  seemed  to  be  the  granary  of  the  tribes  apper- 
taining to  that  district,  Avhich  they  were  not  slow  in 
trans{)orting  to  hcadtpiarters.  Somewhat  restored  with 
this  ojiportune  supply  of  food,  and  not  in  the  least 
daunted  by  the  dangers  that  threatened  him,  Spira 
resolved  to  proceed  on  his  forlorn  journey,  sending 
back  to  Coro  the  sick  and  wounded  under  a  compe- 
tent escort,  which  was  to  rejoin  him  in  his  camp. 
This  accomplished,  the  Adelantado  resumed  his  march 
across  the  plains  in  a  southward  direction.  Keeping 
in  sight  of  the  western  cordillcra,  and  guided  by  the 
celestial  constellations  at  night,  Spira  and  his  brave 
companions  presented  the  spectacle  so  well  described 
by  Goldsmith  in  the  following  lines  : — 

"To  distant  climes,  a  dicary  scone, 
Where  half  the  convex  world  intrudes  between, 
Through  torrid  tracks  with  fainting  step  they  go." 
Tin  Descried  Village. 

After  several  months  of  arduous  vicissitudes,  when 
they  nearly  all  perished  for  want  of  provisions,  sub- 
sisting in  the  mean  time  on  the  tender  shoots  of 
heliconias  and  tlie  most  loathsome  reptiles,  they  stop- 
l>ed  at  last  on  the  banks  of  the  river  Upia,  having 
crossed  many  others  of  no  less  consequence,  such  as 
the  Apure,  the  Sarare,  and  the  Casanare,  by  what 
means  the  chronicles  of  the  lime  do  not  tell  us. 
Completely  exhausted  now,  and  again  threatened  by 


40G  TKAVEI.S   AM)   Al)\  KNTL'KES. 

the  approiK-liing  miny  season,  tlje  weary  caruvan  jirc- 
pan.(l  to  winter  there,  Kelectiug  I'ur  the  puritose  boiik- 
high  ground  near  a  forest,  upun  which  they  built  huts 
and  considered  themselves  secure  against  the  vernal 
flood.  Vain  precautions!  The  thundering  voice  of 
the  tropical  teinj)est  made  itself  heanl  at  length,  and 
niither  huujau  ingenuity,  nor  high  bank,  ntr  tangled 
forest,  could  turn  aside  the  mighty  swell  whieh,  like 
a  jiartial  deluge,  8weej>s  over  the  boundless  plain  at 
the  vernal  equinox.  Thus  the  bold  Castilians,  after 
courageously  braving  the  terrors  of  a  sjivage  country 
for  nearly  two  years,  found  themselves  re<luccd  to  a 
small  sjiace  (»f  dry  land,  and  in  danger  of  being  wjish- 
ed  away  at  any  moment.  Ignorant  of  the  ways,  and 
badly  jin>viiled  with  the  necessary  appliances  for  pro- 
curing game  in  a  country  so  j)rofusely  end')We(l  with 
this  comnjt)dity,  they  wen.>  still  compelled  to  subsist 
on  wild  fruits  and  roots  ;  even  these  could  mtt  be 
j)rocured  but  at  the  j>eril  of  ravenous  jaguars,  which, 
like  themselves,  had  been  driven  thither  by  the  en- 
gulfing inundation.  More  skilled  in  the  art  of 
swimming  and  navigating  those  waters,  the  vengeful 
Indians  watched  stealthily  ever}'  ojiportunity  to  pick 
off  stragglers  from  the  camp  ;  and  thus  many  of  those 
poor  wretches  were  spared  the  horrors  of  a  lingering 
death  by  starvation,  sicknes.s,  and  despair.  Yet,  the 
unc»)nquerable  spirit  of  their  leader,  far  from  yielding 
to  the  force  of  circumstances,  and  wholly  impressed 
with  vi.sions  of  a  golden  panulise,  only  seemed  to  urge 
him  on  still  fartlur  in  tli(>  unknown  interior  ;  for  no 
sooner  was  he  released  from  his  long  confinement  by 


THE   LAM)   OF  KL    DOIIADO.  40Y 

the  sul)siJonce  of  the  waters,  than  Spira  crossed  over 
to  the  south  side  ot"  the  river,  and  proceeded  on  his 
journey,  through  innumerable  hostile  tribes  of  Indians, 
Avlio  annoyed  him  considerably  on  his  march.  During 
his  wanderings  over  those  immeasurable  wilds,  Spira 
obtained  from  an  Indian  captive  some  informati  n 
respecting  more  jirosperous  and  populated  lands  to 
the  westward,  the  inhabitants  of  which  were  clad  in 
fine  cotton  fabrics,  and  wore  ornaujcnts  of  gold,  show- 
ing a  higher  grade  of  civilization  than  that  of  the  sav- 
ages he  had  encountered.  Although  at  first  he  lent  a 
willing  ear  to  the  story,  and  even  sent  a  strong  body 
of  men  to  reconnoitre  the  lofty  mountain  range  be- 
yond, the  Adelantado  desisted  from  his  projected  con- 
quest in  that  direction,  owing  to  the  rugged  nature 
of  the  route,  as  reported  by  his  men,  and  the  little 
faith  he  placed  on  such  statements  from  Indian  in- 
formers. The  liict  is,  the  Spaniards  had  proved  such 
troublesome  guests,  that  the  aborigines,  to  get  rid  of 
them,  and  j)crcciving  their  eagerness  for  gold,  con- 
stantly allured  them  towards  the  wealth  of  other 
countries,  situated  farther  off.  Had  Spira,  on  this 
occasion,  followed  the  advice  of  his  informant,  instead 
of  persisting,  as  he  did,  in  his  southern  exploration, 
he  would,  in  a  short  time,  have  found  the  promised 
land  of  his  expectations — the  rich  and  fertile  cotmtry 
of  the  Muiscas,  in  one  word,  for  he  was  then  only  a 
few  days'  march  from  their  own  capital  on  the  high 
tabk'-land  of  Bogota.  His  bad  luck  led  him  instead 
to  a  region  so  exactly  the  reverse  of  this,  that  his 
cou)panions  gave  it  the  name  of  Mai  Pais  (bad  coun- 


408  TKAVEI-S    AND   ADVENTL'RtilS. 

try),  not  only  on  account  of  the  roughness  of  the  Innd. 
but  also  of  its  inhabitants,  with  whom  they  had  sev- 
eral desperate  enj^agemcnts,  before  they  were  enabled 
to  proceed. 

Without  losing  sight  of  the  friendly  coRlilleni 
which  had  guided  their  steps  thus  far,  the  Spaniards 
arrived  at  the  village  of  a  less  pugnacious  tribe  »•!  In- 
dians, which  they  christened  with  the  name  o(  Xtlcstr^f 
Sii'iorn,  or  Our  Lady,  in  conimciuoration  of  the  Fea^t 
t»f  the  Assumption,  which  they,  in  spite  of  their 
wretched  conditio »n,  celebrated  with  great  pomp  and 
rejoicings,  in  1537.  It  is  the  same  where  they  after- 
wards founded  the  city  of  San  Juan  de  los  Llanos/- 
Here  the  Spaniards  heard  again  of  regions  al)oundinL' 
in  gohl  and  silver,  situated  farther  on  ;  and  although 
they  had  become  rather  increduU>us  respecting  sucli 
re|)orts,  they  believed,  on  this  occasion,  what  the  In- 
dians told  them,  in  consequence  of  finding  there  some 
signs  of  a  more  advanced  state  of  civilization,  such  as 
ft  tem})le,  consecrated  to  the  sun,  and  a  convent  of 
virgins  similar  to  those  which  were  afterwards  found 
among  the  Muiacas  and  IVnivians.  Without  stopping 
even  to  rest  his  troo]\  Spira  crossed  the  Ariari,  per- 
haps higher  up  than  Macatoa,  and  before  its  junction 
with  the  Guaviarc.  He  then  penetrated,  by  force  of 
arms,  into  the  country  of  the  Guayupes  an<l  Cani- 
camares,  two  powerful  tribes,  and  shortly  afterwards 
lie  diseoverecl  the  head  waters  of  the  Papamene,  where 
he  stopped   some  days  to  rest  his  men,  and  to  obtain 

•  Sec  ni.ip,  at  frontispiece. 


THK    LAND   OF   HL    DORADO.  409 

guides  among  the  Indians  to  conduet  him  to  the 
country  of  riches.  The  dwellers  of  l'i4)amene  received 
Spira  in  a  friendly  manner,  and  established  with  his 
soldiers  a  system  of  exchanges  and  communication 
most  acceptable  on  both  sides  ;  the  strangers  obtain- 
ing by  these  means  the  provisions  they  were  in  need 
of,  and  the  Indians  those  trinkets  of  foreign  manufac- 
ture so  highly  prized  by  them.  But,  tired  at  last  of 
their  troublesome  guests,  the  aborigines  persuaded 
them  that  a  little  further  on  they  would  find  the 
country  they  were  in  quest  of.  To  encourage  them 
still  more,  five  of  the  natives  volunteered  to  act  as 
guides,  pledging  themselves  to  lead  them  shortly  to 
the  heart  of  that  happy  country,  from  whence  they 
would  return  loaded  with  riches.  Instead  of  this,  the 
wily  Indians  conducted  them  to  a  dismal  labyrinth 
of  swamps  and  quicksands,  the  abode  of  a  ferocious 
and  warlike  nation,  dexterous  in  battle  and  in  the 
management  of  formidable  lances  of  i)alm-wood,  tip- 
ped with  blades  of  human  bone,  very  sharp  and  pointed. 
When  once  in  the  heart  of  this  horrid  wilderness,  the 
guides  disappeared  one  night,  and  left  their  friends  to 
shift  for  themselves. 

Xot  in  the  least  disconcerted  by  the  untoward 
contretemps,  the  stubborn  leader  of  the  band,  instead 
of  retracing  his  steps,  pre])ared  at  onco  to  make  a 
thorough  exploration  of  that  region.  To  this  end  he 
detailed  his  lieutenant,  Esteban  Martin — a  well  tried 
and  competent  individual — with  fifty  infantry  and 
twenty  horsemen,  to  reconnoitre  the  position.     Martin 


410  TKAVKI-S  AND  AUVKNTURES. 

and  tlie  ilaiigcre  to  which  they  all  would  be  cxiK>sed 
it*  the  Governor  persisted  in  his  jirojeet.  After  an  in- 
clVcctual  reconnoisancc  of  live  days'  duration,  when 
men  and  horses  were  constantly  in  danger  of  beint; 
swallowed  up  by  tlie  treacherous  ground,  he  returned 
to  the  camp,  and  aj^ain  endeavored  to  dissuade  the 
(lovcrnor  from  his  fooUianly  scheme  ;  but  Sjtira  was 
deaf  to  the  timely  advice  of  his  lieutenant.  Onleriiii: 
liim  to  leave  behind  the  horses,  and  to  take  the  fifty 
men  already  allotted  to  the  service,  he  enjoined  Mar- 
tin to  resume  the  reconnoisance  forthwith,  by  a  differ- 
ent route. 

The  result  of  the  foray  was  just  as  the  lieutenant 
had  foreseen.  The  Indians  allowed  them  to  penetrate 
unmolested  into  the  interior  of  their  8tn»ni;hold,  and 
then  cut  them  up  in  detail.  Although  the  Sjmnianls 
fought  like  lions  on  this  occasion,  ver}'  few  of  them 
were  fortunate  enough  to  reach  headquarters,  to  a]>- 
prisc  the  stubborn  Governor  of  his  danger.  It  became 
now  necessary  to  effect  a  retreat  from  that  den  of  hor- 
rors which  the  Sjmniards  stigmatized  with  theapjiropri- 
ate  name  of  Los  Chngtus — the  Onslaughts — in  allusion 
to  the  repeated  attacks  which  the  enemy  ma<le  u)>on 
them  while  endeavoring  to  accomjdish  their  escajie. 
Unfortunately  for  the  invaders,  as  they  were  then 
very  near  the  line  of  the  equator,  where  it  rains  almost 
incessantly,  they  had  to  contend  also  against  the  in- 
clemency of  the  weather,  which  brought  on  a  multi- 
tude of  diseases  \ory  fatal  to  men  and  horses  ;  for 
they  had  neither  the  means  nor  the  physical  strength 
to  counteract  them.      Thus  manv  of  these  brave  fel- 


Till-:    LAND    OF   EL    DORADO.  411 

lows  became  a  prey  to  the  distemper,  among  them 
several  distinguished  individuals,  whose  names  are 
given  by  Ovicdo  in  his  ''  Historia  de  la  Conciuista," 
such  as  Francisco  Murcia  de  Kondon,  who  had  acted  as 
secretary  to  King  Francis  the  First  of  France  during 
his  captivity  in  Spain. 

The  most  difficult  part  of  the  undertaking  re- 
mained yet  to  be  accomplished,  namely,  that  of  re- 
tracing their  steps  to  the  sea-coast  through  a  flooded 
and  deserted  country  ;  for,  with  the  previous  experi- 
ence of  the  natives,  the  villages  were  abandoned  at  the 
approach  of  the  dreaded  foreigners,  and  stripped  of 
their  provisions.  So  great  was  the  destitution  among 
the  followers  of  Spira,  that,  on  one  occasion,  a  party 
of  his  men  fell  in  with  an  infant,  left  forsaken  by  its 
mother  in  the  hurry  of  the  moment  after  a  surprise  ; 
nnd,  without  the  least  compunction,  they  devoured  it 
along  with  some  edible  roots  found  in  the  hut.  When 
Spira  heard  of  it  he  would  have  made  an  example  of 
the  cannibals  on  the  spot ;  but  considering  that  he  was 
still  in  an  enemy's  country,  and  that  he  could  not 
very  well  spare  the  men — four  in  number — he  com- 
muted the  sentence  of  death  passed  upon  them  to 
some  other,  though  quite  severe  punishment.  They 
all,  however,  got  their  deserts  after  a  while  ;  for,  as 
the  historiographer  Oviedo  tells  u.s,  every  one  of  them 
died  in  the  most  distressing  agony — although  of  vari- 
ous diseases — at  the  thought  of  the  horrid  crime  they 
had  committed. 

A  whole  year  was  spent  in  this  disastrous  retreat, 
which,  more  than  any  other  feat  of  arms,  proved  the 


41; 


TItAVEl-S   AM*   ADVKSTL'RES. 


mettle  uf  the  Ik»U1  conquerors.  The  reuinants  of  what 
was  a  ilasliinj;  jihahiux — ninety  men  uut  of  the  four 
humlretl  that  live  years  before  Jiad  started  in  search 
of  wealth  and  fame  — reached  Core  in  February  of 
1539  ;  and  these,  far  from  being  discouraged  by  ymsi 
misfortunes,  only  inflatncd  the  ardor  of  other  incau- 
tious adventurers  to  join  theniin  a  renewed  search  for 
El  Dorado  ;  for  we  find  Felipe  de  Urre  and  Pedro  de 
Limpias,  two  of  Spini's  folluwers,  engaging  in  a  similar 
expedition  soon  after  the  return  of  this  ill-fated  con- 
quistmlor,  who  did  not  long  survive  the  hardships  of 
that  fearful  journey,  for  he  die<l  in  Coro  on  the  12th 
of  June,  1510.  Ilis  successor,  as  Governor  of  the 
colony,  Bishoj)  de  las  Bastidas,  whose  mission  os  a 
prelate  of  the  church  should  have  l)een  one  of  "  j)eace 
on  earth,  and  gcK)d-will  to  men,"  far  from  discounte- 
nancing these  reckless  enterprises,  became  himself  a 
most  ardent  votary  of  the  "  gilded  king,'  to  whom 
he  prepared  to  pay  his  respects  through  his  lieutenant, 
the  famous  conquistador,  Felipe  de  Urre,  like  Spira 
and  Federmann,  of  German  nationality.  The  ex- 
chequer of  the  colony  being  rather  short  of  funds  at 
the  time,  the  Right  Reverend  sent  an  expedition  un- 
der Pedro  de  Limj»ias,  to  the  lake  of  Maracaibo,  for 
the  puri>ose  of  obtaining  its  equivalent  in  the  .shape 
of  Indian  captives,  a  species  of  merchandise  which 
commanded  a  ready  sale  among  the  traders  on  the 
coast  of  Ticrra  Firme.  The  speculation  succeedeil  so 
well  that,  by  the  month  of  June,  1541,  the  Com- 
mander-in-chief was  ready  to  start  at  the  head  of  one 
hundred   and  fifty  men,  woll  armed  and  equipped  for 


THE   LAND   OF   EL   DORADO.  413 

a  protracted  camjiaign.  Urrc  appointed  as  his  cliief 
of  stair  the  uhiqnitous  Pedro  dc  Limpias,  a  brave  and 
crafty  adventurer,  long  experienced  in  Indian  forays, 
cs])eeially  that  of  the  unfortunate  Jorge  de  Spira, 
and  afterwards  under  Fedcrmann,  during  his  perilous 
journey  over  the  icy  Sierras  of  Cundinamarca. 

The  only  pass  through  the  northern  cordillera  then 
known  to  the  colonists  was  that  of  Agua-Caliente,  a 
little  to  the  south  of  the  present  site  of  Puerto  Ca- 
bello,  and  the  same  that  Spira  and  Federmann  sought 
some  years  before  in  their  march  through  to  the  Llanos. 
This  pass  being  situated  some  fifty  leagues  east  of 
Coro,  and  no  roads  existing  at  that  time,  the  little 
band  of  Felipe  de  Urre  had  to  follow  the  coast-line 
intervening  between  both  places,  with  no  small  incon- 
venience to  men  and  beasts,  from  the  burning  sands 
and  the  quagmires  they  must  have  encountered. 

The  route  being  pretty  well  known  already,  Urrc 
had  no  ditHculty  in  linding  the  pass  ;  and  then  fol- 
lowing the  line  of  march  of  his  predecessors  in  their 
famous  perambulations  through  the  Llanos,  he  reached 
La  Fragua,  or  Nuestra  Senora,  in  safety,  stopping 
there  for  a  while  imtil  the  return  of  the  dry  season, 
and  to  obtain  further  information  respecting  the  mys- 
terious land  he  was  in  quest  of.  His  astonishment 
was  great,  however,  when  he  heard  that,  a  few  days 
before,  Hernan  Perez  de  Quesada,  with  a  large  force 
from  Cundinamarca,  had  passed  through  that  place  in 
quest  of  El  Dorado.  Fearing  that  the  Spaniard 
might  get  ahead  of  him  in  this  coveted  conquest, 
Urrc  left  his  winter  quarters  sooner  than  he  had  cal- 


411  TKAVEl^S   AM)   ADVENTLRKS. 

cuhiloil,  ami  reached  the  country  of  Pu|)ainene.  From 
thence  he  mi^ht  have  {gained  easy  access  to  the  poitu- 
lous  and  well-stocked  country  of  the  Guayupes,  hut  for 
his  ohstinacy  in  keejiing  the  track  of  tjnesada  in  his 
march  southward.  Althou<^li  warncnl  in  time  of  the 
dangers  of  this  route  hy  a  friendly  Indian,  who  offered 
to  conduct  him  instead  to  the  rich  domain  of  Macatoa 
in  a  south-easterly  direction,  the  stuhborn  GerUiau 
still  persisted  in  his  purjxtse,  with  no  better  luck 
than  his  rival  ;  who  barely  escaped  with  his  life,  and 
the  loss  of  the  greater  portion  of  his  followers,  to  the 
high  table-land  of  Papayan,  after  two  years  of  wan- 
derings and  vicissitudes  through  the  most  dismal  soli- 
tudes and  tangled  forests. 

Compelled  by  the  approaching  rainy  season  to 
seek  also  the  proximity  of  the  mountains,  and  with 
most  of  his  force  in  a  dejjlurablc  condition,  Urre  has- 
tened to  establish  his  winter  quarters  un  a  spur  of  tin- 
Andes,  which  stretches  far  into  the  low  lands,  anil 
was  named  by  them  the  Punta,  or  Cape  of  Los  Par- 
daos.  But  here  an  unexpected  misfortune  awaitetl 
I  hem  ;  for  the  district  being  scarcely  inhabited,  they 
could  find  no  j)rovision8  during  their  long  wintry  cap- 
tivity ;  subsisting,  like  Spira  and  his  men,  on  reptiles 
and  the  like.  The  greatest  luxury  they  enjoyed  at 
times  was  a  ball  of  corn-meal,  well  seasoned  with  a 
species  of  rcd-auts,  and  roasted  on  the  embers.  The 
game  was  easily  secured  by  placing  the  moist  paste 
near  the  mouth  of  the  ant-nest,  which  soon  attracteil 
the  insects,  and  when  well  covered  with  them,  they 
were  kneaded  together,  the  same  operation  being  re- 


Till';  ],ANi)  or  i:l  noRAOo.  415 

[iprttcJ  seveml  times,  uiilil  the  roll  contained  more 
insects  than  paste.  Reduced,  in  C()use(xueucc,  to  the 
condition  of  walking  skeletons,  and  most  of  them  cov- 
eicd  with  the  most  loathsome  tumors  and  ulcers,  the 
forlorn  wanderers  could  hardly  extricate  themselves 
from  that  theatre  of  their  misfortunes,  when  the  sub- 
sidence of  the  waters  allowed  them  to  seek  their  old 
quarters  at  La  Fragua,  to  recruit  before  engaging  in 
new  adventures. 

Although  the  force  had  dwindled  down  to  less  than 
half  the  number  of  those  originally  brought  from  Coro, 
Felipe  de  Urre  determined  to  resume  his  explora- 
tions with  only  forty  men,  which  was  all  that  could  be 
got  together,  after  leaving  a  sufficient  number  at  La 
Fragua  for  the  protection  of  the  sick.  Eemembering 
the  advice  given  him  by  the  Indian  guide  of  Papa- 
mene  to  look  for  the  country  of  the  Omeguas  in  a  dif- 
ferent direction  from  that  taken  by  Quesada  in  his 
perilous  pilgrimage,  L'rre  set  out  in  quest  of  Macatoa 
— situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  great  river  Gua- 
viurc — as  the  most  convenient  centre  for  future  opera- 
tions against  the  warlike  Omeguas. 

Whether  it  was  indifference  on  the  part  of  the  In- 
dians, or  a  preconcerted  plan  to  bring  their  common 
enemy  to  speedy  destruction  at  the  hands  of  the 
Omeguas,  the  most  powerful  nation  among  them,  the 
fact  is,  that  the  invaders  found  no  difficulty  in  pene- 
trating as  far  as  ]\Iacatoa  by  the  help  of  Indian  guides 
and  assistance.  In  like  manner  the  lord  of  Macatoa, 
on  being  informed  of  the  purpose  which  had  brought 
the   strangers    thus    far,   received    them  with    every 


410  TUAVKIS   AM)   ADVENTURESS. 

dcmonstnition  of  friendship,  giving  up  to  them  the 
most  coiniuoilious  residences  in  the  town,  nnd  assist- 
ing tliem  with  provisions  nnd  attendants  in  abun- 
dance. The  same  courtesies  wea'  extended  to  them 
at  their  dejiarture,  although  the  Caci(iue  warned  his 
guests  of  tlio  perils  they  would  encnunter  if  they  per- 
sisted in  attacking  the  Oiiieguas  with  so  small  a  force. 
In  order  to  expedite  their  march,  the  Cacique  sent 
messengers  ahead  to  apjirise  the  lord  of  the  next  tribe, 
his  ally — situated  some  nine  days*  joumey  from  ^la- 
catoa — of  their  coming,  and  recommending  them 
strongly  to  his  care  and  attention.  On  arriving  there. 
Bo  captivated  were  the  inhabitants  with  the  novelty 
of  the  stmngers  and  their  attire,  esj)ecially  witli  the 
horses,  that  they  became  even  more  obsorjuinus  than 
the  peojtle  of  Macatoa,  and,  like  these,  warned  the 
leader  of  that  squad  of  advent UR*rs  not  to  engage  in 
80  desperate  a  combat  with  the  Omeguas,  represent- 
ing likewise  to  Felipe  de  Urre  tliat  these  people  pos- 
sessed also  domestic  quadrupcils  of  large  size — proba- 
bly llamas — which  they  could  use  like  horses  if  they 
chose.  In  addition  to  these  facts  the  Spaniards  wen' 
reassured  of  the  immense  wealth  in  gold  and  silver 
everywhere  to  be  found  among  tliat  populous  nation, 
which  news  so  excited  their  avarice  that,  di.^^reganling 
all  the  chances  against  the  success  of  their  enterprise, 
they  hastened  towards  the  goal  of  their  expectations. 
Perceiving  that  his  arguments  were  of  no  avail 
with  the  Castilians,  to  deter  them  fnmi  their  rash  un- 
dertiikin.:,  the  friemlly  Cacique  oftcred  to  escort  them 
with  a  r<>\v  oC  his  subjects,  on  the  road   to  the  nation 


THE  LAND   OF   EL   DORADO. 


417 


of  the  OmoguAs,  reaching  the  first  of  their  outposts 
in  five  days.  It  is  related  by  the  chronicles  that, 
having  ascended  some  high  ground  near  by,  the  Span- 
iards descried  a  city  of  such  extraordinary  extent  and 
magnificence,  that,  although  not  very  far  off,  they 
could  not  see  the  end  of  it.  The  streets  were  straight, 
and  the  buildings  quite  near  each  other  ;  among  the 
hitter  was  to  be  seen  a  superb  edifice  of  vast  propor- 
tions, which  the  friendly  Cacique  told  them  was  the 
palace  of  the  lord  of  that  city,  whose  name  was  Cua- 
rica  ;  and  that  it  served  the  double  function  of  habita- 
tion to  his  lordship,  and  temple  to  many  gods,  or  idols, 
of  solid  gold. 

Here  the  Cacique,  having  accomplished  his  errand, 
proposed  to  return  to  his  own  dominions  ;  but  before 
taking  leave  of  his  j)ro(c(/('s,  he  advised  Urre,  as  a  last 
token  of  his  regard,  to  capture,  at  all  hazards,  the 
men  stationed  at  the  })ost,  before  they  should  carry  the 
alarm  into  the  city.  The  suggestion  was  fully  appre- 
ciated by  the  Commander  and  some  olficers  near  him, 
all  of  whom  being  on  horseback  at  that  moment,  im- 
mediately gave  chase  to  the  fugitive  Omeguas.  One 
of  these,  finding  himself  hard  pressed  by  Urre,  who 
rode  aliead  of  his  companions,  turned  round  suddenly, 
and  struck  the  Commander  so  powerful  a  blow  with 
his  lance,  that  it  pierced  right  through  his  cuirass, 
j'onetrating  deeply  into  the  ribs  of  the  right  side. 
Disconcerted  with  the  blow,  and  the  pain  inflicted  by 
the  wound,  Urre  abandoned  the  pursuit,  and  turned 
back  to  rejoin  his  companions,  while  the  fugitives 
made  their  escape  into  the  city. 
18* 


418  TKAVKLS  AND  ADVESTCRE8. 

Greatly  iteridoxtHl  with  tliis  unexpected  mishap 
to  their  Cuimimnder,  uml  fearing  that,  ahirmed  with 
the  rejHjft  carried  by  theiulvnnced  guard  into  the  city, 
the  Omeguas  would  imnietliatcly  sally  forth  to  encoun- 
ter them  in  great  numbers,  the  Siwiniardn,  by  the  advice 
uf  their  friendly  Indian  guide,  who  still  remained 
by  them,  placing  their  woundetl  leader  in  a  ham- 
mock, resolved  to  retire  at  once  from  the  neighbor- 
hood. Their  apprehensions  were  scnm  realized  ;  for, 
in  a  little  while,  they  heard  the  confused  yells  of  the 
multitude,  amidst  the  ominous  bc>oming  of  big  drums 
and  other  war  instruments,  preparing  for  the  attack. 
Happily  for  the  retreating  Sj»aniards,  night  camo  on 
eo<.»n  after,  which  enabled  them  to  place  a  good  dis- 
tance between  tliemselves  and  the  advancing  columns 
of  the  cnenjy. 

On  arriving  at  the  village  of  their  good  friend  the 
Cacitpie,  the  iiist  care  was  to  attend  to  the  chieftain's 
wound,  as  well  as  circumstances  would  permit  ;  but 
hardly  were  they  established  here,  when  the  Cacique, 
apprised  by  some  of  his  people  who  were  working  on 
their  fiehls,  informed  Urre  of  the  approach  of  the 
Omeguas.  Unable  to  jtlace  himself  at  the  head  of  his 
soldiers,  the  Commander  ordered  his  lieutenant,  Pedro 
de  Limpias,  to  give  them  battle  at  once,  regardless  of 
tiieir  numbers,  which,  according  to  Oviedo,  amountcil 
to  not  less  than  fifteen  thousand.  The  ground  Wing 
favorable  for  the  use  of  cavalry,  Limpias  headed  the 
charge  with  the  few  horses  he  had  at  his  comman<l  ; 
and  although  the  Omeguas  resisted  f<»r  some  tiiue  the 
onset  i)f  those  aninials, — scenbv  them  for  the  first  time, 


THE   LAM)   OF   EL    DOHADO.  419 

— they  at  last  commenced  to  f^ive  way  ;  and  the  infan- 
try soldiers  coming  up  at  this  moment  under  the  or- 
ders of  another  bravo  captain,  one  Bartolouie  Belzar, 
comjdeted  the  rout  of  the  clamorous  hosts  of  Oraeguas, 
who  have  never  since,  to  this  day,  been  heard  of ;  for 
Uric  lost  his  life  afterwards  at  the  hands  of  a  tyrant 
who  ruled  the  colony  in  his  absence,  as  we  shall  see 
jiresLntly  ;  and  the  country  remains  still  a  perfect 
terra  iiico<jnita,  although  several  attempts  were  made 
subsequently  from  Peru  and  Quito  to  lind  that  mys- 
terious land. 

Convinced  that,  with  the  small  force  at  his  dis- 
posal, it  would  have  been  more  than  rashness  to  un- 
dertake the  conquest  of  a  city  which,  on  so  short  a 
notice,  could  raise  fifteen  thousand  warriors,  Urre  de- 
termined— so  soon  as  his  wound  permitted  him  to 
mount  his  horse — to  return  to  Macatoa,  and  hence  to 
La  Fragua,  which  he  reached  after  an  absence  of  three 
months.  Great  was  the  joy  in  the  invalid  camp  of 
the  Spaniards,  on  the  return  of  their  friends  ;  but 
greater  still,  at  the  good  tidings  they  brought  of  hav- 
ing found  the  long-sought-for  realms  of  El  Dorado  ; 
for  they  had  not  the  least  doubt  in  their  minds  that 
such  was  the  country  of  the  powerful  nation  whose 
great  city  they  had  looked  on  with  anxious  eyes,  but 
dared  not  enter. 

It  is  a  singular  coincidence  that,  while  Gonzalo 
rizarro  was  engaged  about  this  time  in  his  ill-fated 
exploration  of  the  country  of  Canelos,  the  laud  of 
cinnamon-trees,  he  heard  from  the  Indians  of  Muchi- 
faro,  that  not  far  from  there — somewhat  in  the  dircc- 


420  TKAVKUS  AND   ADVENTURES. 

tion  of  Fi'lipe  dc  Urre's  discoveries — a  great  Sire,  most 
opulent  ill  subjects  ftnd  riches,  and  whose  name  was 
Oineguas,  or  Omaguas,  liad  his  reahns  ;  Pizarro  sent  in 
conse<|uonce  his  kinsm;in  and  confidential  friend,  Fran- 
cisco Oiellann,  to  explore  that  region,  with  fifty  men, 
who  were  launched  upon  the  swift  current  of  the  river 
Napo  in  a  frail  barge,  constructed  in  the  wildenuss, 
of  very  rude  materials.  But  Orellana,  probably  dis- 
gnsted  by  this  time  with  the  sufferings  already  en- 
dured, instenil  of  searching  for  the  "  rich  and  fruitful 
land  abounding  with  gold,'"  abandoned  himself  and 
his  companions  to  the  current  of  the  stream — one  of 
the  greatest  tributaries  of  the  mighty  Anmzon — and 
once  on  the  bosom  of  the  Father  of  Waters,  sought 
the  broad  Atlantic,  which  he  reached  in  safety  after  a 
run  of  two  thousand  miles,  "  But  it  is  marvellous," 
Prescott  says,  *'  that  he  should  escape  shipwreck  in 
the  perilous  and  unknown  navigation  of  that  river, 
^lany  times  his  vessel  was  nearly  daslicd  to  pieces,  on 
its  rocks  and  in  its  furious  rajtids  ;  and  he  was  in  still 
greater  peril  from  the  warlike  tribes  on  its  bi>rilers, 
who  fell  on  his  little  troop  whenever  he  attempteil  to 
laiul,  and  followed  in  his  wake  for  miles  in  their 
canoes.'  ^ 

The  sufferings  endured  by  Pixiirro  at;d  his  men  on 
this  occasion,  remind  us  of  the  misemble  condition  of 
Jorge  de  Spini  and  Felipe  de  Urrc  on  their  rt^trogradc 
march  to  Coro.  *'  Every  scraj)  of  provisions  had  Ix-en 
long  since  consumed.     The  last   of  their  h<«r^cs  had 

•  Conqticat  of  Porii,  thI.  ii.,  p.  164. 


Till-:   LAND   OF    EL   DORADO.  421 

bc^ii  (Icvouret,!.  To  appease  the  gnawings  of  hun- 
ger, they  were  fain  to  eat  the  leather  of  their  saddles 
and  belts.  The  woods  supplied  them  with  scanty 
sustenance,  and  they  greedily  fed  upon  toads,  serpents, 
and  such  other  reptiles  as  they  occasionally  found." 

But  to  return  to  the  way-worn  company  under  the 
German  leader,  Urre,  whom  we  left  in  rather  a  bad 
plight  at  their  haven  of  La  Fragua.  After  a  delib- 
erate consultation  among  the  principal  captains  of  the 
band,  it  was  unanimously  resolved  to  send  to  Coro  for 
reinforcements,  and  Pedro  de  Limpias  having  offered 
his  services  to  that  effect,  he  was  despatched  forth- 
with by  Felipe  de  Urre  with  a  good  portion  of  his 
force  as  an  escort  ;  but  suspecting,  soon  after,  some 
evil  intentions  on  the  j)art  of  his  lieutenant,  who  was 
always  at  loggerheads  with  the  German  clement  of  the 
troop,  the  Commander  followed  him  soon  after,  with 
the  rest  of  the  men. 

Subsequent  events  proved  that  the  apprehensions 
of  the  gallant  German  were  not  unfounded ;  for  on 
his  ai)proach  to  the  settlements  of  the  colony,  he 
learned  that  the  government  thereof  had  passed  into 
the  hands  of  an  usurper,  a  crafty  lawyer,  named 
Carvajal,  llelator  or  Recorder  of  the  Audiencia  of  San 
Domingo,  who,  by  forgery  of  despatches  from  that 
body,  had  managed  to  appoint  himself  Governor,  in 
the  absence  of  the  lawful  incumbent  of  the  post. 
Felipe  de  Urre  was,  moreover,  warned  by  his  friends 
of  the  machinations  of  his  lieutenant,  who,  instead 
of  demanding  the  requisite  contingent  of  men  and 
horses  to   prosecute  his   conquests,  was  plotting  his 


4^2  TKAVELS   AM)   ADVENTURES. 

dcHtructiun,  and  that  of  his  countrymen,  with  the  wiiy 
Carvajul.  This  iudiviilual,  whom  all  accounts  repre- 
sent us  an  unscrupulous  tyrant  and  most  accompH>>hed 
hypocrite,  succeeded,  nevertheless,  in  disarming  Urro 
and  liis  adherents,  all  uf  whom  he  had  the  effrontery 
to  put  to  death,  on  some  specious  pretext  concocted 
hctwcen  himself  and  the  spiteful  Pedro  de  Limpias. 

Tlius  fell  one  of  the  hravest  j)ioneer8  of  South 
America,  and  a  most  disinterested  champion  of  its 
early  colonization.  *'Nouc  of  the  chieftains,"  says 
Oviedo,  '*  of  the  many  that  warred  in  the  Indies, 
stained  his  sword  with  blood  less  than  he  ;  for,  having 
overrun  more  ]>rovinces  than  any  one  else  in  his  ])ro- 
tnictcd  journey  of  four  years'  diimtion,  his  moderation 
was  imjH."lled  to  war  only  wlu-n  he  fuunil  no  oilier 
meanii  to  obtain  peace.'' 

But  the  tyrannical  rule  of  his  murderer,  Carvajal, 
was  only  of  short  duration  ;  for  about  this  time  the 
Emperor  Charles  the  Fifth,  cognizant  of  the  excesses 
j)ractised  against  the  unhappy  aborigines — through 
the  representations  of  their  zealous  defender,  the  cele- 
brated Father  Las  Casas— and  the  dejdorable  state 
into  which  the  country  had  fallen  under  the  bad  man- 
agement of  the  CJerman  company,  annulled  the  charter 
granted  to  the  latter,  and  sent  an  eniinent  jurist,  the 
Licentiate  dc  Tolosa,  with  full  powers  to  regulate  tho 
aflfairs  of  the  colony  as  Governor  and  Captain-General 
thereof.  On  his  arrival  at  Coro,  Tolosa  was  soon 
posted  in  regard  to  the  conduct  of  the  usurper  Carva- 
jal,  who,  for  greater  security,  kept  himself  at  a  dis- 
tance from   the  sea-coa^t,  in  the  n«'w  settlement  of 


TUE   LAND  OF   EL   DORADO.  423 

Tocuyo,  far  away  in  the  interior.  The  CaptJiin-Gen- 
eral  managed  things  so  well,  however,  that  he  con- 
trived to  pounce  upon  the  wretch,  one  night,  when 
least  expected ;  and  having  tried,  and  found  him 
guiltv  of  the  crimes  imputed  to  him,  he  sentenced 
him  to  be  hanged — after  being  dragged  on  a  hide 
through  the  streets  of  the  town — from  the  same  tree, 
a  splendid  Ceiba,  or  silk-cotton  tree,  in  the  centre  of 
the  plaza,  which  the  tyrant  had  i)olluted  with  his 
numberless  atrocities,  making  use  of  it  as  a  gibbet 
during  his  executions. 

We  shall  not  follow  tlie  other  conquerors  in  their 
restless  search  for  El  Dorado,  now  in  one  direction, 
now  in  an  opposite  quarter,  until  it  was  brouglit 
within  the  embrace  of  the  mighty  Orinoco,  where 
Raleigh's  last  adventure  was  terminated  by  his  unsuc- 
cessful atrack  upon  Santo  Tome  de  la  Angostura, 
the  present  Ciudad  Bolivar,  where  we  must  resume 
our  journey. 

Although  the  river  has  been  well  known  for  the 
last  three  hundred  years,  the  country  within  its 
boundaries,  properly  called  Guayana,  has  remained 
comparatively  ignored  by  the  outside  world  until  these 
latter  years.  A  few  settlements  along  its  southern 
shore,  and  these  principally  controlled  by  priestly  ex- 
clusiveness,  was  all  the  advancement  that  had  been 
made  there  up  to  the  destruction  of  the  missions  by 
the  wMr  of  independence.  Since  then  the  country  had 
nearly  returned  to  its  primeval  state  of  savageness, 
when  the  "gold  fever,"  that  most  potent  excitant 


424  TFtAVKI-S   AND   ADVEXTLRES. 

of  all  (listi'inpors,  nrouscd  the  Ictlmrfjic  aj»athy  of  the 
inlmltitanlH,  nud  now  bids  fair  to  coinimmicate  itBt-If 
to  jwoplc  of  keener  sensibilities. 

It  is  possible  that  the  missionary  fathers,  who  had 
for  a  lonjij  time  entire  control  of  the  scattered  villages 
sontli  of  the  Orinoco,  were  well  infornunl  respecting 
the  existence  of  the  g<»ld  fulds  which  are  being 
bronght  to  light  jtist  now  ;  but  the  fraiJcs — ail  of 
them  European  S[»aniards,  and  consequently  strong 
supi)orter8  of  their  cause — were  wantonly  massacred 
by  s<ime  statf  officers  of  General  Bolivar,  and  not  one 
of  them  left  to  reveal  the  source  of  their  reputed 
wealth.  And,  what  is  most  singular,  the  learnetl  Hum- 
boldt, who  exjil<»red  the  Orinoco  in  nearly  its  whole 
course,  devotes  an  entire  chai)ttr  to  prove  the  non- 
existence of  gold  in  (iuayana,  especially  on  the  spot 
where  it  has  been  found  in  the  greatest  abimdance  ; 
although,  with  his  characteristic  reserve  and  far-see- 
ing perspicuity,  he  concludes  with  these  words  : 

"  Thougli  the  celebrity  of  the  liches  of  Spanish 
Guiana  is  chiefly  assignable  to  the  ge«igmi>hioal  situ- 
ation of  the  country  and  the  errors  of  the  old  maps,  we 
are  not  justified  in  denying  the  existence  of  anyaurif- 
cnjus  land  in  the  tract  of  country  of  82,000  sqtiaa' 
leagues  (250,000  square  miles),  which  stretches  be- 
tween the  Orinoco  and  the  Amazon,  on  the  cast  of 
the  Andes  of  Quito  and  New  Granada.  What  I  saw 
of  this  country  between  the  second  and  eighth  degrees 
of  longitude,  is  entinly  composed  of  granite,  and  of  a 
gneiss  pa.s8ing  into  micaceous  and  talcous  slate.    These 


TIIK   LAND   OF   KL    DORADO.  405 

rocks  appear  naked  in  tlie  lofty  mountains  of  Parima, 
as  well  as  in  the  jtlains  of  the  Atabapo  and  the  Casi- 
qniare.  Granite  predominates  there  over  the  other 
rocks  :  and  though  in  both  continents,  the  granite  of 
ancient  formation  is  pretty  generally  destitute  of  gold 
ore,  we  cannot  hence  conclude  that  the  granite  of 
Parima  contains  no  vein,  no  stratum  of  auriferous 
quartz." 

The  error  of  the  great  traveller  in  this  respect  is 
assignable  to  the  fact  that  he  never  left  the  bed  of  the 
Orinoco,  which  is  bordered,  as  he  states,  by  ledges  of 
primitive  formation.  The  auriferous  deposits  of  the 
State  of  Guayana  are  found  in  a  range  of  mountains, 
Laving  a  general  course  north-east  and  south-west, 
about  a  hundred  miles  south  of  the  Orinoco  river, 
precisely  where  Sir  Walter  Raleigh  placed  his  El  Do- 
rado dc  la  Farimc. 

Through  the  courtesy  of  J.  B.  Austin,  Esq.,  of 
Philadelphia — a  gentleman  of  refined  cultivation  and 
thorough  American  energy,  who  has  lately  returned 
from  that  region — I  am  enabled  to  place  before  my 
readers  the  subjoined  letter,  containing  an  accurate 
statement  concerning  the  so-called  '*  fabulous  "  realms 
of  El  Dorado,*  as  they  now  are  : 

"  The  streams  having  their  sources  in  these  moun- 

All  fables  have  some  real  foundation ;  that  of  El  Dorado  rcscm- 
b'cs  thosic  myths  of  antiiiuity  wliich,  travelling  from  country  to  country, 
have  been  .successively  adapted  to  different  localities. " — Jlmnboldt, 
vol.  iii.,  p.  26,  BohtCi  Edition. 


^26  TKAVKLS    AND    ADVKNTUKHS. 

tainn,  gonerally  flow  into  the  Cuyiiui  and  Mii8«riiny 
rivers,  tribiitaricH  of  the  Esctiuibo,  though  BJUie  run 
into  the  Caroni,  one  of  the  great  tributaries  of  the 
Orinoco.  As  these  gold  deposits  are  approachetl,  the 
geological  features  of  the  country  undergo  an  impor- 
tant change.  Quartz  appears  in  immense  quantities, 
running  in  bi-oad  veins  thnaigh  the  savannas,  or 
thickly  distributed  over  great  extents.  This  is  often 
auriferous  to  a  slight  degree.  South  of  the  Yuruary 
river  the  system  of  plains  is  left  behind,  and  here  are 
ranges  of  hills  and  mountains  covered  with  dense, 
gloomy,  troj)ical  forests,  and  intersected  witii  numer- 
ous streams  and  rivers.  The  principal  formation,  or 
*  country  rock,'  is  highly  metamorphosed  talcose  and 
chloritic  slates,  broken  often  by  upheavals  of  granite, 
and  traversed  by  veins  and  ledges  of  (piartz,  from 
thirty  inches  to  ninety  feet  wide.  All  this  is  aurif- 
erous, free  gt)ld  in  quartz,  and  of  a  richness  incredible, 
until  seen  and  explored.  The  earth,  rocks,  and  beds 
of  streams  all  yield  gold  in  the  greatest  profusion, 
and  over  ten  thousand  men  are  now  at  work  there 
without  any  scientitic  direction,  and  with  the  poorest 
appliances  for  labor,  but  all  doing  well,  many  accu- 
nuilating  large  sums  of  money.  Kvery  part  of  their 
labor  is  by  hand,  and  their  tools  and  implements  of 
the  most  onlinary  character. 

"  Here  is  timber  sutHcient  for  ages  of  consumption  ; 
abundant  supplies  of  water  ;  a  quiet,  onlerly  people  ; 
gooil  government,  and  deposits  of  gold  ajiparently  in- 
exhaustible. It  seems  strange  that  such  a  countr}' 
has  remained  so  far  hiildcn  for  such  a  length  of  time. 


THE  LAND  OF   EL  DORADO.  427 

It  was  known  to  the  al)orii;incs,  for  we  find  their  old 
pits,  iiui)leuieiits  and  pottery.  Even  as  late  as  the 
time  of  Sir  Walter  llalei>i;h  it  was  known  to  the 
Indians,  and  that  gallant  leader  made  four  attempts 
to  penetrate  its  fastnesses,  but  each  time  was 
driven  Lack  by  the  Spaniards.  Evidently  it  was 
known  to  the  Capuchin  fathers,  who  colonized  and 
christianized  that  section  of  South  America ;  but 
by  them  it  was  held  as  a  great  secret,  and  upon 
their  overthrow  and  massacre,  in  1815,  the  trace 
was  lost,  until  accidentally  discovered  again  a  few 
years  since. 

"  It  is  a  remarkable  fact  also,  that  the  State  of 
Guayana,  since  the  date  of  its  independence  from 
Spain  in  1812,  has  remained  free  from  those  internal 
dissensions  and  strifes  so  common  in  South  American 
states.  Its  inhabitants  are  orderly,  honest,  and  in- 
dustrious ;  their  pursuits  jjastoral  and  agricultural, 
and  its  rulers  men  of  great  political  ability  and  en- 
larged liberal  views. 

"  The  climate  of  the  State  is  salubrious,  and  the 
communications  with  the  mines  good  ;  wagons  can 
pass  from  the  river  to  them  in  five  days,  and  steamers 
run  every  fortnight  from  the  river  to  England  and 
France  in  eighteen  days,  and  niunthly  to  New  York 
in  twelve  days. 

"  In  a  scientific  point  of  view  the  country  is  most 
interesting.  It  is  emphatically  an  unexplored  field  ; 
its  geology,  natural  history,  and  botany,  almost  un- 
known ;  pictorially  it  is  very  beautiful  ;  protection  to 
life  and  pro})erty  absolutely  safe  ;  and  though  some- 


428  TKAVK1>:   AND   Al'VKNTURES. 

what  roiij^h  in  its  accommodfttions,  still  most  interest- 
ing to  the  1 1  livelier. 

*'  With  such  unbouniled  sources  of  wealth  within 
its  borders,  so  wccessiblu  to  the  great  centres  of  com- 
merce, and  under  such  an  eidighteiicd  administration 
of  jiublic  aftairs,  it  recjuires  no  gift  of  pn^phecy  to 
foresee  the  rapidity  of  development  now  opening  for 
the  great  and  prosjK'ruus  State  of  (Juayana. 

"  The  scenery  throughout  the  canton  of  UpatA 
partakes  more  of  the  pastoral  character,  its  most 
marked  feature  being  quiet  beauty.  There  are  places, 
such  as  the  site  of  the  mission  of  Santa  Maria,  the 
approach  to  the  Yuruary  from  Guacipati,  the  great 
palm  forests  near  Palmar,  and  the  mountain  range 
of  Nuri,  which  are  grand,  even  sublime  ;  but  generally 
the  scene  is  more  park-like,  the  mountain  forms  quiet, 
the  savannas  sweeping  oil'  in  long  swells,  witli  trees 
scattered  over  them  singly,  in  groups,  or  groves,  seem- 
ingly as  if  planted  by  man  for  pictorial  effect.  The 
valleys  are  fertile  and  luxuriant — all  the  produc- 
tions of  the  tropical  Kone  maturing  almost  without 
labor  ;  the  savannas  furnish  rich  pasturage  for  tens 
of  thousands  of  cattle — the  forests  are  pn>lilic  in  woods 
of  the  greatest  value — the  streams  rapid,  and  their 
water  gocnl. 

"  The  auriferous  deposits  beyond  the  Yuruary  have 
been  traced  from  that  river  through  to  the  Ventuari, 
alnnit  four  hundred  miles  ;  not,  for  all  this  distance, 
by  continuous  exploration,  but  in  detached  elToits. 
penetrating  from  the  Orinoco  at  various  |X)ints,  and 
always  striking  the  same  general  system  of  veins." 


THE   LAND   OK   KL   DOUADO.  429 

As  I  understand  that  I\Ir.  Austin  is  cnj^.igcd  in 
writinii;  a  Look  on  this  important  subject,  I  abstain 
from  further  comments  in  the  matter,  convinced  as  I 
am,  that  no  one  is  better  calcuhited  than  himself  to 
enlighten  his  countrymen  respecting  a  region  emi- 
nently adapted  to  the  enterprising  energy  of  the 
Anglo-Saxon  race. 

"  Sou  arbolos  y  picdras  iin  tesoro, 
Los  moiites  plata  y  las  arenas  oro." 

Baualt,  Oda  d  Colon. 

In  its  trees  and  its  stones  are  treasures  untold, 
Its  mouutains  arc  silver,  its  sands  are  of  gold. 


KoTE. — According  to  the  official  returns  of  the  State  of  Guayana 
which  I  have  before  mo,  the  exports  of  gold  through  the  Custom- 
house of  Ciudad  Bolivar  for  the  months  of  April  and  May,  1867, 
amounted  to  $158,815.00. 

By  Steamer  Pioneer,  1194  ounces,  or  |28.56S.OO 

"         1800       "         "     43.200.00 

"  Bark  Roscdale      3C27       "        "     87.032.00 


CG20  $loS.S00.00 

This  much  without  taking  into  consideration  the  vast  amounts 
which  are  carried  away  by  private  individuals,  without  passing 
tlirough  the  Custom-house  to  avoid  tlie  export  duty  levied  on  gold  by 
the  Vcnezucliaa  government. 


C'lIAl'TKK  XXVII. 

THE    OIL-WELLS    uF    TUK    ORINOCO. 

I  FKAU  that  the  description  of  the  land  of  El  Dunulo 
lios  already  been  extended  beyond  the  limits  assigned 
to  that  chapter ;  otherwise  we  n)ight  continne  our 
voyage  down  the  noble  river,  and  visit  other  |K)ints  of 
attraction  along  its  course  ;  such  as  the  falls  of  the 
Car(»ni,  three  miles  above  its  confluence  with  the 
Orinoco.  On  its  margins  grows  the  l>eautiful  Bum- 
plaudia  iri/oliata,  which  yields  the  Angostura-hark  of 
the  pharmacopoea — next  to  quinine,  the  most  eflica- 
cious  antidote  against  the  miasmas  of  these  regions.  It 
also  furnishes  the  principal  ingredient  in  the  compo- 
sition of  the  fine  bitters  manufactured  there  under 
that  name.  By  descending  the  river  still  fartlur,  we 
might  enter  any  of  the  thousand  channels  into  which  the 
Orinoco  divides  itself  before  it  empties  into  the  Athintic 
Ocean,  and  there  take  a  look  at  the  curious  race  of 
men — the  Waraun  Indians — living  on  trees  like  apes, 
for  want  of  dry  land  upon  which  to  stretch  their 
limbs  ;  or  in  rude  liuts  built  on  piles  driven  in  the  sofl 
mud  of  the  Great  Delta.     But  as  the  time  draws  near 


TIIK   OIL-WELLS   OF   THE   OIUXOCO.  431 

for  our  departure  from  the  Llanos,  anil  the  rivers  com- 
mence to  overflow  the  plains,  we  will  reascend  the 
Orinoco  and  rejoin  our  friends,  who  await  us  impa- 
tiently on  the  banks  of  the  Apure  ;  or  else  we  might 
find  ourselves,  like  Spira  and  his  companions,  cut  oflf 
from  the  rest  of  civilization.  AVe  shall  also  miss  the 
curious  harvest — cosccha — of  turtles'  eggs,  which 
is  gathered  about  this  time  upon  the  sand-islands  of 
the  Orinoco,  just  above  the  mouth  of  the  A])ure. 
Here  the  great  turtles  called  arraus  by  the  Indians, 
and  tortugas  by  the  whites,  assemble  in  vast  multi- 
tudes during  the  dry  season  to  perfect  the  incubation 
of  their  eggs.  This  they  accomplish  by  digging  pits 
in  the  sand  with  their  hind  feet,  in  which  they  deposit 
the  eggs,  covering  them  afterwards  very  carefully,  and 
entrusting  the  rest  of  the  operation  to  the  heat  of  the 
sun.  The  ])eoi)le  from  far  and  near  this  el  dorado  of 
eggs  and  turtles,  then  hasten  to  these  sand-banks,  and 
provision  themselves  for  "  a  rainy  day  "  at  the  expense 
of  the  lawful  tenants  of  those  islands. 

Other  travellers  having  already  studied  the  habits  of 
these  amphibia  in  their  native  habitat,  we  may  avail 
ourselves  of  their  experience  in  forming  some  idea  of 
their  prodigious  increase,  in  spite  of  their  sluggi.sh 
habits.  I  may  mention,  among  others,  IlumboUlt  and 
Bate<,  who  have  given  to  the  world  very  graphic  ac- 
counts of  this  singular  "harvest,"  the  former  on  the 
Orinoco,*  and  the  latter  on  the  Amazon  river. f     But 

•  Travels  to  tlio  Eiiuinoctial  Regions, 
f  The  Xatmulist  on  tlie  Amazon. 


432  TRAVKI-S  AND  AUVKNTUKHS. 

the  most  iiiterestin<;  uccount  within  my  knowl"dge  is 
that  i)f  Father  GumiUn,  wlju.  having  spent  nmny  years 
among  these  wilds,  is  entitled  to  s])ecial  attention  on 
the  part  of  the  lovers  of  nature.  As  hia  book  is  very 
nire  and  curious  nowiulays,  I  will,  for  the  benefit  of 
uiy  readers,  give  here  a  tninslatiou  of  the  chapter  de- 
voted to  the  subject  : 

"Ok    TIIK    KXTnAOUMSAKY     HAUVEST     (Cosiclta)    OF 
TL'UTLKS    GATHERED      BY     THE     IXDIANS      OF      THE 
OllINOCO  ;    THEIR     EGGS,    AND   OF     TIIK      IKi  I  I  I  AH 
OIL  OBTAINED  FROM  TUEM. 

"So  great  is  the  number  of  turtles  in  the  Orinoco 
river,  that  whatever  1  may  say  on  tliis  subject  will  fall 
far  short  of  the  actual  truth  ;  and  I  even  fear  that 
many,  in  reading  my  authentic  acc(»unt  of  what  I  myself 
have  repeatedly  seen,  cxiwrienced,  and  touched  with 
my  own  hands,  will  accuse  n)e  of  exaggeration  ;  but 
it  is  a  fact  that  it  would  be  as  diflicult  to  count  the 
sands  of  the  extensive  banks  of  the  Orinoco,  as  to 
compute  the  immense  number  of  turtles  which  it  har- 
bors on  its  borders  and  in  the  depths  of  its  currents. 

"  Some  idea  may  be  formed  of  the  enormous  con- 
sumption of  these  creatures,  when  wc  say  that  all  the 
tribes  and  people  of  adjacent  countries,  and  even  from 
those  farther  off,  frequent  the  Orinoco  with  their  fam- 
ilies to  secure  what  I  termed  the  harvest  of  turtles ; 
for  they  not  only  maintain  themselves  therewith  during 
the  months  that  it  lasts,  but  also  carry  away  a  large 
supply  of  turtle-meat,  dried  by  lire,  and  a  still  greater 


Till':  UlL-WKLLS  OF  THE  OULNOCO.  403 

luuiibor  of  baskets  of  eggs,  tlricil  also  by  the  same 
means.  But  what  principally  attracts  the  people  of 
these  tribes  is  the  oil  which  they  gather  from  the  eggs  of 
said  turtles,  in  large  quantities,  to  anoint  themselves 
throughout  the  year  twice  every  day,  and  to  sell  to  the 
more  remote  tribes  who  cannot,  or  through  fear  dare 
not,  go  down  the  river  Orinoco. 

"  As  soon  as  the  river  begins  to  lull  and  to  display 
its  first  sandbanks  in  the  month  of  February,  the  tur- 
tles commence  to  show  themselves,  in  order  to  deposit 
their  eggs  in  the  sand  ;  those  which  appear  first 
are  the  small  turtles  called  tereccnjas,  weighing 
scarce  an  arroha  of  twenty-five  pounds  ;  these  lay 
twenty-two  and  sometimes  twenty-four  eggs,  like  hen's 
eggs,  but  without  the  shell,  instead  of  which  they  are 
covered  by  two  membranes,  one  soft  and  the  other 
thicker.  With  these  terecayas  other  turtle  also  appear, 
who,  in  the  previous  year,  found  no  sand  in  which  to 
deposit  their  eggs,  or  were  prevented  from  so  doing  by 
the  great  number  assembled  there.  These  large  tur- 
tles, which,  when  three  years  old,  weigh  two  arrohas 
— as  I  have  j)roved  by  the  scales — deposit  sixty-two, 
and  ordinarily,  sixty-four  round  eggs  each,  larger  than 
those  of  the  icrecayas,  with  stronger  membrane,  and 
with  which  the  Indians  play  ball  on  shore,  or  egg  each 
other  in  sport.  In  each  nest  of  eggs  there  is  one  larger 
than  the  rest,  from  which  the  male  is  hatched  ;  all  the 
others  are  females.  About  this  time  the  Indians,  of 
various  tribes,  commence  to  arrive  from  all  points  of 
the  adjacent  countries  :  some  of  them  build  their 
straw  huts  ;  others  content  themselves  by  driving  poles 
19 


434  TUAVKI-S  AND  ADVENTURES. 

in  the  Prtnd,  from  wliich  to  swing  tlnir  linninKcks.  A 
inultitiidu  of  timers  al^o  a}>|ii'ar  t»)  turn  \i\>  the  turtle-, 
wliich  tliey  ilevnur  in  spile  of  their  stronj;  euirasii  ;  > 
circninstunce  which  by  no  means  adds  to  the  pleasui'- 
and  hatihfaction  that  the  Indians  derive  from  their  ex- 
cursion to  the  Orinoco,  since,  in  spite  of  all  their  can-, 
scarcely  a  year  passes  in  which  the  tigers  do  not  devour 
souj"  of  the  poor  Iiuiians,  wlio  have  no  other  lutnle  of 
keeping  ihein  otfat  night  tlian  by  tires,  which,  k»  Idh.: 
as  tlu-y  burn,  keep  thi^  beasts  at  a  di.-tance. 

"  Fearing  the  heat  of  the  Miu — wliich  often  kills 
them  on  the  sand-banks — the  turtles  at  lirst  come  out 
only  at  nightfall  to  lay  their  eggs;  but,  as  the  seasoD 
advances,  the  gathering  is  so  great,  that  the  multi- 
tudes already  out  prevent  the  ])assage  of  still  greater 
numbers,  which,  with  heads  above  water,  are  waiting 
ft  chance  to  pass  on  ;  and  so  soon  as  an  opjxirtuni'T 
presents  itself,  they  hasten  to  lay  all  their  eggs  at  on.  • 
— the  burthen  of  which  they  cannot  support  wiih.-u; 
great  inconvenience, — regardless  of  the  sun  ami  li»af, 
which  often  costs  many  of  them  their  lives. 

*'l  have  n<»ticed  tlnee  curious  liictswiih  referenr«e 
to  these  turtle-nests  :  the  first  is,  that  alter  opening 
with  the  utmost  care  the  holes  in  which  these  animals 
deposit  their  eggs,  they  take  particular  pains  to  cl«>se 
them  again,  so  as  not  to  have  a  trace  by  which  the 
nest  may  bo  found.  For  this  purpose  they  leave  ihe 
ground  perfectly  even  with  the  rest  of  the  wind-bank  ; 
and  in  order  that  the  matks  of  their  tret  U)iiy  »u»t 
lead  to  their  discovery,  they  pass  over  and  aronii.l  the 
nest  several  times   in  succession  belbre  they  quit  the 


THE  OIL-WELLS  OF  TUK  OKINOCO.  435 

irronnd.  All  their  precautions  arc  in  vain,  however, 
for  wherever  there  are  e^rgs,  the  sand  remains  quite 
loose,  and  «rives  way  under  loot  ;  and  hy  these  means 
the  e^gs  are  found  in  the  early  part  of  the  season  ;  but 
later,  in  the  height  of  the  harvest,  there  is  no  need  of 
looking  for  these  signs  ;  for,  in  the  same  sands  in  which 
the  first  turtles  laid,  the  second,  third,  and  scores  of 
others  also  lay  their  eggs  in  such  prodigious  quanti- 
ties, that  wherever  the  Indians  may  dig,  they  find  them 
in  heaps,  the  animals  themselves  scattering  them  all 
over  the  ground  while  excavating  their  own  nests. 

'•  The  second  curious  fact  that  I  have  observed,  by 
driving  a  pole  near  to  a  newly-laid  nest,  is,  that  in 
three  days'  time,  the  incubation  of  the  eggs  is  not  only 
perfected,  but  the  young  turtles  have  broken  through 
the  shell  ;  so  great  is  the  power  of  the  sun  and  the  in- 
tensity of  the  heat  absorbed  by  the  sand. 

"  The  third  point  noted  by  me  is,  that  the  young 
turtles,  on  coming  out  of  the  shell — at  which  time 
they  are  about  the  size  of  a  half  dollar, — do  not  leave 
the  nest  by  daylight,  nature  having  taught  them  that 
the  heat  of  the  sun  will  kill  them,  and  the  birds  of 
prey  will  devour  them.  They  come  forth,  therefore, 
in  the  silence  and  cool  of  the  night  ;  and  what  has 
most  excited  my  admiration  is,  that  although  the  hole 
from  which  they  emerge  may  be  half  a  mile  or  more 
from  the  river,  they  never  mistake  the  road,  but  go  in 
a  direct  line  to  the  water.  This  pleased  me  so  much, 
that  I  have  repeatedly  taki'n  the  turtles  a  great  dis- 
tance from  the  river,  carrying  them  covered,  and  turn- 
ing them  around  over  and  over  again  on  the  ground,  in 


4:30  TKAVKLS   AND   ADVENTUUES. 

onlor  to  make  tlu'in  lose  tlu'ir  course  ;  but  whenever 
tlu-y  louiul  theinst'lvos  free,  they  made  .^traij^ht  for  the 
water,  and  I  following  them,  admiring  the  wonderful 
goodnesa  of  the  Creator,  who  thus  endows  each  of  his 
creatures  with  powers  to  find  its  natural  element. 
What  a  lesson  to  us,  who,  in  spite  of  the  hope  of  eter- 
nal reward  and  the  danger  of  everlasting  punishment, 
scarce  succeed  in  taking  the  right  path  for  that  ulti- 
mate goal  for  which  the  goodness  and  mercy  of  God 
created  us  ! 

"About  this  time  the  Indians,  both  men  and 
women,  rise  very  early,  and  the  former  turn  over  as 
many  turtles  as  they  please,  leaving  them  on  their 
backs  in  such  a  way  as  to  render  them  incapable  of 
resuming  their  natural  position  ;  for  although  they 
strive  with  their  paddles  to  right  themselves,  their 
back  is  so  high  that  they  cannot  touch  the  ground  in 
order  to  obtain  a  foothold.  They  are  then  carried  by 
their  captors  to  the  ranches,  where  they  are  made  fast 
by  leaving  them  on  their  backs,  as  oforcsaid.  Mean- 
while the  women  and  children  occupy  themselves  in 
filling  and  carrying  baskets  of  eggs  and  little  turtles 
to  the  ranches,  making  large  heaps  of  the  former,  and 
keeping  the  latter  in  the  baskets  to  prevent  their 
escape  into  tho  river,  which  they  always  do  whenever 
they  can.  The  men  olso  dig  holes  in  the  sand  down 
to  the  level  of  the  river,  which  arc  quickly  filled  by  tli  ■ 
infiltration  of  the  water,  and  place  therein  large  num- 
bers of  baby-turtles,  to  be  eaten  as  wanted  ;  each  «'.' 
which  makes  a  delicious  mouthful,  free  from  bonis, 
the  very  shells  King  soft  and  tasty.    The  number 


i 


THE   OIL-WKLLS   OF   TIIK  ORINOCO.  437 

delicate  young  turtles  eaten  daily  by  the  innumerable 
families  congregated  there  is  incalculable.  But  the 
quantity  of  eggs  consumed  is  even  greater,  both  as 
food  and  for  the  extraction  of  oil ;  so  great,  indeed, 
that  notwithstanding  the  size  of  the  Orinoco  river,  it 
is  the  opinion  of  the  experts  of  that  country  that, 
were  it  not  for  this  extraordinary  consumption  of  tur- 
tles and  their  eggs,  the  increase  of  these  animals  in 
the  river  would  be  such  as  to  render  it  nnnavigable  ; 
for  boats  would  find  it  impossible  to  make  way 
through  the  immense  number  of  turtles  which  would 
appear  were  all  these  eggs  to  be  hatched  ;  in  which 
opinion  I  participate  also.  In  the  same  way,  it  is  sa;d 
that  on  the  fishing-banks  of  Newfoundland,  frequented 
by  so  many  vessels,  the  shoals  of  codfish  are  so  immense 
that  the  passage  of  vessels  is  seriously  embarrassed  and 
delayed.  It  is  also  asserted  that  each  fisherman  can 
catch  as  many  as  four  hundred  codfish  per  day. 

''Let  us  now  see  how  the  oil  is  extracted,  which, 
as  I  have  already  said,  is  the  chief  attraction  which 
brings  so  many  people  to  the  Orinoco.  After  wash- 
ing the  canoes  which  have  brought  them  there,  they 
draw  them  on  the  beach,  and  pour  several  pailsfull  of 
water  into  them  :  they  then  wash  the  eggs  in  baskets, 
until  not  a  grain  of  sand  remains  adhering  to  them, 
and  when  perfectly  clean,  they  are  emptied  into  the 
canoes  and  trod  upon  by  children  in  the  same  way  as 
grapes  are  mashed  in  wine-making.  Once  full,  the  ca- 
noes are  left  exposed  to  the  sun's  rays,  and  in  due  time 
a  fine  and  limi)id  liquid  rises  to  the  surface,  which  is 
the  oleaginous  portion   of  the  eggs  ;  so  abundant  is 


438  TllAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES. 

this,  tlmt  I  have  been  Biirprised  to  gee  a  frving-piin 
jiliiCL-il  dry  on  the  fire,  and  after  being  heated,  well 
beaten  eg«:8  poured  therein,  which,  on  touching  the  hut 
pan,  gave  forth  sufticienl  oil  to  fry  the  oineK  t,  wiili  a 
certaintv  tliat  it  never  sticks  to  the  pun. 

"  Whilst  the  heat  of  the  sun  is  extracting  tliis 
fine  oil,  tlie  Indian  women  ]»lace  large  pots  over  the 
firt', and  tlie  men  with  fine  shelU,  very  suitable  for  tho 
pnr|()so,  remove  tlie  oil  from  the  surface  of  the  mix- 
ture in  the  canoes,  and  carry  it  to  the  j)otJ»,  where  tin* 
licat  of  the  fire  buils  and  purifies  it.  If,  during  the 
operation  of  transferring  the  oil  any  of  the  beaten 
eggs  are  taken  along,  they  remain  fixed  in  the  bot- 
tom of  the  pots.  The  oil,  when  piirifie<l,  is  put  in 
suitiihlc  jars,  and  is  much  finer  and  clearer  than  that 
of  olives,  as  I  have  proven  to  many  Europeans,  who 
could  hardly  believe  it,  in  the  following  manner.  I 
filled  half  a  glass  with  olive-oil  ;  I  then  poured  in  a 
like  quantity  of  oil  from  the  eggs  of  turtles  ;  when,  hi  ! 
'  thev  C'Mumenced  to  change  positions  from  top  to  bot- 
tom, first  one  and  then  the  oilier,  gradu..lly  mixing 
together  in  the  miildle  until  they  finally  com- 
mingled, losing  their  natural  color  and  assuming  an 
alhuginous  aj)pearance  like  watered  milk  ;  the  mixture 
being  left  quiet  for  half  an  hour  or  more,  the  egg-oil 
commenced  to  rise  to  the  surface,  and  in  a  short  time 
remained  on  top  of  the  olive-f>il,  just  as  the  latter  floats 
on  the  surface  of  water,  both  resuming  their  natural 
color.      But  to  return  to  (tur  narrative. 

"  At  the  dinner  hour— although   they  are  all  tho 
while  eating  eggs  and  young  turtles,  just  for  the  fuQ 


TUL;  OIL-Wl'LLS  OF  Tilt;  ORINOCO.  439 

of  it — a  sin<;lo  animal  \\[\\  provide  tliroo  larj];e  and 
distinct  dishes,  ample  for  the  hvrgest  family  ;  a 
tnrtle,  split  on  both  sides,  furnishing  the  following  por- 
tions, viz. :  head  and  neck,  the  two  hind  legs,  and 
the  pectoral  jiaddles,  which  require  a  good-sized  pot  to 
liold  them.  Before  placing  them  in  it,  some  large 
lumps  of  tat  are  removed,  yellow  as  the  yolk  of  an 
eg.:  ;  and  this  is  another  source  of  gain,  which  the 
Indians  take  home  ;  and  as  the  turtle  which  gives  the 
least,  yields  two  pounds  of  this  fat,  the  ])rofit  is  con- 
siderable. The  pot  being  placed  on  the  fire,  the 
husband  takes  the  shell  which  forms  the  turtle's  back, 
and  the  wife  the  breast-plate;  and  after  carefully 
chopping  together  the  meat,  fat,  and  great  quantity 
of  eggs  which  still  adhere  to  the  shell,  the  latter  serve 
them  aspotsalsojwithout  theslightest  danger  of  burning. 
Before  the  mess  is  quite  cooked,  they  j)Ut  the  shells  on 
the  fireplaces,  and  make  their  first  dish,  the  gigote,  on 
the  breast-plate,  which  is  very  delicious  and  tender  ; 
and  even  the  breast-{»late  itself  is  sometimes  eaten,  as 
it  becomes  impregnated  with  the  fat,  and  is  quite  pal- 
atabl''.  The  second  dish  is  made  from  the  hash  pre- 
jiared  (in  the  shell  taken  from  the  turtle's  back.  This 
is  (piite  a  treat,  and  is  called  garaj?acho,  I  do  not 
know  why.  Finally,  the  third  di^h  is  the  olla,  or 
bouilli,  which  ends  the  me  il,  and  is  washed  down  with 
jd'-nty  of  chicJia,'^  which  they  take  good  care  to  pro- 
vide themselves  with  in  sufficient  quantity  for  the 
whole  season. 

•  A  liiiiJ  of  beer  made  from  Indian-corn. 


440  TKAVKLS  AND  ADVENTURES. 

"  One  wotiKl  scnrccly  believe  how  fat  the  children, 
anil  in  fact  the  whole  pack  of  them,  j;row  during  the 
peasiju  ;  but  no  wonder,  for  as  the  good  Father  Manuel 
Roman,  the  Superior  of  our  Orinoco  missions,  has  often 
assured  luo,  although  born  in  Olmedo,  and  grown  in 
Valladolid  and  Salamanca,  he  did  not  miss  the  fine 
mutton  of  those  jdaces  so  long  as  he  could  depend 
upon  the  turtles  of  the  Orinoco.  Other  Spanish 
jiriests  of  the  same  missions  expressed  themselves  in 
like  terms. 

**  The  gain  and  benefit  derived  from  these  turlh-s 
by  the  Indians  does  not  stop  here  ;  for,  besides  the  im- 
mense number  of  eggs  which  they  consume,  l>oth  as  f  xhI 
and  in  the  preparation  of  the  oil,  they  also  carry  away 
great  quantities  of  them,  dried  like  figs  in  the  sun  ; 
or  by  the  heat  of  slumbering  tires  made  underneath 
horizontal  trellises  raised  for  the  purpose.  The  nm(»unt 
of  eggs  thus  purloined  can  easily  be  imagined  from  the 
fact,  that  these  people  will  readily  give  in  exchange 
for  a  knife  four  baskctfuls  of  them,  each  of  which 
contains  at  least  one  thousand  eggs.  They  also  carry 
away  as  many  turtles  as  they  can  conveniently  stow 
in  the  canoes,  without  danger  of  sinking,  tying  them 
securely  therein  to  prevent  their  escape. 

*' Of  this  species  of  turtle,  what  most  excited  my 
surprise  was  the  immense  number  of  eggs  which  each 
of  them  has  within  itself ;  for,  besides  the  roe  ready 
to  be  laid  this  year,  farther  in  they  have  the  one  for 
the  next  season,  of  nearly  the  same  size  as  the  former, 
but  destitute  of  that  covering  or  white  membrane  which 
envelops  the  eggs  ;  then  follow  those  for  the  thinl  year. 


THE  OIL  WKLLS  OF  TUE  ORINOCO.  44I 

about  the  size  of  musket-balls  ;  for  the  fourth  year,  of 
the  calibre  for  a  fowling-piece  ;  for  the  fifth  year,  they 
rire  no  bigger  than  buckshot  ;  and  at  this  rate  they 
decrease  until  they  present  a  confused  mass  resembling 
turnip  and  mustard-seed  ;  and  God  only  knows  for 
how  many  years  those  creatures  are  endowed  with 
similar  receptacles  of  life  in  embryo." 

This  much  was  observed  and  related  concerning 
the  turtles  of  Orinoco  by  the  reverend  missionary 
father  in  the  early  part  of  the  seventeenth  century: 
let  us  now  hear  what  the  great  philosopher  of  modern 
times  says  in  regard  to  these  humble  creatures  ;  for  he, 
too,  spent  several  days  among  the  children  of  nature 
during  the  "harvest"  of  eggs  and  turtles  provided  for 
them  by  their  beneficent  mother. 

"  I  acquired  some  general  statistical  notions  on  the 
spot,  by  consulting  the  missionary  of  Urvana,  his 
lieutenant,  and  the  traders  of  Angostura.  The  shore 
of  Urvana  furnishes  one  thousand  botijas,  or  jars  of 
oil  annually.  The  price  of  each  jar  at  Angostura  va- 
ries from  two  piastres  to  two  and  a  half.  We  may 
admit  that  the  total  produce  of  the  three  shores,  where 
the  cosecha,  or  gathering  of  eggs,  is  annually  made,  is 
five  thousand  botijas.  Now,  as  two  hundred  eggs  yield 
oil  enough  to  fill  a  bottle  (limeta),  it  requires  five 
thousand  eggs  for  a  jar  or  botija  of  oil.  Estimating 
at  one  hundred,  or  one  hundred  and  sixteen,  the  num- 
ber of  eggs  that  one  tortoise  produces,  and  reckoning 
that  one-third  of  these  is  broken  at  the  time  of  lay- 
19* 


4} 2  TRAVELS  ASD  ADV':XTURES. 

iog,  jmrliculiirly  by  the  '  mad  tortoises,'  we  may  pre- 
sume tlmt,  to  obtain  aumuilly  iUn  tin »U8iind  jars  of  oil, 
three  humlreil  and  thirty  thousand  «rra»  tortoises,  the 
wcij^ht  ot  which  amounts  to  one  hundred  and  sixty-five 
thousand  quintals,  must  hiy  thirly-thiee  millions  of 
eggs  on  the  three  shores  where  this  harvest  isgaiherei!. 
The  results  of  these  calculations  are  much  below  the 
truth.  Many  tortoises  lay  only  sixty  or  seventy  eggs  . 
and  a  great  number  of  these  animals  are  devoured  by 
jaguars  at  the  moment  they  emerge  from  the  water. 
The  Indians  bring  away  a  great  ntimber  of  eggs,  to  eat 
them  dried  iu  the  sun  ;  and  th  'y  break  a  considerable 
number  through  carelessness  during  the  gathering. 
The  number  of  eggs  that  are  hatched  before  the  people 
can  dig  them  up  is  so  j>rodigious,  that  near  the  en- 
campment of  Urvana  I  saw  the  whole  shore  of  the 
Orinoco  swarming  with  little  tortoises  an  iruh  ia 
diameter,  escaping  with  difiiculty  from  the  pursuit  of 
the  Indian  children.  If  to  these  considemtions  be 
added,  that  uU  the  arraus  do  not  assemble  on  the 
three  shores  of  the  encampment ;  and  that  there  are 
many  which  lay  their  eggs  in  solitude,  and  some  weeks 
later,  between  the  mouth  of  the  Orinoco  and  the  con- 
fluence of  the  Apure  ;  we  must  admit  that  the  num- 
ber of  turtles  which  annually  deposit  their  eggs  on  the 
banks  of  the  Lower  Orinoco,  is  near  a  million.  This 
number  is  very  great  for  so  large  an  animal.  In  gen- 
eral large  animals  multiply  less  considerably  than  the 
smaller  ones."  * 

•  IIumhoMt,  TraTcU  to  ibc  Equiiioctial  Rcpions  of  America. 


THE   OIL-WDLLS   OF   THE   ORINOCO. 


US 


So  extraordiiiiiry  do  these  tliini^s  appear  to  those 
not  conversant  with  the  wonders  of 
South  America,  that,  to  strengthen 
my  statements,  I  am  often  comjielled 
to  quote  from  more  familiar  writers 
on  this  subject,  for  fear  of  beinji;  ac- 
cused of  exa<;geration,  as  has  aheady 
happened  with  refeivuce  to  one  simple 
fact  of  every-day  occurrence  among 
Indian  hunters.  I  allude  to  the  mode 
of  shooting  turtles  and  crocodiles  with 
arrows  of  a  peculiar  construction,  re- 
ferred to  at  page  109,  and  which 
appeared  for  the  first  time  in  previous 
editions  of  my  Wild  Scenes  in  South 
America.  The  London  Saturday  lie- 
view  of  July  11th,  1863,  commenting 
upon  tliis — to  others  than  the  prac- 
tised eye  of  an  Indian — most  extraor- 
dinary feat  of  skill,  appeals  to  one  of 
the  best  mathematicians  in  the  king- 
dom to  learn  if  such  a  thing  can  be 
done  at  all  ;  although  in  other  respects 
the  remarks  of  the  reviewer  are  highly 
flattering  to  the  book,  I  will  endeavor 
to  show,  on  this  occasion,  that  nothing 
is  easier  when  you  know  how  to  do  it, 
in  support  of  which  I  could  do  no 
better  than  appeal  also  to  the  testi- 
mony of  English  authorities.  Both 
Wallace    and    Bates   mention   the  fact    in  their  re- 


Arrow  used  In  Turtle 
Shuoting. 


in  TRAVEI-S  AND  ADVENTURK^ 

mx-'Ctive  IxM^ks  of  travtl  on  tho  Ainii/.on  uud  liio 
Nc^ro  ;  and  the  hitter  accuinitauics  liiu  reiuurks 
witli  JiU  accurate  representation  of  the  arrow  used 
f..r  that  i>ur|K»tte,  which  I  reproduce  on  the  previouB 
paj^c,  witli  the  following  paragraph  olludiug  to  tho 
lu'jde  of  Using  it  : 

"  Cardozo  and  I  spent  an  hour  paddling  about. 
I  wax  asloni8he<l  ut  the  bkill  which  the  Indians  display 
in  hhootiug  turtles.  They  did  n(»t  wait  for  their  com- 
ing to  the  surface  to  breathe,  but  watched  for  the 
slight  movN'nicut.s  in  the  water,  which  revealed  their 
presence  underneath.  Tiiese  little  tracks  on  the  water 
arc  called  the  Siriri  ;  the  instant  one  was  i»erceived, 
an  arrow  flew  from  the  bow  of  the  nearest  man,  and 
never  failed  to  pierce  the  shell  of  tho  submerged  ani- 
mal. When  the  turtle  was  very  diiitant,  of  course  the 
aim  had  to  be  taken  at  a  considerable  elevation,  but 
tho  marksmen  preferred  a  longi&h  range,  because  the 
arrow  then  fell  pirpcndicularly  on  the  shell,  and  en- 
tered it  more  deeply."  * 

The  writer  goes  on  then  to  describe  the  arrow, 
which  corresponds  in  ever)*  particular  with  my  own 
description  of  it  at  i>agc  lO'J.  En  jxt^^cnt,  I  will 
remark  here  that  both  books  containing  it  came  out 
in  Ijondon  alxnit  tho  same  time  ;  and  I  would 
recommend  to  lovers  of  travel  and  adventure  the 
perusal   of    Mr.    Bates'   interesting   chapter    on    tho 

•  Tlie  NaluralUl  on  ilio  Aiii.i20i»,  toI.  ii.,  p.  260.     London,  18CS. 


THE  OILWELIS  Gl  TBS.  OKDEODD.  443 


*.ii^  iL]^iiTT  ADoazoB.  af  v^  at  Hmwhnidl:*^  mr- 
mtive  «  t^  aaae  ndjBck  aBong  Ikoae  flf  lis 
brodar    ma.  the  QnaooD  :    Vol^  are 


Bm   -viia:  -will  ife 
tds    of    GrBk:  Biitaai,  or  aajf  fitter 

osntioBu  wndd  atxfte  a  wedkHrtsd — half  aAoifr— 

lii  an  arrow  a:  aa  aasie  of  65"  ?     Has  ^rae  dooe  Inr 

Tttfcm^  tbe  mooef  <n  the  top  of  a  Bme  or  kmai  ciue 

talfel^toecif  t^aniia'cli^iiBot;  betbeavoaU 

ifoii  taLkwaila^  aavaad  Iqr  l]ie  ^bt  one,  aBowing 

liieaaflviotandbaraiCtBrhd^gchfltii^iBlitt  air; 

Ub  akfl  <inTTwg  ui£  flnort  tih  ■iikli  Ma 
■id  FrandeDt  Pasa  si  tiae  GafiitaL 

Aoot  a  luiujud  auMiag  ateve  Ua  fead  viiiioai  IogIe- 
a^a2  tke  tod,  gvided  oafy  bf  &e  ahadov  eaat  1910a 

ikt  nder  «il  ftri  ja  ^  t^dk  4^^  Urn  Ser.  J.  C. 

ladiaa  ankar  fheata^  «  ^  lack  ai 
iodEcf  dadafaaBBgiMferkot.    A  lai;^  aad  atvgae 

e  aapv  B  ^  Inds— ^Ib  tiiv  vi^  1^  a»  aUa 
liiem  itiwigf  an"  ^'"'J 


44»'. 


THAVELiJ   AND   AUVE.VTCRES. 


U8,  who  cHtiiiot  even  "  draw  a  lx)w  at  a  venture,"  we 
shuiilil  recollect  that  the  very  exiblence  of  the  wiva-jje 
depemls  ujion  tljc  accuracy  of  his  aim  as,  with  lightnin*; 
pj)eed,  he  llin^  the  nucrring  arrow  at  liis  j.rey.  No 
one  thinks  of  doubtin*;  the  historical  story  about  the 
Parthian  children  who  were  obli-^ed  to  bring  dtnvn 
their  niornitig's  meal  from  the  top  of  a  |)08t  with  ii 
much  more  clumsy  iuKtrument — the  eliiiffy  thereby 
acquiring  tlio  wondeilul  dexterity  for  which  their 
wurriors  were  famed. 

Some  may  be  inclined  to  doubt  the  truth  of  the 
stories  found  in  |trofane  history,  but  will  not  dispute 
the  testimony  of  Scripture,  wherein  we  are  told  that 
the  giant-warrior  Goliah  was  slain  by  the  youth 
David,  with  only  the  help  of  a  fling  and  a  "  pebble 
from  the  brook."  It  may  bi^  said  that  it  wjia  by 
Divine  aid  that  David  hit  the  mark  so  skillfully  ;  but 
who  shall  jtresume  to  say  that  such  aid  is  withheld, 
because  the  being  requiring  it  is  a  savage  and  not  one 
of  the  chosen  race  ? 

And  now,  my  dear  render,  thotigh  such  wonderful 
exhibitions  of  skill  as  are  related  above  may  appear 
to  your  mind  as  savoring  strongly  of  the  proverbial 
exaggeration  which  is  supposed  to  accompany  the 
relation  of  all  extroardinary  feats  of  the  chase,  yet,  if 
we  rellect  on  the  thousand  examples  which  como 
under  our  daily  observation,  illustrating  the  marveloue 
inventive  powers  of  man,  and  the  manual  skill  re- 
quired to  produce  and  apply  many  of  his  inventions, 
Vou  cannot  but  conclude  with  mc  that  there  arc  latent 


THE   OIL-WELLS   OF   THP:  ORINOCO.  4.^7 

powers  <;iven  to  us  by  the  great  i\I;ister,  whicli,  wjicn 
awakened  by  necessity,  can  surmount  obstacles  and 
attain  ends  involving  a  degree  of  phy>ical  as  well  as 
mental  perfection  almost  superhuman.  A  constant 
supply  of  food  is  the  first  anil  greatest  demand  of 
nature.  To  attain  this,  the  inhabitants  of  the  vast 
wilds  of  South  America  have  no  other  resource  than 
the  game  which  their  streams  and  forests  aflbid  ; 
the  acme  of  their  savage  education  is  to  excil  in  the 
skill  and  cunning  of  the  chase  ;  their  hunting  im- 
plements are  necessarily  rude  and  imperfect  ;  con- 
sequently, great  accuracy  of  aim,  and  steadiness  of 
nerve  are  required  in  their  successful  application. 


CHAPTF.II  XXVIII. 


HOMEWAUn    BOrND. 


Having  now  nccompHsbetl  tlie  most  difficult  part 
of  our  lalxirs,  namely,  tlmt  of  trnnsj)ortinf^  thn-'C 
thousand  wild  animals  across  a  rising  stream  by  such 
primitive  means,  we  took  advantaf^  of  the  few  canoes 
at  our  disjwsal  to  transfer  ourselves  and  chattels  to 
the  other  side  of  the  river.  This  was  not  bo  easily 
done,  ns  the  crccicute  was  raj»idly  gaining  upon  us, 
with  no  small  risk  to  our  ponderous  cquijiment,  which 
had  to  be  landed  on  the  sandy  IxMch  ;  and  unless 
quickly  removed,  while  waiting  fur  another  canoe- 
load,  our  traj)s  were  in  constant  danger  of  being 
carried  oft'  by  the  boisterous  waves  of  the  river.  I  had 
thus  the  misfortune  of  being  deprived  of  my  hammock, 
which  circumstance  compelled  me  to  seek  repose  at 
night  on  the  stiff  hide  covers  of  the  baggage — not  a 
very  comfortable  couch  after  a  hard  ride  in  the  hot  sun. 

Our  long  tram  of  baggage-mules  and  wild  beasts 
necessitated  many  st(>j>pages  by  the  way  in  onler  to  in- 
corpomte  stragglers,  but  moR^  frequently  tolmnt  anew 
the   ninawavs  amon<r  the  latter — not    an  casv  task. 


I 


IIOMKWAUI)  HOUND.  449 

The  bulls  espix-iully  !>lu)wc(l  a  iiiarkcd  rcluctatice  to 
leave  behind  their  bellowing  harems  in  the  everglades 
aeross  the  river.  ISuch  -was  their  love  of  home  in  this 
respeet,  that  we  were  assured  that  most  of  those 
Avhieli  suceeeded  in  evading  our  pursuit,  made  their 
way  back  to  their  savannas  in  spite  of  the  broad  ex- 
jianse  of  water  which  separated  them.  Much  valu- 
al)le  time  and  patience  were  lost  in  this  way,  while 
the  increasing  inundation  was  following  fast  on  our 
steps,  so  much  so,  that  long  after  we  had  left  the 
banks  of  the  river  on  our  rear,  we  had  to  wade  through 
a  continuous  sheet  of  water,  which  was  every  moment 
rising  above  the  fetlocks  of  our  beasts.  AVe  also  had 
to  ford  several  smaller  streams,  already  swollen  by 
the  rapid  rise  of  the  Apure ;  but,  as  no  canoes 
could  be  had  amidst  those  wilds,  for  love  or  money, 
we  availed  ourselves  of  the  primitive  contrivance 
devised  on  such  occasions  by  means  of  a  raw  hide 
fashioned  into  a  lighter.  Tlie  tnndvs  and  boxes 
Mere  carefully  piled  inside  the  skin,  and  if  a  person 
chose  to  avail  himself  of  this  frail  barge,  he  had  only 
to  sit  steadily  on  the  top  of  the  baggage  ;  the  load 
was  then  carefully  launched  on  the  water,  the  other 
end  of  the  rope  intrusted  to  the  swimmer  and  towed 
in  safety  to  the  other  side.  In  this  manner  our  pon- 
derous Doctor  and  a  few  others  who  were  unwilling 
to  expose  their  own  skin  to  the  tender  mercies  of  the 
caribes,  were  successfully  ferried  across,  although  it 
required  a  steady  nerve  not  to  stir  an  inch  and  thus 
upset  the  whole  concern. 

Our  march  across  the  prairies  presented  a  splendid 
sight  and  was  suggestive  of  a  long  file  of  prisoners 


^50  TKAVIii>   AM)    ADVE.NTLREH. 

after  a  wcU-fontested  lit-ld  of  battle.  At  tlie  head  of 
the  c-olinun,  which  extended  for  upward  of  a  mile, 
marched  a  Btronjf  picket  of  horsemen,  the  J'unUtos^ 
guiiling  the  caravan  ;  and  on  the  hides  and  rear  wa« 
another  lile  of  men  with  lazes  ready  to  unfold  after 
deserters.  Lively  tunes  and  whistling  were  kept  up 
by  the  men  for  the  diversion  of  the  cuttle,  which  ap- 
peared quite  delighted  with  the  mubic  and  in  con^-i  - 
qucnce  became  less  re.-tive  on  the  nuirch. 

Wiien  near  J^:ln  Jaime,  I,  together  with  a  party 
of  young  companions,  having  separated  ourselves 
from  the  rest  and  taken  another  route,  lost  ourselves 
in  the  intricate  ]ta>ses  leading  to  the  village.  This 
circumstance,  although  it  delayed  us  for  sttnie  time 
from  reaching  the  camp,  led  us  to  an  abundant  tield 
of  rich  honey,  the  ]  trod  action  of  a  email  wasp  called 
inafiijit/^  which  builds  its  nest  on  the  branchcfi  of  the 
trees,  in  the  shape  of  a  large  ball.  The  sting  of  this 
insect  is  so  distressing,  that  persons  aflected  by  it  be- 
come feverish  and  benuujbed  ;  therefore,  in  order  to 
possess  oiirselves  of  its  delicious  honey -combs,  we  took 
the  precaution  to  smoke  out  the  wasps  by  means  of  a 
burning  rag  at  the  end  of  a  long  i»ole  applied  to  the 
mouth  of  the  nest,  when  the  whole  swarm  abandoned 
it  to  the  hunters  without  molestation. 

It  was  almost  dark  when  we  arrived  at  San  Jainu . 
liaving  hit  accidentally  upon  the  right  path,  after 
wandering  the  whole  day  through  the  woods  ;  but, 
being  well  supplied  with  honey  and  water,  we  did  not 
ngret  as  much  the  loss  of  our  dinner,  as  the  fact  of 
its  having  been  prepared  by  another  kind  of  swarm, 
but   this  time  of  pretty  girls,  who  had  assembled  for 


1 


IIO.MKWARD  150UND.  451 

the  purpose  nt  tlic  cottage  of  our  lio>pitable  liost.  "We 
cnjoyeii,  however,  the  pleasure  of  their  unsophisti- 
cated society  for  souie  time  before  retiring  to  our  haui- 
niOL'ks  where,  liitigued  by  the  toils  of  our  previous  ad- 
venture, we  speedily  lost  ourselves  again  in  "  sweet, 
balmy  sleep." 

Being  rather  in  a  hurry  to  reach  the  pass  before  a 
sudden  rise  of  the  creeks  connected  with  the  river  Por- 
tugucsa,  we  were  up  long  before  sunrise,  and  had 
barely  time  to  partake  of  a  substantial  breakfast,  pre- 
pared by  our  charming  entertainers. 

Immediately  upon  our  arrival  at  the  pass,  we  pro- 
ccetled  to  force  our  cattle  across  the  river,  which  being 
less  wide  than  the  Apure,  and  our  herds  having  be- 
come more  manageable  after  the  long  march,  we  were 
enabled  to  execute  it  in  better  order  and  less  time  than 
at  the  former  river.  Still  we  contrived  somehow  or 
other  to  larry  here  longer  than  was  necessary,  having 
wasted  three  days  in  accomplishing  what  might  have 
been  the  work  of  one.  The  fact  is,  that  we  w^ere 
rather  taken  np  with  our  former  feminine  acquaint- 
ances, especially  at  the  close  of  day,  when  the  party 
assembled  in  the  barraeoon,  destined  for  the  fandango^ 
which  was  usually  kept  up  the  whole  night. 

Fitfid  accompaniment  to  these  nocturnal  revelries 
was  the  deafening  croaking  of  the  toads  and  frogs, 
now  abounding  by  myriads  in  the  marshes  and  quag- 
mires of  the  vicinity.  The  shrill,  metallic  notes  of 
the  frogs,  and  the  hoarse  croaking  of  their  milky 
brethren,  are  a  feature  which  never  fails  to  excite 
the  astonishment  of  strangers  in  those  regions.  The 
former  especially  are  so  striking,  that  were  an  English- 


452  TUAVKl-S   AND   ADVENTUUtlS. 

man  or  AnuTicnn  siuldcnly  tninsported  there,  without 
knowleJgc  of  these  souiuU,  he  Would  ima«:iije  hiiiijielf 
at  home,  in  the  neighborhood  of  ten  tliousand  steam 
whistles.  I  wn«  assured  by  our  friend  B.,  witli 
reference  to  the  toads  of  Gundiirranm,  a  village  on 
the  banks  of  the  IV>rtuguesc,  that  one  night  he  was 
thrown  down  in  the  street  by  coming  in  contact  with 
one  of  these  creatures,  which  he  mistook  for  a  boy  in 
a  stooj)ing  posture.  Indignant  at,  what  he  supposed, 
the  indiscretion  of  the  fellow,  B.  was  in  the  act  of 
kicking  him  away  when,  to  his  surprise,  he  perceived 
the  seeming  boy  slowly  moving  off  in  the  shai>e  of  a 
big  toad  ! 

This,  of  course,  is  another  of  B.*s  gn-at  yan)8, 
which  he  endeavored  to  jtass  on  us  as  voritalile  facts 
occurring  to  him  during  his  wandering  i»er(.griuations  ; 
but  really,  putting  aside  his  extmvagant  stories,  such 
is  the  volume  of  voice  and  long-sustained  sopranos^ 
bassos,  and  contraltos  of  the  toads  and  frogs  of  South 
America,  that  one  would  suppose  they  had  Itmgs  as 
big  as  those  of  a  manati.  And  as  regards  the  size 
that  these  creatures  attain  here,  I  may  (juote  a 
passage  from  a  recent  book  of  travels  in  those  coun- 
tries which,  had  it  not  ajipeared  in  London  simulta- 
neously with  the  first  edition  of  the  Wild  Scenes  t'u 
South  Amcrica^^  any  one  might  be  inclined  to  think 
— after  reading  the  preceding  remarks — that  they  had 
been  suggested  by  the  perusal  of  the  following  jmr- 
agraphs  : 

•  Soo  I.omion  Atlirnstim  of  August  n,  1863,  which  conUiiu  a  full 
iXTicw  of  l)Otb  books. 


IIO.MKWAKI)    BOUND.  453 

''  III  soft,  dri}»|)in,u:  Nveatlicr,  the  country  roads  1)0- 
coinc  almost  impassable,  and  my  favorite  resource  was 
to  sit  still  and  read  Tennyson  or  Longfellow ;  but  the 
studies  of  a  novice  in  Brazil,  on  a  wet  evening,  are 
strangely  interrupted  by  the  extraordinary  proceedings 
of  frogs  and  toads  of  all  sorts  and  sizes,  which  testify 
their  exuberant  joy  by  the  most  discordant  noises. 
Croaking  is  no  name  for  it.  Some  of  the  milder  and 
quieter  kinds  may  perhaps  be  said  to  croak,  but  these 
are  soon  silenced  by  another  tribe,  whose  name  is 
Legion,  grunting,  snorting,  and  shrieking  like  a  rail- 
way train  at  full  speed  ;  and  when  they  stop  for  want 
of  breathj  the  '  wondrous  song '  is  taken  up  by  larger 
numbers  of  other  detestable  batrachyans,  which  keep 
up  a  frantic  revel  of  rattling  and  clattering,  such  as  I 
have  never  heard  equalled,  except  by  an  intoxicated 
chorus  of  May  sweejis. 

"  Some  of  the  toads  are  enormous.  In  one  of  my 
mountain  rambles  I  suddenly  spied  a  very  beautiful 
lycopodium  growing  in  large  quantities  on  a  moist 
bank,  and,  without  looking  at  my  feet,  sprang  across 
the  path  to  gather  a  specimen.  I  stumbled  over  some- 
thing very  hard  and  immovable,  and  nearly  measured 
my  length  in  the  mud  ;  but  I  seized  the  lycopodium, 
and  then  turned  round  to  look  at  the  obstacle.  It  was 
a  monstrous  toad,  nearly  a  foot  long,  with  great  yellow 
pits  around  its  spiteful  eyes,  and  as  ugly  a  brute  as 
ever  I  saw.  He  did  not  make  the  least  attempt  to 
move,  and  seemed  to  be  chuckling  over  the  fact  of 
nearly  upsetting  a  traveller.  A  friend  of  mine,  how- 
ever, told  me  that  he  had  been  oflered  a  still  larger 


454 


TKAVKUS   AND   ADVENTURES. 


specimen  ns  a  present,  wliich  be  declined  to  accept  on 
the  ^nmiul  nt'  I'erocity.  Ho  said  it  was  as  bi<;  as  a  hat, 
it  opened  its  mouth  like  an  (iVBter.  barked  like  a  d«tfr, 
and  Hew  at  his  legs  !  A  nice  pet  to  keep  in  a  straw- 
berry-bed !  "** 

But  I  never  was  so  struck  with  the  power  whieh 
frof^s  alone  can  exert  *'  in  conjp'ess  assembled,"  as  one 
night  that  I  accompanied— soon  after  our  return  from 
the  Llanos — a  military  exj)edition  to  surjirise  a  b;uul 
ot"  revolutionists,  who  had  been  cummitting  all  sorts 
of  depredati  ms  on  the  plantatims  across  the  lake,  and 
were  prepariii2;  to  attack  the  town  of  Villa  de  Curaon 
the  road  to  the  plains.  We  started  from  Miiracay  in 
the  early  part  of  a  rainy  night,  and  had  to  take  a  cir- 
cuitous route — it  hardly  deserved  the  name  of  roatl — 
around  the  eastern  end  of  the  lake  to  reach  the  vil- 
lage of  ^lagdaleno  (hca<lqiiarters  of  the  marauders) 
before  daylight.  As  the  cxjiedition  had  to  be  con- 
ducieil  with  much  jirecaution,  mither  drums  nor 
bugles  were  allowed  ;  consequently  all  onlers  had  to 
be  given  viva  voce.  But  when  we  reached  the  nean^st 
point  to  the  swanifiy  borders  of  the  lake,  I  do  not 
believe  that  even  Stentor  could  have  made  himself 
heard  in  the  midst  of  that  hellish  uproar.  To  add  to 
our  *•  confusion  w^rse  confounded,"  the  soil  was  so 
spongy  and  drenched  with  the  vernal  deluge,  that 
infantry  and  cavalry — we  had  no  artillery — were  nearly 
swallowfd  up  by  the  mud  before  firing  a  shot  at  the 

•  South  Aincricaa  Sketches  l>y  Tho*.  \Voo«ll>inc  IliDchliflT,  F.  R.  G.  S. 


IIOMKWAUD   HOUND.  455 

enemy  ;  torlunately  we  ex^ricaied  ourselves  b?f)rc  tlio 
latti'i-  were  apjnized  of  our  approach  by  a  volley  fired 
at  our  vanguard  by  one  ot  their  advanced  posts  near 
the  village,  which,  had  they  exhibited  the  least  judg- 
ment in  military  tactics,  they  might  have  stationed  a 
little  further  otF,  where  we  encountered  a  turbulent 
stream  which  only  a  portion  of  our  force  with  the 
utmost  dilliculty  could  cross.  As  it  turned  out,  we 
entered  the  village  pell-mell  with  their  advanced 
guard,  and  soon  scattered  them  over  the  neighboring 
mountains,  where  further  pursuit  was  utterly  im- 
possible. 

What  a  glorious  chance  these  swampy  realms  of 
Venezuela  would  offer  some  French  gourmand  desirous 
of  migrating  to  South  America  !  And  yet,  strange  to 
say,  our  people  will  not  touch  that  epicurean  bonne- 
Louche,  which  has  conferred  a  name  upon  a  whole 
civilized  nation:  Ics  saiivages  ! 

Another  n3isy  creature  that  makes  its  appearance 
about  this  time  also,  is  the  chichnrra,  an  insect  of  the 
locust  tribe,  with  which  the  woods  are  literally  filled, 
and  whose  sharp,  shrill,  and  continuous  chant  almost 
surpas.ses  that  of  the  frogs  themselves.  Fortunitely, 
they  are  only  heard  in  the  day-time  ;  and  our  route 
being  mo-tly  over  open  prai.-ies,  we  were  not  so 
constantly  tormented  by  them,  except  whenever  we 
ha  I  to  pass  through  the  woods  infe.-ted  by  these  noisy 
insects.  It  seemed  to  me  that  for  every  leaf  of  those 
truly  gigantic  trees  there  were  twenty  chicharras,  all 
sinking  at  the  top  of  their  voices,  witiiout  the  least 
intermission.     What    they  live  upon — for  I  did  not 


456 


TIIAVKI-S   AM)   ADVENTURES. 


perceive  any  ilnmajjc  to  the  folinge  of  the  trees — und 
when  do  thiy  get  their  meals,  my  observations  could 
not  discover.  Sullivan  tells  us  of  two  other  insects 
of  the  tn»i>ic.s,  which  joincil  to  the  above,  might  rival 
the  nocturnal  concerts  of  iivi'itrc  crapeau. 

"  I)uring  our  ride,  1  was  startled  by  hearing  what 
1  fully  imagined  was  the  whistle  of  a  steam-engine  ; 
but  I  was  informed  it  was  a  noise  caused  by  a  beetle 
that  is  peculiar  to  Tobago.  It  is  near  the  size  of  a 
man's  hand  ;  and  tixing  itself  against  a  branch  com- 
mences a  kind  of  drumming  noise,  which  by  degrees 
quickens  to  a  whistle.  It  was  so  loud  that,  when  stand- 
ing fully  twenty  yanls  from  the  tree  where  it  was  in 
operation,  the  sound  wjus  so  shrill  that  you  hail  to  raise 
your  Voice  considerably  to  address  your  neighbor.  The 
entomological  productions  of  the  tropics  struck  me  as 
being  quite  as  astonishing  in  size  and  nature  as  the  bo- 
tanical or  zoological  wonders.  There  is  another  beetle, 
called  the  razor-grinder,  that  imitates  the  sound  of  a 
knife-grinding  machine  so  exactly,  that  it  is  impossible 
to  divest  oneself  of  the  belief  that  one  is  in  reality 
listening  to  *  some  needy  knife-grinder'  who  has  wan- 
dered out  to  the  tropical  wilds  on  8j)ec."  * 

Some  kinds  of  trees  were  also  alive  with  another, 
though  quite  haniilcss  tenant,  the  iguana,  a  green 
lizard  measuring  nearly  four  feet  in  length,  and  thick 
in  proportion  round  the  body,  whose  Hesh  is  said  to 
mirpass  that  of  the  tenderest  chicken,  and,  I  imagine 
— never  having  tasted  it — even  that  of  the  celebrated 

*  Rambles  in  North  and  South  ArocricA. 


llUMEWAliU   IJOUNl).  457 

French  bonne-houche  referred  to  above.  The  eggs 
which  it  hays  in  great  profusion,  I  know  from  per- 
sonal experience,  are  quite  sweet,  and  can  be  taken 
out  of  the  animal,  without  injury  to  the  harmless 
creature,  by  cutting  it  open  and  sewing  it  up  again. 
While  at  San  Jaime  I  hoard  a  story  in  connection 
with  this  reptile,  which  is  very  characteristic  of  the 
Spanish  commanders  during  the  war  of  Independence, 
and  whose  memory  is  still  fresh  throughout  the  country 
they  overran  with  their  exactions.  It  appears  that 
one  of  these  gentlemen  newly  arrived  from  Spain,  had 
established  his  headquarters  at  San  Jaime,  which  was 
by  tliis  time  pretty  well  cleaned  out  of  everything  that 
moved  upon  the  earth.  One  day,  the  soi-disant  com- 
mander was  going  his  rounds  about  the  town,  when  he 
met  an  Indian  boy  carrying  a  brace  of  iguanas  sus- 
pended from  a  stick  upon  his  shoulders ;  these  lizards, 
by  virtue  of  their  aerial  prerogative,  or  perhaps  on  ac- 
count of  their  inexhaustible  numbers,  having  escaped 
the  general  onslaught  upon  other  living  creatures,  not 
excepting  the  inhabitants.  The  Spaniard,  who  had 
never  seen  iguanas  in  his  countr}',  naturally  had  his 
curiosity  aroused,  and  at  once  instituted  as  close  an  in- 
terrogatory respecting  these,  as  if  a  doomed  ''  insur- 
gent "  had  been  brought  to  him.  "  Say,  boy,  arc  they 
good  to  eat  ?" — ''Si,  Scuor,"  replied  the  boy,  who 
probably  had  never  tasted  in  his  life  any  other  kind  of 
food. — "  What  will  you  take  for  them  ?  "  (quite  con- 
siderate),— "^Una  peseta,  Scuor"  (a  quarter  of  a  dol- 
lar). A  bargain  was  at  once  made  to  the  satisfaction 
of  both  parties,  and  the  iguanas  were  handed  over  to 

20 


4:,s  TKAVKl-'^   AM>   AliVENTlUH< 

the  orderly  beside  tlie  coimuunder,  whopivc  the  proper 
directions  to  hiive  tht-m  served  for  dinner  ;  and  so 
delighted  wiw  His  Kxcellency  witli  the  dish,  that  he 
published  at  once  a  bando  ofi'ering  a  reward  of  twenty- 
tive  cents  for  every  brace  of  iguanas  brought  to  him. 
ThrtHJ  days  afterwards  he  had  to  countermand  the 
order  through  another /'a;j(/o,  thn.ateuing  with  capital 
punishment  any  one  who  woidd  dare  to  bring  him 
aui>thcr  brace  of  the  horrid-looking  creatures,  with 
which  the  juvenile  portion  of  the  town  had  by  this 
time  filled  his  headquarters. 

The  favorite  haunts  of  the  iguana  arc  the  Ceiba, 
and  the  Santl-box  trees — Uni  crrpHans — both  brist- 
ling with  sharp  thorns,  a  gcxjd  protection  against  the 
persecution  of  predatory  boys  ;  otherwise  these  lizanls 
fall  an  easy  prey,  when  perched  ui)on  more  accessible 
localities,  by  merely  ''  whistling  for  them  ;  '  for  being, 
as  it  ajipears,  very  fond  of  musical  sounds,  they  are 
readily  lulled  to  sleep  by  that  means,  while  the  cap- 
tors jireparc  a  noose  at  the  end  of  a  long  rotl  with 
which  they  secure  their  victim.  They  do  not  always 
fare  badly,  however,  for  being  cjvsily  domesticated, 
they  are  kept  as  pets  by  the  female  j)ortion  of  the 
household,  where  they  become  very  useful  in  ridding 
the  cottage  of  cockroaches  and  other  vermin.  Their 
bitterest  enemies,  however,  are  roving,  lazy  Indians, 
who  not  only  consider  them  a  dainty  morsel,  but 
take  particular  delight  in  tonnenting  these  inoffensive 
creatures  by  quartering  them  alive,  and  teazing  them 
in  various  ways  ;  thus,  when  any  person  is  in  a  bad 
plight  his  troubles  are  compared  to  those  of  the  igtiana 


HOMEWARD  UOUND.  45<) 

in  that  itrodicaineut,  as  will  bo  seen  in  the  following 
|)0])ulai-  ditty  : 

Los  trabajos  dc  la  iguana 

Cuando  los  Indios  la  cojeii, 
Lc  quitan  los  cuatro  patas 

Y  le  dioen,  iguana,  corrc ! 

When  Iiuliuns  seize  the  iguana 

Ilcr  sorrows  are  begun, 
They  cut  off  her  four  feet, 

And  cry,  "  Iguana,  run ! " 

How  difterent  the  case  would  liave  been  if,  instead 
of  the  puny,  harndess  creatures  that  iguanas  are  at 
the  present  day,  their  cruel  tormentors  had  lived 
in  the  times  of  their  prototype,  the  Ig^ianodon,  the 
most  colossal  of  the  saurian  reptiles,  sixty  feet  in 
length,  with  a  horn  on  its  snout  as  formidable  as  that 
of  the  rhinoceros,  and.  teeth  sharp  enough  to  munch 
to  a  jelly  the  most  stately  Ceiba  or  Sand-box  tree. 
"It  is  difficult  to  resist  the  feeling  of  astonishment, 
not  to  say  incredulity  " — observes  Figuicr — "  which 
creeps  over  one  while  contemplating  the  disproportion 
so  striking  between  this  being  of  the  ancient  world  and 
its  congener  of  the  new."  *  The  Iguanodon  was  in 
fact  an  iguana  of  huge  dimensions,  enjoying  the  free- 
dom of  the  jungle  with  the  Hyhcosaurus  and  the 
Mcgalosaurus — two  other  saurian  monsters  of  the  cre- 
taceous period.  The  latter  is  represented  as  possess- 
ing teeth  in  perfect  accord  with  the  destructive  func- 
tions developed  in  this  formidable  creature,  for  they 
partake  at  once  of  the  knife,  the  sabre,  and  the  saw. 

•    /.«  Terrc  avant  lc  Deluge. 


CIIAlTKi:    XXIX 


TViin-E  quietly  nltporbcd  one  day  in  tlie  pleasure? 
of  the  anjrler  by  the  hanks  of  a  creek  not  far  from  tlie 
camp,  I  was  startled  in  my  ]>eaeeful  oeoupntion  by 
the  report  of  tire-arms  in  that  direction.  There  were 
rumors  eoneerniuij  the  depredations  of  a  band  of  rob- 
bers in  that  neigh liorhood,  and  therefore  I  had  every 
reason  to  suppose  they  had  been  bold  enough  to  at- 
tack our  little  band  of  resolute  men  with  a  view  to 
plundering  the  cam]>.  To  pack  up  lines  and  port- 
folio was  the  work  of  an  instant,  and  hurrying  toward 
the  camp,  I  arrived  breathless  and  ]>anting  with  fa- 
tigue in  time  to  get  the  last  glimpses  of  the  cause  o( 
this  ujtroar  in  the  shai>c  of  a  hmcha  gliding  quickly 
down  the  river.  It  seems  that  the  boatmen,  delighted 
with  the  presence  of  the  beloved  Chieftain  of  the 
Llanos,  immediately  recurred  to  the  usual  way  of  e.x- 
]»ressing  their  enthusia.sm,  whether  in  jn-ace  or  war, 
through  the  means  of  the  all-potent  gunpowder.  In 
the  afternoon  of  the  same  day  a  detachment  of  horse, 
composed  for  the  most  part  of  citizens  from  Calabozo. 


CALAUOZO.  461 

an-ived  at  the  pass  to  invite  the  general  to  their  city, 
and  to  oti'er  him  protection,  in  case  of  need,  from  the 
band  of  desperadoes  above  mentioned  ;  these  had  al- 
nadv  been  bold  enough  to  attack  the  prison  guard  of 
Calabozo,  with  the  object  of  carrying  oft'  one  of  its 
inmates,  a  prominent  citizen  of  the  place  who  had 
been  implicated  in  the  robbery  of  a  large  drove  of 
mules.  Aitliough  it  was  currently  reported  that  his 
two  sons  were  the  perpetrators  of  this  unworthy  act, 
yet,  the  tact  that  the  animals  M'ere  found  on  his  estate, 
and  his  stout  refusal  to  implicate  his  sons,  made  him 
responsible  for  the  robbery;  he  was  therefore  incar- 
cerated and  his  trial  had  commenced  when  his  sons, 
adding  sedition  to  theft,  attacked  the  prison  during 
the  night  with  a  band  of  peons  from  their  own  and 
other  cattle  estates.  The  result  was  most  disastrous 
to  the  assailants  ;  one  of  the  sons  having  been  badly 
wounded  in  the  strife  was  taken  prisoner  and  shot  in 
the  public  square  ;  while  the  other  forfeited  his  life 
soon  after  during  the  vigorous  persecution  undertaken 
by  the  citizens  against  his  band.  Yet,  this  handful 
of  men,  badly  armed  and  without  leaders,  but  with  a 
wide  field  of  forest  and  savannas  for  retreat,  and 
plenty  of  cattle  for  subsistence,  continued  for  a  long 
time  to  engage  the  serious  attention  of  the  govern- 
ment ;  and  tinally,  wlien  the  following  revolution 
bruke  out,  they  formed  the  nucleus  around  which  the 
rebel  party  mustered  very  strong.  In  this  manner 
many  depredators  not  only  evade  the  punishment  of 
justice  for  their  crimes,  but  eventually  rise  in  impor- 
tance, and  even  become  leading  spirits  in  the  land 
where  the  laws  are  powerless  in  repressing  their  ex- 
cesses. 


4fVj  TKAVKLS   AM)   AUVKNTUUHS. 

A\  ith  this  encournprin;^  prop|)cct  before  us,  wi-  )>a<lt' 
H<licii  to  the  'finy  hnnu-ttes  of  J.a  Portu^ue>ia  and  took 
tl»f  htrui«;hte.st  route  to  Cahihozo,  aeroi>6  the  jrreat  <•*- 
hro  or  fcwauii)  of  Caiuairuan.  An  entire  day  was 
ppent  in  wadin;^  through  this  refrfs.hin«^  transit  route, 
whieh,  owin^  to  the  inerea»«in^  rise  of  the  river,  had 
aheady  ae«iuirtd  the  asj»cet  of  a  broad  hike.  Our 
horsei  were  most  of  the  time  immersed  in  tlie  water 
up  to  the  saddle  girths,  and  few  of  tliem  eseaped  total 
submersion,  wherever  there  were  any  dej»reiisioiis  of 
the  ground.  !Many  of  the  bajr^aj^e  mules  esj)ecial]y, 
havinj;  no  rider  to  jjuide  tluni,  h»st  their  fcxttinj;  and 
rolled  in  the  watir,  to  the  jrreat  discomfort  of  tliose 
who  had  any  articles  of  apparel  in  their  loads.  Tow- 
ard the  afternoon  we  emer<red  fn»m  this  disnud 
swamj)  and  made  a  landing  at  a  jihue  called  lianeo 
Larjjo,  celebrated  in  the  annals  <»f  the  horse  epi<lemie 
as  the  cattle  estate  u)>on  which  the  wrath  of  Heaven 
fell  after  the  blasphemous  boasting  of  its  owner. 

AVe  were  beginning  to  njipreciatc  the  comfort  of 
riding  again  upon  firm  ground,  when  wo  observe*!  a 
group  i»f  horsemen  emerging  from  the  palmar  on  our 
right,  galloping  in  the  direction  of  our  scouts,  a«  if 
threatening  to  cut  them  otT.  Fearing  lest  they  might 
be  the  l)and  of  ri>bbers  whom  we  had  every  reason  to 
Busj>ect  of  evil  intentions,  wc  put  spurs  to  our  liorscs 
in  liot  chase  of  them.  ^Mistaking  us  in  turn  for  those 
gentry,  the  strangers  jnished  on  ahead  of  us  to  evade 
oiir  pursuit.  Our  scouts  observing  their  retreat  cut 
olT  by  a  larger  ft)rce,  were  not  slow  in  their  endeavors 
to  reach  tlic  fann-hotise,  wliere  they  could  defend 
themselves    against    the   snp]X)sed  robbers  until  wc 


CA  I, A  BOZO.  4(53 

Could  conic  lip  to  their  assistance.  Tlic  suspected 
]>nrty  being  mounted  on  fresh  horses,  -sve  found  it 
<lithcult,  however,  to  overtake  tlieni.  Fortunatelv 
one  of  tlicir  horses  stumbled  accidentally  in  a  liolc, 
throwinji;  down  the  rider,  Avhich  circumstance  placed 
him  in  our  liands  ;  from  him  "wc  ascertained  that  they 
were  not  aalttaJoreSj  hut  vaqucros  h'oin  a  neighboring 
cattle  farm,  whom  the  annoyances  of  tlie  mosrjtiilla 
had  com])elled  to  ride  through  the  i)almar  at  robber's 
s]ieed.  Ills  eompanions  observing  that  we  pei'mitted 
him  to  depart  in  peace,  now  slackened  their  ])ace, 
and  had  their  fears  dispelled  before  they  could  earry 
the  alarm  to  other  places  that  the  salteadons  Mere 
close  at  hand. 

At  Venegas,  a  cattle  State  not  far  from  Calabozo, 
we  parted  company  with  our  herds,  abandoning  their 
care  and  guidance  to  the  efficient  caporals,  while  we 
proceeded  direct  to  the  Palmyra  of  the  Llanos,  alwavs 
escorted  by  the  citizen-guard  who  had  come  so  far  to 
meet  us.  Another  deputation  from  the  city,  com- 
posed of  the  most  prominent  persons  in  the  place,  met 
us  at  the  pass  of  the  Guarico,  and  after  a  few  congrat- 
idatory  compliments,  we  rode  on  without  stopping 
until  we  reached  the  village  of  the  Mision  de  Abajo. 
Here  we  remained  long  enough  to  change  our  wet 
garments  and  i)artake  of  a  collation  prepared  at  the 
summer  residence  of  an  old  soldier  of  Independence. 
This  village  is  famous  on  account  of  several  crystalline 
s]>rings  issuing  from  deep  gullies  made  by  the  water 
on  a  hard  conglomerate  comj^jscd  of  sand,  pebbles, 
ami  nodules  of  beaut  it'ul  agates;  the  whole  cemented 
t<  (gether  l>y  a  calcareous  substance,  consisting  probably 


40-1  TlCAVJI.x  AM*   ADVENTURES. 

of  minute  shells  of  infuForia.*  Some  of  the  pools 
measure  several  fathoms  in  depth  ;  yet  the  water  is 
so  transparent,  that  the  smallest  j»ebble  can  be  elearly 
discerned  at  the  bottom  ;  I  also  notieed  many  small 
fish.  These  spurklinf;  natural  fountains  were  shaded 
by  proves  of  balsamiferous  plants,  such  as  (•oj)aiferas, 
aniyris,  and  carob-trees,  the  dark  foliafje  of  which 
■was  relieved  by  a  earjiet  of  green  gniss  extending  for 
miles  around,  the  whole  presenting  an  aj>pearanee  of 
a  well-cultivated  and  beautifully  laid  out  Knglish 
j>ark.  Thither  resort,  during  the  sultry  months  of 
summer,  the  inhabitants  of  Calabozo,  m  ho  now  came 
out  in  vast  numbers  to  welcome  us  to  their  beautiful 
city. 

T\\Q  j)rocession  was  fornud  on  the  extensive  nat- 
ural lawn,  three  miles  in  length,  between  the  village 
and  the  city,  which  rose  in  the  distance  amidst  the 
towering  foliage  of  the  fan-palms  surrounding  it  in 
oriental  magnificence.  As  we  entered  the  narrow, 
but  cleanly  streets,  the  tiring  of  muskets,  i)istols,  and 
blunderbusses  commenced  amidst  the  vivas  of  the 
population,  while  a  shower  of  roses  fell  on  the  favored 
head  <jf  the  '*  Lion  of  the  Llanos,"  f  as  he  passed  imder 
the  windows  of  the  houses. 

The  city  of  Calabozo,  cajtital  of  the  province  of 
El  Guarico,  is  situated  ujion  the  northern  extremity 
of  the  i/um  or  plateau  of  the  same  name,  command- 

•  S*>c  Darwin,  Gcolopy  of  tlio  Panipa."*,  pp.  I'JC^-lTl.    Muiray.  1K52. 

f   Loon  do  \oi^  LLino.-*,  tir  Loon  dc  Pnyara — the  npp<-llation  pivrn  to 
fionpnil  Pacz  hr  the  p<mplc  nftcr  the  action  of  San  .Iiian  <h'  Pavara  in 
In:*",  whon  he  dofcato*!  with  hi*  UMly-^.'uanl  of  hixty  LLincr< 
of  the  rt- bol  chieflAin  Farfau,  nuutbcring  ouc  UiuustJid. 


CALABOZO.  465 

ing  an  extensive  view  of  the  picturesque  country 
watered  by  the  beautiful  river  which  gives  its  name 
to  the  province.  Unlike  all  the  other  towns  of  the 
Llanos,  Calabozo  is  an  extremely  well-built  city,  with 
streets  running  at  right  angles.  The  houses  are  neat 
and  commodious,  ranking  with  the  best  in  the  capital 
of  the  re])ublic.  It  contains  a  number  of  fine  churches, 
one  of  which  was  built  at  the  expense  of  a  wealthy 
cattle  proprietor  of  the  place ;  it  is  one  of  the  finest 
temj)lcs  in  the  country. 

AVords  cannot  do  justice  to  the  enthusiastic  recei> 
tion  and  boundless  hospitality  extended  to  ns  on  this 
occasion  by  the  generous  inhabitants.  In  addition  to 
the  regular  entertainments,  such  as  breakftist  and 
dinner-parties,  balls,  q.w(\  fandangos  provided  daily  in 
their  city  residences,  we  were  occasionally  treated  to 
a  fete  c/iarnptfre,  a  la  Uanori,  in  their  quintas  or 
country-houses.  Most  of  these  are  situated  on  the 
banks  of  the  beautiful  Guiirico,  on  the  slopes  of  the 
plateau  upon  which  the  city  is  built ;  and  there, 
amidst  the  most  luxuriant  groves  of  orange,  lemon, 
and  other  tropical  fruits,  the  abundant  fare  was  served 
to  us  in  tnie  Llanero  style.  In  the  mean  time  the  tro- 
vatori  of  the  Llanos  did  not  fail  to  enliven  the  scene 
with  their  never-ending  trovas  llayieras^  in  which  espe- 
cial mention  was  made  of  the  most  prominent  persons 
to  whom  we  were  indebted  for  this  munificent  hospi- 
tality ;  but  more  particularly  to  the  past  deeds  of  the 
personage  who  prompted  it.  Tlie  broad  fan-shaped 
leaves  of  the  inor'u'hc-\Kxhn  (Mauritia  flexuosa) — the 
celebrated  Tree  of  Life  of  the  Warraoun  Indians — 
supj)licd  the  most  appropriate  talilc-cloths  on  these 

'20« 


4(J6  TKAVKUS   AM)   ADVEXTLKES. 

occasion.^,  Pi»rea(l  in  the  vicinity  of  tonic  lijurmurinp 
pprin*;,  i!^^uin^  in  niott  rai^os  from  the  foot  of  tlie 
jmhn-trccs.  The  natives  believe  that  this  j»luut  pos- 
sesses the  j)ower  of  j>uini)in«;  water  from  the  ground 
by  means  of  its  niattid  roots :  they  evidently  con- 
found cause  and  etfect  in  tliis,  as  well  as  in  many 
other  cases ;  for  this  luxuriant  j»alm  will  not  thrive 
except  in  moist  ground.  The  slopes  of  the  mtsa  act- 
ing as  a  vast  draiii  to  the  plain  above,  olVer  this  de- 
Bideratuni  to  the  r/JO/vV/^t-palm.  Some  of  the  springs 
are  of  a  tliermal  character,  but  not  too  wanu  to  yro- 
vent  ])er8ons  enjoying  a  most  refreshing  bath.  I 
noticed,  in  one  instance,  two  springs  running  side  by 
Bide,  one  of  which  was  cold  and  the  other  warm.  The 
tide-flooded  lands  on  the  L(.»wcr  Orinoco  and  Amazon 
rivers  seem  to  be  particularly  adapted  to  the  develop- 
ment of  this  noble*  species  of  palm.  '*  In  those 
places,"  says  "Wallace,  f  "  there  is  no  underwood  to 
V)rcak  the  view  among  interminable  ranges  of  huge 
colunmar  trunks,  rising  unbroken  by  branch  or  leaf 
to  t])e  height  of  eighty  or  a  hundre<l  feet,  a  vast  nat- 
tiral  temple,  which  does  not  yield  in  gi'andeur  and 
Bublimify  to  those  of  Palmyra  or  Athens." 

A  full-grown  leaf  of  this  tree  is  quite  a  lo.nd  for 
one  man  to  carry.  The  petiole,  or  leaf-stock,  is  a  solid 
beam  ten  or  twelve  feet  long,  while  the  leaf  or  fan 
itself  measures  nine  or  ten  across.  The  fruit,  in 
bunches  of  three  hundred  and  u]>ward,  pei*fcctly  re- 
scmV)les  the  cones  of  the  white  j>ine.     AVhen  arrived  at 

•  LinnciLS  tn  hi.«  rnttiUM.ism  for  the  fplcndid  familj  of  palm^  call:» 
Ihotn  tho  prinro«  of  the  Tcplahlo  kinpHom. 
f  Palni!*  of  ihc  .\iDazon  niul  Rio  Nc^^ro. 


CALAUOZO.  4(}7 

its  maturity,  it  is  yellow  within  and  scarlet  without, 
covered  with  scales. 

The  benefits  of  this  lite-sui)})()rting  tree  may  be 
reckoned  as  numerons  as  the  number  of  days  in  the 
year.  From  the  unopened  leaves  the  wild  man  of  the 
forest  obtains  a  fibre  remarkable  for  its  toughness,  and 
-which  he  twists  into  cordage  for  his  bow-string  and 
fishing  tackle,  or  weaves  it  into  elegant  hammocks 
and  aprons  for  himself  and  family  ;  he  also  plats  them 
neatly  into  mats  and  cloaks,  and  even  sails  for  liis 
canoe ;  when  fully  expanded,  these  leaves  form  the 
best  thatch  for  his  hut.  From  the  terminal  bud  or 
inner  layer  of  leaves,  commonly  styled  the  cabbage 
of  the  palm,  the  Indian  jirocures  a  vegetable  quite 
analogous  to,  and  more  tender  and  delicious  than  a 
similar  production  of  the  garden.  The  fruit  in  like 
manner  afibrds  a  variety  of  alimentary  substances,  ac- 
cording to  the  season  in  which  it  is  gathered,  whether 
its  saccharine  pulp  is  fully  mature,  or  whether  it  is  in 
a  green  state.  Like  the  plantain  and  the  celebrated 
])each-palm  of  the  Rio  Negro,  it  is  either  eaten  raw, 
when  fully  ripe,  or  roasted — in  the  latter  case  tasting 
vi-ry  much  like  chestnuts.  Soaked  in  water  and  al- 
lowed to  lerment,  it  forms  a  pleasant  drink  somewhat 
resembling  pulque.  The  ripe  fruit  al^o  yields  by  boil- 
ing in  water,  an  oil  which  is  readily  converted  into 
soap  by  means  of  the  ashes  of  a  Clusia,  {quiripiti.) 
'•  The  spathe,  too — a  fibrous  bag  which  envelops  the 
fruit  before  maturity — is  much  valued  by  the  Indian, 
furnishing  him  with  an  excellent  and  durable  cloth. 
Taken  off  entire,  it  forms  bags  in  which  he  keeps  the 
red  paint  for  his  toilet,  or  the  silk  cotton  for  his  ar- 


468  TKAVEI^  AND   ADVENTURES. 

rows,  or  he  even  stretches  out  the  larprer  ones  to  make 
himself  a  cap,  cunninj^ly  woven  by  nature  without  a 
seam  or  joining.  AVhcn  cut  open  longitudinally  and 
}>ressed  tlat,  it  is  used  to  preserve  his  delicate  feather 
ornaments  and  gala  dresses,  which  are  kejit  in  a  chest 
of  plaited  j>alm-lcave8  betwc«'n  layers  of  smooth  bussu 
cloth."  *  The  trunk  of  the  male  tree  contains  a  fari- 
naceous meal,  i/uruvia,  resembling  sago,  and  like  the 
fecula  of  the  taj)ioca-rout,  it  is  readily  converted  into 
bread  by  sin)j)ly  drying  it  on  hot  earthen  plates. 
Allowed  to  rot  in  the  stem,  this  meal  gives  birth  to 
numerous  fat  worms,  highly  esteemed  by  Indian  gour- 
mands. Tapped  near  the  base  of  the  leaves,  the  tnmk 
yields  also  an  abundance  of  a  sweet  liquor,  which, 
when  fermented,  fonns  one  of  the  various  kinds  of 
palm-wines,  i^nvh  are  in  substance  some  of  the  most 
useful  products  of  this  veritable  tree  of  life,  with  which 
the  existence  of  a  rude  pe(t})le  is  as  intimately  con- 
nected, as  that  of  civilized  man  is  with  the  luxuries 
and  comforts  that  surround  his  home.  "  When  the 
Tamanacks/'  says  Humboldt,  ''  arc  asked  how  the 
human  race  survived  the  great  deluge,  the  *  age  of 
water '  of  the  Mexicans,  they  say  :  '  a  man  and  a 
woman  saved  themselves  on  a  high  mountain,  called 
Tamanacu,  situated  on  the  banks  <»f  the  Asiberu,  and 
casting  the  fruit  of  the  moriche-palm,  they  saw  the 
seeds  contained  in  these  fniits  ])roduce  men  and 
women  who  repeopled  the  earth.'  Thus  we  find  in 
all  its  simplicity,  among  nations  now  in  a  savage 
state,  a  tradition  which  the  Greeks  embellished  with 
all  the  charms  of  imagination." 

•   Wallace,  Vitlms  of  Uic  Amuzon  and  Rio  Negro. 


CA  LA  BOZO.  469 

To  protect  themselves  from  tlic  attacks  of  mosqui- 
toes and  wild  Leasts,  tlie  tribes  roaming  over  the 
great  delta  of  the  Orinoco,  are  in  the  habit  of  raising 
between  the  hnge  trunks  of  the  palm-trees  hanging 
I>latforms  skilfully  interwoven  with  the  foliage,  which 
allow  them  to  live  in  the  trees  like  monkeys.  Tlie 
tloor  of  these  aerial  habitations  is  covered  with  a  coat- 
ing of  mud,  on  which  the  tires  for  household  puqioses 
are  made.  Thus  when  the  first  exi)lorers  of  the  Orino- 
co River  penetrated  for  the  first  time  into  that  exu- 
berant terra  incognita^  they  were  surprised  to  observe, 
among  the  tops  of  the  palm-trees,  Hames  issuing  at 
night  as  if  suspended  in  the  air.  '•  The  Guaranis  still 
owe  the  preservation  of  their  physical,  and  perhaps 
tluir  moral  independence,  to  the  half-submerged, 
marshy  soil  over  which  they  roam  with  a  light  and 
rapid  step,  and  to  their  elevated  dwellings  in  the 
trees,  a  habitation  never  likely  to  be  chosen  from 
motives  of  religious  enthusiasm  by  an  American  Sty- 
lites."* 

I  also  met  for  the  first  time  at  Calabozo  with  the 
most  splendid  rose-bush,  or  rather  tree,  I  had  ever 
seen,  and  which  appears  to  be  indigenous  to  that  hot 
region,  as  I  am  told  that  the  same  grows  in  great 
luxuriance  at  San  Fernando  and  Ciudad  Bolivar,  but 
was  unknown  to  the  rest  of  the  country  previous  to 
our  visit  to  the  Llanos.  Being  passionately  fond  of 
flowers  myself,  I  did  not  neglect  to  bring  along  with 
me  this  beautiful  new  variety  to  our  honie  in  the 
^'alleys  of  Aragua,  where  it  soon  displayed  its  count- 

•  Tlie  followei-s  of  a  sect  fuunded  in  Syria  liy  the  Iknulical  pillar- 
suiut,  Simeon  Sioanites. — Ui'mboldt. 


470  TRAVKLS  AM)   ADVKNTL  Ut:s. 

less  blossoms  to  tlu»  ndmirinp:  frrtz<'  <»f  the  pnpscrs  liy. 
From  tlieiife  it  was  also  cairicd  by  me  to  Caracas, 
whore  it  s*>oii  bfcame  the  p'lit'nil  favorite  of  the  fair 
tlames  of  the  Cajiital,  who  by  unanimous  aceonl 
named  it,  not  as  mi<rht  be  snj)j)osed  after  the  iutro- 
(hiccr,  but  after  his  father,  with  whieli  the  former  was 
etjually  well  satisfied ;  and  certainly  no  more  beauti- 
ful compliment  could  have  been  j)aid  their  favorite 
(•hamj>ion,  than  by  associating  his  mime  witi»  tiie 
a<kno\vledi;ed  (^)uecn  of  Beauty  among  llowers.  The 
size  attained  by  this  plant  surpasses  any  thing  of  the 
kind  with  which  I  am  acquainted.  When  favore<i  by 
a  dry  and  hot  climate  like  that  of  Calabozo,  its  hhcMjls 
attain  a  height  of  fifteen  to  twenty  feet  with  a  cor- 
resj)onding  thiekiu'ss  ;  so  that  a  hammock  with  its 
usual  loa«i  can  be  supiK)rted  between  two  trees  ;  and 
as  these  ])Ut  out  a  great  nund)er  of  branches,  each  of 
them  loaded  with  flowers  or  buds  ready  to  expand, 
they  present  a  sight  truly  splendid.  A  hundred  blos- 
soms may  be  jducked  each  morning  of  the  year  with- 
out marring  its  luxuriant  beauty.  I  have  myself 
counted  over  one  thousand  buds  on  a  single  plant. 
These  flowers  are  of  a  dilieatc  jtink  color,  with  very 
regiilar  j>etals  of  a  deciduous  nature ;  so  that  in  de- 
taching themselves  from  the  calix,  they  cover  the 
ground  upon  wliidi  the  j.arcnt  grows,  with  a  rosy 
carpet. 

"  Sin  florcs  y  sin  hcrmosas 

Que  fiicra  «le  los  iiuirtalcs  ? 
Bicn  hnWU  nacido,  rosas, 

Subrc  cl  lodo  dc  los  uiulcs." 

— AnoLAs. 


471 


TRANSLATION', 


"  "Without  beauty,  without  flowers, 
"What  would  be  this  world  of  ours? 
"Well,  that  oV'ii  in  misery  dire 
Find  we  roses  'mid  the  mire." 

The  truth  of  tlie  ahovo  sontimeiit  Ave  soon  realized  ; 
IVoiii  this  time  a  succession  of  unstortiuies,  conmienciiig 
with  a  violent  attack  of  fever  which  nearly  carried  us 
all  to  the  grave,  and  ending  with  the  destruction  of 
our  property  and  peaceful  homes,  followed  one  another 
without  intermission. 

The  fever  was  doubtless  induced  by  our  previous 
exposure  on  the  journey  and  subsequent  dissipations 
at  Calabozo,  although  the  city  itself  is  one  of  the 
healthiest  spots  in  the  republic.  Unfortuiuiteiy,  our 
])hysician,  who  was  blessed  with  a  very  jealous  wife, 
had  been  summoned  home  by  his  better  half  on  hear- 
ing of  our  approach  to  the  fairy  metropolis  of  the 
Llanos.  However,  there  were  two  or  three  medical 
gentlemen  in  the  place,  and  these,  with  the  unremit- 
ting kindness  and  assistance  of  the  ladies,  managed 
to  keep  us  alive  until  a  skilful  physician,  who  had 
been  sent  for,  arrived  from  the  Valleys  of  Aragua. 
The  critical  condition  of  our  respected  Leader  and  sire 
particularly  gave  them  serious  fears,  as  the  fever  in 
his  case  had  connnenced  to  assume  a  malignant  char- 
acter. Courier  after  courier  was  despatched  across 
the  miry  plains  to  hasten  the  arrival  of  the  doctor, 
while  the  generous  inhabitants  vied  with  each  other 
in  the  anxious  cares  with  which  they  surrounded  the 
sick-bed  of  their  beloved  guest.  Years  have  rolled 
on,  and  many  changes  have  since  taken  place,  both 


472  TRAVELS  AXD   ADVESTTRES. 

in  the  affairs  of  the  nation  and  in  the  fortnnes  of  the 
subjtt  t  of  these  remark* ;  vet,  their  love  for  the 
**  Martyr  of  San  Antonio,"  *  far  from  diminijUiing, 
seems  to  have  imrvaj^ed  during  hU  j^rotractcd  exile ; 
for,  as  late  as  1S61,  after  the  overthrow  of  Monagaa, 
a  petition  addressed  to  Pres.  Tovar  asking  his  rec-ill, 
and  feigned  by  all  the  inhabitants  of  Calabozo,  has 
come  to  hand,  protesting  in  the  strongest  terms  against 
the  impolicy  and  injustice  of  leaving  him  still  in  exile 
when  the  nation  most  needs  his  counsel  and  influence. 
Justly  deprecating  the  horrors  of  civil  war  and  the 
want  of  unity  which  have  existed  in  the  republic  since 
the  downfall  of  the  Monagas  party,  the  petitioners 
conclude  with  this  feeling  outburst  of  j»atriolic  solici- 
tude for  the  absence  of  their  favorite  champion : 
**  From  the  far-off  thores  of  the  Arauca,  to  the  sources 
of  our  own  Guarico,  our  anxioiis  liorsemen  watch  in- 
cessantly the  far  horizon,  inquire  from  the  passing 
breezes  of  the  destinies  of  the  Hero,  who  has  con- 
demned himself  to  voluntary  exile,  and  then  exclaim 
with  a  sigh  :  '  Were  he  again  to  lead  us  on  to  battle. 
Victory  would  be  forthcoming,  strengthened  by  Piar«>, 
and  blessed  by  the  vanquished/  *' 

•  San  Anionio,  an  oW  castle  in  Cvmuxk.  irhert  Generml  Picx  wm 
kept  in  doraaor  for  nine  booUh  bj  the  late  ruler  U  Veoenek,  General 
JoaeT. 


CONCLUSION.  473 


CONCLUSION. 


Here,  courteous  reader,  end  our  rough  journeys 
across  the  Llanos,  and  our  real  troubles  commence  ; 
for  having  been  involved — contrary  to  my  own  incli- 
nation, it  must  be  owned — in  the  j)olitical  strifes  so 
prevalent  in  Spani.sh  America,  I  have  been  compelled 
to  wander  ever  since,  fnnn  land  to  land,  like  the  mys- 
terious Jew  of  the  French  novelist,  Eugene  Sue, 
with  neither  settled  home  nor  abiding  })lace  of  rest. 
What  I  saw  and  learned  worth  relating  during  my 
peregrinations,  hither  and  thither,  will  make  the  sub- 
ject of  the  Second  Series  of  these  sketches,  which,  if 
your  patience  is  not  exhausted  or  my  repertoire  does 
not  give  out,  I  trust  to  lay  before  you  at  no  distant 
day.  In  the  meantime  you  must  excu.se  any  imper- 
fections in  the  style  and  composition  of  this  book 
con.sidcring  that  I  write  in  a  language  which  is  not 
my  own,  and  which  often  perplexes  even  those  who 
have  more  claims  to  it  than  myself,  so  many  are  its 
grammatical  iiTegularities. 


( 


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